I was telling a restaurant owner in Xicotepec de Juarez that I was on a mission to visit all ten pueblos magicos in Puebla. He seemed impressed and asked me where I had been.
I told him I had already been to Cholula, Atlixco, Zacatlan, and Chignahuapan. I was going to Huauchinango the following day and was planning on heading to Pahuatlán del Valle the following week. When I said that, he had a surprised look on his face and said: “Oh, ¿Pahuatlan tambien?” (Pahuatlan too?)
I wasn’t sure what to make of that reaction at first, but it dawned on me that Pahuatlán had to be one of the least visited pueblos magicos in Puebla, even for local tourists. I was right.
If you want to go off the beaten path in Puebla and visit this tiny magical town nestled high up in the Sierra Norte mountains, then this travel guide will tell you all you need to know to plan your trip.
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TABLE OF CONTENTS
MEXICO TOURIST CARD (FMM)
Depending on your passport, some people may need to secure a visa before entering Mexico. You can check iVisa.com for information on Mexico tourist visas.
Whether or not you need a tourist visa to visit Mexico, all visitors will still need an FMM (Forma Migratoria Múltiple) to be allowed entry into the country. Also known as a “tourist card”, you can get an FMM if you’re entering Mexico by air or by land.
People arriving by air are usually provided one by their airline (cost included in the airline ticket) while tourists driving into Mexico can get one at the border (with a fee).
You can also process the FMM ahead of time online through the INM website or iVisa.com. Click on the link to learn more about the FMM.
PAHUATLAN DEL VALLE AT A GLANCE
Pahuatlán del Valle is a small town and municipality located in the Sierra Norte region of central Mexico. It has a population of just over 20,000 people and was designated a pueblo magico (magical town) by Mexico’s Secretariat of Tourism in 2012.
The name Pahuatlán stems from the Nahuatl language and translates to “place of avocados” or “place of fruit”. Just under half of the population in the municipality is indigenous, divided between ethnic Nahua and ethnic Otomi people.
Culturally, Pahuatlán is best known for the production of amate bark paper and is one of the towns that claims to be the origin of the Danza de los Voladores. Amate paper is produced by the Otomis while the Danza de los Voladores is performed mainly by the Nahuas.
IS PAHUATLAN SAFE?
To be honest, Pahuatlan was the one pueblo magico I was most nervous to visit. I was nervous because I knew it was a small town that wasn’t used to seeing foreigners. I wasn’t sure how the locals would react to me but thankfully, no one paid me any attention. That instantly put me at ease.
Some states in Mexico have a reputation for being unsafe but for the most part, that isn’t the case with Puebla. If you do a search for the safest places in Mexico, then you’ll find Puebla mentioned in many lists. According to multiple sources, it’s one of the safest states in Mexico.
However, that doesn’t mean bad things can’t happen in Pahuatlan and Puebla. As long as you prioritize safety and observe the usual protocols – don’t wear anything flashy, be mindful of your surroundings, don’t wander alone at night, stay in populated areas, etc – then you should have nothing to worry about in Pahuatlán.
The US, Canada, and UK governments offer general Mexico travel advisories but I suggest watching the Puebla and Pahuatlán Tripadvisor forums too. If there are any recent events that merit your attention, then these forums are the first place you’ll learn about them.
BEST TIME TO VISIT PAHUATLAN
Like Zacatlan and other towns in the Sierra Norte region, Pahuatlán del Valle is known for its cool, damp, and foggy climate. The municipality is mostly humid throughout the year with temperatures hovering around 54-64°F (12-18°C).
I was in Pahuatlán in September which is one of the wettest times of the year. Luckily, it didn’t rain during the day but it did rain quite hard at night. During the day, the threat of a downpour was always looming over my head which made it a bit stressful to be hiking outside.
If you’d like to go when the chance of rain is historically at its lowest, then it’s best to go between December and March. Because of the steep terrain and wet weather, the area can be prone to landslides so this may be the safest time to go.
