Ris de Veau aux Cèpes

Here is a perfect marriage. Sweetbreads are the most prized variety meat, and cèpes are often considered the finest fungus (truffles excepted). The sauce is a time-honored velouté made from the cooking liquid enriched with crème fraîche and sharpened with a squeeze of fresh lemon. Wherever cèpes grow, you will find this combination, but it is a particular specialty of Bordeaux, so I suggest using Sémillon to add depth to the sauce. A green vegetable such as fresh peas, fine green beans (har