A visitor's guide to living like a local in Guyana

Gabriella Chapman
June 15, 2021 10:35 AM ET
(Photo: iStock.com)
(Photo: iStock.com)

Located on the northern coast of South America, Guyana is arguably one of the most culturally diverse countries in the Caribbean.

With a landmass of approximately 83,000 square miles, home to less than one million residents, it's safe to say that there is more than enough space and attractions for everyone to enjoy without getting in each other's way.

If you're planning a trip to the country with the hopes of experiencing Guyana through the eyes of a local, there are a few things you should consider, chief of which is the social and economic disparity that makes facets of the Guyanese experience differ from group to group.

Even so, there are elements of being Guyanese that remain constant regardless of culture, class or religion.

Here we've compiled a guide if you want to if only for a moment, live like a local in Guyana.

Guyanese food, there's nothing quite like it!

Every Guyanese loves a plate of curry! Whatever your meat of preference, whether it’s beef, chicken, duck, labba, mutton, eggs or chunks, just ensure it has masala and geerah. Without these, it won't taste like Guyanese curry. A plate of curry paired with either a fluffy roti, a tender puri or a plate of perfectly boiled rice is a popular dish in almost every Guyanese home. Chances are the gravy will be laced with pepper, so keep a hanky or paper towel close by because if you're not used to spicy food, your nose will run.

Pepperpot is another dish that you have to try if ever you set foot in our neck of the words. This dish is most commonly prepared around Christmas time but fret not, if you come by before or after the yuletide season you're bound to find a friend or neighbourhood restaurant that has pepperpot on their daily or weekly menus.

Cook-up competes strongly with pepper pot and curry. In fact, there are some families who would tell you that cook-up is a Sunday special. In some homes, every religious Sunday, a pot of cook-up is an absolute necessity. There is even a local shop that opens 24 hours every single day, selling only cook-up rice, and that shop has been around for generations (no exaggeration). That alone speaks directly to how much Guyanese enjoy this meal.

There's a plethora of other foods that people enjoy, but a box of chinese fried rice, chowmein or lo mein cannot go without mention. I challenge you to name a part of Guyana where there is no Chinese restaurant.  Locals often joke that there are more are Chinese restaurants than there are churches. The Chinese imprint, particularly their food, is embedded into the very DNA of Guyana. 

The market experience is like no other


Taking a walk through the market in the morning sun, especially on the weekend, with your black plastic bags or your white salt bag to stock up on essentials for the week is a must!

 “aunty wuh yuh shopping?” “uncle wuh yuh gah geh today?” “Banga! Hassah! Trout! Shark!” “sweet gyul come tell meh wuh yuh gah geh” “come buy meh out lemme shut meh out!”

These are but a few of the things you can expect to hear as you move from stall to stall, vendor to vendor, proof that Guyanese vernacular is as colourful as the fruits and vegetables being offered by vendors at the market. Some days, if you’re lucky, you may even get entertainment like a man jumping through hoops, playing with fire, or the children’s masquerade that passes through from time to time. This is especially prevalent at Bourda Market, which also is important to note, is a drive-through market. Those who don’t feel like coming out and facing the heat, have the option to shop from the comfort of their vehicles. Some say this takes away from the authenticity of the Guyanese market experience. We say, to each his/her own.

You can't go to the market without a quick stop  by the mango man/woman

In Guyana mango business is serious business! There's even a folk song dedicated to it.

 “Early in the mawning, before the break of day, see some market women going on their way. Baskets filled with mangoes, ripe, juicy and sweet… Get ya mangoes, ripe ripe mangoes, the market women cried. Sweet and nice, Buxton Spice, come to market and buy!”

There's not a Guyanese child who hasn't sung this song, a testament to our love for the fruit. Ripe, half-ripe, force ripe, or even the really green ones usually used to make a nice pickle. You can find mango with pepper and salt, or pickle, at almost every corner shop. Aunty could be selling bread and cheese, on the corner, but trust you can ask if she has mango and she will. If you live in the countryside where mango trees are in almost every backyard, that is a Guyanese version of heaven!