You can refer to Weather Spark for more on Pahuatlán’s weather.
HOW TO GET TO PAHUATLAN
There are no direct buses to Pahuatlan from Puebla City, but that doesn’t mean it’s difficult to get there. You just have to go through Tulancingo in Hidalgo state, which is the entryway into Pahuatlan. In fact, Pahuatlan is a weekend getaway destination for the residents of Tulancingo.
From Puebla City
BY BUS: From Puebla CAPU, you can take a Futura bus to Tulancingo. From there, you can purchase a minibus ticket to Pahuatlan from the Conexion counter. At the time of my visit (September 2022), the one-way Futura bus ticket to Tulancingo cost MXN 246.50 while the Conexion bus was MXN 35.
To get back to Puebla, I caught an early Conexion minibus from Pahuatlan to Tulancingo, then took a Futura bus to Puebla CAPU. If I remember correctly, minibuses to Tulancingo only run till around noon.
From Mexico City
BY BUS: I haven’t done this but according to Rome2Rio, you can catch a Conexion bus from Mexico City to Tulancingo, from either the Indios Verdes station or Central de Autobuses del Norte. From there, you can catch a Conexion minibus to Pahuatlan.
I was chatting with the ticket vendor at the Pahuatlan bus station and he told me that there’s a direct bus back to Mexico City, but it only runs once a week, on Sundays at 3PM. The cost is MXN 130.
From Other Pueblos Magicos
FROM HUAUCHINANGO: As long as you can get to Tulancingo, then you can get to Pahuatlan. When I was in Huauchinango, I saw Conexion buses going to Tulancingo. Huauchinango and Xicotepec de Juarez are close to each other so I assume you can catch them from Xicotepec as well.
By Rental Car
If you don’t have your own car but would prefer to drive yourself to Pahuatlan, then you can rent one through rentalcars.com.
WHERE TO STAY IN PAHUATLAN
This was another reason I was nervous about going to Pahuatlán del Valle. I usually book my hotels beforehand but I couldn’t do that in Pahuatlán. There were zero listings on Booking.com and Agoda and the few properties for rent on Airbnb were entire houses.
I could see on Google Maps that there were a couple of hotels in town so I took a leap of faith and went without pre-booking. Thankfully, I was able to get a room at Hotel Jardin without a hitch. It turned out to be a lovely and relaxing stay. Here’s a shot of the hotel’s second-floor hallway balcony.
Hotel Jardin room rates in September 2022 were as follows:
1 person – MXN 300
2 people – MXN 400
3 people – MXN 500
4 people – MXN 600
5 people – MXN 700
THINGS TO DO IN PAHUATLAN
1. Enjoy the Zocalo
Pahuatlán is the smallest pueblo magico in Puebla so there isn’t as much to do here, which is just fine. It’s the type of town that you visit to enjoy the atmosphere, and one of the best places to do that is the zocalo or main square.
I stayed just one night in Pahuatlán but I spent a good amount of that time just sitting and people-watching in the zocalo.
A fixture at most zocalos in Mexico is the kiosko or gazebo.
Another common feature is a church. You’ll typically find the biggest church in town right by the zocalo.
This volador pole, however, isn’t something you see at every zocalo. Like Cuetzalan and a few other towns, Pahuatlan del Valle claims to be the origin of the Danza de los Voladores.
The Danza de los Voladores is an ancient Mesoamerican ceremony where four participants dangle themselves by the feet and spin around the pole. Each spin unwinds the rope and lowers them a little until they reach the ground.
Performed mainly by the Nahuas in Pahuatlan, it’s believed that the tradition was started to ask the gods to end a severe drought.
I’ve seen the ritual performed a few times in other parts of Mexico but unfortunately, I wasn’t able to catch it in Pahuatlan. It would have been awesome to see it here.
