Creole Gumbo

Creole Gumbo
Kate Sears for The New York Times. Food Stylist: Barrett Washburne.
Total Time
2 hours 30 minutes
Rating
4(304)
Notes
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Leah Chase, the chef and owner of Dooky Chase in New Orleans, gave an interview to Matt Lee and Ted Lee of The Times back in 2000. It was about her gumbo, which is brackish and silky and delicious, and for which she offered a recipe. Ms. Chase told them about giving a dinner in 1942 for a group of Tuskegee Airmen who refused to eat the gumbo she and a friend had prepared for them because they thought the file powder she put in the pot was a voodoo potion intended to ensnare the men. “One of the men was telling the others, ‘Don’t eat the gumbo! If you eat that gumbo, you’ll never leave New Orleans.’ ” Perhaps! (Sam Sifton) —Matt Lee and Ted Lee

Featured in: The Gumbo Variations: To Each His Own

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Ingredients

Yield:6 to 8 servings
  • 1pound medium head-on shrimp
  • 4hard crabs, cleaned and split in two
  • ½pound smoked sausage, diced
  • ½pound hot sausage, diced
  • ½pound beef brisket or lean veal stew meat
  • ½pound chicken gizzards
  • ½cup canola oil
  • ½cup flour
  • 1large onion, chopped
  • 6chicken wings, split
  • ½pound smoked ham, cubed
  • 2teaspoons paprika
  • 3cloves garlic, minced
  • 1teaspoon dried thyme
  • 3bay leaves
  • 1teaspoon salt
  • 24shucked oysters with liquor
  • 1tablespoon file powder
  • ½cup chopped parsley
Ingredient Substitution Guide
Nutritional analysis per serving (8 servings)

641 calories; 37 grams fat; 8 grams saturated fat; 0 grams trans fat; 17 grams monounsaturated fat; 9 grams polyunsaturated fat; 20 grams carbohydrates; 1 gram dietary fiber; 1 gram sugars; 57 grams protein; 994 milligrams sodium

Note: The information shown is Edamam’s estimate based on available ingredients and preparation. It should not be considered a substitute for a professional nutritionist’s advice.

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Preparation

  1. Step 1

    Peel and devein shrimp. Place heads and shells in stockpot with 12 cups water, and simmer over low heat until needed.

  2. Step 2

    In a 6-quart stockpot, combine crabs, sausages, beef or stew meat and gizzards; cook, stirring occasionally to prevent scorching, over low flame for 30 minutes.

  3. Step 3

    In a heavy-bottomed saute pan, whisk oil and flour together over low to moderate heat, and cook, whisking constantly until golden brown, about 20 minutes. Add onions, and cook, stirring, until soft. Pour mixture into pot with meats, and stir gently until well combined. Strain shrimp stock. Add to pot with enough water to make 14 cups liquid. Bring to a boil. Add chicken wings, smoked ham, paprika, garlic, thyme, bay leaves and salt, and simmer 30 minutes. Add peeled shrimp, and simmer 10 minutes. Add oysters, and turn off heat. Stir in file. Serve over rice, and garnish with fresh parsley.

Ratings

4 out of 5
304 user ratings
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Private Notes

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Cooking Notes

My grandmother was born in New Orleans, spoke French as her first language and was a descendant of a casket girl. Her opinion was that gumbo is a reflection of family history. Okra draws from West African stews, filé from Native American cooking and roux from French techniques. All are legitimate and all can be combined. If it tastes "right" to you" it is right.

don't stir in filé. sprinkle over gumbo in the bowl just before eating. if reheated, filé causes gumbo to become stringy.

Think it goes without saying that gizzards can be omitted and no one would be the wiser

Your grandmother was right - gumbo reflects family history and tradition. I chuckle reading derogatory comments about this recipe from people outside of the Deep South who have never lived here or eaten genuine gumbo. This recipe produces the most delicious broth I've had for a long time, and the broth is the most important aspect of gumbo - not the meats, seafood or vegetables. It's all about the broth.

No one would be the wiser, but the dish would be the poorer.

That's the beauty of gumbo, Jane. Your cajun gumbo is a darker color (hence a darker roux) whereas file creole gumbo is typically lighter (hence a golden roux). There's no such thing as 1 fits all recipe for gumbo, which is why everyone's gumbo is so different! Trust the golden roux for Queen Leah's recipe.

