GERMANY

Red:

Kreuzberg, Ahr (Germany) Spätburgunder “Unplugged” 2013 ($24, Raya Imports): A rustic wine, this Pinot Noir (Spätburgunder in German) tastes of dried herbs, tobacco and savory spice as much if not more than fruit.  It will show best when served with food (roast chicken comes to mind) rather than as an aperitif, and it has the structure and stuffing to age for five or so more years.
90 Paul Lukacs Aug 1, 2017

Enderle & Moll, Baden (Germany) Pinot Noir 2021 ($30, Vom Boden):  Hailing from Baden, Germany's great Pinot Noir region, this is only reminiscent of Burgundy in its elegance as the soil in Baden is mostly sandstone rather than limestone.  However, this 2021 Pinot Noir is far better than most Burgundy at this price and illustrates why German Spätburgunder (the German name for Pinot Noir) is the Pinot Noir we should all be drinking.   An aromatic, enticing nose of sour red cherry, plum and baking spice follows through to the silky, bright palate.  Exuberant fruit and a touch of minerality show good concentration while remaining ethereal and delicate.       
91 Miranda Franco Jan 23, 2024

Bernhard Huber, Baden (Germany) Spatburgunder “Alte Reben” 2007 ($80, Valckenberg):  Consumers rarely think to turn to Germany for Pinot Noir (Spatburgunder), which makes this one all the more surprising.  The color’s a bit light, but the flavors of dried cherries and savory notes are not, a result, no doubt, of the old vines (alte reben).  Despite its depth and ripeness, those looking for intense juicy California style Pinot Noir will be disappointing.  But those who love Pinot Noir for its delicacy and intrigue should try this one. 90 Michael Apstein Oct 19, 2010

Weingut Rudolf Fürst, Bürgstadter (Franken, Germany) Spätburgunder Centgrafenberg GG 2014 ($90, Rudi Wiest): Pinot Noir is known as Spätburgunder in Germany, and the Rudolf Fürst estate in Franken ranks among that country’s top producers. GG is an abbreviation for Grosses Gewächs -- a designation for the top vineyard sites in Germany -- and the Centgrafenberg vineyard in Bürgstadt yields wines of great complexity and interest.  The 2014 Centgrafenberg GG from Fürst has a stunning bouquet that shows beautifully pure raspberry and cherry fruits interwoven with floral hints and elements of herbs, tea and smoke.  On the palate, the pure fruit flavors of ripe cherry and raspberry are underlain by a range of floral, herbal, smoke and spice nuances.  The wine has the breadth and depth of a fine red Burgundy.  It is a stellar example of the quality and character of the best German Pinot Noirs.
92 Wayne Belding Aug 15, 2017

Valckenberg, Rheinhessen (Germany) Pinot Noir "Undone" 2012 ($11): This extraordinarily bargain-priced Pinot Noir comes from a most unusual place -- Germany, a land far better known for Riesling than Pinot Noir.  And it’s not just its price that grabs your attention.  Befitting a cool climate Pinot Noir, it combines both savory and fruity elements in this bright, light-bodied wine.  Those expecting a ripe New World Pinot Noir will be disappointed, while those seeking a more delicate, yet still flavorful, Pinot Noir will be pleased.  Almost imperceptible tannins mean it would be an excellent candidate for chilling and drinking when you have the urge to reach for a rosé.
87 Michael Apstein Aug 20, 2013

Weingut Grafen Neipperg, Wurttemberg (Germany) Lemberger Trocken 2012 ($25, Valckenberg International): Germany’s red wines are becoming more and more compelling.  Here is a dry red made from the Lemberger grape (known as Blaufrankish in Austria), from the wine region of Wurttemberg.  This wine is medium-bodied with a spicy, energetic style and yet some softness of texture.  Aromas and flavors suggest tart red- and ripe black- berry fruit similar to Pinot Noir, but with an extra hit of spiciness and a bit of earthiness.  The wine has delicate tannins that contribute edginess, as does the crisp acidity. Altogether, the wine is trim and tensile with seductive berry flavor, and lots of it. It will probably pair with a wide range of foods, but I can personally attest that it’s great with an aged Gruyere cheese.
89 Mary Ewing-Mulligan Dec 2, 2014

Weingut Beurer, Württemberg (Germany) Trollinger Trocken 2022 ($25, Vom Boden):  If you know this grape, you may know it by its other name Schiava and associate it with northern Italy (where formerly Austrian speakers of German call it “Vernatsch”).  This expression hails from Württemberg, Germany, where a handful of regional pioneers create Trollinger with stunning results.   The 2022 Beurer Trollinger is a beautiful, lively red wine with an incredible profile thanks to its bright acidity, which supports linear notes of red currant, tart cherry, pomegranate, citrus zest, and herbs.  It is brisk and bright with feathery tannins and an elongated granite finish.  For those new to Trollinger, this drinks like a superb Gamay, and with a delightful 11% alcohol by volume, this is the perfect wine to serve with a slight chill.         
91 Miranda Franco Aug 1, 2023

Grafen Neipperg, Württemberg (Germany) Lemberger 2011 ($20, Valkenberg): If you know a wine snob gasbag who needs to be taken down a peg, this wine will do the trick if served blind to him.  That’s not its only usefulness by a long shot, however, as it is much more than a mere curiosity.  Medium bodied, with expressive red berry fruit, fresh acidity, and a pleasant earthiness, this would prove an idea summertime foil for grilled pork or duck.
89 Michael Franz Jul 9, 2013

Weingut Graf Neipperg, Württemberg (Germany) Lemberger 2010 ($24, Valckengerg International):  The Lemberger grape is known as Blaufrankish in Austria, and it has earned accolades for the wines that it makes there.  This version is from the Württemberg region of German.  While it is lighter and leaner than most Austrian wines from this grape, it is a very true rendition of the variety, and a very good wine.  It’s dry and medium bodied with high acidity and only a minimal amount of tannin; its aromas and flavors suggest tart red berries and spices, with a slight note of lemon zest.  This wine offers all the refreshment of a crisp white in its bracing energy and edginess, but its flavors are those of a red.  Enjoy it with light-flavored dishes that can use a lift, such as chicken salad, grilled vegetables or risotto. 89 Mary Ewing-Mulligan Oct 11, 2011

Weingut Graf Neipperg, Württemberg Qualitatswein (Germany) Lemberger Trocken 2011 ($24, Valckenberg Intl. Inc.): You could confuse this Lemberger — aka Blaufrankish — for a Pinot Noir because of its sour cherry and black cherry fruit, but it has more tannin, spice and substance than Pinot Noir, and is leaner in structure.  Its body is just on the full side of medium, and its acidity is high, making this a refreshing wine despite its inherent gravitas.  A well-made red in the lean, spicy style; try it with turkey sausage, pork chops, vegetable lasagna or grilled portabella mushrooms.
90 Mary Ewing-Mulligan Jul 30, 2013

Sparkling:

Loosen Bros., Germany () Sparkling Riesling "Dr. L." NV ($16, Loosen Bros. USA): It’s refreshing, festive, fun and affordable -- but that does not mean this fizz isn’t wonderfully tasty.  Some sparkling Riesling (“Sekt” in German) is a sweet and flabby bore, but Dr. L.’s conveys all the natural crispness fused with hints of fruity sweetness that one expects from any decent Riesling wine.  It makes a wonderful aperitif (a great option to offer at a cocktail party), or serve it as a refreshing accompaniment to curries, Mexican dishes, or other complexly spiced dishes.
90 Marguerite Thomas Sep 2, 2014

Odd Bird, Germany () Blanc de Blancs, "Liberated from Alcohol" NV ($15):  Oddly interesting stuff, and it’s hitting the marketplace at an opportune time thanks to the trend toward low- or no-alcohol tipples.  Odd Bird's Blanc de Blancs is a sparkling blend of Colombard and Chardonnay made in off dry style and though it’s  been de-alcoholized, it acquits itself well, the creamy mousse carrying focused floral pear and apple fruit, bright acidity and a little sweetness.  Though the label says Product of Germany, the fruit comes from France’s Languedoc region.  Whatever the provenance, it’s a satisfying glass of fizz that the business lunch crowd should appreciate.   
90 Rich Cook Oct 17, 2023

White:

Weingut Burg Ravensburg, Baden (Germany) Riesling Trocken 2022 ($20, Veritable Wines & Estates):  This wine seems to almost erupt from the glass with a plush bouquet of floral notes, trailed by a ripe and complex, fruity medley of pear, mango, and apricot notes.  Rich and textured, it skews toward the riper side of Riesling, though it still finishes dry, with sufficient acidity for balance.  This is a wine that surely over-delivers for its price. 93 John McDermott Oct 3, 2023

Hans Wirsching, Franken (Germany) Silvaner Trocken Iphöfer Kalb 2020 ($35, The German Wine Collection):  The Hans Wirsching estate ranks among the best Franken producers.  This wine is from the steep Kalb vineyard, a VDP Erste Lage site at the village of Iphöfen, and one that shows the delicious style that Franken Silvaner can achieve.  The nose reflects hints of apple, pear, lemon and melon fruits along with subtleties of sage, almond and a hint of button mushroom.  The flavors are pure, vibrant and clean, with the fresh apple and pear fruit backed by earthy and herbal nuances.  Its rich texture and minerally-clean, dry finish make it a superbly refreshing and versatile wine.  If you love dry Riesling, Wirsching’s Silvaner will likely thrill your palate as well.       
92 Wayne Belding Mar 14, 2023

Weingut Juliusspital, Franken (Germany) Silvaner Trocken VDP Erste Lage 2021 ($18, Wunderwein):  The 2021 Silvaner, with the iconic bottle shape of the Franconia wine region of Germany, is dry, vivid, and mouth-filling, with a youthful nose that plays off the sweet spices, apple, citrus rind, and roasted pear.  Silvaner used to be the most widely grown grape in all of Germany at the beginning of the 20th Century, but has mostly faded into obscurity except in Franconia.  You will notice notes of honeydew melon, white peach, and lemon cucumber on the palate.  The wine is a great pleasure to drink as everything is perfectly interwoven and full of fruit and finesse.     
91 Miranda Franco Jul 18, 2023

Castell-Castell, Franken Qualitatswein (Germany) Silvaner 2012 ($18, Valckenberg Intl. Inc.): This wine is living proof of why it pays to diverge from the beaten path of popular grape varieties and familiar wine regions.  The grape is Silvaner (known as Sylvaner outside Germany), and the region is the tiny, northerly Franken region of Germany.  The producer is a Silvaner specialist whose wine is consistently impressive.  In this vintage, you’ll discover a relatively ripe, full-bodied wine with vibrant aromas and flavors suggesting citrus and honey.  It has good concentration of fruit and substantial texture cut through with crisp acidic depth, and a fruity finish that suggests lime.  This wine can be a flexible all-around white on the table.  It’s definitely worth a try.
89 Mary Ewing-Mulligan Jan 14, 2014

Suben, Landwein Rhein (Germany) Riesling 2020 ($18, Hemispheres):  This off dry German Riesling pops with freshening acidity, lively citrus and a solid stony mineral core that’s ready for poolside sipping or lighter fare.  Give it a go with potato soup if you’re adventurous.  A Platinum Award winner at the 2021 Sommelier Challenge International Wine & Spirits Competition.    
92 Rich Cook Oct 12, 2021

Matthias Müller, Mittelrhein (Germany) Riesling Bopparder Hamm Alte Reben Feinherb 2012 ($33, Traubenhaus Fine Wines): The glory of Riesling is clearly evidenced in this bottle.  From the steep vineyards of the Mittelrhein, it reveals a depth and purity of flavor that is truly admirable.  Luscious aromas of lemon, green apple, pineapple and guava fruits are bolstered by elements of flower and spices.  On the palate, it is equally pure and invigorating with the vibrant panoply of fruits playing out across the palate in a delicious cascade of juicy ripeness.  The exotic fruit nuances linger nicely in the long, dry finish.
92 Wayne Belding Aug 26, 2014

Maximin Grünhäuser, Mosel (Germany) Riesling Spätlese 2011 ($40, Loosen Bros. USA): Trembling with deliciousness, this Riesling is so complex that one keeps sipping and sipping it without ever cracking the true mystery of what makes the wine so superb.  Is it the perfectly balanced acidity?  Well, yes.  Is it the succinct proportion of peachy fruit flavors?  Yep, that too.  The palpable minerality, the gentle tug of acidity, the gorgeous length on the palate?  Yes, yes and yes -- it’s all of the above and infinitely more.  Supremely classy, yet readily accessible even to new wine drinkers, this is a wine that is both brooding and joyful, pleasurable on its own or with food, enjoyable in warm weather as well as cold.
93 Marguerite Thomas Feb 4, 2014

Urban, Mosel (Germany) Riesling “Nik Weiss Selection” 2008 ($13, HB Wine Merchants): The entry level Riesling from St.-Urbans-Hof, this is a (slightly) off dry wine, with low alcohol (10%), and wonderful length on the palate.  Though not as complex or terroir-driven as some of the estate’s more site-specific wines, it nonetheless exhibits the region’s characteristic mix of raciness and delicacy, with a hint of slate or stone in the finish.  Especially given the low price tag, it offers a delicious introduction to one of the world’s finest white wines – Mosel Valley Riesling. 89 Paul Lukacs Jul 28, 2009

Bastgen, Mosel-Saar-Ruwer (Kestener Paulinshofberg) Riesling Spätlese 2005 ($23, Kysela): This winning wine features delicious fruit recalling white peaches and nectarines, and though the fruit is very expressive, it is very effectively crosscut with intense, compelling mineral notes. Moderately sweet but still light and lacey at just 8.5% alcohol, this actually tastes more like a Kabinett than this producer's Kabinett from the famous Brauneberger Juffer-Sonnenuhr vineyard. Nevertheless, it is thoroughly satisfying at the Spätlese level, with beautiful balancing acidity that is perfectly integrated with the fruit and sweetness. 90 Michael Franz Jul 24, 2006

Bastgen, Mosel-Saar-Ruwer (Brauneberger Juffer-Sonnenuhr) Riesling Spätlese 2005 ($22, Kysela): This is a rich, soft, deeply flavored and wine from a great site, though it should be said that-remarkably enough-this producer's Spätlese from the much less renowned site of Kestener Paulinshofberg is just as good, all things considered. The Kestener offers more dramatic interplay between fruit, acidity and mineral notes, whereas the Brauneberger is less nuanced at this point but more deeply satisfying, with wonderful integration and length. The fruit offers different shades recalling tangerines, papayas, and baked apples, and thanks to the screw cap closure, you are sure to taste all of those rather than a piece of wet bark. (Sorry about that if you are a cork devotee.) 90 Michael Franz Jul 24, 2006

Willi Schaefer, Mosel-Saar-Ruwer (Germany) Riesling Kabinett Graacher Himmelreich 2005 ($23, Terry Theise/Skurnik): Willi Scheffer is one of Germany's most consistently outstanding vintners, crafting lovely Rieslings year after year that always seem to strike an optimal balance between structured seriousness and open expressiveness.  This bottling offers fresh fruit recalling mandarin oranges and ripe apples, with fine minerality and a fresh edge of acidity that is very well integrated with the fruit. 90 Michael Franz May 22, 2007

Bastgen, Mosel-Saar-Ruwer (Germany) Riesling Auslese Kestener Paulinshofberg 2005 ($32, Kysela): A delicious, seriously sweet but nevertheless balanced Riesling, this delicious wine offers deep, juicy flavors of papaya and baked apple. Palpable notes of slatey minerals and a zesty shot of citric acidity prove quite capable of keeping the rich flavors from sliding out of balance, and thus you'll find this very pleasant for sipping before or after a meal or paired with simple, fruit-based desserts. 89 Michael Franz Aug 1, 2006

Bastgen, Mosel-Saar-Ruwer (Germany) Riesling "Blauschiefer" 2005 ($17, Kysela): This delicious Riesling is only very lightly sweet, enabling it to work with a wide range of foods while also serving as an excellent aperitif. Light in body but very expressive in both aromatic and flavor terms, it features notes of green apple and grapefruit with very energetic but ripe acidity and interesting mineral accents. 88 Michael Franz Aug 1, 2006

S.A. Prum, Mosel-Saar-Ruwer (Germany) Riesling “Essence” 2005 ($10, Palm Bay): German wines suffer from all sorts of well-known problems (nomenclature, consumer preconceptions, bottle shape, and so forth) that have nothing to do with the wines themselves.  When they are well made and affordable, as this one is, it is almost impossible to fine anyone who doesn't like them when actually giving them a try.  With lovely apple-tinged fruit, a nice mineral edge, and fine balancing acidity, this is refreshing and immensely satisfying at once. 88 Michael Franz Feb 13, 2007

Bastgen, Mosel-Saar-Ruwer (Brauneberger Juffer-Sonnenuhr) Riesling Kabinett 2005 ($19, Kysela): This tasty wine seems like a declassified Spätlese, as it has considerable residual sweetness but still a posted 10.5% alcohol. In any case, this is an ample Kabinett, with lots of juicy peach and mandarin orange fruit and enough mineral extract and acidity to carry it off. There's a (welcome) bit of bitterness in the aftertaste that also helps keep this symmetrical, and the wine really works well despite pushing its luck a little on the sweetness front. 87 Michael Franz Jul 24, 2006

S. A. Prüm, Mosel-Saar-Ruwer (Germany) Riesling “Essence” 2005 ($12, Palm Bay): Remarkably affordable and undeniably delicious, this is the sort of wine that Germany needs to re-endear itself to the palates of casual consumers around the world.  Floral aromas are intertwined with scents of nectarines and baked apples, and these same notes reappear on the palate with a refreshing splash of lime and a lovely little mineral note that adds complexity to the finish.  Lightly sweet but still fresh and quite refreshing, this is a great sipping wine and a promising partner for spicy Asian dishes. 85 Michael Franz Apr 17, 2007

Fitz-Ritter, Pfalz (Germany) Riesling QbA 2005 ($16, Winesellers, Ltd.): Amply endowed with richness and depth of flavor, this delicious wine retains balance and freshness on account of ripe acidity and a light spritziness that enlivens the finish.  A great stand-alone sipper, this would also work nicely with moderately robust dishes with a bit of hot spice. 89 Michael Franz Jun 19, 2007

Saint M, Pfalz (Germany) Riesling 2005 ($12, Chateau Ste. Michelle): This off-dry Riesling from Germany's famed Ernst Loosen reflects the ideal conditions of the 2005 harvest. It delivers pure, juicy, mouth-filling fruit aromas, refreshing acidity and a touch of minerality on the finish -- the complete package. A perfect complement to spicy cuisine or barbecued fish dishes. 87 Robert Whitley Aug 8, 2006

PJ Valckenberg, Rheinhessen (Germany) Pinot Blanc 2012 ($13): Valckenberg, one of Germany’s best wine merchants, also has a winery and is a producer.  This Pinot Blanc, a.k.a. Weisser Burgunder, is a bright and fresh rendition of that varietal.  Dry, clean and focused, it has good weight and an appealing slightly bitter finish.  It’s great for summertime sipping or matching with a bowl of steamed clams.
89 Michael Apstein Jul 23, 2013

Roterfaden & Rosswag, Württemberg (Germany) "Terraces" 2021 ($18, Von Boden):  Württemberg is known for producing high-quality red wines, but this local co-op produces a stunning summer white.  A blend of 40% Riesling, 20% Kerner and 40% Weissburgunder (also known as Pinot  Blanc), this wine is driven by acidity while still maintaining a solid fruit foundation.  Minerality provides complexity and supports both the acidity and fresh fruit.  The village of Rosswag is located in an ancient amphitheater with centuries-old stone terraces for which the wine is named after.  All vineyards are hand-harvested and hand-maintained by necessity and the attention given to them comes through in the wine quality.  This wine is an outstanding summer choice to put some variety in the rotation.  The acidity helps this wine pair with most cheeses and the 12.5% abv is perfect for warmer days.     
91 Vince Simmon Jun 27, 2023

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Mosel:

Sparkling:

Gebrüder Simon, Mosel (Germany) Riesling Brut Sekt 2019 ($35):  My favorite recent find is this beautiful Riesling, sourced from the Urziger Würzgarten and Erdener Treppchen vineyards on the steep slopes of the Mosel.  It shows Riesling’s fresh tropical side in pleasantly dry style, with a fine mousse and an extended finish of apple, papaya and stone minerality.  It might have you wondering why Chardonnay and Pinot Noir took over the world of sparkling wine.          
93 Rich Cook Dec 13, 2022

Loosen Bros., Mosel (Germany) Riesling Sekt, "Dr. L" NV ($16, Loosen Bros. USA):  Here is a nice, off-dry bubbly with bright Riesling characteristics of flowers, lemon and stone fruit.  All these elements are evident from start to finish, and the taut acid profile keeps the sweet character on the fresh side.  I really enjoyed this with a spicy Moroccan couscous dish, with both wine and food elevated a notch.         
90 Rich Cook Dec 13, 2022

Markus Molitor, Mosel (Germany) Riesling "Brut Sekt" NV ($20, Banville Wine Merchants):  Markus Molitor's Brut Sekt is a somewhat restrained Riesling that emphasizes the grape’s dark, green fruitiness, doing so without being too tight.  The result is a refreshing bubbly, well-structured with a little creaminess at the finish and with lots lightly peppery bubbles.         
90 Roger Morris Feb 6, 2024

White:

Dr. Heidemanns Bergweiler, Bernkasteler Badstube (Mosel, Germany) Riesling Spätlese 2014 ($24, Great Lakes (Baum Wine Imports)): This is a super-fresh and enticing Riesling.  Its pure fruit and veritably electric acidity will delight your palate.  Lovely aromas of green apple, pear and lemon are enhanced by hints of ginger and white flowers.  Pure and clean on the palate, it shows a classic Spätlese style with a perfect balance of sweet fruit and mouth-watering acidity.  Its cascade of lemon, green apple and pear fruit flavors is underscored by hints of tangerine and spice.  It’s a great wine to serve on its own or with your favorite Asian takeout dishes.
91 Wayne Belding May 12, 2015

