Modernist cuisine at Home by Aaron Y

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Copyright ÂŠ 2012 by The Cooking Lab, LLC All rights reserved. Except as permitted under the U.S. Copyright Act of 1976, no part of this publication may be reproduced, distributed, or transmitted in any form or by any means, or stored in a database or retrieval system, without the prior written permission of the publisher. All trademarks used are property of their respective owners. The Cooking Lab 3150 l39th Ave SE Bellevue, WA 98005 www.modernistcuisine.com ISBN: 978-0-9827610-1-4 First ed ition, 2012 Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data available upon request Printed in China

MODERNIST CUISI~E

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Nathan Myhrvold with Maxime Bilet Photography by Nathan Myhrvold Melissa Lehuta and The Cooking Lab Photography Team

The Cooking Lab

Forewords Our Culinary Journeys The Story of This Book What Is Modernist Cuisine? About the Recipes

xii xiv xvii xviii XX

PART ONE: STOCKING THE MODERNIST KITCHEN Chapterl: Countertop Tools

Invaluable Modernist Tools Digital Scales Digital Thermometers Silicone Mats and Molds Microplanes Blenders and Food Processors Mixers and Frothers Ice-Cream Makers Ice Cream in a Flash Blowtorches Jaccard Tenderizers Injectors Sieves and Strainers Whipping Siphons Juicers Dehydrators

6 7 8 9

Chapter 2: Conventional Cooking Gear Stoves Pots and Pans Pressure Cookers A Buyer's Guide to Pressure Cookers Cooking Under Pressure Conventional Ovens The Household Stove CombiOvens Ways to Use a Camhi Oven Microwave Ovens Ways to Use a Microwave Oven Making Waves Grills Hot as Hell

Chapter 3: Cooking So us Vide Four Simple Steps Getting the Air Out Bags, Rigid Containers, and Jars Vacuum Sealers Solutions for Common Sealing Problems Cooking and Reheating Water Baths Improvised Water Baths

Chapter 4: Ingredients

Unusual Ingredients Not Your Parents' Supermarket Take a Walk on the Wild Side Unusual Fruits and Vegetables Foraged Foods: Autumn and Spring

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48 so 52 53

54 57

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PART TWO: THE RECIPES Chapter 5: Basics Stocks Pressure-Cooked White Chicken Stock Brown Chicken Stock Pressure-Cooked Brown Beef Stock Brown Pork Stock White Beef Stock Sous Vide Fish Stock Brown Fish Stock Pressure-Cooked Crustacean Stock Vegetable Stock Pressure-Cooked Vegetable Stock Brown Vegetable Stock Toasted Corn Stock MushroomJus Brown Chicken Jus Brown BeefJus Game Bird Jus Home Jus Gras Ultrastable Butter Sauce Sauces Thickening with Wondra Redeye Gravy Red Wine Glaze Solutions to Common Problems When Thickening and Gelling Onion Fluid Gel Egg-Yolk Fluid Gel Pressure-Cooked Drippings Caramelized Onion Gravy Pistachio Pesta Spinach Pesta Cilantro Pes to Chervil, Thyme, and Scallion Pesta Roasted Red Pepper Pesta Green Onion and Sorrel Pesta Sauce Verte Mughal Curry Sauce Kerala Curry Sauce Muslim Curry Sauce Sous Vide Hollandaise Crustacean Hollandaise Garlic Hollandaise Spicy Hollandaise Modernist Mayonnaise Aioli Bacon Mayonnaise Rouille Tartar Sauce MC Special Sauce Pressure-Caramelized Ketchup Barbecue Ketchup Salsa Verde Pressure-Caramelized Peanut Sauce Marinara Pizza Sauce Tomato Sofrito Bolognese Pineapple Marinara Strawberry Marinara Thai Sweet, Sour, and Savory Glaze

83 84 84 85 86 86 86 87 87 88 89 89 89 90 91 92 92 92 93 93 94 95 96 97 99 100 100 101 101 102 103 103 103 103 103 103 104 104 104 106 106 106 106 108 108 108 108 108 109 llO llO Ill Ill ll2

112 112 112 ll2

114 115

Oils and Fats Sous Vide Lemon Herb Oil Modernist Vinaigrette Cilantro Vinaigrette Sesame Dressing Vietnamese-Style Dressing Spiced Chili Dressing Cherry Vinaigrette Fines Herbes Vinaigrette with Pistachio Butter Sous Vide Spiced Chili Oil Pressure-Cooked Spiced Chili Oil Garlic Oil Lemon Oil Basic Chili Oil Ginger Oil Vanilla Oil Rosemary Oil Thyme Oil Montpellier Butter Stove-Top Carotene Butter Bell Pepper, Spinach, Coffee, and Porcini Butters Pressure-Cooked Crustacean Butter So us Vide Crustacean Butter Pressure-Cooked Lobster Bisque Pressure-Rendered Chicken Fat Condiments Grilled Applesauce Pressure-Cooked Pickled Mustard Seeds Pressure-Cooked Garlic Con fit Proven~al Garlic Confit Mediterranean Vegetable Con fit Fingerling Potatoes Con fit Pressure-Caramelized Onions Dried Caramelized Onions French Onion Soup Tomato Confit Tomato Leather Mango Chili Leather Fruit Leather Onion Leather Vacuum-Pickled Vegetables Vacuum-Infused Celery Pressure-Infused Celery Waldorf Salad Brines and Marinades Sweet Brine for Meats Basic Brine for Whole Poultry Savory Poultry Brine Fish Brine Seaweed Fish Brine Fish Cure Marinades Kalbi Marinade Vietnamese Marinade Mediterranean Yogurt Marinade Mexican Marinade Barbecue Marinade Spice Mixes MCCurry Powder Vindaloo Spice Mix Chaat Mas ala Fish Spice Mix Autumn Spice Mix Chili Spice Mix Grilling Spice Mix

116 116 117 117 117 117 117 117 117 118 118 118 118 118 118 118 118 118 120 121 121 122 122 122

123 124 124 125

126 126 126 126 127 127 127 128 129 129 129 129 130 131 131 131 132 132 133 133 133 133 133 134 134 134 134 134 134 135 135 135 136 137 138 138 139

Chapter 6: Breakfast Eggs Egg Textures French Scrambled Eggs Scrambled Egg Pudding Olive Oil Scrambled Eggs Mini Egg Cups Omelet Fillings Florentine Omelet Filling Alsatian Omelet Filling Espagnole Omelet Filling Raviolo Omelet Filling Steamed Herb Omelet Striped Mushroom Omelet Mushroom Puree Cream of Mushroom Soup Shiitake Marmalade Eggs Sunny-Side Up Deviled Eggs

Chapter 7: Salads and Cold Soups Raspberry Gazpacho Fruit Minestrone Strawberry Panna Cotta Fruit Salad Cheese Course Strawberry Juice with Green Apple Foam Modernist Vichyssoise Vichyssoise with Potato Peel Reduction Roasted-Potato Vichyssoise Sweet Onion Slaw Composing a Great Salad Green Salad with Romaine Dressing Herb and Romaine Broth Beet Salad Parmesan Crisp Pressure-Cooked Quinoa Salad with Cauliflower Pressure-Cooked Chickpea Salad So us Vide Tuna Confit Tuna Con fit Salad and Tuna Melt Sandwich Pressure-Cooked Lentil Salad

Chapter 8: Pressure-Cooked Vegetable Soups Caramelized Carrot Soup Caramelized Carrot Puree Other Pressure-Cooked Vegetable Soups and Purees Squash Soup Artichoke Soup Mushroom Soup Cauliflower Soup Leek and Onion Soup Pressure-Caramelized Banana Puree Apple and Parsnip Soup Bell Pepper Soup Broccoli- Gruyere Soup Corn Soup Pressure-Cooked Vegetable Jus Pressure-Cooked Vegetables Pressure-Cooked Barley Barley Salad Vegetable Stew Seasonal Herb Garnishes

141 142 144 144 144 144 145 145 145 145 145 146 148 150 150 151 152 152

155 156 158 161 161 161 161 162 163 163 165 166 168 168 168 169 170

172 174 174 175

177 178 179 180 180 180 180 180 181 181 181 181 181 181 182 183 184 184 185 185

Chapter 9: Steak

186

Cuts of Steak Grades of Meat Premium Varieties of Beef Cooking Steak Sous Vide Steak Low-Temp Oven Steak Frozen Steak Sous Vide Steak in a Cooler Creamed Spinach South Indian Watercress Grilled Steak Grilled Pork Chop So us Vide Lamb Skewers

188 190 191 192 194 196 197 198 199 199 200 202 203

Chapter 10: Cheeseburger

204

Modernist Hamburger Patty Firm Burger Patty White Sandwich Bread Modernist Cheeseburger Ultrafrothy Milk Shake Modernist Meatloaf Sandwich

Chapter 11: Carnitas Pressure-Cooked Carnitas Achiote Paste Sous Vide Carnitas Whole Shoulder Other Braised Meat and Poultry Dishes Lamb Leg Tajine Pork Shoulder Fricasee with Apples and Morels Pork Vindaloo with Naan Korean Short-Rib Lettuce Wraps Braised Duck with Steamed Buns Pressure-Cooked Chicharr6n Refried Bean Foam Refried Bean Puree Other Bean Foams Pressure-Cooked Pork Belly Adobo Sous Vide Pork Belly Adobo

Chapter 12: Braised Short Ribs Braised Short Ribs Potato Puree Infused-Cream Potato Puree Garlic Mashed Potatoes Sweet Potato Puree Pork Belly B.L.T. Pressure-Cooked Pork Belly Smoked Bacon B.L.T. Lamb Curry Pressure-Cooked Lamb Shanks Whole Lamb Shank

Chapter 13: Roast Chicken Roast Chicken Pincushion Chicken Extra-Juicy Chicken Deep-Fried Chicken Spatchcock Chicken Combi Oven Roast Chicken Slow-Baked Chicken with Onions So us Vide Chicken Turkey Con fit So us Vide Turkey Breast

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214

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226 229 230 230 230 230 232 232 232 234 234 234

237 238 241 241 241 241 241 242 244 246 247

Chapterl4: Chicken Wings Sous Vide Buffalo Wings Crispy Chicken Wings, Korean-Style Crispy Skinless Chicken Wings Puffed Chicken Skin Boneless Yakitori Wings Buffalo Sauce Honey Mustard Sauce Yakitori Sauce Korean Wing Sauce Blue Cheese Sauce Aerated Blue Cheese Sauce Chinese Garlic Chili Condiment Skewers Pesto Chicken Thighs Korean Pork Belly Deep-Fried Tsukune Chicken Skin Yakitori Tsukune Lamb Skewers with Mint Yogurt Chicken Breast Satay Beef Short Ribs with Shiitake Marmalade Filet Mignon with Montpellier Butter

249 250 252 254 254 256 258 259 260 260 261 261 261 262 262 262 262 262 263 263 263 263 263

ChapterlS: Chicken Noodle Soup

264

Aromatic Chicken Broth Other Aromatic Broths and Soups Pho Soup Thai Soup Goulash Broth Chinese Soup Tortilla Soup Fresh Egg Noodles Dressed Noodles Potato Noodles Rye Noodles Masa Harina Noodles Barley Noodles Coconut Noodles Whole Wheat Noodles Rice Noodles Pressure-Cooked Carrots and Leeks Chicken Noodle Soup

266 267 267 267 267 267 267 268 270 270 270 270 271 271 271 271

Chapterl6: Salmon Fragrant Sous Vide Salmon Crispy Fish Skin Baked Fish Skin Chips Crispy Chicken or Pork Skin Selecting Salmon

Chapter 17: Shellfish Lobster Roll Shrimp or Crab Roll Sous Vide Lobster Tail Mussels Mariniere Clams in Chowder Sauce Oyster Stew Pistachio Clam Chowder South of France Chowder Sous Vide Braised Snails

272

273

274 276 279 279 279 280

282 288 288 288 290 292 292 292 292 293

Chapter 18: Pizza Neapolitan Pizza Dough Quinoa Pizza Dough Buckwheat Pizza Dough Breadsticks Garlic Knots "Everything" Pretzels Cinnamon-Sugar Doughnut Holes Rustic Pizza Dough Whole Wheat Pizza Dough Poolish No-Knead Pizza Dough Pizza Stones, Plates, and Pans Classic Pizza Variations Napolitana, Funghi, and Hawaiian Pizzas Pizza Margherita Oven-Fried Pizza Deep-Dish Fried Pizza Pizza Toppings Broccoli Raab, Genovese, and Capicola Pizzas Uovo and Finocchiona Pizzas Pizza Cruda

Chapter 19: Mac and Cheese Mac and Cheese Mac with Jack and Stilton Mac with Sharp Cheddar and Swiss Mac with Gorgonzola and Fontina Mac and Gruyere Mac with Goat Gouda and Cheddar Broccoli with Cheese Sauce Fondue Baked Mac and Cheese "Fat-Free" Mac and Cheese Mac and Fontina Mac and Parmesan Mac and Cheddar Cheese Crisps Cheese Crumble Perfectly Melting Cheese Slice Grilled Cheese Sandwiches Aged White Cheddar on Sourdough with Apples Camembert and Gruyere on Brioche with Ham and Mushrooms Feta on Potato Bread with Vegetable Con fit Goat Cheese on Baguette with Tomato Con fit and Basil Stilton on Walnut Bread with Shallot Marmalade

Chapter 20: Risotto and Paella Cooking Grains Pressure-Cooked Paella del Bosco Vegetable Risotto Pressure-Cooked Risotto Risotto and Paella Variations Forbidden Rice with Squid Ink and Sous Vide Clams Arborio Rice with Caramelized Squash and Saffron Barley with Wild Mushrooms and Red Wine Steel-Cut Oats with Sous Vide Braised Snails Farro with Chicken, Artichokes, and Black Olives Quinoa with Pistachio Pesto and Asparagus Bomba Rice with Chorizo and Broccoli-Gruyere Puree Arborio Rice with Sea Urchin and Cocoa

295 296 296 296 296 297 297 297 298 298 299 300 301 303 303 304 305 305 306 306 307 307

308 310 310 310 310 310 310 310 310 312 314 314 314 314 315 316 317 318 318 318 319 319 319

320 324 326 328 329 330 330 330 331 331 332 332 333 333

Chapter 21: Cornm ea l Pressure-Cooked Polenta Corn Juice Grits Shrimp and Grits Cheese Grits Pressure-Cooked Fresh-Corn Tamales Corn Juice Tamales Hush Puppies

Chapter 22: Dishes for the Microwave Microwaved Eggplant Parmesan Sichuan Bok Choy Bok Choy Medley Autumn Flavors Bok Choy Microwaved Potato Salad Microwaved Black Cod with Scallions and Ginger Microwaved Sea Bass, Tilapia, Halibut, or Sole Aromatic Microwaved Cod Microwaved BeefJerky Spicy Jerky Smoky Jerky BiltongJerky Crispy Beef Strands Crispy Beef and Shallot Salad Crispy Shallots Microwave-Fried Parsley Instant Chocolate Sponge Peanut Butter Sponge Sesame Sponge Raspberry Macadamia Nut Sponge

Cha pter 23: Custards and Pies Making Custard Coffee Creme Bnilee Pot de Creme Bain-Marie Creme Brulee Flan Lemon Posset Sous Vide Lemon Curd Fruit Curds Foamed Lemon Curd Raspberry Panna Cotta FruitJellies Vegetarian Panna Cotta Sous Vide Vanilla Creme Anglaise Sabayon Pistachio Gelato H azelnut Gelato Strawberry Macadamia Gelato P. B.&]. Gelato Flaky Pie Crust Double Almond, Brown Butter, Gingerbread, Peanut, Carrot, Cheese, Coconut, Raspberry, and Chocolate Crusts Sous Vide Vanilla-Cinnamon Pastry Cream Firm, Amaretto, Lemon, Coconut, Ginger, Cheese, Pressure-Infused Coffee, and Chocolate Pastry Creams Pie Toppings Apple Foam Passion Fruit Glaze Cocoa Nib and Cardamom Dust Blowtorched-Caramelized Bananas Caramelized Almonds Freeze-Dried Raspberry Powder Cream Pies Almond and Cherry, Ginger, Coconut, and Chocolate Cream Pies Banana, Apple, Savory Cheese, and Raspberry Lemon Cream Pies

335 336 337 338 338 340 340 340

342 344 346 346 346 346 348 348 348 350 350 350 350 352 353 353 354 356 357 357 357

358 360 362 362 362 362 364 365 365 365 366 366 366 368 369 370 370 370 370 372 372 374 375 376 376 376 376 377 377 377 378 378 379

Further Reading Glossary of Cooking Terms Reference Tables Contributors Acknowledgments and Photo Credits Step by Step Procedures and Tables of Best Bets Index

IV XII XXIV XXVI XXVII XXIV

Foreword When Nathan asked me to write the foreword to his newest tome, I was flattered, of course, but also

sauce to carrot soup, from hamburgers to roast

apprehensive that I would not have time to try enough of the recipes, or leisure enough to read

In the Middle Ages, Nathan Myhrvold would have been called "Nathan the Curious." Today he

this impressive, large volume of recipes, tech-

is being hailed as the man who became a chef via science, whose eyes were opened to the infinite

niques, and suggestions for a new way to cook at home. I had already looked through Modernist Cuisine: The Art and Science of Cooking-an amaz-

possibilities of cuisine and flavors by other food pioneers like Marc Veyrat, Ferran Adria, and

ing, encyclopedic cookbook in six volumes that was published in 2011, and I had also cooked with

Heston Blumenthal.

Nathan and his impressive staff in his laboratory, outside Seattle, where the books are created.

The Cooking Lab and hired an impressive team oflike-minded, highly qualified chefs who

Upon further investigation and after a lot more

Nathan was so inspired, in fact, that he built

mastered a whole new batterie de cuisine: from

studying, I became completely hooked on the contents of that book, and also happy that Nathan

sous vide vacuum sealers, water baths, and combi ovens to centrifuges, ultrasonic homogenizers,

had decided to distill the very essence of the big book into a smaller volume for the home-cooking

have now found ways to realize the power of many

and rotary evaporators. Equally impressive, they

enthusiast. It is a pleasure to introduce a wider

of those precision cooking techniques in home

set of readers to Nathan and Modernist Cuisine

kitchens that don't have a lot of fancy equipment.

at Home.

Items our mothers or grandmothers used regularly, like the pressure cooker, have been dusted off and

When I first met Nathan, he was still working as the chief technology officer at Microsoft. Having already earned his fortune, he was then building an incredibly eclectic home on Lake Washington,

put back to use as thoroughly modern tools. Nathan and his team also applied their curiosity

designing much of it and its contents himself. As

and willingness to experiment to the pantry. He looked beyond the familiar offerings of traditional

I toured his fabulous kitchen one day, I discovered that Nathan, a very well-educated scientist

grocery stores and added agar, xanthan gum, sodium citrate, and liquid lecithin to his shelves.

proficient in several highly technical fields, was at

These new ingredients can solve problems that

heart a true foodie-one whom any other foodie could relate to on many different levels.

home cooks face every day.

The kitchen that Nathan had created in his home was hardly an ordinary home kitchen. It contained a machine that freezes food in

Modernist Cuisine at Hom e is destined to change

the way we cook-and the way we use recipes. I do believe that we will become more question-

20 seconds, another machine that thaws food

ing of the way we prepare foods. We will wonder: Is this the best way to make mac and cheese?

in 30 seconds, a computer-controlled smoker that can barbecue a whole hog perfectly, as well

Will the bechamel, thickened with flour, yield the most delicious macaroni, or should I pick up

as convection ovens, induction burners, walk-in

that emulsifier called sodium citrate, and use

refrigerators, and a machine that makes perfect

that instead? And why shouldn't I be cooking all

ice cream in the blink of an eye. It was the kitchen of a scientist, the laboratory

grains under pressure in a fraction of the time? For all of us who cook regularly, this book opens

of an insatiably curious man who is on a mission

up a whole new world of possibilities. It is full of

to reinvent the way we cook food and think about food. It was in this kitchen that Nathan began his

insights that encourage us to try something new, and that teach us something on every single page.

journey to develop an entirely new way to consider ingredients, technology, and artistry in the preparation of the food we all eat and love, from tomato

xii

chicken.

Martha Stewart Martha Stewart Living Omnimedia May 2012

Foreword For many of us, our love of cooking is born in

It seems natural, and nearly philanthropic, that

an early memory that never leaves us and spurs

Nathan's next step has been to write a version

a desire to establish a culinary path for ourselves

that is accessible for the home cook. It is often the

from a young age. Nathan Myhrvold's culinary

case that scientific advances made for industrial

trek has been more direct and distinct in recent

operations make their way slowly but surely to

years, but that same seed was planted long ago, well

the home kitchen: one need look no further for an

before his successes in business. Even though he

example than the ubiquitous microwave oven. In

is one of those rare and gifted intellectuals in the

its incipient form, the commercially available oven

world of mathematics and technology-and his

weighed in at over 700 pounds and stood as tall

achievements in these fields are extraordinary-

as a full-grown man. Through the years, not only

Nathan's childhood dream never wavered, and his

did the dimensions of microwave ovens become

love for the culinary arts has led him back to carve

significantly smaller, but they also became more

his own course toward his vision and version of it.

efficient. Today, this appliance is a staple in nearly

Throughout the process of his research on

every home.

Modernist Cuisine, Nathan and I were engaged in

Nathan's work has followed the same process.

numerous dialogues to discuss my work as a chef.

Here he has been successful in distilling the origi-

Our conversations culminated with a more-than-

nal Modernist Cuisine into something that is more

gracious invitation to dinner at his test kitchen

user-friendly and practical for daily use-not

just outside Seattle after the book was published.

to mention that it comes in a form that no longer

It was an extremely memorable evening spent

challenges the weight of the first microwave ovens.

with his coauthors and chefs Chris Young and

Modernist Cuisine at Home offers useful techniques

Maxime Bilet, and I left inspired as I familiarized

and solutions that expand our abilities, and it

myself with his viewpoints on food and cooking

provides us with a practiced and thorough under-

techniques. After that dinner and further reading of his

standing of why things happen the way they do. Most importantly, it ignites a curiosity within

work, it became obvious that our entire profession

and compels us to ask ourselves not "What should

would be forever indebted to Nathan's contribu-

we make for dinner?" but rather, "What can we

tions and dedication to the Modernist Cuisine

make for dinner?" Not since Harold McGee wrote

project. He has pushed the envelope in his research

On Food and Cooking have we been offered such a

and recipe development, and he has put his ever-

clear and concise scientific approach to guide us.

inquisitive mind to great use for our benefit. His

Nathan's sense of fun and wonderment in discov-

formulas, documentation of procedures, and tech-

ery are ever present, and they call for us to leave

niques have resulted in the most extensive cover-

our comfort zones and try something new. While

age on progressive cuisine today, using tools and

his points of view are novel to most for now, I have

equipment that we would not have ever thought

no doubt whatsoever that these will be embraced

to marry with cooking in the past.

as common practice in home kitchens in the very

More important, the set of reference books that he produced has allowed our profession to evolve

near future . I can readily and happily see that Modernist Cuisine at Home will provide another

in a more uniform way. Those who have read his

quantum leap in our understanding and in our

books have witnessed a major step in the world of

relationship with the food we like to cook.

cooking-something that rarely occurs in a single

Thomas Keller

generation. He didn't just raise the bar when his

The French Laundry

highly anticipated book set finally came to print

May2012

in 2011, he brought it to a new plateau. He and his team had set a new standard.

Our Culinary Journeys I have always loved food, and when I was nine

up was acquired by another software company:

library. I promptly announced to my mother that

Microsoft. Within a couple years, I was working

I was going to cook Thanksgiving dinner. Amaz-

directly for Bill Gates, and in time I became

ingly, she let me do the cooking, including nearly

Microsoft's first chief technology officer. The job

setting the dining table on fire. I was hooked.

was demanding, and I had less time for cooking

I got more books from the library and started to learn about cooking. I soon discovered Escoffier's

than ever. I did manage to take short leaves from Microsoft to cook as an apprentice at Rover's,

Le Guide Culinaire and pored over it, along with

a great French restaurant in Seattle run by chef

books by Julia Child,James Beard, Richard Olney,

Thierry Rautureau, and then attend La Varenne,

and other authors of classic cookbooks about

a professional culinary school in France. After

French cuisine. My interest in cooking was so strong that I might have become a chef, had my interest in other things-particularly math and science-

retiring from Microsoft in 1999 at age 40, I was determined to spend more time in the kitchen. I began learning about a new trend in experimental cooking techniques, which led to my

not intervened. I was very good at school and

first cookbook, Modernist Cuisine: The Art and

often skipped grades, to the point that I started

Science of Cooking. My coauthors Chris Young,

college at age 14. Every topic related to math

Maxime Bilet, and I, along with the rest of our

and science fascinated me, so by the time I was

team, created a six-volume, 2,438-page cookbook

finished with school, I had quite a collection

that aimed to be the definitive resource on the

of degrees: a Ph.D. in mathematical physics, a

history, techniques, and ideas behind this

master's degree in economics, another master's

culinary revolution.

degree in geophysics and space physics, and a

Now we've turned our attention to writing this

bachelor's degree in mathematics. By that point

book, which explores using the techniques from

I was 23 years old. My next step was to become

Modernist Cuisine in a home kitchen. Our goal

a postdoctoral fellow at Cambridge University,

is to broaden the number of people who can use

where I worked with Dr. Stephen Hawking on

these ideas and to encourage making Modernist

the quantum theory of gravitation. My career

cooking part of their daily lives.

in science was off to a roaring start. Life takes unexpected twists and turns,

If circumstances had been different, I might be a chef today. But I am not unhappy with the

however. Partway through my fellowship with

way things turned out. I have derived enormous

Stephen, I decided to take a summer off to work

enjoyment from cooking and eating over the

on a software project with some friends from

years. Ultimately, my strange culinary journey

graduate school. By the end of the summer,

has given rise to both Modernist Cuisine and

venture capitalists had expressed interest in our

Modernist Cuisine at Home-a way to make a

project, so I extended my leave of absence. We

contribution of my own to the world of cooking.

incorporated the project as a start-up company,

xiv

and I became the CEO. Two years later, the start-

years old, I discovered cookbooks on a visit to the

Nathan Myhrvold

When I was two years old, I put my family in peril

Through a series of events, I ended up in a non-

in the name of chaco/at chaud. I escaped from my

descript laboratory in Bellevue, Washington, full

room in the middle of the night, found a pot, milk,

of fascinating inventors and a level of technology

some Nesquik, and a stool to climb on, but alas

that leant itself to a huge realm of possibilities.

could find no matches. And so the gas began filling

This led to my becoming head chef of the Modern-

the apartment as I pondered my next culinary

ist Cuisine project and ultimately a coauthor of

venture. Fortunately, tragedy was averted that

both that book and Modernist Cuisine at Home,

night, but my sense for culinary exploration

as well as an inventor on 10 patents. I spent three

was left uncompromised. Our family had a great

years building our culinary team, managing

passion for sharing good food, and they inspired

research, and working to define the unique visual

me to communicate through creative cooking.

style of the book. It was an extraordinary and

My grandfather was a gourmand par excellence who regaled us with stories of his experiences of

insightful journey. Since Modernist Cuisine was published in 2011,

great restaurants, secret wine cellars, and obscure

I have traveled the world sharing and demonstrat-

chocolatiers. To him, food was a philosophy: "the

ing the insights of Modernist cooking at many

essence of existence," he would exclaim before

schools and at culinary symposiums at New York

a feast of Gillardeau No.2 and cold Chablis. He

University, McGill University, Paris des Chefs,

demonstrated the joys to be found in living with

and Madrid Fusion. We and our hugely talented

an open mind and an adventurous palate. I began to cook seriously while studying art and

culinary team have cooked for culinary leaders, television audiences, and journalists to show that

literature in college. My friends and parents were

our food is as delicious as it is fascinating and

patient guinea pigs as I experimented with recipes

beautiful.

selected from my ever-growing collection of cook-

With the critical and public success of Modernist

books. Looking back at those early days, I cringe

Cuisine, it was time to think about The Cooking

at some of my interpretations of gastronomy. But

Lab's next big project. Having made such tre-

the creative freedom was alluring, and soon I was

mendous culinary progress during our work on

catering dinners and small parties.

Modernist Cuisine, we now wanted to adapt those

Having just graduated from Skidmore College,

techniques to make them accessible to passionate

I spent a few months at The Institute of Culinary

cooks of all levels. Modernist Cuisine at Home

Education, which led to a two-month externship

offered us the wonderful opportunity to update

with Allison Vines-Rushing and Slade Rushing

classic home dishes and to experiment with im-

at Jack's Luxury Oyster Bar, where they were serv-

provised methods that enable anyone to produce

ing very refined Southern food. The Rushings re-

terrific results.

turned to Louisiana shortly after I began to work there, so Jack Lamb, one of the great restaurateurs

I want to share my gratitude with everyone who has been deeply connected to making Modernist

of New York, introduced me to the wild world

Cuisine and Modernist Cuisine at Home possible.

of running a professional restaurant. Who knows

Thank you so much Kathryn Suerth Holmes, Gary

what he was thinking-I was only 22-but I

Holmes, Mom, Dad, Sis, Albane, Marcus, Mamie,

embraced the challenges of being a head chef.

Papie,John,Alina, Noelle, Jonathan, Katy, and the

After a year at Jack's, I moved to London to fur-

entire MC and MCAH teams (see page XXIV).

ther hone my skills. For a few months, I staged at

I hope this book will be approachable, useful,

The Fat Duck with Heston Blumenthal and the

and inspiring to home cooks and chefs everywhere

development team in his lab to create new dishes

in expanding the possibilities of healthy, flavorful,

for the restaurant and to work on his last Perfection

and creative cooking.

series book. Heston's exploration of clever flavor

MaximeBilet

combinations and new ways of presenting and refining food had a profound influence on me.

THE STORY OF THIS BOOK When it comes to cooking techniques, the classics are well covered. But the latest and greatest tech-

Although we kept Modernist Cuisine in the title, this new book is not a condensed version of its

niques, developed by the most innovative chefs

predecessor. If you want to learn about food safety,

in the world, were largely undocumented until we

microbiology, the history of foie gras cultivation,

and Chris Young, along with the rest of our team,

or hundreds of other topics, Modernist Cuisine is

published Modernist Cuisine: Th e Art and Science of

still the book to turn to.

Cooking in 2011. At six volumes and 2,438 pages, it

This book focuses on cooking equipment,

wasn't an ordinary cookbook. Many people were

techniques, and recipes. Part One details tools,

skeptical that it would interest a wide audience.

ingredients, and cooking gear that we think are

As it turned out, Modernist Cuisine sold out

worth having. Equipment once available only

of its first printing within weeks; it is now in its

to professional chefs or scientists is now being

fourth printing. The book has been translated

manufactured for the home kitchen; we encourage

into French, German, and Spanish. It has been

you to try it. But we also show you how to get by

reviewed in thousands of news articles. Long

without fancy appliances, such as how to cook fish

discussion threads about the book on the eGullet

sous vide in your kitchen sink and how to cook

Internet forum have been viewed more than

steak in a picnic cooler.

300,000 times. We often get the question "Isn't this book only

Part Two contains 406 recipes, all of which are new. In some cases, we took popular Modernist

for professionals?" The answer is no; we wrote

Cuisine recipes-Caramelized Carrot Soup (see

and designed Modernist Cuisine for anybody who

page 178), Mac and Cheese (see page 310), and

is passionate and curious about cooking. As hun-

Striped Mushroom Omelet (see page 148)-and

dreds ofblogs and forum postings show, many

developed simpler versions. In general, the food is

amateurs have embraced the book. Of the 1,500

less formal; you'll find recipes for Crispy Skinless

or so recipes in it, probably half could be made in

Chicken Wings (see page 254) and Grilled

any home kitchen. That number rises to perhaps

Cheese Sandwiches (see page 318).

two-thirds or three-quarters for those willing to

What's the same as Modernist Cuisine is our

buy some new equipment (for cooking sous vide,

focus on quality in both the information in the

for example). The remaining recipes are indeed challenging-

book and in the way it is presented. You'll find stunning cutaways of equipment, step-by-step

even for professionals. We felt that many food

photos for most recipes, and ingredients measured

enthusiasts would like to be on the front lines of

in grams (because every serious cook should

culinary innovation and get a chance to under-

have a scale). We use the same high-quality paper,

stand the state of the art, even if they couldn't

printing, and binding that we did for Modernist

execute every recipe. At the same time, we realized that we had the right team and resources to bring the Modernist

Cuisine. The kitchen manual is again printed on

washable, waterproof paper. We hope that in following the vision we set out

cuisine revolution to an even wider audience of

to accomplish with our first book, we have created

home cooks by developing less complex recipes

a great experience for home chefs who want an

that require less expensive equipment. The result

introduction to Modernist cuisine.

is this book, Modernist Cuisine at Hom e.

X V

WHAT IS MODERNIS T CUISINE? What is Modernist cuisine? This is the single most common question we are asked. When writing our previous book, Modernist Cuisine: The Art and

cal principles for the conceptual creations of Walter Gropius and Le Corbusier, Igor Stravinsky

Science of Cooking, we arrived at the term because

explored discordance in his symphonies, and

it most completely captured the impetus and the cultural significance of the revolution that was

Martha Graham broke with the conventions of classical ballet to help create modern dance.

underway in the culinary arts, a revolution that our book chronicled and is now helping to propel. Much like the Modernist movements that transformed fine art, architecture, dance, music, and other cultural disciplines throughout the

Yet while these revolutions were transforming so many areas of art and popular culture in the last century, people were mostly still eating the same old-fashioned, traditional food. The first glimmers of a transformation in the kitchen did not begin

from groundbreaking work by top professional chefs, but it is quickly becoming a strong influence

to appear until Nouvelle cuisine gained traction as a named movement in the 1970s. Nouvelle cooking was a reaction against the rigidity of

on popular culture as well.

classical French cuisine, as codified in the works

20th century, Modernism in cuisine first emerged

In cooking, "Modernist" means basically what it does when it is applied to other areas of the arts. Modernists replace the style and tradition of the preindustrial era with a new aesthetic that embraces abstraction and modern technologies or ideas in order to create genuinely new experiences.

of La Varenne, Can!me, and Escoffier. Although not a fully Modernist approach, Nouvelle cuisine was nevertheless very controversial at first in its emphasis on lightness, simplicity, and new ingredients, and in its introduction of the concept of plated dishes, which granted chefs control

This deliberate rejection of the rules and realism of the past can be seen in the paintings of Monet,

over almost every aspect of the presentation of

Picasso, and other giants oflmpressionism, whose work was initially very controversial. (The very

With Nouvelle and other precursor movements as a springboard, pioneering chefs such as Ferran

label "Impressionism" was originally meant as an

Adria and Heston Blumenthal began to think in more systematic ways about how to create new

insult.) Similarly, James Joyce and Ernest Hemingway broke all the rules of narrative in their novels,

xvi i i

the Bauhaus school of architecture rejected classi-

MODERNIST CUISINE AT HOME

their food .

experiences for diners. That desire led them to

explore cooking techniques, such as sous vide, and ingredients, such as modern thickening and gelling agents, that in many cases were developed

TEN PRINCIPLES OF

Modernist Cuisine

for either institutional use or mass-produced

these tools let them control food and cooking in

In 1972, the Gault-Millau restaurant guide published "The Ten Commandments of Nouvelle Cuisine" to both champion and explain the new style of cooking. We've come up with a variation on the theme in an attempt to

ways never before possible, the doors were open

explain the Modernist principles we cook by.

foods, not for three-Michelin-star restaurants. These chefs had the vision to realize that because

to exploring a whole new landscape of culinary

surprise and delight. Through Modernism, cuisine became a kind of

Cuisine is a creative art in which the chef and diner are in dialogue. Food is the primary medium for this dialogue, but all sensory aspects oft he dining experience contribute to it.

conversation between the chef and the diner, with food as the medium, and the goal to be thought-

2. Culinary rules, conventions, and traditions must be understood, but they should not be allowed to hinder the development of creative new dishes.

provoking and memorable as well as extraordinarily delicious. Although this foundation has been interpreted and applied in different ways as Modernist cuisine has evolved in recent decades,

3. Creatively breaking culinary rules and traditions is a powerful way to engage diners and make them think about the dining experience. 4. Diners have expectations-some explicit, some implicit- of what sort of

Modernist chefs all share the quality of being

food is possible. Surprising them with food that defies their expectations is another way to engage them intellectually. This includes putting familiar

avant-garde-always at the forefront, pushing the boundaries offood and cooking.

flavors in unfamiliarforms or the converse.

The Modernist influence is now global; it extends far beyond high-end restaurants in big cities. And it seems certain to expand further,

5. In addition to surprise, many other emotions, reactions, feelings, and thoughts can be elicited by cuisine. These include humor, whimsy, satire,

chefs are now entering cooking schools with a

and nostalgia, among others. The repertoire of the Modernist chef isn't just flavor and texture; it is also the range of emotional and intellectual

burning desire to make their own mark by demon-

reactions that food can inspire in the diner.

because this revolution is still in its infancy. Young

strating their inventiveness and expressing their ideas through food. The rapidly falling cost of

6. Creativity, novelty, and invention are intrinsic to the chef's role. When one borrows techniques and ideas or gains inspiration from other chefs

precision cooking equipment and the increasing availability of Modernist ingredients have brought this revolutionary approach to food within reach of home cooks. All that has been missing is a comprehensive guidebook with recipes that span all skill levels; our hope is that Modernist Cuisine

at Home will help to fill that need. In this book, we focus on technologies such as the sous vide water bath, the pressure cooker, and the whipping siphon in our illustration of how home cooking can evolve in a more actively Modernist direction. We chose these technologies because they offer not only new ways to prepare food but also huge benefits in convenience, speed, or reproducibility in cooking. In the spirit of Modernism, we encourage you to use the recipes in this book as a starting point for your own

or other sources, it should be acknowledged. 7.

Science and technology are sources that can be tapped to enable new culinary inventions, but they are a means to an end rather than the final goal.

8. First-rate ingredients are the foundation on which cuisine is built. Expensive ingredients such as caviar or truffles are part of the repertoire but have no greater intrinsic value than other high-quality ingredients. 9. Ingredients originating in food science and technology, such as hydrocolloids, enzymes, and emulsifiers, are powerful tools in helping to produce dishes that would otherwise be impossible. 10. Diners and chefs should be sensitive to the conditions under which food is harvested and grown. Whenever possible, they should support humane methods of slaughter and sustainable harvesting of wild foods such as fish. These points boil down to two key principles: always strive to produce the most delicious, technically exquisite food, and always apply analytical thinking and creativity to constantly advance the face of cuisine.

experiments and creative exploration.

WHAT IS MODERNIST CUISINE

x ix

ABOUT THE RECIPES Unless you own a copy of our earlier book,

but that creativity builds on a solid understand-

Modernist Cuisine, the recipes in this book prob-

ing of how cooking works and a set of new tools

ably look different from those you are used to

and techniques that allow them to cook with

seeing in cookbooks. There is a good reason for

precision and remarkable consistency. With this

that: our recipes reflect the larger Modernist

book and the essential gear and ingredients now

revolution underway in cooking (see page xviii).

widely available, home cooks can achieve equally

The chefs at the forefront of Modernist cooking are some of the most creative cooks in history,

stunning results with confidence. We deliberately selected our recipes to illustrate how Modernist approaches can transform familiar dishes into extraordinary ones. The recipes span a wide

HOW TO Scale a Recipe

range of techniques to give you many examples of Th e rec ipe ma kes four servings, but you're throwing a dinn er party for nine peopl e. You are in lu ck: we've made it easy to sca le th e recipes in this book up to greate r yi elds (or down if you have fewer mouth s to feed). just follow these simpl e ste ps.

how you can apply these methods and ingredients throughout the cooking you do at home. Before you jump in and start cooking from our recipes, we encourage you to read through the

Loo k in the sca ling column of the recipe, and fi nd th e ingredient having a sca ling va lu e of 1 100%. Note the weight given. The 100% ingredient is usually th e one th at has the biggest effect on the yi eld of th e recipe. Example: Th e 100% ingredi ent in the Lobste r Roll recipe shown on th e nex t page is cooked lobster meat (not the live lobsters, beca use lobsters vary in th eir meat co ntent).

chapters in Part One that explain what you need to know about any unfamiliar equipment and ingredients. Notes and introductions that accompany many of the recipes also direct you to helpful discussions elsewhere in the book.

Calculate th e sca ling factor by dividing th e number of servings (or grams) you wa nt to make by th e recip e yield. Example: This recipe yi elds four se rvings. If you are making nine se rvings, th e scaling factor is 9 + 4 ~ 2.25. (You can use the weight of the yield rather than th e servings to calcul ate the scaling factor: if you want to make 1.3 kg of lobster salad from a recipe th at yields 750 g of lobster sa lad as written, th e sca ling factor is 1,300 + 750 ~ 1.73.)

The format of our recipes is designed to be clear and easy to follow while reflecting the Modernist approach of precision in cooking. Read the guide on the next page and the scaling instructions at left so that you understand how each element in a recipe functions.

Ca lculate th e sca led 100% value for the recipe by multiplying th e weight of th e 100% ingredi ent by th e scaling factor from step 2. Example: This four-servin g recipe calls for 500 g/ 1.1 Jb of cooked lobster meat, which is the 100% ingredi ent. To make nine servings, yo u will thus need 500 g x 2.25 ~ 1,125 g (1 .1 kg/ 2.5lb) of cooked lobster meat. Th e sca led 100% valu e for th e recipe is 1,125 g.

Each of the 406 recipes and variations in this book was developed and tested at The Cooking L ab by our team of seven chefs and a separate recipe tester. Although some of the recipes were adapted for home cooks from Modernist Cuisine,

Calculate the scaled weight for every oth er ingredi ent in the recipe by multiplying its sca ling percentage by the scal ed 100% valu e from step 3. You can ignore th e weights and volum es given in the recipe- just use the scaling perce ntages. Example: The sca ling percentage given for live lobsters is 300%. Multipl ying this by th e sca led 100% value from step 3, you find that 300% x 1,125 g ~ 3,375 g (3.4 kg/7.4lb). That's th e weight of live lobsters you need to buy to feed nine peopl e. Si milarly, yo u need 8% x 1,125 g ~ 90 g of di ced Granny Smith apple and 4% x 1,125 g ~ 45 g of vacuuminfused ce lery (which you can make by followin g the recipe on page 131). If no sca ling percentage is given for an ingredi ent, multiply th e volum e or number of pi eces listed by the scaling factor from step 2. Example: Instead of the four buns listed in the recipe, you need 4 x 2.25 ~ 9 buns. The recipe calls for16 strips of tomato leather, so you should make 16 x 2.25 ~ 36 strips.

the great majority of them are brand-new. To get the most out of the recipes, weigh all of your ingredients on a high-quality digital scale (see page 7), use an accurate digital thermometer (see page 8), and invest in a so us vide setup of some kind (see pages 62-64). You can share photos of your results and discuss successes and challenges with our growing community of readers at our website, modernistcuisine.com. The recipes in Modernist Cuisine at Hom e draw inspiration from many of the world's greatest chefs, both living and long past, to whom we are

Because volume measurements given in the recipes ore often rounded to the nearest convenient spoon or cup m easure, you should not multiply or divide volum es when scaling a recipe up or down. Instead, scale the weights as described abo ve, and then weig h th e ingredients.

MODERNIST CUISINE AT HOME

grateful. We hope this book will help you to bring that expertise into your home kitchen.

The yield is the amount of food the recipe makes. With the exception of recipes (such as those in chapter 5 on Basics) that are intended to be used as ingredients in, or accompaniments to, other recipes, recipe yields are given both as a typical number of servings and as the approximate weight of the final dish.

LOBSTER ROLL

TIME ESTIMATE: STORAGE NOTES:

LEVEL OF DIFF ICULTY:

The overall time to make the recipe is given here. When that time includes a substantial amount of unattended preparation or cooking, such as long cooling, marinating, or baking, the unattended time required is listed as well.

roll-unti l you t;I.Ste one made with lobster cooked w ith precision to attain ideal sweetness and tenderness. Butt er infused with lobste r

shells (see page 122) adds extra flavor and color to the toasted bun. INGR EDI ENT LM io1:)5ters

Many of the recipes can be made in advance. The refrigerated and frozen storage times given-supplemented in some recipes by "to make ahead" instructions-offer general guidance. But safe storage times depend on the temperatures inside your refrigerator or freezer. For more details on food safety, see page xxiv.

WE IG HT @

Neutra l ·t~stingoil

VOLUM E

1.5kg/ l.llb21argelobsters

10 g

Green apples ~ nd herbs freshen the lo bste r salad, and in fused cele ry leather add a M odern ist tw ist. Do n't bothe r messing

~ nd tom~ to

with a boutique ho t dog bu n in this New England classic-go wi th the usua l supermarket variety. Fa ncier rolls de tract fro m the lobs ter.

SCA LI NG

"""' 0

10 ml/2 15p

PROCEDU RE

(!) Preheat a water bath to so •c/122 "F, and arrange an ice bath alongside. Kil~ blanch, and dean the lobs ters; see page 284 for instructions.

® ®

Pia« the tai l meatpiecesandhalfoftheoi l in a zip-top bag. Place the

® ~;;~a~"~~: ::;re;~ ;:~~~~= ;:~~f~~~~l5~na~~c!:~~~:~-top

bag.

