Many of us have spent the last two years mainly at home, and the pandemic has caused many of us to change our lifestyle. For the foodies and gourmands among us, we’ve tried to expand our culinary horizons even while in lockdown. This sense of fun and experimentation has continued as restrictions have eased and life has returned to some semblance of normal.
One way to add an extra dimension and depth to a meal is to pair dishes with beverages, be they wine or cocktails. Even the simplest entree can be transformed into a new experience with a perfect pairing.
Ernst Loosen hails from the current generation of the Loosen family, German winemakers known internationally for their rieslings and wines from the Mosel region. During his recent Asia-Pacific travels, he stopped by Thailand to host a fun wine masterclass at Villa Frantzén (recommended in MICHELIN Guide Thailand 2023).
We asked him for pro tips when pairing wine with Thai food. So, your next meal or party will be tastier and perhaps even the talk of the town…
Ernst Loosen in Bangkok. (© Paul Divina/ Villa Frantzén)
What should you consider when pairing a wine with a dish?
“Having wine with food makes things interesting. Drinking wine does more than add an element to the dining experience or make conversations more enjoyable. Wine can improve how food tastes. It can enhance, cut, or subdue flavours.“On the other hand, food can make wine taste better than if you were sipping a glass without it. When choosing a pairing, you must consider the food’s flavours. The dish should not overpower or destroy the wine’s character. The food plays as important a part as the wine in creating a pair.
“Let me give an example to clarify. Say your dinner includes a spicy dish, but you pair it with a chardonnay that has been aged in oak. And it is an interesting vintage. What happens when you take a sip after a mouthful? The wine will taste bitter, instead of expressing its more appealing notes, because the spices will react with the oak to create the bitterness. This is why it is so important to find out what a dish will taste like before you decide on a pairing.”
Care to try white wine with Thai food? (© Shutterstock)
Rieslings are known for their sweetness. Which ones would you recommend for everyday drinking?
“There are only a few grape varieties that can create wines with a wide range of sweetness. I can really only think of riesling and chenin blanc.“Riesling ranges from dry to ice or sweet wine. If you check the label, you can get a rough idea of what that bottle of riesling will taste like. There are three words you should look for -- kabinett (from grapes picked during the main harvest), spätlese (from grapes that are left to fully ripen, usually at least a week after the kabinett harvest), and auslese (from grapes that have ripened further and started to develop noble rot, which is a good fungus).
“These three words describe when the grapes were picked to make that wine. The longer you let them ripen, the sweeter the wine will be. Also, the higher the price, really. And when it comes to rieslings, there are other categories, but if you come across the word ‘auslese’, it means you have a sweet wine.
“But if you ask me which riesling is suitable for everyday drinking, without much thought, I would say look for a kabinett. It is a light-bodied, mildly tart, and with a sweetness from residual sugars for a balanced taste. Also, it has a low alcohol content, just 7.5-8.5%, so you can drink this riesling on any occasion.”
The German winemaker shares with us his personal tips. (© Paul Divina/ Villa Frantzén)
Which wines do you think pair best with Thai food?
“I say what better match is there than a white riesling with Thai food? Because rieslings come in different levels of sweetness, you can pair a different one to match each Thai dish without ever having to consider a red. Whether kabinett, spätlese, or auslese, they can blend well without being overpowered by the food while enhancing the dish’s flavours. There is nothing better than that.”
Can you give some favourite examples of Thai dishes paired with rieslings?
“I’ve been to Thailand many times and discovered Thai food’s complex flavours and spiciness. I’ve been in the wine industry a long time, but every time I pair wines with Thai food, I always turn to rieslings, because it makes life much easier.“Take, for example, the very popular Som Tam. To pair a riesling with it, I suggest a kabinett for a mild to medium spicy Som Tam and a spätlese for very spicy versions or those with crab or fermented fish.
“For Tom Yam, Tom Kha (galangal-coconut milk soup), or spicy curries, especially those from the South, you should pair with an auslese riesling, because that sweetness will tone down the spiciness well. Or if you have an old vintage riesling, this is a great opportunity to open a bottle up and pair it with the spicy food.
“For fish, Yam (Thai-style salads) that aren't too spicy, raw fish, or fresh seafood, a dry riesling is not a bad choice because the wine won’t overpower the food. Also, the wine adds a refreshing finish to enhance the flavours of these dishes.”
READ ALSO: Restaurant Secrets: How Thailand’s Best Restaurants Pair Food With Thai Spiced Rum
Illustration image: © Shutterstock
Illustration image: © Shutterstock
