I totally just realized that I completely spaced and forgot to include the recipe.  I blame Comcast for screwing with our internet service this week.  The recipe is now added at the end of this post, so now you really have to excuse for not helping tortoni make a comebake.

I love learning about obscure desserts that aren’t talked about anymore.  Some desserts seem to get their 15 minutes of fame (ahem…cupcakes) and then they just fade into the background to make room for the next Big Thing (ahem, ahem…donuts…but oh how I love you).  But I always wonder why a particular dessert doesn’t stick around when others have stood the test of time.

I came across this article about holiday desserts through the decades last year.  The point was made clear that some desserts just don’t have staying power because, well, they are downright disgusting (although I’m sure someone loved mock plum pudding for what it was back then).  But if you think about it, the everyday desserts that are still popular today are the ones that are simple and timeless…yellow cake with chocolate frosting, pumpkin pie, chocolate chip cookies…simplicity never goes out of style.

But I ramble.

What can be even more fascinating is figuring out a recipe’s origin.  I first learned about tortoni when my mom forwarded me a recipe that had been featured on the Merc’s website.  The pure nature of it sounding Italian made me start Googling and I quickly came across this NY Times article.  Its origins can be traced back to the 1890s – yes, the 1890s – but it was most popular in the US in the 1950s, when it was most commonly sold in little paper cups.  But its heyday is long gone and now it is near impossible to find out much about this gem of a dessert.

It’s ice cream…but not.  It has all the makings of ice cream – cream, eggs, sugar – but they are taken apart and reconstructed in a way that creates a light and airy dessert that, when frozen, has a most distinctive texture.

The simplicity of the four ingredients also make this one heck of a versatile dessert.  The traditional dish uses crushed amaretti cookies for the crust and vanilla or almond extract and marsala in the mousse/cream itself.  But I also see this paring very well with some crushed graham crackers and some fudge ripple stirred through it.  Oh…or how about crushed Nilla wafers and strawberry (or any berry!) puree mixed through it for a look that resembles sorbet a la Baskin-Robbins.  I know you know what I’m talking about.

I chose to make mine in a springform pan and served it sliced, like any regular old cake or pie.  It lends it a more sophisticated air, imho, but I can most definitely see making it in little cupcake liners for ease of portability and serving in the future.

Either way, I’m pretty stoked to have learned about this out-of-fashion dessert and am determined to start its resurgence.  Cause anyone can make a comeback – just look at Michael Jackson.

Biscuit Tortoni

I adapted this recipe from two different sources, but most came from this recipe.

 
4 c crushed amaretti cookies (I ground some to fine crumbs and left some in bigger chunks for a more interesting texture)

3/4 c sugar

3 eggs, separated

1 t almond extract

1 t marsala

2 c heavy cream

Line a 9 inch spring form pan with parchment paper.  Sprinkle the bottom of the lined pan with half of the amaretti cookie crumbs and set aside.
Combine the sugar and 3/4 cups water in a meduim saucepan and bring to a boil.  Cook until the syrup reaches 230 degrees on a candy thermometer. 

While the syrup is cooking, whip the eggs whites in a stand mixer until they for stiff peaks.  Whisk by hand the egg yolks in a small bowl, until they are fluffy.  Gently fold the eggs yolks into the whipped egg whites in the mixer bowl.

When the syrup has reached 230 degrees, turn the mixer down to low and slowly pour the syrup into the egg mixture.  Increase the speed to medium-low until the mixture starts to cool slightly.  This is to ensure that the egg yolks don’t cook.  Once it has cooled to room temperature, add in the almond extract and marsala. 

Whip the cream in a separate bowl and then fold into the egg mixture. 

Spoon the mousse mixture into the prepared pan.  It will come right up to the top of the pan.  Sprinkle the top with the remaining cookie crumbs.  Cover with plastic wrap and freeze for 8 hours, or over night.

To serve, run a knife under hot water and run around the inside of the pan to release the tortoni from the sides.  Remove the ring from the spring form pan, slice and serve.  Enjoy!