@ Cook the tall meat sousvide to a core temperature o f 49 "C/ 120 "f, about 15 minutes, and then plunge the bag in ice water. ® lncreasethewaterbathtemperatureto55 "C/ ll l "F.Cookthedaw and knuckle meat sous vide to a core temperature of 54 •c/129 "f, about 15 minutes, and then plunge the bag in ice water. ® Cutall ofthelobstermeatintochunksno largerthan I cm /~ in. Cool<ed lo bster meat. from above Mayonnaise

-~ roe

@ ~:~ynJi~=thapple, Chives, thin lysliced Tarragon, minced

,.,,

Black pepper, ground

500g/ l.llb

! ~cups

100"

200g

I cup

""'

..••

40g

Hotdog buns {store-bought)

~cup

2Tbsp JTbsp

4buns

Pressure-Cooked Crustacean8utteror darified, unsa lted buner oee...,..J22od t9

JOg

2Tbsp

Vacuum- Infused Celery

20g

2~Tbsp

Tomato leather, strips (optiona.l)

(!) Combine, and mix thoroughly.

0.8" 0 .8"

® ®

Seasonthedressedlobstermeat.

Divide the dren ed lobster meat evenly among the toa5ted buns. Gam ish with celery and tomato leather, and serve immediately.

>ft p>I"'IJI

Ingredient weights are given in grams only, except for meats and seafood, for which weights are also given in pounds because that is how these products are typically sold in U.S. supermarkets. All recipes in this book were developed and tested by weight. not by volume. To get the same results that we did in our test kitchens, every ingredient should be weighed wherever a weight is given.

® 0

Jou r servings (750 g/ 3 cups of lobster salad) 2 hours overall, including I* hours of preparation a11d 30 minutes u11attmded cooktd lobstu and dressed lobster salad keep for up to 1 day when refrigerated moderate sous vide setup, Vacuum- Infused Celery (su page 131), Tomato Leather (op tio r~ al,see page 129)

You might think it's hard to improve on an old-fashioned lobster

Unusual equipment or ingredients used in the recipe (even if they are optional) are noted here. We don't list ingredients usually found in city supermarkets. We also don't list equipment. such as a fine sieve, an accurate digital thermometer, a precise scale, an immersion blender, and a silicone baking mat. that we expect most readers already own. For more on equipment. see chapter 1.

SPECIAL REQUIREMENTS:

We rate recipes as easy, moderate, or advanced in difficulty for an experienced amateur cook. Advanced recipes also indicate which aspect of the recipe may be particularly challenging.

YI ELD:

Warm the crustacean butter to room temperat ure, and spread it generously on the inside of the buns. Place the buns facedown in a dry frying pan, and toast them over medium hea t until golden brown, abo!Jt2minutes.

16strips

......... 129

r:;-;-. You can substitute cooked shrimp or store~ bought cooked crab for the lobster.

@ ~:!:~::~a~n ;o~s~i=~!:s~::.e;r!~~at a water bath to 55 "C/ 13J "f. 5eal the shelled lobster tail meat with 20 g of butter in a zip· top bag. re move the lllir, and seal. Cook sous vide to a core temperature of 54 "C/ 129 "f, about 12 minutes. Serve with melted butter and fresh herbs, or with Caramelized Carrot Puree (see page 178)i1 nd a dusting ofChailt Mua.la (see page \36).

Scaling percentages make it easy to make more or less of a recipe: see How to Scale a Recipe on the previous page.

Approximate volume equivalents are listed for convenience only. We give common spoon and cup measures (or unit measures) for all ingredients except those, such as thickeners and emulsifiers, that must be weighed for the recipe to work. We also give volumes in milliters (ml) for thin liquids. We used both the reference table on page XVI and also measurements in our research kitchen to convert ingredient weights to volumes, which we then rounded to the nearest convenient division (see page XVI for details). Volume measurements are difficult to make accurately, and they vary greatly depending on how an ingredient is prepared and how tightly it is packed. We strongly urge you to weigh ingredients instead.

Many recipes involve sealing food and cooking it sous vide in a water bath, either for a specified time at a given temperature or to agiven core food temperature. For instructions on equipment and techniques for cooking sous vide, see chapter 3 on page 48.

Recipe tables are divided by colored lines that group ingredients into blocks. Procedure steps apply only to ingredients that are in the same block as the step. In step 7, for example, "combine, and mix thoroughly" means to combine and mix the cooked lobster meat. mayonnaise, apple, chives, tarragon, and pepper-not to combine all the ingredients in the recipe.

Some ingredients (four of those in this recipe) may be made by using other recipes in this book. In such cases, we give a page reference below the ingredient or recipe name. To save time, you can substitute store-bought ingredients, as we indicate by putting the ingredient name in lowercase.

Initial ingredient preparation steps, such as cutting and grinding, are indicated following the ingredient name and should be performed before you begin cooking. In some recipes, the mise en place is pictured.

@ ]

--..--

-·--••~w,_

.........

Safety tips that are relevant for the recipe are referenced here; read the tips before making the dish.

Notes provide additional information on simple substitutions, history, or related topics.

Variation recipes change some of the steps or ingredients in the main recipe to make a different dish. Follow all of the steps in the main recipe except as directed in the variation instructions.

In most recipes, the steps are given in concise form in the recipe table, and then in more descriptive form with selected photographs. Usually the picture appears above the step that describes it; when a number appears in the picture, it indicates the corresponding step in the recipe.

ABOUT T HE RECIPES

=---..-.-

9 ~~~-:..::::

...

10 :::..~:--=.:::=.:::'""~..-

...-

X X j

Refined and Unrefined Oils Fundamentally, all oils are composed of various

NEUTRAL OILS

kinds of fats . The flavor of an oil comes from small

In this book, we typically refer to refined oils as

amounts of other compounds that are suspended

"neutral oils" because they can be used for their

in the fats. These additional compounds affect

properties as oils without adding flavor. The

both the smoke point of the oil and how it reacts

neutral oils listed in the table below have varied

to oxidation.

characteristics, but several may be suitable for a particular application. Use what you have on hand.

Some oils are flavorful and have a creamy

When deep-frying or sauteing over high heat,

mouthfeel because they are only filtered, not refined. These oils are useful in making emul-

choose an oil that has a high smoke point. Con-

sions and doughs, as well as to flavor foods.

versely, when making pastry dough, you'll get

But unrefined oils should never be used at high

the best results from oils that are solid near room

heat because they quickly break down, begin

temperature.

to smoke, and start to taste bad. Refined oils have had the majority of their

FlAVORFUl OILS

The flavorful oils listed in the table on the next

"impurities" removed, including nearly all of the compounds that impart aroma and flavor.

page are best used either for cooking at low tem-

As a result, refined oils are much more stable

peratures or for finishing a dish. Flavorful oils that

for storage and high-temperature cooking.

are pressed from nuts or seeds are usually available in both virgin and roasted forms; roasting adds

Animal fats and clarified butter share many of the properties of refined oils. These fats tend

depth to the flavor. You can also add flavor to oils

to solidify at room temperature, a characteristic

by infusing them with herbs, citrus peels, spices, chili peppers, or garlic. Never cook with infused

particularly valuable for making pastry dough.

oils, however: as soon as they are heated, they lose their aroma and begin to develop off-flavors.

Neutral Oils Oils are products of nature and are pressed and refined by using a wide range of techniques. As a result, the temperature at which an oil starts to smoke {the smoke point) or catches fire {the flash point) can vary considerably for a particular oil from one supplier {or even one bottle) to another. The temperatures given in this table and the one on the next page provide a general guide, but your oils may perform differently. Smoke point

Flash point Notes

Fat

XXi i

265

510

distinct aroma; melting point: 54 °C/ 129 °F

205

400

canola {rapeseed) oil

225

435

275

525

prone to off-flavors; readily absorbed by food

chicken fat

190

375

255

490

melting point: 54 oc / 129 °F

clarified butter

252

485

coconut oil, refined

195

385

290

beeftallow

also called "ghee"; flavor depends on production

555

melting point: 25 oc / 77 °F

corn oil

230

445

335

635

drains well

duck fat

190

375

255

490

melting point: 54 oc / 129 °F

grapeseed oi I

200

390

250

480

rich in fatty acids; oxidizes easily

peanut oil, refined

230

445

330

625

good for deep-frying; may be allergenic

pork lard

200

390

240

465

melting point: 33 oc / 91 °F

safflower oil

240

465

260

500

soybean oil

235

455

330

625

prone to off-flavors from oxidation and heating

sunflower oil

235

455

275

525

poor-quality oil; tends to foam

MODERNIST CUISINE AT HOME

Flavorful Oils Smoke point Fat

(â&#x20AC;˘C)

Notes

almond oil

216

420

very mild, light, and slightly sweet

avocado oil, unrefined

271

520

the only oil here that should be used for sauteing above low heat

butter, whole

135

275

sweet and creamy

coconut oil, virgin

177

350

hazelnut oil

221

430

toasted variety especially remini sce nt of hazelnuts

macadamia nut oil

210

410

very light flavor

olive oil, extra-virgin

210

410

flavors vary widely with olive variety, provenance, and processing

peanut oil, unrefined

160

320

dense and heavy, with distinct flavor

pistachio oil

177

350

bright green, with grassy notes

pumpkin seed oil

105

220

very low smoke point; do not heat

toasted-sesame oil

210

410

high-q uality oil; ava ilabl e toasted and untoasted; high in antioxidants

walnut oil

160

320

slightly tart and grassy

Sources: j ournal ofAmerican Oil Chemists' Society, vol. 19, no. 11, 193-198; Vegetable Oils in Food Technology, Blackwe ll, 2002; Ullmann's Encyclop edia ofindustrial Chemistry, Wiley, 2000; Modernist Cuisine: The Art and Science ofCooking, The Cooking

Argan oil is popular among chefs and foodies because of its uniqu e provenance and its occas ionall y intense fera l fl avor. Traditionally, the Berbers in Morocco harvested the fruits of the Argan tree by feeding them to herds of goats. After passing through the goats' digestive systems, the seeds were co ll ected, cleaned, a nd pressed. (Less interesting methods of producing this rare o il are now more commo n.)

Lab, 201 1

ABOUT THE RECIPE S

X X

j ji

Food Safety Correctly following the steps of a recipe is only

kitchen tools, containers, utensils, dishes, and

part of the cooking process; you also need to keep

pans in a hot, sanitizing dishwasher. Or you can

food safety in mind so that the people you feed

mix 1 Tbsp of Clorox bleach per gallon of water

don't become ill. Few cookbooks tackle this sub-

(about 4 mL of bleach per liter of water) in a

ject. First, it can be quite complicated; Modernist

bucket, and submerge your tools in it for at least

Cuisine has two lengthy chapters devoted to

two minutes. After you drain the bleach solution,

this topic, and that's only a beginning. Second,

do not rinse or wipe dry the implements or the

people tend to get squeamish when you talk about

container; doing so might recontaminate them.

pathogens, sickness, and fecal contamination.

Let everything drip-dry. Any residue of bleach

We believe it is important for every cook (whether

that remains will be so faint that it will not affect

at home or in a restaurant) to understand the

the taste or the safety of the food.

basics of food safety. Following a few simple rules makes cooking at home a lot safer. The first thing to understand about food Cutting boards pose a big risk of crosscontamination among different foods if they aren't properly sanitized between uses. Food on the cutting board can contaminate whatever food next comes in contact with the board's surface or the cutting knife. To prevent this, wash cutting boards and other tools between every use.

Once a week, heat your sponge in the microwave on high for 1 minute, or toss it in the dishwasher with the drying cycle turned on. You

safety is that the overwhelming majority of

should also stop using your dish towel to wipe

food poisoning cases occur because the food is

down counters, hands, and equipment; it soon

contaminated-and at least 80% of the time, the

accumulates food, bacteria, and yes, feces . Dish

contaminant is fecal matter (either animal or

towels should be used as nothing more than

human). As you might imagine, eating feces is

potholders. For wiping hands and other surfaces,

a bad idea for lots of reasons, but for food safety

switch to disposable paper towels.

the point is that gastrointestinal illnesses are transmitted by germs (pathogens) in the feces. Nobody wants to eat feces; it happens acciden-

INGREDIENTS

You should always start with high-quality ingre-

tally through lapses in hygiene. The single most

dients, and then handle them properly. Many

important thing you can do to eliminate food-

people have a vague idea that meat and seafood

borne illness is to practice better hygiene.

are inherently more likely to be contaminated

HYGIENE

is just as likely to carry fecal contaminants as

than plant foods are, but this is a myth. Produce Good hygiene is critical wherever food is prepared

meat and seafood are. Berries, green vegetables,

or eaten, and the most important thing you need

and nuts actually carry an additional risk because

to keep clean is your hands. Proper hand washing

they are much more frequently consumed raw

is not just passing your hands quickly under a

than are meat and seafood.

faucet-it means carefully scrubbing your hands with soap and water for a full30 seconds and Properly organized freezers make it easier to manage frozen food and to identify and remove packages that have been in the freezer for too long.

using a nailbrush to clean under your nails. That's

of water with 10% cider vinegar (100 g of vinegar

what surgeons do before an operation, and it is

for every one liter of water) to reduce surface

what a cook should do before cooking.

pathogens. Some stores sell an organic solution

Nearly everything in a kitchen is covered in bacteria, even if it looks clean. Even food that

Vegetab les ge nerally keep best at 3-4 oc / 37-39 째F, whereas fish and meats do best at 0-1 oc / 32-34 째F. If yo u can cons istently keep your refrigerator at l oc / 34 째For lowe r, you can store most food cooked so us vide for 30 days, accord ing to FDA standards. At a refrigerator temperature of3 째C/ 37 oF, however, the recommended length of storage drops to three days.

X X jV

Wash produce thoroughly, especially if you plan to serve it raw. We rinse our produce in a solution

made for that purpose. When handling meat, use a separate cutting

arrives to the kitchen clean can become contami-

board from the one you use for produc-e. Keep in

nated by pathogens that have been carried into

mind that whole muscles generally are sterile on

the kitchen on other food, the bottom of a shoe, or

the inside (thanks to the immune system of the

other sources. According to New York University

animal); any contamination is much more likely

microbiologist and immunologist Philip Tierno,

to be on the surface of the meat.

the two dirtiest items in a typical house are both found in the kitchen: the sink and the sponge. To keep things as clean as possible and reduce the risk of cross-contamination, wash small

MOD ERNIS T CU ISINE AT HOME

For that reason, puncturing meat-whether with a Jaccard tenderizer, a thermometer, or even a fork-can push germs into the meat from the exterior. You can greatly reduce the risk by

adhering to safe cooking times and temperatures.

is a few degrees colder than that. The best way to

If you are really concerned, dip the meat into

check this is to put a glass of water in the refriger-

hot water to blanch it before you puncture it.

ator, let it sit for two hours, and then stick ather-

Water at 76 •c I 170 •p pasteurizes the surface

mometer in it. If the only way to get your top-shelf

in one second. A quick sear of the surface with a

temperature down to 3 ·c I 37 •p is to have the

blowtorch sanitizes it even more thoroughly (see

bottom shelf at a freezing temperature, so be it.

page 15). It's also a good idea to puncture meat as

Minimize the number of times you open the door,

little as is necessary. Wait to check the tempera-

and close it again as quickly as possible.

ture, for example, until the cooking is nearly done. Because fish is cooked optimally at very low

Never put hot food in a refrigerator because it will warm everything else inside: a hot casserole

temperatures (at least in our opinion), you can't

can warm the interior by as much as 15 ·c I 60 •p,

pasteurize fish without overcooking it. So when

Counterintuitive though it may seem, it's gener-

you eat fish that is properly cooked to the temper-

ally safest overall to cool hot food outside of your

atures we call for in our recipes, you must accept

refrigerator. Just cover the food to avoid con-

that it isn't pasteurized. This is a small risk that

tamination, and don't leave it out for more than

most people consider acceptable. ·

four hours. Even better, cool foods quickly in

To store food safely, make sure that no part of your refrigerator is above 5 •c I 40 •p; the optimum

their covered containers using an ice bath or, in a pinch, cold tap water.

just as using a sharp knife requi res careful handling, so does other eq uipment in this book. See our safety guidelines for working with blowtorches (page 15), hot oil for deep-frying (page 26), an d pressure cookers (page 33).

THE SCIENCE OF

"Lightly Cooked " Food In a handful of our recipes, the cooking

regulators, but they most likely thought

temperatures we recommend fall below

that providing both temperatures and times

those listed in guide lines published by the

would be too comp licated. If you don't

U.S. Food and Drug Administration or the

understand the meaning of time, however,

U.S. Department of Agriculture (USDA).

you've got bigger problems in the kitchen

We've marked these recipes "lightly cooked."

than food safety.

You should not serve these foods (or raw foods) to immune-compromised people.

Once you eliminate time from the standards, the strong tendency is to choose

Why don't we always fo llow govern-

a temperature so hot that it can produce

ment guidelines? Once upon a time, some

the required level of pathogen reduction

well-meaning officials decided that food

nearly instantaneously. This impractically

safety recommendations should include

high temperature invariably leads to over-

only temperatures rather than time-and-

cooked meat, seafood, and vegetables.

temperature combinations. This decision,

As we did extensive research for Modernist Cuisine (where we cover this topic in greater detail), we found numerous puzzles, inconsistencies, and mistakes in food safety regulations. Some have since been corrected; for example, the USDA's recommended cooking temperature for pork is now 63 •c / 145 •Finstead of 71 •c ; 160 · F. But most have not.

perhaps the worst oversimplification in all of food safety, has led to years of confusion and mountains of ruined food . Scientifically speaking, you need the right combination of both time and temperature to kill pathogens. Why give temperatureonly ru les when the science says otherwise? One can only guess at the reasoning of

Ground beef. in which interior and exterior parts are thoroughly mixed, is particularly susceptible to contamination. During grinding, pathogens on the food surface can end up in the food interior, which doesn't get as hot as the surface does during cooking.

ABOUT THE RECIPES

SAFETY TIPS FOR LIGHTLY COOKED FOOD Lightly cooked food should be prepared in much the same way that we recommend preparing all food. Seek out the best ingredients, handle and prepare them hygienically, and cook them precisely. Th e one major difference is that lightly cooked food shou ld be served imm ediately; leftovers shou ld be discarded. The reaso n is that pathogens much more quickly co lonize and propagate in foods below 50 •c / 120 •F. So if you eat lightly cooked food immediately, you're fin e, but if you first let it sit around for a bit, you're taking an unnecessary risk. Raw and lightly cooked food shou ld not be served to anyone who has a comprom ised immune system.

XXV

COUNTERTOP TOOLS Blowtorches, whipping siphons, and syringes? They're not the first things you' d think of to

Next to high-quality scales and thermometers, our favorite tools are the Microplane-Max

stock your home kitchen. But the tools that we've

travels with one in his suitcase-and the whipping

selected for this chapter we use every day because

siphon, both of which are just fun to use. When-

they are so versatile and produce such creative and

ever you feel inventive, these are terrific tools to

delicious results. A whipping siphon, for example,

experiment with.

is good for far more than whipped cream: we use it to carbonate soda, to add fizz or infused flavors to fruit, and to marinate meat in a fraction of the with a good blender or juicer and a fine

make a deliJust a power-

And they aren't hard to find. Not so long ago, buying a whipping siphon meant opening an account at a restaurant-supply store. Blowtorches were sold only by machine shops and hardware stores. Hypodermic syringes had to be ordered from medical supply houses. But now these

ful blender and a fine sieve are sufficient to create

gadgets, and all of the other countertop tools

almost any puree imaginable.

we suggest in this chapter, are readily available

Two inexpensive pieces of equipment are absolutely essential to all Modernist cooking techniques: a reliable digital scale and an accurate

in most kitchen-supply stores or home improvement centers. Their cost has come down as well, further low-

digital probe thermometer. People tend to screw

ering the barrier to home use. Although a profes-

up their recipes or get frustratingly inconsistent

sional chef may use a $400 digital scale, a $25

results because the ingredient proportions or

model will work just fine for most purposes. You

the temperatures are vague or mysterious. Mod-

don't need a $2,000 setup to experience the amaz-

ernist cooking uses precision instruments and

ing results of cooking sous vide; you can achieve

techniques to remove the mystery-and greatly

similar results with a $10 digital thermometer, a zip-top bag, and some vigilance. So we encourage you to pick up some of the

amount of each ingredient, cook the food to a

tools shown here. They will pay for themselves

precise temperature, and then be able to replicate

many times over in the form of greater control,

the results of that exact combination every single

confidence, and creativity-and thus higher-

time. With those basics handled, you can devote

quality cooking.

more thought and energy to the creative aspects of cooking.

Invaluable Modernist Tools Gadgets? Not exactl y. Th ese are ite ms that we have come to re ly o n for effi cie ncy a nd co nsiste nt results. Sca les, digital th e rmomete rs, whipping siphons, blowto rches, and imm e rsio n ble nd e rs: we ca n't imagin e coo kin g Rank

without the m. Not all brands are listed in th e tabl e be low; th ose give n are the ones we ha ppe n to use in o ur resea rch kitche n, bu t oth ers may be just as good.

Tool

Kind

Brand

2012 Pri ce

Note

digital scale

5 kg max imum, 1 g in cre me nts

Escali, My We igh, Sa lte r

$25-$50

both kinds are must-haves for accurate weighing

200 g maximum, 0 .01 g incre ments

AWS, Po ld er

$15-$50

instant-read digital pro be, ove n-safe digital probe with wire lead

Th e rmoWo rks

$10-$100

infra red

Fluke

$75-$200

Kuhn Rikon, Fago r

$75-$2 00

the rmom ete r

pressure cooke r

wate r bath

heated water bath

So usVid e Supre me, $250 -$8 00 Po lyScience

slow coo ke r with PID co ntro ll er

So usVid eMagic

$120-$18 0

must- haves; precise te mpe rature co ntro l is crucial in Mode rnist cooki ng

esse ntia l fo r making stocks and qui ckly coo king gra ins, seeds, and to ugh meats esse ntia l fo r precise cook ing

improvised setup

any

$20 -$5 0

vacuum sea le r

e dge sea le r

Food Saver, So usVide Supre me

$5 0-$140

blowtorch

MAPP o r pro pyle ne fu e l

Turbo Torch

$65

whipping siphons

500 ml or 1l size

iSi, SFG

$30 -$130

bl end e r

profess io nal

Vita mi x

$400

fo r making insta nt foams, and in fusing o r ca rbo nating so lid and liq ui d foo ds less expensive mode ls wo rk in most cases

immersion

sti ck type

Cui sinart, Bami x, Kitche nAid

$30 -$100

whisk attachm e nts a re handy for ma kin g qui ck foa ms

Silpat, Wilto n

$10-$25

useful fo r baking, spreading, or de hydrating fo od that te nds to stick exce ll e nt fo r casting ge ls and settin g shapes

8 9

bl e nd e r

sili con e mats

half-s heet and full -s heet sizes

sil icon e mo lds

assorte d sizes

a ny

$20

meat te nd e rizer

15-45 bl ades, mi croblades

jacca rd

$25- $40

de hydrato r

with Pa ra- Fi exx sheets

Exca libur

$200

long tweezers

any

$5-$20

pa intbrush

any

$2-$10

coffee co ld -brewing kit

Toddy

$40

conve ni e nt-a nd so metim es esse ntial- fo r coo king so us vid e and freeze r storage pro pyle ne-based fu e ls burn cl ea nly and avoid ta intin g food with co mbustio n produ cts

useful fo r te nd e rizing to ugh meat as we ll as for qui ckly pe rfo ratin g pastry or skin fo r p rese rving seasonal fruits a nd salted meats, making fru it a nd vegetabl e leath e rs a nd chips, d ehydrating po rk skin fo r fry ing useful fo r creative pl ating and ha nd ling deli cate ingre di e nts useful fo r applying eve n laye rs of oil for ba king, sa uces for glazi ng, and fo r creative platin g

Chefs are not limited to equipment made solely for culinary purposes. Plenty of tools can be adapted for use in the kitchen. For example, long tweezers make handling food less cumbersome, and a paintbrush is useful for applying even layers of sauce or oil.

MODERNIST CUISINE AT HO M E

1 DIGITAL SCALES If you have been measuring ingredients only by the cup and teaspoon, now is a great time to buy a good sca le and to begin applying more precision to your recipe measurements. Digita l gram scales are easy to find at cooking stores, and basic models are not expensive. There's just no excuse not to own one-and you really shou ld have two: a general-purpose scale that accurately measures weights from one gram or less a ll the way to 1,000 grams or more, and an even more precise scale that is accurate to a tenth or hundredth of a gram. Some higher-capacity scales now display bakers' percentages as we ll as grams. That is especially useful for our recipes because we list scaling percentages for most of them. So you could place

-=~ ::

I i

one ingredient on the scale, set it to 100%, a nd then weigh the remaining ingredients according to the percentages-no math required (see page xx for an example). A fine-weights sca le is a crucial tool when measuring hydrocolloid thickening and ge lling agents. These compounds are so powerful that a fraction of a gram can mean the difference between a sauce t hat is ve lvety and o ne that is gummy or slimy. A quality digital pocket scale does the job well and at a fraction of the price of a lab scale. Be su re to keep your scales clean, calibrate t hem regularly (check the manufacturer's instructions), take care not to drop or jolt them, and a lways use them on a level surface.

Pocket sca le

Standard kitchen sca le

Accurate to: 0.01-0.1 g / 0.0004-0.004 oz

Accurate to: 1 g / 0 .04 oz Typical max. capacity: 2-5 kg Pro s: good for a wide range of

Typical max. capacity: 100-200 g Pros: ultra precise for delicate, fussy in gred ients; very portable Cons: sufficient on ly for hydro-

co mmon ingredients Cons: not ideal for hyd roco lloids Where to buy: kitchen-supply sto res Cost: $25-$40

co lloids and spices Where to buy: online Cost: $15-$40

HOW TO Tare a Digital Scale - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

Place a piece of parchment or waxed paper on the scale to ensure that you don't leave traces of the ingredient on the weighing platform. You ca n use a bowl on larger sca les.

Tare (zero) the sca le by pressing the tare button to reset the scale to zero. ow the scale w ill weigh only the ingredi ent, not

Add the appro priate measure of the ingredient. If add ing a second ingredient, repeat step 2 to reset the scale to zero.

the container.

When w riting yo ur own recipes, you can use the ta re button in two handy ways to record the we ights of the ingredients you use. If yo u can co mbine the ingredients in a bowl o n the sca le, tare before yo u add each ingredient to taste. Write down the amount added before you ta re aga in .

If yo u are instead combining ingredients in another co ntainer (such as in a pot o r b lender), place more of the ingredient than yo u wi ll need on the sca le, tare it, and then add to taste from the sca le. The amount that you removed from the sca le w ill show up o n the disp lay as a negative we ight.

COUNTERTOP TOOLS

DIGITAL THERMOMETERS Small changes in temperature can ma ke all the differe nce in cooki ng, so thermometers are a must. Unfortunate ly, they are not as accurate as yo u might think. First, get rid of yo ur old ana log thermometer; it can not be trusted . Analog thermometers are a ll but useless at low temperatures, like those used w he n cooking so us vide. (Sugar thermometers perform fine at high te mpe ratures, but de licate glass is a disaste r if it breaks.) Equally worthless are the classic metal spike-and-dial meat thermometers. Th ei r acc uracy is rarely

better than ±2.5 °( / ±4.5 °F, a nd they take too long to display the temperature. A digital thermometer is the best cho ice. If need be, a good thermometer can serve in place of a fancy so us vide cooker (see page 63). Our a ll-around favorite is the thermoco uple thermomete r, but a $10 instant-read thermom eter is also fast, accurate, and easy to place just where you wa nt it. That's important becaus e the accuracy of th e thermometer depends in part on how skillfull y yo u use it (see page 66).

Instant-read

Oven probe

Infrared

Thermocouple

Accuracy: ±2.0 ' C/ ±3.6 ' F Pros: exce ll e nt range a nd speed, with nee dl e-thin tip; useful for a lm ost a ny app li catio n Cons: ca n't remain in oven dur in g cook ing; cheaper mod e ls not ap propri ate for deep-frying tempe rat ures Where to buy: kitchen-supply stores, upsca le superma rkets Cost: $10-$20

Accuracy: ±1.5 ' C/ ±2.7 ' F Pros: id ea l for cook ing so us vid e a nd for low-te mp e rature ba kin g; heat- resista nt wire allows probe to be p laced in a n ove n or water bat h Cons: probe is bu lky, leav in g a vis ible indentation in the food; somet im es too heavy to stay in place Where to buy: kitchen-supply sto res Cost: $20-$50

Accuracy: ±2.0 ' C/±3.6 ' F Pros: useful for measuring te mperatures of cooki ng surfaces (grill s, griddl es, pans, pizza stones), oven interiors, a nd sauces Cons: won't read the interior temperature of food Where to buy: on lin e, e lectron ics stores Cost: $30-$75

Accuracy: ±0 .5 ' C/± 0.9 ' F Pros: ext reme ly accurate; exte ndabl e wire a ll ows probe to be pl aced in th e food during cooki ng in a water bath or oven Cons: more expe nsive Where to buy: o nlin e, professional culin ary sto res Cost: $60-$150

If you plan to deep-fry, you wi ll need a high-temperature thermometera ny of the fo ur we list here, with the exce ption of cheaper instant-read thermometers (w hich we do not recommend), is up to the task.

HOW TO Test the Accuracy of a Thermometer - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

Test the range a nd accuracy of your thermometer as soon as you buy it by using a pot of bo il ing water or a glass of crushed ice an d wate r. Stir the crushed ice with the water for1 minu te to make sure the temperature is evenly distributed.

Insert the probe into the water. Take care to kee p th e probe from touching the container.

The display shou ld read 0 ' C/ 32 ' Fin ice water at any e levatio n or abo ut100 ' C/ 212 ' Fin boiling water at sea leve l. (You can eas ily look up the variatio n of boiling point by e levatio n or air pressure at webs ites such as www.csgnetwork.co m/ h2oboilcalc. html.}

Digital thermometers that are off by more than 2 ' C/ 4 ' Fshould be adjusted by a professional.

MODERNIST CUISINE AT HOME

Pot of boiling water

1 SILICONE MATS AND MOLDS We love silicone mats: baking sheet liners that are flexible, durable, heatproof, and nonstick. They come in three varieties: Silpat-style mats made of heavy-weave fiberglass mesh coated with food-grade silicone, silicone-coated parchment paper, and pure silicone mats. All three are useful for lining oven trays, setting into pans on the stove, and making thin sheets of food, such as crackers, crisps, and fruit leather. We often cut pure silicone sheets such as Wilton mats, into custom shapes and sizes, as for our Striped Mushroom Omelet recipe on page 148. (Don't cut Silpats, or you will expose the fiberglass core.) Silicone mats replace waxed paper, aluminum, and parchment paper with one reusable item. And, unlike nonstick coatings, the silicone can't be scratched off. Soft, wobbly pure silicone molds are best for setting and easily turning out shapes, especially those made of semisoft gels. We don't recommend using them for baking when you want to create a golden crust; otherwise, they are fine. We use silicone molds for custards, panna cotta, chocolates and other delicate foods . You don't have to heat or scrape at the food to get it out-you just push .

MICRO PLANES Ask chefs how they feel about their Microplanes, and they'll likely say they can't live without them. We find that Microplanes are more versatile than zesters and much sharper than box graters. You can shave hard cheeses and chocolates into fluffy, snow-like mounds, or make a fine citrus zest. Finely

grate frozen meat for a delicate carbonara or potatoes for a crispy, deep-fried garnish. Turn ginger, onions, and garlic into pastes without mincing. Microplane and other brands have created graters in a range of coarseness to suit every application.

COUNTERTOP TOOLS

BLENDERS AND FOOD PROCESSOR S Blenders and food processors cut, chop, and pulverize food from rough cubes of about an inch or two into smaller bits, or even fine purees. The smallest particle size a blender can achieve depends on the speed of its motor and how long you process the food. Particles smaller than about 10 microns / 0.0004 in are individually imperceptible to your tongue, so the food feels completely smooth and silky.

Blenders work well on fluid mixtures, but not on large chunks of food or very thick purees. The wide blade of a food processor is a better match for thick, chunky foods, and attachments can allow this tool to slice and dice dry ingredients. Coffee grinders are ideal tools for releasing the flavor and aroma from seeds and other hard spices. We keep one of each of these tools on hand in our kitchens.

Countertop blender

Coffee grinder

Food processor

Pros: good for grinding soft foods, pureeing, and mak ing emulsions suc h as mayonnaise

Pros : makes quick work of sp ices compared

Pros : the most versatile of grind ing tools; handles dry, soft food better than a blender

and vinaigrettes Cons: narrow blade area ca n't produce the finest purees; soups are noticeably gritty if

w ith a mortar and pestle Cons: difficult to cl ean (grind ing a bit of rice and wiping it out with a paper towel is the best you can do)

does. Food has nowh ere to hid e from the wide blad e swee ping close to the broad, flat bottom . Cons: blades spin at lower speeds than those in a blender, so purees aren 't as smoot h; best

you don't sieve them after blending. Very thick liquid s may not receive adequate turnover.

Features to look for: power, design that all ows the grinding bowl to be removed for cleaning

Large chunks of food can get stuck or wedge

Where to buy: kitchen-supply stores

su ited for chunky sauces, doughs, and pastes Features to look for: a bevy of attac hm ents can

themselves out of reach of the blade Features to look for: power (we prefer Vitamix

Cost: $20-$50

save time on food preparation such as shredding, chopping, and grinding Where to buy: kitchen-supply stores

models that can transform chunky food into si lk in minutes), a w id er bottom for better circula-

Cost: $125 - $500

tion offood around the blade Where to buy: kitchen-supply stores Cost: $50-$400

MODERNIST CUISIN E AT HOME

1 MIXERS AND FROTHERS Th e w hisk was probab ly a mind-blowing invention w hen it first beca me ava ilable to ho usehold ki tchens. Imagine w hat

stand mi xers revolutionized coo king again. Interestin gly, none

an improve ment it offered over woo den paddles and spoons.

of t hese tools co mpl etely replaced its predecessors. Th ey can all mix, froth, and emulsify. But th ey aren't equally effi cient;

Th e eggbeater was anoth er techno logica l ste p up, and th en

each excels at diffe rent t as ks.

Milk frother Pros: good for dispe rsing a hydrocolloid or oth e r po wd e r; froths mi lk for coffee, a crea my soup, or a sha ke (see page 213) Co ns: work s o nly in thin liqu ids; too li tt le powe r to b le nd ingredie nts fu ll y Whe re to bu y: kitche n-sup ply sto res Cost : $5-$20

Stand mixer Pros: mu ch fas te r than a whisk or spo o n; attac hm e nts and spee d control make it ve rsatil e e nough to whip egg whites, knead bre ad dou g h, g rind meat, and ex trud e pas ta Co ns: food pro cessors ofte n now includ e a dou g h ho ok, g rind ing p late, a nd wh ippin g attac hme nt, ma king th e m mo re ve rsatil e th a n sta nd mixe rs Wh e re to buy: kitche n-supp ly stores Cost: $2 00

Immersion or handheld blender Pros : in ex pe ns ive (midra nge mod e ls work just as we ll as the ex pe nsive profess io nal ve rsions); usefu l for ma ny sma ll bl e nd ing tasks; ca n bl e nd direc tly into a bowl o r a pot whil e it is heati ng; ve ry good for fo a ming fatty or sta rchy liqu ids a nd for ma kin g basic e mul sions such as mayonna ise and vin a igre tte (see pages 10 8 and 11 7) Co ns: li mited moto r powe r a nd small blades ma ke them infe rior to upright bl e nd e rs for heavy-duty cho pp ing or puree in g W he re to bu y: kitche n-supp ly sto res Cost: $20 -$5 0

Handheld whisk Pros: in ex pe nsive and readi ly ava ila b le; ma kes th e la rge, un eve n bubbl es character isti c of sa bayo n; go od for qui ckly mi xing li qu id ing redi e nts be fore coo king and for mixing a batter with o ut ove rwo rking th e glute n and sta rch Co ns: produ ces la rge dropl ets, so e mul sio ns a re not ve ry sta bl e Wh e re to bu y: ki tche n-suppl y sto res Cost: $5-$10

COUNTERTOP TOOLS

ICE-CREAM MAKERS Making quality ice cream, gelato, granitas, and other frozen desserts at home is challenging, but modern appliances make it much more feasible than the old-fashioned approach of hand-stirring the ingredients in a vessel immersed in salty ice brine. The fanciest new ice-cream makers do the churning for you and self-regulate the temperature oftheir freezing chambers. In between are semiautomatic methods such as paddles and vessels for stand mixers that can be prechil\ed enough to produce small quantities of frozen treats. No matter how you make ice cream, the finer the crystals

in it, the silkier the ice cream feels on your tongue. If you freeze the mixture too slowly or with too little churning, the crystals will grow. You can use this to good effect when making snow cones or granitas, but for ice cream, smoother is always better. Churning thus performs two crucial functions. First, it blends the fat, sugar, and other solids evenly with the water into an emulsion that freezes at a colder temperature than pure water does. Second, it disrupts crystal formation soon after it starts, so the ice particles remain microscopic in size.

Commercial-style ice-cream makers (top left. above) like those made by Gaggia Gelatiera. Cuisinart. Delonghi. and Lello are now available for the home. albeit at relatively high prices, ranging from $200 to $700. They can make gelato (above. see recipe on page 370) that rivals what you'll get at a gelateria. Semiautomatic appliances (bottom right) from Cuisinart. Hamilton Beach. and others, as well as ice-cream attachments for stand mixers. (bottom left) are less expensive ($30-$70) but require several hours to prefreeze a vessel. They also generally produce ice cream having coarser textures. OldÂˇ fashioned barrel-style ice-cream makers (not shown) are similarly affordable and still widely available: these work reasonÂˇ ably well for preparing high-fat ice creams and frozen custards.

MODERNIST CUISINE AT HOME

JACCARD TENDERIZERS Pounding meat may be a satisfying way to tenderize it. But using a Jaccard tool is more discreet and just as effective: it doesn't change the look or shape of the meat, but can have a big effect on the texture. The Jaccard tenderizer contains a set of slender blades (usually 15-45 of them) that are poked through meat in a regular pattern . The blades cut through the meat fibers but leave the basic structure of the meat intact. A Jaccard can be used on nearly any piece of red meat or poultry; just take care that bones don't break the fine blades. After cooking the meat, you will find that its punctures are

virtually impossible to detect-until you take a bite. By cutting some but not all of the muscle fibers, the Jaccard makes the meat seem more tender, while preserving its basic mouthfeel. Won't poking your meat full of holes let the juices leak out? Actually, Jaccarded meat is juicier, for two reasons: the weakened collagen fibers shrink less during cooking, and the cuts free up myosin protein that thickens juices. Together, these effects reduce the moisture lost during cooking by 5%-15%. Jaccarding also accelerates the abso rption of brines or marinades. Jaccarding can be used in combination with injection, below. THE HAZARDS OF PUNCTURING Poking, perforating, or otherwise puncturing pieces of meat can conta minate it. If you are inserting a temperature probe, injecting brines or marinades, or tenderizing meat with a jaccard, you will push any pathogens o n t he surface of the meat into the interior. This slightly in creases the risk of food borne illness. Adhering to safe cooking times and temperatures, however, wi ll mitigate the risk. If you are really concerned, then you can dip the meat in hot water to blanch it before puncturing it. Water at 76 Â°C/ 170 oF sanitizes the surface in one second. Or quickly sear th e surface with a blowtorch (see page 14). Contam in atio n occurs only on the surface; you don't have to coo k food all the way through to pasteurize it.

Jaccards cost $25-$40 at any kitchen-supply store.

INJECTORS Brining makes meat juicier and e nhances its flavor, but salt diffuses through flesh very slowly. You can double or triple the rate of diffusion by injecting the brine deep into muscle tissue. You might give a whole chicken, for example, a couple dozen individual injections, evenly distributed . This is easy to do quickly by using a butcher's syringe. Next, immerse the meat in the same brine that was injected-called a covering brine-and let it rest so that the brine diffuses fully and evenly. A whole chicken is brined within two days rather than five. Skip the covering brine if the meat has skin on, which acts as a shield and can become rubbery when brined, or if you intend to heav ily sear the

outside. In our Roast Chicken recipe on page 238, for example, brined skin would be too salty and would not crisp enough during cooking. We inject the meat from the neck and back cavities, without piercing or brining the skin. Injection works with thin marinades, too. Barbecue sauce is too viscous (we tried). But when we diluted the sauce until it was more like a brine, the flavor infused nicely.

Meat injectors usually include two large needles: one having a slanted tip for marinades with spices; and one that is perforated so as to diffuse liquids. GunÂˇstyle injectors cost $50-$60: good stainless-steel syringes cost $20 online. Syringes less expensive than that, and those with plastic parts, are easily clogged.

People tend to make brines w ith too much salt, which results in meat with a dense and hammy texture . See page 132 for brine recipes having salt levels that won't compromise the texture of the food.

MODERNIST CUISINE AT HOME

1 SIEVES AND STRAINERS Sieving allows you to separate liquids from solids, and vice versa. Think of the colander that you use to drain water from pasta or ball-shaped tea strainers (which we use to infuse broths with herbs). Strainers also allow you to make tender, cooked so lids finer by passing the food through the fine mesh with the back of a spatula, scraper, or lad le. In this way, sieving is the ultimate refinement. This simple bit of extra effort is how restaurant chefs create either a potato puree of pure silk or a completely clear broth. It is easy for you to do at home with the right equipment.

Sieves come in varying shapes and degrees of fineness. Pros tend to use a fine mesh or conical sieve and a tam is (or drum sieve). A cone shape maximizes the force as you press the solids of a stock or sauce into the bottom with a ladle. The drum shaped tam is refines the texture of soft foods, such as riced potatoes or butter, as you push them through its fine mesh. Ourfavorite tam is are lab sieves. We recommend owning three: 75 microns (for sieving fat to make consomme or to clarify butter), 300 microns (for velvety purees), and 850 microns (for sifting powders such as flour and nut meal).

. ....·.. ... • •• • • • ••

• •• • • • • •• • •• • • ••• ••

Lab sieves come in many degrees of fineness. Some are so fine that you can't tell they're perforated-but wait a moment. and they even sieve out fat. They are well worth the $35-$75. It doesn't matter if they're made of stainless steel or brass.

The great French chef joel Robuchon passes his potato puree through a tam is three times. That's why its texture is so silky (that, and the fact that it's ha lf butter).

COUNTERTOP TOOLS

CONVENTIONAL MODERNIST CUISINE

2 FURTHER READING I N

MODERNIST CUISI N E

How to find the sweet spot of a grill: see pages 2路14-17 The history of baking: see page2路101 Cooking with moist air: see pages 2路176- 177, 180-181 Microwave myths: see page 2路190

Cooking is as old as humanity itself-it may even

ditional cooking techniques actually work (and, too often, don't). Stoves are a vast improvement

Catching Fire: How Cooking Made Us Human,

over our ancestors' open fires, but they still leave a lot to be desired in both efficiency and accuracy.

traces the development of our large brains, small mouths, dull teeth, and narrow pelvises to Homo

sapiens's taming of fire as a tool to convert raw food

It's the norm for a conventional oven to be off by 14 ' C / 25 ' For more from the temperature

to cooked, which has more usable energy. When

to which it is set. And most ovens offer no con-

you bake a loaf of bread, roast a leg oflamb, or even flip a burger on the grill, you're invoking

trol over one of the most important elements in

time-honored techniques passed down not just from generation to generation but from the dawn of our species. These traditional methods of cooking have become as familiar and comfortable as our own kitchens.

So it may come as a surprise to learn how tra-

have shaped our evolution. The anthropologist Richard Wrangham, in his intriguing book

baking: humidity. On the other hand, some kinds of conventional cooking gear are more useful than commonly appreciated. People generally think of microwave ovens as unworthy of more than reheating leftovers and popping popcorn, but as our recipes

!. -

COOKING GEAR in chapter 22 on Dishes for the Microwave illus-

most useful to have. We also cover many of the

trate, this technology is actually superb for steam-

innovative new cooking tools available today, such

ing vegetables, drying beef into jerky, and frying

as induction cooktops and home combi ovens.

herbs. Pressure cookers, which are ubiquitous in

And illustrated instructions guide you step-by-

India and other countries, suffer in the United

step through the cooking techniques that you'll

States from an outdated perception of their safety.

find in some of our recipes.

We use them nearly every day to extract amazingly

With this little bit of knowledge, you can save

intense flavors and to slash the amount of time it

a lot of money and effort. You'll learn, for example,

takes to cook the components of a meal.

that fancy copper pans can't compensate for an

Understanding how your conventional cooking gear works will help you to make the best

Even cooks who have modern gear such as water baths and high-tech thermometers often find that stoves, ovens. pots. and pans are at the center of the action in the kitchen. This chapter explains what you need to know about these essential cooking tools.

underpowered burner, and that a pressure cooker can easily transform a cheap cut of meat into some-

use of it. In this chapter, we peer inside some

thing amazing. So keep an open mind; some of

of the appliances we've cut in half to get a closer

our most cherished notions about cooking deserve

look at the science and technology that make

a closer look.

them tick, and we examine the features that are

STOVES The stove is the modern version of the ancient

burner, wait for the coil to reach the right tempera-

cooking fire. It is more convenient and easier

ture, and then put the pot back on.

