Schnitzel

Updated Feb. 20, 2024

Schnitzel
Christopher Testani for The New York Times. Food Stylist: Simon Andrews.
Total Time
30 minutes, plus overnight drying
Rating
4(803)
Notes
Read community notes

The most celebrated schnitzels in Vienna feature a crisp golden crust that puffs dramatically around a thinly pounded veal cutlet (pork loin cutlets are an easy, inexpensive alternative to veal), allowing the meat to cook gently within. Head over to Germany and you are more likely to find schnitzel with a crust that adheres to the meat. Both versions can be fantastic. For an extra-puffy crust, brush the cutlets with vodka before breading them. The volatility of the alcohol produces steam that inflates the schnitzel as it fries. (Water or white vinegar will also work if you want to avoid using alcohol.) If you prefer a crust that adheres more closely to the meat, whack the cutlets with the back of a knife a few times after pounding them in Step 3 to create an uneven surface texture; dry the meat well on paper towels, and skip the vodka coating in Step 5.

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Ingredients

Yield:4 servings
  • 4kaiser rolls, 12 slices hearty sandwich bread or 12 ounces store-bought plain bread crumbs (about 3 cups/340 grams); see Note
  • 4boneless, center-cut pork loin chops, about ½-inch thick (4 to 5 ounces each), fat mostly trimmed (see Note)
  • Kosher salt and black pepper
  • 2cups/about 280 grams all-purpose flour
  • 4 to 5large eggs, beaten with a fork just until roughly homogenous
  • ¼cup/60 milliliters 80-proof vodka
  • 2pounds lard or clarified butter, or 1 quart oil (see Note)
  • Lemon wedges, lingonberry jam or cranberry sauce, for serving
Ingredient Substitution Guide

Preparation

  1. Step 1

    With a chef’s knife, cut the bread (including the crusts) into ½- to 1-inch cubes and spread on a baking sheet in a single layer. Set them out overnight until completely dry. Alternatively, place the baking sheet in a 200-degree oven until the bread is completely dry but not browned at all, turning and stirring occasionally, about 1 hour. Transfer dried bread to a mini chopper or food processor, and process until as fine as possible, about 1 minute.

  2. Step 2

    Transfer bread crumbs to a fine-mesh strainer set over a large bowl. Sift the fine crumbs into the bowl, leaving behind coarser crumbs. Discard the coarse crumbs, or process and sift again. (You can repeat this several times, but there are diminishing returns.)

  3. Step 3

    Working one at a time, place a cutlet between two sheets of parchment paper or in a heavy-duty zip-top bag. Pound with a flat mallet or the bottom of a skillet or saucepan, aiming at the thickest parts with the heel of the pan. The goal is to stretch the pork cutlets to about four times their original surface area (twice as wide, twice as long) with about ⅛-inch thickness. Do not pound so aggressively that the meat tears or frays. Transfer to a large plate or tray, season lightly with salt and pepper, and repeat with remaining cutlets.

  4. Step 4

    When ready to cook, heat oven to 225 degrees. Set up a breading station next to the stove with four rimmed baking sheets or dishes large enough to fit one cutlet with plenty of space around it. Leave the one farthest from the stove empty, add flour to the second, beaten eggs to the third, and the bread crumbs to the one closest to the stove. (It will seem like too many bread crumbs, and that is OK.)

  5. Step 5

    Add the vodka to a small bowl. Nearby, have a pastry brush, a clean kitchen towel, a timer, a large fork or thin slotted spatula, a large plate lined with paper towels, extra paper towels, a cooling rack set in a rimmed sheet pan, a fine-mesh fat skimmer in a small saucepan or heatproof bowl, and an instant-read thermometer.

  6. Step 6

    When ready to cook, heat the lard in a large wok, Dutch oven or deep, steep-walled sauté pan over medium-high until it registers 375 to 400 degrees on the instant-read thermometer. Adjust flame to maintain that temperature throughout the cooking process.

  7. Step 7

    Working one at a time, place a cutlet in the empty rimmed baking sheet. Brush the meat with vodka, completely covering both sides with a thin layer. Immediately transfer the cutlet to the flour. Gently shake the baking sheet. Then, using your fingertips, pick up the cutlet from one edge and flip it over. Shake the baking sheet again to coat the second side with flour. Pick up the cutlet with your fingertips, shake gently to knock off excess flour, then inspect to ensure that there is a thin, even layer of flour across the whole cutlet. If necessary, re-dredge it to cover up any un-floured spots, but be careful not to fold the cutlet, which can cause the flour to bunch.

  8. Step 8

    Lay the cutlet onto the eggs. Shake the baking sheet gently. Using your fingertips, pick up the cutlet from one edge and flip it over. Pick up the cutlet with your fingertips, allowing excess egg to drain for a few seconds, then inspect to ensure that the cutlet is thoroughly coated. If necessary, dip the cutlet back into the egg to cover any dry spots.

