HISTORY OF PALAU
Palau is a country in the western Pacific Ocean. It consists of some 340 coral and volcanic islands perched on the Kyushu-Palau Ridge. The Palau (also spelled Belau) archipelago lies in the southwest corner of Micronesia, with Guam 830 miles to the northeast, New Guinea 400 miles to the south, and the Philippines 550 miles to the west. A huge barrier reef system, continuous on the west and broken on the east, encircles most of the archipelago. Its major populated islands are Babeldaob, Koror, Malakal, Arakabesan, and Peleliu. The sparsely populated Kayangel Islands to the north of Babeldaob and the raised coral islands of Angaur, Sonsorol, Pulo Anna, and Tobi south of Peleliu lie outside the barrier reef system.
Koror island, rising to 2,061 feet just south of Babeldaob, is home to Koror city, the largest population center and former capital. Melekeok, on Babeldaob, became the capital in October 2006.
The islands were inhabited from 3,000 to 2,000 years ago by successive waves of Malays from Indonesia, Melanesians from New Guinea, Philippine natives, and some Polynesians from outlying Polynesian islands in Micronesia. This resulted in a diverse population, which since the late 18th century has also included Europeans, Japanese, and Americans. Palauan, Sonsorolese-Tobian, and English are the official languages of Palau.The indigenous Palauan religion of powerful ancestral and nature spirits was supplanted by Christianity, brought by missionaries. Slightly more than half the population is Roman Catholic; just over one-fourth is Protestant. There are smaller numbers of Seventh-day Adventists, Jehovah’s Witnesses, Mormons, and members of other faiths.
Large hillside terraces, numerous stone ruins, and megaliths on Babeldaob give evidence of a vital culture before contact with European explorers. The first extensive contact of Palauans with Westerners took place after the shipwreck of the East India Company’s packet Antelope in 1783. George Keate’s An Account of the Pelew Islands (1788), which recounted the friendship and high adventure found in Palau, served to fuel the European myths of the noble savage and the island paradise. The first 70 years of the 19th century were punctuated by the occasional visits of whalers and traders, who left beachcombers and firearms behind. Diseases communicated by contact with Europeans led to the deaths of many islanders, and firearms were prized for inter-village warfare, which was ended in 1883 through the peaceful intervention of Capt. Cyprian Bridge of HMS Espiegle.
Spanish and German colonial influence was expressed through Roman Catholic missionaries. The Japanese navy expelled the Germans at the beginning of World War I, and, although the Japanese period is locally remembered as one of economic development and order, the Palauans were a marginal minority by 1936. Japan lost Palau in World War II in a struggle that was socially destabilizing to the Palauans. The Battle of Peleliu in 1944 was one of the most savage and costly battles in World War II.
After a short period of administration by the U.S. Navy, Palau became part of the United Nations Trust Territory of the Pacific Islands under U.S. administration in 1947. A constitution was adopted in 1981 and elections were held in the same year. The country became internally self-governing in 1981. Palau signed a Compact of Free Association with the United States in 1982, but the required number of voters failed to pass the referendum until 1993. The compact required that the United States remain responsible for external security and defense and that it provide financial assistance for Palau, but conflict arose over Palau’s constitutional prohibition on the operation of U.S. nuclear-powered or nuclear-armed vessels and aircraft within the jurisdiction of Palau. According to the terms of the compact, the United States reserved this right as well as the right to neither confirm nor deny the presence or absence of such weapons in Palau. Several attempts were made to revise the constitution, revise the compact agreement, and secure Palauan approval, and the United States dissolved the trusteeship in 1986. In 1992 voters approved an amendment that reduced from three-fourths to a simple majority the popular vote required to override the antinuclear provision of the constitution. This cleared the way for approval of the compact in 1993, and under its terms Palau became independent in 1994, officially becoming a sovereign state on October 1. Palau joined the United Nations the following December.
The Palau Judiciary consists of the Supreme Court, the Court of Common Pleas, and the Land Court. At the local level, each of the 16 traditional settlement areas constitute a state with an elected governor and legislature Palau has no armed forces; the United States is responsible for protecting the country. No guns are allowed in the country.
Palauan society follows a very strict matrilineal system. Matrileneal practices are seen in nearly every aspect of Palauan traditions, especially in inheritance, marriage, funeral and the passing of traditional titles. Women are the strength of society and control land, money, and titles. Men, previously occupied as fishermen and warriors, continue their traditional tasks in the rural areas and, as an adaptation to modern society, compete for elected office and in business.
Traditional art forms persist in chants and wood carved storyboards, which are now made for sale to tourists rather than for decoration of men’s clubhouses. The Belau National Museum (1955) and the Etpison Museum in Koror house artifacts that illustrate the history and culture of Palau and Micronesia.
Palau’s marine environment exhibits a rich fauna balanced by an abundant terrestrial flora. This richness derives from Palau’s close proximity to Indonesia, New Guinea, and the Philippines. Palau has more species of marine life than any other area of similar size in the world; corals, fish, snails, clams, sea cucumbers, starfish, sea urchins, sea anemones, jellyfish, squid, and feather-duster worms exist in profusion and variety. Such marine life has made Palau one of the world’s premier scuba-diving locations. In a large inland lake where thousands of jellyfish have lost their sting, Jellyfish Lake serves as a unique and popular attraction for visitors to swim and snorkel with the jellyfish. Palau also created the world’s first shark sanctuary. Common flora are the beach morning glory, Polynesian ironwood tree, pandanus, and various species of palm and fern. The birds of Palau are abundant and colorful, and many migrate to or through Palau twice annually.
Hisakatsu Hijikata, Japansese artist who taught wood carving and initiated the idea of Storyboards.
Palau Freedom Memorial
Turtle logo designed by Palauan artist Scott Weers