How .efficient is yo ur cook ing method? We ra n tests in our laboratory to ca lculate the energy each device required to heat a measured amount of water. The res ults: Electric coil: 42% efficient Induction burner: 56% efficient Water bath, unstirred and covered: 85% efficie nt Water bath, stirred and covered: 87% efficie nt

Induction coo ktops typically ge nerate magnetic fields that oscillate 25,000 times a second. That can produce so me vibration in the pan. Most of the vibration is above the ra nge of human hearing, but yo u may hear a slight humming noise. At partial power, the cook top turns the fie ld on and off seve ral times a seco nd, which can cause the pan to make an intermittent buzzing so und.

cont~ol,

but the stove still suffers from some

Gas stoves provide much better control over the

intrinsic limitations. It heats food mainly by the

cooking temperature because the flame responds Âˇ

slow process of conduction: the heat diffuses from

quickly to a twist of the dial. .Gas stoves are excel-

the burner through a metal pan and into the food.

lent for quick cooking techniques that use high

That is an inefficient process. Heat streams

heat, such as stir-frying, sauteing, and searing. Âˇ

from below, beside, and above the food being

Experienced cooks enjoy the tricks they can play

heated. It is diverted from the burner to the frame.

with gas, like adding a dash of alcohol to a gravy,

It wafts from the sides of the. pot. It radiates from

tilting the sauce to the edge of the pan, and letting

the lid. If the food is uncovered, heat escapes into

the flame burn off the alcohol.

the air in the form of evaporating water vapor. Heat loss aside, these various forms of inefficiency make cooking more variable. Cooking in a pot or pan is thus quite imprecise.

For precise, reproducible results, though, it's hard to beat induction cooktops. Although induction stoves may lack the sexiness of fire, they are far more efficient. That is because the induction

A batch of food cooks differently in a tall pot than

element doesn't actually generate heat: it produces

it does in a shallow pan, or even in two pans made

an oscillating magnetic field that heats up any

of different metals. Cooking with or without a lid,

nearby ferrous metal. The pan itself becomes the

or on different stoves, or even on different burners

heat source, so the food comes up to temperature

in the same stove can alter your results. Much of

much faster than it would on a coil or gas burner.

what separates an advanced cook from a novice is

Because an induction element doesn't directly

experience in coping with these variables. Hence

heat the surrounding air or intervening surfaces,

the appeal of newer cooking methods, like sous

more than half of the energy it draws reaches the

vide, that are far more precise (see page 48).

food, compared to about a third of the energy for

If you're in the market for a new stove top, you'll find several options to choose from: electric, gas,

a gas burner. Faster response and higher efficiency translates

and induction. Each has its advantages and disad-

into less time spent waiting by the stove. A pot

vantages. Electric stoves are relatively safe, clean,

full of two liters of water boils in less than five

and affordable. They aren't prone to oil flare-

minutes on an induction cooktop, compared with

ups and can't leak gas. On the downside, electric

8-10 minutes on gas or electric stoves. If the pan

coils are slow to heat and slow to cool. To take

is no larger than the heating element, then that

a pot of water from a rapid boil to a low simmer,

heat is also distributed very evenly.

for example, you have to remove the pot from the

Induction cooktops are powerful for their size: built-in elements typically deliver 2,400 watts, about as much firepower as the largest burners on high-end gas stoves for the home. The main drawback of induction ranges has been their cost, but that has been falling rapidly. You may need to buy new pots and pans, however, because pure copper and aluminum pans will not work. You don't have to replace your range to give induction cooking a try. A countertop unit with one element sells for $75-$250, depending on its fea-

Gas Gas stoves are woefully inefficient at directing heat. But natural gas is a cheaper source of power than electricity, and it's delivered without substantial losses en route. so cooking with gas is still a bargain.

Electric Although it is slow to react to adjustments in temperature, the electric stove is the most affordable option.

tures. These are limited by the capacity of wall sockets to 1,800 watts, but that is about as powerful as a typical gas stove.

MODERNIST CUISIN E AT HOME

POTS AND PANS Hanging in a restaurant kitchen like trophies,

comes at a price: the extra mass of metal makes

gleaming copper pans are gorgeous to look at. But

a thicker pan less agile. It is slower to react when

do they really perform better than much cheaper

the burner is turned up high or down low.

aluminum or steel pans? Well, that depends on Will a copper frying pan heat fast? Yes.

on the heat conductivity of the metal. In a typical

Will it respond quickly when you adjust the

copper pan, the temperature across the bottom will vary by no more than 22 •c I 40 •p. But if the

burner? Yes. Will it diffuse heat evenly across its surface?

pan were made of stainless steel, then it would need to be more than 7 em I 23,4 in thick to per-

Not so much. Let's start with the basics. All of the heat flow-

form similarly-and never mind that the weight

ing upward from beneath a pan must go some-

of such a pan would make it impossible to lift!

where. At first, most of it goes into raising the

Fortunately, bonding a lightweight, 6 mm I

temperature of the pan. As that occurs, conduc-

plate of inexpensive aluminum to the bottom of

tion spreads the heat throughout the pan, from

the thinnest, cheapest stainless steel pan produces

hot spots to cool spots.

a pan with nearly the same performance as that

You might think that eventually the temperaA pan that is too thin al lows heat to flow directly from the burner through the pan and into the food before it spreads much to the sides. In other words, the pan transmits the unevenness of the electric coils or the ring of gas flames right to the food. To compensate for the unevenness of the burner, use a pan having a thick bottom. It will come to fu ll temperature less quick ly, but the extra heating time all ows the heat to diffuse horizontal ly as it rises vertica lly.

So the question is: how thick is thick enough? The answer to that does depend to some extent

what you mean by "better."

1/4

of the copper pan. Now put either pan on a tiny gas burner. Per-

ture across the bottom of the pan evens out, but it doesn't because the pan is much wider than it

formance drops. Not even copper is conductive

is thick. So fluctuations in heat from the burner

enough to spread the heat evenly to the far edges

reach the cooking surface before they have time to

of the pan-it is just too far away compared

average out across the pan. Thicker pans and thick

to the thickness of the pan.

planchas (built-in griddles) cook more evenly, but

The bottom line: with a properly sized

they are heavier-and still not perfect. A pan that

burner-ideally one that is about as wide as

diffuses heat perfectly from one edge to the other

the pan itself-any pan, even a cheap and thin

would have to be so thick that you couldn't lift it.

one, can be heated fairly evenly.

When it comes to heating food evenly, the metal

In Modernist cooking, pots and pans are best

the pan is made from is the least important factor.

suited for preparing ingredients, such as sweat-

What matters more are the thickness of the metal,

ing vegetables, and for finishing food cooked

the size of the pan, and the size of the burner heat-

sous vide by panfrying or deep-frying it. The main cooking tasks are often better left to more

ingthepan. The thicker a pan is, the more uniform the temperature across its surface. But this evenness

precise, modern tools, such as those covered in the next chapter.

SAFETY TIPS FOR DEEP-FRYING Our recipes call for frying at temperatures between 190 •c / 375 •Fand 225 •c j 440 •F. That's hot! Frying in oil can be more dangerous than other high-heat cooking methods, so you must follow some simple rules. Make sure your thermometer can display temperatures up to 260 •c j 500 •F. Frying, candy, and thermocouple thermometers usu ally have this much range. You don't want to be fooled by the wrong temperature. Deep-fry food in enough oil that the food floats and does not touch the pan. The related technique of shallow frying uses enough oil to cover at least part of th e food . Use a deep pot. Generally the walls of the pot should rise at least lO em / 4 in above the oil so that there are no spillovers. This also helps contain

splattering and makes cleanup eas ier.

Pat the food dry before you place it in the oil. Use paper towels to soak up excess moisture, which ca n cause violent splattering when it hits the oil. Don't get too close to the oil. Use long tongs, a slotted deep-fry spoon, or a frying basket to place the food gently into the oil and to remove it. Choose a frying oil that has a smoke point higher than the desired cooking temperature. The smoke points of co mmon oils are listed on page xxii. At these temperat ures, oils break down and produce off-flavors. If the oil gets too hot, remove it from the heat. Turn off the burner. You may also need to move the pot carefully off of an electric burner. If you see the oil smoking, it is too hot. Never use water, flour, or sugar to put out a grease fire. And do not try to carry a fl aming pot outdoors. Use baking soda, a damp towel, or a fire extinguish er specifically designed for grease fires to suffocate a fire .

MODERNIST CUISINE AT HO M E

Sweating

Panfrying

Deep-Frying

Sweating vegetables (such as onions, garl ic, sha ll ots, carrots, or celery) is the technique of cooki ng the even ly cut p ieces over medium-low heat until they soften but do not brown. Sweating gets its name from the moisture that Aows out of the vegetab les as the ir cell walls weaken and start to release their liquids. You'll see this tec hni que used in many of our pressure cooke r recipes, suc h as the Pressure-Cooked Paella del Bosco recipe on page 326.

A quick sear over high heat, as we use in t he recipe for Low-Temp Oven Steak o n page 196, le nds an appea li ng appearance, te mp e rature contrast, and a n extra laye r of Aavor to food cooked so us vide. Preheat the pan, then add the oil, and fina ll y add the food to be seared.

Givi ng cooked foo d a qui ck dip in hot o il is a great way to develo p a crispy crust. See o ur Mod ernist Hamburger Patty reci pe o n page 208 fo r an exa mpl e. Sha ll ow fry ing in a deep -sided pa n wo rks as we ll, as lo ng as yo u're genero us wi th the o il; we use that approach when maki ng the So us Vide Buffa lo Wi ngs described o n page 250.

Shallow frying is done using a pan, but it cooks the food more like deep-frying does than like panfrying. Use plenty of oil, and don't worry about the food becoming greasy. Counterintuitively, more oil yields less grease because it keeps the temperature high and the crust thin and less absorbent.

HOW TO Deep-Fry Withou t a Deep Fryer - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - We're big fans of deep-frying as a finishing technique after cooking so us vide. You don't need to own a dedicated fryer. Yo u just need a deep pot

Choose an appropriate frying oil (see page xxii). Peanut, soybean, and sun Aower oils are our favorites for frying at high temperatures.

Add the oil to a deep pot, but fill it no more than ha lf fu ll. Use enough oil so that you can submerge a small batch of food comp letely.

and the proper tools to insert and retrieve the food from a safe d ista nce: long tongs, a slotted deep-fry spoon, or a fry ing basket.

Preheat the oil to the cooking temperature. For consistent results, cook small batches to minim ize the cooling that occurs when you add the food , and warm food to room ternperature before frying it.

Deep-fry the cooked food . Just 30 seconds may be enough w he n you don't want to furt he r cook the in te rio r of the food. Allow the o il te mpe rature to recover between batches.

Pat the food dry with paper towe ls. External moisture causes the oil to splatter.

Drain the food on paper towe ls. Absorbing excess oil removes much of the fat.

CONVENTIONAL COOK I NG GEAR

2 A BUYER'S GUIDE TO PRESSURE COOKERS

The indicator shows two red lines when 1bar I 15 psi of gauge pressure has been reached .

Spring-Valve Pressure Cooker

Electric Pressure Cooker

Pressure cookers that have spring-l oaded va lves a re the best choice for stock- and sauce-maki ng because the va lve seals the coo ke r before it is ve nte d . This feature traps most aromatic volatiles before they ca n escape in t he vented a ir. Fagor brand cooke rs do re lease so me stea m wh en needed to regulate the press ure, but they lose fewer vo latil e aromas tha n open pots do. Where to buy: kitchen-supply stores Cost: about $80 for Fagor; abo ut $200 for Kuhn Rikon

An e lectri c pressure cooker could hardly be easier to use: just plug it in, press the "high pressure" button, and set th e digital tim e r. The downsides are that yo u have to make room for another single-use a ppliance, and you ca n't use it to finish up a dish on th e stove top. Where to buy: kitchen-s uppl y stores, ware house stores Cost: $100 - $135

Jiggling-Weight Pressure Cooker This is the kind of pressure cooker that Grandma had: loud, spewing steam, with no easy way to tell when it reac hes full pressure, and with few of the safety features of their mod ern co unte rpa rts. But when used according to th ei r manu facture rs' instru cti o ns, jiggling-weight press ure cookers a re safe and do the job. Where to buy: kitche n-s upply sto res, garage sales Cost: $35- $50

Pressure Canner Th ese more robu st co usins of press ure coo ke rs are inte nd ed for canning. They a lso work for cook ing, although multiple locks on the lid make them less convenient, a nd they are often made of thin aluminum, so any food touching the bottom burns easi ly. You may be used to venting th e cooker before ca nning, but doing so before cooking releases beneficial aromas, so avo id that te mptation. Pressure ca nne rs often includ e jiggling-weight va lves so that it will be obvious if th e valve fails. Where to buy: kitchen-supply stores Cost: $80 - $200

HOW TO Use a Pressure Cooker - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - Cooks who are new to pressure-cooking o fte n use too mu c h heat and overpressuri ze th e cooker. It's important to reali ze th at overpressurizing the cooker doesn 't m ake the temperature insid e it any high er- it m erely causes the safety valve to release stea m, whi c h all o w s th e w ater insid e to

res ume boiling. Rep eat ed ove rpressuri zation ca n ruin both the fl anges and th e sea l around t he lid. Famili ari ze yourself with the m anufacturer 's instru ctions for und erst anding w hen your cooker is full y press urized, overpre ss urized, and depress urized .

Prepare th e ingredi ents. If yo u w ill be brow ning oni ons o r other aromati cs before press ureco oking th em, save a pan by sauteing th e fo od directl y in th e base of the pressure cooker befo re coverin g it with th e lid.

Add all of th e ingredients, stir, and lock t he lid. Stirring to evenly d istribute the liquid o r fa t is importan t to keep bits fro m burni ng o n t he b ottom of t he cooker. O nce yo u lock th e lid, yo u won't b e abl e to stir aga in .

Most spring-loaded pressure valves are ringed with two lines or colors to indicate low pressure and high pressure. We always cook at gauge pressure of 1bar I 15 psi.

W arm th e cooker on the stove top ove r medium-h igh heat . W atch or li sten fo r th e cues that the coo ker has reached full pressure, and t hen turn th e heat dow n to low. Adjust the heat as needed to kee p th e cooker full y pressurized.

Start t im ing the coo king as soo n as the cooker reaches th e ta rget ga uge pressure given in t he recipe. If yo ur coo ker has a spring- loaded pressure va lve, t he valve should pop up just to t he lin e, not beyo nd

A jet of steam or log from an overextended pressure valve means that the pressure cooker is overpressurized, and for safety's sake the valve is relieving the excess pressure. Overpressurizing can bend the flanges that hold the lid

it. Th e cooker should not hiss loudl y. If yo u have a jiggling-weight pressure val ve, th e w eight should move three to fi ve tim es a

tightly on the pot; they won't seal properly, and the pressure cooker will then be useless.

minute; it shouldn't dance around wildl y.

MODERNIST CUI SINE AT HOME

2 5

After coo king, remove the pressure cooker from the heat, and let it cool. You ca n simply

SAFETY TIPS FOR PRESSURE-COOKING

let the coo ker sit for several minutes to coo l down if the food can to lerate some add i-

Read and follow the safety instructions in the manual that came with the cooker.

tional cook ing (as stocks ca n, for exam pl e). For foods that are more time-sensitive, such

Rel eas ing a pressure cooker lid while its contents are sti ll hot can sp latter boi ling water or food all over the kitchen-o r you. Before opening the coo ker, use the press ure-release button, let the coo ker sit, or cool the pot und er running water. The pressure valve wi ll sink down fully when the cooker is depressurized and is safe to open.

as risottos, run lukewarm water over the rim of the lid to depressurize the coo ker qui ckly. (Don't let water run into th e pressure va lve.) Some cookers have a manual quick-release knob or dial; be sure to read

Before coo king, check that the ring of rubber lining around th e lid isn't dried out or cracked. Th ese gas kets don 't last forever; replace them as reco mmended by the manufacturer.

the manufacturer's instructio ns on how to use this feature safe ly. Never atte mpt to open a pressurized cooke r. Not only will it spray hot liquid, but yo u'll also lose a lot of the flavorful vapors .

M ake sure th e rim of the pot and the gasket are cl ean; any food particles stuck there cou ld break th e sea l.

Set th e coo ker in the kitchen sink, and unlock the lid. If the lid is difficult to open,

Don't fil l th e cooker more than two-thirds full. For beans and grains, which tend to swe ll as they coo k, fill the cooker only half ful l.

don 't force it; let th e coo ker coo l longer until it opens with little res ista nce.

Avo id coo king foods that froth, like oatmeal and pasta . Th e foam ca n block the steam valves and pressure-release vents.

If the food isn't done, si mply finish it on the stove top without sea ling th e lid. Alternatively, ret urn the press ure cooker to full

Tip the opening away from yo u as you lift th e lid off th e coo ker to protect yo urself from th e steam that is released.

pressure, and co ntinu e cook ing.

Use ca nning tongs to remove hot canning jars from the cooke r, an d let the co ntents coo l slightly befo re opening th e jars.

Pressure-Cooking in Cann ing jars Several rec ipes in this book take adva ntage of coo king in canningjars (a lso known as Maso n jars). We use them for ingredients that would otherwi se need an intensive amou nt of stirring, such as polenta, and fo r making smal l batches of rend ered fat, garlic co nfit, or extracted jui ces. Always leave at least 1.3 cm /Y> in of head space when fi lling the j ars. The j ars should also neve r tou ch the bottom of the cooker. Set th em on a

metal rack or trivet-o r, in a pinch, on crump led sheets of aluminum foil. Add enough water to cover the rack so th at the pressure cooker can build up stea m . After fully tightening the lids of the jars, loosen them a quarter turn; otherwise, th e pressu re may crack the jars or blow their lids off inside th e coo ker. After using a j ar for pressure-coo king, inspect the glass fo r cracks befo re cooking with it aga in.

CO NV EN T I ONA L COOK IN G GEAR

CONVE NTIONA L OVENS When you dia l a temperature into your oven, it matches that thermostat setting by monitoring a dry thermometer, which se nses the "dry-bulb temperature." The real baking te mperature of yo ur food is the "wet-bulb te mperature"-what a thermometer wou ld read if it could sweat. That wet-bu lb temperature starts out low, and it rises dramatically as relative humidity increases. Yet there's no way to contro l it on a conventiona l oven.

Anyone who has ever overcooked (or undercooked) anything in an oven knows that baking is capri-

or from high to low. Their performance at very low temperatures-those most useful for Modernist

cious. It can take years of experience to fully master the idiosyncrasies and quirks of a home

recipes-is typically even less predictable and

oven. Several common limitations of these appliances conspire to make it difficult to get even,

Second, some parts of the oven are hotter than others. The door, especially if it has a glass

consistent results.

window, emits the least radiant heat of all the oven walls. The back corners of the oven tend to

First, most home ovens have only crude temperature controls. They tend to be poorly calibrated

consistent.

and often vary by 14 â&#x20AC;˘c I 25 â&#x20AC;˘p or more from their

be quite a bit hotter than the average temperature. Even the cleanliness of the oven walls matters

set points as the heat element switches on and off

because dark spots emit more radiant heat than light spots do. The third and biggest problem with ovens is that they don't take humidity into account, so they give you no control over the real baking temperature of your food. Compare a hot steam room to a dry sauna at the same air temperature, and you'll immediately see why humidity matters. The steam room feels much hotter to your skin because your sweat barely evaporates when the air already contains so much water vapor (enough that the room actually fogs up) . When water (or sweat) evaporates, it absorbs a very large amount of heat energy from the surface it is leaving; that's why it cools your skin. And that's why you can stay in a hot but dry sauna longer than you can in a steam room at the same temperature. Food "sweats," too, after a fashion; as the oven heats up, the food loses moisture to the air through evaporation. Until the outside of the food dries or the humidity of the air in the oven rises, evaporation from the surface of the food keeps it cooler than the air around it. But the degree and duration of that effect depend on the size of the food, its water content, the weather, and other factors. Humidity inside a conventional oven, unfortunately, is largely under the control of the food, not the cook. It depends on how full the oven is. A small test batch may bake very differently than a full oven-load of the same food. Newer kinds of ovens, known as combi ovens and water-vapor ovens, do offer some control over humidity. Like sous vide water baths, they

Aconvection oven, such as this Viking model. uses a powerful fan to circulate the air. Evenly heated air can transfer heat more rapidly, but it doesn't address inconsistencies in radiant heat that lead to inconsistent baking. The conventional wisdom-that a forced-convection oven "cooks 25% faster" or "10 degrees hotter" than a conventional oven-is oversimplified. Convection makes a bigger difference when heating thinner foods than it does thicker foods, but there is no simple rule that applies in all cases.

MO DE RNIST CUISIN E AT HOM E

produce much more consistent results than traditional ovens do. This extra control commands a premium price, but more affordable options appear every year.

2 HOW TO Calibrate Your Oven Each oven has its own personality. The one in your home is no exception. You don't necessari ly und erstand why it does what it does. You have only a vague idea what the temperature in your oven actually is. But by trial and error yo u have figured out what you have to do to ac hieve the res ult you're trying to achieve. Wouldn't it be nice to add some predictability to the situation? We have a remedy for this relationsh ip: calibrate your oven.

Preheat the oven. Then clip the probe of a digital oven thermometer (see page 8) to the rack . The end of the probe should hang in the air and point toward the center of the oven. Close the oven door, and wait a few minutes for the temperature to recover. Write down both the temperature you set and the true temperature shown on the thermometer.

To do that, you need a good digital thermometer that includes an oven-safe probe and wire lead, as well as some patience. If you have graph paper or a spreadsheet program, you can make a quick chart to get a handle on how the temperature in your oven fluctuates as heat leaks out the door and the thermostat turns the burner up and down. You can a lso map the hot and co ld spots inside.

Move the probe to various spots in your oven, if you're curious. Oven walls a lways radiate heat unevenly. The walls are thicker or darker in some spots than in others, and some parts of the wall are closer to the burners or heating e lements than others. So th e temperature can fluctuate by tens of degrees from one spot to another. Be sure to give the oven time to recover its temperature after you close the door.

Repeat these measurements at various temperature settings- say, every 50 degrees. The thermostat is often much less accurate at the low e nd of the scale than it is at higher temperatures. You might also record how long it takes your oven to preheat from room temperature to various set points; you can then more accurately estimate the total time that baking recipes will require .

TIPS FOR

Better Baking Given the many factors that influ e nce baking, it seems a small wonder that any cook eve r achieves consistent results. Here are a few simple suggestions to minimize the variability of your oven.

Pay attention to browned spots. Move the food around and rotate it as often as necessary to kee p hot spots of radiant heat from scorching some parts of the food while other parts undercook.

Measure the performance of your oven. At a minimum, use a reliab le thermometer and the step-by-step procedure above to check the temperature of the oven in th e center, where the food will bake.

Look into modern ovens. New models of comb i ovens that can control both the dry-bulb and wet-bulb temperatures are starting to appear at prices that home cooks can afford. For details, see Combi Ovens, page 38.

Preheat the oven. Preh eating takes longer than most people would like because the goal is to heat the walls of the oven, not the air. But once the oven is preheated, it holds a large rese rvoir of heat energy, so it can quickly resto re the temperature after you open the door to insert or check on the food.

CONVENTIONAL COOKING GEAR

COMB! OVENS The combi oven is the most versatile kitchen tool

to 175-225 ' C I 350-440 ' F. The higher the

we know. It can do just about anything a conven-

temperature, the faster the surface of the food

tional oven, convection oven, steamer, or sous vide

desiccates and browns.

water bath can do: steaming, proofing, incubating, dehydrating, and baking. Combi ovens can supply moisture directly, by injecting water in its vapor form-steam-into

Combi ovens are not as adept as we'd like, however, at holding temperatures below

60 ' C I 140 ' F. We have used them to cook fish, which we most often prefer steamed to about

the oven chamber. A setting for humidity lets

45 ' C I 113 ' F, and to prepare steaks, which we

cooks set the wet-bulb temperature we mentioned

like rare to medium rare (50-55 ' C I 122-131 ' F).

on page 34 by controlling how much steam gets

But the temperature in a combi oven varies by

mixed in with hot, dry air. That ability makes

2-5 ' C I 4-9 ' Fat temperatures this low, whereas

combi ovens the ideal tool for steaming poultry,

a water bath can hold low temperatures within

meats, and all manner of plant foods. Just set the

1-2 ' C I 2-3 ' F. As when using a water bath to cook

oven to steam mode with humidity at 100%, and

sous vide (see page 60), the usual approach to

set the temperature anywhere from 30-100 ' C I

combi oven cooking is to set the oven temperature

85-212 ' F.

1 ' C I 2 ' F above the target core temperature you

In their convection mode, combi ovens can

want the food to reach. Some combi ovens are self-

dehydrate, brown, and bake food with more

cleaning, and certain models are programmable

precision than conventional tools offer. Set the

as well. You can, for example, program one of

humidity to 0% and the temperature to 30-90 ' C I

these ovens to first sear a roast, and then cook it

85-195 ' F to quickly dehydrate food without cooking it. For browning, increase the temperature

for many hours at low temperature, and finally to hold it warm until serving time. The result easily matches or even exceeds the quality obtained by slow-cooking sous vide. Roast chicken comes out with extremely crispy skin and a succulent interior; fried eggs come out with both the yolk

Combi ovens were once only accessible to professional chefs. but manufacturers such as Electrolux. Gaggenau, and others now make home models that are a fraction of the size and cost.

and white cooked perfectly. For decades, combi ovens were available only as extremely expensive commercial appliances. But now manufacturers have started making versions for the home kitchen. Consumer-grade combi ovens differ from their professional counterparts in a few ways: they are less precise and powerful, and they have narrower temperature ranges, so they can't do high-temperature roasting or oven frying. But these modern ovens still vastly outperform conventional ovens in both accuracy and versatility. We predict that they will eventually become quite common as they become increasingly affordable.

Steaming Best for: fish (40 - 55 ' C/ 105-131 ' F); eggs such as stea med om e lets, fried eggs, and custards (65 - 82 ' C/ 150-180 ' F); vegetabl es (85 -100 ' C/ 185-212 ' F). For egg re cip es, see pages 146 a nd 152 .

MODERNIST CUISINE AT HOME

2 WAYS TO USE A COMBI OVEN Combi ovens excel at a wider range of cooking techniqu es than any other appliance. But a water bath produces better

results when cooking so us vide for long periods of time at temperatures below about 60 Â°C/ 140 Â°F.

Baking

Roasting

Best for: breads, pizza; can inj ect steam as desired to keep dough moist until you want a crust to form

Best for: meats, pou ltry, root vegetab les

Two-Step Cooking

Dehydrating

Best for: creating contrast in g textures and cooking each co mpo nent of a whole at its best temperature

Best for: jerky, fru it and vegetab le leat hers (for a recipe, see page 129)

Cooking Sous Vide Best for: cooki ng larger volum es of food than a wate r bath allows

MICROWAVE OVENS The microwave ove n was invented by Percy Spe ncer in 1945, when he was work ing as an engineer at Raytheon on a radar sys tem. Spencer got the idea for the ove n when he noticed that a chocolate ba r in his pocket began to melt shortly after the radar was turned on.

The microwave has a poor reputation as a secondclass appliance not appropriate for "real" cooking. That criticism is undeserved: microwave ovens do an excellent job for many cooking tasks. Black cod turns out beautifully, for example, as does steamed bok choy. If you seal vegetables with a little liquid in a plastic bag or in a container covered by taut plastic wrap, the microwave creates enough steam

Inexpensive microwave ovens achieve their power levels by turning the microwave generator on and off several times a second. A power level of 50%(o r level five on a 10-level oven). fo r example, generates microwaves during only half of the cooking time. Newer microwave ovens use inverter

technology to control the strength of the microwaves directly. In most coo king situations, it's hard to detect a difference between the two kinds of powe r co ntrol.

turntable for quite a while, all but unaffected by the rays bouncing everywhere around them. Put a single kernel of popcorn in a microwave oven set on high, for example, and it may take minutes to pop. But when a bagful of kernels are

to counteract its tendency to cook unevenly. And,

all crowded together into one mass, the microwave heats up that larger target rapidly, and the first

perhaps surprisingly, microwave ovens are the best tools we know for making beef jerky or fried herbs

kernels pop in less than a minute. This phenomenon explains, incidentally, why the last few

for garnishes.

kernels in the bag are so recalcitrant to pop-

The secret to successful microwaving is the Goldilocks principle: choose food that is not

they are small and isolated, so they absorb the

too small and not too big. Because of the physics

energy slowly. Like conventional ovens, each microwave

of microwaves (see page 42), they heat small objects less quickly than larger ones-just the

oven has its own idiosyncrasies. Through experi-

opposite of what happens in a conventional oven. The microwaves deposit energy a couple of

settings for various dishes.

centimeters deep into the food, not just at the surface. So volume matters more than surface

for browning; some include a convection oven as well. Whichever type of microwave oven you have,

area, at least up to a point. In fact, pieces of food

experiment with its many applications.

Popcorn was one of the first foods cooked in a microwave oven and remains one of the most popular.

that are much smaller than the 12 em I 5 in wavelength of microwave radiation may sit on the

MODERNIST CUISINE AT HOME

mentation, you can determine the best cooking Hybrid devices incorporate a broiler element

2 WAYS TO USE A MICROWAVE OVEN There's more to microwaving than just making popcorn and

(see page 342) presents a variety of recipes that illustrate the

reheating leftovers. Chapter 22 on Dishes for the Microwave

strength s of this tool.

Cooking

Defrosting or Melting

Dehydrating

High power best for : stea ming vegeta bl es (see Sichu a n Bo k Choy, page 346, and Mi crowaved Eggpl ant Pa rm esa n, page 344); qui ck ly softe ning de nse vegeta bl es th at are high in water co nte nt, such as arti chokes, potatoes, a nd o ni o ns low and moderate power best for: seafoo d (see Mic rowave d Bl ac k Cod with Scalli o ns and Ginge r, page 348); te nd e r meats

low power best for: thaw ing froze n food; me lting butte r a nd othe r fat-ric h foo ds, such as choco late

Moderate power best for: drying frui t a nd vegeta bl e leath e rs; ma kin g je rky (see Mi crowaved Beef je rky, page 350, and Cri spy Beef Stra nds, page 352)

Frying

Warming

Puffing

Moderate power best for: cri sping herbs (see Mi crowave- Fri e d Pars ley, page 354) a nd te nd e r gree ns, such as ca rrot to ps

low and moderate power best for : re heating previously coo ke d foods to serv ing temperature

High power best for : puffi ng snacks, such as tapi oca puffs o r lndi anpapadum; puffing grain s, such as ba rl ey o r popcorn

CONVENTIONAL COO KING GEAR

GRILLS As old as humanity itself, grilling was the cooking

temperature to drop. The imprecise temperatures

technique that set our primate ancestors on the

and uneven heat distribution make it difficult

evolutionary path to becoming civilized humans.

to grill food to the right level of doneness. The

The ability to control fire distinguished Homo

approach we prefer is to cook our food sous vide

erectus from other animals and allowed the most

or by some other method that is easy to control,

basic level of nutritional and culinary refinement.

and to then use the grill only for a final searing

Little wonder, then, that our craving for the flavor

that imparts a great flavor and crust.

of food charred over an open flame is practically universal. The secret to the flavor of grilled food is the

Now you're grilling with gas Gas grills are a great substitute fo r charcoal grills. They te nd to heat more eve nly. You get the sa me grilled flavor beca use drips offat sti ll hit a hot surface (typically artificial rocks or metal plates) and flare up in puffs of flavorfu l smoke. Gas grills offer mo re co ntrol ove r the intensity of heat than coa ls dobut because we use the grill only fo r fast sea ring, our grill is always turned to high.

master griller stoke a fire, and you'll see him rake

dribbles of juice, laden with natural sugars, pro-

coals around or perhaps adjust a vent under the

teins, and oils, that fall onto the hot coals and

grill. Rarely will you see him add more coals.

burst into smoke and flame. By catalyzing myriad

Instead, he's making the fire hotter by increasing

chemical reactions, the intense heat forges these

the amount of oxygen. We accomplish the same

charred juices into molecules that convey the

goal by aiming a hair dryer or fan at our coals.

aromas of grilling food . These new molecules

A hair dryer can help get the fire going, too.

literally go up in smoke, coating the food with the

Regardless of how you start the fire-kindling,

unmistakable flavor of grilled food. This is the

a little chimney, a blowtorch-the coals are not

reason that meats have a pronounced grilled flavor,

ready for grilling until they are uniformly covered

and vegetables, devoid of natural fat, don't.

by gray ash. The entire surface of the coals should

As much as people love grilling, grills are

We have an unusual way of creating the intense heat that we want for a 30-second sear. Watch a

be burning, and once the corners are hot, the

hard to control. Hot coals cool slowly, so you

added airflow of a blower will cause the rest of

must adjust the draft well before you want the

the coals to burn much more quickly.

MO DER NI ST CUI SINE AT HOM E

COO KING SOUS VIDE Years ago, when we first started cooking sous vide, it felt like a revelation. The taste and texture of

any other cooker that can hit the target temperature you set and hold it there to within a degree

the food was perfect-every time. The practical

or two. When the food reaches the target temperature or time, you take it out, give it a quick sear

benefits, like being able to store and later reheat our creations without sacrificing any of their subtleties, were also huge. After cooking just a few dishes this way, we were hooked. Cooking sous vide is easier than its fancy name might suggest. You simply seal the ingredients in a plastic bag (you can also use a canning jar), and then place them in a water bath, a combi oven, or

or other finish, and serve it. That's it. The method yields results that are nearly impossible to achieve by traditional means. A venison tenderloin cooked sous vide at 52 'C / 126 'F has an unmatched juiciness and is perfectly cooked edge to edge without the ring of gray, overcooked meat you often get from conventional

3 Both of these tenderloins started at the same weight. One steak (left) was cooked in a pan to a core temperature of 52 'C/126 ' F-but more than 40% of the meat was overcooked. The other steak was cooked sous vide to the same temperature, and then seared with a blowtorch to yield a juicier steakthat is done to perfection from edge to edge.

methods. Beef short ribs braised at 58 ' C I 136 ' F for 72 hours are melt-in-your-mouth tender, yet pink and juicy. The delicate, custard-like texture of an egg poached at precisely 65 ' C I 149 ' F is amazing. The idea of preserving and cooking food in sealed packages is ancient. Throughout culinary history, food has been wrapped in leaves, potted in fat, packed in salt, or sealed inside animal bladders before being cooked. People have long known that isolating food from air-accomplished more completely by vacuum sealing-can arrest the decay of food. Packaging food also prevents it from drying out.

Such mastery over the heat pays off in several important ways. It frees the cook fro m the tyranny of the clock, for example. Traditional cooking with a range, oven, or grill uses high and fluc tuating temperatures, so you must time the cooking exactly; there is little margin for error. With just a moment's inattention, conventional cooking can quickly overshoot perfection. When cooking sous vide, in contrast, most foods will taste just as goo d even if they spend a few extra minutes at the target temperature. So you can relax and devote your attention to the more interesting and creative aspects of cooking. Precise control and uniformity of tempera-

Although sous vide literally means "under vacuum" in French, the defining feat ure of the sous

ture has two other big advantages. Fi rst, it allows you to cook food to an even doneness all the way

vide method is not packaging or vacuum sealing; it is accurate temperature control. A computer-

through-no more dry edges and rare centers.

controlled heater can warm a water bath to any low temperature you set, and it can keep it there

MODE R N I ST CUISINE

Second, you get highly repeatable results. The steak emerges from the bag just as juicy and pink every time.

for hours-or even days, if needed. Combi ovens are not quite as accurate, but like water baths they

A final important benefit is that the closed bag creates a fully humid environment that effectively

bathe the food with uniform heat on every side.

braises the food, so ingredients cooked this way are often noticeably juicier and more tender. Food cooked sous vide doesn't brown, but a simple sear adds that traditional flavor where needed so that you can have the best of both worlds. Cooking sous vide isn't complicated or expensive. In this chapter, we guide you through the various kinds of sous vide equipment and supplies available for home cooks. We also explain the basics of how to use them and how to chill, free ze, and reheat food you've cooked sous vide.

Getting started with cooking sous vide doesn't require a big investment in new gear. Agood slow cooker, when connected to a digital temperature controller. does just fi ne for simple dishes, and costs less than $200. For other options, see pages 62-65.

2 FU RT HER REA DI NG IN MO D ERN IST CUISI NE

Th e history of so us vide at home: see page 1-73 FDA rules on cooking and storing food sous vide: see pages 1-182, 186, 189

Simplified standards for cooking sous vide: see page 1-193 How vacuum packing works: see page 2-212 A guide to chamber sealers: see pages 2Âˇ214-221 How to use rigid vacuum containers for storage: see page 2-226 Cooking in multiple water baths: see pages 2-248- 249 Cookingfruits and vegetables so us vide: see pages 3-286-293

FOUR SIMPLE STEPS The four basic steps in cooking so us vide are preparation, packaging, cooking, and finishing. Most of our recipes call for cooking to a specific core temperature, meaning you remove the food from the bath as soon as the temperature at the center of its thickest part hits the target value. If you set the temperature ofthe water bath or oven to just a degree or two higher

than the targettemperature, you won't have to worry abo ut overcooking. This approach works well for tender red meats, poultry, fish and other seafood, and certain fruits and vegetables. Tough meats, however, often take time to tenderize. So our recipes for tougher foods typically indicate how long to hold the food at the target temperature.

Step l: Preparation

Step 2: Packaging

Cut individual portions so that they are equal in thickness.

To vacuum seal the food , place portions in separate sous vide bags, optionally add oil, and seal. For details, see page 56.

Prepare and organize the ingredients for cooking so us vide much as you would for any other cooking technique. Usually, you want to cut the food into individua l portions because sma ll er pieces take less time to cook. Make the portions as simil ar in thickness as possible so that when cooked together they are all don e

Food is usually packaged before cooking it so us vide in a water bath (the most common method); if you just put the food directly in the water, some of the flavor and juices could

at the same time. You can add flavors by seasoning, marinating, brining, or curing the food before cooking it. You can a lso change the color or firm the texture of certain ingred ients by searing or blanching them before cooking.

wash away. Restaurants and caterers who cook so us vide vacuum seal the food in special plastic bags. Vacuum-sealed bags are less likely to float, and they allow cooked food to keep longer in the refrigerator after cooking, which is handy for commercial operations that make many of their dishes in advance. Home vacuum sealers are now widely available and easy to use (see page 54), but you don't need to vacuum pack food to cook it so us vide. Except when cooking for very long periods of time or when you want to store food after cooking it, zip-top bags work fine . Canning jars offer another convenient alter-

See page 58 for tips on removing the air from zip-top bags.

native in many situations. If you use a combi oven rather than a water bath to cook so us vide, you don 't need any package at all-just put the food in an open pan, and stick it in the oven.

You can use canning jars instead of bags for some foods.

MODERNIST CUISINE AT HOME

3 Step 3: Cooking

You can cook many foods so us vide in a combi oven without packaging them.

A kitchen sink or cooler can maintain water temperature long enough to cook salmon or steak (see page 198).

Both water baths and combi ovens require preheating, which usually takes 15- 30 minutes, before the food goes in. (You can minimize the preheating time of your bath by filling it with hot water from the tap.) The bath or oven temperature you select will vary depending on the kind offood and the degree of doneness you prefer. The recipes and tables we include in Part Two are a good starting point, and experience will guide you to the temperatures that produce the results that you like best. When cooking to a target core temperature given in a recipe or table, set the water bath or oven 1-2 â&#x20AC;˘c / 2-3 â&#x20AC;˘F hotter than the target temperature. (Although setting the bath much hotter does accelerate cooking, it makes timing trickier, so we don't recommend it.) Use a probe

If bags float, use binder clips or a wire rack to hold them underwater; the food should be fully submerged.

thermometer to keep tabs on the food temperature (see How to Check the Core Temperature, page 66) until you gain confidence in knowing how long particular foods of a given thickness take to cook this way. The cooking time required varies as a function of both the kind of food and its thickness. As a rough rule, doubling the thickness of the food quadruples the cooking time. So adjust the cooking time if your food is thicker or thinner than what we specify in the recipe. Note, however, that you don 't need to adjust holding times; once the core has hit the target temperature, the holding time doesn't vary with thickness. You can experiment with longer or shorter holding times, however, to achieve different textures. Each kind offood responds differently as cooking continues.

Step 4: Finishing

Sear food in a pan, on a grill, in a deep fryer, or with a blowtorch (our favorite method).

Add sauces and garnishes to complete the dish.

Food cooked so us vide takes on a texture and appearance similar to that of food that has been poached or steamed. If that's acceptable, simply open the bag, and transfer the food to a serving plate. Some foods, howeversuch as a medium-rare steak-look and taste much better if you give them a seared crust. Searing not only browns the food but also generates flavorful compounds that form only at high temperatures. These taste and

aroma components give roast beef, grilled chicken, and panfried salmon their unmistakable, irreplaceable flavors. Because the interior of the food is cooked to perfection, you want to use very high heat to quickly sear only the exterior of the food. Pansearing is perhaps the easiest method, but you can instead use a blowtorch, a deep fryer, or a grill (see pages 14, 27, and 44).

COOKING SOUS VIDE

GETT ING THE AIR OUT Will plastic containers leach harmful chemicals into my foo d? Since writing Modernist Cuisine, we've been asked many times to comment on the safety of cooking in plastic bags. The bottom lin e is that bags made expressly for cooking so us vide are perfectly safeas are oven bags, popu lar brands of zip-top bags, and stretchy plastic wraps such as Saran Wrap. The plastic that comes into co ntact with the food is ca ll ed po lyethylene. It is widely used in containers for bio logy and chem istry labs, and it has been studied ex tensive ly. It is safe. Do avoid very cheap plastic wraps when cooking, however. These are made of polyviny l chlorid e (PVC), and heating them presents some risk of chemicals leachi ng into the food.

The chief reasons to package food without air before cooking sous vide are simple: most unpack-

a machine, called an edge sealer, that sucks the air out and then uses heat to seal the bag closed

aged foods get messy in a water bath, and air-filled bags float, so the food in them cooks unevenly.

foods; liquids tend to get sucked into the vacuum

But there are other good reasons as well. Air is a poor conductor of heat, so the food heats faster and more uniformly without air around it. Even more important, water needs air to evaporate into; exclude the air, and you squelch evaporation, which both cools the food and dries it out. Consistent temperature control is critical for Modernist cooking, and cooking without air helps provide this consistency. Packaging food without air can be as easy as dipping a plastic bag of food in a bowl of water and allowing the weight of the water to squeeze out the majority of the air. Or it can be as quick and convenient as inserting the edge of a textured bag into

MOD ERNIST CUISINE AT HOME

(see page 56). Edge sealers work best with solid pump as the bag collapses. Vacuum sealing and canning are the only safe approaches when storing food for long periods, but sealing isn't necessary when food will be served shortly after cooking. You can remove air from a bag by lowering it into water or running it over the edge of your countertop. Then either press it closed (for zip-top bags) or seal it with a $50 impulse sealer (for sous vide or oven bags). Alternatively, you can buy a variety of zip-top bag that includes a port and handheld pump. Any of these methods work for our sous vide recipes, except for the few that specifically call for vacuum sealing.

VACUUM SEALERS The easiest way to get started with vacuum sealing is to bu y a n edge sealer, which costs about $100 a nd is well suited for home use. In the United States, Food Saver is the most common brand. The edge sea ler works by sucking the air out of a speciall y textured bag. Resta urants use chambe r vacuum sea lers (shown at right), whic h cost $1,500-$3,50 0. They offer the most re liab le seal. And, unlike edge sea lers, they ex pe rtly seal liquids, which a llows for some neat tricks-like impregnating watermelon with strawberry juice (see page 59).

SAFETY TIP FOR VACUUM SEALING Vacuum-sealed food is not the same as ca nned food. Even in the absence of oxyge n, any anae robic bacteria on or in the food w ill co ntinu e to grow. So yo u should store food in vacuum -sealed bags only in a refrige rator or freezer. In ge neral, U.S. Food and Drug Administration guid elines state that yo u can kee p vacuum-sea led food in th e refrige rator for five days or in th e freezer indefi nitely.

Five layers of materia l are lam in ated together to make an edge-sea ler bag. Four inn er layers made of polyethylene are cap ped by an outer layer of tough, gas- impermeab le nylon. This stru cture makes the bags quite durable and particularly good for storing frozen food.

{

Special bags for edge sealers have a waffled texture on one sid e th at creates small chan nels through which th e air ca n be removed. Smooth bags won't work in edge sealers, but are su itable for use

Vacuum sea ling is a great way to store food. Oxygen causes chemical damage, so sealing the food without air keeps fish smell ing fresh, meat from discoloring, and produce from turning brown for far longer than refrigeration alone can. It also he lps to prevent chem ical reactions that can give re heated

in chamber vacuum sealers.

foods a warmed-over flavor.

MODERNIST CUISINE AT HOME

Solid foods work best in edge sealers; liquids tend to get sucked into th e vacu um pump as the bag collapses. If that happens, the pump may fail to remove all of the air in th e bag o r to sea l it properly- not to mention that the fl avo rful liqu id you wanted to cook in winds up in the machine, rather than in the bag.