Rolling tyres on the street

There is something about rolling bicycle tyres with a stick or car tyres with your hand that just adds to the carefree abandon of childhood in Guyana. Adults say it's reminiscent of their childhood when free time was spent outdoors, picking fruits or day trips to one of Guyana's many rivers.

Even today children can be seen enjoying this pastime handed down from their parents and in some cases their parents before them as well. Amazing isn't it, that so much joy can be derived from such a simple act.

Popsicle/snow cone man

There’s a particular bell sound you hear in the afternoons passing by your home that is unique to the popsicle and snow cone man. It doesn’t matter how loud the TV is, or how busy you are at home with cleaning or other work, when you hear that sound, everything else disappears. And this isn’t just for children, parents (adults) too. Especially on a hot day, that is the one thing that is satisfyingly refreshing.

The Botanical Gardens / Zoo

Every Guyanese has a baby photo in the Botanical Gardens! Especially those born in the ’90s. It’s like that was the prime photo shoot location for babies and families. And almost every couple has one from date day or even their wedding. The beauty of the Botanical Gardens is beyond words and its significance resonates with all. It also houses the only zoo in the country, so this location is visited by people from every administrative region in the country.

Road trips

We've already established that in Guyana there is a lot to see, so road trips are a must! With three bountiful counties, divided into 10 regions, you can schedule a road trip for every day of the year. There are numerous creeks, lakes, waterfalls, trails, sandpits, resorts, wineries, nature walks and more that are accessible to everyone and perfect for unwinding from a tiring week. Not forgetting to mention that Guyana was named the number one eco destination in the world! So this can tell you that the place is abundantly blessed.

Seawall Sundays

For decades, the seawall and Bandstand at Kingston has been a prime location for families to relax on a Sunday afternoon. The attractions there are ideal for families with children since they have trampolines, bouncy castles, battery cars for children, toys and more. People who just want to enjoy the beautiful scenery can also go there. At nights, it is transformed to a hangout spot for adults who enjoy outdoor drinking, while being entertained by local DJ’s.

There was a time when the entire seawall was utilised for hanging out with friends and family. There was music, drinks and food on sale, tents with chairs, picnic rugs, and more. Until this was banned due to pollution issues. However, to date, the bandstand area is functioning as per normal and the wall between there and Vlissengen road is still a Sunday night norm for some people.

Mashramani Celebrations

You want to see patriotism and unity be exemplified? Check any Guyanese on February 23. Republic Day is a big deal for Guyanese and it is demonstrated in the representation seen on its anniversary every year. Young, old, and in between from every race, religion, culture and class are represented at Guyana’s Mashramani celebratory activities. There are usually a number of activities leading up to the day; Soca, Chutney and Calypso Monarchs, cultural exhibitions, concerts/shows, and the competitions that involve the children. But on February 23, the colourful costumes and happy, energetic people who hit the streets jumping and waving the Golden Arrowhead with pride, is always a glorious sight. Guyanese in the diaspora would also return just for this experience.

Giftland Mall

The Giftland Mall in Turkeyen became one of Guyana's most popular haunts in recent times. It does not exactly replicate what an actual mall in other countries look like, but it is the closest thing to it in Guyana. Apart from the stores where you can find almost anything you need, there is a food court perfect for an afternoon chill with friends. There is also the recently opened Caribbean Cinemas for those who prefer to come out to watch a movie. It should be noted though, that due to COVID-19, the cinema has been closed for over a year. 
The bars outside, however, have become the main spot for people who enjoy nightlife. Especially now when options for socialisation are unlimited due to the ongoing pandemic.

We've given you a lot to consider, but there's so much more to share about the authentic Guyanese experience.

Stay tuned for more!

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