Dr. Heidemanns Bergweiler, Bernkasteler Badstube (Mosel, Germany) Riesling Kabinett 2020 ($20, Saranty Imports):  This is a super-fresh and enticing Riesling.  Badstube is a small grosslage that includes some of Bernkastel’s best vineyards.  The 2020 Dr. Heidemans Bergweiler Kabinett is delicious.  Its pure fruit and veritably electric acidity will delight your palate.  Lovely aromas of green apple, pear and lemon are enhanced by hints of ginger and white flowers.  Pure and clean on the palate, it shows a classic Kabinett style with a perfect balance of juicy fruit and mouth-watering acidity.  Its cascade of lemon, green apple and pear fruit flavors are underscored by hints of tangerine and spice.  It’s a great wine to serve on its own or with your favorite Asian takeout dishes.       
90 Wayne Belding Feb 28, 2023

Reichsgraf von Kesselstatt, Graach (Mosel, Germany) Riesling Kabinett Josephshöfer 2012 ($31, Valckenberg): The Josephshöfer vineyard, owned entirely von Kesselstatt, is so famous that its name stands by itself on a label, similar to the grand cru vineyards in Burgundy, without the need for identifying the town it’s in (Graach, for those who are interested).  Von Kesselstatt, a winery that celebrated its 650th -- you read that correctly -- in 1999, remains one of Germany’s iconic producers.  Combine the two and what’s amazing is not that the wine is superb -- it is -- but it’s price.  Intriguing herbal and mineraly elements are a perfect foil for the yellow peach-like flavors that emerge.  Bracing acidity holds it all together and keeps you coming back for more.  A great wine to serve by itself, especially in the summer, it would be an excellent choice for highly flavored Asian fare.
93 Michael Apstein Aug 20, 2013

Carl Graff, Graacher Himmelreich (Mosel Valley, Germany) Riesling Spätlese 2011 ($17, Valckenberg):  The Himmelreich vineyard is one of the best ones in the village of Graach, in the Middle Mosel.  Graff’s 2011 Spätlese, the epitome of Middle Mosel Riesling, is lacy and delicate, yet persistent.  It delivers a fabulous combination of minerality and lemony citrus notes balanced by zesty acidity.  It’s a great bargain. 92 Michael Apstein Sep 11, 2012

Carl von Schubert / Maximin Grünhäuser, Mosel (Germany) Riesling Auslese Abtsberg #84 2011 ($100, Loosen Bros. USA): I tasted hundreds of wonderful Rieslings during 2013 (including a vast number at Riesling Rendezvous, a remarkable international conference in Seattle at which extraordinary renditions of this peerless white variety were shown) but none of them were better than this one.  Carl von Schubert is unquestionably among Germany’s best vintners, and Abtsberg is certainly among the world’s top sites for growing Riesling, but there’s more:  This release of Auslese “#84” is drawn from a single exceptional barrel, and it is phenomenally complex and delicious.  It was harvested several days later than most of the grapes that went into the “regular” Abtsberg Auslese (which is also remarkable and certainly deserving of every one of the 94 points I accorded to it), with additional botrytis that makes it slightly sweeter but also significantly more intricate in aroma and flavor.  The fruit components recall both stone fruit flavors as well as subtle tropical notes and even a hint of baked apples, so we’re talking about a very complex wine before even addressing the complexities derived from minerals and botrytis.  It is almost scary to reflect on the fact that the wine will become even more complex in coming years, though it is worth noting that nobody who tastes it now is likely to be able to resist opening every bottle they can find in the very near future.  Sure, $100 is a lot of money for a bottle of wine, but that number isn’t all that daunting as a ticket to an epiphany regarding Riesling’s stature as the greatest of all white wine varieties.
98 Michael Franz Feb 11, 2014

Dr. Loosen, Mosel (Germany) Riesling Erdener Prälat Auslese Gold Capsule 2015 ($114, Loosen Bros. USA):  This wine is sourced from an impossibly steep site that is perfectly oriented to soak up sun and produce luxuriously ripe Riesling fruit.  Ernst Loosen makes amazing sweet wine from it almost every year, and though he also makes a dry style Grosses Gewächs Alte Reben rendition from this incredible vineyard, this gets a traditional rendering that extends even to the label.  Although some readers might be put off by the very appearance of the word "sweet," this is actually a miracle of purity, balance and proportionality, with intense minerality and near-electric acidity providing an intense, vivid character to a wine that is actually very rich at its core.  Use of a "Gold Capsule" to indicate that this is a special wine was entirely warranted in 2015, and though it is certainly expensive, it offers more complexity and capacity for development than plenty of red wines costing twice as much.  In brief, a vinous work of art.
98 Michael Franz Jun 27, 2017

Meulenhof, Mosel (Germany) Riesling Spätlese Erdener Treppchen 1990 ($30): I’ve tasted way more than my share of exceptional older wines during the past year, often thanks to the generosity of others.  But this is one that I purchased upon release, and have dragged around with me through multiple relocations, and it has never been treated to refrigerated cellaring.  The cork was very crumbly and the wine showed deep coloring indicative of significant oxidation over time, and yet the aromas and flavors were still phenomenally vibrant.  Scents of pressed flowers and black tea lead to flavors centered on mandarin orange marmalade, and though the wine is still quite sweet, the acidity is still almost electric after all these years.  Indeed, the acidity was actually too much for my wife (to whom I ran with the glass…yelling, “Taste this!”), who loves bright wines.  As for me, the acidity was absolutely perfect in relation to the wine’s luscious sweetness and open fruit.  I’m writing about this not to gloat about an experience that you can’t replicate, but rather to encourage you to buy (and age) German Rieslings at all levels of sweetness -- precisely so that you can indeed replicate this experience.  The current vintage is 2015, and $30 is its price, and you should buy it.
97 Michael Franz Dec 13, 2016

Fritz Haag, Mosel (Germany) Riesling Brauneberg Juffer Sonnenuhr GG Trocken 2017 ($65, Loosen Bros.):  Riesling is undoubtedly one of the world's great wine grapes.  The best renditions like this 2017 Riesling Trocken (German for dry) offer great complexity and notable aging potential.  Some of the very best dry Rieslings are classified as Grosses Gewächs, or “great growths,” GG for short.  This GG Riesling immediately captures your attention with a beautifully complex and saline expression of slate minerality.  It is full of tension with lush texture set off by brisk acidity.  It has a seemingly endless finish.  This 2017 will evolve with ease over the next decade, but there is absolutely no shame in enjoying this exquisite wine now.       
96 Miranda Franco Jan 19, 2021

Schloss Saarstein, Mosel (Mosel Valley, Germany) Riesling, Spätlese 2011 ($38, Valckenberg):  Schloss Saarstein, a vineyard owned exclusively (a monopole) by the producer of the same name, is one of Germany’s finest properties.  Located in the village of Serrig high above the steeply terraced Saar River, Schloss Saarstein consistently produces extraordinary wines.  Their 2011 Spätlese marries slate-like mineral flavors, flowery fruitiness with bracing acidity.  The interplay between the delicate peach-like fruit nuances, the steeliness that characterizes the wines from the Saar and the vibrancy inherent to Riesling grown on this site is truly amazing.  From my experience, Schloss Saarstein’s wines develop beautifully over a decade or more, so there’s no rush.  But, it’s also a fine choice for roast pork or grilled tuna steak tonight. 95 Michael Apstein Sep 11, 2012

Schmitt Söhne, Mosel (Germany) Riesling "Relax" 2018 ($14, Delicato):  Here’s a treat - A classic example of Mosel Riesling that’s smartly imported by Delicato, who clearly did their homework here.  The sweetness is never overpowering as it's beautifully framed by acidity and minerality, both of which lend great push of flavor to the finish.  A terrific value!  A Platinum Award winner at the 2020 Critics Challenge International Wine & Spirits Competition.     
95 Michael Cervin Jul 7, 2020

Weingut Clemens Busch, Mosel (Germany) Riesling Trocken Pündericher Marienburg Grosses Gewächs 2016 ($55, Louis/Dressner):  The map of the Mosel’s finest vineyards is being enhanced by the exciting wines from Weingut Clemens Busch in Pünderich. The Middle-Mosel village of Pünderich is most noted for the Marienburg vineyard, a site with steep, south-facing slopes and deep slate soils.  This is the same combination that the makes the top vineyards of Bernkastel, Wehlen and Piesport such spectacular growing sites.  As more people experience the scintillating wines of Clemens Busch, we are likely to hear more about Pünderich vineyards.  This is a lively, intense, richly-textured and dry Riesling that demonstrates the potential of the Marienburg vineyard.  While still very youthful, it shows a beautiful purity of fruit along with floral and spice nuances.  Fresh scents of ripe apple, pear, lime, and pineapple are enhanced by floral elements, a wet-stone freshness and lively spice.  The flavors are pure and concentrated with the luscious tropical, apple and citrus fruits interwoven with the spice and floral nuances.  Although it is thoroughly enjoyable now for its purity and depth, the Clemens Busch Marienburg Grosses Gewächs can cellar well for another 20 years or more.    
95 Wayne Belding Nov 19, 2019

Bischofliche Weinguter Trier, Mosel (Germany) Riesling "DOM" 2021 ($23):  Yum!  This wine calls itself sweet, and technically it meets the criteria, but a taste will have you thinking it’s not far past off dry thanks to the acid balancing the sugar and making everything pop pleasantly.  Stone fruit, wet stone minerality and zesty citrus are a true pleasure here.  Try it with fresh fruit or mild cheeses – you won’t be sorry either way. 
94 Rich Cook Oct 3, 2023

Dr. Loosen, Mosel (Germany) Dry Riesling Alte Reben Erdener Treppchen GG 2019 ($54, Loosen Bros. USA):  The dry Rieslings from Ernst Loosen’s top vineyards are fabulous in 2019, a year with a wicked heat spike in August and heavy rain late in September that caused lots of botrytis, which is great for noble sweet Rieslings but challenging for dry wines such as this one.  All of those challenges were overcome in this case, thanks to many factors including super strict fruit selection from very old vines and Riesling’s inherent resiliency against all sorts of climatic extremes.  This wine has serious palate weight that could challenge even experienced Riesling lovers to identify it as a Mosel wine if tasted “blind.”  (I “showed” a glass blind to a friend with a very good palate and lots of experience who guessed Albariño first and Pinot Gris second, just based on the wine’s richness, and not at all implausibly.)   On reflection, though, Riesling’s peerless class shows in the wine’s impeccable clarity of fruit, which recalls perfectly ripe tangerines at the core of the aromas and flavors.  Aromatic accents of white blossoms are quite lovely in their subtlety, and though the fruit notes are more prominent than usual in relation to the telltale slate minerality that defines great Mosel wines, there’s plenty of slate signature here, and it is likely to become more expressive as this bottling ages.  The wine’s acidity is very well integrated, which is again to say that this is a rich, fruit-forward wine that is already extremely enjoyable.  I’m not sure this will attain the inner detail and layered character of some cooler vintages of this wine from Loosen, but it shows as much near-term appeal as any I can remember, and remarkable heft without — somehow — seeming hefty.        
94 Michael Franz Jun 8, 2021

Fritz Haag, Mosel (Germany) Riesling Brauenberger Juffer Sonnenuhr GG 2016 ($52, Loosen Bros. USA):  A sensational Riesling that might well be the best dry release I’ve ever tasted from this fine producer, this is a complete and compelling wine.  The aromas are hugely expressive, with floral and fruit notes beautifully intertwined, and those impressions echo on the palate, with crackly acidity and wonderful slatey minerality joining the party.  On top of all this, the aromas and flavors are actually transcended by the excellence of the wine’s texture, which is magically light and substantial at once, and also wonderfully layered and energetic.  I have no doubt that this will become even more complex in the years ahead, but it is so exciting right now that nobody could be blamed for cracking into it immediately.  By the way, the "GG" designation means that this is essentially a Grand Cru wine, though the designation is accorded by a private association of high-end producers, and doesn't have legal status in the way that Cru designations do in France.  However, nobody could taste this wine without concluding that the "GG" was entirely fitting based on its marvelous complexity and elegance.
94 Michael Franz Nov 7, 2017

Maximin Grünhäuser, Mosel (Germany) Riesling Spätlese Abtsberg 2010 ($37):  The Maximin Grünhaus estate, one of Germany’s finest, has been owned exclusively by the von Schubert family since 1882.  As a monopole, the usual German style of nomenclature--village followed by vineyard name--is not required.  It’s composed of two reasonably sized (35-45 acres) south facing vineyards, Abtsberg and Herrenberg and one tiny (2.5-acre) one, Bruderberg, on the slopes of the Ruwer River just before it joins the Mosel.  The 2010 Abtsberg Spatlese is simply stunning with richness bordering on Auslese level and riveting acidity than prolongs the peach-like nuances.  A delicate earthy minerality underscores the uniqueness of the site. 94 Michael Apstein Aug 16, 2011

Peter Lauer, Mosel (Germany) Riesling "Fass 15 Stirn" 2018 ($43, Vom Boden):  The Peter Lauer estate in located in the Saar – Germany’s most prestigious address for many German wine aficionados.  Now sold under the broader appellation of Mosel, Saar wines remain among the most sought-after of all German whites.  The transformative German wine law of 1971 changed the centuries-old vineyard names throughout Germany.  While there is something to be said for reducing 30,000 names to less than 3,000, some detail is obviously lost in the change.  Ayler Kupp is one of the great vineyards of the Saar with its steep slopes overlooking the river.  Florian Lauer manages the Lauer estate and petitioned for the use of traditional names for segments of the Ayler Kupp vineyard.  Perhaps surprisingly, his request was approved, and the result is this bottling.  Stirn is at the top of the slope with rocky soils of weathered slate.  The Stirn Fass 15 Riesling is a beautiful expression of the Saar style.  The bouquet is expressive and enchanting with green apple, candied citrus peel, peach and tropical fruit scents interwoven with elements of flowers, subtle herbs and gingery spice.  On the palate, it shows pure flavors of green apple, candied lemon, grapefruit and guava backed by a ginger-like spice and the racy, electric finish that defines the best Saar wines. This is a delicious Riesling that will cellar well for another 20 years.    
94 Wayne Belding Feb 18, 2020

S.A. Prum, Mosel (Germany) Riesling Wehlener Sonnenuhr Kabinett 2012 ($25): Prum's 2012 Wehlener Sonnenuhr Kabinett is fresh and appealing, showing aromas of ripe pear, apple and jasmine, with a hint of brioche. With mouth-watering acidity that balances the sweetness of the fruit, it is rich and luxurious on the palate, with exceptional persistence through the finish. A panel of advanced and master sommeliers awarded this wine 94 points and a Platinum medal at the 7th annual Sommelier Challenge International Wine Competition. 94 Robert Whitley Sep 15, 2015

Suben, Mosel (Germany) Riesling 2015 ($25): Ahhhh… Riesling.  When done well, it's the most sublime and interesting wine there is.  This is one of those wines, and it's one you have a chance of finding in the domestic marketplace.  The mix of citric flavors and the acidity that you expect to accompany them shines in this glass, with appropriate notes of spice and stone joining in.  A sweeter aperitif that will work with mild cheeses.  A Platinum Award winner at the 2017 Monterey International Wine Competition.
94 Rich Cook Mar 7, 2017

Thomas Schmitt Private Collection, Mosel (Germany) Riesling QBA 2018 ($14, Delicato):  At three percent residual sugar, German Riesling can still carry so much acidity that you barely notice the sweetness.  It presents more as fresh picked fruit than sugary, and it works like no other place in the world save maybe Washington State.  This one is firing on all cylinders in that regard in spot-on fashion, and at a great price to boot.  Prost!  A Platinum Award winner at the 2020 Sommelier Challenge International Wine & Spirits Competition.   
94 Rich Cook Sep 22, 2020

Willi Schaefer, Mosel (Germany) Riesling Kabinett Graacher Domprobst 2020 ($49, Skurnik Wines):  A great Mosel Riesling Kabinett ranks among the most exciting and delightful wines you will ever try.  From a top estate, this Kabinett is marked by pure fruit of remarkable intensity, complexity and vibrant acidity.  The Graacher Domprobst vineyard lies along one of the great stretches of vineyard in all the world.  The steep slate slopes above the Mosel River encompass the sites of Bernkastel, Graach, Wehlen and Zeltingen-Rachtig in one continuous sweep.  The Domprobst has a perfect exposure in the village of Graach and Willi Schaefer has crafted a stellar Kabinett in the 2020 vintage.  You will delight in its array of green apple, lemon and tropical fruits interwoven with hints of white flowers and lemongrass.  As a classic Kabinett, it is made in an off-dry style, but the slight residual sugar is perfectly balanced by its electric acidity.  The sweet/tart interplay tantalizes the palate and gives the pure apple and citrus fruits a crystalline quality.  Enjoy it with your favorite Asian recipes or just by itself on a warm summer day.         
94 Wayne Belding Jun 13, 2023

Dr. H. Thanisch, Mosel (Germany) Riesling Auslese Bernkasteler Lay 2009 ($41, Winesellers, Ltd.):  Thanisch is rightly regarded as one of the top producers in the Mosel, and this wine certainly shows the estate at the top of its game.  The 2009 vintage in western Germany turned out a lot of juicy, fruity, relatively soft wines that don’t quite have the zingy interplay of acidity with sweetness required to allow them to prove as refreshing as they are appealing, and of course this issue is even more pressing in riper, sweeter categories like Spätlese and Auslese.  Here’s a terrific case in counterpoint, as the gorgeous fruit (marked by complex notes of poached peaches, baked apples and mandarin oranges) is freshened and lifted by excellent acidity that drives the flavors through the finish, giving way only to a lovely mineral tinge rather than any cloying, clunky sweetness.  Absolutely gorgeous, and unusually age-worthy for a 2009, this is nevertheless irresistible at the moment. 93 Michael Franz Dec 13, 2011

Dr. H. Thanisch, Mosel (Germany) Riesling Kabinett Bernkasteler Badstube 2008 ($23, Winesellers, Ltd.):  A textbook rendering of Riesling from the Mosel, this wine is at once intricate in its complexity but seamless in its integration.  In aroma and flavor, it shows a gorgeous core of stone fruit notes with lovely hints of both tropical and citrus fruits.  The finish shows terrific acidity and an engaging slatey minerality, with the flavors tailing off very slowly in a perfectly symmetrical fashion.  Lightly sweet but not to a degree that need prove confining with food, this is very promising for the table but also a stunning aperitif. 93 Michael Franz Apr 27, 2010

Dr. Loosen, Mosel (Germany) Riesling Kabinett Erdener Treppchen 2010 ($20, Loosen Bros. USA):  Greet your holiday party guests with a glass of this Riesling and they will be thrilled.  The village of Erden, situated in the Middle Mosel, the most exalted portion of the river’s vineyards, produces beautifully structured and precise wines, such as this one from one of the Mosel’s leading producers, Dr. Loosen.  This Kabinett conveys a bracing minerality and a laser-like focus, complemented by the barest hint of sweetness that acts as an amplifier for all the flavors.  And, it does all this with only an 8%-stated alcohol.  It’s another powerful argument than you don’t need super ripe grapes to make gorgeous wine. 93 Michael Apstein Dec 6, 2011

Fritz Haag, Mosel (Germany) Riesling Trocken Brauneberger Juffer GG 2018 ($46, Loosen Brothers USA):  An extremely promising early look at German Rieslings from the 2018 vintage, this offering from the VDP Grosse Lage site of Brauneberger Juffer is a complete, balanced, and convincingly delicious dry rendering of the variety.  Complex aromas include tangerine, green apple and wet slate, with good palate weight but plenty of mouth-watering acidity.  Focused and even taut in the finish, yet not austere or metallic at all, this is poised for a full decade of positive development, provided that those who purchase it can be that patient.  Having tasted it, there’s no chance that it would last that long in my household.   
93 Michael Franz Dec 10, 2019

Markus Molitor, Mosel (Germany) Riesling Spätlese Wehlener Klosterberg 2020 ($39, Milton Road Trading Co.):  Meyer lemons, a touch of Lavender, and limestone minerality round out the pretty, Springtime aromas of Markus Molitor’s 2020 Wehlener Klosterberg Riesling Spätlese.  A dose of residual sugar and lees aging give the wine depth and body, while a punchy jolt of acidity breathes life and energy into it.  This is a beautiful wine, marrying sugar and acidity to great effect.        
93 John McDermott Jan 9, 2024

Maximim Grünhäuser, Mosel (Germany) Riesling Kabinett Herrenberg 2012 ($34, Loosen Brothers USA): The miracle of great Riesling lies in its seemingly contradictory characteristics.  Who can understand how flavors can be both mesmerizingly delicate and at the same time explosive in all their layers of floral, honeyed, minerally deliciousness?  How can a wine’s texture be both weightless and all encompassing, and how can it taste at the same time bracingly acidic and soothingly sweet?  Fleet, agile, immaculate, the Riesling is propelled forward without accumulating intensity as it evolves.  I can’t explain any of this -- I can only urge you to open a bottle of chilled Maximin Grünäuser as soon as possible.
93 Marguerite Thomas Nov 19, 2013

Maximin Grünhäuser, Mosel (Germany) Riesling Abtsberg Superior 2012 ($60, Loosen Bros. USA): This is a gorgeous, charismatic Riesling with a broad and deep structure and layers of mouth-watering flavors.  It is delicately off-dry, with suggestions of honey and summer fruits plus that mysterious stone minerality that races through the finest German Rieslings.  If ever there is a wine that might make you purr, this is the one.
93 Marguerite Thomas Dec 2, 2014

Reichsgraf von Kesselstatt, Mosel (Germany) Riesling Kabinett Josephshöfer 2013 ($29): The 2013 Mosel Rieslings are among the most exciting and delightful wines you will ever try.  The vintage is marked by pure fruit of remarkable intensity and vibrant acidity.  Josephshöfer is a monopole vineyard, meaning that it is owned solely by the Reichsgraf von Kesselstatt Estate.  The vineyard lies along the Mosel River in the village of Graach.  You will delight in its range of green apple, lemon and tropical fruits interwoven with hints of white flowers and lemongrass.  As a classic Kabinett, it is made in an off-dry style, but the slight residual sugar is perfectly balanced by its electric acidity.  The sweet/tart interplay tantalizes the palate and gives the pure apple and citrus fruits a nearly crystalline quality.  Enjoy this classic Mosel with your favorite Asian recipes or just by itself on a warm summer day.
93 Wayne Belding Jun 9, 2015