Electronic controls automatica lly switch off the pump and activate the sea ling bar when nea rly a ll the air has been removed from the bag.

Rubber sea ls close off the vacuum reservoir. Were it not for the waffle-like texture of the bag, these seals wou ld clamp the so us vide bag so tightly that no air cou ld get through . The ridges in the bag act li ke straws, but they can also all ow liquid to get sucked in .

The sea ling bar is heated e lectri ca lly. It gets just hot e nough to fuse the two sides together so that the bag sea ls co mpl etely.

: · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · A vacuum pump pulls air o ut of the bag through the reservoir.

The vacuum reservoir is where air gets sucked out of th e bag.

COOKING SOUS VIDE

Hoses co nnected to the reservoir, the vacuum pump, and a n exte rnal vacuum port carry the ai r o ut.

HOW TO Use an Edge Sealer Edge sea lers bring vacuum sea ling within reach of most hom e cooks . An edge sea ler requires specially textured bags. It doesn't handle liquid s

well, but you ca n freeze or otherwise soli dify li quids before sea ling them (see the next page) . Sea l food o nl y when it is cold.

Use a premade textured bag, or make yo ur own by cutting a suitab le length of waffle-textured plastic from a roll and usi ng the sea l-only option to close one end. Flip th e top 4 cm / l Y., in of the bag in side out to kee p it clean and preve nt a fau lty sea l.

Fill the bag with food, and unfold the lip of th e bag. Deli cate food s, such as sa lm on, wi ll keep their shape better if yo u first wrap them in cl ing fi lm.

Place th e open end of th e bag in th e vacuum sealer so that it rests on

Close the li d, and engage the vacuum pump (on a FoodSaver, for exa mple, press the Seal butto n). The pump wil l stop on its own. Although it is poss ible to seal liquids by press ing the Sea l button to stop the vacu um just before th e liquid gets sucked in, it makes quite a mess if you r timing is off. For extra security, yo u ca n p lace

the sea ling strip and extends into th e vacuum reservo ir (o n so me models, this happens automati ca ll y when you insert the bag in to the sea ler). Stretch th e bag fl at across the sea ling strip as you place it to prevent any wrinkl es, w hi ch cause a poor sea l.

a seco nd sea l about 5 mm /Y., in above the first sea l.

Using an impulse sealer An impulse sealer o nly seals; it doesn 't remove air. But this stapler-looking tool has its advantages. Impulse sea lers cost about half as much as edge sealers. And they are handy tools for sealing oven bags and making customsized so us vide bags from a bulk roll of plastic: two o ptions that work better for storage and high-temperature cooking than zip-top bags do. An impulse sea ler ca n also sea l liquids w ithout risking the mess that usually occurs w hen using an edge sea ler.

MODERNIST CUISINE AT HOME

3 SOLUTIONS FOR COMMON SEALING PROBLEMS

Problem: Liquid was sucked into the vacuum-pump rese rvoir, preventing a good sea l and making a g iant mess.

Solution: Freeze the liquid first, and then add it to the bag as cubes of ice or frozen broth.

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lj.

Solution: Use a semiso lid form of the liquid . Add fat in the form of b utter instead of oi l, for examp le, or so lidi fy a stock by freezing it o r using ge lati n (see page 98).

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Prob le m: The food was not sealed tight ly enough. So luti o n: Check the bag and the seal for leaks; repackage the food , if necessa ry. Cool warm foods before sea ling; hot food g ives off vapo r.

Problem: The bag was punctured .

Problem: The bag sealed tightly, but now air has gotten back in. So lution: Wrinkled or dirty seals often fail eventual ly. Cut off the top of the bag and reseal it, or repackage the food in a new bag.

Solution: Wrap any bones or sharp edges in protective padding, such as p lastic wrap. Alternatively, use a heavier bag.

Probl e m : The shape of the food was distorted and ruined. So lution : Use a weaker vac uum setting, if avai lab le, for deli cate items . Or wrap th e food with a thin, high-quality plast ic film to he lp it ho ld its shape. Use a rigid co ntainer if you a re sea ling the food on ly to store it.

Problem: The bag burst or the sea l failed during cooking. Solution: Use bags rated for high temperatures; some plast ics weaken when heated to 70 •c / 158 •Fand fail at tempe ratures above 80 •c / 176 •F.

COOKING SOUS VIDE

HOW TO Seal Food in a Zip-Top Bag If you need to sea l food along with a liquid, or if you don 't have a vacuum sea ler, ordinary zip-top bags offer a handy alternative to vacuum sealing. Th e two methods b elow allow you to quickl y remove much of th e

air from the bag. Th e water-displacement method is th e more effective techniqu e, and it do esn't require as much liquid in the bag to remove nearly all of th e air.

BY WATER DISPLACEMENT

Fill a bowl or sink with water, and place the food along with some oil or water in a ziptop bag. Th e liquid is needed to remove as much air as possible and to preve nt the bag from flo ating. If you'll be cook ing the food immediately, there's no need for an extra bowl: just use th e warm wate r bath itse lf to

Slowly lower the open bag into the water. Th e water squeezes the air out of the bag and presses the plastic tightly around th e food.

Seal the bag when th e water leve l is 1-2 mm /Y1â&#x20AC;˘ in below the zi p sea l.

sea l th e bag.

ON THE EDGE OF A COUNTERTOP

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Pl ace the food and eno ugh liquid to cove r it in a zip-top bag, grasp th e top of the bag, and hang the filled part of the bag over the counter so that the top of th e liquid is just below the edge of th e countertop. This method requires enough liquid in the bag

Hold the bag taut, an d lower it slowly. Th e edge of th e co unter should squeeze the air out of the bag.

to completely surro und th e food; otherwise, ai r pockets form around the food.

MO DE RNI ST CUI SI NE AT HOM E

. .

When the sea l reaches th e edge of th e co unter, zip it closed.

3 HOW TO Use a Handheld Pump If yo u don't have the countertop or cupboa rd space for a n edge sea le r, a more co mpact a lte rn ative is a special kind of zip-top bag that includes a built-in port for a ha ndh e ld pump. Th e pump costs abo ut $2 0; the bags are re lative ly ex pens ive, but so me are re usa bl e afte r was hing.

Placethefoodinthebag in asingle layer, leaving the top third of the bag free. Zip the sea l closed.

Like a n edge sea le r, a ha ndh e ld pump does n't work we ll w ith liquids. Ported bags te nd to lose vacuum over time, so they a re best suited for im med iate cooking and short-term sto rage offoods that you use regul a rly, such as cheese and fresh produce .

Press the ha ndh e ld pump over the port on the bag, and push the start button.

l et the pump run until it has sucked out the ai r a nd sea led the bag a round th e food .

HOW TO Compress Fruits and Vegetables - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - Vacuum sea li ng d e li cate fruits a nd vegetables is tri cky: they a re too porous to ho ld their structure und er pressure, so the process often c rushes them. But there are creat ive ways to turn this drawback to an advantage as a way to manipulate texture a nd co lor. Pineapple,

Peel the fruit or vegetable if necessary, and cut it into evenly sized pieces. In the case of strawberries, shown here, we like to comb ine them with a bit of sugar.

Arrange the food in a single layerinasousvid e bag, and begin vacuum sea ling it. The vacuum causes air pockets, ca ll ed vacuo les, in th e plant cells to burst.

As more vacuo les co llapse, the food darkens.

l etthe producerestinthebagforatleastlOminutes after the vacuum sealing is complete before using it.

for exa mpl e, becomes pl easa ntly d e nse whe n it is vacuum sea le d . Comp ressed peaches and watermelon see m juicie r a nd d e nse r. After compressing prod uce, keep it sea led until yo u're ready to use it.

COOKING SOUS VIDE

COOI<ING AND REHEATING A pot, a good thermometer, and patience are tools

cooks as fully as you want it to. Then you wait for

enough to cook sous vide. A slow cooker outfitted

the food temperature to come into equilibrium

with an external temperature controller is more

with the bath temperature.

convenient and reliable. Better still is a commer-

This approach, called equilibrium cooking, is

cially made water bath that combines the heater,

more forgiving than traditional cooking methods.

temperature control, and insulated container

Timing does matter, but the food can sit in the

all in one unit-and adds wire racks to boot.

bath a little longer than the recommended time

In basic sous vide cookers, the water sits still;

(within a 10% margin or so) without dramatic

professional-grade baths typically include pumps

consequences. Even irregularly shaped pieces of

that keep the water circulating. On the follow-

food cook properly. The cooking time must be

ing pages, we walk through your options for each

long enough that the thickest parts get done, but

type of water bath.

it doesn't harm the thin parts to spend extra time

Once you have a water bath set up, how do you

Tender meats are usua lly cooked to a particular core temperature; for example, fi let mignon should be cooked to 50 ' C/ 122 ' F for rare, 53 ' C/ 127 ' F for medium rare (see page 192). The steak is done as soon as the deepest part of the meat hits that target temperature. The time it takes to reach th is depends on the thickness of the steak. Tougher cuts, in contrast, must be held at the target temperature for a long time to tenderize. We often cook short ribs, for example, for 72 hours at 58 ' C/ 136 ' F. You can get good but different results with higher temperatures and shorter cooking times. Chicken breasts and other poultry cuts are often held at the target temperature for a different reason: to kill potential pathogens and improve the safety of the food.

complex dish, you can often let various compo-

of two basic techniques: either cooking the food

nents of the recipe sit in the bath until it is time

to a target core temperature, or bringing the food

to assemble them-just set the bath tempera-

to the target temperature and holding it there for

ture lower than the cooking temperature of the

a specified time.

components.

In the first technique, a recipe or reference

Equilibrium cooking can take a very long

table provides the temperature to which the deep-

time. The slow pace is a result of the basic phys-

est part of the food should cook. You set the bath

ics of heating: heat flows quickly into the food

temperature 1-2 ' C I 2-3 ' F higher. Most bath

at the start, when the food is much cooler than

controllers and kitchen thermometers are accurate

the bath, but slows dramatically during the last

only to within a degree or two (see page 8), so

part of the cooking process as the temperature

the slightly hotter bath helps ensure that the food

difference between the two narrows. Fortunately,

This bath is overcrowded. An overcrowded bath obstructs convection currents in the water that are needed to equalize temperatures, so hot and cold spots develop, and the food cooks unevenly. Noncirculating baths are particularly susceptible to overcrowding. Put only as much food into the bath as will fit with ample circulation space in between. You may need to work in batches or use a larger water container.

at the target temperature. If you are making a

cook in it? All of the recipes in this book use one

MODERNIST CUISINE AT HOME

3 it's unattended cooking that leaves you free to do other things. The results are worth it. Cooking time depends more on the thickness of the food than you might expect, so if your food

The best way to quickly cool food to refrigeration temperatures is to dunk your sealed sous vide bags in ice water, which can be as simple as a sink or bowl of cold water with lots of ice cubes.

is thicker or thinner than a recipe calls for, timing

Once the food is chilled, it can then be stored, still

can be tricky to estimate. As a rough rule, cook-

sealed, in a freezer or in the enclosed drawers at

ing time is proportional not to the thickness of the

the bottom of the fridge, which maintain the most

food but to the thickness squared. A steak that is

stable temperatures. Avoid the shelves in the door,

5 em I 2 in thick, for example, must sit in a water

which are the warmest part of a refrigerator.

bath for about four times as long as a steak that is

You can put frozen bags of food straight into

half as thick before it reaches medium rare. For

a water bath, and do the thawing and cooking in

this reason, we generally cut large pieces into indi-

one step. Cooking from frozen obviously takes

vidual portions for cooking sous vide.

longer (often considerably longer) than cooking

The second technique, called hold-at-

the same food from refrigerator temperature

temperature cooking, keeps the food at the

does. How much longer is hard to estimate, so

target temperature for a certain amount of time.

it's imperative to use the technique of equilibrium

This technique is sometimes required to pasteur-

cooking that we described above. When cook-

ize the food for safety; more often, however, the

ing from frozen, make sure you set the bath tem-

goal is tenderizing tough cuts of meat. Short ribs

perature to at least 55 ' C I 131 ' F, high enough to

cooked at 58 ' C I 136 ' F for 72 hours, for example,

prevent bacterial growth while the food sits in

end up utterly unlike the same ribs cooked at

the bath for an extended period of time. Foods

82 ' C I 180 ' F for 10 hours.

best cooked at temperatures below that shouldn't

Once we got the hang of cooking sous vide, we found ourselves using it as much for its convenience

be cooked from frozen; thaw them first in the refrigerator.

as for the terrific results it produces. If you have a

Perhaps surprisingly, it takes exactly as much

vacuum sealer and a good-size bath, you can pre-

time to reheat foods cooked sous vide as it does

pare many single-portion bags and cook them all at once. Any you don't use right away will keep

to cook them from raw by using the equilibrium method. For that reason, it doesn't make sense to

much better in the refrigerator or freezer than left-

cook fish, tender meats, or vegetables in advance.

overs typically do. And reheating is a cinch.

Tough meats are a different matter because they

When it comes to chilling, thawing, and reheat-

require long holding times at the target tempera-

ing food, most people are careless. They set hot

ture. Reheating only requires that you bring them

food in the refrigerator, or they leave food out on

back up to the original target core temperature;

the counter for too long, letting bacteria grow.

you don't have to hold them there again. Short ribs

Cooked food should be cooled quickly, for

cooked for 72 hours and then frozen, for example,

zone" from 10-50 ' C I 50-122 ' F. The longer that

may take just one hour to defrost and reheat. A water bath is an excellent tool for reheating

food remains in the danger zone while cooling,

leftovers. The best approach is to chill the left-

the more likely that the few bacteria remaining

overs after the meal, and then vacuum seal them

two reasons. First, bacteria thrive in the "danger

Some chefs cook with the bath temperature much hotter than the desired final core temperature. This approach reduces the margin of error, however, and also introduces more of a temperature gradient within the food, thus undermining two of the biggest benefits for home cooks of cooking sous vide. We cover this technique, called hotter-than-core cooking, in Modernist Cuisine, but we don't recommend it.

in it after cooking will multiply and dangerously

and put them in the refrigerator. Red meats should

repopulate the food. The warmer end of the zone

be heated to their original cooking temperature;

poses the greatest risk because bacteria multiply

for other foods, try 60 ' C I 140 ' F. Avoid reheating

faster in warm environments.

at temperatures above 65 ' C I 149 ' F.

Second, rapid cooling maintains juiciness and a fresh-cooked flavor better than slow cooling can. A quick chill thickens and gels juices before they can leak out.

WATER BATHS Water baths come in two major varieties: those that circulate the water, and those that don't. Noncirculating baths are more affordable. The SousVide Supreme, a model specifically designed for home use, costs $250-$400. These baths rely on convection-the natural tendency of hotter fluids to rise and colder fluids to sink-to even out any temperature differences within the bath. A noncirculating bath is sufficient for most home uses because home cooks typically don't add and remove food from the cooker frequently. When using a bath of this kind, keep bags offood small and well separated so that

convective currents can flow around them easily. Professional chefs prefer circulating baths, which distribute heat uniformly by pumping the water around. The stronger the circulation, the better it prevents hot and cold spots, and the more food you can safely pack into the bath . Laboratoryquality baths integrate the pump, heater, and temperature controller within an insulated tank, but cost upward of $2,500. Immersion circulators designed for kitchen use, such as the PolyScience unit shown on the next page, cost less than $800 and attach to any water tank or container.

Noncircu lating Water Baths

A spacer prevents the so us vide bags from impeding · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · ·: heat movement and protects them from being scorched by the heating e lement. It is important to keep the bags from touching the hot bottom of the reservoir.

· · · · · · · · · · · ······· Two wa lls with insu lat ion in between boost the ene rgy efficiency of the cooke r and he lp it mainta in an eve n temperature throughout.

An insulated lid prevents rapid heat loss, · · · · · · · · · · · · · O both directly and also indirectly by lim iting evaporation, which coo ls the water near the surface rapidly. If heat escapes from the top ofthe bath fasterthan natural convection can mix in hot water from the bottom, cook ing can become uneven. Temperature controls allow you to set the desired water temperature, which the cooker then maintains precisely and accurate ly.

The heating element is typically · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · mounted beneath the water rese rvoir. This arrangement protects the heater from damage and simplifies cleaning of the water basin.

· · · · · · · A w ire rack sepa rates bags of food so th at natural co nvection ca n kee p water circulating to moderate hot spots. Even with a rack in place, it is easy to overstuff the bath, so remember to leave room for curre nts.

If your water bath doesn't have a lid and you will be cooking for a long period of time, you can cover the bath in stretchy plastic wrap to slow evaporation and heat loss. Or, if you will be adding and removing bags frequently, Ping-Pong balls make an effective cover. They move aside easily when you insert or retrieve food from the bath.

3 Circulating Water Baths A pump built into this im mersion heater ci rculates th e wa ter and helps maintain a mo re co nsiste nt temperature throughout the bath .

Your oven thermostat probab ly allows the air temperature to vary by at least 10 •c / 18 •F, w hereas a sous vide cooker can maintain tem perature to w ithin about 2 •c; 4 •F-and ve ry good units stray less than 0 .5 •c / 1 •F.

A heavy-duty polycarbonate co ntainer p rovides insul atio n · · · · · · · · • · · • · · · · · · · · · · • · · • · · 0 w hile lett ing yo u see t he food yo u're cooking. Co ntainers like this cost about $20 at specia lty ki tchen-s upply stores and come in a range of sizes. Yo u ca n also use a pi cni c co oler, which retains heat bette r th an polycarb onate d oes.

The temperature readout ca n be changed at th e fli ck of a swi tch to display eit her degrees Celsius o r d egrees Fahrenh eit.

• · · • · · · · · · · · · · · · · · The casing of t he imm ersion circulato r protec ts its heating element and pump. It also prevents th e heating element from sco rching th e so us vid e bags.

The screw mount ca n be attached to co nta in ers of many sizes, shapes, and materi als. Thi s feature makes th e unit very versati le.

.... . . . . .. . "M in " and "max" lines indi cate th e acceptabl e range for the w ater leve l. Th e w ater inlet and o utl et are just below th e "min " level.

. . .. • . · • · · · · · • · · · · • · · • Flow adjustment slider al lows you to tailor the pump output.

COOK IN G SOUS VIDE

IMPROVIS ED WATER BATHS You can cook so us vide with any setup that heats food accurately at low temperatures. It doesn't have to be fancy. Clip a digital thermometer onto the side of a large pot full of water, fill your kitchen sink, or put hot water in a cooler, and you've got a serviceable water bath . These improvised approaches can't maintain a steady temperature for more than a few hours, but for shorter cooking times they can cook food just as well as any commercial so us vide cooker. An improvised setup replaces the sophisticated computerized thermostat of a special-purpose cooker with an even Kitc hen Sink o r Bathtub For cooking fish or cooking beef to medium rare, the hot water from your tap may be hot enough. Choose a target core temperature (see the tables on pages 192 and 281), adjust the water to be 2-5 oc; 4-9 째F hotter, fill a clean sink or tub, and add your bagged food. If the bags float, use silverware to hold them down. Refresh with hot water as needed.

more sophisticated biological controller: you. You must use a digital thermometer to measure the water temperature accurately. You' ll find it easier to keep the temperature steady if you use a much greater volume of water than of food (in other words, don't crowd the bath). Start with water that is 2-5 째C/ 4-9 째F higher than the target core temperature of the food, and with food that is at room temperature; chilled or frozen food will cool the water too much. Always cover the container between temperature checks, and always clean the container thoroughly before filling it with water. Coo le r An insulated ice chest makes a particularly efficient improvised bath . Fill a cooler at home with hot water that is 2-5 oc; 4-9 째Fabove the target temperature of the food you 'll be cooking, and take it with you on a picnic. The insulated walls should hold the temperature for several hours, but check it occasionally. See Sous Vide Steak in a Cooler, page 198.

Pot o n the Stove Perhaps the simplest way to cook so us vide is in a pot on the stove top. Clip bags of food and athermometer to a wire cooling rack, and hang it on the rim of the pot. Heat the water to the target temperature, adjust the burner to a setting that maintains that temperature, and start cooking. A heavy, high-quality pot will retain heat better than a thin-walled one, although metal is not a great insulator. Cover the pot between temperature checks.

3 Rice Cooker or Slow Cooker You can make a do-it-yourself version of a noncirculating water bath for $100 - $150. Start with a budget slow cooker or rice cooker that has a simple mechanical on-off or low-mediumhigh switch; avoid any that is programmable or has digital controls. Fill the cooker with water, and plug it into a digital temperature controller. At least two companies-Fresh Meals Solutions and Auber Instruments-make controllers for just this purpose. A temperature sensor attached to the controller hangs in the water. You set a desired temperature on the controller, and it then switches the power to the cooker on and off to maintain that temperature.

Pan in the Oven Heat your tap water to the target temperature of the food, and then fill a deep baking dish. Set your oven to its lowest setting, typically around 100 â&#x20AC;˘c or 200 "F, and place bags offood in the water. The oven will maintain the temperature of the water reasonably well, but experiment first by placing an oven probe in the water and checking it a her an hour to see how much it has heated or cooled. If the temperature remains stable enough, you can use this method to cook longer than with other improvised setups, especially if you cover the pan .

Hot Tub Believe it or not, if you like your fish lightly cooked (as we do), then a hot tub can do the trick. The water in most hot tubs is set to 38- 40 "C/ 100-104 "F. Try it at your next party!

HOW TO Check the Core Temperature (Without Obsessing About It) One of the benefits of cook ing so us vid e is that it greatly reduces anxiety abo ut time and temperature. If you leave the food in for a little more time than the recipe suggests, the consequences aren't nearly as perceptibl e as they are when you cook on a stove top or in a hot oven. That said, doing a quick temperature check every once in a whi le will he lp you learn how long it takes to heat vario us foods to particular temperatures.

Use either of the two methods below to insert a digital thermometer into the food without interrupting the cooking. But do this in moderation: there is no need to check the temperature frequently. Many of our recipes ca ll for cooking food to a specific core temperature. What we mean by "core temperature" is the temperature at the center of the thickest part of the food-t he part that heat reaches last as it diffuses through the food .

ZIP-TOP BAG IN A BATH For more on selecting and using a digital thermometer, see page 8.

Using an Insta nt-Read Thermometer

While the food is cooking, li ft out just the top of the bag, and open it. Keep the bag subm erged in the water so that the food doesn't coo l, which would change the cooking time, and so that the bag doesn't fill with air.

Insert the tip of the probe into the middle of the thickest part of the food. Hold the thermometer in p lace until the reading stabi lizes at the core temperature; the first reading it gives may be the higher temperature near the surface of the food.

Remove the thermometer, wash it wel l with soapy water or sanitize it with an antibacterial hand wipe, and then rinse it well.

Lower the bag into the water until just the top edge is above the surface (see How to Seal Food in a Zip-Top Bag by Water Displacement, page 58}, and then press the top closed again.

Clip the bag to th e side of the bath so that the top is above the water lin e. Make sure the food in the bag is comp letely sub me rged . Run the lead wire from the probe between the lid and the rim of the cooker so that the li d cove rs the bath as tightly as possible.

Us ing an Ove n Probe Thermometer

Before cook ing, inse rt the tip of the probe into th e middl e of the thickest part of the food. Push the probe in at an angle so that it re ma in s in place during cooking. Check that the probe hasn't penetrated all the way to the other side.

Lower the bag into the water until just the top edge is above the surface (see How to Seal Food in a Zip-Top Bag by Water Displacement, page 58}, and then press the top closed around the probe. The seal shou ld hold the probe in place, but it will not be watertight.

MODERNIST CUISINE AT HOME

3 VACUUM-SEALED BAG IN A BATH

Fill the bag with food, and then seal it. When cook ing mu ltiple bags of food in one bath, place portions of the same size in each of the bags. That way, yo u can leave the thermometer in one of the bags during the entire cook ing process; the temperature of all the others wil l be approximate ly the same. Place the probe in the largest piece to ensure that all of the pieces cook fully.

Before dunking the bag in water, press a small square of weather-stripping tape or other thick foam tape (ava il ab le from hardware and home improvement sto res) onto the outside of the sea led bag. Place the tape a bit off center from the part of the food you want to check so that yo u ca n insert the thermometer probe at an angle. Need le-tipped probes are prefe rab le because FoodSaver bags are tough and not eas ily pierced by larger probes unless the food in side is dense, such as steak . Insert the thermometer probe through the tape and bag at an angle into the center of the food at its thickest part. It may help to place the bagged food on a cutting board first. The foam tape forms a sea l around the probe that keeps water out of the bag. The probe must remain in place to preserve the seal.

Carefu lly place the bag with the probe into the bath, and thread th e lead w ire betwee n the lid and the rim of the cooker so that the lid cove rs the bath as tightly as possible.

SAFETY TIPS FOR USING THERMOMETERS Keep in mind that piercing food w ith a thermomete r effective ly pushes into your food whatever is outside the bag, incl uding any bacteria or viruses in the water o r on the surface of the food or the thermometer probe. That's one reason we don't recommend checking the temperature too frequently. To prevent contam in ation, steril ize yo ur thermometer each time it comes o ut of a piece offood. We find that sanitizing hand wipes are more co nveni ent for this purpose than was hing with soap and water, but both work. Rinse the probe well with clean water after washing o r wiping it. Also change the bathwater afte r every mea l you cook. just because the food is in a bag doesn 't mean the water stays cl ea n.

COOKING SOUS VIDE

What it is : tapioca maltod Px trin Derived from: tap ioca

Modernist chefs have added a growing number of foods to their pantries, and these new ingredients are enabling amazing creativity in the kitchen. But some people fee l suspicious of ingredients with unfamiliar names, such as agar and xanthan gum. We are frequently asked , "Aren 't your dishes chock-full of chemicals?" Well, yes- all foods, including the most natural and organic, are composed of

Used to: turn fats into powd"" Whereto buy: onlirw Cost : $7 for 5 0 g Try it in : I ish Spi n• Mi x (S<'<' p ag<' U7), otlwr spin• bknds

What it is: milk protPin Derived from : cow 's milk Used to: add tPxturP wlwn foa min g liquid s Where to buy: grocpry and lwalth -food storPs Cost: Sfi for SO g Try it in : Clams in ChowdPr Sa U< P (S<'<' pa g<• 292), Ultrafroth y Milk Shak<• (spp pag<• 2J:l)

chemicals. But nearly all of these chemicals are derive d from natural ingredients or processes, and many have been used for decades. They are

NZORBtT M

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MDNOSODIU GLUTAMATE NET

AGAR AGAR NET WT. 500g (1. 1/b)

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PA I 045

NOT YOUR PARENTS' SUPERMARKET supermarkets. But if you 're interested in adding diversity to

Since the invention ofthe self-service grocery store in 1916 by a small shop in Memphis that grew to become the Piggly

your cooking and your palate, venture outside that aisle shop-

Wiggly chain, most people have bought their groceries at

ping and wander into other kinds offood purveyors.

Farmers' Ma rkets

Nearly every community now has a farm ers' market. In the Seattle area, where we live, the Pike Place Market has been going strong for generations. But we go less frequently than we used to because small farmers

now also gather for a weekly market closer to us in Bellevue, Washington, a city of less than 125,000 people. If you 're not aware of a market in your area, ask around-there probably is one.

Wa rehouse Stores

Susta inable Aquacu lture Farms

Surprisingly, shopping clubs such as Costco, Sam's Club, and PriceSmart often offer unique seasonal ingredients in bulk quantities at a fraction of the usual cost. We've seen green chickpeas and wild salmon here in Seattle; New Yorkers might find beautiful scallops.

Marine wildlife is dwindling at an alarming pace, and conventional fish farms have developed a reputation for causing ecological harm . But sustainable forms of aquaculture are now in operation. You can buy sustainably farmed fish and shellfish online and at specialty retailers (see page XIX for sources).

~ ~~ =~~~-=-

~=--=-~~-

Internet Ve ndors Sometimes the cheapest-or only-way to buy specialty items is to get them online. Shipping is a small percentage ofthe cost for small, light items such as spices (see page XIX for sources). Websites for professional chefs, such as chefrubber.com and le-sanctuaire.com, are good sources of modern gelling agents and thickeners, as well as exotic baking ingredients. Check the reviews on food forums, such as egullet.org, to find out which products work the best.

MOD ERNI ST CU I SINE AT HOME

4 Specialty Markets

Shop owners who spec ia lize offer higher-quality produ cts, hard-to-find ingredients, a nd more knowledgeable service. At specialty shops, you can find intriguing imports, such as co mpl ex oli ve oils fro m Liguria, Italy, potent

fruit vin ega rs from the southwest of France, aged cheeses from a ll over the world, and a rtisan-cured meats, such as the Ibe rico ham shown a bove. Th e shops are often an o utlet for boutique food producers from the local a rea.

Local Butchers

Food scientists, chefs, and ethicists all agree that the best-quality meat comes from a nima ls that a re ra ised hea lthy a nd slaughtered humanely. The scientific reason is that stress ca uses animals to release hormones

that negatively affect the texture an d taste of the resulting meat. Loca l and artisanal butchers make an effort to find the best suppli ers. Some online sources a llow you to buy directly from the farmer (see page XIX).

Growing Your Own Food Millions of people are rediscovering something we've known fora long time: if you grow your own food, you can eat it at the peak of its perfection . That is why there are probably more chefs running farms now than at any point in history. You can start sma ll -all you really need is a burlap sack, soi l, and seeds. Where ca n yo u find the best ingredients? Good local restaurants a re an excellent source of knowledge. The Internet ca n also help yo u find things in your own co mmunity as well as on the other side of the world .

INGREDIENTS

TAKE A WALK ON THE WILD SIDE Globalization has caused an explosion of culinary diversity in cities and towns of all sizes. Taco stands and sushi bars are now ubiquitous, and people are also increasingly aware of regional culinary nuances, such as the differences among Tha i, Vietnamese, and Malaysian foods. Immigrants who carried their culinary traditions with them have created a demand for specialty markets that serve the needs of particular ethnic communities. But these markets also provide wonderful opportunities for locals to experience new foods and taste other cultures. We encourage you to step

outside of your comfort zone and try ingredients that are unfamiliar. No matte r what yourfood tradition, there are plenty of others to sample. Accept at the outset that you won't like everything you try. That's okay. Learning to enjoy strong tastes, strong odors, or unfamiliar textures takes a certa in amount of practice. If you are open to experimentation, and you taste without expectation, you will discover new flavors you love, but never knew existed. We use some of the ingredients listed below in the recipes in this book; the others are simply among our favo rites.

Japanese Markets

Indi an Markets

A good source for: white soy sa uce, matcha (powd ered gree n tea), genmaicha (green tea with toasted brown rice), aged rice vinegar, sake, miso, natto (fe rm ented soybea ns), preserved che rry blossoms, black sesa me paste, Kewpie brand mayon na ise, shichimi (chi li spice mix), dried baby sardines and crabs, bonito fl akes, kombu and nori (dried seaweed), fresh wasabi, kinome (p ri ckly as h) leaves, myoga (ginge r bud), maitake a nd enoki mushroom s, satsuma-imo a nd Ok in awa n sweet potatoes, kabocha sq uas h,fuyu and hachiya persimmons, yuzu (Japanese citrus), short-grain ri ce varieties, quail eggs, sea urchin, sas himi-qu ality seafood

A good source for : mustard oi l; ghee; whole sp ices suc h as Cey lon ci nnamon, nutmeg, ajowan, cardamo m, co riander, cumin, mace, and

mustard seeds; black sa lt; saffron; orange blossom wate r and rose water; fres h and dried chilies; amchoor (dried so ur ma ngo); anardana (dried pomegranate); alubukhara (dried sour plums); preserved black lim e; raw cas hews; fresh turm eric, chi ckpeas, an d cocon ut; curry a nd fenugreek leaves; snake beans; Indi an eggp lants; re d bananas; tamarind; various pickles; long-gra in rice varieties; black a nd ye ll ow le nti ls; breads such as papadums a nd paratha; flours and mixes for dosa, chapat i, and idli

Chinese Markets A good source for: dri e d fe rm e nted black beans, toaste d-sesa me o il, Shaoxing a nd michiu wines, dri ed lily bud s and orange pee l, Sichuan pepper a nd chili es, black fu ngus, cassia, li co ri ce root, c hrysa nth e mum leaves, lotus root, taro root, peav ines, lychees, Ion ga n fruit, re d dates, bitte r a nd winter me lons, da ikon radi shes, Chin ese eggpl ant, fres hwate r chestnuts, rive r potatoes, ga rli c chives, fresh bamboo shoots, sa ltpreserved duck eggs, /up cheong (C hinese sa usage), fresh du ck, offa l, tofu

MODERNIST CUISINE AT HOME

4 Southeast Asian Markets

Latin American Markets

A good source for: fish sauce, shrimp paste, dried shrimp, ch ili sauces a nd sp ice pastes, preserved turnips, palm sugar, coconut cream, star anise, ga langa l root, mangosteen and durian fruit, lemongrass, Thai eggplant, betel and Makrud lim e leaves, straw mushrooms, baby corn, ngo om (rice paddy herb), fresh coconut, roasted rice flour, tap ioca starch

A good source for : fres h masa harina; crema; Cotij a cheese a nd queso fresco; fresh banana leaves; tomatillos; nopales (cactus paddles); e pazote (herb); avocado leaves; Mexican orega no; fresh and dried chili es such as poblano, puja, and guajillo; dried co rn husks and cha mom il e; hot sauces; chicharrones; fres h lard; pork sk in; beef tongue

Korean Markets

Middle Eastern and African Markets

A good so urce for: ssam jang (spice condiment), gochujang (fermented ch il i paste), kim chi and other fermented vegetables, black garlic, preserved seaweed, dried ferns and seafood, duk (soft rice cakes), chi li threads, bean sprouts, negi (giant scallions), fragrant pears, taro, mung bean flour, monosodium glutamate (MSG), oxtails, fresh pork belly

A good so urce for: pa lm oi l; harissa (ch ili sa uce); gra ins such as teff, fonio, millet, bulgur, and sorghum; egusi (gourd), baobab, and ogbona (bush mango) seeds; kola, cashew, and palm nuts; dates; green bananas; cassava; taro; okra; guava; injera flatbread; ouarka pastry sheets; couscous; p lantain; mahlab (cherry stone spice); preserved lemons; dried roses; bush mint; gra in s of paradise; fres h goat

BROWN

Wt 25lb (11

INGREDIENTS

FORAGED FOODS: AUTUMN AND SPRING Modernist chefs such as Marc Veyrat, Rene Redzepi, and David Kinch have helped create a burgeoning movement of cooking with obscure wild ingredients. Now cooks at all levels have been discovering that foraging for wild ingredients presents a whole new realm of possibilities. Each season brings an array of wild edibles. Here in the Pacific Northwest, autumn is the season of mushrooms: porcinis, black trumpets, matsutake, hedgehogs, lobster mushrooms, and many others (pictured above). Winter is a slow time for foraging, but wild mushrooms are still available in some areas. Oxalis (wood sorrel), morels, stinging nettles, and fiddlehead ferns sprout in

CD ® ®

0 ® ® 0

pine black truffle

® ®

yellow foot chanterelle stinging nettles

sea bean

@ golden chanterelles @ lichen

maitake mushroom

@ cauliflower mushroom

wild currants

@ matsutake mushroom (pine mushroom)

fried chicken mushroom

black trumpets

MO DE RNIS T CUI SINE AT HOM E

the spring (pictured above), as do ramps (wild leeks), garlic, and asparagus. Summer brings chanterelles, purslane, miner's lettuce, and wild berries ripe forthe picking. Each region offers its own menu of native wild foods . Before you go on your own foraging excursions, pick up a good guide, such as Bradford Angier's Field Guide to Edible Wild Plants, to steer you toward the delicacies and away from the dangers. Some mushrooms, in particu lar, can be quite toxic, so be sure to check with a knowledgeable expert before making a mushroom omelet after a hike!

0 0 ®

oxalis (wood sorrel)

garlic shoots

wild lico ri ce

® ®

fidd lehead Lady ferns

miner's lettuce

@ stinging nettles

® ®

INGREDIENT S

ch ickweed hedgehog mushrooms

morels

@ gray chanterelles @ wild watercress @ purple as paragus

BASICS Virtually all good cooking rests on a core set of basicsthose fundamental prepared ingredients you routinely keep on hand in your pantry and refrigerator. There are, after all, only so many ways to cook meats, vegetables, and grains. It is through the stocks and sauces, the infused oils and emulsions, the gravies and glazes that you express your creativity and make a dish your own. That little extra flavor or a novel aroma can turn an ordinary meal into something special. As you make recipes in other parts of this book, you'll find that they often incorporate the building blocks collected in this chapter. The recipes steer you back here because we consider these basic elements to be intrinsic parts of the flavor and refinement of those dishes. It is, admittedly, more time-consum ing to make a recipe when some of the ingredients involve recipes of their own. When you don't have time, you can always use water instead of stock, or store-bought ketchup in place of homemade. But it is worth the effort to make your own once in a while. We have, wherever possible, suggested methods that are fast, such as pressure-coo king, or that can be left mostly unattended, such as cooking sous vide. You can also make large batches and freeze them so that they are handy when time is short. The best thing about these basics is their versatility. When you pressure-ren der chicken fat for Home Jus Gras (see page 93) or make a carotene butter for Caramelized Carrot Soup (see page 178), taste the result by itself and

imagine other applications. Also try combining techniques from throughout the book. If you make a cream infused with cinnamon and vanilla, as described in the Custards and Pies chapter (see page 358), you can pop it in a whipping siphon, store it in the fridge, and use it on your morning pancakes. Each recipe in this chapter may, along the way, also teach you something about cooking. Take pesto1 for example. A conventional pesto eventually separates into coarse solids floating on watery liquid, with a big slick of oil on top. But if you add a small amount of xanthan gum, the liquid stays creamy and cohesive. Just one pinch of powder produces a beautifully homogenize d pesto (see page 102). Or consider hollandaise, that unctuous mixture of warm egg yolks and butter. The sauce is so fragile because butter congeals and separates as soon as it cools. But we show you how to avoid that problem by putting the sauce in a whipping siphon; you no longer have to make hollandaise at the last minute while pulling together all the other parts of a meal. The stock recipes contain useful insights, too. A pressure cooker is the best tool for the job because it concentrates all the aromas released by the delicate ingredients. You don't smell them while you're cooking because they stay in the food instead of vaporizing into the air. These are just a few examples of the dozens of foundational recipes in this chapter that are not only approachable and versatile but very tasty, too.

STOCKS Sauces lie at the foundation of Western cuisine, and stocks form the foundation of most sauces. Unlike jus, the liquid that emerges from meats or vegetables as they cook, stocks include added water. When fully seasoned, stocks become broths and the basis for comp lete soups. The goal when making a stock is to wring as much of the flavor as possib le out of the meat, fish, or vegetab les. Even a

two-day simmer is rarely sufficient to pull all the flavorful compounds from the deep interior of food, so the first trick in making great stock is to chop the food into tiny pieces orthin slices. A pressure cooker is also an invaluable tool for accelerating the extraction of flavors while preventing their escape into the air. Stocks made sous vide similarly retain flavors whe re you want them : in the liquid, not the air.

PRESSURE-COOKED WHITE CHIC KEN STOCK YIELD: TIME ESTIMATE: STORAGE NOTES: LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY: SPEC IAL REQUIREMENTS: USED IN :

1.2 kg/ 5 cups 1% hours, including 15 minutes ofpreparation and H2 hours unattended keeps for 5 days when refrigerated or up to 6 months when frozen easy meat grinder or food processor, pressure cooker Aromatic Chicken Broth (see page 266)

This recipe makes a white chicken stock. It can also be made using other fowl by simply replacing the chicken meat and bones with those of duck or game fowl. Carcasses left over from roasted VOLUME

INGRED IENT

WEIGHT

Chicken wings, chopped

700 g/ 1.5 1b 6-8wings

Boneless, skin less chicken 700 g / 1.5 1b from 6 thighs th igh meat Water Sweet onion, thin ly sl iced Carrots, th inly sliced Leeks, thin ly sliced Garli c, th inly sliced Italian pars ley Black peppercorns

1 kg lOOg 50g 50g lO g 2g 1g

1 L/ 4\4 cups 1 cup Y., cup )Ia cup 1Y2 Tbsp 2-3 sprigs Y, tsp

chickens can be substituted for the chicken wings; freeze them until you have enough to make a batch of stock. To make a brown chicken stock, see the variation on the next page.

SCALING

PROCEDURE

70%

Cover with cold water in a pot, and bring just to a boil. Drain the ch icken immediately, discarding the water.

70%

<D 0 ®

100% 10%

0 ®

Combine with the blanched and ground chicken in a pressure cooker. Pressure-cook at a gauge pressu re ofl bar / 15 psi for1 )/2 hours. Start timing when full pressure is reached.

® 0 ®

Depressurize the coo ke r. Strain through a fine sieve. Use the stock in warm or cold dishes.

5% 5% 1% 0.2% 0.1 %

Grind coarse ly in a food processor or meat grind er.

Safety tipsfor pressure·cooking: see page 33

MODERNIST CUISINE AT HOME

Drain the chicken as soon as the wate r starts to boil; discard the water. We have found, through extensive blind taste tests, that white stocks have better flavor and clarity when made with blanched meat and bones.

Cover the chopped chi cken wings with co ld water in a pot, a nd bring it just to a boil to blanch the chicken and remove the bitter flavor from the bones. Roasting the bones has the same effect.

Comb in e the water, on ions, carrots, leeks, ga rli c, Italian parsley, and peppercorns with the blanched wing pieces and g round thigh meat in a pressure cooker.

Grind the chicken thigh meat in a meat grinder or food processor.

Pressure-cook at a gauge pressure of 1 bar/ 15 psi for1Y2 hours. Start timing as soon as full pressure has been reached.

Let the cooke r cool, or run tepid water over the rim, to depressurize it.

VAR IAT ION: Brown Chicken Stock At step 1, toss the chopped wings in 75 g / 80 ml/ y, cup of neutral frying oil, and roast them in a 190 â&#x20AC;˘c / 375 â&#x20AC;˘ f oven until they turn brown, about 20 minutes. Proceed with step 3, and then pan fry the g round chi cke n in oil over medium-high heat until the meat turns golden, aboutlO minutes. Continue with step 4.

Strain the stock through a fine sieve; discard the so lids.

Use the stock in warm or co ld dishes .

STOCKS

PRESSURE-COOKED BROWN BEEF STOCK YIELD: TIME ESTIMATE : STORAGE NOTES: LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY: SPECIAL REQUIREMENTS: USED IN :

1 kg/ 41,4 cups 30 hours overall, including 30 minutes ofpreparation and 3 hours unattended keeps for 5 days when refrigerated or up to 6 months when frozen easy pressure cooker, oxtail Red Wine Glaze (see page 97)j French Onion Soup (see variation on page 127)j Thai Sweet, Sour, and Savory Glaze (see page llS)j Korean Short Rib Lettuce Wraps (see variation on page221)

Our recipe for brown beef stock avoids much of the fuss and ritual

Simply substitute the appropriate ground meat and flavorful, meaty

typically associated with this classic kitchen staple. You can easily

bones. Shanks, knuckles, and other bony cuts of beef can be substi-

adapt this recipe to make brown pork, lamb, veal, and game stocks.

tuted for the oxtail.

INGREDIENT

WEIGHT

Oxtail, jointed Rend ered beef fat or neutral frying oil

500 g/ l.llb 6-8 pieces 30 mL / 2Tbsp 30g

VOLUME

SCALING

PROCEDURE

100% 6%

CD 0

Preheat the oven to 190 "C/ 375 "F. Toss together to coat, and roast until dark brown, 40-45 minutes.

40% 10%

Sear the meat in the base of a pressure cooker over medium-high heat until dark brown, about 8 minutes.

@) Comb in e with the browned beef and roasted oxtail in the pressure cooker. ® Pressure-cook at a gauge pressure of1 bar / 15 psi for 2Y2 hours. Start timing as soon as fu ll pressure has been reached. ® Let the cooker coo l, or run tepid water over the rim, to depressurize it. 0 Strain. ® Use the stock in warm or co ld dishes.

see pages 123 and xxii

Beef chuck, finely ground 200 g/ 0.4lb Rendered beef fat or SOg 50 mL /Y, cup neutral frying oil Water Full-bodied red wine Carrots, thinly sliced Yellow onion, thinly sliced Leeks, white parts only, thinly sliced Italian parsley Thyme Fres h bay leaf

750g 120g SOg 50 g 20g

750 mL / 31). cups 120 mL /Y2 cup 3,4 cup y, cup

:Y• cup

150% 24% 10% 10% 4%

lOg 1g 0.2g

4 sprigs 1-2 sprigs 11eaf

2% 0.2% 0.1 %

Safety tipsfor pressure-cooking: see page 33

VARIATIONS Brown Pork Stock Substitute 500 g of spare ribs or meaty pork bones for the oxtail, 200 g of ground pork for the beef, and white wine or lager beer for the red wine.

White Beef Stock Skip steps 1-3, and substitute white win e for the red wine .

