Cook and Drink

A very tasty and simple dish from the Italian cuisine: Scallopini. It’s been popular for decades (a recipe is included in La Scienza in Cucina e l’Arte di Mangiar Bene by Pellegrino Artusi, published in 1891) and for very good reasons. A dish like Scaloppine al Limone is rich, refreshing and very tasty.

Scallopini is about thin slices of meat (veal preferred). The meat is dusted with flour and then fried (not browned) very briefly in oil and butter. Transfer from the pan, keep warm and make a sauce in the pan (with lemon and parsley for instance). Transfer the meat back to the pan, coat with the sauce and serve.

Unfortunately, you will find lots of recipes for Scallopini that suggest keeping the meat in the pan while making the sauce. If you do so, your sauce is not sufficiently reduced and the meat will be rubbery because it’s overcooked.

Essentials of Classic Italian Cooking 

In 1992 Marcella Hazan published Essentials of Classic Italian Cooking, a comprehensive overview of the Italian Cuisine. To quote Nigella Lawson: “If this were the only cookbook you owned, neither you nor those you cooked for would ever get bored.” The recipes are well written, clear and helpful. In her book she includes several recipes for Scallopini. One combines veal, ham, anchovies, capers and grappa. Intriguing, but wouldn’t that be a bit too much?
It turned out to be delicious. The veal was tender, juicy and delicious. The sauce had a long, rich intense but subtle taste, one that worked very well with the veal. We balanced the Scallopini with an aromatic fennel mash.

Essentials of Classic Italian Cooking is available via your local bookstore or the usual channels for 25 euro or 30 US$.

Wine Pairing

We enjoyed our Scallopini with a glass of Bardolino, made by Monte del Frà from Italy. The grapes used are Corvina, Rondinella and Molinara. It is a well-balanced, vibrant ruby red wine with lots of fruit and a hint of spices. Medium acidity. In general, you’re looking for a refreshing red wine with lots of fruit that should be served slightly chilled.

What You Need

• Buy the book is probably the best option!
• Butter
• 2 anchovy fillets
• 2 Veal Cutlets (flattened)
• 75 grams Pancetta or Guanciale
• 1 tablespoon Capers (in brine)
• Grappa
• Black Pepper
• Double Cream

What You Do

As with all Scallopini, make sure you have first class veal, nicely flattened, similar to a schnitzel, but perhaps even thinner (but not torn).
In a small pan combine butter and mashed anchovies. Warm gently, creating a warm mash. Dice the pancetta or the guanciale. Fry for a few minutes in a separate pan. Transfer the pancetta to the butter and anchovy combination. Discard the fat. Drain (and somewhat dry) the capers. Chop and add to the mixture. Fry for a minute on relatively high heat and then set aside.
Preheat a heavy iron skillet, medium heat is fine. Add olive oil and butter to the pan. Dust the veal with flour and fry for 30 seconds. Transfer to a dish and keep warm. Remove most of the fat from the pan, deglaze with grappa. Now add the anchovy mixture, juices from the meat (if any) and the cream. Reduce. Add the Scallopini and warm them through and through in the sauce for perhaps 2 minutes. Add some black pepper. Serve immediately on warm plates.

Fennel Mash

Chop the fennel and cook in vegetable stock. Reduce. Add butter, crème fraîche and white pepper. Coarsely blender the mash, perhaps add a drop of Pastis.