My Hyundai i30 CRDi 1.6 litre 2009 model

Engine oil and engine filter replacement that I performed.

You want the oil warm for draining so do this when you come back from a drive.

OK so this is what we see when we open the bonnet

Engine oil filler cap

Engine oil dip stick

Engine oil filter cover

Diesel fuel filter (just out of interest)

2 x bolts use 10 mm socket to remove. There are two unseen engine cover clips at the back, just pull the cover up when the bolts are undone and they will pop off. (See in the next slide)

The two unseen engine cover clips.

This is a clearer view of the engine oil filter cover, this needs a 28mm socket to undo it – the two clips hold the cover in the socket when you’re done.

The electrical connection on this solenoid is going to get in the way, so push the wire clip down and slide the plug out of the socket. It’s tempting to get a screwdriver under the wire and try to pull it up, but you push it in. Never force anything.

Wire retaining clip sits proud of the plastic plug main body

Close up of the engine oil filter cover. The symbol is 25Nm, this is telling you to tighten it to 28 Newton metre’s of torque when you put it back. This is a plastic cover so take care.

Here we go then – don’t need a torque wrench to get it off.

Put a rag around the area to catch drips and have a container handy.

I used a 4 litre ice-cream carton to keep the oil contained.

And here’s the element in all it’s glory after 15,000 kms.

I need to check which element it is to order the right part since two are possible, one is 104mm the other is 122 mm

Let’s call this 104 mm.

So I need a Ryco R2695P (Repco ROF142) or contact Hyundai or Hyspares.

So here’s my new filter Ryco R2695P, always a good idea to check measurements, use a ruler or even just stand side by side to see if it looks right – you’d be surprised how often you can get a wrong part. The Ryco looks to be finished a little better than the Mahle filter but performance wise – I wouldn’t know. Cost for 2 x R2695P plus delivery (as they weren’t in stock) was AU$52.84 from Supercheap Auto Rowville. Excellent service and next day delivery, very professional.

Just for reference (never know when you might need it). Old filter from last service (Done by local service centre – not Hyundai) was marked “Mahle OX351 26330-3C300 made in Australia”

Two o’rings and a washer came with the filter.

Again, old vs. new, always check dimensions. If it’s not the right size I wouldn’t be fitting it.

So in a pack along with the filter was an aluminium washer and two o’rings. The small one is to replace the existing o’ring on the end of the plastic guide. You’ll change it because it’s your car but will the service centre? Pinch the old one round the outside of the slot and push the lose bit up over the rim – I didn’t need to use a screwdriver.

Note – that little hole in the end is where the out flows out of back into the engine, it isn’t very big is it.

Clean all oil from the inside of the lid with a clean cloth.

Remove the o’ring from the groove, replace with the large o’ring supplied in the pack with the new filter.

I pushed the filter home in the plastic cover, it was a fairly tight fit as the white felt section of the filter slid up the guide and then I pushed a bit more and it went over a retaining clip on the inside of the cap, I was left with 80mm from the face of the filter to the shoulder of the cap where it will seat on the housing rim below

I then put a steel rule over the oil filter recess face and measured down to the 3 x webs you can see in the bottom of the filter housing, it was 80mm – a perfect match.

No O’rings here, the white felt section of the filter will seal on the extended aluminium circular section rising well proud of the 3 x webs. OK all good.

This white felt sealing section is a number of mm smaller than the solid plastic support behind it. Presumably the felt is designed to give and seal on the round aluminium casting in the bottom housing. It’s neat and I believe it’s effective.

Old oil is left in the filter housing, I used a syringe to suck up a total of 7ml before wiping out the remainder with a clean cloth.

Rub a little bit of new oil onto the new o’rings first (big and small)

This is the cleaned housing where you now put the pointy end of the filter/cap assembly into the hole and screw down firstly by hand.

Remember this is a plastic cap, be careful not to cross thread, if it’s tight at the beginning then it’s not right – don’t force. Once a few threads are engaged and the o’ring is coming up to the housing you will need a socket.

I used a torque wrench at 25Nm to tighten it up.

Put the plug back on the solenoid – it just pushes on.

OK then let’s drain the oil and refill with new.

This is a view from behind the front right hand side wheel. The cardboard is just for me to lie on when I get under the car. The oil drain plug is through this hole in the engine shield.

Here’s the drain plug (sump plug) use a 17 mm socket to undo. I’ve got a vacuum pump that sucks the oil out of the dipstick hole and contains it nicely - so I’ll use that.

Note – the sump plug isn’t right at the very very bottom of the sump – it’s up a bit, so maybe 100 or 200 ml of oil won’t drain out?

I bet the aluminium washer supplied with the filter is a new sump plug washer – nice touch.

A dozen pumps on the handle of my vacuum pump and the warm oil comes pouring into my oil drain tool.

A good check to see that it’s drained is to look at the volume, I’ve sucked exactly 5 litres out. I’ve used this device on my other two cars, the first time I did it on each car I then removed the sump plug to see if there was any significant amount of oil that it didn’t remove – in both cases nothing more than a few drips came out of the sump plug. I’m confident that this has removed as much oil as I would by removing the sump plug – if not more. (Remember the position of the sump plug)

The spec says 5.3 litres of oil, so you’re going to pour your selected oil in here. I use a funnel with a filter on the bottom. I poured the full 5 litre bottle in and checked on the dip stick. It was at the top hole which was around 4 mm short of the scribed “Full mark” Put it like this – it was full enough.

I went for a drive round the block for a few kms and then let the car stand on level ground for 5 minutes. Checked again, same result.

I did buy a second bottle of oil but I’m not adding any more, I’ll use this for the next service.

This now raises the question, do we need 5.3 litres or is 5.0 litres enough. Since bottles come in 5 litres it’s a shame to have to buy another bottle just to use 300ml’s. I’m not going to, but that’s up to you to decide.

I wonder if the service centre charges you for 2 bottles or they just put the 5.0 litres in? Remember I only got 5.0 litres out.

Put the engine cover back on, locate and push down on the two clips on at the back and tighten the two bolts at the front with a 10 mm socket. Job done, 1 hour once you have the parts..

Cost to me - Oil filter Ryco R2695P from Supercheap Auto AU$26.21, 5 litres Shell Helix Ultra Extra 5W-30 on special at Repco AU$ 51.99. It will cost me a further AU$5.00 to dispose of the 5 litres of oil at the recycle center which is the right thing to do.

Total = AU$83.20

Price for a “Service Center” to do this???? You’ve just saved yourself at least $100

You know - I’ve voided my warranty by doing this myself. (2 year, 30,000 km oil change, Note - I’ll be documenting the rest of the service later) Do you think the Service Centre would take this much care, would they change the o’rings, would they clean out any residual oil, would they check it’s the right part, would they use the best oil, would they put 5.3 litres of oil in or just the 5.0 same as me?

If anyone in Melbourne finds this of use and wants to treat me to a day out on Port Phillip Bay fishing in their boat, then send me an email, I’m available most of the time. Cheers

Steve R