MO DE RNI ST CUIS INE AT HOM E

5 SOUS VIDE FISH STOCK YIELD:

800 g/ 30 cups

TIME ESTIMATE:

10 hours overall, including 15 minutes ofpreparation and 1¥f hours unattended

STORAGE NOTES: LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY: SPEC IAL REQUIREMENTS: USED IN:

keeps for 3 days when refrigerated or up to 3 months when frozen easy so us vide setup, fish bones Arborio Rice with Sea Urchin and Cocoa (see variation on page 333), Bell Pepper Soup (see variation on page 181)

Fish oils oxidize very easily, so to get the most flavor out of fish bones, you need to cook them gently in a sealed environment. Slowcooking them sous vide produces excellent results. If fish bones are

can also increase the gelatin content and richness of the stock by adding skins from delicate white fish such as halibut, sole, trout, or sea bass. Darker, oilier fishes like mackerel, fresh sardines, tuna, or

unavailable, any scraps of flesh or chopped fish heads will do. You

salmon yield a stock that is too strongly flavored for most uses.

INGREDIENT

WEIGHT

VOLUME

SCALING

PROCEDURE

Dry vermouth Dry white wine

175 g 100 g

175 mL/ ¥o cup 100 mL / Yz cup

23%

G) Preheat a water bath to 80 "C/ 176 "F. 0 Combine the wines in a pot, bring to a boil, and simm er for 5 minutes.

13%

Q) Cool the mixture complete ly.

133%

Fish bones, cleaned, rinsed, a nd chopped Crushed ice (if vacuum sealing) or water Carrots, thinly sliced Onion, thinly sli ced Fennel, thinly sliced

1 kg

250g 200g 100g

2 cups 1 cup

Leeks, thinly sliced Garlic, thinly sliced

100g 15g

1Yz cups 2Tbsp

750g

6 cups of ice / 750 mLofwater 2y, cups

100% 33% 27% 13% 13% 2%

@ Combine with the cooled wines. Vacuum sea l if using ice; alternative ly, transfer to a large (4 L/ 1 gall zip-top bag, remove as much air from the bag as possible by using the water-disp lacement method (see page 58), and seal it. ® Cook so us vide for 1\4 hours.

® 0

Strain. Use warm or co ld.

Bottl ed cla m juice, ava ilable at most groce ry sto res, is a good substitute for fi sh stock if yo u do n't have tim e to make it yo urself.

VARIATION: Brown Fish Stock After step 3, pan fry the fish bones in 30 g / 30 mL / 2 Tbsp of neutral frying o il until they brown, 4-6 minutes. Coo l the bones comp lete ly, and then continu e with step 4.

Use only the freshest lean fish for stock.

STOCKS

PRESSURE-COOKED CRUSTACEAN STOCK YIELD : TIME ESTIMATE : STORAGE NOTES: LEVEL OF D IFF ICULTY: SPE C IAL REQUIREMENTS: USED IN:

1.1 kg/ 41/2 cups 11/2 hours overall, including 30 minutes ofpreparation and 1 hour unattended keeps for 3 days when refrigerated or up to 3 months when frozen moderate pressure cooker; shells of lobsters, crabs, or shrimp (or whole shrimp with heads on) Forbidden Rice with Squid Ink and Sous Vide Clams (see variation on page 330), Shrimp and Grits (see page 338), Thai Soup (see variation on page 267)

Anyt ime you find yourself with crustacean shells left over from a seafood fea st, save them! Collect them in the freezer until you have ING RED IENT

WE IG HT

Shell s of lobste rs, crabs, crayfi sh, shrimp, or prawns

650 g/ 1.4 1b from 2 1o bste rs of sh e lls o r o r 2 large crabs 650 g/ 1.4 1b of who le shri mp

Clari fi ed, unsa lted butte r 50 g or ne utral-tasting o il

VO LUME

enough to m ake sto ck. If you don't have shells, u se whole shrimp (with the h ead s on), which are relatively inexpensive and easy to find .

SCA LI NG

PROCEDURE

65%

CD 0 ®

Clea n by discarding any o rgans, including th e gill s and eyes. Cho p into pieces with a heavy kn ife or cl eaver. Small e r pieces infu se more fl avor into the stock. Pl ace th e pi eces in a large (4 L/ 1 ga l) zip -top bag. Partially sea l th e bag, cove r it with a towe l, and pound it with a mall et to crush th e she lls.

55 mL / 14 cup

@) Saute the she lls in th e base of a pressure coo ker ove r medium heat, stirring ofte n, until go lde n brown, 6- 8 minutes. ® Re move the shells fro m th e pot, and rese rve the m fo r use in ste p 9.

5% 2% 2%

Add to the pot, and pa nfry until th e o ni o ns softe n and start to brown, 3-4 minutes. Add mo re butte r o r oi l as neede d.

see page 11 9

Carrots, th inly sliced Onion, th inly sliced Lee ks, thi nly sliced Fe nne l, thin ly sli ced Button mus hrooms, thin ly sliced

50 g 20 g 20 g 20 g

:Y.. cup Y2cup 'Ia cup 14 cup :Ya cup

Tomato paste (optio nal)

50 g

3 Tbsp

Stir in, a nd co ntinue frying until a rich, coo ked tomato a rom a develops, a bo ut 3 minutes. Take ca re not to burn the mixture.

Wate r Dry ve rmouth

1 kg 150 g

1 L/ 414 cups

100% 15%

Deglaze th e pot.

150 mL /o/a cup

Ita lian parsley Thyme

Add, alo ng with the sauteed she lls, to th e vegeta ble mix ture, and stir.

Fresh basil leaves Fe nne l seeds Saffron

50 g

2. 5g 2g 0 .1g

1 sprig 1-2 sprigs 3-4 1eaves 5 see ds 2-3 threads

0.3% 0 .1% 0 .2% 0.01 %

@ Press ure-cook at a ga uge p ress ure of1 bar / 15 psi fo r1 ho ur. Sta rt timing

as soon as full pressure has bee n reached. @ Let th e cooker coo l, or run te pid wate r ove r the rim, to depressurize it.

@ Stra in the stock thro ugh a sieve lined with cheesecloth . @ Use in warm or co ld dishes. Safety tipsfor pressure-cooking: see page 33

MODERN IST CU ISINE AT HOME

TOASTED CORN STOCK YIELD: TIME ESTIMATE: STORAGE NOTES: LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY: SPECIAL REQUIREMENTS: USED IN :

750 g/ 3~ cups 1 hour overall, including 15 minutes ofpreparation and 45 minutes unattended keeps for 5 days when refrigerated or up to 6 months when frozen easy pressure cooker Pressure-Cooked Polenta (see page 336), Pressure-Cooked Fresh-Corn Tamales (see page 340)

INGREDIENT

WEIGHT

VOLUME

PROCEDURE

Fresh corn w ith husks

600 - 700 g

5 large ears

0 0

Shuck the corn, reserving the husks.

Scatter the husks on a bak ing sheet. Top w ith an inverted coo ling rack .

Preheat the oven to 175 °C/ 350 °F.

@ Bake until golde n brown, about 15 minutes. ® Cut the kernels from the cobs; reserve them for some other use. Cold water

1.2 kg

1.2 L/ 5 cups

Place th e corn cobs and toasted husks, but not the kernels, in a pressure cooker, add the water, and pressure-cook at a gauge pressure of 1 bar / 15 psi for 30 minutes. Start timing whe n full pressure is reached.

De pressurize the cooker.

Stra in through a sieve lined w ith cheesecloth, and use warm or cold .

Safety tipsfor pressure-cooking: see page 33

Preheat the oven to 175 oc / 350 °F.

Shuck the corn, reserving the hu sks .

3 90

Ba ke the husks, tossing them occasionally until they a ll turn go ld en brown, 15-25 minutes .

While the husks are baking, c ut the kerne ls from the cobs. Reserve the kernels for another use.

Place the corncobs, toaste d husks, and water in a pressure cooker, and pressurecook at a gauge pressure of1 bar / 15 psi for 30 minutes. Do not add the corn kerne ls. Start timing as soon as fu ll pressure has been reached .

Let the cooker coo l, or run tep id wate r ove r the rim, to depressurize it.

Scatter the corn husks on a baking sheet, and place an inverted coo ling rack on top of them to hold them in place.

MO DE RN IST CUISINE AT HOME

Strain the corn stock t hrough a sieve lin ed w ith cheesecloth. Use the stock in warm or co ld dishes.

This recipe uses the husks and cobs of the corn, but not the kerne ls. The kernels are good when cooked so us vide, and you can use them io make Corn Soup (see variation on page 181).

5 MUSHROOM JUS YIELD: TIME ESTIMATE: STORAGE NOTES: LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY: SPECIAL REQUIREME NTS: USED IN :

SOOg/2 cups 50 minutes overall, including 20 minutes ofpreparation and 30 minutes unattended keeps for 5 days when refrigerated or up to 6 months when frozen easy pressure cooker, white miso Cream ofMushroom Soup (see variation on page 150), Barley with Wild Mushrooms and Red Wine (see variation on page 331)

This recipe makes an unseasoned mushroom stock if you follow it just through step 4; continue to step 8 to make a savory yet meatless jus that you can use as you would meat jus. We also serve the jus as a broth and use it to dress risotto (see page 328), poached eggs (see INGREDIENT Crimini mushrooms, thinly sliced

WEIGHT 300g

80g Shallots, thinly sliced Clarified, unsalted butter 50g or neutral-tastin g oil

VOLUME 4cups

SCALING

PROCEDURE

75%

:Y,. cup

20%

55 mL / 3Y' Tbsp

13%

100% 20%

see page 119

Water

400g

Fino sherry

80g

400 mL/ 1'/3 cups 80 mL / y, cup

Dry white port or Chardonnay

80g

80 mL / Y' cup

White miso

28g

2Tbsp

3 mL/ :Y,. tsp

Soy sauce

Salt

to taste

Sherry vinegar

to taste

page 142), and steak (see page 200). For an earthier flavor that goes well with our barley risotto, add 15 g I 2 Tbsp of crumbled dry porcinis in step 1. For a more savory version, add 75 g I 3.4 cup of thinly sliced smoked bacon at step 1.

20%

Saute in the base of a pressure cooker over high heat until the mushrooms and sha llots turn go ld en, about 12 minutes.

Combine with the cooked mushroom mixture, and pressure-cook at a gauge pressure of1 bar / 15 psi for 25 minutes. Start timing as soon as full pressure has been reached. 速 Let the cooker cool, or run tepid water over the rim, to depressurize it. @ Stra in the stock through a fine sieve. Discard the solids . 速 Measure 500 g/ 500 mL / 2 cups of the mushroom stock.

速 0 速

Blend into the measured stock, and al low to infuse for4 minutes. Strain. Season the jus, and serve it warm.

Safety tipsfo r pressure-cooking: see page 33

STOCKS

BROWN CHICKEN JUS YIELD:

500g/2 cups

TIME ESTIMATE:

20 hours overall, including 30 minutes ofpreparation and 2 hours unattended

STORAGE NOTES :

keeps for 5 days when refrigerated or up to 6 months when frozen easy pressure cooker, chicken feet (optional) Home Jus Gras (see page 93), Shiitake Marmalade (see page 151)

LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY: SPECIAL REQUIREMENTS: USED IN:

This jus further fortifies an already intense stock with roasted chicken wings and feet, which add gelatin to produce a rich

mouthfeel. If chicken feet are unavailable, replace them with an equal weight of wings.

INGREDIENT

WEIGHT

VOLUME

SCALING

PROCEDURE

Chicken wings, chopped Chicken feet (optional)

450 g/ 11b 80 g / 0.21b as needed

3-4wings 3-4 feet

45%

0 0 0

Neutral frying oil

Pre heat the oven to 190 •c / 375 •f. Toss toget her. Roast the chicken wing pieces and feet until brown, about 40 minutes.

see page xxii

Ground chicken Neutral frying oi l

1 kg / 2.2 1b as needed

Brown chicken stock

1 kg

100%

@ Panfry over medium heat, stirring co nstantly, until brown, about 15 minutes.

1 L/ 4]4 cups

100%

see variation on page 85

Fino sherry or dry white port Shallots, thinly sli ced Thyme

200g

200 mL /7'• cup

20%

200g 1g

1]4 cups 1-2 small sprigs

20% 0.1 %

Salt Lemon juice

to taste to taste

® 0

® ®

Combine with the browned chicken parts and ground chicken in a pressure cooker, and press ure-cook at a gauge pressure of1 bar / 15 psi for1 hour. Start timing as soo n as full pressure has been reached . Let the cooker coo l, or run tepid water over the rim, to depressurize it. Strain th e jus into a pot. Disca rd the solids. Simmer th e jus over me dium-high heat until it is reduced by half and becomes slightly syrupy, 20-25 minutes. Season the jus, an d serve it warm.

Safety tipsfor pressure-cooking: see page 33

VARIATIONS Brown Beef Jus Substitute ground beef for the ground ch icken, oxtai l for the wings and feet, red wine for the fino sherry, and beef stock (see page 86) for the chicken stock. In step 5, increase the pressure-cooking time to 2 hours. Game Bird Jus Substitute bones and ground meat of game birds, such as pheasant, duck, or grouse, for the ch icken . You may want to replace the sherry or white port with a stronger-Aavored alcoho l, such as whiskey or red port.

MODERNIST CUISINE AT HOME

5 HOME JUS GRAS YIELD : TIM E ESTIMATE: STOR AG E NOTES: LEVEL OF DIFFI C ULTY: SPECIAL REQUIREMENTS : GOES W ELL WITH :

280 g I 11,4 cups 20 minutes serve the same day moderate Brown Chicken Jus (see the previous page), Pressure-Rendered Chicken Fat (see page 123), xanthan gum, liquid soy lecithin Roast Chicken (see page 238), Turkey Con.fit (see page 246)

Many classic sauces are enriched with butter or oil, u sually added at the last second in a step called "finishing" or "mounting." The reason for waiting until the last minute to add the fat is that the emulsion

temperature, and then just warm it up at dinnertime. This sauce is also special in its use of rendered chicken fat rather than oil, butter, or cream. Especially if you use pressure-

you form when you whisk it in is unstable when hot: the fat soon separates out. We solve that problem by adding lecithin, a heat-stable emulsifier found in egg yolks and soybeans. The resulting sauce is

rendered chicken fat, which has a strong roasted-chicken flavor, you'll taste the chicken much more than in traditional versions. For a delicious, smoky bacon taste instead, substitute bacon fat

so stable that you can even make it in the afternoon, hold it at room

for the chicken fat.

INGREDIENT Brown Chicken jus

WEIGHT 200 g

SCALING

PROCEDURE

200 mL/?'s cup

100%

CD 0

Bl e nd in a pot by using an immersion ble nder until fully incorporate d. Bring to a simm er.

95 mL/:Y. cup

40%

ÂŽ

Warm th e fat in a se parate small pot ove r low heat, and stir in th e lecithin. Ble nd th e warm fat slowly into th e jus mi xture until full y homoge nized . Use an immersion bl ender.

VOLUME

see th e previous page

Xantha ngum

O.Bg

Pressure-Rendered Ch icken Fat

BOg

0.4%

see page 123

Liquid soy lecithin (NOW brand)

1.6 g

Salt Lemon juice

to taste to taste

Place th e brown chi cke n jus in a small pot, and use an imm e rsion bl e nd e r to bl e nd in th e xanthan gum until it is full y in corpo rate d. Xantha n gum is ve ry pote nt, so we igh it ca refull y. If the li quid becomes very sticky, yo u add ed too mu ch. Bring the jus to a simm er.

rm the fat in a secon d small pot over 3 Wa low heat, and th e n stir in th e lecithin.

0. 8%

ÂŽ

Seaso n the jus ge ne ro usly, a nd serve it warm .

Slowly po ur the wa rm fa t into the jus mi xtu re while mixing with a n imm e rsion bl e nd e r. Continu e ble nd ing until th e mixture is full y homogenized .

VARIATION : Ultrastable Butter Sauce Blend 100 g of a win e redu cti on, stock, juice, or oth e r fl avorful liquid wi th 0.4 g of xa ntha n gum . Me lt 120 g / Y2cup of bu tte r in a se pa rate pot, and stir in 2.4 g of liquid soy lecithin. Bl e nd th e butte r mixtu re into the thicke ned liq uid . Seaso n gene rously with sa lt a nd lemon juice.

STOC KS

Season the jus ge ne rously with sa lt and lemon juice, and se rve it warm.

Liquid soy lecithin is not the same as soy lecithin powde r. Th e powde red lecith in is deoiled and often used by Mode rnist chefs to make de licate foams. Th e li quid soy lecithin ca ll ed fo r in th ese recipes is ava ilabl e fro m hea lth-food sto res. It is a powe rful em ul sifie r a nd is very useful fo r mak ing vin aigrettes and warm butter sauces. Always d isso lve it in a n oil o r fat before combining it with other ingred ie nts.

•• •

•• SAUCES A sauce is just a flavorful liquid that has been thickened enough to coat food. Fat, cornstarch, and flour are the thickeners most commonly used in traditional cooking. But each of these adds a lot of bulk to the sauce while muting the flavors of the primary ingredients. Modernistthickeners-such as the agar we use in our Onion Fluid Gel recipe on page 100 and the

xanthan gum in our Pressure-Cooked Drippings recipe on page 101-don't have these drawbacks. You use them in such small quantities that they have no perceptible impact on the flavor. Once you get the hang of using them, you can make a terrific sauce from almost any flavorful liquid that complements your dish.

MODERNIST CUISINE AT HOME

5 HOW TO Make Full-Flavored Pan Gravy - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - Chefs often refer to the delicious brown residue that sticks to yo ur pan when yo u sa ute or panfry food as "fond." It makes a wonderful basis for sauce, such as pan gravy. Th e trick is to deglaze th e pan by adding

Saute meat or sliced vegetab les until they turn brown.

a liquid to remove the fond at just the right time: it must be browned, but not bl ack and b itter. Add ing a littl e xanthan gum thi ckens th e gravy; there is no need to boil off water, and with it many flavorful aromas.

W hile the pan is still hot, add ju st eno ugh liquid to deglaze it. Use water to obta in a clear, pure flavor. Alternatively, add a

flavored liquid such as ch icken, meat, o r vegetab le stock-or even a fru it or vegetable jui ce-to produce a richer flavor. Don't add too much, or you wi ll dilute the fl avor of the gravy.

Heat th e liquid in the pan while yo u use a spatula or a cl ea n sc rubber brush to loosen the fond and disso lve the scrapin gs. Keep stirring to disso lve the fo nd as th e liquid co mes to a simmer. Simmer fo r 2-3 minutes. Strain the sa uce into a sauce pan.

Adjust the seaso ning of the sauce, which wi ll still be fa irly thin . The goal at this point is a potent, balanced flavor; you can thicken it later, if needed. You can reduce the liquid slightly if the flavor is weak, but the fl avor molecules evaporate along with the water, so don't overcook it. Once the flavor is correct, serve the gravy as is, or continue with the next steps to refine the texture.

To make the gravy smoother, process it in an immersion blender, countertop blender, or food processor.

To add body to the sauce, use an immers ion blender to thoroughly mix in a li ttle xa nthan gum . For a thin sauce, use 0.1-0.15 g of xanthan gum for every 100 g of li quid. Use 0 .2-0.3 g per100 g for a sauce closer in thickness to salad dressing or ketchup.

Finish th e sauce by w hisking in crea m, butter, oli ve o il, fl avored oil, o r rend ered fats (i ncluding drippings), if desired. Adjust the seaso ning once mo re by adding sa lt and acid, such as lemon juice or vinegar, as needed .

VAR IATION: Thicke ning with Wondra Sauces in classical French cook ing are thickened by adding roux, a cooked mixture of butter and flour. The Nouvell e cuisine movement in the 1970s largely rejected roux-based sauces, but Modernist chefs are rediscovering starch-thickened sa ucesthis time using modern starches, such as Wondra. After following steps 1- 5 above, dust Wondra over the fl avo rful li quid; use 4-5 g of Wondra for every 100 g of liquid. Whisk to distribute the starch eve nl y (do not b lend, as that can produce a gummy consistency). Bring the liquid to a simmer, and then remove it from the heat. Continue with step 7.

SAUCES

REDEYE GRAVY YIELD: TIME ESTIMATE: STORAGE NOTES:

LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY: SPECIAL REQUIREMENTS: USED IN:

INGREDIENT

WEIGHT

200g/ 1 cup 45 minutes overall keeps for 5 days when refrigerated or up to 6 months when froz en after step 6; continue with step 7 when reheating easy Brown Pork Stock (see variation on page 86), smoked salt Shrimp and Grits (see page 338) VOLUME

SCALING

PROCEDURE

Sweet onion, thinly sliced BOg

:Y.. cup

16%

Rendered pork fat or bacon fat

30 g

30 mL/ 2Tbsp

Saute in a sk illet over medium heat until th e onions become gold en and tend er, about15 minutes.

Star anise

0.2g

1 pod

0.04%

Add, redu ce heat to medium -low, and continu e cooking, stirring frequently, until th e onions turn dark amber and th e st ar anise is fragrant, 10- 12 minutes.

Brown Pork Stock

500 g

500 mL / 2 cups

100%

D eglaze the pan with th e stock, add th e syrup, and simmer until th e liquid thickens and redu ces by two-thirds, about 10 minutes.

Maple syrup (grade B preferred)

15 g

1 Tbsp

@) Remove th e pan from the heat.

Whole coffee beans (French roast)

25g

YJ cup

® ®

Unsalted butter, cubed

35g

Smoked salt

to taste

see page 123

se e variation on page 86

2Y2 Tbsp

Stir in, cove r th e pan, and allow to infu se for 5 minutes . Strain th e gravy into a small pot. Discard th e so lids.

Warm the gravy ove r low heat.

® ®

Whisk into th e wa rm gravy to th icken it. Do not boil. Season th e gravy, and serve it w arm .

When making a glaze such as this one, choose a syrah, a big zinfandel. or some other strong, fruity red wine that has a low tannin content. It doesn't need to be expensive, just flavorful.

RED WINE GLAZE YI ELD: TIME EST IMATE: STORAGE NOTES: LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY: SPECIAL REQU I REMENTS: USED IN :

INGREDIENT

WEIGHT

Lea n grou nd beef

1.3 kg / 2.8 lb

Neutral f rying oil

75g

100 g/ l/J cup 4 hours overall, including 2 hours unattended keeps for 5 days when refrigerated or up to 6 months when frozen moderate pressure cooker, beef knucklebones Braised Short Ribs (see page 229) VOLUME 80mL/ '/J cup

SCALING

PROCEDURE

100%

Fry the meat in a large ski ll et over high heat until it turns dark brown, about 8 minutes. Do not overcrowd the pan; work in batches.

Drain the browned meat in a co land er placed over a bowl. Measure 40 g / 40 mL / Y.. cup of the drained oil. Reserve the beef for use in step 6.

速

Combine w ith the reserved oil in the base of a pressure cooke r, and saute uncovered over medium heat, stirring often, until the vegetables become comp letely soft and brown, 30-35 m inu tes.

see page xxii

Sweet on ion, thin ly sli ced 500g

5'/1 cups

40%

Carrots, t hin ly sl iced

500g

7 cups

40%

Leeks, t hinly sli ced

250g

314 cups

20%

Ga rli c, thinly sli ced

25g

YJ cup

Tomato paste

50g

3 Tbsp

@) Stir into the vegetab le mixture, and cook, stirring often, until brown,

Redwin e

750g

750 mL / 1 bottle

60%

速

100%

about 10 minutes. Pour in, and cook over high heat, stirring often, until the wine reduces to a syrup, 10- 12 minutes.

Italian parsley, bruised

5 medium sprigs

0.4%

Thyme

3-4sprigs

0.2%

@ Add to the pressure cooker, and stir in the rese rved beef until com bined . (!) Pressure-cook at a gauge pressure of1 bar / 15 ps i for 2 hours. Start tim ing as soon as full pressure has been reached. 速 Let the cooker coo l, or run tepid water over the rim, to depressurize it.

Fresh bay leaves

0.6g

3 1eaves

0 .04%

速

Black p eppercorn s

0.5g

10- 12 peppercorns

0 .03%

Balsa mi c vinegar

to taste

Dark soy sauce

to taste

Beef knuck lebones

1.3 kg / 2.81b

Water

1 kg

1 L/ 4'/1 cups

80%

Strain the broth into a large pot through a fine sieve lin ed with cheesecloth. Discard the so lids.

@ Cook t he broth over high heat, skimming off the fat frequently, until reduced to a syrupy glaze, 45-60 minutes.

@ Seaso n the glaze, and serve it warm.

Safety tipsfor pressure-cooking: see page 33

SAUC ES

HOW TO Make Gels and Fluid Gels Gels are hardly new to cooking: cooked eggs are gels; so are cheeses, custards, and yogurts . But mod ern gelling agents have opened up a fantastic range of new culinary applications. You can use them to add body to a broth, mo ld a sauce into an attractive shape, or even so lidify a liquid such as on ion milk into a block, and then shear it back into a fluid (see page 100). The basic process is the same in each case. First, yo u dispense the gelling agent even ly throughout the liquid. Sometimes, you must heat the mixture to activate the gelling agent. The molecules of the agent link up to form a mesh that traps water and other molecules

like fish in a net. As the mesh tightens, the liquid sets into a semiso lid gel. You can puree certain gels after they have set to make a sauce that is thick on a spoon but th in s to a pleasant texture as yo u eat it. Fluid gels, as these sa uces are ca ll ed, often have a cream ier mouthfee l than you can get from a comparab le sa uce thickened with sta rch or xanthan gum. Agar is the most usefu l gelling agent for making fluid gels, but it does require heat to activate- not ideal if yo u are making a raw vegetab le sauce or a cold soup such as gazpacho. Agar is derived from seaweed and has been used for ce nturies in Asian cook ing.

Use an accurate gram scale (see page 7) to measure the right amount of agar. Use 0.25 g of aga r for eve ry 100 g of liquid w hen making a thin broth; 0.4- 0.5 g per100 g for a moderately thick sauce; or 0.9- 1.1 g per 100 g for a thickness like that of a puree.

To make a sem isol id ge l, pour the mixture into a mold or bowl, and all ow it to coo l until it sets. To make a flu id ge l, allow the gel to set, and then puree it in a blend er unti l it is smooth.

Place the liquid in a saucepan-any co ld, flavorful liquid works, including stock, pan juices, or dissolved fond - and sprinkle the agar in to the liquid whil e blending with an immersion blender. Alternative ly, mix the powder into the li quid in a countertop blender, and then transfer the mixture to a pan.

Quick-set fluid gel: Place the hot mixture in a bowl, set the bowl in an ice-water bath, and then use an immersion blender to blend the mixture as it cools to below 30 â&#x20AC;˘c / 86 â&#x20AC;˘f and sets into a fluid gel.

MODERNIST CUISINE AT HOME

Bring the mixture to a boi l, and stir until th e agar dissolves comp lete ly.

5 Solutions to Commo n Problems When Thickening and Gelling

The table below lists the te llta le signs that something has go ne wrong, as well as the most likely causes of these occasional problems.

Modern gelling agents and thickeners, such as gelatin, agar, xanthan gum, and Wondra, are incredibly versatile and practical. But it does take a bit of practice to build an intuition for how these ingredients work. Prob le m Clea r lumps that look like fish eyes appea red in the liquid.

Possib le Ca uses

So lu t io ns

The thi ckene r or ge lling agent was dispersed un evenly.

Dust the agent eve nly over the surface of the liquid while blending. Mix the age nt with a dry bulking age nt, such as sugar, or disperse it in a sma ll amou nt of oil before adding to the liquid. Keep the powder away from steam, and keep the liquid to be thickened or gell ed cool until the agent is fully dispersed. Check the recipe, and weigh the ingredie nt carefully on a n accurate sca le. If a greate r conce ntration of gelling age nt is needed, increase the qua ntity very gradually. Cook fresh juice, and then coo l it before adding th e gellin g age nt, or substitute cann ed or frozen fruit.

Steam ca used the agent to cl ump together before it was fully distributed, or it was blended into a hot liquid. The liquid did not ge l o r thicken, even though the granu les of powder swelled up.

Too little gell ing agent or sta rch was used.

The liquid contains an e nzyme that prevents gelati o n. Fresh kiwi, pineapple, and papaya juices, for exam pl e, contai n e nzymes that inhibit ge latin from setti ng.

The granu les of powder did not swe ll in size o r dissolve, and the liquid did not set.

The gel was frozen a nd later thawed. The freezing process destroys the protein matrix of gelatin.

Refrigerate a ge latin mixture for at least 4 hours to set it, but do not let it freeze.

The gelling agent did not come up to the right temperature.

Monitor the liquid after dispersing the agent to check that it remains at the recommended activatio n temperature for the amount of time indicated. Most gellin g agents activate whe n simmered for 2-3 minutes. Use an alcoho l-to le rant gelling agent, such as agar. Gelatin will ge l a liquid co nta ining up to 36% alcoho l, but the ge ls taste best when the co nce ntration is 10% or less. So me ge lling age nts cannot to lerate high levels of salt, acid, or ce rtain minerals.

The alcohol concentration was too high.

Another ingred ient interfered with the action of the gell ing agent. The liquid became gummy after thickening it with Wondra.

Wondra was blended rather than wh isked into the liquid, it was whisked for too long, or too much was added.

SAUCES

Always sift modified starches before addi ng them to a liq uid to avo id having to overwork them. Use a ha nd whisk rather than a blender.

ONION FLUID GEL YIELD: TIME ESTIMATE : STORAGE NOTES : LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY: SPECIAL REQUIREMENTS:

500g/2 cups 2 hours overall, including 30 minutes ofpreparation and H2 hours unattended keeps for 5 days when refrigerated either before or after pureeing in step 10 moderate sous vide setup, agar powder

This recipe is adapted from Heston Blumenthal's update of the

cleaner flavor a nd much greater stability. The sauce won't separate,

classic Escoffier sauce soubise, a Bechamel sauce flavored with onion

even when reheating it after several days in the refrigerator. Unlike gelatin, agar gels can tolerate moderate heat (up to 85 •c I 185 •F).

puree. Making the sauce as a fluid gel (see page 98) results in a INGREDIENT

WEIGHT

Sweet onion, thinly sliced 635g Shallots, thinly sliced 155 g lOOg Neutral-tasting oil Whole milk

SOOg

VOLUME

SCALING

PROCEDURE

6 cups

127% 31%

(i) Pre heat a water bath to 88 •c / 190 •F.

lo/s cups 110 mL / y, cup 520 mL/ 2Ys cups

@ Sweat the onio ns and shallots in oil in a large skillet over low heat until translucent and dry, but not brown, 20 -30 minu tes.

20% 100%

0 Co mbin e with the onions in a large (4 L/ 1 ga l) zip-top bag, remove as mu ch a ir as poss ible from the bag (see page 58), and seal it. @) Coo k so us vide for 1 hour. ® Sieve, pressing the onions firm ly to ex tract as mu ch milk as possibl e. ® Meas ure 500 g of the onion milk, a nd chill it.

Agar powd e r

3.5g

0 .7%

0 ® ®

Sprinkle over the co ld onion milk, and then whisk or use an immersion blender to blend the aga r co mplete ly. Boil until fully dissolved a nd hydrated, 1- 2 minutes. Pour into a tray o r bowl, and chill until co mpletely set, 15-20 minutes .

@ Puree until smooth an d fluid.

Salt

to taste

@ Season, and serve warm or co ld .

To make the onion milk on the stove top rather than so us vide, simmer the cooked o nions and shallots with the milk over low heat for 10 minutes. You can grind flaked agar in a coffee grinder to make agar powder.

VARIATION: Egg-Yolk Fluid Gel Va cuum sea l1 50 g / 10 Tbsp of egg yolks (about 10 yo lks), a nd th e n cook them so us vide in a 80 •c / 176 •F bath for 35 minutes. Bl end the coo ked yo lks with 150 g / 150 mL /o/s cup of fl avored crea m or stock, a nd season to taste. Add le mon juice or more liquid if needed to thin the sauce.

100

Quick-set method : After step 8, place the hot, hyd rated mi xture in a ta ll co ntain er, a nd set it in an ice-wate r bath. Use a n imm ersion bl e nd er to puree the gel as it coo ls. Stop blending when th e fluid ge l is co ld. Season a nd serve.

MO DE RN I ST CUI SIN E AT HOM E

5 PRESSURE-COOK ED DRIPPINGS YIELD : TIME ESTIM ATE : STO RAGE

OTES :

LEVEL OF DIFFI CU LTY: SP EC IAL REQ UIR EM ENTS:

200g/ 1 cup 1Yl hours overall, including 15 minutes ofpreparation and 1 hour unattended keeps refrigerated for 5 days or up to 6 months when froz en moderate pressure cooker, three 500 mL / 16 oz canning jars, xanthan gum

Why scrap e the drippings from the p an to m ake gravy?Just pressurecook ground chicken to extract the delicious juices without sco rching or scraping. If you prefer a brighter o r more complex fl avor to the gravy, add some good vinega r or citrus juice, ground spices, and

fresh herbs. To make a thinner jus, omit the xanthan gum. You can substitute a few cubes of cold butter for the xantha n gum. The emulsion can b e further stabilized by adding 1-2 g ofliquid soy lecithin (see page 93). PROCEDURE

INGREDIENT

WEIGHT

VOLUME

SCALING

Chi cke n wings, choppe d Bone less, skinless chicke n thighs, ground Soy sauce Honey

450 g / 11 b 450g/ 11 b

3- 4wings fro m 3 thighs

10 0% 100%

9g 9g

8 mL / 1\'2 tsp H4tsp

2% 2%

Xa nthan gum (Bob's Red Mill brand)

as needed

Sa lt

as needed

® ®

CD 0

Mi x tho ro ughly. Divid e eve nly into th ree 500 mL / 16 oz cann ing jars. Tighte n the lids fully, and the n un screw th em o ne-q ua rte r turn . ® Pl ace the fi ll ed ja rs o n a rack o r trivet in th e base of a pressure coo ke r, a nd add 2.5 cm/ 1 in of water. @) Pressure-cook at a gauge press ure of1 ba r/ 15 psi fo r1 hour. Sta rt timing as soo n as full pressure has bee n reached . ® Let th e coo ke r coo l, or run te pid wate r ove r th e rim, to de pressurize it. Le t th e ja r co ntents coo l slightly befo re ope ning. ® Stra in, reserving the juices and fat. Disca rd the so lids. Weigh the rese rved d ri ppings, a nd measure th e xa nthan gum equ al to 0.1 5% of th e weight. For exa mpl e, if th e drippings weigh 200 g, meas ure 0 .3 g of xa nth an gum . Bl e nd the xanthan gum into th e wa rm dri ppings un til thi cke ned . Season the gravy, an d serve it warm.

Safety tipsfar pressure-cooking: see page 33

VARIATION : Ca ramelized Onion Gravy To make a th icke r gravy witho ut adding mo re starch o r fa t, ble nd in 30 g/ 2 Tbsp of Press ure Ca ramelized Onio ns (see page 127) a nd 10 g/ 2\'2 tsp of Press ure-Cooked Garli c Co nfit (see page 126) be fo re ste p 9.

If you have a potato ricer. you can line it with cheesecloth to strain as much juice as possible from the cooked chicken at step 6. As you blend in the xanthan gum in step 8, adjust the texture to your taste by adding melted butter.

SAUCES

101

Chervil, Thyme, and Scallion Pesto

Sauce Verte

Green Onion and Sorrel Pesto

PISTACHIO PESTO YIELD: TIME ESTIMATE: STORAGE NOTES : LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY: SPECIAL REQUIREMENTS: USED IN :

350 g/ 1% cups 1J4 hours overall, including 15 minutes ofpreparation and 1 hour unattended keeps for 3 days when refrigerated or up to 3 months when frozen easy roasted pistachio oil, xanthan gum (optional) Quinoa with Pistachio Pesto and Asparagus (see variation on page 332), Genovese Pizza (see variation on page 306), Pesto Chicken Thighs (see variation on page 262), Barley Noodles (see variation on page 271), Pistachio Clam Chowder (see variation on page 292), Goat Cheese on Baguette with Tomato Con.fit and Basil (see variation on page 318)

Pesto, which simply means paste in Italian, is most often associated with the Genovese version that combines pine nuts, basil, Parmesan, and olive oil. But this reinterpretation that replaces pine nuts with pistachios has become one of our favorites. You can find recipes on the next page for the variations pictured above.

The function of the xanthan gum, which is optional, is to thicken natural juices that otherwise tend to separate from the greens. Toss the pesto with pasta, mix it into a warm potato salad, slather it over salmon before baking, or serve it as a dip for crusty grilled bread.

INGREDIENT

WEIGHT

VOLUME

SCALING

PROCEDURE

Basil leaves Chives Cilantro leaves Scallion, green parts only, cut into 5 cm / 2 in pieces Baby spinach

40g 35g 35g 35g

2Y, cups 1 cup 2 cups Y2 cup

80% 70% 70% 70%

<D 0

15g

1 cup

30%

Garlic cloves

2-3 cloves

16%

@) Boil until tender, about 2 minutes.

Parmigiano-Reggiano, finely grated Pistachios, toasted

50g

7!, cup

100%

Combin e with the blanched greens and garlic in a food processor, and puree.

50g

'Ia cup

100%

Extra-virgin olive oil Roasted pistachio oil (or other nut oil)

95g 20g

110 mL/ Y2 cup 20 mL / 1Y2Tbsp

190% 40%

Add to the puree gradually whi le processing to form a paste.

10 mL / 2 tsp

20%

Bring a pot of water to a boil. Arrange an ice-water bath alongside. Combine, and blanch in the boiling water until just cooked, about 1 minute. Use a skimmer or slotted spoon to li ft the greens out, and plunge them immediately into the ice bath. Drain the greens, wrap them in cheesecloth, and squeeze to remove excess moisture.

Lemon juice

lOg

Salt

to taste

Season the pes to.

Xanthan gum (Bob's Red Mill brand), optional

as needed

If not using xanthan gum, refrigerate the pesto for 1 hour. Otherwise, weigh the pes to, calculate 0.2% of the weight, and measure that amount ofxanthan gum . For example, if the pesto weighs 350 g, measure 0.7 g ofxanthan gum. Whisk the xanthan gum into the pesto until fully incorporated.

102

MOD ER NIST CUIS INE AT HOME

Roasted Red Pepper Pesta

Spinach Pesta

Cilantro Pesta

When blanching the greens in step 2. plunge them into ice

Wrap all the blanched greens together in cheesecloth

When the oils and lemon juice are fully incorporated, the

water immediately after taking them out of the pot. They

when squeezing out their juices.

pesto takes on the consistency of a paste. For a crunchier pesto. pulse it to a coarse texture.

should be barely cooked through.

VARIATIONS Foll ow the steps for Pistachio Pesto on the previous page, but substitute the greens indicated below for the greens in steps 1-3, the cheese and nuts indicated for the Parmigiano-Reggiano and pistachios in step 5, and the oils indicated for the olive and pistachio oils in step 6. Cilantro Pesto

Spinach Pes to Spinach

125 g

614 cups

Cilantro leaves

Chervil, Thyme, and Scallion Pes to Scallions

60g

1 cup

Chervil leaves

35g

3 cups

Thyme (do not blanch)

2Tbsp

SOg

o/a cup

120g

9 cups

Aged goat cheese, crumbled

Italian parsley leaves

15g

JY, cups

Spinach

20g

1 cup

Hazelnuts

50g

:Y. cup

Aged Gouda cheese, grated

50g

1 cup

Parm esa n cheese, grated

50g

114 cups

Hazelnut oil

20g

Toasted pumpkin seeds

50g

Y1 cup

20ml / JY, Tbsp

Roasted almonds

50g

14 cup

Extra-virgin olive oil

90g

Extra-virgin olive oil

90g

Almond oil

20g

25 ml/ 1Y, Tbsp

100 ml/ Y, cup

100 ml / Y, cup

Lime juice

to taste

Extra-virgin olive oil

90g

100 ml / Y, cup

Sauce Verte

Green Onion and Sorrel Pesto

Roasted Red Pepper Pesto

Scallions, green parts only

60g

1 cup

Sorrel (do not blanch)

50g

2Y' cu ps

Italian parsley leaves

SOg

4cups

Mint leaves

50g

3 cups

Chives

20g

o/a cup

Basil leaves

20g

2cups

Chervil leaves

15 g

lYa cups

Dijon mustard

lOg

1 Tbsp

Roasted piquillo peppers

120g

y, cup

Mint leaves

lOg

:Y.. cup

Gorgonzola cheese

50g

y, cup

Roasted cashew nuts

SOg

:Y. cup

Pi ave Vecchio cheese, grated

SOg

1 cup

Walnuts, finely chopped

SOg

y, cup

Extra-virgin olive oil

90g

100 ml / Y, cup

Macadamia nuts

SOg

:Y. cup

White wine vinegar

lOg

2 tsp

Extra-virgin olive oil

90g

100 ml / y, cup

Extra-virgin olive oil

90g

100 ml/ Y, cup

SAUCES

10 3

MUG HAL CURRY SAUCE YIELD : TIME ESTIMATE: STORAGE NOTES: LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY: SPECIAL REQUIREMENTS: USED IN:

700 gI 20 cups 13 hours overall, including 1 hour ofpreparation and 12 hours unattended keeps for 5 days when refrigerated or up to 6 months when frozen moderate white poppy seeds, fresh turmeric, ghee (see page 119) Lamb Curry (see page 234) Although this recipe makes more nut paste than you need, the

The Mughal Empire, which dominated northern India in the 16th and 17th centuries, built lasting monuments such as the

paste keeps well when frozen . Go ahead and make extra sauce;

Taj Mahal, but it also left a monumental culinary legacy. Mughal

it is excellent with lamb, chicken, or beef, and tastes even better

cuisine inspired this recipe, which is a versatile template that

the following day. If fresh turmeric is unavailable, substitute

you can easily extend (see two variations below).

0.5 g I 1/2 tsp of powdered turmeric.

INGREDIENT

WEIGHT

Whole blanched almonds 50g Raw cashews 50g White poppy seeds 5g

VOLUME

SCALING

PROCEDURE

Y, cup

Q) Cover with water, and soak for 12 hours in the refrigerator.

Yz cup ltsp

25% 25% 2.5%

0 Strain through a fine sieve, an d transfer the nuts and seeds to a blender.

Water

240g

240 mL / 1 cup

120%

Shallots, thinly sliced Ghee (clarified, unsalted butter)

200g 40g

2 cups 3 Tbsp

100% 20%

@) Saute in a large pot over medium-low heat until shallots become tender and golden, about 10 minutes.

Salt

ltsp

Tomato, peeled, seeded, and diced

120 g

:Y., cup

60%

Add to the shallots, and cook until sl ightly thickened, abo ut 5 minutes.

7.5g

1YzTbsp

3.8%

Garlic, grated Ginger, grated Green Thai chili, minced Fresh turmeric, peeled and grated Fresh bay leaf

6g 6g 5g 4g

Y, Tbsp Y, Tbsp Yz Tbsp Yz Tbsp

3% 3% 2.5% 2%

Stir into the sha llot-tomato mixture, and saute over low heat for abo ut 5 minutes. Remove the bay leaf, and discard it.

Water Blended nut-see d paste, from above Raisins, minced

240g 240g

240 mL / 1 cup 1 cup

120% 120%

® ®

25g

\4 cup

13%

Plain yogurt Nutmeg, grated

15g 0.5g

1 Tbsp Yz tsp

8% 0.3%

Fresh lime juice Salt

to taste to taste

Add to the blender, puree to form a smooth paste, and measure 240 g/ 1 cup of paste for use in step 8.

see page 119

see page 128

MCCurry Powder see page 135

11eaf Stir into the mixture. Blend to a coarse puree. @ Cover, and simmer over low heat for about25 minutes, stirring occasionally. @ Remove the pot from the heat, and stir the yogurt and nutmeg into the sauce.

@ Season the sauce, and serve it warm.

To soften the nuts and seeds more quick ly than an overnight soak, pressurecook them with enough water to cover at a gauge pressure of1 bar / 15 ps i for 45 minutes. VAR IATI ONS Kerala Curry Sauce Skip steps 1-3. In step 4, add 3 g / 1 tsp of black mustard seeds and 2 g of curry leaves (about 9leaves) while saute ing the shallots. In step 9, substitute 240 g / 1 cup of coconut milk for the nut-seed paste. Muslim Curry Sauce Skip steps 1-3. In step 9, substitute 240 g/ 260 mL / lYs cups of heavy cream for the nut-seed puree. In step 11, add a pinch of saffron threads. Garnish the finished sauce with rose petals and roasted pistachios.

5 1

Cove r t he alm o nds, cashews, a nd pop py seeds w ith water, and soa k th e m in the refrigerato rfo r 12 ho urs. If w hite po ppy seeds a re unava il a bl e, o mit th e m.

Strain th e soa ked nuts and seeds through a fin e sieve. Disca rd th e soa king wate r, and pl ace th e nuts and seeds in a bl en de r.

Add fres h water to th e bl e nd e r, and pu ree th e mi xture until a smooth paste fo rms. If th e paste see ms g ra iny, pass it thro ug h a fin e sieve. Meas ure 240 g / 1 cup of the paste, a nd set it as id e fo r use in step 8.

Sau te the shall ots with th e ghee and sa lt in a large pot over medium -low heat until the shallots turn go ld e n a nd te nd e r, a bo ut 10 minutes .

Stir the curry powder, ga rli c, g inger, chil i, turmeri c, and bay leaf in to the shall ot-tomato mi xture, redu ce the heat to low, and cook fo r a bo ut 5 minu tes more.