I know nothing about authenticity regarding gumbo and it’s variations, but I think this is a good recipe, and is very flexible with regard to the exact ingredients. I do like cooking the rice separately and adding it at serving time. My wife is trying to control her carb intake but I am not so we like the flexibility to add as much or as little as our tastes or diets allow. One thing... if preparing the rice separately, you should significantly reduce the amount of water used to make the broth

I use green bell pepper, onion, celery but also add a seeded jalapeño pepper.
I sprinkle file' over the top of my gumbo after I turn it off and let it sit for 20 minutes. It doesn't slime when reheated unless you let it boil.

This Gumbo was outrageously good. I left out ham, gizzards and crab, because it already seemed like a ton of meat, and it didn't miss the omissions. We had it this past Sunday for Sunday Supper before Mardi Gras, and I would make it again and again, for no special occasion. Amazing!

Taught at my Cajun mother's knee to make Seafood or Okra Chicken gumbo, I question the 20 minutes to make the roux. When you add the liquid it lightens the gumbo so you want to let the flour/oil mixture darken to walnut brown. The amount of vegetables (onions, green bell pepper and celery) added should be substantial. A large portion of parsley is essential to the final flavor. Simmer at least 6 hours. Seafood can be added a few minutes before serving over rice as it cooks quite quickly.

I have a 1970s New Orleans cookbook from Richard and Rima Collin. Their seafood gumbo recipe which reminds me so much of the gumbo I used to eat in New Orleans calls for cloves and mace. To my taste, without cloves and mace, seafood gumbo is boring.

Help...I'm confused with Step 2. All that meat in the stockpot...cooking for 30 minutes...with what...oil? Water? Or just meat in a dry pan (which seems like it might not work to me!)

You say "you'll never leave New Orleans" like that's a bad thing!

What am I missing? Why not just buy deveined shrimp if we are going to peel and devein them? It's messy and a huge time sink

Place heads and shells in stockpot with 12 cups water, and simmer over low heat until needed.

Loved the recipe ! Shrimps for 10 minutes is a little more that they need to cook and preserve a nice texture. 3 minutes and time to rest is, in my opinion, enough.

My grandmother was born in New Orleans, spoke French as her first language and was a descendant of a casket girl. Her opinion was that gumbo is a reflection of family history. Okra draws from West African stews, filé from Native American cooking and roux from French techniques. All are legitimate and all can be combined. If it tastes "right" to you" it is right.

Your grandmother was right - gumbo reflects family history and tradition. I chuckle reading derogatory comments about this recipe from people outside of the Deep South who have never lived here or eaten genuine gumbo. This recipe produces the most delicious broth I've had for a long time, and the broth is the most important aspect of gumbo - not the meats, seafood or vegetables. It's all about the broth.

Taught at my Cajun mother's knee to make Seafood or Okra Chicken gumbo, I question the 20 minutes to make the roux. When you add the liquid it lightens the gumbo so you want to let the flour/oil mixture darken to walnut brown. The amount of vegetables (onions, green bell pepper and celery) added should be substantial. A large portion of parsley is essential to the final flavor. Simmer at least 6 hours. Seafood can be added a few minutes before serving over rice as it cooks quite quickly.

That's the beauty of gumbo, Jane. Your cajun gumbo is a darker color (hence a darker roux) whereas file creole gumbo is typically lighter (hence a golden roux). There's no such thing as 1 fits all recipe for gumbo, which is why everyone's gumbo is so different! Trust the golden roux for Queen Leah's recipe.

This Gumbo was outrageously good. I left out ham, gizzards and crab, because it already seemed like a ton of meat, and it didn't miss the omissions. We had it this past Sunday for Sunday Supper before Mardi Gras, and I would make it again and again, for no special occasion. Amazing!

I know nothing about authenticity regarding gumbo and it’s variations, but I think this is a good recipe, and is very flexible with regard to the exact ingredients. I do like cooking the rice separately and adding it at serving time. My wife is trying to control her carb intake but I am not so we like the flexibility to add as much or as little as our tastes or diets allow. One thing... if preparing the rice separately, you should significantly reduce the amount of water used to make the broth

Think it goes without saying that gizzards can be omitted and no one would be the wiser

No one would be the wiser, but the dish would be the poorer.

I use green bell pepper, onion, celery but also add a seeded jalapeño pepper.
I sprinkle file' over the top of my gumbo after I turn it off and let it sit for 20 minutes. It doesn't slime when reheated unless you let it boil.

don't stir in filé. sprinkle over gumbo in the bowl just before eating. if reheated, filé causes gumbo to become stringy.

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Credits

Adapted from “The Dooky Chase Cookbook” by Leah Chase (Pelican Books, 1990)

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