Located in the middle of Copenhagen’s old Latin quarter, Vækst centres around a beautiful greenhouse, stretching up through the its two floors. Hanging plants draw nature in all the way to the table, while the lighting created an atmosphere mimicking a Danish summer evening. According to Google Translate, Vækst means “growth“, which is so fitting for the theme of this restaurant!
Gastronomically, the menu is based on fresh Nordic vegetables and herbs, prepared with meats and seafood. The fare is light and packed with flavour.
Vækst is part of the Copenhagen Food Collective, or Cofoco, which aims to create meals “with respect for you and the ingredients on your plate”. Essentially, their restaurants provide top quality food at affordable prices (I can confirm that our meal was delicious, service was wonderful, and Vækst is also featured in the Michelin Guide). They also put emphasis on sustainability, animal welfare, and ecology. Their meal options are local and organic and the restaurants are solar powered from their solar park in Western Jutland! How cool is that?
We started our meal with a horseradish and cheese amuse-bouche. Grilled bread was served in individual bowls, with lots of whipped butter.
My friend and I ordered the same thing: fried pork neck with ramson (wild garlic), flower sprouts, and yoghurt. It was served with a refreshing daikon and mint salad, as well as an addictive celeriac purée. For the life of me, I can’t remember what wine I ordered, which is super unusual… I have “Beaujolais” stuck in my head, so I might have ordered the gamay from that region (2017 Beaujolais-Villages, Dominique Piron), but it could have been the pinot noir (2017 Bourgogne Rouge, Maison Champy).
As a palate cleanser, we enjoyed dill shots. I’m obsessed with dill, so I could have had jugs of this! It had a really thick foam on top, which I LOVED.
Our mignardises included homemade chocolate bonbons filled with ganache and they gave me a canelé dipped in chocolate.
For dessert, we split the sea buckthorn sorbet with junket and milk crumble.
They kindly substituted our amuse-bouches, bread, and dessert with gluten-free options. Everything was delicious and I would go back to this restaurant in a heartbeat!
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