Ad d the di ced to mato to the shall ots, a nd co ntinu e coo king until the mixture thi cke ns slight ly, about 5 minu tes.

7 8

Re move a nd di sca rd th e bay leaf. Stir additi o nal wate r, th e reserved nut-seed paste, and th e minced raisins into th e mixture.

Ble nd th e mixture to a coarse puree . An imm ersio n ble nd er wo rks we ll .

Cove r th e pot, a nd si mm e r th e sauce over very low heat fo r a bo ut 25 minutes, stir-

ring frequ ently. Th e sa uce will th icke n.

SAUC ES

Re move th e pot from th e heat, a nd sti r the yogurt and g rated nutm eg into the sauce.

Season the sauce with ple nty of fresh lim e juice and salt, a nd se rve it wa rm .

105

SOUS VIDE HOLLANDAISE YIELD: TIME ESTIMATE : STORAGE NOTES : LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY: SPECIAL REQUIREMENTS:

265 g/ 5 cups offoam 45 minutes overall, including 15 minutes ofpreparation and 30 minutes unattended serve within 2 hours moderate sous vide setup, 1 L whipping siphon, two cartridges of nitrous oxide, malic acid or citric acid (optional)

Hollandaise is traditionally a tricky, labor-intensive sauce; it is all too

alone yields a reliably delicious sauce that can be served directly

easy to overheat the eggs and curdle the sauce. That risk is removed when you cook it so us vide instead of on the stove.] u st this change

after step 9 of the recipe below. But for an extra-light hollandaise, continue with the last two steps .

INGREDIENT

WEIGHT

VOLUME

SCALING

PROCEDURE

Dry white wine Shallots, minced White wine vin egar

100 g 50 g 35 g

100 mL / 'Ya cup ¥a cup 40 mL / 3 Tbsp

133% 67% 47%

Q) Pre heat a water bath to 65 ' C/ 149 ' F.

0 ®

0 75g 20g

5-6 yolks 20 mL / 4 tsp

100% 27%

® ®

Unsalted butter, me lted

225 g

240 mL / 1 cup

300%

Salt Ma lic acid or citric acid (or fresh lemon juice to taste)

4g 1g

1 tsp

5% 1%

0 ® ®

Egg yo lks Stock or wate r see pages 84- 91

VARIATIONS Crustacean Hollandaise Re place the un sa lted butter in step 8 with Pressure-Coo ked Crustacean Butte r (see page 122). and serve the sauce with poached lobster (see page 288).

Combine in a pot. Simmer until th e liquid becomes syrupy, about 8 minutes. Strain, disca rding the so lids, and measure 20 g/ 20 mL/ 4 tsp of the win e reduction for use in th e next ste p. Bl e nd together with the win e redu ction. Pl ace in a zip -top bag, remove as much air as possibl e from the bag by using the water-d isp laceme nt method (see page 58), and sea l it. Cook sous vid e fo r 30 minutes. Ble nd into the egg yo lk mixture until fully e mulsified.

Season the sa uce, and se rve it warm, or co ntinu e through ste p 11 to ae rate it. @ Pour the sauce into a 1 Lsipho n. Charge the siphon with two cartridges of nitrous ox id e, and shake it vigoro usly. @ Dispe nse to se rve imm ediately, o r kee p wa rm in the siph on in a 55 ' C/ 131 ' Fwater bath for up to 1Yz hours.

Garlic Hollandaise Ble nd 40 g of ga rli c into the yo lks afte r step 7, and at step 8 rep lace half of the me lted butter with oi l from Press ure-Cooked Garlic Confit (see page 126).

If you choose to use stock rather than water, consider the ingredient for which the hollandaise is being prepared: use fish stock for a sauce that you wi ll serve with fish, poultry stock for poultry, and so on. You can sim ilarly tailor the sauce by using other kinds of vinegars or wines in place of the white wine vinegar. Red wine and sherry vinegar pair well with gri ll ed hanger steak, for examp le.

Pre heat a water bath to 65 ' C/ 149 ' F.

Comb in e the white wine, shallots, and vin ega r in a pot.

To produce a lighter foam, set the water bath to 63 ' C/ 145 ' Fin step 1; a 67 ' C/ 153 ' F bath wi ll yield a denser foam.

10 6

Spicy Hollandaise In step 8, rep lace 20 g/20 mL / lYz Tbsp of the me lted butter with toasted-sesame oil, and wh isk in 50 g / Y.. cup of Ko rea n Wing Sauce (see page 260). Stra in th e sauce, a nd serve it with grille d vegetab les.

MO DE RNI ST CUIS INE AT HOM E

Simmer until the liquid is almost comp lete ly red uced and syrup y, abou t 8 minutes.

Place the mixture in a zip-to p bag. Use the water-disp lacement method (see page 58) to remove as much air

Strain the wi ne reduction, and measure 20 g/ 20 ml / 4 tsp of the liquid for use in the next step. Discard the so lids.

Cook the mixture so us vide for 30 minutes.

sion blender.

as poss ible from the bag, and seal it.

Seaso n the sauce w ith sa lt and malic acid, citric acid, or lemon juice to taste . The sauce, which should now be similar to a warm mayo nn aise, ca n be served as is.

Pour the mixture into a 1 L sipho n. Charge the sip hon with two cartridges of nitro us oxide, and shake it vigorous ly.

Blend th e egg yolks and stock into the w ine redu ction thoroughly by usi ng an immer-

Blend th e melted butter gradua lly into the egg yo lk mixtu re until fu lly em ulsifi ed. Use an imm ersion blend er in a bowl, or a co untertop blender for larger quantities.

Serve th e sauce immediately by dispensing it from the si phon, or keep it warm in the siphon in a 55 ' C/ 131 ' F water bath for up to 1JI, hours.

SAU CES

107

MODERNIST MAYONNAISE YIELD: TIME EST IMATE : STORAGE NOTES : LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY: SPECIAL REQUIREMENTS: USED IN :

450 g/2~ cups 45 minutes overall, including 10 minutes ofpreparation and 35 minutes unattended keeps for 3 days when refrigerated easy sous vide setup Pork Belly B.L.T. (see page 232), Sweet Onion Slaw (see page 165), Lobster Roll (see page 288)

Mayonnaise is a classic emulsion of oil, mustard, and a touch of acid held together by egg yolk acting as an emulsifier. It has literally hundreds of uses in the kitchen. This recipe lightly cooks the yolks, which has two benefits. First, it eliminates any food safety concerns about using raw eggs; these yolks are pasteurized. Second, the heat amplifies the emulsifying power of the yolks, so the mayonnaise is much more stable. If you're pressed for time, however, you can use raw egg yolks and skip steps 1-3.

This basic recipe supports a huge range of variations; we've included just a few below. As you add more oil, the mayonnaise will get stiffer; use less oil for a thinner sauce. Try substituting extra-virgin olive oil or other seed or nut oils for some or all of the neutral-tasting oil. You can swap out the lemon juice in favor of other acidic fruit juices (such as lime, blood orange, grapefruit, or passion fruit). Red wine vinegar works in place of white. Even the water can be replaced by stock or various kinds of juice.

INGREDIENT

WEIGHT

VOLUME

SCALING

PROCEDURE

Egg yolks, blended

75 g

5-6 yo lks

100%

Q) Preheat a water bath to 67 •c / 153 •F.

Water

45g

45 mL / 3Tbsp

60%

Place the blended yo lks in a zip-top bag, remove as much air as possible from the bag by using the water-displacement method {see page 58), and seal it.

Cook sous vide for 35 minutes.

@) Mix, and then whisk together with the cooked egg yolks until smooth.

Dijon mustard

25g

l Y2 Tbsp

33%

Neutral-tasting oil or any flavorful oil

300g

320 mL / l YJ cups

400%

Blend gradua lly into the egg yo lk mixture until fully emulsified.

® 0

Add as needed to season the sauce.

Lemon juice

18g

20 mL / lY2Tbsp

24%

White wine vinegar

lOg

10 mL / 2Y, tsp

13%

Salt

to taste

Usecold.

VARIATIONS

Aioli

Bacon Mayonnaise

Rouill e

Tartar Sauce

In step 5, replace 150 g/ 160 mL / 2/J cup of the oil with the oil from Pressure-Cooked Garlic Confit {see page 126), and blend in 50 g / 3 Tbsp of garli c from that recipe.

In step 5, replace the oil with rendered bacon fat {see page 123), and blend in 0.7 g of xanthan gum . In step 6, fold in 65 g / Y2 cup of crumb led, crispy bacon as you season the sauce. This mayonnaise so lidi fies when chilled . Temper it at room temperature for 5-10 minutes before serving.

Make the Aioli variation, but at step 6 stir in 59 g/Y2 cup of pi menton dulce {smoked, sweet paprika) and 0.5 g / Y., tsp of cayenne pepper {or more to taste).

In step 6, stir in 35 g/ 3Y2 Tbsp of minced gherkins and 15 g / 4 Tbsp of chopped Italian parsley.

108

MO DE RN I ST CUISI NE AT HOM E

5 MC SPECIAL SAUCE YIELD: TIME ESTIMATE: STORAGE NOTES: LEVEL OF D IFFICULTY: SPECIAL REQUIREMENTS : . USED IN :

615 g/ 2'12 cups 30 minutes overall keeps for 3 days when refrigerated easy spicy cucumber pickles Modernist Cheeseburger (see page 212) One day when we were working on a pork loin sauce for Modern-

In 1968, McDonald's rolled out a new double cheeseburger with three buns, garnished with a "special sauce." They called it the Big Mac, and it was an instant hit worldwide, attaining such ubiquity

ist Cuisine, we tasted the latest batch in the research kitchen, and our eyes lit up with recognition: it was McDonald 's special sauce! Not exactly, of course. Ours is fancier and less sweet, although the exact flavor depends on your choice of mustard and pickles.

that The Economist magazine to this day uses the price of a Big Mac as an indicator of what currencies are worth around the globe. INGREDIENT

WEIGHT

VOLUME

SCALING

PROCEDURE

Leeks, minced Shallots, minced Neutral-tasting oil

220 g 95g 70g

4cups 'l4 cup 75 mL/ Y> cup

100% 43% 32%

Q) Sweat in a pan ove r medium-low heat, stirring often, until very tend e r,

Heavy cream Dry vermouth (N oilly Prat brand)

220 g 200g

240 mL/ 1 cup 200 mL / ~a cup

100% 91 %

Spicy cucumber pickles, minced (Baumgardner brand) Dijon mustard

40g

4 Tbsp

18%

ÂŽ Fold in .

20g

4 tsp

Pickle juice, from spicy pickles Salt

to taste

about 15 minutes. Add, in crease heat to med ium-high, and simmer, stirring often, until thickened, 8-10 minutes.

@ Season th e sauce ge ne rously, and serve it coo l.

to taste

Call it the "Big MC," if you like: a short-rib patty cooked sous vide and then deep-fried (see page 208), topped with MC special sauce, and served between two slices of white toast.

SAUCES

109

PRESSURE-CARAMELIZED KETCHUP YIELD:

330g/ 1 cup

TIME ESTIMATE:

35 minutes overall, including 10 minutes ofpreparation and 25 minutes unattended

STORAGE NOTES:

keeps for 5 days when refrigerated easy pressure cooker, malic acid (optional), agave syrup (optional) Modernist Cheeseburger (see page 212)

LEVEL OF DIFF ICULTY: SPEC IAL REQUIREMENTS: USED IN:

We exploit a little basic chemistry in this recipe to make a ketchup having a deep color and subtle flavor profile that one can get only by caramelizing the sugars in the tomato sauce. That isn't easy to do in

the natural acidity of the tomatoes and even makes the sauce slightly alkaline, which allows caramelization to occur at temperatures that a pressure cooker can generate. As with our caramelized vegetable

an open pan because the sauce never gets much hotter than the boiling point of water. But the addition of a little baking soda neutralizes

soups and purees (see pages 180-181), the resulting ketchup delivers a wonderful combination of fresh and cooked flavors.

ING RED IENT

WE IG HT

VOLUME

SCA LI NG

PROCEDURE

Tomato paste Water Baking soda

lOO g lOOg 3g

¥a cup 100 mL /¥a cup :Y.. tsp

100% 100% 3%

CD 0

Red wine vinegar Agave syrup or sugar Maple syrup (grade B preferred)

60g 40g 30g

70 mL/ 5Tbsp 30 mL/2Tbsp 25 mL / 1Y2 Tbsp

60% 40% 30%

@) Stir into the tomato sa uce.

Mustard powder Sweet paprika Onion powder Ma li c acid (optiona l)

lOg 9g 6g 3g

3 tsp 3 tsp 1Y, tsp

10% 9% 6% 3%

® Mix together until even ly co mbined, sieving if necessa ry, and then whisk

Salt Red wine vinegar

to taste to taste

Whisk together in the base of a pressure cooker. Press ure-coo k at a gauge press ure of1 bar / 15 psi for 25 minutes . Start timing when full pressure is reached . Depressurize the cooker, and stir the sauce.

into the sauce.

Season the ketchup, and serve it cool.

Safety tipsfor pressure-cooking: see page 33

VAR IAT ION : Barbec ue Ketc h up At step 4, substitute 40 g/Y.. cup of brown sugar for the agave syrup, and add 20 g/ 25 mL / 5 tsp of bourbon, 1 g/Ys tsp of liquid smoke (Lazy Kettle bra nd ), and 0.1 g/ pinch of caye nn e pe ppe r.

Whisk together the tomato paste, water, and baking soda in the base of a pressure cooke r. The mixture will become sl ightly foamy as the baking soda reacts with th e aci d in the tomato paste. Press ure-coo k the tomato paste mi xture at a gauge pressure of1 ba r / 15 ps i for 25 minutes. Start timing as soo n as full pressure has been reached.

110

Let the cooke r coo l, or run tepid water 3 over the rim, to depressurize it. Stir the

Mix the spices and, optionally, the malic 5 acid unti l they are even ly co mbined -s ieve

tomato paste, which sho uld be a dark, brick-red color.

the mixture, if necessary-and then whisk them into the sa uce. To thicken the ketchup slightly and preve nt it from "weeping," add 0.5 g of xanthan gum to th e spice mixture.

Stir the vinegar and syrups into the tomato sauce.

MODERNIST CUISINE AT HOME

Season the ketchup ge ne rously with sa lt and add itional vin egar to taste. Rest the ketchup for a few hours before se rvi ng to allow the raw taste of the sp ices to mellow.

5 SALSA VERDE YIELD: TIME ESTIMATE: STORAGE NOTES: LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY: SPECIAL REQUIREMENTS : GOES WELL WITH:

490g/2 cups 30 minutes overall keeps for 3 days when refrigerated easy open flame (gas stove burner, barbecue grill, or blowtorch) Pressure-Cooked Fresh-Corn Tamales (see page 340) PROCEDURE

INGREDIENT

WEIGHT

VOLUME

SCALING

Tomatillos, with husks

415 g

5-6 medium

100%

(j) Char eac h tomatillo over an open flame, a gas stove burner, or by using a blowtorch until the skin blisters and blackens. 0 Rub off the charred husks and skin with a clean, dry dish towel. 0 Stem and quarte r the tomati llos.

Yellow onion, diced Neutra l-tasting oil

215g

2Y, cups

52%

35g

40 mL/ 2 Y, Tbsp

jalapeno, chopped

25g

1 large pepper

Salt

to taste

® ®

Combi ne with the tomatillos in a pot, and cook over medium heat until tender and sauce-like, about 15 minutes. Lightly blend by using an immersion blender to break up any large pieces. Serve warm or cold.

Safety tipsfor blow/arching: see page 15

PRESSURE-CARAMELIZED PEANUT SAUCE YIELD: TIME EST IMATE: STORAGE

OTES:

LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY: SPECIAL REQUIREMENTS: USED IN:

760 g/ 3~ cups 1 hour overall, including 20 minutes ofpreparation and 40 minutes unattended keeps for 5 days when refrigerated or up to 6 months when frozen moderate pressure cooker, galangal, palm sugar Chicken Breast Satay (see variation on page 263), Rice Noodles (see variation on page 271) to ginger but has a more robust, peppery tastej it is sold at Asian

For excellent-tasting peanut sauce, start with the freshest, most aromatic roasted peanuts you can find. Fresh galangal is similar

markets (fresh ginger may be substituted).

INGREDIENT

WEIGHT

VOLUME

SCALING

Unsweetened coconut cream (canned)

400g

410 mL / 1 ~ cups

333%

Skinless, roasted, unsalted peanuts

120g

Ys cup

100% 58% 42%

Shallots, sliced

70g

~ cup

Water

SOg

Galangal, peeled and sliced into coins

35g

50 mL / \4 cup 3- 4 co ins

Peanut oil

20g

20 mL/ lY2 Tbsp

17%

Baking soda

3.2g

Y, tsp

2.7%

Asian fish sauce Palm sugar, grated

40g

35 mL/ 2 Tbsp

20g

3Tbsp

33% 17%

Sa lt

1Y2 tsp

PROCEDURE

(j) Combine in a pressure cooker. 0 Pressure-cook at a gauge pressure of1 bar / 15 psi for 40 minutes . Start timing as soon as full pressure has been reached. 0 Depressurize the cooker quickly by running tepid water over the rim . 0 Puree the sauce in a blender until smooth .

29%

Season the sauce, and serve it warm .

Safety tipsf or pressure-cooking: see page 33

SAU CES

111

Pizza Sauce Skip steps 1 a nd 2 be low. Fry 50 g / Y.. cup of chopp ed ga rlic in 100 g / 110 mL /V2 cup of olive oil until th e ga rli c turns go lden brown, abo ut 5 minu tes . Co ntinu e with step 3. For pizza reci pes, see chapte r18, page 295.

MARINARA YIELD: TIME ESTIMATE: STORAGE NOTES: LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY: SPECIAL REQUIREMENTS: USED IN:

1 kg/ 4cups 1 hour overall, including 15 minutes ofpreparation and 45 minutes unattended keeps for 5 days when refrigerated or up to 6 months when frozen easy pressure cooker Microwaved Eggplant Parmesan (see page 344), Whole Wheat Noodles (see variation on page271)

We consider marinara a starting point that h as endless potential

Marinara is a simple, flavorful tomato sauce. By combining the ingredients in a pressure cooker, there is even less fuss than usual.

for customization. For classic pasta sauce, stir in fresh b asil and chili

We like the added sweetness of onions and carrots, but our pizza

flake s, or olives and anchovy fillets.

sauce variation, above, might appease the tomato purists. INGREDIENT

WEIGHT

VOLUME

SCA LING

PROCEDURE

Yellow onion, large dice Carrots, medium dice Garlic

260g 160 g 18g

2 cups 1 cup 5-6 cloves

33% 20% 2.3%

Mince in a food processor.

Olive oil

20g

20 mL / 1V2 Tbsp

2.5%

Add to the base of a pressure cooker, and saute th e minced vegetab les over medium heat until the o nions turn translucent, abo ut 4 minutes.

Ca nned, crushed tomatoes (San Marza no or other high-qu a lity va ri ety)

794 g

11arge ca n

100%

Stir into the sa uteed vegetables.

Extra-virgin olive oil Salt

to taste to taste

@) Pressure-cook at a gauge pressure ofl bar / 15 psi for45 minutes . Start

® ® 0

tim ing whe n full pressure is reached. Depressurize the cooker. Season the sauce to taste. Serve wa rm .

Safety tips for pressure-cooking: see page 33

VARIATIONS

Tomato Sofrito In ste p 1, omit the carrots, re duce th e qu antity of diced onion to 11 5 g/ 1 cup, a nd add 63 g/ o/s cup of chopped piquillo peppers. In step 3, add 0.2 g/ Va tsp of saffron threads with the cru shed tomatoes .

112

Bolognese Brown 450 g/ 11b of ground pork in the base of a pressure cooker, a nd then proceed with step 1. In step 2, add 8 g/ 1 Tbsp of po rcin i powder. In step 6, stir in 60 g / 65 mL / 4Y, Tbsp of heavy crea m before seaso ning the sauce.

MODERNIST CUISINE AT HOME

Pineapple Marin a ra In step 1, add 400 g / 2:Ys cups of diced, fresh pineapple and 40 g /V2 cup of chopp ed prosciutto. In step 3, red uce the quantity of cru she d tomatoes to 400 g/Y, large ca n.

Add the olive oi l to the base of a pressure cooker, and saute the minced vegetables over medium heat until the onions become translucent, about 4 minutes.

Mince the onions, carrots, and garl ic in a food processor.

Stir the tomatoes into the sauteed vegetables.

SAUCES

Pressure-cook the vegetab les at a ga uge pressure of1 bar/ 15 psi for45 minutes. Start tim ing as soon as full pressure has been reached.

Let the cooker cool, or run tepid water over the rim, to depressurize it.

Season the sauce to taste with o live oi l and plenty of sa lt.

Serve the sauce warm.

11 3

STRAWBERRY MARINARA YIELD: TIME EST IMATE: STORAGE NOTES: LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY: SPECIAL REQUIREMENTS: GOES WELL WITH:

400 g/ 10 cups 1J4 hours overall keeps for 3 days when refrigerated or up to 6 months when frozen easy juicer Pressure-Cooked Polenta (see page 336)

This bright red sauce looks remarkably like tomato marinara-

use it as a pizza sauce. When strawberries are not in season, we use

tomatoes are also acidic, red berry fruits, after all-and you can

pears and pressure-cooked quince.

serve this marinara with polenta or ricotta-stuffed ravioli, or even INGREDIENT

WEIGHT

VOLUME

SCALING

PROCEDURE

Strawberries, hull ed

500 g

4 cups

227%

Rinse and juice. Measure 185 g/ 180 mL / :Y.. cup of the juice for use in the next step.

Strawberries, thinly sliced Tomatoes, peeled, seeded, and diced Sweet onion, minced Dry white wine Garlic, thin ly sli ced Basil leaves, torn Tarragon leaves, bruised

220g 175g

1Y2 cups 1 cup

100% SO%

lOOg lOOg 3g 2g 2g

:Y,. cup

45%

Combine with the measured strawberry ju ice in a large, heavybottomed pot. Simmer uncovered, stirring often, until the sa uce becomes as thick a nd intensely flavored as a rich marinara, about 35 minutes.

100 mL / Y2 cup y, Tbsp 3- 41eaves 7- 91eaves

45% 1.4% 0.9 % 0.9%

Salt Lime juice

to taste to taste

ÂŽ

@) Season the sauce, and serve it warm.

Flavor boost For eve n more fl avo r, fo ld in freshly grated lemon zest a nd jul ie nn ed basil just before serving.

114

MOD ERNIS T CUI SI NE AT HOM E

Porcini, bell pepper, spinach, and carotene butters; for recipes, see page 121

OILS AND FATS Fats are a fundamental component of food, and they play many important roles in defining the texture of foods and in their preparation. Oils and fats are the source ofthat unctuous, satiny mouthfeel of rich foods. They transfer heat with amazing efficiency, a property exploited by many cooking techniques, from saute to so us vide. Fats make laye re d pastri es possible by kee ping delicate sheets of dough from adhering. And they are an indispensa ble part of e mulsions and certain kinds offoams.

But some of t he most creative applications of fats and oils put them to use as vehicles of color and flavor-particularly savory flavors. You can often extract the essence of an ingredie nt by using a fat, as in the lemon herb oil below, and th e n incorporate th at flavor into a dressing or garnish. You can even cook in fl avo r-infused fats, as long as you use low temperatures. Flavor- and color-infused fats add a new and often unexpected dim e nsio n to dishes. The fat coats the tongue, and the flavors they carry ha ng around. A little goes a long way.

SOUS VIDE LEMON HERB OIL YIELD: TIME ESTIMATE : STORAGE NOTES: LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY: SPECIAL REQUIREMENTS:

200g/ 1 cup 133,4 hours overall, including 15 minutes ofpreparation and 130 hours unattended keeps for 2 weeks when refrigerated easy sous vide setup, lemon thyme leaves, lemon balm leaves, Makrud lime leaves

Lemon balm and lemon thyme can be found in grocery stores that

your own- starter plants are often available at plant nurseries.

have a good selection of fresh herbs. Or better yet, you can grow INGREDIENT

WEIGHT

VOLUME

SCALING

PROCEDURE

Grapeseed oil or unsa lted butte r

200 g

220 mL / 1 cup

100%

CD 0

Le mongrass, thinly sliced 40 g 25 g Lemon thyme leaves Lemon balm leaves, sli ced 10 g Makrud lime leaves, 10 g sliced

116

y, cup

20%

Vscup 1Y,. cups

13%

20 leaves

ÂŽ

Pre heat a water bath to 60 "C/ 140 "F. Combine in a zip-top bag, re move as much air as possible from the bag by using the water-d isp lacement method (see page 58), a nd sea l it . Cook so us vide for ,y, hours.

@) Refrigerate for12 hours. Stra in the o il (if using butter, me lt it first). Discard the so lids.

ÂŽ

5 MODERNIST VIN AIGRETIE YIELD:

275 g/ 1 ~ cups

TIME ESTIMATE:

10 minutes overall keeps for 5 days when refrigerated easy liquid soy lecithin (optional) Pressure-Cooked Lentil Salad (see page 175)

STORAGE NOTES: LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY: SPECIAL REQUIREMENTS: USED IN :

This recipe serves as a template for any basic vinaigrette; we list a halfdozen variations below, but you can substitute other oils and acids to create a variety of flavors. The liquid soy lecithin is optional, but add-

ing 1%-2% of this emulsifier to any vinaigrette prevents the oil from separating out. A pasteurized egg yolk (see page 142) also works well as an emulsifier, but it adds flavor, whereas lecithin does not.

INGREDIENT

WEIGHT

VOLUME

SCALING

PROCEDURE

Champagne vinegar

40g

45 mL/ 3Tbsp

40%

(!) Mix together.

Dijon mustard

25g 15g

lY2 Tbsp

White balsamic vinegar

15 mL / 1 Tbsp

25% 15%

Apple juice

lOg

10 mL/ 2 tsp

10%

Extra-virgin olive oil Walnut oil (or similar nut oil)

lOOg

110 mL/ Y, cup

100%

85g

90 mL/:Y. cup

85%

Liqu id soy lecithin (NOW brand), optional

Salt

to taste

0 0

Whisk together. Blend gradually into the vinegar mixture by using an immersion blender until fully emuls ifi ed.

@) Season the dressing genero usly, and serve it co ld or warm .

VARIATIONS Cilantro Vinaigrette Blanch, drain, and chop 75 g / 7 cups of c ilantro. Puree the ci lantro with 25 g / 4 tsp of tahini, 10 g / Y2 Tbsp of agave nectar, and the ingredients in step 1. Gradually blend in 100 g / 110 mL /Y2 cup of extra-virgin olive oil until fully emulsified. Season with salt.

Vietnamese-Style Dress ing Mix together 40 g / 45 mL / 3 Tbsp of rice vinegar, 25 g / 20 mL / 4 Y., tsp offish sauce, 15 g / 15 mL / 1 Tbsp of lim e juice, 10 g / 1 Tbsp of palm sugar, and 1.2 g / 1 green Thai chi li, minced. Gradually blend in 100 g / 110 mL / Y, cup of neutral-tasting oil. Season w ith salt .

Sesame Dressing Mix together40 g / 45 mL / 3 Tbsp of rice vinegar, 15 g / 15 mL / 2Y2 tsp of dark soy sauce, and 10 g /2 tsp of honey. Gradually blend in 80 g / 90 mL /:Y. cup of toasted-sesame oi l, and 100 g / 110 mL / Y, cup of neutral-tasting oi l. Add 26 g /:Y. cup of sl iced scallions. Season with salt.

Spiced Chili Dressing Mix together 68 g / 55 mL / 3Y2 Tbsp offish sauce and 56 g/2'h Tbsp of agave nectar. Gradually bl e nd in 92 g / 100 mL / Y2 cup of So us Vide Spiced Chili Oil (see next page) and 36 g / 40 mL / 2Y, Tbsp of toasted-sesame oil. Season with salt.

OILS AND FATS

Cherry Vinaigrette At step 1, add 100 g / Y2 cup of fresh or frozen cherries, pureed . Fines Herbes Vinaigrette with Pistachio Butter Blanch, drain, and chop 50 g / 3 cups of basil, 25 g /?'s cup of chives, and 15 g / 2 Tbsp each of scallions and tarragon . Puree the blanched herbs with the ingredients in step l. Gradually blend in 110 g / 120 mL / Y2 cup of extra-v irgin ol ive oil and 50 g / 2Y, Tbsp of pistachio butter until emulsified . Season with sa lt.

11 7

SOUS VIDE SPICED CHILl OIL YIELD: TIME ESTIMATE: STORAGE NOTES : LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY: SPECIAL REQUIREMENTS: USED IN:

SOOg/2 cups 80 hours overall, including 30 minutes ofpreparation and 8 hours unattended keeps for 2 weeks when refrigerated easy sous vide setup, mace blades (optional) Sichuan Bok Choy (see page 346), Spiced Chili Dressing (see variation on the previous page), Deep-Fried Tsukune (see variation on page 262)

Many aromatic compounds in spices and herbs are fat-soluble,

crispy tofu, steamed rice, or panfried fish. Do not substitute

so oil extracts a lot of flavor from these ingredients. This particular

ground mace for blades of mace, or else the flavor will be

oil is spicy, sweet, and fragrant. Drizzle it over steamed vegetables,

overwhelming.

INGREDIENT

WEIGHT

Dried chipotle chilies, 85g thinly sliced Coriander seeds, cracked 15 g Dri ed red chilies 15 g Star anise 15g

VOLUME

SCALING

PROCEDURE

1Y2 cups

17%

Y., cup y, cup

0 ®

Cinnamon sticks Fennel seeds, cracked Mace blades (optional)

lOg 6g Sg

10 pods 2-3 sticks

3% 3% 3% 2%

1 Tbsp 1 Tbsp

1.2% 1%

Grapeseed oil or similar neutral-tasting oil

SOOg

540 mL /2Y., cups

100%

Combine. Toast in the oven until aromatic, 15-20 minutes. @) Coo l comp letely. ® Crush with a mortar and pestle, or place in a zip-top bag, cover with a paper towel, and crush with a mallet or rolling pin.

0 ®

VARIATIONS Pressure-Cooked Spiced Chili Oil Skip steps 6 a nd 7. Instead, pressure-cook the o il and spices in canning jars at a gauge pressure of 1 bar / 15 psi for 30 minutes, and then continu e with step 8.

Preheat the oven to 135 oc / 275 °F, and preheat a water bath to 70 oc / 158 °F.

Comb in e with the crushed sp ices in a new zip-top bag, remove as much air as possible from the bag, and seal it. Cook so us vide for 8 hours. Coo l, and then strain. Allow the oil to infuse overnight before strain ing, if possible.

Garlic Oil Skip steps 1-5. At step 6, seal250 g / 2 cups of thinly sliced garl ic with the o il, and cook so us vide at 90 °C/ 194 °Ffor 4 hours.

Lemon Oil Skip steps 1-5. At step 6, seal45 g/ 5 Tbsp of freshly grated lemon zes t with the oil, and cook so us vide at 60 °C/ 140 °Ffor 2 hours .

Basic Chili Oil Skip steps 1- 5. At step 6, seal15 g / 3 Tbsp of dry chili fl akes with the oil, and cook so us vide at 70 °C/ 158 °Ffor 24 hours.

Ginger Oil Skip steps 1-5. At step 6, puree 225 g/ 2 cups of fresh ginger, thinly sliced, with th e oil. Cook so us vide at 70 °C/ 158 °Ffor 3 hours. Decant the oi l from the bag.

Vanilla Oil Skip steps 1-5. At step 6, sea l vanilla seeds scraped from two pods and the pod membranes with the oi l, and refrigerate for 24 hours.

Rosemary Oil Skip steps 1-5. At step 6, seal SO g / 1 cup of fresh rosemary with the oil, and cook so us vide at 80 °C/ 176 °FfOr1 hour.

Thyme Oil Skip steps 1- 5. At step 6, seallOO g/ 3 cups of fresh thyme sprigs with the oi l, and cook so us vid e at 55 °C/ 131 °Ffor45 minutes .

118

MODERNIST CUISINE AT HOME

MONTPELLIER BUTTER YIELD: TIME ESTIMATE: STORAGE NOTES: LEVEL OF D IFF ICULTY: SPEC IAL REQU IREMENTS: USED IN: GOES WELL WIT H:

850 g/ 3% cups 45 minutes overall keeps for up to 6 months when frozen moderate sous vide setup Filet Mignon with Montpellier Butter (see variation on page 263) So us Vide Braised Snails (see page 293)

Classic French cooking features many compound butters that melt onto hot food to create a sauce. One of the most famous is Montpellier

melting; the great advantage of this recipe is that the eggs and gelatin help the butter to stay better emulsified when hot.

butter. Unfortunately, compound butters tend to separate upon

ING RED IENT

WE IGHT

VOLUME

Egg yolks, blended

lOOg

6Y2Tbsp / 7-8 yo lks 22%

SCA LI NG

Unsalted butter

450g

2 cups

100%

Cold water Unflavored gelatin (Knox brand)

45g 18g

45 mL / 3Tbsp

10% 4%

Pressure-Cooked Garlic Confit

90g

6'/2 Tbsp

20%

30g

1Y2 Tbsp

25g

4 Tbsp

15g 15g

'/2 cup 4Tbsp

lOg

'/2 Tbsp

3% 3% 2%

9g 2.5g

2Y.. tsp 3,4 tsp

2% 0.6%

2g 2g 1.2g 0.7g

ltsp 2 mL /Y2 tsp ltsp Y.. tsp

0.4% 0.4% 0.3% 0.2%

see page 130

Chives, thinly sliced Italian parsley, chopped Fresh ginger, peeled and grated Salt Lemon zest Cayen ne pepper Lime ju ice Black pepper Star anise, fine ly ground

12 0

Preheat a water bath to 67 "C/ 153 "F. Place the yo lks in a zip-top bag, remove as much a ir as possib le from the bag by using the water-disp lacement method (see page 58), and seal it.

Cook sous vide for 30 minutes. Continue with steps 4-7 while the egg yolks cook.

0 ® ® 0 ®

see page126

Anchovy paste or Asian fish sauce Pickled onions, minced

PROCEDURE

CD 0

Soften to room temperature, and whisk until very smooth. Sprinkle the gelatin over the water in a small pan, and allow to soften for 5 minutes. Warm over low heat until melted . Blend into the soft butter until fully combined. Blend the butter mixture into the egg yolks gradually until fully emu lsified. Use an immersion blender or a stand mixer.

® Combine. @ Fold into the butter mixture until evenly distributed. @ Roll the butter in plastic wrap into logs, or spread it into sheets on a silicone mat, and cut it into pieces. If freezing the butter, wrap it with plastic wrap first . @ Serve the butter finely grated or in thin sheets over hot food.

MOD ERNIST CUISIN E AT HOME

5 STOVE-TOP CAROTENE BUTTER 250g/ 1 cup 14 hours overall, including 30 minutes ofpreparation and 130 hours unattended keeps for 2 weeks when refrigerated or up to 6 months when frozen moderate Caramelized Carrot Soup (see page 178)

YIELD: TIME ESTIMATE: STORAGE NOTES: LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY: USED IN:

The carotene pigment that makes carrots orange is fat-soluble; that is why your butter turns a beautiful orange when you make glazed carrots. By cooking carrot juice and butter together, you can dissolve the pigment into the butterfat. You can use a similar trick to capture the pigment that makes lobsters turn red when cooked; it, too, makes

cooking fish and shellfish, and whisking into warm vinaigrettes. So make plenty, if you can, and pull it out of the freezer when you want to add an elegant twist to simple dishes. In addition to the variations we suggest below, try making butters from other ingredients having fat-soluble pigments and flavor com-

a flavorful butter (see the next page). This carotene butter is superb for finishing soups and purees,

pounds, such as tomatoes, fresh chilies, fresh turmeric, and greens and herbs of all kinds.

INGRED IENT

WE IGHT

VOLUME

SCALING

PROCEDURE

Fresh carrot juice

700 g

700 mL / 3 cups

100%

Unsa lted butter, cubed

450 g

2 cups

64%

0 0

Measure 450 g/ 450 mL/ 2 cups, and bring the juice to simmer in a pot over medium heat. Reserve the remaining juice for use in step 4.

Blend gradually into the juice by using an immers ion blender. Simmer for1 Y, hours, stirring frequently. @) Remove from the heat, and stir or blend in the remaining carrot ju ice. ® Coo l, and then refrigerate overnight. ® Scoop the congea led butterfat into a pot, and warm it until melted . 0 Strain the melted butter through a fine sieve lined with cheesecloth.

VARIATIONS

Be ll Pepper Butter Substitute fresh red bel l pepper ju ice for the carrot juice. Spinach Butter Puree 450 g / 3'.4 cups of blanched, drained spinach into 450 g/ 490 mL / 2 cups of melted butter, and then continue at step 5. Coffee Butte r Combine 250 g / 3 cups of whole coffee beans (never ground) with the butter. Vacuum seal. and cook so us vide at 70 •c / 158 •r for 12 hours . Strain. Porcini Butte r Combine 225 g/ H'• cups of crumb led dry porcini with the butter. Vacuum seal, and cook so us vide at 70 •c / 158 •Ffor1 hour. Strain.

OilS AND FA TS

121

PRESSURE-COOKED CRUSTACEAN BUTTER YIELD: TIME ESTIMATE: STORAGE NOTES: LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY: SPECIAL REQUIREMENTS: USED IN:

350g/2cups 10 hours overall, including 30 minutes ofpreparation and 1 hour unattended keeps for 5 days when refrigerated or up to 2 months when frozen moderate pressure cooker; shells of lobsters, crabs, or shrimp Crustacean Hollandaise (see variation on page 106), Lobster Roll (see page 288)

The shells oflobster, crab, and shrimp turn pink or red when cooked

by cooking them in butter, oil, or some other fat. Use this highly

thanks to carotenes, the same family of molecules that give carrots

flavorful butter in place of ordinary butter to make an amazing

and tomatoes their color. And you can extract these fat-soluble pig-

hollandaise or beurre blanc sauce, or stir it into soups, sauces,

ments from crustacean shells, along with lots of flavor, the same way

and sautes.

as when making carotene butter from carrots (see previous page): INGREDIENT

WEIGHT

600 g Shells of lobsters, crabs, crayfish, shrimp, or prawns

VOLUME

SCALING

PROCEDURE

from 21obste rs or 21arge crabs

100%

Clean by discarding all organs, includ ing the gi lls a nd eyes.

0 Chop into pieces by using a heavy knife or a cleaver. ® Place the pieces into a large (4l/ 1 gal) zip-top bag, and partially seal it. Cover the bag with a towel, an d pound it with a mallet to crus h the shells into smaller pieces. This step accelerates flavor extraction .

Unsalted butter

450g

2 cups

75%

@) Melt in the base of a pressure cooker over low heat.

Baking soda

4.5g

ltsp

0.75%

® ®

Add, stir to dissolve comp letely, and sti r in the shells. Pressure-cook at a gauge pressure of1 bar / 15 psi for1 hour. Start timing as soo n as full press ure has been reached . 0 let the cooker cool, or run tepid water over the rim, to depressurize it. ® Refrigerate the shells in the butter overnight, if time permits, to further infuse their flavor. Reheat until melted. ® Strain. Discard the shells. @ let the butter rest until it clearly separates, and then pour the butter off the top. Alternatively, chi ll the butter until it sets, and then scoop it off the top. Safety tipsfar pressure-cooking: see page 33

any re nd e red lobste r juices that a re be neath th e butte r wh en you po ur it off in ste p 10. Th ey are quite sweet and delicious whe n add ed to a she llfish bisque or sauce. Save

VARIATIONS So us Vide Crustacean Butter Pre heat a water bath to 88 •c / 190 • F. Follow steps 1-3, vacuum sea l the pieces together with the butter and baking soda, and cook so us vide for 5 hours. Plunge the bag in an ice bath, and then refrigerate it for12 hours to a ll ow the fl avors to infuse. Reheat until melted, and then continue at step 9. Pressure-Cooked Lobster Bisque Heavy crea m 450 g Lobster shell s, broken 350 g into sma ll pieces 200g Dry white wine Sweet onion, sliced 150g Tomato paste 20g Tarragon, leaves 2g 0.1g Cayenne pepper Salt to taste

500 ml / 2 cups from 1 lobste r 200 ml/7'• cup

1Y2 cups 1y, Tbsp 7- 91eaves pinch

Comb in e all the ingred ients in a pressure cooker, and cook at a gauge pressure of1 bar / 15 psi for 45 minutes. Depressurize the cooker. Strain into a pot. Discard the solids. Simmer the liquid over medium-high heat until reduced by ha lf. Season the soup to taste, and serve with minced chives and lobster meat cooked so us vide (see steps 1-5 on page 288).

122

MOOERNIST CUISINE AT HOME

5 PRESSURE-RENDERED CHICKEN FAT YIELD:

100-200 g/ 0-1 cup, depending on the fat content of the chicken skin

TIME ESTIMATE:

2 hours overall, including 30 minutes ofpreparation and 10 hours unattended keeps for 2 weeks when refrigerated and up to 6 months when frozen

STORAGE NOTES: LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY: SPECIAL REQUIREMENTS: USED IN :

moderate meat grinder, pressure cooker, two 500 mL I 16 oz canning jars Home Jus Gras (see page 93), Chicken Noodle Soup (see page 273)

A recipe for fat may strike some as strange, but fat is one of the key flavor elements in food. French cuisine would be unrecognizable without cream and butter. Indian cuisine relies heavily on ghee

meats because it does not distract from the flavor of the other ingredients. We use our Modernist schmaltz to enrich chicken sauce, salad dressing, and garlic, but it has innumerable applications-you

(clarified butter). Chefs in Mediterranean countries turn habitually to olive oil, while those in Tibet always have yak butter on hand. The recipe here is for rendered chicken fat, which is widely used

can even use it to fry eggs! Buy chicken skin from your butcher, or collect scraps of fat and skin from other chicken recipes in the freezer until you have enough

in Ashkenazi Jewish cuisine. (The Yiddish word for it-schmaltzhas taken on a whole other connotation in American English.) As much as we love cream, butter, and olive oil, rendered fat is

to render. Note that the same technique can be used for any animal fat, including turkey, duck, or goose skin, and fatty trimmings from cuts of pork, veal, or beef.

sometimes a better choice for use in a sauce or as a complement to VOLUME

INGREDIENT

WEIGHT

Chicken skin, ground Baking soda (optional)

500 g/ l.llb 2Y.. cups Y:z tsp 2.5 g

SCALING

PROCEDURE

100% 0.5%

Combine, and divide equally into two 500 mL/ 16 oz cann ing jars. Tighten the lids fully, and then unscrew them one-quarter turn so that they do not explode. 0 Place the fil led jars on a rack or trivet in the base of a pressure cooker with 2.5 cm / 1 in of water. ® Pressure-cook at a gauge pressure of1 bar / 15 psi for1 Y2 hours. Start timing as soon as full pressure has been reached. @) Let the cooker coo l, or run tepid water over the rim, to depressurize it. Let the jar contents cool before opening to avoid sp lattering. ® Strain. Discard the so lids. ® Allow the liquid to settle, and then decant the warm fat. Alternatively, refrigerate it until the fat solidifies, at least 4 hours, and then scoop the clear fat off the top. Safety tipsfa r pressure-cooking: see page 33

OTHER WAYS TO RENDER FAT

We use canni ng jars insid e the pressure cooker because it simplifies cleanup, and we aren't usually rendering more fat than will fit in a co upl e jars. But you can render a large batch by putting 2.5 cm / 1 in of water in the pressure cooker, and then adding the ground skin. The pressure cooker shou ld be no more than two-thirds full.

Wet-Rendering Drop the skin or fat into boiling water, and reduce it until all that is left are pieces of meat and tissue floating in bubbling fat. Stra in. Discard the solids. Allow the liquid to separate, and then pour the warm fat off th e top.

OILS AND FAT S

Dry-Rendering Saute the skin or fat ove r low heat unti l the fat melts. The cook ing causes Maillard reactions that enhance the flavor of the rendered fat. Dry-rendered fat keeps for seve ral weeks in the refrigerator. This method works particularly well with fatty bacon.

1 23

CONDIMENTS Condiments are small, usually intensely flavored additions to a plate that help to round out and highlight the dish. Often, condiments are served in such a way that the eater has some control over how much to add to each bite. Each region has its traditional condiments; in the United States, we're used to ketchup, mustard, pickle relish, and tartar sauce (eaten with foods like hot dogs, French fries, and fried seafood). Elsewhere in the world, bottles of vinegar or hot chili sauce are standard table settings. But the spectrum of condiments is practically infinite and allows for wide creativity.

Use condiments to give a dish more depth by adding layers of complementary flavors. Or devise accompaniments that balance the dominant fl avo r of the dish: so mething creamy and cool to accompany a spicy food, or something tart to go with a rich, savory dish. Condiments also allow you to add visual contrast or a final touch of richness to the prese ntation of a plate. In this section, we present seve ral of ourfavorite condiments that pair well with other recipes in this book. Together, they illustrate a range of techniques that you can extend with your own ideas.

