Everything you need to know about getting a perm

What to know before committing to the curls.

Ladies of the ’80s, we bet you never expected this one, but the perm is officially bouncing on back. Perhaps it’s a rejection of the prim-and-proper, Barbie doll-straight hair that’s been dominating social media and reality TV, or maybe there’s just a resurgence of volume-lovers who don’t want to spend hours in front of the mirror with a curling iron.

Whatever the reason, stylists are wiping the dust off their bottles of neutraliser and getting ready to ride that permanent wave.

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For those who are feeling curly-curious, we’ll save you the trouble of flipping through your mum’s old stack of fashion mags. Take a seat, because it’s time we get started with perm 101.

What is a perm, exactly? 

Essentially, the perming process changes the structure of your hair. Chemicals are applied that erase the original shape of your hair strands, and then more chemicals reform it into something new. 

What are the different types of perms? 

There are a few different ways to go about perming your hair. The ‘cold perm’ is the OG method. First, the hair is curled around rods, then an alkaline solution is poured over the top to break the bonds within your hair that hold its proteins together. After waiting around 20 minutes, neutraliser is added to reform the hair to the new shape.

The ‘hot perm’ is a little different. After an acidic bond-breaking solution is added, your stylist will curl your hair using heated rollers. Because the chemicals aren’t as strong, this process can take upwards of two hours, so make sure you pack a book. The more low-key chemicals used also make this a better choice for those with fragile hair. 

The ‘digital perm’ is the new kid on the block. It’s a version of a hot perm that uses technological prowess to ensure the temperature is just right for the look you’re after. The hair is curled using specialised heat rollers with the temperature regulated by a machine with a digital display. 

And if you’re picturing a frizzy Kath Day-Knight situation, think again. Sure, that’s one option, but all the stylist has to is change the rollers to dramatically switch up the shape of your perm.

Small rods will result in a tighter curl, whereas big rods will keep a bit more gentle. For a more customisable look, adjustable foam rods can be used to get the perfect perm. From kinky coils to a messy shag or loose beachy waves, the curl is your oyster. 

What you should know before getting a perm

On the big day, tell your stylist what you’re after, and they will take a look at the condition of your hair and let you know if it’s possible. Those with especially dry, dyed, or damaged hair might be denied a perm. If your stylist advises against it, please listen, as it could cause your hair to literally melt off (!). Perms work best on fine, virgin hair, so if your mane is on the thicker side, the process will take a bit longer and your perm might not hold as strongly. 

Those opting for a cold perm, we’ll warn you in advance: it doesn’t smell good. In fact, it stinks. Your eye may water. Your skull may tingle. Thankfully it’s over pretty quickly, and beauty is pain, as they say. It’s really not that bad, but the smell might linger in your hair for a few days afterwards, so that’s something to keep in mind. 

How long does a perm take? 

As touched on above, it depends on the type of perm you’re after. It’s best to set aside at least a few hours to ensure you have enough time for a proper consultation with your hairdresser, and that you leave with a perm that’s right for you. 

How much does a perm cost? 

If all of this has you scrambling to book a hair appointment, just make sure you’re ready to shell out some cash. A traditional cold perm will cost you $150 on average, and a hot perm or digital perm will be more like $250. It may seem like a lot, but it’s an investment in yourself!

How long does a perm last?

A perm treatment will typically last three to six months if properly cared for. When it’s all said and done, just make sure you follow your hairdresser’s aftercare regime with military precision and accuracy. Keep your hair dry for three days. 

As a straight-to-curly convert, you might feel an urge to brush your hair, but this is a big no-no. It will immediately frizz up and ruin your new shape.

Instead, keep your curls moisturised with a hydrating foam and scrunch them upwards. Also, avoid using heating tools for at least a week. The more you mess around with your perm, the more likely it is to give you trouble.

If you’re thinking, ‘hey, this isn’t the effortless hairstyle I signed up for!’, don’t worry. It’ll always be the most intense at first, but after the first week, you can cool it a bit with the maintenance. When your hair starts to relax, you’ll be able to achieve carefree curls straight out of the shower. And if you need a boost, a couple of crunches go a long way.