Richard Bocking, Mosel (Germany) Riesling 2016 ($35):  I wish more wines like this one came through my inbox.  Of course, such events may lead to distraction during review sessions, since this wine made me stop what I was doing for personal refreshment purposes.  Tasting fresh as a daisy with over four years since harvest, it’s very expressive of what you expect in Riesling, like lemon, lime and tart apple, and adds interest with subtle layers of tropical fruit and a stony minerality that knits it all together.  If you haven’t had the pleasure of aged Riesling, get some of this to drink now, and some to drink ten years from now – it’s a worthy candidate.       
93 Rich Cook Feb 23, 2021

Schloss Lieser Thomas Haag, Mosel (Germany) Riesling Spätlese Brauneberger Juffer Sonnenuhr 2008 ($36, Rudi Wiest Selections):  A nicely balanced wine that's sweet but has the acidity to keep it refreshing.  It smells like yellow peaches ripening in the sun on a bed of rocks.  But the palate is more of apricot and lime, as well as limestone.  Finishes with apricot.  Just 7% alcohol. 93 W. Blake Gray Nov 30, 2010

Schmitges, Mosel (Germany) Erdener Prälat Riesling Auslese *** 2009 ($70):  This wine starts off intense -- green plum jam! honeycomb! sugared almonds! -- and finishes elegantly.  There's an intriguing marmite note in the aroma, along with hints of key lime.  Strong acidity promises a long life; you'd be robbing the cradle to drink this in the next couple of years, but if you do, it's already tasty.  Just 7% alcohol. 93 W. Blake Gray Nov 16, 2010

St. Urbans-Hof, Mosel (Germany) Riesling Spätlese Ockfener Bockstein 2009 ($25, HB Wine Merchants):  All great wines, no matter who makes them or what the grapes are, have one thing in common: a general harmony that stimulates the senses.   Everything is in exquisite balance in this German wine, including the delicate floral fragrance that wafts up from the glass, the well integrated honeyed and peachy flavors, the almost textural dose of minerality, and the bounce of acidity that scours the palate and sets it for another sip. 93 Marguerite Thomas Jun 22, 2010

The Seeker, Mosel (Germany) Riesling 2012 ($15): On the nose this wine seduces with intense notes of floral and spice. On the palate it shows hints of guava and stone fruits, with a delicious thread of brioche that will evolve even more clearly as the wine gains some bottle age. For the money, an amazing mouthful of wine. 93 Robert Whitley Apr 15, 2014

Bollig-Lehnert, Mosel (Germany) Riesling Kabinett Piesporter Goldtröpfchen 2009 ($19, Winesellers, Ltd.):  This is a complex wine that is strikingly harmonious despite its intricacy.  The fruit notes show--simultaneously--scents and flavors recalling tropical, citrus, and stone fruits, with a palpable minerality.  The finish is long and symmetrical, and though the flavors are very ripe, there’s plenty of acidic definition at the end. 92 Michael Franz Jan 11, 2011

Carl von Schubert / Maximin Grünhäuser, Mosel (Germany) Riesling 2015 ($20, Loosen Bros. USA):  Like all excellent Rieslings this one delivers that mysterious synthesis of sweet and tart, with layers and layers of flavor and a hint of wet-slate minerality.  Relatively low in alcohol, and very high in delivered pleasure, drink this on its own or with salty/spicy Asian-inspired fare or with crispy fried food such as fritto misto di mare for example. 92 Marguerite Thomas Oct 3, 2017

Dr. H. Thanisch, Mosel (Germany) Riesling Kabinett Berncasteler Doctor 2009 ($38, Winesellers, Ltd.):  This famous wine looks very good in the 2009 vintage, showing a very ripe, juicy profile at this stage of its development.  Although it is notably sweeter than the norm for Kabinett-designated Rieslings, the balance of sugar to acidity and minerality is quite convincing, making this a great choice either for current consumption or for cellaring. 92 Michael Franz Dec 28, 2010

Fritz Haag, Mosel (Germany) Riesling Trocken Brauneberger 2020 ($30, Loosen Bros. USA):  This wine is very complex, beautifully balanced, and just flat-out delicious.  Climate change is scary as hell, but this is the sort of wine that was almost impossible to make for early enjoyment in the Mosel as recently as a decade ago, but warmer temperatures have throttled back acidity, and this is wonderful right out of the starting blocks.  Truly dry, but still with the flavors of fully ripe fruit (recalling nectarines and apples), this is neither overly austere nor sweet-seeming.  Rather, it is coherently ripe but still very fresh, with lots of slate minerality lending complexity to the convincingly delicious fruit.         
92 Michael Franz Sep 13, 2022

Shades of Blue, Mosel (Germany) Riesling NV ($12, Kobrand Wine & Spirits):  This budget bottling gets to the heart of why people adore Riesling.  A little citrus, a little stone fruit, a little petrol, a little sweetness and a lot of acidity that are just a pleasure to drink.  I could say more, but let’s go Hemingway this time.  A Platinum Award winner at the 2021 Winemaker Challenge International Wine Competition.       
92 Rich Cook Apr 20, 2021

Shades of Blue, Mosel (Germany) Riesling NV ($12, Kobrand Wine & Spirits):   Shades of Blue gets to the heart of why people adore Riesling.  A little citrus, a little stonefruit, a little petrol, a little sweetness and a lot of acidity that are just a pleasure to drink.  A Platinum Award winner at the 2021 Critics Challenge International Wine & Spirits Competition.      
92 Rich Cook Jun 22, 2021

Zilliken, Mosel (Germany) Riesling Trocken Saarburg Alte Reben 2020 ($48, Loosen Bros. USA):  German Rieslings from the 2020 vintage have been shining on my tasting bench this summer, showing wonderfully open, juicy flavors and excellent internal balance.  This bottle shows another side of the vintage, namely, its capacity for also producing taut, age-worthy wines that can unwind and improve for many years.  This won’t hit its apogee for another five years, and though there’s a lot of subjectivity involved in when a German wine is at its “apogee,” I doubt that many lovers of these wines would taste this now without wishing they hadn’t waited to open their bottle.  However, if the bottle happened to belong to someone else, I have no doubt that any Riesling lover would enjoy a crack at it right now.  The fruit recalls green apples and barely ripe peaches, with interesting mineral undertones that will become more prominent as this loosens up.  Acidity figures very prominently in the finish, and there’s not too much of it for me to enjoy this thoroughly right now, but I’m sure you’ve caught the idea that this is best bought now and enjoyed in a few years.          
92 Michael Franz Aug 23, 2022

Bollig-Lehnert, Mosel (Germany) Riesling Kabinett Trittenheimer Apothke 2009 ($18, Winesellers, Ltd.):  Very fruity but also laden with mineral notes, this is a Riesling that proves both interesting and simply pleasurable.  Fruit notes of mandarin and ripe peach are very expressive and generous, with abundant accents of wet slate and lots of vibrant acidity in the finish. 91 Michael Franz Jan 11, 2011

Dr. Loosen, Mosel (Germany) Ürziger Würzgarten Spätlese 2010 ($26, Loosen Bros. USA): The absence of a grape name on the label means, by law, the wine is made from Riesling, Germany’s most revered grape.  And this is a quintessential Riesling from the steep banks of the Mosel River.  Vibrant and fruity, a hint of sweetness amplifies its mineral aspect and makes it ideal as a stand-alone aperitif or with spicy Asian fare.  Brisk acidity and hints of spice makes the sweetness refreshing, not cloying. 91 Michael Apstein Nov 29, 2011

Dr. Loosen, Mosel (Germany) Riesling Kabinett Bernkasteler Lay 2016 ($28, Loosen Bros. USA):  Loosen's Bernkasteler Lay vineyard (situated quite near the estate house in Bernkastel) sometimes produces Eiswein and now increasingly a Trocken GG bottling, but it always makes fresh, lithe Kabinett, as in 2016.  It shows lovely, lifted aromas and flavors of tangerines and spiced apples leading to a finish that is energized with lots of crackly acidity and very pronounced mineral notes from slate.  Alcohol is quite low at 8%, with impeccable balance of sweetness and acidity, making this a wonderful aperitif.
91 Michael Franz Nov 28, 2017

Dr. Loosen, Mosel (Germany) Riesling Spätlese Wehlener Sonnenuhr 2012 ($34, Loosen Bros. USA): Sonnenuhr is the German word for “sundial,” which seems an appropriate name for a vineyard that yields such a bright, golden, sunny wine ringed with infinite rays of fresh, fruit-driven flavors.  The vines are anchored on a precariously steep, rocky slope, which is a fitting metaphor for the wine’s underpinning of minerality and slate layered texture.  Sonnenuhr is a Riesling that is elegant and absolutely delicious.
91 Marguerite Thomas Feb 25, 2014

Ernst Clüsserath, Mosel (Germany) Riesling Trittenheimer Altärchen Kabinett Feinherb “Emma Marie” 2009 ($8, Savio Soares Selections):  Ernst Clüsserath is a member of the Bernkasteler Ring, and his family is well-known in the Mosel, as (like in Burgundy) you'll see the same last name on other wineries' bottlings.  This is not a huge winery, but it's a serious one, with a commitment to sustainable farming.  Ernst took over the family business in 1991 and makes small amounts of Riesling from steep, well-respected vineyards like Altärchen.  The aroma of this wine has bright apricot notes and so much slate character that it feels like you can smell the individual stones.  It's not quite that stony on the palate, but the minerality underpins a refreshing mouthful of tangy apricot and tangerine.  There's 22 g/L of residual sugar, but you'd guess it was less.  10.5% alcohol. 91 W. Blake Gray Nov 16, 2010

Fritz Haag, Mosel (Germany) Riesling Trocken 2012 ($22, Loosen Brothers USA): Riesling that is finished dry (“Trocken,” in German), without any residual sugar left after the fermentation, is much more difficult to make well, for the simple reason that sugar serves to hide a whole host of flaws or shortcomings in wine.  (This is, by the way, one reason why truly cheap wine was always traditionally rather sweet.)  Be that as it may, there are no flaws evident in this dry Riesling, which shows lovely aromas and flavors punctuated by freshening acidity that never turns overly tart or sour.  Pair this with broiled or grilled fish.
91 Michael Franz Dec 10, 2013

Karthäuserhof Estate, Mosel (Germany) Riesling Trocken 2012 ($30, Rudi Wiest): The wines of the Ruwer river valley (a tributary of the Mosel) are among the most delicate and crystalline of all German Rieslings.  The Karthäuserhof 2012 Riesling Trocken exemplifies the filigreed Ruwer style.  The bouquet is expressive and nuanced, with lemon, apple and pineapple fruit tones enhanced by subtleties of white flowers, lime and honey.  On the palate, it has a remarkably rich texture with the profusion of fruit and floral elements underlain by a minerally clean and dry style.
91 Wayne Belding Jul 22, 2014

Schloss Lieser Thomas Haag, Mosel (Germany) Riesling Kabinett 2009 ($25, Rudi Wiest Selections):  This wine is so earthy that you don't smell fruit, but you can smell flowers growing from the soil.  On the palate, though, it's much fruitier and livelier, with notes of apricot and lime and some minerality.  The mouthfeel has a juicy weight to it, surprising for an 8.5% alcohol wine. 91 W. Blake Gray Nov 30, 2010

Schloss Lieser Thomas Haag, Mosel (Germany) Riesling Kabinett 2009 ($25, Rudi Wiest Selections):  This wine is so earthy that you don't smell fruit, but you can smell flowers growing from the soil.  On the palate, though, it's much fruitier and livelier, with notes of apricot and lime and some minerality.  The mouthfeel has a juicy weight to it, surprising for an 8.5% alcohol wine. 91 W. Blake Gray Nov 23, 2010

Schmitges, Mosel (Germany) Riesling Spätlese Erdener Treppchen 2009 ($27, Magellan Wine Imports):  From a member of the prestigious Bernkasteler Ring trade group, this is a classic Mosel Riesling that delivers lovely lime, apricot and apple fruit with pretty rose-petal notes.  It doesn't open sweet, but gets sweeter as it goes on.  Just 8% alcohol. 91 W. Blake Gray Nov 16, 2010

Shades of Blue, Mosel (Germany) Riesling NV ($12):  One might look at this wine and wonder why no vintage date appears, but nobody will much care about that after cracking into it for a taste.  Floral aromatics that suggest Riesling clearly and emphatically, and the flavors follow suit deliciously, with sweetness that is evident, but not so prominent that the wine can’t serve many purposes.  A fine porch sipper for spring, but also well suited to pairing with spicy dishes, this also offers excellent value.  A Platinum Award winner at the 2022 San Diego International Wine and Spirits Challenge.      
91 Michael Franz Feb 1, 2022

Sorentberg, Mosel ("Rotschiefer") Riesling "Rotschiefer" 2018 ($32, Volio Vino):  The story of Sorentberg is one of vineyard resurrection.  Located in a side valley near the Middle Mosel village of Reil, the steep-sloping vineyard on rare red slate (rotscheifer) soils had been abandoned for 25 years.  Two young winegrowers, one from the Mosel and the other from Italy’s South Tyrol, joined forces in 2012 to bring this site back to life.  The vineyard was overgrown with thorn bushes but in the clearing process, they found 1000 self-rooted Riesling vines that had survived their decades of neglect.  With the old vines as a base, they replanted the vineyard and this wine is the result.  The 2018 Sorentberg Rotscheifer Riesling is a sensational dry Riesling with the racy elegance of the Mosel backed by a remarkably rich texture.  It is bold, bright, layered and absolutely delicious.  The bouquet reveals green apple, lime, peach and grapefruit tones enhanced by floral elements, a wet-stone freshness and lively ginger spice.  Although still youthful, the flavors are pure and concentrated with the luscious fruits interwoven with the spice and floral nuances.  The purity and intensity of exquisitely crafted Riesling is on display here.  It’s a delicious wine with a great story.      
91 Wayne Belding Mar 9, 2021

St. Urbans-Hof, Mosel (Germany) Riesling Auslese Piesporter Goldtröpfchen 2009 ($54, HB Wine Merchants):  This lovely wine is filled with a particular kind of energy that sends it dancing lightly across the tongue.  It is rich and full, characterized by nutmeg and other spices, brown sugar, peaches and yellow Mirabelle plums.  The wine is sweet but not sugary, and among its many charms is a satisfying spine tingling acidity. 91 Marguerite Thomas Jun 22, 2010

Weingut Clemens Busch, Mosel (Germany) Riesling Trocken 2021 ($25, Louis/Dressner):  The Clemens Busch estate is located in the village of Pünderich which is located a few miles downstream from Erden and Ürzig and the Mosel’s most famous winegrowing villages.  A look at the map, however, reveals it shares a similar, south-facing aspect with Erden, Ürzig and Piesport.  The wines of Clemens Busch, however, are transforming the reputation of Pünderich vineyards.  The 2021 estate Riesling Trocken is a pure, lively, intense and dry Riesling that exemplifies the racy elegance of the Mosel.  It offers fresh scents of green apple, lime, and tropical fruit enhanced by floral elements, a wet-stone freshness and lively spice.  The flavors are pure and lively with the luscious apple and citrus fruits interwoven with the spice and floral nuances.  It will drink well for another 5 to 8 years and more.        
91 Wayne Belding Dec 12, 2023

Bischöfliche Weingüter Trier, Mosel (Germany) Riesling Kabinett Ayler Kupp 2012 ($23, Schmitt Sohne USA): This producer with a tongue-twisting name is the unified face of three historic properties in the Mosel region; although the ownership merged in 1966, the wines have had unified labeling only since 2010.  A new release from the impressive 2012 vintage, this wine is far more than just a charming, delicious Riesling.  Typical of the vintage, the wine has quite a lot of extract, which gives a serious face to its peachy, lemony concentrated fruit flavor; its slatey minerality on the finish enhances the wine’s gravitas.  Despite its approximately 50 grams of residual sugar, the wine has enough acidity to taste just medium-dry, and can be a great accompaniment to roast pork, grilled salmon, or most savory foods.  This wine is very young now and can endure for several years.
90 Mary Ewing-Mulligan Jul 16, 2013

Clean Slate, Mosel (Germany) Riesling 2009 ($10, Winebow):  The name says it all: Clean Slate is both bracingly clean and refreshing, and is notable for its subtle slate-like minerality.  Actually, the name doesn’t quite say it all.  There’s also the gorgeous fragrance, the mouth-watering stone-fruit flavors to balance that crisp stony element, the low alcohol (10.5 percent), and the long lasting impression it leaves on the palate. It’s no wonder this wine has been the recipient of numerous medals and awards, including a Platinum medal at this year’s Critics’ Challenge competition.  Do yourself a favor and pick up a bottle (or more) of Clean Slate Riesling pronto. 90 Marguerite Thomas Sep 13, 2011

Clean Slate, Mosel (Germany) Riesling 2019 ($12, Mundivino Winebow Imports):  This dry Riesling has a pale yellow color with delicate green apple, citrus and floral aromas combined with dusty mineral notes.  In the mouth are attention-getting intense flavors of peaches, green apples, and Meyer lemon enhanced by bright, cleansing acidity and lingering flavors.  Great for a pool party, picnic or a Niçoise salad with grilled tuna.  It is quite a bargain and will be great for summer entertaining.  The producer is Moselland, a grower cooperative winery created in 1968.  Their website says that they are one of the largest producers of Riesling in the world.  I read their statement reading, “Making high quality wines with unique and clear taste profiles is our passion” before I tasted this wine.  They nailed it with the clear taste profile.         
90 Rebecca Murphy May 25, 2021

Dr. H. Thanisch, Mosel (Germany) Riesling Kabinett Berncasteler Badstube 2009 ($22, Winesellers, Ltd.):  The Thanisch Rieslings show a very generous sweetness in the 2009 vintage, and this release really tastes more like a standard Spätlese than a Kabinett.  Nevertheless, the sweetness is effectively offset by fresh acidity, making this a very promising candidate for aperitif purposes or pairing with spicy foods. 90 Michael Franz Dec 28, 2010

Dr. Loosen, Mosel (Germany) Riesling Kabinett “Blue Slate” 2009 ($20, Loosen Bros. USA):  Off-dry and light on the palate, with peach, apricot, and slightly honeyed flavors that linger effortlessly, this is a delicious aperitif sipper.  Don’t be put off by its sweetness, as there is more than enough crisp acidity for balance.  Also, don’t try to pair it with food of any heft or substance.  The wine’s great charm is its delicacy, something that easily will get lost if it’s forced to compete for attention. 90 Paul Lukacs Oct 26, 2010

Dr. Loosen, Mosel (Germany) Riesling “Blue Slate” 2011 ($0, Loosen Bros. USA): As lovely and delicate as fine lace, this Riesling’s inherent breath of sweetness is perfectly balanced by refreshing acidity.  Notes of shimmering fruitiness and suggestions of minerality complete the tasty picture.
90 Marguerite Thomas Jun 18, 2013

Dr. Loosen, Mosel (Germany) Riesling Kabinett Wehlener Sonnenuhr 2015 ($24, Loosen Bros. USA):  Peachy and lively, Dr. Loosen’s Wehlener Sonnenuhr is guaranteed to cut through whatever summer throws at us.  Riveting acidity tingles the palate.  The overall level of sweetness makes this Kabinett come across like a Spatlese.  That said, it’s an excellent choice for grilled sausages or highly spiced dishes.  The screw cap closure makes it especially tempting to have a glass while relaxing after work.
90 Michael Apstein Jul 24, 2018

Dr. Thanisch, Mosel (Germany) Riesling 'Classic' 2009 ($17):  "Classic" here means the familiar Mosel off-dry style, with a low level of alcohol and sumptuous peach, apricot, and apple fruit flavors.  Not honeyed or sugary, just fresh and pure, this is an ideal wine for summer sipping, especially when the weather turns hot and humid.  Delicious now, it likely will taste just as good if not better next summer, as it offers plenty of bracing acidity to provide refreshment.

90 Paul Lukacs Jun 19, 2012

Dr. Thanisch, Mosel (Germany) Riesling Bernkasteler Badstube Spätlese 2007 ($30, Chapin Cellars/Billington):

Thanisch is a consistently good source for classically-styled Rieslings from Germany's Mosel valley, and if you like your wines very light, aromatically expressive, and sweet but fresh, this is the ticket.  Nice notes of slatey minerals lend complexity to the finish, which shows very good integration of fruit, sweetness and acidity.