GRILLED APPLESAUCE YIELD: TIME ESTIMATE: STORAGE NOTES: LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY: SPECIAL REQUIREMENTS: GOES WELL WITH:

380 g/ 1% cups 40 minutes overall, including 20 minutes ofpreparation and 20 minutes unattended keeps for 1 day when refrigerated moderate sous vide setup, charcoal grill Grilled Pork Chop (see page 202), Aged White Cheddar on Sourdough with Apples (see variation onpage318)

The apples for this sauce are twice-cooked: first sou s v ide, which establishes just the right texture, and again on the grill, which devel-

the apples emerge from the water bath, they should be firm enough to hold together on the grill but soft enough to puree to a creamy

ops the roasted flavors that m ake this applesauce distinctive. When

sauce. We call for green apples, but other varieties work well, too.

INGREDIENT

WEIGHT

VOLUME

SCALING

PROCEDURE

Green a ppl es, peeled, qua rte red, and cored

1 kg

41arge

100%

CD 0

Cooking spray or ne utral frying oil

as needed

Remove the ap ples from the bag, and spray or brush them with a light coating of o il. ® Sear the app les, on one side o nly, on the grill over the banked coa ls until the side facing the grill turns brown, a bout 3 minutes. ® Puree the seared apples in a blender until smooth. @ Pass the puree through a fine sieve, a nd measure 250 g/ 1Va cups for use in the next step.

see page xxii

40 g Dijon mustard Re nde red bacon fat, warm 40 g

Preheat a water bath to 90 •c / 194 •F. Vacu um seal the app les in a single layer. @ Cook sous vid e until tender, abo ut 20 minutes. @ While the app les are cook ing, build a fire in a charcoa l grill, and prepa re a n ice-water bath a longs id e th e so us vide water bath . ® Place a clean gri ll rack over the coa ls to preheat fo r at least 10 minutes. When the coals are gray and as hy, bank them to one sid e. ® Plunge th e bag of cooked apples into the ice bath until comp letely coo l.

3Tbsp 45 mL / 3 Tbsp

2Tbsp 20 mL / 3:Y,. tsp

3.5% 1.6%

@ Co mbine with the app le puree, a nd stir together.

see th e prev ious page

Hon ey Cider vinegar

35g 16 g

Salt

to taste

124

@ Season the sauce, and serve it co ld or warm.

MODERNIST CUISINE AT HOME

5 PRESSURE-COOKED PICKLED MUSTARD SEEDS YIELD: TIME ESTIM ATE: STOR AGE NOTE S: LEVEL OF DIFFI CU LTY: SPE C IAL REQ UIREM ENTS: USED IN:

350g/ l cup 13 hours, including 30 minutes ofpreparation and 120 hours unattended keeps for 5 days in brine when refrigerated easy pressure cooker Honey Mustard Sauce (see page 259), Microwaved Potato Salad (see page 346)

Mustard seeds are naturally bitter, but overnight soaking followed

Serve the pickled seeds as a condiment with braised meat, or st ir

by five rounds of blanching removes a ny trace of bitterness. We then

them into vinaigrettes, mayonnaise, hollandaise, or reduction sauces

pressure-cook the seeds to give them a pleasant "pop" when eaten.

to add both texture and a sweet-and-sour accent.

ING RED IENT

WEIG HT

VO LUME

SCA LI NG

PROCEDU RE

Ye ll ow mustard seeds

50 g

4Y, Tbsp

100%

Cove r with co ld wate r, and refr ige rate ove rn ight or for12 ho urs.

0 Strain .

0 App le cider vin egar Water Suga r Sa lt

100 g 70 g 40 g Sg

120mL / Y., cup 70 ml/ YJ cup 3 Tbsp 1\4 tsp

200% 140% 80% 10%

Cove r wi th more cold water in a sma ll pot, bring to a bo il, and th e n strain. Repeat ste p 3 four more times.

® Co mbin e in th e base of a pressure cooke r, and sti r unti l dissolved. ® Bring to a simm er, a nd add th e stra ined seeds to the brine.

0 ® ®

Press ure-cook at a ga uge press ure ofl ba r/ 15 psi for 25 minutes. Start tim ing as soon as ful l pressure has bee n reached. Let th e coo ke r coo l, or run tepid wate r ove r th e rim, to depressurize it. Strain th e seeds, rese rving the brin e for storing the see ds, and se rve th e m warm or co ld.

Safety tipsf or pressure-cooking: see page 33

COND IM ENT S

12 5

PRESSURE-COOKED GARLIC CONFIT YIELD: TIME ESTIMATE: STORAGE NOTES: LEVEL OF DIFF ICULTY: SPEC IAL REQU IREMENTS: USED IN:

300 g/ B4 cups 2~ hours overall, including 15 minutes ofpreparation and 2 hours unattended keeps for 1 month when refrigerated moderate pressure cookerj 500 mL/ 16 oz canning jar Montpellier Butter (see page 120), Aioli (see variation on page 108J Garlic Hollandaise (see variation on page 106), Steel-Cut Oats with Sous Vide Braised Snails (see variation on page 331), Caramelized Onion Gravy (see variation on page 101), Broccoli Raab Pizza (see variation on page 306), Creamed Spinach (see page 199), Garlic Mashed Potatoes (see variation on page 230)

Garlic confit is a staple condiment. The garlic is soft enough to

body to any liquid. The oil, which is just as flavorful, is delicious

spread on bread with a sprinkle of salt. Or use it to add depth to broths, sauces, purees, and vinaigrettes. The silky, soft cloves add

drizzled over salads or into vegetable stews (see page 185).

ING RED IENT

WE IG HT

VOLUME

SCA LI NG

PROCEDU RE

O li ve oi l Garlic cloves, peeled Rosemary Thyme

200g 125g 2g 2g

220 mL / 1 cup about 50 cloves 1 sprig 2-3 sprigs

160% 100% 1.6% 1.6%

(j) Place in a 500 mL/ 16 oz cann ingjar, tighten the lid fu lly, and then unscrew it one-quarter turn so that the jar doesn 't explode. 0 Place the filled jar on a rack or trivet in the base of a pressure cooker, and add 2.5 cm / 1 in of water. ÂŽ Pressure-cook at a gauge pressure of1 bar / 15 psi for 2 hours. Start timing as soon as full pressure has been reached. @) Let the cooker cool, or run tepid water over the rim, to depressurize it. Let the jar contents cool before opening.

ÂŽ

Serve the con fit warm or cold.

Safety tipsf or pressure-cooking: see page 33

VARIATIONS Prove n <;a l Ga rl ic Co n fit Add other Proven~al aromatics such as oregano, fennel seed, bay leaf, lavender, and sage to the rosemary and thyme .

Medite rra nea n Vegetab le Zucch ini, sliced into 0 .5 cm / :Y16 in rounds Red bell pepper, julienned Button mushrooms, cut into eighths Extra-virgin olive oil Ba lsamic vinegar Salt

Co nfit 225 g 125 g lOOg

370 g 6g to taste

about18 rounds about 1 pepper about 8 mushrooms 410 mL / 1:Y., cups 7 mL/ 1Y, tsp

Divide the vegetab les into two 500 mL / 16 oz canning jars, and cover with the olive oil. Pressurecook at a gauge pressure of1 bar / 15 psi for 45 minutes. Start timing as soon as fu ll pressure has been reached. Depressurize the cooker. Let the jar contents coo l before opening. Strain the vegetables from the jars, and season with balsamic vinegar, olive oil from the jar, and salt to taste.

Make a double batch: it keeps well.

Fi nger ling Potatoes Confit Fingerling potatoes, cut 300g into 2.5 cm / 1 in pieces Thyme Pressure-rendered 250g chicken fat, melted to taste Salt

2:Y. cups 2 sprigs 280 mL / lVs cups

Divide the potatoes and thyme into two 500 mL / 16 oz cann ingjars, and cover with the fat. Pressurecook at a gauge .pressure of1 bar / 15 ps i for45 minutes. Start timing as soon as full pressure has been reached . Depressurize the cooker. Let the jar contents coo l before opening. Drain the potatoes, season, and serve them warm . They pair very well with roasted chicken (see page 238).

126

M ODERNI ST CUI SINE AT HOM E

5 PRESSURE- CA RAMELIZED ONIONS YIELD : TIME EST IMATE: STORAGE NOTES: LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY: SPEC IAL REQUIREMENTS: USED IN:

380 g/ 11/2 cups 1 hour overall, including 20 minutes ofpreparation and 40 minutes unattended keeps for 5 days when refrigerated moderate pressure cooker, three 500 mL/ 16 oz canning jars Caramelized Onion Gravy (see variation on page 101), Alsatian Omelet Filling (see variation on page 145), Savory Cheese Pie (see variation on page 379)

Caramelized onions are a favorite component of many dishes. They can be used as a topping for a hamburger or pizza, served as a side dish for a steak, or placed center stage as the featured

Modernist method browns the onions perfectly with no h andson effort, maximizing their flavor while minimizing the risk of burning them. After pressure-cooking, the onions are quite

ingredient of a French onion soup or an onion tart. There are many ways to make caramelized onions. This

variation below).

soft; you can dry them on the stove top or in a dehydrator (see

INGREDIENT

WE IG HT

VOLUME

SCALING

PROCEDURE

Ye ll ow o nion, ju li enned Baking soda

500g 1.5g

4')4 cups

Y.. tsp

100% 0.3%

Unsalted butter, cubed

35g

3Tbsp

CD 0 ®

Sa lt Sugar Black pepper, gro un d

Comb ine in a large bowl, and mix thorough ly. Divide the onion mixture evenly into three 500 mL / 16 oz canning jars. Divide the butter evenly among the filled jars. Tighten the lids fully, and then unscrew them one-quarter turn so that the jars don't exp lode. @) Place the filled jars on a rack or trivet in the base of a pressure cooke r, and add 2.5 cm / 1 in of water. ® Pressure-cook at a gauge pressure of1 bar / 15 psi for40 minutes. Start timing as soon as full pressure has been reached. ® Let the cooker cool, or run tepid water ove r the rim, to depressurize it. Let the jar contents coo l before opening to avoid splattering.

to taste to taste to taste

0 ®

Transfer the cooked onions to a pot. Simmer over medium heat, stirring occasionally, unti l the liquid has reduced to a syrup, 10- 12 minutes.

Season the onions to taste, and serve them warm.

Safety tipsf or pressure-cooking: see page 33

VAR IAT IONS Dried Carame lized Onions For a drier texture and more concentrated flavor, drain the liquid from the cooked onions after step 6. (You can use this liquid as a flavorful broth or stir it into a meat or poultry jus.) Arrange the onions in a dehydrator, and dehydrate them at 63 •c / 145 • F until slightly J·e athery, 1\1,-2 hours. Alternatively, saute the onions in a pan over very low heat; take care not to burn them.

French Onion Soup After step 7, add 200 g /200 mL/rs cup of brown beef stock (see page 86), 15 g/ 15 mL / 1 Tbsp of dry sherry, and a sprig of fresh thyme. Bring the soup to a boil, and then divide it into bow ls. Top each bowl with toasted crusty bread covered with a Perfectly Me lting Cheese Sli ce (see page 317) or some other variety of constructed cheese.

CONDIMENT S

127

TOMATO CONFIT YIELD: TIME EST IMATE: STORAGE NOTES: LEVEL OF DIFF ICULTY: SPEC IAL REQU I REMENTS : USED IN:

150 g/ 1 cup up to 80 hours overall, including 20 minutes ofpreparation and 5-8 hours unattended keeps for 5 days when refrigerated or up to 6 months when frozen easy vacuum sealer Tomato Leather (see the next page), Goat Cheese on Baguette with Tomato Confit and Basil (see variation on page 319), Pork Belly B.L.T (see page 232)

ING RED IENT

WE IGHT

VO LUME

SCA LI NG

PROCEDURE

Tomatoes (Roma or on-the-vine)

1 kg

6-8 medium

100%

0 0 0 0 ® ®

0 Extra-virgi n o live oi l

40g

45 mL / 3Tbsp

Garlic, thin ly sl iced

15g

2Tbsp

1.5%

Thyme

4-5 sprigs

0.4%

Fresh bay leaves, torn

21eaves

0 .1%

Salt

2g 2g

Y2tsp Y2tsp

0 .2%

Sugar

0 .2%

® ®

Preheat the oven to 110 •c / 230 •F. Bring a large pot of wate r to a bo il, and arrange an ice-water bath alongs id e. Core the tomatoes, and slice a small X in th e skin opposite the core. Blan ch the tomatoes for 30 seconds, and then plunge them into the ice bath. Peel the tomatoes. Cut th em in half lengthwise, and gently remove and discard the seeds. Pat them dry, and place them cut-side down on a baking sheet lined with a sili co ne mat. Brush evenly onto the tomato halves. Scatter ove r the tomato halves. Bas il or tarragon may be substituted.

@ Sprinkle eve nly over the tomato halves. @ Place the tomatoes in the oven, and dry them for 1 hour. @ Turn th e tomatoes over, lower the oven temperature to 95 •c / 205 •F, and return them to the oven to dry until they beco me deep red and shriveled, 5- 8 hours depending on the ir size and water content.

@ Cool, and then pi ck off and disca rd th e garl ic and herbs. Extra-virgin olive oi l

40g

45 mL/ 3Tbsp

@ Vacuum sea l with th e tomatoes to infuse th e ol ive oil. @ Serve warm or co ld.

(adapted from Heston Blumenthal)

We always have oven-dried tomatoes on hand to add depth of flavor to simple dishes. Roma-style tomatoes give the most consistent resu lts, and they don't have to be perfect: blemishes can't be seen once they shrivel, and drying concentrates the flavors of watery or bland tomatoes .

128

MODERNIST CUISINE AT HOME

5 TOMATO LEATHER YIELD: TIME ESTIMATE: STORAGE NOTES: LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY: SPECIAL REQUIREMENTS: USED IN:

40 g/ one 10 em by 15 em / 4 in by 6 in sheet up to 2~ hours overall, including 15 minutes ofpreparation and 2 hours unattended keeps for 1 week when rolled in a single layer in waxed paper and sealed in plastic wrap moderate food dehydrator, xanthan gum (optional) Lobster Roll (see page 288)

Leathers make a healthy snack or a fancy garnish (say, a little tangle

as onion. The oil in the recipe prevents the leather from sticking

of apple leather atop squash soup). The variations below show how

to your teeth; the more oil you use, the more tender and supple

to extend this recipe to myriad other fruits and even vegetables, such

the resulting leather.

INGREDIENT

WEIGHT

VOLUME

SCALING

PROCEDURE

Tomato Con fit, pureed, or tomato paste

100g

6Tbsp

100%

0 0

see previous page

Extra-virgin olive oil Red wine vinegar

5g 5g Hot sauce (Tabasco brand) 1 g Xanthan gum (Bob's Red 0.2g Mill brand), optional

6 mL / lYa tsp 7 mL / lYa tsp 1 mL / 2 drops

Stir the tomato con fit or paste, olive oil, vinegar, Tabasco, and xanthan gum (optional) together thoroughly. If you are using the xanthan gum, make sure to stir until it is well distributed.

Spread the mixture onto a nonstick surface in a rectangle 10 em by 15 em / 4 in by 6 in, about 2 mm / Y•• in thick. An offset spatula is the ideal tool for this.

VA RI AT IONS Mango Chili Leather Mango, diced and peeled Neutral-tasting oil

100 g 4g

Sugar Red Thai ch ili

2g 1g

Puree together, and continue with step 2.

)"a cup

4 mL /?'a tsp y, tsp

y, tsp

Stir thoroughly to combine. Spread onto a nonstick surface in a rectangle 10 em by 15 em / 4 in by 6 in, about2 mm /Y•• in thick . Dry the mixture in a food dehydrator at 65 ' C/ 150 ' F until it turns leathery, 1'/2-2 hours . Alternative ly, dry until leathery in an oven set to its lowest temperature setting. Drying times vary.

5% 5% 1%

0.2%

@) Peel the leather from the nonstick surface, and cut it into desired shapes. ® Serve at room temperature.

Dry the mixture in a food dehydrator at 65 ' C/ 150 ' F until it turns leathery and flexible, and is easy to peel, 1Y2-2 hours. If a dehydrator is not avai lable, use an oven set to its lowest temperature; the drying time will vary.

Peel the tomato leather from the nonstick surface, and cut it into the desired shapes.

Serve the leather at room temperature.

Fruit Leather Substitute apple, pear, apricot, raspberry, or persimmon for the mango in the va riation at left, and add 0 .2 g of xanthan gum and up to 15 g of sugar for eve ry 100 g of puree. You can also use whole mandarin oranges or quince, but these fruits must first be pressure-cooked until tender and then sieved. Onion Leather At step 1, substitute cooked onion or sha ll ot puree for the tomato con fit, and replace the olive oil with a neutral-tasting vegetable oil. Puree, and then continue with step 2.

CON DI M ENTS

129

VACUUM-PICKLED VEGETABLES YIELD: TIME ESTIMATE : STORAGE NOTES: LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY: SPECIAL REQUIREMENTS: USED IN:

300g/2cups 12~ hours overall, including 15 minutes ofpreparation and 12 hours unattended keeps for 2 weeks when refrigerated easy vacuum sealer with marinating attachment, rigid vacuum storage container or canning jars Sweet Onion Slaw (see page 165), Autumn Flavors Bok Choy (see variation on page 346)

We use pickled vegetables minced and mixed into salads, as condiments for grilled meats, and as a garnish for stews. This recipe uses carrots, but it works just as well with other vegetables- and even with fruits-such as cauliflower florets, thinly sliced lemons, radishes, pearl onions, apples, beets, cucumbers, blanched mushrooms, julienned red onions, and sunchokes (Jerusalem artichokes). Simply substitute them for the carrots at step 2. INGREDIENT

WEIGHT

The thinner you slice the vegetables, the quicker they pickle. We seal the pickles while the brine is warm to create a mild vacuum and a more tender pickle; if you prefer crisp pickles, chill the brine before adding it at step 4. When the pickles are gone, don't throw the pickling liquid away. Use it as a base for a vinaigrette, or stir it into a dirty martini.

VOLUME

SCALING

PROCEDURE

Comb in e in a pot to make a brine, and bring it to a simmer.

0 ÂŽ 0

Pour the warm brine over the carrots, and stir until moistened. Coo l slightly. Pour the carrots and liquid into a rigid vacuum storage container or canning jars, and vacuum sea l. Refrigerate for at least 12 hours.

Water White wine vinegar Sugar Sa lt Yellow mustard seeds Black peppercorns Coriander seeds Fresh bay leaves

200g 200g BOg 12g 3g 2.5g 1.5g 0.5g

200 mL /;Y. cup 230 mL / 1 cup Y, cup 1 Tbsp ltsp 1Y, tsp ltsp 21eaves

100% 100% 40% 6% 1.5% 1.3% 0.8% 0.3%

Carrots, sli ced 3 mm / Ys in thick

300g

2Y' cups

150%

ÂŽ

Combine all ingredients except the vegetab les in a pot, and bring them to a simmer. This is the brine.

We like our pickles on the sweet side. For a more traditional sour pickle, reduce the amount of sugar to 15 g/ 1Y, Tbsp.

Pour the warm brine over the vegetab les, and stir until they are moistened.

Coo l the mixture slight ly.

13 0

Place the vegetables into a rigid vacuum storage container or canning jars, and pour the warm brine over top. Seal the jars, or vacuum sea l the container by using a tube attachment until bubbles no longer rise to the surface. Vacuum sealing acce lerates the infus ion of the brine into the vegetables.

MOD ERNIST CUISINE AT HOME

To preserve the pickled vegetab les and give them a fresh, distinct snap, add 2 g of calcium ch loride or ca lcium lactate at step 1.

Refrigerate for at least 12 hours for best flavor, agitating several times to ensure that the vegetab les are even ly pickled.

The pickled carrots, Romanesco, radishes, and beets above were made in old-fashioned canning jars, but you can infuse brine into vegetables more quickly by using a modern tool: a whipping siphon. Place the vegetables and brine in the siphon, charge it with two cartridges of nitrous oxide, and refrigerate it for 20 minutes.

VACUUM-INFUSED CELERY YIELD: TIME ESTIMATE : STORAGE NOTES: LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY: SPECIAL REQUIREMENTS: USED IN:

60g/ 0cup 35 minutes overall, including 5 minutes ofpreparation and 30 minutes unattended serve immediately moderate vacuum sealer with marinating attachment, malic acid or citric acid Lobster Roll (see page 288)

Any porous fruit or vegetable, such as celery, apple, fennel, or watermelon, can be vacuum-infused with its own juice or with another

in the cells of the plant tissue with the liquid of your choice. Malic

flavorful thin liquid. The process fills the air pockets, called vacuoles,

tartness of green apples. Do not use malic acid dietary supplements.

acid, available from wine-making and brewing suppliers, adds the

INGREDIENT

WEIGHT

VOLUME

SCALING

PROCEDURE

Apple juice Celery seeds

200g

200 mL /¥a cup 3Tbsp

100%

<D 0

y, cup

30%

Malic acid or citric acid Celery, sli ced 5 mm /:Y•• in thick

20g 4g 60g

10% 2%

Stir together until the malic acid has dissolved. Allow to infuse for 30 minutes, and strain. Discard the seeds.

Combine with the strained app le juice in a sma ll bowl. The liquid should cover the slices. @) Place the bowl in a can ister spec ifica lly designed for vacu um sea ling or marinating, and vacuum seal. Alternatively, place in a canni ng jar having a special vacuum-sealing lid, and seal. ® Release the vacuum to infu se the celery. ® Drain the celery, and serve it immediately.

VARIATIONS Press ure-Infused Celery If you have a whipping siphon, you can infuse the food by using high pressure rather than a vacuum. After step 3, pour the mixture into a wh ipping siphon. The liquid shou ld cover the ce lery slices. Charge the siphon with two cartridges of nitrous ox id e, and refrigerate it for 20 minutes. Release the pressure, drain the celery, and serve it immediately.

Waldorf Salad Apple-infused celery makes a great add iti on to this classic New York salad. To 40 g / 5 Tbsp of the infused celery slices, add 100 g/ 1 cup of chopped butter lettuce, 50 g/:Ya cup of finely julienned ce lery root, 50 g / 711 cup of th inly sliced green app le, and 25 g / 2Y2 Tbsp of chopped walnuts. Toss with 45 g / 3Y' Tbsp of romaine dressing (see steps 1-9 on page 168).

CONDIMEN TS

13 1

BRINES AND MARINAD ES Salt is not just a universal seasoning. It also has a powerful chemical ability to retain juices within fish and meat during cooking, provided you distribute the salt evenly throughout the meat at the proper concentration. That isn't easy, but a few special tools make it manageable. Slathering salt on the outside of a fish or a piece of meat doesn't work very well, unless you want the distinctive flavor and firm, smooth texture of a cured meat, like corned beef or smoked salmon. At such high concentrations, salt actually causes the proteins in meat to fall apart. The subtler effect ofbrining is more widely useful. Brining is the technique of soaking meat in a dilute salt solution until the dissolved salt permeates the muscle tissue. You're shooting for a final concentration of about 0.5% salt throughout the meatweak compared to curing. The challenge with brining is getting the meat deep in the interior to be just as salty as the meat on the outside. Unless you know what you're doing, it's easy to

This challenge is very similar to cooking-you want the meat done the way you like it, all the way from core to edge- and the solution is analogous, too. In cooking, low temperatures and long cooking times are the sure path to evenly cooked meat. If you just throw food on a roaring hot grill, timing is crucial and easy to misjudge, and some overcooking is inevitable. Likewise when brining, the conventional approach of soaking meat in a strong salt solution requires you to pull it out at just the right moment-hard to do without the equivalent of a thermometerfor measuring salinity. Resting the meat does allow the salt gradient to even out somewhat, but there's just no avoiding an oversalted exterior and an undersalted interior. Modernist brining, akin to cooking sous vide, soaks the meat for long periods (up to 24 hours) in a solution having a salt concentration only slightly higher than that target of 0.5%. The risk of oversalting is eliminated. You can accelerate the process by using a brine injector, syringe, Jaccard tenderizer, or even a whipping siphon.

end up with a steep gradient of saltiness.

SWEET BRINE FOR MEATS YIELD: TIME ESTIMATE: STORAGE NOTES : LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY: SPECIAL REQUIREMENTS:

170 g/% cup of brine for 750 g/ 1.7/b of meat 12VI hours, including 12 hours unattended brine keeps for up to 3 days when refrigerated; brined and drained meat keeps for up to 24 hours when refrigerated but must then be cooked easy brine injector or syringe

This brine works well with all meats. For a less sweet variation, simply replace the milk and juice with water. Bear in mind, however, that whole milk and apple juice both contain natural phosphates

If you have a Jaccard meat tenderizer, you can use that instead of an injector; puncture the meat on all sides, and then soak it in the brine for 24 hours.

that tenderize the meat as it brines. INGREDIENT

WEIGHT

VOLUME

SCALING

PROCEDURE

Whole milk Apple juice Salt Sugar

75 g 75g lOg 9g

75 mL / 5Tbsp 75 mL / 5 Tbsp 2Y, tsp 1 Tbsp

10% 10% 1.3% 1.2%

0 Stir togethe r until th e sa lt and sugar are compl ete ly dissolved.

Raw, boneless meat, no thicker than 3.5 cm / P/s in

750 g/ 1.7lb

100%

132

ÂŽ

Inject the meat with as much brine as it will hold, and th e n immerse it in any leftover brin e. Refri ge rate th e brin ed meat for 12 hours before cooking.

MODERNIST CUI SINE AT HOME

5 VARIATION : Savory Poultry Brin e At step 1 of the recipe below for Bas ic Brin e for Whole Poultry, add 10 g/ 2 Tbsp of toasted coriander seeds, 8 g/ 2 tsp of black pepperco rns, and 5 g of star anise (a bout 5 star an ise pods) to the salted water, and bring to a boil. Coo l co mpletely, and strain. Continue with step 2.

BASIC BRINE FOR WHOLE POULTRY

210 g/78 cup of brine for 2 kg/ 4.4lb ofpoultry 2414 hours, including 24 hours unattended brine keeps indefinitely before usej brined poultry keeps for up to 24 hours when refrigerated easy

YIELD: TIME ESTIMATE : STORAGE NOTES: LEVEL OF D IF FICULTY: INGREDIENT

WEIGHT

VOLUME

SCA LING

PROCEDURE

Water

200g

200 mL /1-'a cup

10%

Stir together until the sa lt is comp letely dissolved.

Salt

12 g

1 Tbsp

0.6%

Chicken

2 kg / 4.4 1b

1whole

100%

Inj ect the brin e as eve nly as possibl e th rougho ut the meat. Place the need le as shown above and into th e neck and back cavities to avo id puncturing the skin.

ÂŽ

Refrigerate the brined chicken for 24 hours, uncove red, to dry the skin before roasting (see page 238), steaming, or poaching th e bird.

FISH BRINE

1.1 kg/ 414 cups of brine for 600 g/ l.Jlb offish up to 1214 hours, including 10 minutes ofpreparation and 5-12 hours unattended brine keeps indefinitely before usej cook brined fish immediately easy

YIELD: TIME EST IMATE: STORAGE NOTES: LE VEL OF D IF FICULTY: INGREDIENT

WEIGHT

VOLUME

SCALING

PROCEDURE

Water

1 kg

1 L/ 4\4 cups

167%

Stir together until the sa lt and sugar are comp letely dissolved.

Salt

50 g

4)/2 Tbsp

Sugar

40 g

3)/2 Tbsp

Fish, cut into individual portions

600 g/ 1.31b

Soak in the brine for 5 hours for a light brine with del icate seasoning, or for up to 12 hours for a firmer, more intensely flavored result. Use the longer brining time when making co ld fish dishes.

7% 100%

VARIATIONS Seaweed Fish Brine After step 1, add 10 g/ 2 Tbsp of toasted coriander seeds, 10 g (abo ut 2 sheets) of kombu seaweed, and 3 g/ 3 tsp of grated lemon zest to the brin e, and bring it to a boil. Cool the brine comp letely, and then stra in it. Continue with step 2.

Fish Cure Curing is generally faster than brining because the sa lt and sugar are not diluted in liquid . To make a quick cure for fish, co mbin e 35 g/ 3Y' Tbsp of salt with 25 g/ 2Y2Tbsp of sugar for every 1 kg / 2.2 1b offish. Cut the fish into about six portions. Coat each portion even ly with the cure. Refrigerate the fish, covered, for45 minutes, and then rinse it, pat dry, and cook.

BRIN ES AND MARINADES

1 33

MARINADES By mixing together just a few flavorful items from the pantry, you can create a marinade that adds an evocative regional flavor to meats, poultry, seafood, or vegetables. Each of the variations below is made the same way. Stir all of the ingredients together, and add up to 450 g / lib of the food you want to marinate. Refrigerate for the time indicated, and then cook. Each of these recipes includes a good bit of salt, either directly

Kalbi Marinade Apple juice Sugar Light soy sauce Goc hujang, Korean fermented chi li paste Ga rli c, chopped

or in one of the liquid ingredients. As such, these marinades are actually flavored brines. Although most of the flavor of the marinade penetrates only the surface of the food, the salt sinks in more deeply. It firms the texture and enhances the juiciness of the food as it seasons. Acids in the marinade also can change food texture, and not always for the better, so don't leave them on for longer than suggested.

200g 75g 50g 50g

200 ml/7"a cup ÂĽa cup 40 ml / 3Tbsp 3 Tbsp

1Tbsp

Mix together, add to food , and marinate for12 hours.

Mediterran ean Yogurt Marin ade 250g Plain yogurt 14 g Garlic, chopped 5g Mint, thinly sl iced 5g Salt 1g Ci nn amon, grou nd 1g Coriander, ground

Vietnamese Marin ade As ian fish sa uce Rice vinegar Sugar Water Garl ic, chopped Thai chi li, chopped 1 cup l'h Tbsp 2Tbsp 114 tsp 'h tsp Y2 tSp

130g 95g 60g 55g 5g 3g

100 ml /ÂĽa cup 110 mL /Y2 cup 5Tbsp 55 ml/ 14 cup 2 tsp 1 tsp

Mix together, add to food, and marinate for 6 hours.

Mexican Marinade Orange juice Chipotle ch ilies in adobo, chopped Garlic, chopped Ci lantro, chopped Sa lt

300g 60g

300 ml/ 114 cups y, cup

25g 15g 6g

l4 cup 5Tbsp ,y, tsp

Mix together, add to food, and marinate for12 hours.

Barbecue Marinade 300 g Tomato juice 100 g App le cide r vin egar 50 g Da rk brown sugar 5g Piment6n dulce (s moked, sweet paprika) 2g Mustard powder

300 ml/ 114 cups 120 mL /Y2 cup 5 Tbsp 2Y' tsp ltsp

Mix together, add to food, and marinate for12 hours.

134

MODERNIST CUISINE AT HOME

5 SPICE MIXES Spices are so integra l to people's e njoyme nt of food that the trade in them was, for centuries, o ne of the driving forces that brought different cultures into co ntact. Even in the globa lized world of the 21st ce ntury, certain sp ice mixes are still emblems of cultural heritage. Th e set of fl avo rs that a re unique to a region or cultural group is usuall y the product of spice mi xtures that evolved a long with that comm unity and were passed down by culinary traditions. The pa rticular blend of a curry powder, for example, can not only differe ntiate a dish as being Indian rather than Thai but a lso can id entify the part of India in w hich it originated. The sa me can be said of dry rubs used in American barbecue, and

Spice traders a lte red traditional patte rns of spi ce use by co nnecting sp ice "islands" with the large r world . Cooks everywhere th e n took the id ea of co mbining tastes a nd sme lls, and ran w ith it. Th e res ulting me langes include Chinese five-spice powder, American Southern-fried chicke n spices, Mexican mole, and the famously co mplicated ras el hanout of the Middle East a nd North Africa, among innum e rable others. When making spice mixtures, the goal is always to arrive at a balance of tastes and aro mas th at co mplement the dish to w hich it will be add ed. The six exa mpl es we prese nt here illustrate several ways to process spices as yo u perfect your own "secret" ble nds.

of adobo spice mixes in Spanish-influenced cuisines.

MCCURRY POWDER YIELD:

70g/~ cup

TIM E ES TIM ATE:

30 minutes overall keeps for 2 weeks in an airtight container and up to 2 months when vacuum sealed and refrigerated easy coffee grinder, mace blades, Kashmiri chilies (optional), green cardamom pods Mughal Curry Sauce (see page 104), Crispy Skinless Chicken Wings (see page 254)

STORAGE NOTES: LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY: SPEC IAL REQUIREMENTS: USED IN:

Toasting spices before you grind them dramatically improves the flavor, but it is very easy to scorch the spices if you toast them in a dry saute pan over a low burner, so use the oven instead. A coffee mill works as well as a spice grinder, but dedicate a sepINGREDIENT Cumin seeds Coria nd er seeds Black peppercorns Cinnamon stick, broken into small pi eces Cloves Kashmiri chili es (optional) Mace blades, broken into sma ll pieces Green carda mom seeds

WEIGHT

VOLUME Y., cup

also prevents clumping and absorption of m oisture.

SCALING

PROCEDURE

CD 0

30g 20g 20g 2.7 g

2V> Tbsp 1 stick

100% 67% 67% 9%

2g 1g 1g

ltsp 21arge V> tsp

6.7% 3.3% 3.3%

O.Sg

from about 6 pods

1.7%

Vl cup

arate grinder for spices to avoid coffee-flavored spices and v ice versa. If you have a vacuum sealer, consider vacuum sealing all your spice blends, which both protects the aromas and volatile oils and

ÂŽ

VA RI AT ION: Vindaloo Spice Mix Doubl e the amount of black peppercorns. This variation is used in the Pork Vindaloo with Naan recipe (see variation on page 221).

Pre heat the oven to 170 ' C/ 340 ' F. Combine, an d toast in the oven on a baking sheet until golden and aromatic, 8-10 minutes. Grind to a fine powder in a coffee grind e r.

If Kashmiri chilies are unavai lable, substitute 2 g / 1 tsp of sweet paprika at step 3. Powdered paprika will burn if toasted.

SPICE MIXES

135

CHAAT MASALA YIELD:

60g/~cup

TIME ESTIMATE:

20 minutes overall keeps for 2 weeks in an airtight container and up to 2 months when vacuum sealed and refrigerated easy coffee grinder, ajowan seeds, amchoor, anardana, kala namak (optional) Caramelized Carrot Soup (see page 178), Sous Vide Lobster Tail (see variation on page 288)

STORAGE NOTES: LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY: SPECIAL REQUIREMENTS : GOES WELL WITH:

Chaat masala is a quintessential spice blend oflndia, where it is sometimes referred to as a summer sprinkle or a comforting winter dust. A sprinkle of this pungent combination of dried mango and spices pairs perfectly with steamed potatoes, grilled chicken or vegetables, baked root vegetables, and deep-fried cauliflower. Also, try

dusting it over fresh pineapple, mango, or cucumber. If you can't find Indian black salt (kala namak), which has a very strong smell and is actually purplish in color, substitute kosher salt for it.

INGREDIENT

WEIGHT

VOLUME

SCALING

PROCEDURE

Coriander seeds

19 g

YJ cup

76%

Preheat th e oven to 170 •c / 340 •F.

Cumin seeds

15g

2Tbsp

60%

Ajowan seeds

1Y2 tsp

12%

Combine, and toast in the oven on a baking sheet until go ld en and aromatic, 8- 10 minutes.

Black peppercorns

ltsp

12%

Dried chilies

Y2 tSp

Indian black salt

25g

2Y, Tbsp

100%

Combine with the toasted spices.

Dried green mango powder (amchoor)

11,4 tsp

32%

@) Grind the mixture to a powder in a coffee grind er.

Dried pomegranate seeds (anardana)

11,4 tsp

16%

1 36

Pass the powder through a fine sieve.

MOD ERNIS T CUISINE AT HOME

5 FISH SPICE MIX YIELD: TIME ESTIMATE: STORAGE NOTES: LEVEL OF DIFFI CULTY: SPECIAL REQ UIREMEN TS: USED IN:

120g/ 1 cup 30 minutes overall keeps for 2 weeks in an airtight container and up to 2 months when vacuum sealed and refrigerated easy coffee grinder or mortar and pestle, dried chamomile blossoms, white poppy seeds (optional), tapioca maltodextrin (N-Zorbit brand, optional) Fragrant So us Vide Salmon (see page 276)

This tremendously versatile spice mixture is delicious on sole, turbot,

any simple chicken preparation. The tapioca maltodextrin absorbs

or any similar fish simply panfried in butter. It is also wonderful on

the oils from the nuts and spices and keeps the powder from clump-

roasted winter squash, buttered potatoes, steamed asparagus, a nd

ing. You can find whole chamomile blossoms for sale in tea shops.

INGREDIENT

WEIGHT

VOLUME

SCALING

PROCEDURE

Hazelnuts

50 g

y, cup

100%

<D 0

Sesame seeds

44g

88%

Toast the sesame seeds in a dry fry ing pan over me dium-high heat, stirring co nstantl y, until they begin to pop, about3 minutes .

Coriander seeds

12g

24%

0 ®

Toast the coriander seeds in a dry frying pan over medium-high heat, stirring constantly, until they become golden brown and fragrant, abo ut 3 minutes. Crus h in a coffee grind e r or with a morta r and pestle.

2Y' Tbsp

Tapioca maltod extrin 12g (N-Zorbit brand), optional White poppy seeds (optional)

lOg

1 Tbsp

20%

Dried, ground ginger Salt Dri ed chamomile blosso ms

4g 4g 2.5g

2 tsp ltsp 2 Tbsp

8% 8% 5%

Preheat the oven to 175 •c / 350 •F. Roast th e hazelnuts until th e sk ins tu rn dark brown, 10-12 minutes. ® Rub the nu ts with a cloth to remove the sk ins . Discard th e skins . @) Cho p th e nuts.

Comb in e with the haze lnuts, sesa me seeds, and coriand e r seeds, and grind to a coarse powder in a coffee grinder or mortar and pestle. Work in batches if necessary.

Fragrant Sous Vide Salmon, see page 276

SPICE MIXES

1 37

AUTUMN SPICE MIX YIELD: TIME ES TIMATE: STORAGE NOTES: LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY: SPECIAL REQUIREMENTS: USED IN:

250 g/ 1% cups 22 minutes overall keeps for 2 weeks in an airtight container and up to 2 months when vacuum sealed and refrigerated easy coffee grinder_, honey powder, dried orange peel Gingerbread Crust (see variation on page 372)

Honey powder is available at health-food stores and some Asian or

make spectacular gingerbread, and makes for a delicious chai when

specialty food markets. A flavorful sugar, such as brown sugar or

stirred into tea.

palm sugar, can be used instead. This spice mixture can be used to INGREDIENT

WEIGHT

VOLUME

SCALING

PROCEDURE

Cinnamon stick, broken Star anise

3.3%

3.2 g 2.S g

2 sticks 2-3 pods 1'). tsp

1.3% 1%

0 Combin e, and toast in a dry frying pan, tossing and stirring ohen, until

1 tsp

® Co ol slightly, and grind to a fin e powd e r in a coffee grind e r.

Coriander se eds

1Y' tsp

0. 8% 0 .8%

Honey powder

240 g 12 g

1% cups 1 Tbsp

100%

3g 3g 1.5g 1.2 g

JY, tsp 1Y, tsp '). tsp y, tsp

Cloves Fenne l seeds

Salt Dried, ground ginger Nutmeg, grated Ground mace Dried orange peel

Preheat th e ove n to 170 "C/ 340 "F. go ld e n a nd a romati c, 8-10 minutes .

@) Pass through a fin e sieve. Mi x with th e toasted spi ce powde r.

5% 1.3% 1.3% 0. 6% 0.5%

CHILl SPICE MIX 260g/ 1 cup 10 minutes overall

YIELD : TIME ESTIMATE: STORAGE NOTES: LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY: SPEC IAL REQUIREMENTS : USED IN :

keeps for 2 weeks in an airtight container and up to 2 months when vacuum sealed and refrigerated easy coffee grinder, honey powder (optional) Crispy Skinless Chicken Wings (see page 254)

This mix is excellent when sprinkled on barbecued chicken. Make it unsweetened, without the honey powder, to spice up chili or to use as a dry rub on grilled meats. INGREDIENT

WEIGHT

VOLUME

SCALING

PROCEDURE

Garlic powder Pi menton dulce (smoked, sweet paprika)

SOg SOg

STbsp 7y, Tbsp

100% 100%

Combin e.

Cinnamon, ground Allspice, ground Black pe pper, ground Cumin, ground

12 g

2Tbsp

1Tbsp 1Tbsp 1 Tbsp

24% 16% 15%

Cayenne Dark cocoa powder

6.5g

Mix into th e spice powde r to adjust th e seasoning.

7.5g 7g 6g

Honey powder (optiona l) 88g Sa lt (optional) 29 g

13 8

14%

1 Tbsp 1 Tbsp

13% 12%

9Tbsp

176%

3 Tbsp

58%

MOD ERNIST CUI SIN E AT HOM E

GRILLING SPICE MIX Y I ELD: T IME ESTIMATE: STORAGE

OTES:

LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY: SPEC IAL REQUIREMENTS:

40g/ 0cup 10 minutes overall keeps for 2 weeks in an airtight container and up to 2 months when vacuum sealed and refrigerated easy coffee grinder, porcini powder, honey powder, smoked salt

This spice mix works wonders on grilled steaks. Use store-bought porcini powder, or make your own by grinding dried porcini

mushrooms in a coffee grinder. Smoked salt is available at specialty food stores.

I NGRED I ENT

WE IG HT

VOLUME

SCALING

PROCEDU RE

Sweet paprika

lOg

l Y2 Tbsp

100%

Combine.

Porcin i powder

lOg

l Y, Tbsp

100%

Grind in a coffee grinder.

Honey powder

lOg

1 Tbsp

100% 50%

Onion powder

lTbsp

Smoked salt

1\4 tsp

50%

Black pepper, ground

\4 tsp

10%

SPI CE MI XES

13 9

6 BREAKFAST EGGS Poached, scrambled, shirred, coddled, sunny-side up, over easy,

A better approach is to use a water bath, a thermometer, and an

deep-fried, hard-boiled, soft-boiled, baked ... in omelets and oeufs

understanding of the way the viscosity of the egg increases as its tem-

aIa coque, quiche and cocottes, flans and frittatas . .. there seems to

perature rises. Once you become familiar with the temperatures that

be no end to the delicious ways one can prepare eggs. We showcase

cause each state, you can deftly create any texture-from creamy to

only a few of them, but by applying the principles in this chapter,

custardy to fudge-like-every time, perfectly.

you can master any egg dish. We also love eggs because they represent an ideal way to com-

THE SCIENCE OF EGGS AS GELS

municate one of the most important ideas of Modernist cooking:

A cooked egg is a gel, in which water is trapped within a mesh of cross-

the beauty of cooking with precise temperature. The difference

linked proteins. You can transform a fluid, raw egg into a semisolid state either by heating it or by subjecting it to chemical agents, such as acids, alkalis, or minerals like salt and calciu m. Cooking and pickling whole eggs, and freezing egg yolks, all cause irreversible gelling-once the gel is set, the egg will never return to a fluid state. That's a fascinating, and useful, property. The linking ability of the proteins in eggs is so potentthatthey can bind together even when the egg is in powdered form or is mixed with lots of other ingredients. The gelling power of eggs is what holds together the constituents of a muffin batter, the flour granules in some pasta doughs, and the elements of a sweet dessert custard, a quiche, or a chawanmushi (a savory Japanese egg custard). It also helps to bind the ground meat in meatloaf and some sausages. The egg's versatility as a ge lling agent is unmatched by other ingredients in conventional cooki ng, a nd it provides a fun and flexible component for Modernist cooking as well.

in taste and texture between a runny yolk and a rubbery one is a consequence of a remarkably small difference in cooking temperature. The photos on the next pages illustrate the progression of a cooked egg from an almost raw, pasteurized state to a very firm, brittle, hard-cooked state. You can see that egg yolks start to coagulate when the temperature rises above 62 •c I 144 •p, and they become progressively firmer as they warm until they're finally hardboiled, at about 80 •c I 176 •p_ The traditional way to hard-boil an egg is to boil it for a specified amount of time. That works on average, but it's inconsistent because of the many variables at play, such as the size and starting temperature of the egg, as well as the volume of water in the pot.