  9. Step 9

    Transfer the cutlet to the bread crumbs. Using your fingers, scoop crumbs from around the cutlet and pile them on top, completely covering the cutlet. Do not press on the crumbs or cutlet at any point. Shake the baking sheet for a few seconds. Then, using your fingertips, pick up the cutlet from one edge, flip it, and return it to the bread crumbs. Shake the baking sheet, then pick up the cutlet with your fingertips and gently shake off excess crumbs, being careful not to fold or crease the cutlet.

  10. Step 10

    Carefully lay the cutlet onto the hot fat, starting near you and draping it away from you to avoid accidentally splashing yourself with hot oil. As fast as you can, wipe your fingers clean on the kitchen towel. Then, start swirling the pan, allowing the fat to splash over and around the cutlet for exactly 30 seconds. Using the fork or a thin, slotted spatula, pick up the cutlet from one edge and carefully flip it, being careful not to splash hot fat. Continue to cook, swirling. The cutlet should start to puff and inflate. Keep cooking while swirling until the cutlet is golden brown and crisp, about 1 to 1½ minutes.

  11. Step 11

    Using the fork or slotted spatula, pick up the cutlet from one edge and transfer to the paper towel-lined plate. Blot the top very gently with an extra paper towel, then transfer to the rack on the rimmed baking sheet and transfer to the oven to keep warm. Use the fine-mesh strainer to skim off the foam and remove as many stray bread crumbs from the fat as possible.

  12. Step 12

    Reheat the fat to 375 to 400 degrees and repeat Steps 7 to 11 for the remaining cutlets.

  13. Step 13

    Serve cutlets immediately with lemon wedges, lingonberry jam or cranberry sauce.

Tips
  • Store-bought canned plain bread crumbs work well here and eliminate the time it takes for the bread to dry. (If using them, skip Step 1.) For homemade crumbs, kaiser rolls are the traditional choice, and if you have a local bakery or supermarket that bakes them fresh, use them. Don’t use shelf-stable bagged kaiser rolls; they’ll be too soft. Any hearty white sandwich bread with a fine hole structure will also work. (But don’t use sourdough, baguettes, any other rustic, crusty breads, or brioche.)
  • The more uniform the pork loin chops, the better the coating will puff. This recipe will also work with veal, chicken breast, turkey breast, or pork sirloin cutlets. If using chicken or turkey, take time to gently pound them out to avoid tearing the more delicate meat.
  • Lard or clarified butter will give the pork better flavor, but oil will also work fine. After frying, allow the fat to sit until cool enough to handle, then pour it through a fine-mesh strainer lined with paper towels or a coffee filter into a bowl. Transfer to a container to store for future use. The same fat can be used for several dozen fries until it becomes too dark and starts to develop a fishy aroma.

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4 out of 5
803 user ratings
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Private Notes

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Cooking Notes

I use the opaque plastic liners used by cereal manufacturers to pound the cutlet. It holds up better than parchment or plastic wrap.

Be sure to squeeze the lemon wedges on to the schnitzel just before eating. Schnitzel without lemons is, objectively, not good.

Agree with John G. - don't ever use processed lard found in large American supermarkets. I've found the best place to get excellent lard is any good Mexican grocer - one's that make their own carnitas - they sell their own rendered lard in tubs for a few bucks.

I have got to admit: Vienna Schnitzel is the REAL schnitzel. I prepare it as often as I have time and with guests whom I know enjoy it. But I'd not previously heard of the Vodka step. It works! Outstanding!!! There is a good option for the 'clinging' blanket and a fuller meal for those hungry and in need of lotsa carbs etc. I do them with chicken breasts accompanied with a substantially saucy potato gratin [somewhat overly creamy] occasionally infused with small pieces of broccoli. WOW!

This was a lot of sturm und drang. 2 cups of flour to dredge 4 cutlets? 5 rimmed baking sheets? After the dredging, egging, and breadcrumbing my fingers were like mittens. Each step had to be inspected but there are no remedies for when the cutlet doesn't pass inspection. Also, I don't store large quantities of used fat until it smells fishy. I don't get the overwrought recipes that J. Kenji Lopez-Alt comes up with. Good food is simple and accessible.

My grandpa worked for a food company, used to bring home damaged rolls of cereal/cracker box waxed paper liner material. Grandma swore by them, great for pounding meat & for rolling out pie crusts too. Thicker & sturdier than regular waxed paper. Grandma taught me to collect those waxed paper liners out of cereal boxes, one of many useful tips she passed on to me. Great tip, thanks for bringing it to folks' attention. I've noticed though that lately they've been making them thinner... :(

Compliments from a Viennese! This is the real thing, down to serving it with cranberry sauce, a lemon wedge (not just for decoration), some Viennese potato salad on the side and NOTHING else! I'm impressed.