2. Trek to the Hanging Bridge and Waterfalls
I’d say that the main attraction in Pahuatlan is a hanging bridge and waterfall a little over a mile (2 km) south of the zocalo. Shortly after having lunch, I typed in the destination on Google Maps and attempted to hike there myself. I never made it.
I didn’t make it for two reasons. One, it wasn’t easy to find. And two, the dark clouds were a constant worry and I didn’t want to be caught out in a downpour, so I made the decision to head back.
As it turns out, the bridge was closed for maintenance so I wouldn’t have made it there anyway. The nice lady at the Tourist Information Center told me. Bummer.
But I did make it to the river where I snapped this photo before making my way back.
It isn’t that easy to get to the hanging bridge so instead of trying to go there on your own, I highly recommend stopping by the Tourist Information Center first. It’s located right by the zocalo. Ask if they have a guide who can take you as that would be the safest way to go.
Google Maps led me down a path that clearly wasn’t for non-locals. I was nearly attacked by a pack of dogs and I would have been in serious trouble had it started raining. For those reasons, I don’t recommend trying to go to the hanging bridge on your own.
3. Enjoy the View From Mirador de Ahila
Mirador de Ahila is a lookout point about 5.6 miles (9 km) west of the zocalo. It’s said to offer amazing views of the valley. With the unpredictable weather, it was too far to walk there on my own so I decided to skip it.
If you’d like to, then I suggest going to the Tourist Information Center first and asking them how best to do it. If you don’t have a car, then they may be able to arrange transportation for you.
4. Buy Amate Paper Art
I forgot to take a picture before putting it in storage but I bought a small painting on amate paper as a souvenir (MXN 80). Amate refers to bark paper that’s made from a type of fig tree that grows in the region.
The creation of amate paper dates back to the pre-Hispanic period. The small town of San Pablito (in Pahuatlan municipality) is the main producer of amate in Mexico, but you’ll find plenty of shops around Pahuatlan’s zocalo that sell a variety of products made from amate paper.
5. Wander Around Town
As I said, there isn’t as much to do in Pahuatlan but I really didn’t mind. I enjoyed my stay because I appreciated the atmosphere of the town.
I explored the small town aimlessly during the day and sat on my hotel balcony in the early evening, observing the fog roll in and blanket everything around me in cottony white. It was uneventful but captivating, and therein lies the magic of this town.
POBLANO FOOD GUIDE
The state of Puebla is known for its food, which is why we decided to spend most of our time in Mexico there. You may be familiar with mole poblano and chiles en nogada but there are many other regional dishes that you should try. Be sure to check out our Puebla food guide so you don’t miss anything.
WHERE TO EAT IN PAHUATLAN
1. Fonda Guina
Fonda Guina is one of those restaurants in Mexico that makes you feel like you’re having a meal in someone’s home. They don’t have a menu. Instead, they’ll tell you what they have available that day.
I don’t remember what this was but it was a hearty beef stew served with potatoes, corn, and vegetables. Exactly the type of dish that abuela would make!
Fonda Guina is located up a hill away from the zocalo. It’s a little tiring to get there but the views are worth it.
You’ll be treated to a view of the zocalo and the surrounding valley while you enjoy a tasty homecooked meal. Can you spot the volador pole from here?
2. Qn’neutli
Located opposite Fonda Guina, Qn’neutli is a great place to enjoy coffee and dessert. The Sierra Norte region is known for its coffee so you can enjoy a cup of Mexican joe at this family-run cafe while digging into one of their home-baked cakes or pies.
Pictured below is my tasty tarta de manzana or apple pie. They offer many different types of cakes and pies that come in three sizes. This was the individual size.
You can’t see them in this picture but they have a few tables outside where you can enjoy the atmosphere and the view.
POINTS OF INTEREST IN PAHUATLAN
To help you find these landmarks and restaurants in Pahuatlan, I’ve pinned them all on this map. Click on the link for a live version of the map.