Friedrich Wilhelm Gymnasium, Mosel (Germany) Riesling “Fritz Willi” Frizzante NV ($19, Schmitt Söhne):   A totally fun and festive wine to enjoy in front of the fire (in winter) or on the deck (in summer) Fritz Willi is a gently fizzy, somewhat sweet (medium dry) all-season charmer from Germany.  It’s low in alcohol (12%) and high in suggestions of apple and other fruity Riesling flavors.  In case you wonder about the word “gymnasium” in the estate’s name, wonder no more:  The cellars, where the wine is fermented, lie under the city of Trier, where a Jesuit secondary school was founded in 1593, and for centuries wine production helped support the school.  
90 Marguerite Thomas Mar 19, 2019

Graff Collection, Mosel (Germany) Riesling Spätlese Graacher Himmelreich 2010 ($17):  The wine merchant and importer, Valckenberg acquired the Carl Graff estate in 1969 and sold off the vineyards, but kept the rights to the name, eventually dropping the Carl.  Hence, this is a négociant wine and shows just how good they can be when the selection is rigorous.  It weighs in on the less rich side of Spätlese with a captivating delicacy and nuances of white peaches.  Tongue tickling zesty acidity makes you smile.  Its precise flavors persist into a long and graceful finish.  It’s a perfect aperitif and a great match for spicy Asian fare. 90 Michael Apstein Aug 16, 2011

Heinz Eifel, Mosel (Germany) Riesling Kabinett 2017 ($15, Winesellers):  This medium-sweet wine is made from very ripe Riesling grapes that have been allowed to hang long on the vine.   With its rich, juicy pear flavors, this is a wine that serves beautifully as an aperitif, but it also goes well with many poultry and/or creamy pasta dishes.  
90 Marguerite Thomas Sep 3, 2019

J. J. Prüm, Mosel (Germany) Riesling Kabinett 2011 ($24, Valckenberg):  J. J. Prüm, one of the very best producers in the Mosel, makes a consistently stunning array of vineyard designated wines, such as Wehlener Sonnenuhr or Graacher Himmelreich.  You can buy them year in and year out and never be disappointed.  This wine, labeled just Riesling without even a village name, is his entry-level wine.  And what an entrance!  It’s a fabulous introduction to the style of this iconic producer.   With this lacey wine, J. J. Prüm captures the tension between the floral delicacy, the minerality and the riveting acidity of Mosel Riesling.  Fruity enough to be enjoyed as an aperitif, it has the requisite vibrancy to accompany grilled swordfish bathed in a caper butter sauce. 90 Michael Apstein Aug 21, 2012

Maximin Grünhaus, Mosel (Germany) Riesling Kabinett Abtsberg 2016 ($36, Loosen Bros. USA):  I look forward to tasting this wine each year, as the Kabinett release of Riesling from Grünhaus' magnificent Abtsberg vineyard is always among the most delicious wines and most telling indicators of the character of the vintage.  The 2016 is indeed delicious, but also unusual in character, being much softer, lower in acidity, and less lively in texture than usual.  Wondering whether this is indicative of the 2016 more broadly, I checked the vintage report from Terry Theise, my long lost friend (who moved from DC to Boston) and German wine importer extraordinaire.  He writes glowingly of the vintage overall, but with regard to the Mosel, remarks that, "...[T]he omnipresent silkiness of the vintage worked against a grower whose wines are meant to be crunchy. The consolation prize is that growers whose wines were over-acidic in 2015 were just fantastically balanced in 2016."  Well, I think of Grunhaus' Abtsberg Kabinett as a wine that is almost always "crunchy" (or "crackly," as I'd be more apt to write), but it is not in 2016.  Some tasters will love the wines roundness and weight, which really makes it come across more like Spätlese than Kabinett, and all tasters will have to admit that it is a wonderful drink, but in my opinion it just doesn't compare to the most exciting vintages of this wine.
90 Michael Franz Oct 10, 2017

Nik Weis, Mosel (Germany) Urban Riesling 2015 ($15, HB Wine Merchants): This wine needs a bit of air time -- put it in a chiller decanter, or swirl the daylights out of it while tasting.  You'll be glad you did.  It's got a very interesting nose of struck rock and white flowers that draw you into the off dry palate that features lemon, melon and lime zest flavors, finishing long and crisply refreshing.  Serve with charcuterie, or try it with deviled eggs.
90 Rich Cook Jul 5, 2016

Peter Lauer, Mosel (Germany) Riesling Feinherb "Barrel X" 2018 ($22, Vom Boden):  The Peter Lauer estate in located in Germany’s Mosel anbaugebeit, although the wines are drawn from vineyards in the Saar – a tributary of the Mosel noted for the delicacy and finesse of its wines.  Florian Lauer currently manages the estate and is focused on producing dry or barely off-dry wines.  His Barrel X Riesling Feinherb is a perfect expression of the Saar style.  Feinherb is a designation of an off-dry character.  The bouquet is expressive and enticing with vivid citrus, apple and peach fruit scents interwoven with elements of flowers, subtle herbs, allspice and ginger.  On the palate, it shows pure flavors of green apple, lemon and peach backed by a ginger-like spice and the racy, electric finish that defines the best Saar wines. This is a delicious Riesling that will cellar well for another 3 to 5 years.  
90 Wayne Belding Dec 3, 2019

Reichsgraf Von Kesselstatt, Mosel (Germany) Riesling Kabinett Josephshofer 2012 ($31, Valckenberg Intl. Inc.): With its fresh but delicate fruity aromas and flavors -- suggestive of lemon, grapefruit, and tart apple, ripe peach -- its savory minerality and its medium-dry style, this wine personifies Mosel Riesling to me.  It hails from Von Kesslestatt’s monopole site, and shows terroir-driven concentration and extract.  This wine is still quite young and a bit austere, and I found it improved a day after being opened.  Only 11 percent alcohol.
90 Mary Ewing-Mulligan Jan 14, 2014

Schloss Saarstein, Mosel (Germany) Riesling Spätlese Serrig Schloss Saarsteiner 2013 ($42, Valckenberg International, Inc.): The Rieslings of Schloss Saarstein are favorites of mine, but it’s usually the Kabinetts I’m tasting, and here we have a riper, Spätlese-level wine.  You can really sink your teeth into this wine because it is so substantial with ripe fruit, savory mineral character and extract.  I would characterize it as medium-sweet and medium-bodied, but the real story is its concentration combined with a lift of lightness, for an effect of earthy weight and yet refreshing energy.  Its pronounced flavors include peach, orange, a bit of melon and stony character. 90 Mary Ewing-Mulligan Dec 23, 2014

St. Urbans-Hof, Mosel (Germany) Riesling 2009 ($13, HB Wine Merchants):  If you’re not really familiar with wines from the Mosel region, there’s no better place to start than with this one.   Not only is it lip-smacking delicious, but it’s hard to imagine another Mosel wine of this quality for a mere $13.  It has everything one looks for in good Mosel including fragrance, juiciness, electrifying acidity, and an almost salty minerality on the finish.  If you’re new to the wonders of good German wine, be prepared for a transformative experience. 90 Marguerite Thomas Jun 22, 2010

Urban, Mosel (Germany) Riesling 2017 ($15, HB Wine Merchants):  A solid value in an off-dry Riesling with lively stone fruit, citrus, stony minerality and lanolin aromas that lead to a lively palate where the promised fruits dance together with increasing intensity through the finale.  I can’t imagine anyone not liking this wine. 
90 Rich Cook May 8, 2018

Bischöfliche Weingüter Trier, Mosel (Germany) Riesling Fineherb DOM 2012 ($17, Schmitt Sohne USA): The DOM is the basic Riesling of the Bischöfliche Weingüter company, and it comes in several styles, varying by market and vintage.  This “Fineherb” style is off-dry, meaning that it has enough sweetness to be friendly, with enough acidity that you might not particularly notice its sweetness.  Aromas and flavors suggest lemon peel, orange zest and peachstone, and the wine finishes fruity but dry.  Delicious with smoked turkey, asparagus and dishes with light creamy sauces.
89 Mary Ewing-Mulligan Jul 16, 2013

Reichsgraf Von Kesselstatt, Mosel (Germany) Riesling "RK" 2012 ($19, Valckenberg Intl. Inc.): This Riesling is fruitier, a bit sweeter, and more flavorful than Von Kesselstatt’s pricier Josephshofer wine, and it is the choice for now, when you want easily accessible flavor and personality.  Despite its immediate charms, this is a serious Riesling, with just the right amount of crisp acidity to balance its fruity sweetness, and an intriguing stony character.  It is dry enough to air well with Asian-inspired dishes, grilled chicken, and similar foods.
89 Mary Ewing-Mulligan Jan 14, 2014

Bex, Mosel (Germany) Riesling 2009 ($10, Purple Wine Co.):  Light-bodied and beautifully balanced, with a streak of crisp acidity that extends well into the finish, this is a dry but not at all austere expression of the Riesling grape.  It tastes of apples and citrus, with hints of spring flowers in its perfume, and with an alcohol level of only 9.5% proves extremely easy to enjoy. 88 Paul Lukacs Feb 1, 2011

Clean Slate, Mosel (Germany) Riesling 2020 ($12, Winebow):  Clean Slate Riesling, imported from Germany by Winebow, is a perfect summer sipper at a price that will get you all the way to fall.  It is off-dry, but has enough acidity to carry the dash of residual sugar in style, keeping pure flavors of citrus and stone fruit with a little spice popping in thirst-quenching fashion.  Once again, nicely done.       
88 Rich Cook Jun 7, 2022

Dr. Loosen, Mosel (Germany) Dry Riesling “Red Slate” 2010 ($14, Loosen Bros. USA):  Happily, with Riesling surge’s in popularity in this country, we are seeing very high quality varietal wines--as opposed to vineyard designated ones--coming out of Germany, the place where Riesling excels.  Germany always sent us great vibrant Riesling from specific sites, such as Piesporter Goldtröpfchen.  But varietal Riesling from Germany was never much to recommend.  Now it is.  And you can start with this one.  It delivers far more complexity and interest than its simple label suggests.   Dry, as the label indicates, it’s mineraly with an appealing persistence.  Its firmness makes it better with food than as an aperitif. 88 Michael Apstein Dec 27, 2011

Dr. Loosen, Mosel (Germany) Dry Riesling “Red Slate” 2009 ($15, Loosen Bros. USA):  Though the label says “dry,” the wine is actually a tad sweet.  It does, though, have plenty of crisp, vibrant acidity, which keeps everything in appropriate balance.  Quite light in body, it will provide very enjoyable aperitif sipping. 88 Paul Lukacs Aug 30, 2011

Dr. Loosen, Mosel (Germany) Riesling “Red Slate” 2009 ($15, Loosen Bros. USA):  Though the label says “dry,” the wine is actually a tad sweet.  It does, though, have plenty of crisp, vibrant acidity, which keeps everything in appropriate balance.  Quite light in body, it will provide very enjoyable aperitif sipping. 88 Paul Lukacs Jul 5, 2011

Hans Eifel, Mosel (Germany) Riesling Kabinett 2009 ($12, Winesellers, Ltd.):  This wine is a good reminder of how wonderfully simple life can be.  Eifel’s easy-to-read label tells you everything you need to know in four easy steps.  1. The producer’s name.   2.  The name of the grape (Riesling).  3. The word “Kabinett,” the German term indicating that the wine will be somewhat light in style, and will be on the sweet side rather than ultra crisp.  4.  The region (Mosel).  Like most Kabinett Rieslings from the Mosel, this one is low in alcohol (8.5%), and like all good Kabinetts it has a lovely, pervasive perfume.   The wine’s pure, simple flavors are soothing and undemanding.  88 Marguerite Thomas Apr 27, 2010

Loosen Brothers, Mosel (Germany) Riesling “Dr. L” 2009 ($11, Loosen Brothers USA):  Dr. Loosen is a great German Riesling producer.  This wine is their basic rendition, made from grapes grown at various points along the Mosel River.  Wonderfully floral, the touch of sweetness is offset nicely by bracing acidity, which keeps it lively and prevents it from being cloying.  It conveys the delicate lacey quality that makes wines from the Mosel distinct and delightful.  It is equally at home as an aperitif as on the dinner table. 88. 88 Michael Apstein Apr 26, 2011

S. A. Prüm, Mosel (Germany) Riesling "Essence" 2009 ($12, Palm Bay International):  This wine does not deliver the nuanced subtlety that characterizes the best examples of Mosel Riesling, but for $12 it is simply a delicious wine to sip and enjoy.  Redolent of a fruit salad full pf peaches, apples, apricots and more, it is delightfully fresh and lively.  With only 10.5% alcohol, it also never seems heavy.  With warm days approaching, it’s very much a wine to open to toast the change of seasons. 88 Paul Lukacs Mar 8, 2011

S.A. Prum, Mosel (Germany) Riesling 'Essence' 2008 ($13, Palm Bay International): There are so many things to love about this wine I hardly know where to begin. So let's start with price. It's not going to set you back much despite very good quality. There is extremely good value here for wine lovers on a budget. Then's there's the 10.5 percent alcohol, which is extremely low. You could drink this wine all day. Finally, and most importantly, its a fresh, clean, juicy riesling that's fruity yet bone dry. Lovely aromas of apricot and stone fruits about, the acidity is zingy and will stand up to spicy cuisine, and there's enough minerality to complement raw shellfish such as oysters on the half shell and cherrystone clams. A best buy among best buys. 88 Robert Whitley Sep 1, 2009

S.A. Prum, Mosel (Germany) Riesling "Essence" 2008 ($12, Palm Bay International):  This is by no means an Important Riesling, but it is a delightful one.  It’s medium-dry and light-bodied, with only 10.5% alcohol.  Because of it slight, youthful CO2 spritz and crisp acidity, it is dry enough in the balance for confirmed dry wine drinkers to enjoy.  Its aromas and flavors are as minerally as they are fruity, and the fruity notes (lemon, grapefruit peel) are restrained.  This is a tremendously refreshing wine best served alone or as an aperitif with nibbles; it’s too light for most meals. 88 Mary Ewing-Mulligan Feb 16, 2010

Villa Huesgen, Mosel (Germany) Riesling “1735” 2016 ($20, Quintessential):  The problem with Riesling is the “S” word -- sweet.  I can’t remember the times people have told me they’d never order a Riesling because it’s sweet.  Well, some are and some aren’t.  Sadly, it’s hard to tell just from looking at the label because even some labeled “dry” aren’t.  This one is dry, with attractive simultaneous fruity and stony components.  Fresh and clean, it mineral-like austerity is not enamel-cleansing, which makes it a fine choice as an aperitif or with smoked salmon, for example, as a first course. 88 Michael Apstein Jan 2, 2018

Von Kesselstatt, Piesport (Mosel, Germany) Riesling Kabinett Goldtropfschen 2010 ($25, Valckenberg):  It’s hard to miss with the wines from Von Kesselstatt, one of the leading producers in the Mosel.   What’s amazing is how undervalued these wines remain.  Goldtropfschen is one of, if not the most, acclaimed vineyards in Piesport, probably the Mosel’s most famous town.  The wine is the epitome of the Mosel with a lacey white peach-like fruitiness buttressed by racy acidity and haunting minerality.  Have a glass—or two—before dinner and then with summer fare. It sings. 92 Michael Apstein Aug 9, 2011

Clemens Busch, Pündericher (Mosel, Germany) Riesling Marienberg Rothenpfad Grosses Gewächs 2014 ($42, Louis/Dressner Selections): This is a sensational dry Riesling with the racy elegance of the Mosel backed by a remarkably rich texture.  It is bold, racy, complex, layered and absolutely delicious.  The bouquet reveals green apple, lime, Meyer lemon and grapefruit tones enhanced by floral elements, a wet-stone freshness and lively ginger spice.  Although still youthful and tightly wound, the flavors are pure and concentrated with the luscious basket of fruits interwoven with the spice and floral nuances.  The purity and intensity of exquisitely crafted Riesling is on display here.  This rich, complex and dry Riesling will grow and improve for another decade and beyond.
95 Wayne Belding Jul 19, 2016

Weingut Clemens Busch, Pündericher Marienburg Grosses Gewächs (Mosel, Germany) Riesling Trocken 2015 ($50, Louis/Dressner Selections): The village of Pünderich is not often listed among the Mosel’s top winegrowing villages.  A look at the map, however, reveals it shares a similar, south-facing aspect with Erden, Ürzig and Piesport.  As consumers experience the scintillating wines of Clemens Busch, we are likely to hear more about Pünderich vineyards.  This is a pure, lively, intense and dry Riesling that exemplifies the racy elegance of the Mosel.  While still very youthful, it shows a delectable range of fruit, floral and spice nuances.  Fresh scents of green apple, lime, Meyer lemon and grapefruit are enhanced by floral elements, a wet-stone freshness and lively spice.  The flavors are pure and concentrated with the luscious apple and citrus fruits interwoven with the spice and floral nuances.  This lively, complex and dry Riesling will cellar well and improve for another decade.
94 Wayne Belding Apr 18, 2017

Weingut von Hövel, Saar (Mosel, Germany) Riesling Kabinett 2019 ($25, Schatzi Wines):  The 2019 Mosel Rieslings are exciting and delightful wines.  The vintage is marked by pure fruit of remarkable intensity and vibrant acidity.  The von Hövel estate has parcels in several vineyards in the Saar.  This wine is drawn from the Altenberg vineyard, which lies along a tributary of the Saar in the village of Krettnach.  You will delight in its aromas of green apple, lemon and tropical fruits interwoven with hints of white flowers and lemongrass.  As a classic Kabinett, it is made in an off-dry style, but the slight residual sugar is perfectly balanced by its electric acidity.  The sweet/tart interplay tantalizes the palate and gives the pure apple and citrus fruits a nearly crystalline quality.  It will be a fine match for your favorite Asian recipes or just by itself for its invigorating style.     
90 Wayne Belding Nov 9, 2021

Dr. Fischer, Saar Valley (Mosel, Germany) Riesling Qualitätswein Ockfener Bockstein 2011 ($14, Winesellers, Ltd.):  If you can find a stronger value in imported Riesling, please call me…collect.  This is a remarkably expressive wine with soaring aromas and vivid, persistent flavors recalling mandarin orange and baked apple.  There’s notable sweetness, but excellent balance thanks to energetic acidity that lifts and drives the finish, which is refreshing rather than cloying.  Marvelous as an aperitif or well suited to pairing with all manner of spicy foods, this is delicious now and sure to hold up for five years or longer.  Very impressive, and not just in relation to its price. 91 Michael Franz Oct 30, 2012

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Mosel-Saar-Ruwer:

Red:

Kurt Hain, Mosel-Saar-Ruwer (Germany) Riesling Kabinett Piesporter Goldtröpfchen 2006 ($20, Billington Wines): This delicious Riesling shows vivid fruit recalling mandarin oranges and fresh apricots, along with a very appealing mineral note and lots of lively acidity.  The component of citrus acidity lifts and brightens the finish without seeming overly tart, and it melds very nicely with the wine's light sweetness to create a balanced and harmonious overall impression. 90 Michael Franz May 19, 2009

White:

Dr. H. Thanisch, Mosel (Germany) Riesling "Classic" 2007 ($18, Winesellers, Ltd.): Full of fresh, vivid fruit notes recalling ripe apples, this wine offers just about as much primary fruit as a bottle can hold without seeming obvious.  An interesting mineral streak provides a complex background for the fruit, and crisp acidity freshens the flavors and effectively counterbalances the wine's subtle sweetness. 88 Michael Franz Apr 22, 2008

Loosen Bros., Mosel (Germany) “Dr. L” 2006 ($12, Country Vintner): Delicious in a straightforward way, this wine offers delicious fruit recalling apricots and apples, with fine balancing acidity and a nice little mineral tinge in the finish.  Lightly sweet, it will make an excellent aperitif or a successful partner for lightly spicy foods that are fairly delicate. 87 Michael Franz Mar 18, 2008

Egon Müller, Mosel-Saar-Ruwer (Germany) Riesling Kabinett Scharzhofberger 2007 ($50, Wildman): This gorgeous wine shows the potential greatness of Egon Müller Rieslings from the Scharzhofberger vineyard (one of the handful of top sites in all of Germany).  It combines wonderfully expressive aromatics (with notes of fresh fruits and flowers) with very flavorful fruit, light sweetness, vibrant acidity, and interesting mineral nuances.  Very expressive and complex, it is nevertheless almost ethereal in its lightness, showing great elegance from the first whiff right through the very long finish. 92 Michael Franz May 19, 2009

Struktur, Mosel-Saar-Ruwer (Germany) Riesling 2004 ($13, Precept Brands): On the steep, rocky slopes where the grapes for this Riesling grow, the ripening period for the off-dry Rieslings can last all the way into November, giving the fruit time to further synthesize its sugar and mineral content.  The wine is polished and delicate, with just the right amount of weight and sweetness on the palate.  The lush layers of fruit linger long on the palate. 92 Marguerite Thomas Jun 19, 2007

Studert-Prüm, Mosel-Saar-Ruwer (Germany) Riesling Kabinett Wehlener Sonnenuhr 2005 ($19, Winesellers, Ltd.): A marvelous wine, this really sings with very fresh fruit recalling nectarines and baking apples, with a little dash of lime in the finish.  The acidity is exceptionally well integrated, and fine mineral notes round this out.  It is an impressive accomplishment to achieve such intense of interplay between fruit and acidity and yet have the overall impression seem so balanced and integrated. 91 Michael Franz Jun 12, 2007

Studert-Prüm, Mosel-Saar-Ruwer (Germany) Riesling Spatlese Wehlener Sonnenuhr 2005 ($23, Winesellers, Ltd.): If this wine is paired with the right sorts of foods and if those to whom it is served are prepared for its sweetness, I cannot believe that anyone could fail to find it delicious.  Generously flavored with vivid fruit notes of baked apple, mandarin orange and mango, it is juicy and succulent but never cloying, as a bracing edge of acidity freshens and lifts the finish. 91 Michael Franz Jun 19, 2007

Vereinigte Hospitien, Mosel-Saar-Ruwer (Germany) Riesling Kabinett Serringer 2005 ($20, Winesellers, Ltd.): Light and fresh and full of flavor, but also with some real depth and power, this wine seems to have a bit of very ripe wine (Auslese or Beerenauslese?) blended in with the main lot of juice, as there is a honeyed, botrytis-laden streak that offers a fascinating counterpoint to the fresh, focused core.  A very impressive, serious Kabinett that can nevertheless be enjoyed without any serious effort. 91 Michael Franz Jun 12, 2007

Selbach, Mosel-Saar-Ruwer (Germany) Riesling "Dry" 2006 ($15, Terry Thiese Selection/ Michael Skurnik): The label declares that this crisp, refreshing wine will taste dry, and that's no lie.  It offers bright apple and peach flavors, but with barely a hint of sweet fruitiness, and finishes on an almost bracing note.  This is German Riesling for people who think they do not like German wines. 89 Paul Lukacs Sep 9, 2008

Slatestone, Mosel-Saar-Ruwer (Germany) Riesling 2007 ($16, Cellars International): This is a sumptuous example of Mosel Riesling, low in alcohol but high in refreshing flavor.  It tastes of peaches and apricots, with a steely backbone, and has plenty of 'lift' or freshness.  I can't imagine anything more enjoyable to sip on a deck or patio on a warm spring, or even better, hot summer evening. 89 Paul Lukacs Mar 10, 2009

Urban, Mosel-Saar-Ruwer (Germany) Riesling QbA Nik Weis Selection 2007 ($11, HB Wine Merchants): Nik Weiss, winemaker for St. Urbans-Hof, in the Mosel selected the grapes for this Riesling from vineyards not far from his estate in Leiwen, thus the Urban Riesling brand.  Urban Rieslings show the same care and attention as Weiss applies to his St. Urbans-Hof estate wines.  This lovely Riesling offers ripe floral aromas blended nicely with traces of straw and minerals.  The off-dry flavors are ripe, slightly tropical, balanced by crisp acidity, with a pleasant minerality.  It is very satisfying to see Riesling sales on the rise and this bargain Mosel Riesling is one of the reasons why. 89 Gerald D. Boyd Nov 4, 2008