First of all real schnitzel is Veal not Pork! If you put them in the frying fat and keep pouring the hot fat over it with a spoon you'll get just the puffy crust of a Viennese Schnitzel as served by Figlmüller at Wollzeile. Serve with potato salad and lamb's lettuce. If you cook in oil ad at least some butter to the mix for taste and discard after max 8 Schnitzel. Don't wait for "too dark or fishy" as described above. A German Riesling or an Austrian Heurigen makes it a complete experience.

Schnitzel with lemon & a sprinkle of salt is the best. Growing up with a German/Austrian mother, pork schnitzel was a regular meal in our house. It is also delicious cold, with lemon, for a picnic or light snack. Do not leave out the lemon!

Surely you jest! Store bought bread crumbs? I regularly buy bread from an Italian bakery and when near the end of the loaf, save it and let it dry out. Save the ends in a zip lock until enough is there to run in the food processor. These crumbs are kept in a glass jar and never spoil. This of course is because this type of bread has nothing to spoil, only flour water yeast and salt. And about this quart of fat? 1/2" oil in a 12" stainless pan, cook until the edges start to brown, flip.

Another tip for a "puffy" wienerschnitzel is to add a tablespoon or two of cream to the egg mixture...in the past I have found this to give me a good soufflieren effect that reminds me of what I used to get when I lived in Vienna.

After years of having heavily breaded fingertips, I have found that using kitchen tongs is a lot less messy.

I pound the meat with my wooden rolling pin. My "authentic" (so I thought anyway) Viennese recipe calls for a bit of nutmeg in the egg & parmesan cheese too. Really wouldn't dispense with the nutmeg. I fry in olive oil + butter--not nearly so much & only rarely do the layers separate--but the flavor is very good & there's much less waste. I'd caution everyone against many minutes "warming" in a 225º oven.

I also prefer pork tenderloin as a substitute for veal.

This worked spectacularly, but I had the best results at a cooler oil temp, around 350. The puff was dramatic and fun. Hope you have a kitchen cleanup crew, because this makes a serious mess.

Does anyone also find this recipe hilariously prescriptive?! I feel like it should tell me how I should feel during every step.

Lingonberry jam is a must, squeezed lemon is a sin.

I prepared my meat ahead of time and placed them on a parchment lined baking sheet and then cooked them all at once. I had fantastic results and the process was not as messy or stressful as the method instructions.

Has Kenji not shared the gelatin method for cleaning oil used for frying? Search Serious Eats for his article on it. The method is a game changer.

When you use pork these are called an Iowa Pork Sandwich. I use a tender using mallet so they are easy to eat. Dip in f!our, egg and then crushed saltine crackers. Just fry in vegetable oil. When my son went on a European trip with friends over Christmas break and he ordered schnitzel in Germany. He was surprised when it came he said My Mother makes these!

Best schnitzel I’ve had. Made exactly as written. The vodka wash worked wonderfully.

Make sure to blend the blend the breadcrumbs in a food processor until they are super fine and run them through a sieve after to catch any that didn’t get fine. The breadcrumbs in the US are much coarser than the Semmelbrösel used in Austria. Doing this step allows the bread to bind together better and puff more when cooking.

Could I use panko for this recipe instead of the bread crumbs?

I once worked as a flavor chemist for an international food conglomerate. I studied the oxidation of fats and oils and the by-products that formed. Saving frying oil and reusing it is folly and bad for your health. You can make fried foods with a bound breading in a skillet with a little oil and butter. Discard any grease left at the end.

This recipe is legit. I’m honestly amazed at how good it came out. Crust was perfect and puffy, and meat was flavorful and moist. Add some nutmeg and paprika to the flour. Don’t worry about being so fussy with it.

The schnitzel was quite tasty, I chose to use canola oil, am now in the process of filtering the cooled oil as suggested, using a coffee filter and funnel into a glass container. One should note that this is an painfully slow process, - like over an hour- though the captured oil is indeed quite clear. Very glad I am doing this in the sink - as it would have made a mess of my kitchen counters.

Years ago Kenji published instructions for how to clean cooking oil with gelatin over at Serious Eats. Works like a charm and saves alot of money.

under the advice of butchers at bunzel’s meat market, milwaukee, wi, i now ask my butchers to shave the pork loin in the meat slicer. this saves me from having to pound it, and if the pork is high quality, renders a tender schnitzel while not destroying its texture and taste. don’t waste time and energy pulverizing an already tender cut !

1-2 eggs is plenty for 4 chops!!!!

I always season the meat before I bread. I use garlic salt and a little poultry seasoning. This way the seasoning stays in the meat rather than falling off into the pan if the breading separates. Also, the seasoning is more concentrated...cooking without garlic...sad. To serve, we use applesauce on top of the schnitzels, kluerse and rot Kohl.

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