PAHUATLAN TRAVEL TIPS
1. Stay Connected with a Mexico Sim Card or eSIM
Having a reliable internet connection is a must in Mexico, especially when you’re visiting an off-the-beaten-path destination like Pahuatlan del Valle. Among all the networks in Mexico, Telcel is widely regarded as the best ISP while airalo is a trusted eSIM provider.
You can purchase a Telcel SIM card in Mexico but I highly recommend getting one before your trip through Amazon (affiliate link). It’ll come pre-loaded with 3GB of data so you’ll be connected and ready to go as soon as you land in Mexico.
If you have an eSIM-capable phone, then you may want to get an eSIM instead through airalo.
2. Learn Basic Spanish
Many people don’t speak English in Mexico so it helps to know a few basic phrases in Spanish:
Por favor: “Please”
(Muchas) gracias: “Thank you (very much)”
Buenos dias: “Good morning”
Buenas tardes: “Good afternoon”
Buenas noches: “Good evening”
Con permiso: “Excuse me” (when passing someone on the street)
Perdon/Desculpe: “Sorry” or “Excuse me” (when you didn’t hear what someone said)
¿Cuanto cuesta?: “How much does it cost?”
La cuenta por favor: “The bill please”
3. Bookmark the Puebla and Pahuatlan Forums on Tripadvisor
Safety can sometimes be a concern in Mexico depending on where you’re going. It’s important to stay informed and one of the best ways to do that is to watch the city forums on Tripadvisor. If there are any recent events that you need to know about, then chances are, you’ll read about them first in those forums.
Click on the links to check out the Tripadvisor travel forums for Puebla and Pahuatlán. These forums are frequented by locals and expats so it’s a great place to ask questions too.
4. Visit the Tourist Information Center and Go With a Guide
As advised, it’s a good idea to visit the Tourist Information Center shortly after arriving in Pahuatlan. I don’t recommend going to the hanging bridge, waterfalls, or Mirador Ahila on your own so it’s best to ask the people at the tourism office for advice. If they can provide a guide and/or transportation, then that would be ideal.
5. Bring Cash
Smaller pueblos magicos like Pahuatlan del Valle don’t have as many banks or ATM machines so it’s a good idea to bring enough cash with you.
6. Eat Dinner Early
Pahuatlan del Valle is a sleepy town where shops and restaurants close early. I made the mistake of waiting too late to go out for dinner and wound up feasting on a bag of Cheetos instead.
7. Don’t Drink Tap Water
Tap water isn’t safe to drink in Mexico so you should always buy bottled water or drink from a filtered water bottle. Even the locals don’t drink tap water here.
You don’t want to be stricken with diarrhea so check out my article on the drinking water in Mexico for more information.
8. Leave a Tip
While there is a tipping culture in Mexico, it seems to be observed more in larger cities that get a steady stream of foreign tourists. In smaller pueblos magicos like Pahuatlan, tipping doesn’t seem to be as expected (ie no tip jars).
Personally, I always leave a tip of around 10% of the total bill. You can read my article on tipping in Mexico for more information.
9. Get Travel Insurance
Getting travel insurance is a must when traveling, especially when you plan on doing outdoorsy stuff like hiking. Frankly, you never know what might happen on a trip.
For peace of mind, we get travel insurance from SafetyWing before every trip. Click on the link to learn more and get a free quotation.
10. Bring the Right Power Adapter
Mexico has Type A or Type B electrical outlets so be sure to bring the right power adapters for your devices. Electrical voltage is 127V and the standard frequency is 60Hz.
WHAT I LOVED ABOUT PAHUATLAN
Before you go, I just wanted to share some of the things that I personally loved about Pahuatlan del Valle:
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OUR TRAVEL GEAR
Here’s some of the travel equipment and gear I brought with me to Pahuatlan and Mexico. (Amazon affiliate links)
Disclosure
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