Bollig-Lehnert, Mosel-Saar-Ruwer (Germany) Riesling Spätlese Halbtrocken Piesporter Goldtröpfchen 2005 ($20, Winesellers, Ltd.): Bright and crisp, with zesty fruit recalling baked green apples, this is balanced by just enough sweetness to keep it structured but not seem hard or angular.  Fine mineral complexities lend interest to the finish, which is focused and impressively long and integrated. 88 Michael Franz Jun 12, 2007

Bollig-Lehnert, Mosel-Saar-Ruwer (Germany) Riesling Kabinett Piesporter Goldtröpfchen 2006 ($17, Winesellers, Ltd.): With aromatic and flavor complexity that is already worth more than the asking price of this wine, it then over-delivers with interesting structural interplay, as crackly acidity and a faint frizzante prickle provide definition to the long, lovely finish. 88 Michael Franz Jun 19, 2007

Dr. Pauly Bergweiler, Mosel-Saar-Ruwer (Germany) Riesling “Noble House” 2006 ($12, Winesellers, Ltd.): Delivering lots of fresh flavor with only 9% alcohol, this is a terrific candidate for spring and summer sipping.  Lightly sweet but balanced by zesty acidity, it offers delicious fruit recalling mango and baked apple that is lifted by a dash of citrus in the finish.  The fruit, sweetness and acidity are very well integrated, and a hint of minerality in the finish lends an extra touch of class. 88 Michael Franz Mar 18, 2008

Dr. H. Thanisch Meuller-Burggraef, Mosel-Saar-Ruwer (Germany) Riesling "Classic" 2006 ($17, Winesellers, Ltd.): Very fresh and quite broadly useful, this Riesling shows just a faint hint of sweetness, and that hint is effectively counterbalanced by zesty acidity.  Crisp fruit recalls green apples and ripe tangerines, with a mineral accent that lends interest to the finish. 87 Michael Franz Jun 19, 2007

Selbach, Mosel-Saar-Ruwer (Germany) Riesling Kabinett 2006 ($16, Terry Thiese Selection/ Michael Skurnik): Soft and sweet, this wine excites at first because the fruit flavors seem so sumptuous.  The thrill fades, however, when the expected tang of acidity fails to arrive, leaving the wine to finish without clear focus. 85 Paul Lukacs Sep 9, 2008

Peter Lauer, Saar (Germany) Riesling “Kern” Fass 9 2009 ($45, Mosel Wine Merchant):  Lauer calls this wine "the fruit bomb of our collection."  Kern is a parcel from a very warm part of the Ayler Kupp vineyard, though the nights are still quite cool, giving it both intense fruit and ripping acidity.  This just blasts you with passion fruit, wild strawberries and rose jam.  There's some earth and floral notes on the nose, but Lauer's not off-base in his description.  There's 45 g/L of residual sugar but it doesn't taste anywhere near that sweet.  10% alcohol. 97 W. Blake Gray Nov 16, 2010

Bischofliche Weinguter Trier, Saar (Mosel-Saar-Ruwer, Germany) Riesling Kabinett Ayler Kupp 2018 ($23):  Here is a very serious sweet Riesling with beautifully balanced aromas and flavors of pear and peach that are intertwined with wet stone minerality.  It starts pretty and finishes strong, with a lingering integrated fruit and spice impression that hangs intriguingly.  You won’t tire of this even at its five plus percent residual sugar – it’s got the backbone to carry it off.  A Platinum Award winner at the 2020 Sommelier Challenge International Wine & Spirits Competition.    
95 Rich Cook Sep 15, 2020

Schloss Saarstein, Saar (Germany) Riesling Serrig Schloss Saarsteiner Kabinett 2010 ($26, Valckenberg):  The vineyard, Schloss Saarstein, is located in the village of Serrig in the Saar Valley and is owned exclusively (a monopole) by Schloss Saarstein.  Hence, there is confusion since the producer and the vineyard have the same name.  However, let there be no confusion about the quality of the wine.  When tasting through a line-up of Rieslings, my comment when I came to this one was, “oh my, this is good!”  It’s ripe, almost a Spätlese quality, but has enlivening piercing acidity, giving it impeccable balance. The wine conveys minerality intertwined with hints of white flowers.  You can almost feel the slate-based soil.  One of the lovely aspects of this quality German wine is that you can savor it now or cellar it.  The acidity will keep it fresh for a decade or two while alluring mature flavors emerge. 93 Michael Apstein Aug 16, 2011

Peter Lauer, Saar (Germany) Riesling “Schon Fels” Fass 11 2009 ($60):  Here's a very limited-production wine with a great story, but you can buy it in only one wine shop in the US -- Crush, in New York City.  The Schon Fels vineyard is now considered part of Ayler Kupp vineyard, which is why it's in quotes on the label; Lauer uses it as the brand name.  The site is extremely steep even by German standards, so machine harvesting is impossible.  This led to it being abandoned for 10 years.  Lauer pruned the 120-year-old vines to the trunk and they came back to producing grapes, but just barely -- the yield is only 4 or 5 grapes per vine.  The first vintage was 2008; this is the second.  It's quite floral on the nose, with strong jasmine notes, green plum and apricot.  It's much fruitier on the palate, leading with chunky apricot flavors and some tangerine and an elegant finish.  12.5% alcohol. 92 W. Blake Gray Nov 16, 2010

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Nahe:

White:

Weingut Korrell, Nahe (Germany) Riesling Trocken Von Den Ersten Lagen 2022 ($34, Veritable Wines & Estates):  With sharp, lightning-like acidity (sky high even for Riesling), Weingut Korrell’s Ersten Lagen Riesling Trocken leaves you waiting for a thunderclap.  Sourced from “First Growth” vineyards, the wine is stark and powerful, verging on austere, but maintains balance with a mixture of fruit, florality, and minerality: delicate notes of white flowers, lemon grass, lime, peach, river rocks and petrol all come through.   This wine will hold up to even the fattiest of foods — think pâté.  Indulge and enjoy!      
93 John McDermott Oct 10, 2023

Bex, Nahe (Germany) Riesling 2016 ($11):  This fresh, fruity, mineral-tinged Riesling is so much better than most $11 wines from around the world that if it came to a fight, the referee would need to step in to stop the beating.  Juicy fruit notes and slatey minerality ride in tandem from the first whiff to the last signal from the wine’s finish.  This is lightly sweet, but the acid balance is so good that few tasters would remark on that even if they don’t usually care for sweet wines, making this a great choice for a warm weather party.  A Platinum Award winner at the 2018 San Diego International Wine & Spirits Challenge. 
92 Michael Franz Mar 27, 2018

Dönnhoff, Nahe (Germany) Grauburgunder Trocken 2021 ($29, Skurnik Wines & Spirits):  Dönnhoff’s 2021 Grauburgunder (also known as Pinot Gris) presents with a wonderfully potent bouquet of pineapples, mangoes, and an intoxicating creamy, vanilla note.  On the palate, the wine mirrors the nose with tropical creamy notes dominating and fading to a bitter, zesty lemon rind note.  This wine is simply bursting with flavor.  With moderate acidity, it is a joy to drink on its own, and would pair well leaner fare.        
92 John McDermott Jan 9, 2024

Emrich-Schonleber, Nahe (Germany) Riesling Trocken “Mineral” 2021 ($35, vom Boden):  Emrich-Schonleber's 2021 “Mineral” is a complex and deeply refreshing dry Riesling that lives up to its name with an expressive nose redolent of granite and crushed stone.  The mineral character carries over to the palate, where the mineral notes intermingle with fresh white peach, kiwi, lime juice, and honeysuckle flavors.  This flaunts mouthwatering acidity and high-toned energy.  It's hard not to drink this all now, but this has excellent aging potential.        
92 Miranda Franco Oct 18, 2022

Kruger-Rumpf, Nahe (Germany) Riesling Trocken Estate 2021 ($20, Skurnik Wines):  I could wax rhapsodic for days about delicious, dry, and inexpensive German Rieslings.  A mere Andrew Jackson ($20) can get you Kruger-Rumpf’s 2021 lively, mouthwateringly dry, and incredibly easy-to-drink Estate Trocken Riesling.  It is chock full of everything you could desire on a hot summer day — crystalline minerality, citrus-drenched stone fruit, and thirst-quenching acidity.  This is drinking superbly right now, so there is no need to hold off.             
92 Miranda Franco Aug 8, 2023

Dönnhoff, Nahe (Germany) Riesling Estate 2022 ($24):  This is an exciting harbinger of wines to come from the 2022 harvest in Germany from one of the top estates in the Nahe.  The nose reveals vibrant fruit aromas of lemon, green apple and pineapple with hints of flowers, ginger and mint.  The flavors are pure and invigorating.  The apple, citrus and tropical fruit elements are underlain by the enchanting gingery spice plus subtle floral and herb hints and a touch of honey.  Made in an off-dry style, the balance is perfect and the finish is long.  The purity and depth of flavor is emblematic of Dönnhoff’s style.   
91 Wayne Belding Oct 17, 2023

Kruger-Rumpf, Nahe (Germany) Dry Riesling 2013 ($20): This is an exciting harbinger of wines to come from the 2013 harvest in Germany.  The nose reveals vibrant fruit aromas of lemon, green apple and pineapple with hints of violets, ginger and mint.  The flavors are pure and invigorating -- electric in their vitality.  The apple, citrus and tropical fruit elements are underlain by the enchanting gingery spice plus subtle floral and herb hints.  The texture is rich and the finish is long.  The purity and depth of flavor is emblematic of the 2013 vintage.  Riesling lovers will revel in the bounty of this harvest.
91 Wayne Belding Aug 19, 2014

Weingut Hexamer, Nahe (Germany) Grauburgunder “Vom Porphyr” Trocken 2015 ($25, Skurnik Wines):  Mineral-rich, with stony notes, firm acidity, and a creamy finish, this a wine for people who love idiosyncratic dry whites.  It tastes both unusual and delicious. 
91 Paul Lukacs Apr 17, 2018

Weingut Korrell, Nahe (Germany) Riesling Trocken 2022 ($23, Veritable Wines & Estates):  Floral and fruited on the nose, Weingut Korrell’s Riesling Trocken shows intricate aromas of wildflowers, honeysuckle, apricot, and ripe peach.  On the palate, the wine is more linear.  Stainless steel winemaking highlights the wine’s lemony citrus notes and acidity.  This classic Riesling represents a fantastic value.  Pair with a beurre blanc sauce over a meatier white fish, such as sea bass, and watch this wine shine.   
91 John McDermott Oct 10, 2023

Bex, Nahe (Germany) Riesling 2011 ($11): A delightful wine that requires nothing more than you enjoy it. It’s bright, refreshing and slightly sweet with zingy acidity that clears the palate. Riesling’s lovely floral aromas are on parade with plenty of apple and peach fruit and less than 10% alcohol. Great for sipping by the pool or with your favorite Asian take out.
88 Rebecca Murphy Apr 16, 2013

Two Princes, Nahe (Germany) Riesling 2010 ($14, Valckenberg):  Some German producers, responding to the criticism that their labels are too detailed and confusing, have simplified them. This label just tells us that it’s a Riesling from somewhere in the Nahe, a less well-known region that geographically lies just west of the Rheinhessen.  Characteristic of a Rhine wine compared to one from the Mosel, it is riper and a tad sweeter, with slightly earthier flavors.   Zingy acidity balances the elements and holds them all together, making this breezy wine a good choice as an aperitif or with spicy fare. 88 Michael Apstein Aug 23, 2011

Paul Anheuser, Nahe (Germany) Pinot Blanc 2006 ($13, Winesellers, Ltd.): Although I doubt that most consumers would anticipate getting a seriously sweet wine when buying Pinot Blanc, this is nevertheless a very tasty drink at a very attractive price.  Essentially as sweet in impression as a Spätlese, with flavors of very ripe baked apples, this is delicious but confining in its sweetness, and would best be used as a wine to sip after dinner with some fresh fruit. 86 Michael Franz Jun 24, 2008

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Pfalz:

Red:

Darting, Pfalz (Germany) Pinot Meunier Dürkeimer Feurberg Trocken 2016 ($17, Skurnik Wines):  This pale red wine has gentle fruit flavors with a dollop of oak spicing things up a little.  Only natural yeasts were used in producing the wine, and it was fermented in large oak casks that were locally sourced and made.  While Pinot Meunier is usually seen as one of the three grapes used to produce Champagne (along with Pinot Noir and Chardonnay), Darting proves that it can also stand on its own.  This is a subtle and elegant wine that partners well with lamb chops, chicken thighs, or duck. 
91 Marguerite Thomas Feb 11, 2020

August Kesseler, Pfalz (Germany) Spätburgunder "Pinot N" 2010 ($20, Vineyard Brands): I showed this wine to an advanced group of wine students in a class on top red wines for summer, and it was the consensus favorite (in this practical context) out of a strong field of 13 contenders.  It is conspicuously thin and pale in color and notably light in body, but those characteristics don’t detract from its performance in the slightest.  It remains delicate in all respects through the remarkably persistent finish, but along the way it shows surprisingly expressive aromas and flavors that are almost uncanny in relation to the wine’s very modest weight.  Acidity and tannin are nicely proportioned and very well integrated with the wine’s fruit, and there are simply no overt wood notes to get in the way.  This is manifestly a wine that was made to charm rather than impress, and it proves strikingly successful.
90 Michael Franz Jul 9, 2013

Fitz, Pfalz (Germany) Riesling Sekt Extra Trocken NV ($20, Winesellers, Ltd.):  Riesling Sekt is among the world’s most polarizing sparklers, as the grape’s inherent fruitiness and floral aromas are at odds with the expectations of those accustomed to the understated fruit and overstated yeast notes of Champagne-style sparkling wines.  However, if you can set your preconceptions off to the side long enough to give this wine a fair chance over a few sips, you’ll almost certainly find it endearing.  The aromas and flavors are all about fresh ripe peaches, with lots of foamy bubbles providing lift and fresh acidity providing cut and clarity to the finish.  Whereas you’d be wise to lay down non-vintage Champagne for a year before opening it, you should pop this soon to enjoy its freshness, which is its primary virtue. 90 Michael Franz Sep 21, 2010

Kesseler, Pfalz (Germany) Pinot Noir 2012 ($25, Vineyard Brands): The best Kesseler Pinot Noir I’ve tasted, this wine is light and lively.  It offers plenty of bright cherry flavor, a hint of earthiness, and a seductive floral perfume.  Legitimately dry, it will pair well with dishes that themselves are quite light -- simply prepared fish fillets, for example. 
90 Paul Lukacs Apr 28, 2015

August Kesseler, Pfalz (Germany) Spätburgunder “Pinot P" 2010 ($24, Vineyard Brands): An odd but delicious wine, made from Pinot Noir (Spätburgunder in German), its flavors more closely resemble Gamay while its silky texture and finesse-filled finish combine to deliver legitimate varietal character.  A light-bodied, quite elegant wine, you can serve it slightly chilled, as it is the rare red wine that can stand up to American summer heat and humidity.
89 Paul Lukacs Jul 9, 2013

Prost, Pfalz (Germany) Pinot Noir 2022 ($18, German Wine Collection):  We sometimes talk about “quaffing wines,” and in my memory bank I use as a baseline drinking and chatting outside a Madrid café on a sunny afternoon and, before we know it, that carafe or bottle of light red wine has been drained.  Quaffing a wine is like downing gulps of your favorite soft drink or Gatorade after a long run.  Which is both the attraction and the deficit of this bottle.  It is an excellent, simple quaff – light in color and flavors, almost watery, but the flavor is that of a fresh, red, slightly tart cherry that slides down easy, like a bluepoint oyster.  The label says 12.5% alcohol, but I think that may be over-reaching.        
87 Roger Morris Jan 30, 2024

Rosé:

Reichsrat von Buhl, Pfalz (Germany) Spätburgunder Rosé Trocken 2015 ($18, Rudi Wiest): This dry rosé made from Pinot Noir (Spätburgunder in German) provides absolutely scintillating refreshment!  It is a juicy and bright rosé that offers a great deal of tasting pleasure.  The aromas are forward and enticing, with ripe cherry, strawberry and cranberry notes backed by hints of flowers, orange peel and spice.  Lively and fresh on the palate, its zesty cherry and strawberry flavors are supported by the orange zest and spice tones.  It’s a marvelous wine to enjoy on its own, but has enough body to serve with salmon or warm weather fare off the grill.
90 Wayne Belding Aug 23, 2016

Villa Wolf, Pfalz (Germany) Pinot Noir Rosé 2011 ($12, Loosen Bros. USA):  A delicate, almost ethereal rosé, with subtle cherry and red berry fruit flavors and a clean, zesty finish. A difficult wine to pair with food due to its delicacy, it should provide very pleasant sipping as an aperitif on deck or patio this summer. 87 Paul Lukacs May 21, 2013

Sparkling:

Weingut von Winning, Pfalz (Germany) Riesling Extra Brut NV ($30, Skurnik Wines & Spirits):  As an alternative to Champagne, seek out German Sekt.  Sekt is the term used for sparkling wines in Germany and Austria.  Germans are the largest consumers of sparkling wine in the world.  The country’s enthusiasm for bubbles is increasingly focused on high-quality production.  German sparkling (arguably) has a leg up on Champagne because the price point is still approachable.  This NV Riesling Extra Brut is a stellar production from Weingut Von Winning.  The Riesling Sekt showcases a vibrant and refreshing character upon the first sip.  The effervescence provides a lively and crisp texture on the palate.  Aromas and flavors of green and yellow apple, yellow peach, white flowers, crushed rocks, and a hint of hazelnut carry through to the finish.  It combines the lively effervescence of a well-crafted Sekt with the Riesling varietal's signature fruitiness and floral notes.          
91 Miranda Franco Feb 6, 2024

White:

Müller-Catoir, Pfalz (Germany) Riesling Gimmeldingen 2009 ($28, Michael Skurnik Wines):  This perfectly proportioned wine is lovely now and probably will drink well for years.  The aromas are of a lazy summer day: hay, lime, apple cake, white flowers.  But on the palate, it's taut, with lime fruit and minerality, and some apple cake on the finish.  Complex and elegant; great value for this quality.  12.5% alcohol. 95 W. Blake Gray Nov 23, 2010

Ökonomierat Rebholz, Pfalz (Germany) Weisser Burgunder Im Sonnenschein Grosses Gewächs 2019 ($110, Adventures in Wine and others):  The Rebholz Estate creates some of the best Pfalz wines.  Their 2019 Im Sonnenschein Grosses Gewächs Weisser Burgunder is outstanding in every way.  Weisser Burgunder, a.k.a. Weissburgunder, a.k.a. Clevner, a.k.a. Pinot Bianco, et. al. is most commonly known as the Pinot Blanc grape.  In 1971, a new German Wine Law consolidated vineyard names throughout the country, sweeping away thousands of local vineyard names under a new hierarchy of a mere 2,600 or so.  Thus, the many vineyard names in Siebeldingen all became Im Sonnenschein, despite clear differences in soil types and other aspects.  The Rebholz Weisser Burgunder GG comes from a site with limestone-based soil known as Berg prior to 1971.  It is a wonderful expression of Pfalz style.  The bouquet is expressive and complex with lemon, pear, peach and tropical fruit scents interwoven with elements of flowers, almond and subtle spices.  On the palate, it shows pure flavors of lemon zest, ripe pear and guava underlain by a silky texture and hints of honey, nuts and subtle herbs.  The finish is minerally-fresh, dry and long.  This is as good as Pinot Blanc gets.       
95 Wayne Belding Mar 1, 2022

Pfeffingen, Pfalz (German) Riesling Ungsteiner Herrenberg Grosses Gewächs 2013 ($42, Rudi Wiest): This is a sensational dry Riesling!  It is bold, racy, complex, layered and absolutely delicious.  The bouquet reveals ripe apple, peach, apricot, Meyer lemon and guava fruit tones enhanced by floral elements, nutmeg and ginger spice.  Although still youthful and tightly wound, the flavors are full and concentrated with the luscious basket of fruits underlain by the spice and floral nuances.  The texture is rich and the finish is long and intriguing.  The purity and intensity of the 2013 vintage is on display here.  This rich, complex and dry Riesling will grow and improve for another decade and beyond.
95 Wayne Belding Sep 16, 2014

von Winning, Pfalz (Germany) Riesling Forster Ungeheuer Grosses Gewächs 2017 ($54, Terry Thiese Selection):  The Grosses Gewächs designation is reserved for the greatest vineyard sites in Germany, and the 2017 von Winning bottling from the Ungeheuer vineyard in Forst shows the depth and power one hopes for.  This is a sensational dry Riesling!  It is bold, racy, complex, layered and absolutely delicious.  The bouquet reveals ripe apple, peach, apricot, papaya and pineapple fruit tones enhanced by floral elements and allspice hints.  Although still youthful, the flavors are rich and concentrated with the luscious basket of tree and tropical fruits interwoven with the spice and floral nuances.  The purity, intensity and rich texture of the von Winning style is clearly evident here.  This layered, complex and dry Riesling will develop and improve for another decade and beyond.   
95 Wayne Belding Aug 25, 2020

Müller-Catoir, Pfalz (Germany) Riesling Breumel in den Mauern GG 2009 ($67, Michael Skurnik Wines):  Initially taut, this has the most noticeable acidity of the Müller-Catoir wines, but still is nowhere near as taut as dry wines from the Mosel.  The flavors are restrained lime pith with a hint of violet, but the expressive nose of violet, lime pith, guava skin and bergamot promises more in the future.  The mouthfeel is generous without being fat.  Very promising; wait for it.  13% alcohol. 94 W. Blake Gray Nov 23, 2010

Ökonomierat Rebholz, Pfalz (Germany) Pinot Blanc Im Sonnenschein Grosses Gewächs 2016 ($80, Rudi Wiest):  The Rebholz Estate creates some of the best Pfalz wines.  Their 2016 Im Sonnenschein Pinot Blanc sets a new standard for this oft-overlooked grape.  It is a wonderful expression of Pfalz style.  The bouquet is expressive and complex with vivid lemon, pear and peach fruit scents interwoven with elements of flowers, almond and subtle spices.  On the palate, it shows pure flavors of lemon zest and ripe pear underlain by a silky texture and hints of honey, smoke and herbs.  The finish is minerally-fresh, dry and long.  This is exciting Pinot Blanc that will cellar well for another 10 to 12 years.  
94 Wayne Belding Jul 2, 2019

von Winning, Pfalz (Germany) Riesling Forster Ungeheuer Grosses Gewächs 2020 ($72, Terry Thiese Selection):  The Grosses Gewächs designation is reserved for the finest vineyard sites in Germany, and the 2020 von Winning bottling from the Ungeheuer vineyard in Forst shows the depth and power one hopes for.  This is a fabulous dry Riesling!  It is bold, racy, complex, layered and absolutely delicious.  Von Winning ages their Grosses Gewächs wines in oak, and the subtle wood influence is evident here.  The bouquet reveals ripe peach, apricot, apple, papaya and pineapple fruit tones enhanced by floral elements and baking spice hints.  Although still youthful, the flavors are rich and concentrated with the luscious basket of apple and tropical fruits interwoven with the spice and floral nuances.  The purity, intensity and rich texture of the von Winning style is on display in this wine.  This layered, complex and dry Riesling will grow and improve for another decade and beyond.      
94 Wayne Belding Sep 20, 2022

Von Winning, Pfalz (Germany) Riesling Trocken Kalkofen 1v Deidesheimer GG 2009 ($70, Michael Skurnik Wines):  From a grand cru vineyard, this wine opens with ripe mango and jasmine, along with some white stone, before finishing with fresh lime.  It smells and tastes very fresh; its aroma has a note like sticking your face into a just-picked head of lettuce.  Only 5 g/L of residual sugar, but there is the slightest hint of sweetness on the finish.  13% alcohol. 94 W. Blake Gray Nov 30, 2010

A. Christmann, Pfalz (Germany) Riesling Trocken Idig "Grosss Gewächs" 2011 ($42): This is a stop-you-in-your-tracks dry Riesling that features alluring floral aromas and absolutely delicious fruit recalling mandarin oranges and ripe tangerines.  Although it is very dry in analytical terms, with just 1.8 grams per liter of residual sugar, it is very generous in flavor and texture, demonstrating the falsity of the prejudice that dry Rieslings from Germany must be austere and hard.  Perfectly integrated acidity lends focus and freshness to the fruit, which is wonderfully balanced with mineral notes in the very persistent finish. 93 Michael Franz Jul 30, 2013

Knipser, Pfalz (Germany) Riesling Trocken Lammersheim GG 1v 2009 ($45, Magellan Wine Imports):  Steinbuckel is a portion of the Grand Cru (GG) Lammersheim vineyard, which got its name in 1345.  The wine shows why the vineyard has been prized for 650 years; it's expressive wine with excellent structure, opening with lime and guava and nice notes of minerality.  The finish is gradual and elegant.  12.5% alcohol.
93 W. Blake Gray Nov 16, 2010

Knipser, Pfalz (Germany) Riesling Spätlese Trocken “Halbstück Reserve” 2004 ($38, Magellan Wine Imports):  It's hard to believe that a 2004 Riesling is a current release, but the wine definitely rewards the wait and, considering the cost of warehousing, is fantastic value.  It still tastes of primary flavors, though it's much more floral than fruity -- jasmine, rose petal and bergamot outweigh guava and lime.  The mouthfeel has quite a bit of viscosity; it's slippery and lingering.  12% alcohol.
93 W. Blake Gray Nov 16, 2010

von Winning, Pfalz (Germany) Riesling Trocken Deidesheimer Paradiesgarten 2012 ($35, Skurnik): The glory of fine Riesling is beautifully expressed in this bottle.  Bold scents of apple, lemon, peach and pineapple enchant at the nose along with hints of white flowers, ginger and allspice.  The flavors are luscious and multilayered.  A cascade of citrus and tropical fruits is underscored by the floral, honey and spice elements.  The texture is rich and full, making this a wine to pair with full flavored recipes of all sorts -- from salmon to poultry to pork and beyond.  Delicious now for its powerful fruit expression, it will grow and improve for another decade.
93 Wayne Belding Sep 9, 2014

A. Christmann, Pfalz (Germany) Riesling Trocken Königsbach “Idig” GG 2008 ($74, Domaine Select):  This wine from the grand cru Idig vineyard smells like chunky orange marmalade with notes of rose petal, clay and anise.  The initial taste of bright tangerine lingers for a while, joined by scratchy white stone minerality and a hint of rose petal.  Lovely and elegant.  13% alcohol. 92 W. Blake Gray Nov 23, 2010

Bassermann-Jordan, Pfalz (Germany) Riesling Trocken 2008 ($17, Valkenberg):  Coherent and completely convincing even with a dry finish, this is an exemplary Riesling Trocken.  The floral aromatics are extremely expressive, followed by terrific fruit flavors recalling ripe peaches and fresh tangerines.  A shot of lime acidity in the finish is bracing and refreshing, and the acidic edge totally neutralizes and balances the impression of sweetness expressed by the floral aromas and ripe fruit flavors.  A terrific wine. 92 Michael Franz Dec 8, 2009

Dr. Deinhard, Pfalz (Germany) Riesling Spätlese Trocken Deidesheimer Grainhübel 2009 ($28, Michael Skurnik Wines):  The winery claims this wine won best white wine in all of Germany in 2010 from the country's biggest wine competition, Mundus VIni.  With a recommendation like that, what's not to like?  Favors of golden apple, expansive but not rich, with cinnamon and jasmine on the midpalate and some earth on the finish.  Best wine in Germany, I don't know, but it's a good wine and good value.  12.5% alcohol. 92 W. Blake Gray Nov 30, 2010

Eugen Müller, Pfalz (Germany) Riesling Kabinett “Vom Basalt” 2019 ($21, Terry Thiese Selection):  This is pure and fine Riesling at a very affordable price.  The Vom Basalt designation refers to its vineyard origin in the Pechstein vineyard of Forst.  The Pechstein (pitchstone) is noted for the prevalence of dark volcanic basalt in the soil.  Eugen Müller has crafted an excellent Riesling in a classic Kabinett style.  At the nose, it offers bright scents of red apple, lemon, peach and pineapple bolstered by hints of flowers, ginger and spice.  The flavors offer a veritable fruit basket – layers of juicy and luscious citrus, stone and tropical fruits.  The opulent fruits are underscored by the floral, honey and spice elements.  Its pure and zesty, off-dry style makes this a wine to pair with a wide range of recipes – from Japanese and Thai seafood recipes to grilled sausages and beyond.     
92 Wayne Belding May 25, 2021

Müller-Catoir, Pfalz (Germany) Muskateller Trocken Haardt 2013 ($25, Skurnik): The Muscat grape vinified in a dry style delivers a beautiful combination of aromas and flavors.  The 2013 Haardt Muskateller Trocken from Müller-Catoir offers a profound bouquet of peach, apricot, gardenia, lime and subtle green herbs.  The flavors are pure, intense and lively with the citrus and peach fruits enhanced by the floral and herb components.  Lusciously layered and long on the palate, this is one of the world’s great dry Muscat bottlings.
92 Wayne Belding Sep 9, 2014

Ökonomierat Rebholz, Pfalz (Germany) Riesling Estate 2013 ($24, Rudi Wiest): The Rebholz Estate creates some of the best Pfalz wines.  Their 2013 Estate Riesling is a wonderful rendition of the rich, powerful Pfalz style.  The bouquet is expressive and enticing with vivid lemon, apple and peach fruit scents interwoven with elements of wildflowers, subtle herbs and spices.  On the palate, it shows pure flavors of lemon and green apple backed by a rich texture and stony minerality.  The herbal and spice nuances infuse the fruit elements and result in a delicious and complex whole.  This is exciting Riesling that will cellar well for another 6 to 10 years.
92 Wayne Belding Nov 4, 2014

Ökonomierat Rebholz, Pfalz (Germany) Riesling Trocken 2020 ($24, Field Blend Selections):  The Rebholz Estate creates some of the best Pfalz wines.  Located at the foot of the Haardt Mountains in Siebedingen, the Rebholz family has been producing wines for over 300 years.  Their 2020 Riesling Trocken is a wonderful expression of Pfalz style.  The bouquet is pure and enticing with vivid lemon, apple and peach fruit scents interwoven with elements of wildflowers, subtle herbs and spices.  On the palate, it shows flavors of lemon, green apple and tropical fruits backed by a rich texture and stony minerality.  The herb and spice nuances infuse the fruit elements and result in a delicious and complex whole that will provide great enjoyment for another few years.        
92 Wayne Belding Aug 8, 2023

von Winning, Pfalz (Germany) Riesling Trocken Deidesheimer Paradiesgarten 2017 ($34, Skurnik Wines):  The glory of fine Riesling is beautifully expressed in this bottle from the village of Deiedeheim in the Pfalz.  Bold scents of apple, lemon, peach and tropical fruit enchant at the nose along with hints of fresh flowers, ginger and allspice.  The flavors are luscious and multilayered.  A cascade of apple, pineapple and peach fruits are underscored by the floral, honey and spice elements.  The texture is rich and full, making this a wine to pair with full flavored recipes of all sorts -- from salmon to poultry to pork and beyond.  Delicious now for its powerful fruit expression and layered flavors, it will grow and improve for another decade.  
92 Wayne Belding Sep 3, 2019

A. Christmann, Pfalz (Germany) Riesling Trocken Königsbach SC 2009 ($74, Domaine Select):  SC means "special selection" of younger vines from the grand cru Idig Vineyard.  The younger vines are apparently more straightforward, as this wine leads with limestone that segues into tangerine; floral notes highlight the background.  It's taut and might reward a few years in the cellar.  13% alcohol. 91 W. Blake Gray Nov 23, 2010

A. Christmann, Pfalz (Germany) Riesling Trocken Königsbach “Idig” GG 2007 ($74, Domaine Select):  From the grand cru Idig vineyard, this elegant wine opens with lime and folds gradually into jasmine and lime pith, with limestone notes in the background.  Finishes pretty and floral.  13% alcohol. 91 W. Blake Gray Nov 23, 2010

Darting, Pfalz (Germany) Riesling Kabinett Dürkheimer Nonnengarten 2015 ($17, Terry Thiese Selection): This is amazingly fine Riesling at a very affordable price. Sold in a one-liter format, it’s a bargain worth seeking out.  At the nose, it offers bright scents of apple, lemon, peach and pineapple bolstered by hints of fruit blossoms, ginger and spice.  The flavors are juicy, luscious and multilayered.  The citrus and tropical fruits are underscored by the floral, honey and spice elements.  Its pure and zesty, off-dry style makes this a wine to pair with a wide range of recipes – from Japanese and Thai seafood recipes to grilled sausages and beyond.  Delicious now for its vibrant, fresh fruit, it will provide delicious drinking for another year and more.
91 Wayne Belding Nov 8, 2016

Knipser, Pfalz (Germany) Riesling Spätlese Trocken “Kalkmergel” 2009 ($40, Magellan Wine Imports):  Knipser makes all kinds of wine in its warm part of the Pfalz, including quite good Chardonnay and Pinot Noir.  But the Riesling is the best, as expected.  "Kalkmergel" is the type of soil; this is a vineyard blend of grapes grown on it.  The aromas are of bergamot and green plum.  It spreads on the palate, opening with green plum and green apple and eventually adding some white nectarine.  Good structure and a broad finish.  12% alcohol. 91 W. Blake Gray Nov 16, 2010

Müller-Catoir, Pfalz (Germany) Riesling Spätlese Trocken Bürgergarten 2009 ($43, Michael Skurnik Wines):  Channeling my inner Wine X, this wine is an angular woman who wears only white.  It's very focused and austere, with lime pith, green apple and some white flowers and stones in the aroma.  From a 100% sandstone vineyard.  13% alcohol. 91 W. Blake Gray Nov 23, 2010

Villa Wolf, Pfalz (Germany) Pinot Gris 2018 ($0, Loosen Brothers USA):  Dry and pleasantly ample on the palate, with fresh fruit and a crisp finish, Villa Wolf’s Pinot Gris is a delight to drink on its own or to pair with food.  The wine was fermented in stainless steel, neutral oak casks and concrete, with the different batches then combined before being bottled.  The relatively low alcohol content (12.5%) is another plus here.    
91 Marguerite Thomas Jun 30, 2020

A. Christmann, Pfalz (Germany) Riesling Trocken 2009 ($19, Domaine Select):  This wine opens quite fruity, with tangerine and lime flavors that are promptly washed away by a river of white stones down the center of the tongue.  11.5% alcohol. 90 W. Blake Gray Nov 23, 2010

August Kesseler, Pfalz (Germany) Riesling Kabinett 2012 ($18, Vineyard Brands): A whiff of sensuality wafting up from the glass is the introduction to this utterly satisfying wine. Buoyant, with sweet hints of Honeycrisp apples among its panoply of fruit flavors, plus a texture that is both tantalizingly elusive and all encompassing, it’s a wine to be first rolled around on the tongue, swallowed, savored, and then followed by a brief prayer of gratitude for such deliciousness.
90 Marguerite Thomas Dec 3, 2013

August Kesseler, Pfalz (Germany) Riesling Kabinett 2014 ($18, Vineyard Brands): Low in alcohol (just 10%), this peachy Riesling offers medium-sweet flavors with sufficient acidity for balance and structure. Coming from a relatively warm growing region (warm, that is, for Germany), it has a soft, almost lush texture, yet still provides plenty of refreshing flavor, with nothing remotely cloying about it. 90 Paul Lukacs Apr 12, 2016

Dr. von Basserman-Jordan, Pfalz (Germany) Riesling 2018 ($19, Banville Wine Merchants):  This is a fine Riesling from a historic property.  The Dr. von Basserman-Jordan estate encompasses many top vineyards in the Pfalz.  Their 2018 Pfalz Riesling is crafted in a classic Kabinett style and gives lots of drinking pleasure.  At the nose, it offers bright scents of apple, lemon, pear and pineapple bolstered by hints of flowers, ginger and spice.  The flavors are juicy, luscious and layered.  The citrus and tropical fruits are underscored by the floral, pear and spice elements.  It has a  pure, zesty, off-dry style, making this a wine to pair with a wide range of recipes – from Japanese and Thai seafood recipes to grilled sausages and beyond.  Delicious now for its vibrant, fresh fruit, it will provide delicious drinking for another 2 to 3 years.       
90 Wayne Belding Apr 6, 2021

Müller-Catoir, Pfalz (Germany) Riesling 2009 ($21):  This wine smells very green and fresh, like green plum, lime and green papaya.  It's well-balanced, focused and thirst-quenching, with the lime and green papaya flavors given lift by cinnamon spice.  11.5% alcohol. 90 W. Blake Gray Nov 23, 2010

Villa Wolf, Pfalz (Germany) Riesling 2018 ($12, Loosen Bros.):  Fermented and matured in stainless steel tanks, this medium-dry Riesling is crisp and minerally, offering peach and citrus flavors followed by a clean and satisfying finish.  Founded in 1756, the Wolf estate continues to impress with pleasing yet serious Riesling wines that are carefully balanced between sweet fruit and invigorating acidity.   
90 Marguerite Thomas May 11, 2021

Villa Wolf, Pfalz (Germany) Gewurztraminer Loosen Bros. 2016 ($15): As fresh as a whiff of blossom-scented mountain air, this bright wine charms the senses with its delicate nuances of pink grapefruit and juicy peach.  This subtly off-dry Gewürztraminer is lush and generous on the palate, and the finish is clean and decisive.  
90 Marguerite Thomas Jun 25, 2019

Weingut Karl Schaefer, Pfalz (Germany) Riesling Medium Dry Wachenheim "Sonnentropfen" 2013 ($29, Valckenberg International, Inc.): To my taste, this Riesling strikes a perfect balance in several ways.  It has some sweetness but almost as soon as you sense that, a refreshing high acidity intercepts the sweetness and diminishes its effect.  The wine is very flavorful, with succulent notes of citrus and stone fruits, but a stony, savory mineral character provides contrast to the fruitiness and makes the wine so much more than just fruity.  Medium-bodied and elegant in style, this wine also has great concentration and focus to its flavors.  Altogether, it’s delicious, and that probably holds true even for those who prefer their Rieslings dry.  Its alcohol level is 10 percent. 90 Mary Ewing-Mulligan Dec 23, 2014

Blue Fish, Pfalz (Germany) Sweet Riesling 2007 ($11, Palm Bay International):  Those of us who have grumbled for years about how complicated and user-unfriendly German wine labels can be have plenty to be happy about with Blue Fish.  The front label says it all in very clear terms: “Sweet Riesling,” “Estate Bottled,” plus the vintage and the fact that the wine is imported.  That’s it--no weird script or mysterious wine references in German.  Of course, with Riesling the word “sweet” is often ambiguous, but in this case at least, the wine is redolent of juicy, fruity sweetness backed by a refreshing splash of acidity that keeps it from being cloying.  It’s a remarkably satisfying sipping wine and is terrific with foods that have a hint of heat--curries and spicy Asian dishes, as well as kicked-up chicken enchiladas or turkey chili. 89 Marguerite Thomas Feb 16, 2010

Blue Fish, Pfalz (Germany) Riesling “Original” 2008 ($11, Palm Bay International): This wine is unusual in that it is a very affordable Riesling with a friendly, non-pretentious label, but the wine is dry and will appeal to sophisticated palates as well as those who generally buy mass-market wines.  It is medium-bodied, fresh and crisp, with lively, high acidity and aromas and flavors that quietly suggest peaches, apples and mineral character. It makes a lovely accompaniment to tomatoes with mozzarella, fish dishes and light meat entrees. 89 Mary Ewing-Mulligan Sep 1, 2009

Darting, Pfalz (Germany) Riesling Kabinett Durkheimer Nonnengarten 2006 ($18, Terry Thiese Selection/ Michael Skurnik): An excellent value in German Riesling, this medium-weight wine tastes of sweet, succulent summer peaches but finishes dry, with tingling acidity.  It comes in a full liter bottle, so would be an excellent choice for warm weather entertaining. 89 Paul Lukacs Sep 9, 2008

Villa Wolf, Pfalz (Germany) Riesling 2008 ($12, Loosen Bros. USA):  If you’re looking for a good value wine (and who isn’t these days) this pretty little Riesling should make you very happy.  With a rich and silky base dominated by elements of peach and nectarine, it has a clean, dry finish heightened by suggestions of citrus, notably grapefruit and lime peel. 89 Marguerite Thomas Apr 20, 2010

Villa Wolf, Pfalz (Germany) Riesling 2020 ($15, Loosen Brothers USA):  This off-dry Pfalz Riesling offers ample notes of white peaches, apricots, and nectarines with a crisp lime zest that cuts through the slightly sweet taste.  It has bright acidity providing an exquisitely refreshing experience.  A natural pair with lobster or crab.  It doesn’t matter that summer is coming to an end.  This will serve you well all year round.          
89 Miranda Franco Sep 21, 2021

Saint M, Pfalz (Germany) Riesling 2006 ($12, Chateau Ste Michelle): Part of the Chateau Ste Michelle and Ernst Loosen partnership responsible for 'Eroica' Riesling in Washington, this lush Riesling from the Pfalz in Germany displays ripe peach and apricot flavors, a hint of sugar, and a long, lingering finish.  Fruit, not minerality, constitutes its calling card, but that fruit is so tasty that you won't have the sense that you're missing anything.  It also has the advantage of sporting only 11% alcohol. 88 Paul Lukacs Aug 7, 2007

Villa Wolf, Pfalz (Germany) Pinot Blanc 2015 ($12, Loosen Bros. USA):  Quite subtle, with autumn fruit flavors and excellent balance due to the crisp acidity that keeps everything in check.  Its youthful vivacity constitutes its charm. 88 Paul Lukacs May 9, 2017

Blue Fish, Pfalz (Germany) Riesling 'Original' 2010 ($10, Palm Bay International): Over the course of 2012 I found few if any white wines to match the quality and price combination offered by this friendly, delicious Riesling from Germany's Pfalz district. It is the quintessential white quaffing wine. Fermented to dryness in stainless steel tanks, it is fresh and clean, with juicy acidity and inviting aromas of peach, apricot and perfectly ripe lime.
85 Robert Whitley Jan 1, 2013

Friedrich Becker Family, Pflaz (Germany) Pinot Blanc 2016 ($17, Rudi Wiest): While Pinot Blanc is often a pleasurable, easy-to-drink white wine, it does not often achieve this degree of depth and character.  The Becker Family Pfalz Pinot Blanc is a delicious, layered, exotic, elegant and dry rendition of the grape.  The bouquet is fresh and forward with grapefruit, apple, peach and guava fruit scents interwoven with floral and spice tones.  The layers of luscious peach, citrus and tropical fruit flavors unfold across the palate followed by subtleties of spice and a minerally-clean, dry finish.  It’s a stellar summertime white to enjoy anytime over the next 2 to 3 years.
90 Wayne Belding Aug 8, 2017

Müller-Catoir, Pflaz (Germany) Riesling Feinherb 2016 ($22, Terry Thiese Selection):  Müller-Catoir is a top estate in Germany’s Pfalz anbaugebeit.  While they make a wide range of wines, their 2016 Pfalz Feinherb Riesling is one of the best values in the range.  It is a wonderful expression of Pfalz style made in a just off-dry style.  The bouquet is expressive and enticing with vivid peach, apple and citrus fruit scents interwoven with elements of flowers, subtle herbs and ginger.  On the palate, it shows pure flavors of peach and green apple backed by the ginger-like spice, a rich texture and stony minerality.  The herbal and spice nuances infuse the fruit elements to form a layered and complex whole. This is a delicious Riesling that will cellar well for another 3 to 5 years. 90 Wayne Belding Jan 9, 2018

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Rheingau:

Red:

August Kesseler, Assmannshäusen Höllenberg GG (Rheingau, Germany) Pinot Noir 2016 ($203, Vineyard Brands):  This is one of the most remarkable renditions of Pinot Noir that I’ve tasted over the past five years, and just for context, that span would include tastings of well over 1,000 bottles made from that variety.  Beyond being striking for a German Pinot, it embodies a couple of characteristics that make it a sort of archetype for Pinot per se, alongside the likes of Musigny or La Tache from Burgundy (stop laughing, I’m serious).  First, it almost perfectly exemplifies an uncanny combination of “flavor without weight,” an attribute that transcends even the descriptors “delicacy” or “elegance” that are often attached to Pinot.  Second, when evaluating young wines — especially Riesling and Pinot Noir — I place very high value on “purity” of fruit.  This does not refer to a wine that is “simple,” showing fruit and nothing else, but rather to a pure core of fruit flavor in a wine that enables other accent notes to display themselves against a perfectly un-tainted background.  This wine is an object lesson in purity, showing ripe, red cherry flavors that are as impeccable as they are alluring.  Subtle accents of spices and some nascent savory undertones are also evident, but everything speaks softly in this wine, including the wood and tannins.  Regarding the utter absence of any astringency from stem or seed tannins, it seems that this wine results from the lightest possible pressing, or that the juice for this particular bottling wasn’t pressed at all, as opposed to being made just from the free-run juice freed by the weight of the grapes themselves in a recaption bin.  Based on the wine’s “feel,” I’d guess that — if it was pressed at all — it was by butterflies who had inhaled helium.  Phenomenally sleek and graceful, this is quintessentially “feminine” Pinot, and I only wish I had another bottle to see how it will age as tertiary notes from time in bottle add complexities to this almost ethereal wine.    
97 Michael Franz Jun 16, 2020

Rosé:

August Kesseler, Rheingau (Germany) Pinot Noir Rosé 2010 ($25, Vineyard Brands): This dry German rosé delivers a wave of vibrant red berry flavors.  The wine tastes bright and fresh but has just enough substance to be a delightful accompaniment to light summer and autumnal foods.
90 Marguerite Thomas Aug 13, 2013

White:

Weingut Johannishof, Johannisberg (Rheingau, Germany) Riesling Kabinett 'V' 2010 ($24, Valckenberg):  Johannishof is one of the great producers in the Rheingau, where they own about 50 acres in prized vineyards, included Vogelsang.  For unknown reasons they opt to call this wine V instead of putting the vineyard name on the label.  (It’s similar to owning a piece of a great vineyard in Burgundy or Barolo and keeping it a secret).  But this graceful wine should not be kept secret.  Slightly riper, befitting a wine from the Rheingau, it conveys hints of yellow peaches rather than white flowers.  Mouthwatering acidity refreshes the palate and makes it a lovely choice for Asian fare. 92 Michael Apstein Aug 9, 2011

Weingut Robert Weil, Kiedrich Gräfenberg (Rheingau, Germany) Riesling Auslese 2009 ($85, Loosen Bros USA): This is a marvelous dessert wine. It’s sweet, but certainly not sugary or cloying. What amazes is the perfect, I mean perfect, balance of apricot skin tinged sweetness and riveting acidity. It’s so invigorating you hardly realize it’s sweet. It reveals itself gradually, sip by sip. I advise against pairing with a dessert -- the flavors will fight. Instead savor with cheese or just by itself. 375 ml bottle.
96 Michael Apstein Jan 22, 2013

Robert Weil, Rheingau (Germany) Riesling Eiswein Kiedrich Gräfenberg 2012 ($365, Loosen Bros. USA): There’s no doubt that this wine qualifies as a splurge by dint of its price tag (especially in a 375ml bottle), but it provides a revelatory experience for those able to pony up for it.  Only tiny amounts of it are made, so this won’t be easy to find; if you see either the Beerenauslese or Trockenbeerenauslese bottlings from this house and vineyard from 2011, 2012 or 2013, don’t hesitate to snap those up, as they are flat-out amazing wines as well, albeit in a different style.  The BA and TBA wines from Weil are spectacularly layered and complex, whereas this Eiswein is all about purity.  That may seem a little surprising, given that the wine is extremely rich, and our tendency is to associate succulence with sin rather than purity.  However, the fabulously opulent fruit (recalling baked apples and the best peach you ever ate in your life) is interlaced with such wonderfully energetic acidity that the overall sensation is one of striking crystalline clarity.  The balance is perfect and the finish is seemingly endless.
98 Michael Franz Feb 17, 2015

Schloss Johannisberg, Rheingau (Germany) Riesling Silberlack Trocken GG 2018 ($75):  Schloss Johannisberg, whose Riesling planting started in 1719, is thought to be the oldest Riesling producer in the world.  (The first documented wine harvest from the site itself was a roughly a thousand years earlier, in 817.)  The estate grows only Riesling, yet makes many different wines depending on where in the vineyard the grapes grow and when they are harvested.  Stefan Doktor, the estate director, explains that they make many different wines because of the diversity of soils and microclimates within the vineyard, which is located at the confluence of warmer air from the Rhine river and cooler air from the north.  He emphasizes that you need cold climate to make superb Riesling.  Cold nights especially — and the nights are cold at Schloss Johannisberg — slow ripening and allow flavors of the Riesling grape to develop.   The other advantage of this northern clime, according to Doktor, is long hours of daylight during the summer, from 5 AM until 10 PM, which helps the grapes achieve ripeness.  He adds that the quartz in the soil retains heat, which also aids ripening.  This wine, labeled Silberlack Trocken for the vineyard parcel, is bone dry with a measured residual sugar of 2.7 grams/liter.  To put that wine-geek number in perspective, tasters can typically start to detect sweetness at a level of about 5 grams/liter.  The GG stands for Grosses Gewachs, the equivalent of Grand Cru, indicating the stature of the growing site.  The grapes come from the coolest part of their vineyard, the southwest corner, which is always the last to be harvested.  The wine is positively gorgeous, racy, minerally and penetrating.  It’s all you could want.  The first sip makes you smile.  With impeccable balance, all the elements are in harmony and dance across the palate.  The tension between vibrant minerality and alluring peach-like fruitiness is splendid and seemingly never ending in the aftertaste of the wine.  Sip it by itself, or drink it with virtually anything.  You will be surprised how wonderful it is, even with a steak.    
96 Michael Apstein Oct 20, 2020

Weingut Robert Weil, Rheingau (Germany) Riesling Kiedrich Gräfenberg 2009 ($76):  Golden in color and sumptuously rich on the palate, this wine (packaged in a 375 ml bottle) sang a veritable siren’s song of delight.  Drinking it was a case of proverbial infanticide, as it clearly is made not only to last but to evolve and improve with many years in bottle.  Nonetheless, it was absolutely delicious, honeyed yet crisp and clean, with evident botrytis but nothing cloying or heavy.  Instead, the flavors lingered effortlessly for what seemed like minutes.  Simply fantastic stuff. 95 Paul Lukacs Mar 22, 2011

Robert Weil, Rheingau (Germany) Riesling Trocken Kiedrich Gräfenberg Erstes Gewächs 2009 ($28, Loosen Brothers USA): Wilhelm Weil, who superintends this great estate, is perhaps Germany’s greatest master of dry Riesling, and this wine offers a completely convincing case for how good the whole genre can be.  Every sensory instant--from the first sniff to the last flicker of the finish--is imbued with complex notes of flowers, fruit and minerals, all perfectly intertwined and brightened by fresh acidity and extremely subtle impressions of ripeness.  This is a rare sort of wine that can raise the greatest but most unlikely of questions in the mind of its taster:  Should I study it, or gulp it?
94 Michael Franz Jul 30, 2013

Robert Weil, Rheingau (Germany) Riesling Trocken GG Kiedrich Gräfenberg 2012 ($92, Loosen Brothers USA): Weil and Trimbach (from Alsace) are the world’s premier producers of dry Riesling, routinely reaching heights of excellence that are only attained sporadically by the best among their peers.  This is a very expensive wine, but also one sourced from an indisputably great site that shows its pedigree in every respect:  Strikingly expressive aromas, sharply focused flavors, brilliantly symmetrical proportions, and great length on the palate.  Already a masterwork, it will attain additional complexity if cellared, though only time will tell whether the complexities derived from time in bottle will prove more attractive than the gorgeous primary fruit that it exhibits today.
94 Michael Franz Dec 10, 2013

Robert Weil, Rheingau (Germany) Riesling Trocken Kiedrich Turmberg 2015 ($58, Loosen Bros. USA):  Robert Weil was the master of dry German Riesling a generation ago, when few other vintners were interested in crafting dry wines, and he remains the master today, when almost every winemaker in Germany is chasing excellence in dry styles.  Kiedrich Turmberg is second in the estate's pecking order of vineyard sites, and Weil makes no secret of this, pricing this wine lower than the Kiedrich Gräfenberg Trocken GG, which is always a bigger, more forceful wine.  With that acknowledged, however, the Turmberg is richer and more deeply flavored in 2015 than in any previous vintage that I can recall, yet remains fresh and intricate rather than heavy.  Truly dry but absolutely packed with delicious fruit recalling mandarin oranges, baked apples and poached peaches, with excellent underlying acidity and minerality, this is a stunningly impressive wine.
94 Michael Franz Nov 28, 2017

Robert Weil, Rheingau (Germany) Riesling Trocken Kiedrich Turmberg 2017 ($55, Loosen Bros. ):  This is a terrific dry Riesling from Robert Weil’s VDP Erste Lage Turmberg vineyard.  It displays the concentration and depth of flavor that you’d expect from a master vintner and a top site and vintage, yet retains Riesling’s magically lithe, effortless freshness.  Subtle floral aromas lead to open, expressive flavors of apples, stone fruits and tangerines, with wonderfully integrated acidity and intriguing mineral undertones that provide interplay with the fruit and keep this interesting sip after sip until you’ve drained the bottle, as I did, joyfully. 
94 Michael Franz Jul 2, 2019

Schloss Vollrads, Rheingau (Germany) Riesling QBA Dry 2018 ($28):  Gird yourself -- writer about to wax poetic about Riesling again!  If you’re still not biting when we tell you that Riesling is the most noble of the noble white grapes, please try this wine and join us.  It’s a sheer delight from beginning to end, with zippy lemon, lime and wet stone, laser focused acidity, and a long finish bursting with citrus and stone fruit.   Don’t miss out!  A Platinum Award winner at the 2020 Sommelier Challenge International Wine & Spirits Competition.    
94 Rich Cook Sep 15, 2020

Weingut Künstler, Rheingau (Germany) Riesling Erste Lage Hochheimer Kirchenstück "Im Stein" 2019 ($42):  Savoring the pure and vibrant style of great Riesling is one of life’s most wonderful pleasures for wine lovers.  The Künstler Estate has hit the mark once more with their excellent 2019 Hochheimer Kirchenstück Im Stein Erste Lage Riesling.  It shows lovely aromas of peach, apricot and lemon fruits interwoven hints of honey, gingery spice and fruit blossoms.  Quite dry, pure and clean on the palate, its cascade of lemon, apple, peach and ripe tropical fruit flavors are balanced by its vibrant, mouth-watering acidity.  The 2019 German wines show concentrated fruit and rich textures.  This is a fine example of the harvest.           
94 Wayne Belding Nov 30, 2021

Robert Weil, Rheingau (Germany) Riesling Kabinett Trocken 2005 ($30, Rudy Wiest Selections, Cellars International): Wilhem Weil, a Riesling fanatic, is clearly one of the most important producers in the Rheingau.  His estate, one of the largest in the region, is planted with 98% Riesling.  His 2005 Kabinett Trocken is quite ripe and rich for this category and has lots more character and concentrated flavors than most 'trocken' wines.  A well-structured, fine thoroughbred of a wine with excellent acidity to balance the ripeness. 93 Ed McCarthy Oct 16, 2007

Schloss Vollrads, Rheingau (Germany) Riesling Kabinett Medium Dry 2015 ($20, Schmitt Sohne):  This once great estate has returned to excellence under the direction of Managing Director Dr. Rowald Hepp, and this wine is a wonderful manifestation of the renaissance.  Classic Kabinett character is on display from start to finish, beginning with tiny bubbles that cling to the interior of the glass, indicating early bottling with just a hint of unresolved carbon dioxide from the fermentation.  The aromas show light floral notes and juicy, open, perfectly ripened fruit, and the flavors range from citrus to stone fruit to baked apple.  The balance of fruit, sweetness and acidity is essentially perfect, and the whole package is enlivened not only by the zesty acidity, but also by those tiny bubbles, which lend an almost crackly character to the wine's texture.  Even the packaging is exceptional, with a beautiful, fluted bottle and a high-quality Vino Lok glass stopper.  A perfect wine for summer, and the perfect wine to introduce friends to the wonders of medium dry German Riesling.
93 Michael Franz Jun 27, 2017

Weingut Robert Weil, Rheingau (Rheingau, Germany) Riesling Spätlese Kiedrich Gräfenberg 2010 ($63, Loosen Bros, USA):  This is classic German Riesling, combining ripe peach-like notes with racy invigorating acidity.  Despite the ripe fruitiness indicated by the Spätlese indication (late harvest), its acidity makes it a lovely match for roast pork, sushi, and spiced Asian fare.  Of course, it’s a perfect aperitif as well. 93 Michael Apstein Oct 16, 2012

Weingut Robert Weil, Rheingau (Germany) Riesling Trocken Kiedricher Gräfenberg 2009 ($75, Loosen Brothers):  Robert Weil’s name on a label is a guarantee of quality, since the winery is among Germany’s best.  Trocken, or bone-dry wines, are not my favorite style of German Riesling, but this one wowed even a skeptic like myself.  It has a piercing precision and minerality that pours over the palate.  Verve in the finish just amplifies the overall taste. 93 Michael Apstein May 3, 2011

Weingut Robert Weil, Rheingau (Germany) Riesling Trocken 2015 ($21, Loosen Brothers):  Weingut Robert Weil Trocken is always delicious, but this vintage is a stunner even by those standards.  Positioned somewhere along that magic line between sweetness and firm acidity, it has intense, beautifully balanced fruit flavors perfectly aligned with flinty minerality.  Produced from the fruit from sustainably managed vineyards, this graceful Riesling brings out the best in a surprisingly wide range of foods.  Friends and I enjoyed it recently with an array of Indian dishes (some fiercely spiced, others creamy and complex), and the Trocken rose to the occasion beautifully, accenting special taste nuances in each of the dishes.
93 Marguerite Thomas Dec 12, 2017

Robert Weil, Rheingau (Germany) Riesling Kabinett 2013 ($25, Loosen Bros. USA): Savoring the pure and vibrant style of great Riesling is one of life’s most wonderful pleasures.  The Robert Weil Estate has hit the mark once more with their excellent 2013 Rheingau Kabinett.  You will delight in its lovely aromas of peach, apricot and lemon fruits interwoven hints of honey, gingery spice and white flowers.  Off-dry but pure and clean on the palate, its cascade of lemon, apple, peach and ripe tropical fruit flavors are balanced by its vibrant, mouth-watering acidity.  The 2013 German wines show concentrated fruit and rich textures.  As exemplified by this wine, it is a vintage that will cellar well for a decade
92 Wayne Belding Mar 31, 2015

Weingut Johannishof, Rheingau (Germany) Johannisberg Riesling Kabinett “V” 2009 ($24, Valkenberg International):  Deeply delicious but still light as a feather, this is a terrific wine for summer sipping or for pairing with spicy seafood dishes.  The fruit shows notes of baked apples as well as nectarines, and though it is notably sweet, the balancing acidity is very nicely tuned to the fruit and sweetness, making for a lifted and refreshing finish. 92 Michael Franz Jul 27, 2010

Weingut Robert Weil, Rheingau (Germany) Riesling Spätlese 2008 ($85, Loosen Bros. USA Ltd):  One whiff and taste of this wine and it’s immediately apparent why the Germans are the Masters of Riesling.  Made from one of the finest single vineyards in the Rheingau, this Spätlese is an aromatic blend of honied fruit and crisp mouthwatering acidity.  It has a light gold color, lovely floral aromas with mineral traces and honied flavors with traces of passion fruit and citrus peel.  The finish is long, fruity and pleasantly sweet, with 8.5% alcohol.  This is an excellent sipping (though expensive) wine or a good accompaniment with food. 92 Gerald D. Boyd Apr 12, 2011

Weingut Robert Weil, Rheingau (Germany) Riesling Trocken 2014 ($18, Loosen Bros USA): Dry but fruity, with plenty of zesty acidity and impressive length on the palate, this wine has a good five to ten years of aging potential, but is delicious right now.  Given its quite reasonable price tag, it offers superior value.
92 Paul Lukacs May 2, 2017

Weingut Robert Weil, Rheingau (Germany) Riesling Trocken 2020 ($26, Loosen Bros. USA):  This Riesling grabs one's attention upon first sip.  It is bone dry, with intense, round flavors of peach and Rainier cherry fruit interlaced with saline mineral notes and crisp acidity that leaves the tongue tingling.  It can handle a Caprese salad or curried shrimp.  In 1867, founder Dr. Robert Weil was working as a professor of German at the Sorbonne in France when he purchased vineyards in Germany.  Today, his great-grandson, Wilhelm, oversees their vineyards and winery operations.  Their Trocken, which means dry, is their entry level wine made from the estates’ grapes grown near their classified hillside vineyards.  What a great introduction to this variety and the wines of the Rheingau.    
92 Rebecca Murphy Aug 2, 2022

Schloss Vollrads, Rheingau (Germany) Riesling Spätlese Trocken 2011 ($31, Schmitt Sohne):  When you hear that Schloss Vollrads has been growing and making wine for more than 900 years, you expect something minerally, traditional; you expect to taste the earth.  In 2011, you have to get to this ripeness (and price) level to do it.  The nose is minerally, and in the mouth it's focused, long and consistent, with high-toned stone fruit flavors and a precise mouthfeel.  8% alcohol. 91 W. Blake Gray Oct 16, 2012

Weingut August Eser, Rheingau (Germany) Riesling “Classic” 2010 ($23, AP Wine Imports):  The importer told me that the Classic moniker is an attempt by producers to replace the halbtrocken (half-dry) designation and indicate a drier style of Riesling.  To my mind, this plethora of descriptors just muddies the already murky waters of trying to tell a consumer whether it’s a dry or sweet Riesling.  Why not dispense with the meaningless designations and adopt the International Riesling Foundation sweetness scale for the back label?  Labeling aside, this is a quintessentially lacey German Riesling walking the tightrope of sweetness and piercing acidity.  A riveting minerality and the lip-smacking citrus notes balance the touch of sweetness beautifully.  Perhaps Eser’s choice of a green bottle, usually reserved for wines from the Mosel, as opposed to the Rheingau’s traditional brown bottle, is better than any moniker to indicate that this wine is less ripe and drier--more Mosel than Rheingau-like.  Sip it as a refreshing aperitif or serve it with spicy Spanish or Asian dishes. 91 Michael Apstein Jan 10, 2012

Reinhartshausen, Rheingau (Germany) Riesling 2011 ($14, Esprit du Vin): A splendid marriage of fruit and zippy acidity, this medium dry Riesling is a good example of the sort of precisely controlled velvety relaxation that Riesling can offer.  It has lots of personality, and is also very reasonably priced for such an enjoyable wine. Savor it on its own as an aperitif and/or pair it with a surprising number of different foods (try it with chicken or pork dishes, or hearty vegetable preparations such as eggplant parmesan).
90 Marguerite Thomas Jan 7, 2014

Robert Weil, Rheingau (Germany) Riesling “Tradition” 2010 ($30, Loosen Bros. USA):  Off-dry and slightly effervescent, this fresh, lively Riesling is wonderfully complex, with earthy minerality undergirding its juicy stone fruit flavors.  With a firm acidic structure, it should age well, but also is delicious as a classy aperitif right now. 90 Paul Lukacs Oct 18, 2011

Schloss Vollrads, Rheingau (Germany) Riesling Qualitätswein 2012 ($20, Schmitt Sohne): This excellent Riesling from the terrific 2012 vintage shows wonderful balance between expressive fruit and bracing acidity.  The delicate floral aromas lead to deep, lasting flavors recalling baked apples, mandarin oranges and quince paste, with a freshening beam of acidity lending edge to the finish.
90 Michael Franz Dec 10, 2013

Schloss Vollrads, Rheingau (Germany) Riesling Kabinett Trocken 2011 ($25, Schmitt Sohne):  I won't lie, I scratched out my ratings for this and its sibling, a medium dry Kabinett, over and over.  Without food, I prefer this one: more expansive aromas, nice stone fruit flavors that don't taste excessively sweet, and a smoother finish.  But with the food I tried both with (scallops and corn), I found the medium dry Kabinett brighter and a slightly better pairing, while this one dulled a bit.  Putting numbers on these wines is a philosophical conundrum.  Ultimately I went with my initial impressions because that's how I judge the majority of wines, without food, plus this wine might show better with a different, spicier dish.  The score is for how it tastes by itself.  9.5% alcohol. 90 W. Blake Gray Oct 16, 2012

Schloss Vollrads, Rheingau (Germany) Qualitatswein Dry Riesling 2011 ($20, Schmitt Sohne):  This lean and lively entry-level wine from Germany's oldest estate has a lightness to it, with plenty of stone fruit and a lingering finish.  Straightforward and food-friendly.  12.5% alcohol. 90 W. Blake Gray Oct 16, 2012

Weingut Baron Knyphausen, Rheingau (Germany) Riesling Kabinett “Baron K” 2011 ($18):  The trend over the years among top German producers has been to simplify the label by omitting the village and vineyard and just informing the consumer of the region.  Fortunately in this instance, Knyphausen has not simplified the wine.  It’s a classic Rheingau Riesling, lacey with captivating flavors of ripe white peaches and enough acidity to balance its fruitiness.  An easy choice as an aperitif, it goes well with spiced dishes or wasabi touched sushi. 90 Michael Apstein Oct 9, 2012

Weingut Johannishof, Rheingau (Germany) Riesling “Charta” 2011 ($25, Valckenberg):  Weingut Johannishof, Rheingau (Germany) Riesling “Charter” 2011 ($25, Valckenberg): Johannishof, a top-notch producer in the Rheingau, bottles a splendid array of single vineyard wines that never disappoint.  This wine, in contrast, comes is a blend from several of their vineyards, not all of which are in the same villages.  Hence, just the geographic indicator of Rheingau.   But don’t be put off by a seemingly lesser appellation--this is an excellent example of the beauty of German Riesling.  The "Charta" (meaning, Charter) designation is meant to indicate a dry wine.  And it is, basically.  Flowery spiciness, delicate fruitiness and vigorous acidity play off against each other to make this an exciting wine.  It works equally well as a stand-alone aperitif, with grilled pork, or highly spiced cuisine. 90 Michael Apstein Sep 11, 2012

Weingut Johannishof, Rheingau (Germany) Riesling “Charta” 2011 ($25, Valckenberg):  Weingut Johannishof, Rheingau (Germany) Riesling “Charter” 2011 ($25, Valckenberg): Johannishof, a top-notch producer in the Rheingau, bottles a splendid array of single vineyard wines that never disappoint.  This wine, in contrast, comes is a blend from several of their vineyards, not all of which are in the same villages.  Hence, just the geographic indicator of Rheingau.   But don’t be put off by a seemingly lesser appellation--this is an excellent example of the beauty of German Riesling.  The "Charta" (meaning, Charter) designation is meant to indicate a dry wine.  And it is, basically.  Flowery spiciness, delicate fruitiness and vigorous acidity play off against each other to make this an exciting wine.  It works equally well as a stand-alone aperitif, with grilled pork, or highly spiced cuisine. 90 Michael Apstein Sep 11, 2012

Weingut Robert Weil, Rheingau (Germany) Riesling “Tradition” 2009 ($28, Loosen Bros. USA):  A luscious, light-bodied but still substantial wine, this off-dry Riesling is a delight to sip both on its own as an aperitif and with food.  Its sugars are balanced beautifully by crisp, refreshing acidity, so the wine never feels cloying and never seems sappy.  Instead, it’s supremely refreshing, as one taste invites another, and then another. . . and before long, you’ll likely find the bottle empty! 90 Paul Lukacs Dec 7, 2010

August Kesseler, Rheingau (Germany) Silvaner & Riesling Qualitatswein Dry 2007 ($17, Vineyard Brands): A delicious summer-weight white, this blend of 70% Silvaner and 30% Riesling tastes riveting.  Dry but not tart, it offers a mélange of apple, citrus, and stone fruit flavors, all supported by a lightning streak of racy acidity.  Light-bodied, and sporting only 11.5% alcohol, it seems tailor- made for warm weather sipping. 89 Paul Lukacs May 19, 2009

Schloss Vollrads, Rheingau (Germany) Riesling Kabinett Medium Dry 2011 ($25, Schmitt Sohne):  Schloss Vollrads makes two Kabinett wines: this one, more for the German palate, and a sweeter wine for Americans.  I had both open at the same time and it's interesting to see how food changes the perception.  I thought, without food, this drier wine finished abruptly, but when I had it with scallops and fresh sweet corn, the fruit brightened and the finish lengthened.  Why, one could write an essay about the perils of rating wine without food.  In any case, this is not your porch-sipping Riesling, it's Riesling for dinner.  10.5% alcohol. 89 W. Blake Gray Oct 16, 2012

Baron Knyphausen, Rheingau (Germany) Riesling Kabinett “K” 2008 ($15, Valkenberg): A delicious Riesling at a very reasonable price, this features fruit recalling white peaches and apricots, along with a lightly sweet finish that draws added interest from nice mineral notes.  The residual sugar is quite effectively counterbalanced by fresh acidity, making this a delicious stand-alone sipper or a promising partner for lightly spicy foods. 88 Michael Franz Oct 20, 2009

Schloss Reinhartshausen, Rheingau (Germany) Riesling Old Vines 2007 ($15, Palm Bay International): One of the few unpleasant consequences of the modest revival that Riesling is now enjoying in North America is that prices are now coming into line with quality, making it hard to find estate Rieslings from top German regions for less that $20.  Here is a very noteworthy exception that shows classic aromas and flavors along with an excellent balance of sweetness to acidity.  Fruity and fresh, the citrus notes in the finish keep this tasting only moderately sweet--and deliciously so. 88 Michael Franz May 5, 2009

Schloss Vollrads, Rheingau (Germany) Riesling Spätlese 2011 ($45, Schmitt Sohne):  It's robbing the cradle to drink this now, but the slightly syrupy mouthfeel makes me wonder if it will have the shelf life its pedigree as top-of-the-line from Germany's oldest wine estate suggests.  It's very strongly flavored with white peach notes, and some hints of honeycomb suggest interesting aging notes to come, though deciding when to drink it is always going to be tricky.  7.5% alcohol, 375ml. 88 W. Blake Gray Oct 16, 2012

Schloss Vollrads, Rheingau (Germany) Qualitatswein Riesling 2011 ($20, Schmitt Sohne):  The weakest wine in a strong portfolio from Germany's oldest wine estate.  It smells fine, expressively floral, but the finish is too sugary and it tastes too supermarkety.  You can get this quality cheaper.  10.5% alcohol. 86 W. Blake Gray Oct 16, 2012

Weingut Robert Weil, Rhiengau (Germany) Riesling 2011 ($35, Loosen Brothers): You will be wowed by every luscious sip of this buoyant, graceful Riesling.  As expertly made medium-dry Riesling should be, it is densely packed with beautiful fruit and honeyed flavors layered with starbursts of bright, shining acidity.  It can be enjoyed as an aperitif or as an accompaniment to a variety of different dishes, from exotically spiced dishes to something as simple as roast chicken.
92 Marguerite Thomas Oct 29, 2013

Weingut Josef Leitz, Rudesheimer Berg Schlossberg (Rheingau, Germany) Riesling Trocken Alte Reben 2009 ($43, Michael Skurnik):  Count me among those who love the detail of the German wine label.  They may be long, but like this one, it tells you what you want to know before you pull the cork.  The shortcut, of course, which works in this instance, is to just remember the producer.  It’s hard to find a wine from Josef Leitz that can’t be recommended.  Onto the label.  To begin, Rudesheim is the town and Berg Schlossberg the vineyard in the Rheingau.  Alte Reben means old vines, which helps explain its great complexity, and Trocken indicates it’s a dry style.  Not bracingly dry, there’s a whisper of sweetness that amplifies its flavors of peaches and spice. It has surprising—almost startling—concentration given its delicacy.  Long and refined, its vibrant acidity keeps you coming back for more. 94 Michael Apstein Aug 10, 2010

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Rheinhessen:

Red:

Weingut Thorle, Rheinhessen (Germany) Spätburguner 2020 ($21, Veritable Wines & Estates):  Great Pinot Noir is often grown on limestone soils in a relatively cooler mesoclimate; no wonder that Germany is continuing to provide more exceptional examples of this iconic variety, known there as Spätburguner.   While this bottle is the estate's young vine cuvée, it was still aged for 22 months in 100% French oak barrels (no mention of the proportion of new wood) as well as being bottled unfiltered.  A translucent and yet deep purple color prepare the taster for some concentrated flavors, which is confirmed by the darkly, cola/spice and dusty mineral aromas of the wine.  In the mouth the wine shows a deft balance between lifted floral flavors and a richer, earthy sense, more importantly the flavors linger pleasantly and continue their intensity in the finish.       
91 Andrew Holod Nov 28, 2023

P.J. Valckenberg, Rheinhessen Qualitatswein (Germany) Pinot Noir “Undone” 2012 ($11, Valckenberg Intl. Inc.): This unoaked Pinot Noir from Germany is a completely different rendition of what we mostly find behind Pinot Noir labels.  It is pale in color, medium-bodied, and truly dry, with crisp acidity.  Its aromas and flavors of red berries and cherries ring true for the grape variety, but here they are pure and tart rather than rich, and a savory character underpins them.  The wine’s tannin is light and emerges only in the aftermath of the taste.  I find this wine a delightful, light, fresh Pinot that’s a welcome accompaniment to a warm weather meal.
89 Mary Ewing-Mulligan Jul 30, 2013

Rosé:

Seehof, Rheinhessen (Germany) Pinot Noir Rosé 2018 ($19, Vom Boden):  This wine provides pure and enticing refreshment!  It is a juicy and bright rosé that offers a great deal of tasting pleasure.  The aromas are forward and enticing, with strawberry, red cherry and cranberry notes backed by hints of flowers, orange peel and subtle spice.  Lively and fresh on the palate, its zesty cherry and strawberry flavors are supported by the orange zest and spice tones.  It’s a splendid aperitif and a marvelous wine to enjoy on its own.  It also has enough body to serve with salmon or picnic fare off the grill. 
90 Wayne Belding Sep 3, 2019

White:

Georg Albrecht Schneider, Niersteiner Hipping (Rheinhessen, Germany) Riesling Spätlese 2006 ($16, Winesellers, Ltd.): A very juicy, unapologetically sweet Spätlese at an appealingly low price, this is a steal for those who know what they are getting and who know how to use it.  Easily as sweet as many Auslese bottlings of Riesling from Germany, with just enough acidity to keep the sweetness from becoming cloying, this is a fine choice for sipping after a meal with some simple fruit.  It isn't quite sweet enough to hold its own with desserts, and is a bit too sweet to flatter most palates as an aperitif, but it is an ideal partner for ripe summer fruit. 87 Michael Franz May 13, 2008

Wittmann, Rheinhessen (Germany) Riesling Trocken Westhofen Brunnenhäuschen 2017 ($92, Loosen Bros.):  Only 100 cases of this sensational wine were made for the entire world, so you’ll need to be lucky to find a bottle.  Made from a VDP Grosse Lage (basically, Grand Cru, though there’s a long story behind this designation that would take us too far afield), this is the rare sort of wine that is pushing perfection upon release, and will continue to exhibit greatness in different ways as it ages over the next 15 or more years.  Wittmann Rieslings are, quite simply, the state of the art in Rheinhessen, showing wonderfully juicy, open fruit flavors that are so obviously delicious that the wines can be mistaken initially for being, well, obvious.  But they are not, as each successive sniff and sip demonstrates, with little aromatic and flavor nuances continuing to rise to the fore.  Similarly, the fruit-to-acid-to-mineral balance here is so close to perfect -- and the wine so seamlessly integrated -- that the wine could be mistaken initially for being monolithic.  But it is not, and the accents that emerge as the wine opens and warms demonstrate that definitively.  I’ll leave it at that, without detailing all the intricacies of aroma and flavor to be found in this wine, returning to my warning that you’ll need to be lucky to find a bottle.  If you do, let me assure you that you’ll feel very lucky indeed after paying up and starting to marvel at this object lesson in greatness. 
97 Michael Franz Jul 2, 2019

Wittmann, Rheinhessen (Germany) Riesling Trocken VDP Grosse Lage Brunnenhäuschen GG 2020 ($106, Loosen Bros. USA):  In the opinion of most experts on German wine, the Rheinhessen region is not all that close to the top of the quality pyramid, trailing the Mosel, Saar and Rheingau at a minimum, and probably Nahe and arguably even the Mittelrhein.  But that opinion seems not to have been heeded at Wittmann, where breathtakingly beautiful dry Rieslings are turned out every single year.  So obviously fabulous are the single-site Grosse Lage GG Riesling Trocken wines that almost no Riesling producers anywhere — including Germany — could set their own bottles alongside the top Wittmann wines for a critical blind tasting without breaking into a nervous sweat.  That’s not the most appealing mental image I could have conjured up, but the choice was deliberate, because the thing about these wines is that their deliciousness and excellence in a glass always seems calm and effortless.  To explain, the best wines of the Mosel are usually built on a push-pull style with ripeness tugging against tart acidity and palpable minerality, and this is also true of wines from the Saar.  When the push and pull in these wines produces a balance — which is usually the case for the best producers — the results are delicious and exciting, but hardly as harmonious as this wine is already, early in its evolution.  The fruit flavors recalling peaches and fresh apricots are ultra-pure, with their ripeness perfectly balanced by acidity that is so well integrated that it doesn’t really come across as an element different from the fruit but, rather, a characteristic of it.  Similarly, there’s a significant mineral component in the wine’s finish, but much more understated than the (often striking) slate minerality of wines from the Rheingau and especially the Mosel.  Nothing wrong with “striking,” to be sure, but there’s more than one way for a Riesling to impress at the highest level, which this one surely does.    
95 Michael Franz Aug 30, 2022

Gunderloch, Rheinhessen (Germany) Riesling Niersteiner Pettenthal Grosses Gewächs 2021 ($75, Bowler Wine):  The Grosses Gewächs designation is reserved for the finest vineyards in Germany, and the 2021 Gunderloch bottling from the Pettenthal vineyard in Nierstein shows the depth and power one seeks from these top sites.  This is a fabulous dry Riesling!  It is bold, racy, complex, layered and delicious.  Gunderloch ages their Grosses Gewächs wines in large oak barrels, and the subtle wood influence adds complexity to the wine.  The bouquet reveals pure grapefruit, lime zest, green apple and passion fruit tones enhanced by floral elements and hints of wild herbs.  Although still youthful, the flavors are pure and concentrated with the citrus fruits interwoven with herb, spice and floral nuances.  The purity, intensity and rich texture of the Gunderloch style is on display in this wine.  This layered, complex and dry Riesling will grow and improve for another decade and beyond.            
93 Wayne Belding Jan 2, 2024

Seehof, Rheinhessen (Germany) Riesling Morstein 2021 ($25, vom Boden):  This is pure and delicious Riesling at a very affordable price for its fine quality.  Seehof is located in the village of Westhofen in the southern Rheinhessen.  Long overlooked, this part of the Rheinhessen has achieved great notoriety in recent years.  The Morstein is a top site here, noted for its limestone soils.  Seehof has crafted an excellent Riesling in a classic Kabinett style from this exceptional vineyard.  At the nose, it offers bright scents of lemon, peach, apple and pineapple bolstered by hints of flowers, fresh ginger and spice.  The multilayered flavors offer juicy citrus, stone and tropical fruits.  This virtual basket of ripe fruits is enhanced by the floral, ginger, honey and spice elements.  Its pure and zesty, off-dry style makes this a wine to pair with a wide range of recipes or simply enjoy on its own.         
93 Wayne Belding Jan 17, 2023

Wagner-Stempel, Rheinhessen (Germany) Riesling Kabinett Siefersheimer Heerkretz 2020 ($23, Adventures in Wine):  This is pure and fine Riesling at a very affordable price.  Siefersheim lies at the western edge of the Rheinhessen, close to the border with the Nahe.  The Heerkretz is a top site here, noted for its spare soils formed from hard rhyolite rocks deposited here by ancient volcanic activity.  Wagner-Stempel has crafted an excellent Riesling in a classic Kabinett style from an early picking of the Heerkretz vineyard.  At the nose, it offers bright scents of ripe apple, lemon, peach and pineapple bolstered by hints of flowers, fresh ginger and spice.  The flavors offer layers of juicy and luscious citrus, stone and tropical fruits.  This basket of ripe fruits is underscored by the floral, honey and spice elements.  Its pure and zesty, off-dry style makes this a wine to pair with a wide range of recipes – from Japanese and Thai dishes to grilled sausages and beyond.     
93 Wayne Belding Jul 26, 2022

Weingut Wittmann, Rheinhessen (Germany) Riesling Trocken 2015 ($20, Loosen Brothers):  This is a pure, lively, intense and dry wine that exemplifies the racy richness of the best Rheinhessen Rieslings.  It shows a delectable range of fruit, floral and spice nuances.  Fresh scents of peach, apple, lime, Meyer lemon and grapefruit are enhanced by floral elements, a stony freshness and lively spice.  The flavors are pure and vibrant with the luscious apple and peach fruits interwoven with the citrus, spice and floral nuances.  This juicy, complex and dry Riesling will cellar well and improve for another decade. 93 Wayne Belding Nov 21, 2017

Wittmann, Rheinhessen (Germany) Riesling Trocken 2007 ($40, Wildman): This is a superb Riesling that shows--indisputably--that Germany can make dry renditions of this great grape that are at least as fine as those coming from Alsace, Austria, New Zealand or Australia.  Very fresh and crisp but also full of flavor and quite long on the palate, it shows lovely stone fruit and citrus notes along with very nice tinges of minerals.  A complex and completely convincing wine. 92 Michael Franz May 5, 2009

Georg Albrecht Schneider, Rheinhessen (Germany) Riesling Niersteiner Hipping Spätlese 2016 ($17, Winesellers Ltd.):  Seven generations of the Schneider family have owned this estate, with three generations working there today (a claim that few wineries in the world can make).  Creamy on the palate, this off-dry Riesling resonates with toothsome flavors of ripe pear, peach and lime zest enhanced by minerality.  Fresh notes of acidity contribute freshness and clarity to the wine’s overall composition. 
91 Marguerite Thomas Jan 8, 2019

Köster-Wolf, Rheinhessen (Germany) Riesling Trocken 2015 ($15, Artisans & Vines): This is just the kind of wine to raise the profile of Germany among consumers in the USA and other world markets.  It is truly dry, so there's no guesswork about how it will taste or what foods it will work with.  The label is simple and the bottle has a screw cap closure, so again--nice and easy.  The wine itself is very refreshingly bright and energetic, with lots of acidity, but thanks to a warm vintage and the characteristic soft edge of Rheinhessen Rieslings, the acidity isn't sour or screechy.  Floral aromas are very subtle, so there's no suggestion that the flavors will be sweet.  All in all, the wine is on the simple side, but also very pure and coherent.  This is a great choice for summer sipping, and especially for by-the-glass pouring in restaurants.  Sold in a full liter bottle, this offers excellent value on top of all its other virtues.
90 Michael Franz Jul 18, 2017

Heinz Eifel, Rheinhessen (Germany) Riesling Eiswein 2008 ($20):  Because genuine German ice wine is a very special treat made from hand-picked grapes frozen on the vine, it tends to be pricey.  At $20, this Heinz Eiffel bottling seems a remarkable bargain, especially given its high quality.  Sublimely sweet, concentrated and complex, without being at all syrupy, if it had just a bit more length on the palate it would be truly superb (2008 was a somewhat challenging vintage in the Rheinhessen, Germany’s largest wine-growing region).  This is a minor criticism, however, of this succulent wine.  Enjoy it chilled, with a fruit-based dessert such as a peach tart, or a fine blue cheese.  Actually, I prefer to skip the dessert altogether and enjoy a good eiswein on its own with nothing more than, perhaps, a bowl of nuts to accompany it. 89 Marguerite Thomas Jun 1, 2010

Louis Guntrum, Rheinhessen (Germany) Riesling Kabinett Niersteiner Bergkirche 2007 ($24, Broadbent Selections):

A delicious wine that would make an ideal aperitif, this bottling shows succulent fruit recalling baked apples and mandarin oranges, along with a subtle floral aromatic note.  Lightly but not confining in its sweetness, this is nicely balanced thanks to an edge of acidity that is nicely integrated with the fruit.

Strub, Rheinhessen (Germany) Silvaner Trocken 2021 ($19, Skurnik Wines & Spirits):  Silvaner is known mostly as an ordinary grape except in parts of Alsace, just as Pinot Grigio is usually ordinary except for Collio and other parts of northeast Italy.  But Silvaner can also produce charming if seldom outstanding wines.  That is the case here – floral nose of green fruits followed by a blend of spicy peaches with an underlying hint of white cheese and a few dusty tannins in the finish.  The kind of wine to take on a spring picnic to have with fresh-cut fruits.      
88 Roger Morris Feb 13, 2024

Franz Karl Schmitt, Rheinhessen (Germany) Riesling Kabinett Halbtrocken Niersteiner Kranzberg 2005 ($14, Winesellers, Ltd.): Soft and subtly sweet but not overtly so, this wine shows the gentle, rounded profile that appears in so many Rieslings from the Rheinhessen.  Although this bottling can't quite muster the complexity or structure of Rieslings from the Mosel, it compensates with a juicy immediacy and a relaxing gentleness that makes it a great sipping wine that will also work very well with lightly spicy foods. 86 Michael Franz Jun 12, 2007

Georg Albrecht Schneider, Rheinhessen (Germany) Riesling Spätlese Niersteiner Hipping 2005 ($16, Winesellers, Ltd.):

Overtly sweet and very softly rounded in the classic Rheinhessen mode, this may prove too juicy for those who love Mosel Rieslings for their piercing acidity.  However, it is a very generous sipping wine that shows plenty of acidity when fully chilled, and would work very nicely with a simple dessert of fresh fruit and shortbread cookies.

King Frosch, Rheinhessen Auslese (Germany) Noble Sweet Riesling 2015 ($60): Here's a great sweet wine for all your musician friends -- you'll see why when you see the bottle.  Best of all, the contents of the bottle are delicious.  The nose shows spiced peach and an intriguing dusty note.  Great acid balance keeps it tasting fruity rather than sugared, and it lingers long and clean, with a blossoming intensity.  Try it with fresh fruit or blue cheese -- or both!  A Platinum Award winner at the 2017 Winemaker Challenge International Wine Competition.
95 Rich Cook Feb 7, 2017

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Saar:

White:

Peter Lauer, Saar (Germany) Riesling Ayler Kupp Vineyard “Fass 6 Senior” 2018 ($30, Vom Boden):  Lightly off-dry and beautifully focused, this Riesling leans towards peach flavors interlaced with pear and orange, plus a delicate hint of licorice and a dash of saline minerality.  On the finish the wine’s fresh, delicate sweetness segues into cleansing tartness. The Ayler Kupp Vineyard is in the Saar (a tributary of the Mosel), and its incline is so steep that all work is done by hand.  No insecticides, pesticides or fertilizers are used here, nor is copper because of concern about the copper build-up in many organic vineyards (and the impact of copper on microorganisms in the soil).  In Lauer’s cellar, the only interventions are temperature control, clarification prior to fermentation, and battonage.  No fining agents are used.  
94 Marguerite Thomas Dec 10, 2019

Schloss Saarstein, Serrig (Saar, Germany) Riesling Kabinett Schloss Saarstein 2012 ($27): Part of the difficulty in understanding German wines is the divided ownership of most of the vineyards, which results in seeing the same vineyard designated wine from multiple producers.  With this wine, the confusion disappears because the vineyard, whose name is the same as the producer, is owned entirely by the producer, Schloss Saarstein.  The first sip stops you in your tracks.  Invigorating acidity hits the palate to be replaced by a wave of delicate white peach-like nuances.  The combination creates a racy, not cloying, wine with a ying/yang of sweetness and tartness with a bit of minerality thrown in for good measure.  Its clean laser-like cutting edginess begs for sushi.
93 Michael Apstein Aug 20, 2013

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