HIGHLIGHTS

The best omelet we've made yet

Create a beautiful, stable foam by

Eggs are mostly water, and you can

has a very rich texture, is delicately

using a whipping siphon. Eggs foam so

reconstruct an egg by replacing that

cooked at 72 •c I 62 "F. One,fun recipe:

thin, and serves as a perfect platform

well because they are rich in proteins

water with any flavorful liquid. In our

serve perfectly round egg y olks with

for flavorful fillings. see page 146

An egg yolk becomes spherical when

that stabilize the bubbles, and the

Striped Mushroom Omelet, we start

a sauce made from the egg white. It's

nitrous oxide used to charge the siphon

with albumin powder (egg white with-

a Modernist version of deviled eggs.

dissolves easily into the fatty mixture

out the water), and then we add liquid

of cream, butter, and yolk.

in the form of a mushroom puree.

see page 144

see page 148

see page 152

FURTHER READING IN MODER N IST CU ISIN E

Formingfoams with eggs: see pages 4-247_, 251, 255 Emulsions of eggs: see pages 4-226-229 How to make omelets in a combi oven: see page 4-95 Recipes for pickled and preserved eggs, including a "century" egg: see pages 4-82-83 Plated-dish recipes for eggs: see pages 5-209-221

141

FRENCH SCRAMBLED EGGS YIELD: TIME ESTIMATE: STORAGE NOTES: LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY: SPECIAL REQUIREMENTS: GOES WELL WITH:

four to six servings (380 g) 45 minutes overall, including 10 minutes ofpreparation and 35 minutes unattended serve immediately after dispensingfrom the siphon easy sous vide setup, 500 mL whipping siphon, two cartridges of nitrous oxide Steamed Herb Omelet (see page 146), Sous Vide Steak (see page 194)

This ultrarich dish is one of our favorites. We create a texture as smooth as custard, having no lumps whatsoever, by using an immersion blender. Then we aerate the eggs in a whipping siphon to make

nonaerated eggs; see the variation below. Serve the eggs as a breakfast entree, as a filling for omelets, or as a side dish for the ultimate steak and eggs.

them foamy and light. We also love the pudding-like texture of

INGREDIENT

WEIGHT

VOLUME

SCALING

PROCEDURE

Eggs Egg yolks Unsalted butter, melted Whole milk Salt

200g 60g 60g 60g 4g

41arge 3-4yolks 65 mL / 4Y2 Tbsp 60 mL / Y.. cup ltsp

100% 30% 30% 30% 2%

(j) Preheat a water bath to 72 "C/ 162 "F. 0 Mix all ingr~dients, and blend until smooth by using a whisk or immersion blender.

Place the mixture in a zip-top bag, remove as much air as possible from the bag by using the water-disp lacement method (see page 58), and sea l it. @ Cook sous vide until just set, about 35 minutes. ® Transfer to a bowl, and puree until smooth using an immersion blender. ® Pour into a whipp ing siphon, charge with two cartridges of nitrous oxide, and dispense.

TO MAKE AHEAD After step 5, place cooked eggs in a bag or siphon, and hold in a 55 "C/ 131 "Fwater bath for up to 1 hour. Continue with step 6 to serve.

VARIATIONS Scrambled Egg Pudding Prefer a velvety, pudding-like texture that's not aerated? In crease the temperature in step 1 to 74 "C/ 165 "F, and decrease the cook ing time in step 4 to about 30 minutes. This yields a firmer texture. After step 5, spoon the pureed eggs from the bowl, and serve immediately.

144

Olive Oil Scrambled Eggs In crease the egg yolks to a total of 80 g/ 5-6 yolks, and replace the butter with extra-virgin olive oil. We use this as a filling in our Espagnole omelet (see variation on the next page).

MODERNI ST CUISINE AT HOME

Mini Egg Cups Fill the bottom of warm ramekins with Shiitake Marmalade (see page 151). Top with the scrambled-egg foam. Garnish with grated cheddar or Gruyere. This makes a terrific amuse-bouche or snack for special guests.

STEAMED HERB OMELET YIELD: TIME ESTIMATE: STORAGE NOTES : LEVEL OF D IFFICULTY: SPEC IAL REQUIREMENTS:

four appetizer-size omelets (40 g each plus filling) 40 minutes overall omelet sheets keep for 2 days when refrigerated; serve assembled omelets immediately moderate nonstickfryingpan (20 em / 8 in) with metal lid or oven-safe glass lid

We think this is the perfect om elet: it is tender a nd delicate, with a pure, fresh egg flavor. Our goal here is to stea m the omelet at a precise temperature. A combi oven or w ater-vapor oven is made to do exactly that, but you can achieve similar results in a home oven. The trick is to heat the omelet evenly while avoiding evaporation and

browning. The b est w ay we've found to do that is to cook it in a skillet topped with a hot, m etal lid on an oven rack that is perfectly level. Although this omelet recipe is made only w ith eggs and cream, modern versions almost always contain a filling of some kind; some of our favorite combinations are listed on the previous page.

INGREDIENT

WEIGHT

VOLUME

SCALING

PROCEDURE

Eggs, blend ed Heavy crea m Egg yolk Salt

150 g 15g 12g 2g

3-4 eggs 15 mL / 1 Tbsp 1 yo lk

100% 10% 8% 1.3%

Cook ing spray

as needed

Scrambled Egg Pudding, warm (optional)

200 g

Y2tsp

Pre heat the oven to 175 "C/ 350 "F. O nce the oven is hot, place th e ove nsafe lid to a no nstick, 20 cm/ 8 in frying pan in the ove n to pre heat fo r a bout 15 minutes. Bl e nd th oroughl y by using a whi sk or imme rsio n bl ende r. Allow any foa m to diss ipate, o r use a spoon to sk im it fro m the surface.

Spray the botto m of th e frying pan with a thin film of cooking spray. @) Po ur o ne qua rter of th e egg mixture into th e frying pa n. ® Place th e hot li d on the pan, and put it in the ove n. Cook until th e eggs set, abo ut 6 minu tes. ® While th e eggs cook, line a baking sheet with parchm e nt pape r, a nd spray it with coo king spray. 0 Slide th e coo ked ome let o nto th e baking sheet. Leave th e lid in the ove n while yo u pre pare the next ome let. ® Repeat steps 3-7 three ti mes wi th the remaining egg mi xture. Afte r the first o ne, the o me lets will cook in the wa rm pa n in abo ut 3 minu tes. ® Cover th e o me lets o n the baking sheet with anoth e r sheet of sprayed parchm e nt, and place th e m in the ove n fo r lY2-21h minu tes to re heat. 133%

Y2cup

@ Divid e th e wa rm scra mble d eggs eve nly amo ng the ome let sheets.

@ Fo ld the edges of each ome let ca refully over th e fi lling.

see va riati on o n page 144

Chives, mince d

2 Tbsp

Pre heat th e oven to 175 "C/ 350 "F. When th e ove n reaches its set temperatu re, put th e lid of a nonst ick, 20 cm/ 8 in frying pa n into th e ove n to pre heat for abo ut1 5 minutes. Choose a lid that is ove n-safe and fits snugly on the pa n.

Ble nd th e who le eggs, crea m, yolks, and salt thoroughly by using a whisk or imm ers ion ble nd er. If a foa m rises on the surface, a llow it to diss ipate, or skim it off with a spoo n.

Coat th e botto m of the pan wi th a thin film of coo king spray.

146

@ Sprinkl e with the chi ves, and se rve imme diately.

Po ur on e qu arter of the egg mixture into th e frying pan. It will spread into a th in layer.

MO DERNIST CUISI NE AT HOM E

Cove r the pan with th e hot lid, a nd put th e covere d pan into th e ove n. Cook th e eggs until they set, abo ut 6 minu tes. The pan should sit leve l o n the ove n rack. Use pi eces offo ld ed al uminum fo il as shims if need ed to ensure a fl at, eve nl y cooked om e let.

Whil e th e eggs a re ba king, lin e a baking sheet with pa rchm e nt pape r, and spray th e pape r with a light coating of coo king spray.

Di vide th e warm scramb led eggs, if using, evenly among the omelet sh eets. You ca n add o r substitute any other fi lling at this point. Sprinkle th e fi lling

Slide the cooked omelet fro m the pan o nto the baking sheet. Return the li d to the ove n w hile yo u p repare the next o melet.

Repeat steps 3-7 three tim es w ith th e remaini ng egg mix tu re. O nce the pan is warm fro m coo king the fi rst ome let, th e remaining omelets w ill require just 3 minu tes o r so each to cook.

Cover th e omelets o n th e bak ing sheet w ith anoth er sheet of pa rchment paper coated w ith cook ing spray, and place th em into the oven to reheat for 10 -2 0 minu tes.

w ith the chi ves.

Use a th in-edged spatu la to fo ld the edges of each o melet ca reful ly over its filling.

Sprin kle w ith th e chives, and se rve th e o melets immediately.

TO MAKE A H EAD After step 8, cove r th e baking sheet wi th o il rubb ed pl as tic w rap, and sto re it in th e refrigerator for up to 2 days. W hen yo u're rea dy to se rve th e o melets, p reheat the ove n to 175 â&#x20AC;˘c; 350 "F. Remove the plast ic wra p fro m th e bak ing sheet, and re heat th e o melets for 10 -20 minutes. Con tinu e w ith step 10.

ENTREE-SIZE OMELET We se rve these o melets as an ap petize r, w hi ch is how we get away w ith using so few eggs to feed fo ur peo ple. To make an o melet large eno ugh to se rve as an entree, use all o f the egg mi xture in on e 30 cm / 12 in pan. Cook 3-4 minutes longe r, until ju st set.

IF YOU HAVE A COMB I OVEN If yo u have access to a profess io nal or home combi ove n, set the ove n to full stea m at 82 â&#x20AC;˘c I 180 "F. Fo ll ow steps 2-4, cove r th e frying pan with pl as ti c w rap, and then cook the o melet for 10 minu tes . Continu e with ste p 10.

BREA KFA ST EGGS

147

STRIPED MUSHROOM OMELET YIELD: TIME ESTIMATE: STORAGE NOTES: LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY: SPECIAL REQUIREMENTS:

four appetizer-size omelets (140 g each) 1 hour overall omelet sheets keep for 2 days when refrigerated; serve assembled omelets immediately advanced (level of effort) two silicone discs, 15 em I 6 in across, cut from a larger mat; 20 em I 8 in nonstick frying pan with metal lid or oven-safe glass lid; pastry comb with 3 mm I~ in teeth; albumin powder (powdered egg whites)

Once you get the hang of making these omelets, you won't want to

must lie flat and seal tightly in the base of your nonstick frying pan.

serve your special guests anything else. The result is both beautiful

Make sure the mat is silicone only; do not cut mats that contain

and delicious; we promise it is worth the effort. The silicone disc

fiberglass, such as Silpat brand mats.

INGREDIENT

WEIGHT

VOLUME

SCALING

PROCEDURE

Eggs, blended Heavy cream Egg yolk, blended

150 g 15g 12 g

100%

0 Preheat the oven to 175 oc / 350 °F. Once the oven is hot, place the oven-

Salt

3-4 eggs 15 mL / 1 Tbsp 1 yo lk y, tsp

1.3%

Mushroom Puree

100g

:Y. cup

67%

40g

3 yo lks

lOg 8.8g

10 mL / 2 tsp 5 tsp y, tsp

27% 7%

10% 8%

see page 150

Egg yolks Heavy cream Albumin powder Salt Neutral-tasting oil or cooking spray

0 ® 0 ® 0

5.8% 1.3%

® @ @ @

200 g

2cups

133%

Whisk together thoroughly to create the mushroom base. Spread one quarter ofthe mushroom base onto a round sil icon e mat in a layer 2 mm / '/1• in thick. Pull a pastry comb through the mushroom base to create even lines across the mat.

striped silicone disc into the pan. Pour one quarter of the omelet base ove r the back of a spatula or large spoon and onto the lines of mushroom base. Place the hot lid on the pan, and bake the omelet sheet in the oven until the egg sets, about 6 minutes. While one sheet is baking, repeat steps 5 and 6 to prepare strips of mushroom base on a second, cool si licone disc. Remove the pan from the oven, lift out the sili cone disc, and cool the cooked ome let sheet slightly. Peel the omelet sheet carefu lly from the si li cone, and transfer it to the prepared baking sheet. Repeat steps 7-12 three times with the remaining ingredients; skip step 10 the last time. After the first omelet sheet, the remaining omelet sheets will cook in the warm pan in about 3 minutes.

@ Top the omelet sheets with a second piece of sp rayed parchment.

Reheat in a 175 oc / 350 °Foven for1Y2-2'/2 minutes .

see page 144

Shiitake Marmalade, warmed

Blend thoroughly by using a whisk or imm ersion blender. Allow any foam that appears to dissipate, or use a spoon to skim it from the su rface.

0 Coat the pan with a thin layer of oil, and carefu lly place the mushroom-

as needed

French Scrambled Eggs, warmed

safe lid of a 20 cm / 8 in nonstick frying pan in the oven to preheat for about15 minutes. Line a baking sheet with parchment, and spray it with cooking spray.

@ Lay the omelet sheets stripe-side down, and divide the French

as needed

scramb led eggs and sh iitake marmalade even ly among them. @ Fold the edges of the omelet sheets careful ly over their fillings, and

see page 151

brush the omelets with clarified butter. Serve immediately.

Clarified, unsalted butter as needed see page 119

Preheat the oven to 175 °C/ 350 °F. Once the oven reaches its set temperature, place the oven-safe lid of a 20 cm / 8 in nonstick frying pan into the oven to preheat for about15 minutes.

Blend the whole eggs, cream, yo lks, and salt thoroughly; use a whisk or immersion blender. If foam rises on the surface, allow it to dissipate, or use a spoon to skim it off. This is the ome let base.

Line a baking sheet with parchment paper, and spray it with cook ing spray.

Whisk together the mushroom puree, yo lks, cream, album in powder, and sa lt thoroughly to make the mushroom base.

148

MO DE RN IST CUI SINE AT HOME

TO MAKE A HEAD After step 12, cover the baking sheet with plastic wrap, and refrigerate the omelet sheets for up to 2 days. To reheat, remove the plastic, a nd warm in a 175 °C/ 350 °F oven for1Y2 - 2Y, minutes.

Spread one quarter of the mushroom base onto a round silicone mat to form an even

layer 2 mm /Y16 in th ick. We use an offset spatu la to do this.

Pull a pastry comb having3 mm /Ys in teeth through the mushroom mixture to create straight, parallel lines across the mat. You

Rub or spray a thin layer of oil onto the pan, and carefu lly place the sil icone disc with the stripes of mushroom base into the pan. The

may want to stabi lize the silicone mat by

oil shou ld create an airtight sea l between

using double-sided tape to stick it to the counter-just make sure to remove the tape

the si li cone mat and the pan, thus preventing any egg from seeping under.

before cooking. If the lines are not straight,

Pour one quarter of the omelet base over

simply scrape off the mushroom mixture, remake the layer, and try again.

the back of a spoon to flood gently over the mushroom base. The spoon helps prevent the flow from smearing th e lin es.

Cover the pan with the hot lid, place it in the oven, and bake until the egg sets, about 6 minutes. The pan should sit level on th e oven rack; use folded pieces of aluminum foil as shims, if needed, to ensure that th e omelet is flat and cooks even ly.

10 11

While one sheet is baking, repeat steps 5 and 6 to prepare strips of mushroom base on a second, cool silicone disc.

Remove the pan from the oven, lift out the silicone disc, and cool the omelet

Peel the omelet sheet from the mat, and transfer it to the prepared baking sheet.

Repeat steps 7-12 three times with the remaining ingredients; skip step 10 the

sheet slightly.

last time. Do not stack the omelets. After the first omelet sheet has cooked, the remaining three ome let sheets will cook in the warm pan in about 3 minutes.

Top the omelet sheets with another piece of sprayed parchment. Place the baking sheet in the oven forl'/:z-2Y' minutes to reh eat all of the omelets at once .

Lay the omelet sheets stripe-s id e down, and divide the French scramb led eggs and shiitake marmalade among them.

16 BREA KFAST EGGS

Fold the edges of the omelet sheets over their fillings, flip them seam-side down, and brush them with clarified butter.

149

MUSHROOM PUREE 200g/?lscup 45 minutes overall keeps for 3 days when refrigerated or up to 1 month when frozen easy

YIELD: TIME ESTIMATE: STORAGE NOTES: LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY:

This puree is versatile, having many uses in addition to making

year-round, but we substitute other varieties as they come into

omelets. We like to serve it as a garnish for poached fish or chicken;

season. Criminis, morels, chanterelles, and porcinis make flavorful

you can also transform it into a simple, yet intense, cream of mush-

substitutes for the shiitakes. Black trumpets are preferable to porto-

room soup (see variation below).

hellos when you can find them. If you like the flavor of truffle oil,

Shiitake and portobello mushrooms are generally easy to find INGREDIENT

WEIGHT

Shiitake mushroom caps, 250 g thinly sliced Unsalted butter 30 g

add a few drops at step 4.

VOLUME

SCALING

PROCEDURE

4YJ cups

100%

3Tbsp

12%

Y. cup / 2 sha llots

Shallots, minced Porto bello mushroom gills, spooned from the cap

50 g 20g

from 1large

20% 8%

Mushroom jus or water

165 g

165 ml/ :Y.. cup

66%

see page 91

0 Add, and cook over low heat, st irring occasionally, until the shallots are very tender, about 20 minutes. The portobello gill s will darken the mixture.

ÂŽ

Stir in, increase to medium heat, and simmerfor1 minute.

0 Puree in a blender until smooth.

ÂŽ Salt

Saute the mushrooms until golden brown, abo ut 10 minutes.

1.2%

Pass through a fine sieve.

@ Season the

and serve it warm .

VARIATION: Cream of Mushroom Soup Mushroom Puree 200 g Ys cup from recipe above

Mushroom jus

165g

165 mL / o/s cup

lOOg

110 mL / Y2 cup ltsp

see page 91

Heavy cream Whitemiso Salt Brioche croutons, cut into small cubes, and fried in bacon fat

5g to taste as needed

Stir together the puree, jus, cream, and miso in a pot, and bring to a simmer. Season with salt, and garn ish with brioche croutons or sauteed mushrooms.

150

MO DERNI ST CUI SINE AT HOM E

6 SHIITAKE MARMALADE 300g/ 1 cup 40 minutes overall keeps for 3 days when refrigerated or up to 1 month when fro zen easy

YIELD: TIME ESTIMATE: STORAGE NOTES: LEVEL OF DIFFI CU LT Y:

This condiment transforms the intense umami flavor of caramelized shiitake mushrooms into an unctuous marmalade. Fold in some grain mustard, and serve it with steak, or spread the marmalade on

substitute seasonal mushrooms such as criminis, morels, chanterelles, a nd porcinis. For a different flavor, replace the soy sauce with our rich Brown Chicken Jus (see page 92).

toast topped with grilled sweet onions. When they are available, INGREDIENT

WEIGHT

VOLUME

SCALING

PROCEDURE

Shiitake mushroom caps

300 g

SYa cups

100%

Pu lse the mushrooms in a food processor until they are minced but not pureed.

Unsalted butter

60 g

4 Tbsp

20%

0 速

Melt in a fryi ng pan, and add the mushrooms. Cook over medium-low heat, sti rring occas ionally, until lightly brown ed and dry, 15-18 minutes.

Shallots, minced

60g

YJ cup

20%

@) Stir into th e mushroom mixture, a nd coo k until te nd er, 8-10 minutes .

Wate r Soy sauce Honey

100 g 36g 4g

100 ml /:Y. cup 30 mL/ 2 Tbsp ltsp

33% 12% 1.3%

速速

Add to the pan, a nd stir to co mbin e. Simmer until thick but still fluid , abo ut 1 minute.

Chives, thinly sli ced Tarragon, min ced

lOg Sg

14 cup Y, Tbsp

3.3% 1.7%

Fold in just before serving.

Salt

to taste

速

Season the ma rm alade, a nd serve it warm.

The mushrooms should be processed just until they are minced. Use the pulse feature to ensure that the mushrooms do not become a paste or puree.

When the mushrooms are brown and the shallots are tender but not brown, it is time to add the water, soy sauce, and honey.

Savory marmalades Th e co ncept of a savo ry marmalade may see m odd at firs t, bu t ma rm alade is an excell e nt fo rm for a fl avorful wa rm condim ent. Try ma king o ne with just min ced onions and shall ots seasoned ge ne rously with thyme and black pe pper. You ca n ma ke a ma rma lade of mince d baco n and appl e by adding a bit of reduced apple juice o r mapl e syrup to se rve as a bind e r.

You can refrigerate the marmalade after step 6. When you are ready to serve it, reheat it in a pan, fold in the chives and tarragon, and season it with salt.

EGGS SUNNY-SIDE UP YIELD: TIME ESTIMATE: STORAGE NOTES: LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY: SPECIAL REQUIREMENTS:

four servings (400 g/ 4 eggs) 1 ~ hours overall, including 15 minutes ofpreparation and 50 minutes unattended egg whites keep for 1 day when refrigerated moderate so us vide setup,four small nonstick frying pans (10-12 em I 4-5 in), foil covers cut to fit frying pans We love the pudding-like consistency of a yolk cooked at 67 'C I

Cooking an egg sunny-side up to perfection poses an inherent problem: the yolk and the white reach their ideal textures at

153 'F. For a more traditional runny yolk, cook it instead at 62 'C I

different temperatures. Our solution is to cook the yolk separately from the white and to then reassemble the two parts just before serving. That way, the yolk is like jam and the white is still

this temperature, and you might lose one. Raise the temperature to 70 ' C I 158 ' F to make a perfectly spherical yolk having a fudge-like

buttery.

consistency. It's up to you.

144 ' F, but cook an extra egg or two, because yolks are very fragile at

INGRED IENT

WEIGHT

VOLUME

SCALING

PROCEDURE

Eggs

200 g

4-5 large

67%

0 ®

Pre heat a water bath to 67 ' C/ 153 ' F, and pre heat the oven to 160 ' C/ 320 ' F. Cut four foil lids just slightly larger in diameter than the rim s of four10 -12 em/ 4- 5 in non stick frying pans. Cook th e whole eggs so us vide for 40 minutes. Shell the eggs, and carefu lly clean off the whites to isolate the yolks .

150 g

160 mL /o/a cup

50%

@) Keep the egg yolks warm for up to 1 hour, if needed, by holding them in a rigid conta in er that is filled with oi l or butter and th en placed in a 60 ' C/ 140 ' Fwater bath.

Egg white

300g

100%

Heavy cream Salt

90g 3g

lYJ cups / 10 whites 100 mL /Ya cup 'l4 tsp

Cooking spray

as nee ded

Neutral-tasting oil or clarified, unsalte d butter (optional) see page 119

Blend by using a whisk or imm e rsion ble nder, and th en stra in. Allow any surface foam to dissipate, or skim it from the surface.

30% 1%

Coat the four pans with a thin film of coo king spray. Pl ace one quarter of the egg white mixture into each of the pans. Cover the pa ns with the foil lids. ® Pl ace the pans in the oven, and bake until the egg whites are just set, about 12 minutes. @ Slide the cooked egg whites gently onto individual plates. @ Scoop a small divot out of each egg white to hold the yo lk.

0 ®

Brown butter, warm

30g

30 mL /2 Tbsp

10%

see page 11 9

Preheat a water bath to 67 ' C/ 153 ' F, and preheat th e oven to 160 ' C/ 320 ' F. Cut four foil lids just slightly large r in diameter than the rims of four10 -12 em/ 4-5 in nonstick frying pans.

@ Place an egg yolk in each divot. @ Drizzle the brown butter over th e eggs, and serve them immed iately.

Cook the whole eggs so us vide for 40 minutes.

TO MAKE AHEAD The egg whites ca n be mad e up to 24 hours in adva nce. As the egg whites bake in step 9, lay a piece of parchment paper in a baking sheet, and spray it with cooki ng oil. Arrange the cooked whites on it, and cover them with another sheet of sprayed parchment paper. Cover the baking sheet with plastic wrap, and refrigerate it. To reheat the egg whites, remove the plastic, and warm th em in a 135 ' C/ 275 ' Foven for 5-6 minutes. Tim e th e cook in g of the yolks accordingly.

each egg, and clean off th e whites to isolate the perfectly cooked yolk. Dip or rinse the yolk 3 Shell in water to clean it. Be very gentle with the yolk: if yo u puncture the membrane, it will burst.

152

MODE RNIST CUI SI NE AT HOME

VARIATION: Deviled Eggs For a mod ern take on deviled eggs, whip the egg whites with vinegar, oil, mustard, and herbs to make a vinaigrette. Serve it as a dressing for the cooked whole yolks.

6 4

Keep the egg yo lks warm for up to 1 hour, if needed, by holding them in a rigid conta in er that is filled w ith neutral-tasting oi l or clarified butter and then placed in a 60 â&#x20AC;˘c; 140 â&#x20AC;˘r water bath. This technique prevents a skin from forming over the yo lk.

Blend the egg w hites, c ream, and sa lt, and then strain the mixture. Skim off any foam that forms on the surface, or allow it to dissipate on its own .

Spray a thin coat of cooking spray over the bottom of the four pans.

Cover the pans w ith the foil lids. Don't let the foil wrap und er the bottom.

Use a ring cutter o r a spoon to scoop a small divot from each egg wh ite.

Place one drained, warm egg yo lk in each divot.

Place the pans in the oven, and bake until the eggs are just set, about 12 minutes. The pans shou ld be leve l on the oven rack. Use fo ld ed pieces of alum inum foil as shims, if needed, so that the white is eve n in th ickness.

Pour one quarter of the egg white mixture into each of th e pans.

Slide the cooked egg whites carefully onto individual plates.

Drizzle warm brown butter over the eggs, and serve them immediately.

BREAKFAST EGGS

153

RASPBERRY GAZPACHO YIELD: TIME ESTIMATE : STORAGE NOTES: LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY: SPECIAL REQUIREMENTS:

Jour servings (450 g/2 cups) 1J4 hours overall, including 15 minutes ofpreparation and 1 hour unattended (optional) keeps for 2 days when refrigeratedj raspberry syrup keeps for up to 6 months when frozen easy sous vide setup, piquillo peppers, xanthan gum (optional)

Showcase the best fruit of the season with this refreshing twist

make equally delicious gazpachos when those fruits are at their peak.

on gazpacho. Ajo blanco, one of the original forms of gazpacho, was made from white bread, garlic, almonds, and grapes, rather than the tomatoes used most frequently today for the base.

The raspberry syrup made in the first four steps of this recipe is optional; you can use it to adjust the consistency and sweetness of the soup. The technique for extracting raspberry juice so us vide, however, works well with all berries. The resulting brightly colored,

David Kinch, chef at Manresa in Los Gatos, California, gave us the idea to use strawberries in place of tomatoes. We have extended this idea to raspberries. Cherries, peaches, nectarines, and apples

clear syrup can also be used to garnish a light dessert or stirred into sparkling white wine for a refreshing cocktail resembling a kir royale.

INGREDIENT

WEIGHT

VOLUME

SCALING

PROCEDURE

Raspberri es, rin sed (optional) Sugar (optional)

225 g

2 cups

80%

25 g

2 Tbsp

Ras pberries, rinsed Cucumber, peeled, seeded, and thinly sliced Piquillo pepp e rs (canned) Sweet onion, thinly sliced Extra-virgin olive oil White balsamic vinegar Balsamic vinegar Garlic clove, thinly sliced Xanthan gum (optional)

280g 70g

2\4 cups y, cup

100% 25%

57 g 57g 25g lOg 5g 2g 0.7g

y, cup y, cup

20% 20% 9% 3.6% 1.8% 0.7% 0.25%

Raspberry syrup, from above (optional) Lime juice Salt Blac k pepper

35g

30 mL / 2Tbsp 10 mL / 2% tsp 6 mL / lYs tsp y, tsp 35 mL / 2 Tbsp

® ®

Co mbine in a blender, and puree until smooth. Pass th e puree through a sieve.

0 Add the raspberry syrup (optional), season the soup, and serve it chilled.

to taste to taste to taste

If you are making the raspberry syrup (which is option al), preheat a water bath to 65 •c / 149 •F. If omitting the syrup, sk ip ahead to step 5.

15 6

13%

If making the optiona l raspberry syrup, preheat a water bath to 65 •c ; 149 •F. Otherwise, skip to step 5. 0 Toss together. Place in a zip-top bag, and use the water-displacement method (see page 58) to remove as much air as possible. Seal the bag. ® Cook so us vide for1 hour. @ Strain without press ing to obta in the raspberry syrup. Measure 35 g for use in step 7.

Toss the raspberries in sugar, and then use the water-displacement method to seal them together in a zip-top bag while excluding as much air as possible.

MODERNIST CU ISIN E AT HOME

3 Cook the raspberries so us vide for 1 hour.

Strain the cooked raspberries, without pressing, to make a clear, thin syru p. Measure 35 g for use in ste p 7. Use any extra syrup as a topping for yogurt or pancakes, or freeze it fo r up to 6 month s.

Pass th e puree thro ugh a sieve.

Combine the fresh raspberries, cucumb e r, peppers, onion, olive oil, vinegars, ga rlic, a nd xanthan gum (option al) in a blender, a nd puree until smooth.

Season th e soup with the rasp berry syrup (o ptional), lim e juice, sa lt, a nd pe ppe r. Add more syrup to thin the puree or to sweete n a ta rt soup. Add the lime juice to brighte n a sweet so up.

To serve the gazpacho, place several raspberries, amint leaf, and finely julienned basil in each bowl, and pour the chilled soup at tableside. You can drizzle a little olive oil or almond oil on top.

SALADS AND COLD SOUPS

1 57

FRUIT MINESTRONE YIELD: TIME ESTIMATE: STORAGE NOTES: LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY: SPECIAL REQUIREMENTS:

four servings (400 g/ 2 cups) 4 hours overall, including 1 hour ofpreparation and 3 hours unattended serve immediately advanced (complexity of timing and assembly) vacuum sealer with marinating attachment, juicer, malic acid

Like any good minestrone, this fruity dessert soup is best when made with ingredients at their seasonal peak. At our cooking lab, we make a very fancy version from cucumber sorbet, vacuum-infused fruits, and shards of berries that we freeze in liquid nitrogen and then shat-

can be made in advance and used in other ways. Serve the soup in chilled bowls, and pour the broth at the table. You can chill the minestrone even more by adding a scoop of a high-

ter. This recipe is less technically demanding, albeit one of the more complex in this book. Don't be intimidated by the number of steps;

quality, store-bought fruit sorbet such as lychee, raspberry, or passion fruit. If you don't have time to make the candied beans, use Chinese red beans cooked in syrup, which you can find at Asian markets or

it's easier to assemble than it looks, and many of the components

other specialty food stores.

INGREDIENT

WEIGHT

VOLUME

SCALING

PROCEDURE

For the candied beans: Water Sugar

1.5 kg 1 kg

1.5 L/ 6 y, cups

300% 200%

5Ya cups 1 cup

40%

3 cups

100%

Y., cup

10%

速 0 速速

200 g Cannellini bean s {canned), drain ed, rinsed, a nd cleaned of any skins or broken pieces

For the strawberry broth: 500 g Strawberries, washed and hulled

Co mbin e in a la rge pot, stir to dissolve full y, a nd th en slowly bring to a boil to make a syrup.

Place in a pot with 500 g of the syrup, and simme r ove r medium-low heat for 30 minutes. 0 Pour off th e sy rup, re pl ace with 500 g offres h syrup, and simme r th e bea ns fo r a nothe r 30 minutes. @ Re peat ste p 3 twice mo re fo r a tota l simm e ring tim e of about 2 hours. Th e bea ns sho uld turn translu ce nt and beco me fud ge- like. 速 Coo l the bea ns in the remaining syrup, a nd refri ge rate th em. Process through a juice r. Strain. Sti r into the strawberry juice until disso lved .

Sugar

50 g

Lime juice

to taste

For the infused rhubarb: Fresh red rhubarb

100 g

1la rge sta lk

20%

@ Peel th e skin from th e rhuba rb, and rese rve th e peelings. @ Slice the pee led rhubarb into 6 mm /Y., in pi eces.

Sugar Wate r Malic acid

100 g 100 g 2g

y, cup 100 mL/:Ya cup

20% 20% 0.4%

@ Combin e in a sma ll pot, stir to disso lve, and bring to a boil ove r medium high heat to make a syrup. @ Pour th e wa rm syrup over th e rhu ba rb sli ces a nd reserved rhubarb skins, and vacuum sea l togeth er in a rigid containe r (see page 53). @ Refrigerate until co ld, at least 1 ho ur. Dra in a nd disca rd th e skins. Th e syrup may be saved for anoth e r use.

For the cucumber rolls: English cucumber

150 g

11arge

30%

@ Slice le ngthwise, as thinly as poss ible, o n a ma nd olin e, to form evenly sized, recta ngula r sheets of cucum be r. Stop whe n yo u reach the seeds. @ Roll up th e sheets so that the gree n edges are exposed. Sto re th e ro lls, cove red, in th e refri ge rato r.

To assemble: Cucumbe r rolls, from above Candied cannellini beans, from above Infused rhubarb slices, from above Kumquats, sliced 24g Raspberries, halved 16g Blueberries, ha lved 4g Mint leaves Strawberry broth, from above

158

250 g

Season with th e lim e juice to ma ke a broth, and refrigerate it.

8-12 roll s

@ Arra nge two o r three cucumb er rolls in the ce nte r of four chilled bowls.

24 beans

@ Distribu te the beans, fr uit, rhuba rb, and mint leaves eve nly a mo ng the bowls.

8-12 slices 8 slices 8 be rries 8 berri es 16small

4.8% 3.2% 0.8%

260 mL / l Ya cups

50%

@ Se rve imme diate ly by pouring th e strawbe rry broth eve nly into th e bowl s at ta bl es id e.

MOD ERNIS T CUISIN E AT HOM E

Combine the sugar and water for the candied beans in a large pot, and stir to dissolve fully.

Then slowly bring the mixture to a boi l to form a syrup. Sugar crysta ls may form in

Pick through the beans to find and discard any broken pieces or sk in s, and then place them in a pot with 500 g ofthe syrup. Sim-

Pour the syrup off the bea ns, and replace with 500 g of fresh syrup. Simmer the bea ns for another 30 minutes.

mer ove r medium-low heat for 30 minutes.

the sy rup if the sugar is not fully dissolved before boiling.

Repeat step 3 two more times, for a total simm ering time of about 2 hours. The beans sho uld turn translucent and fudge -like. This is a variation on the technique used to make prized European sweets such as marron glace (candied chestn uts) and sugared fruits.

Use a jui ce r to extract juice from the strawberries.

seeds and extra pulp.

Stir t he sugar into the strained strawberry ju ice until it has dissolved.

Strain the jui ce with a fine sieve to remove

Coo l the beans in the remaining sy rup, and then refrigerate them .

Season the sweetened strawberry juice with lim e juice to taste, and then refrigerate the broth. You may need a littl e more or less suga r o r lim e juice, depending o n the sweetness of the berries.

Peel t he skin from the rhub arb. If your rhubarb is gree n or muddy-co lored, discard the sk ins; otherwise, save the reddish sk in for use in step 13: it adds a more intense color to the infused sl ices.

continued on the next page

SAL ADS AND CO LD SO UP S

15 9

Slice the peeled rhubarb into pieces 6 mm /Y., in long.

Combine the sugar, water, and malic acid in a small pot, sti r until dissolved, and then bring to a boil over medium-high heat to make a syrup.

Pl ace the sliced rhubarb and reserved sk ins in a rigid vacuum co ntain er, pour in the warm syrup, and vacuum seal it.

Refrigerate the rhubarb until co ld, at least 1 ho ur. Drain and discard the skins. You can reserve the syrup for another use.

Slice the cucumber lengthwise on a mandoline, using the thinn est setting ava ilabl e, to make 8-12 recta ngular

sheets of cucumber. Try to make the slices eve n in size, and avo id the seedy part of th e cucumber.

19 16 0

Lift the short edge of each cucumber sheet, and roll it up. The green edges sho uld be exposed. Store the sheets, covered, in the refrigerator.

Pour th e strawberry broth evenly into the bowls at tableside . We use a decorative pitcher for serving the broth .

When you are ready to assemb le the minestrone, chi ll four bowls, and then arrange two or three cucumber rolls in the center of each bowl.

Scatter the beans, fruit, rhubarb, and mint leaves even ly among the bowls in a decorative pattern. Tweezers are a handy tool for this step.

7 VARIATIONS Strawberry Panna Cotta At step 3 in the recipe for Raspberry Panna Cotta (see page 366), substitute strawberry juice for the raspberry puree. Serve with vacuum-compressed strawberries (see page 59), black peppercorns, and thyme.

Fruit Salad Combine sli ces of kumquats, blueberries, and raspbe rries with vacuum-compressed strawberries (see page 59), vacuum-infused rhubarb from steps 10-14, c uc umber rolls from steps 15-16, and mint leaves.

Strawberry juice with Green Apple Foam To make a refreshing summer beverage, top fresh strawberry juice (from steps 6- 9) with a foam made from fresh green app le juice. Pour the a pple juice into a whipping siphon, charge the siphon with two cartridges of nitrous oxide, shake vigorously for 5-10 seconds, and then dispense the app le foam into cups of juice (see page 19).

Cheese Course Serve Sti lton or goat cheese with vacuum -compressed strawberries (see page 59) and mint leaves. Optiona lly, add cand ied cannellini beans (from steps 2-5).

SAlADS AND COlD SOUPS

161

MODERNIST VICHYSSOISE YIELD: TIME EST IMATE: STORAGE NOTES: LEVEL OF D IFF ICU LTY: SPEC IAL REQU IREMENTS :

Jour servings (950 g/ 4 cups) 6 hours overall, including 5 hours unattended keeps for 3 days when refrigerated advanced (special ingredient) so us vide setup, vacuum sealer:, diastatic malt powder

The secret t o velvety-smooth potatoes is diastatic malt powder, an ingredient available from specialty baking- or brewing-supply

main liquid is pure leek jus, squeezed from whole, cooked leeks. Delicate strands of blanched leek and potato make an elegant and

stores, that converts potato starches into sugars and leaves no trace of gumminess or graininess. Excessive cream or milk is no longer needed; in fact, you can make this recipe with no cream at all. The

flavorful garnish.

If you don't acquire the enzyme-rich malt powder, pass the potatoes through a fine sieve after step 4, and then continue w ith step 10.

INGRED IENT

WE IG HT

VO LUME

SCALING

PROCEDURE

Water

1 kg

Yukon Go ld potatoes, pee led a nd cut into 2.5 cm / 1 in p ieces

SOOg

1 L/ 4',4 cups 32/J cups

200% 100%

CD 0 ®

Sa lt Sugar

15g lOg

5 tsp 2 tsp

3% 2%

Diastatic ma lt powder 5g (King Arthur Flour bra nd)

Preheat a water bath to 52 "C/ 126 "F. Place in a large pot, and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat, and simmer the potatoes unti l very tender, 30-40 minutes. @ Drain.

® ® 0

Stir into the cooked potatoes. Blend the warm potato mixture in a blender until smooth and sticky. Place in a zip-top bag. Use the water-displacement method (see page 58) to remove as much air as possible from the bag, and seal it. ® Cook sous vide for 30 minutes. ® Transfer the potato puree to a pot, and heat it to at least 75 "C/ 167"F. @ Cool the puree, and chill it over an ice bath or in the refrigerator. @ Increase the water bath temperature to 90 "C/ 194 "F. @ Vacuum sea l the leeks. @ Cook so us vide for 2 hours.

Leeks, white pa rts o nly, washed a nd ha lved lengthwise

1 kg

4- Sieeks

200%

Potato puree, fro m above Leek jus, from above Heavy cream Salt

400g 400g 100g 12g

1:Y., cups 400 mL /12/J cups 110 mL/Y2 cup 1 Tbsp

80% 80% 20% 2.4%

@ Stir together, cool, and refrigerate the soup until fully chilled.

Leeks, white parts on ly, finely julienned

25 g

Y, leek

@ Bring a pot of water to a boil, and arrange an ice-water bath alongside. @ Blanch the leeks in boiling water for 5 seconds, and then plunge them in the ice water, and drain.

1whole

@ Blanch the potatoes in boiling water for 1 minute, and then plunge them in the ice water, and dra in.

3Tbsp 6 mL / 1Y.. tsp

1.4% 1%

@ Toss together with the drained strips of leek and potato to make the garnish. Place a small amount of the garnish in four chilled bowls. @ Pour the chilled soup at tableside .

@ Squeeze in a strainer to collect as much jus as possible; d iscard the pulp.

25 g Yukon Gold potato, pee led a nd fi ne ly julie nned Chives, thi nl y sl iced Olive o il Sa lt Wh ite wine vinegar

7g 5g to taste to taste

Preheat a water bath to 52 "C/ 126 "F.

Bring the water, potatoes, sa lt, and sugar to a bo il in a large pot. Adding 1-2 g of sugar for eve ry 100 g of wate r helps preserve the natura l sweetness of t he potatoes.

162

MODERNIST CUISINE AT HOME

Reduce the heat, and simmer until the potatoes become very tender, 30-40 minutes . It may take longer if your tap water is rich in minera ls.

4 5

Drain the potatoes. Stir the diastatic ma lt powder into the warm potatoes.

Place the warm potato mixture in a blender-the more powerful, the better-and puree until it becomes smooth and sticky. Yo u may need to pause a few tim es to stir the potatoes and scrape the sid es of the blender.

Place the potato puree in a zip -top bag, remove as mu ch air as possible from the bag by using the water-disp lace ment metho d (see page 58), and seal it. Alte rnative ly, vacu um sea l the puree.

Transfer the puree to a pot, and heat it to at least 75 •c / 167 • F. This halts the e nzymatic reactio ns. Use a thermometer, and note that th e mixture may boil be low this

10 11

Coo l th e puree, and chill it.

Vacuum seal the halved leeks.

Cook the puree so us vide for 30 minutes.

Increase the temperature of the water bath to 90 · c / 194 •F.

temperature.

VAR IATIONS

Vichyssoise with Potato Peel Redu ctio n

Roasted-Potato Vichyssoise

For a more intense potato flavor, place the peels from the Yukon Gold potatoes in a pressure coo ke r, add eno ug h water to cover the m compl ete ly, a nd pressure-coo k at 1 bar / 15 psi for 30 minutes. Strain the liquid; discard the peels. Simmer the liquid ove r medium heat until its vo lum e is red uce by a bo ut half. At ste p 15, add the potato-pee l red uctio n to the puree alo ng w ith half of the crea m, leek jus, and sa lt.

To g ive the so up a roasted-potato flavor, make the Vichysso ise with Potato Peel Red uction variation at left, but add 25 g / 2Y, Tbsp of butter and 1 g / Y., tsp of baking soda to th e potato skins before yo u pressure-cook them.

Cook the leeks so us vid e for 2 hou rs. If the leeks flo at, use a n upturne d plate to keep them submerged. Yo ung, fres h lee ks yield the most juice.

continued on the next page

SALADS AND COLD SOUPS

16 3

Strain the liquid from the bag. Squeeze the lee ks by pressing them w ith a spoon to co ll ect as much jus as possible. Discard the pulp. Wearing gloves makes it easie r to ha ndl e the hot leeks.

Blanch the julienned leeks in boil ing water for 5 seconds, lift them o ut w ith a stra in er, plunge them into the ice -water bath, and then drain them.

Toss the bl a nc hed leeks a nd potatoes together w ith the chives, o li ve oil, sa lt, a nd vinegar in a sma ll bowl. Divide this ga rni sh amo ng four c hill ed bowl s.

20 164

Pour the c hill ed so up into the bowls at tableside .

Measure 400 g / 400 ml / 1'/J c ups of the leek jus and 400 g / 1'14 cups of the potato puree. Stir the jus, cream, and salt into the potato puree. Then coo l the soup in an ice bath, and refrigerate it until it is fully ch ill ed, at least 2 hours.

Bring a potofwaterto a boi l, a nd arrange an ice-water bath alo ngside.

Blanch the ju li enned potatoes for l minu te, plunge them in the ice water, and then drain them.

7 SWEET ONION SLAW YIELD: TIME ESTIMATE: STORAGE NOTES: LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY: SPECIAL REQUIREMENTS:

four servings (440 g/ 4 cups) 15 minutes ofpreparation serve immediately easy pickled red onion (see page 130), Modernist Mayonnaise (see page 108) Throw in some charred fresh corn kernels, chopped Sous Vide

Why does cabbage get to have all the fun? This twist on a classic coleslaw substitutes onions for the traditional red and green cabbage.

Chicken (see page 244), and slices of peeled cucumber to trans-

Use just about any kind of sweet onion-Vidalia, Maui, or Walla

form this slaw into a composed salad. Or use it on sandwiches,

Walla work just as well.

like our Modernist Meatloaf Sandwich (see page 214).

INGREDIENT

WEIGHT

VOLUME

SCALING

PROCEDURE

Sweet onion, julienned Sour cream Scallions, sliced Pickled red onion

280g 100g 56g 40g

3cups YJ cup Â¥3 cup 14 cup

100% 36% 20% 14%

CD 0

20g

4tsp

12g 4g 0.4g

1 Tbsp ltsp pinch

4% 1.4% 0.14%

Comb in e, and mix thoroughly. Serve immediately.

see page130

Modernist Mayonnaise see page108

Dijon mustard Salt Cayenne pepper

Combine the sweet onion, sour cream, scallions, pickled red onion, mayonnaise, mustard, salt, and cayenne pepper, and mix thoroughly.

Serve imm ediately.

GREEN SALAD WITH ROMAINE DRESSING four to six servings (436 g/ 6 cups) 1 hour overall, including 20 minutes ofpreparation and 40 minutes unattended dressing keeps for 2 days when refrigerated moderate sous vide setup

YIELD: TIME ESTIMATE: STORAGE NOTES : LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY: SPECIAL REQUIREMENTS:

This refreshing salad uses greens for the dressing as well as for the

vegetables to make it a main course. You can prepare the dressing

base. Serve it alongside grilled steak, or toss in shaved seasonal

(steps

INGREDIENT

WEIGHT

Eggs

VOLUME

SCALING

PROCEDURE

21arge

100%

CD 0 ® 0 ®

Romain e lettuce leaves (green parts only) Chives, cut into 5 cm / 2 in pieces Mint leaves

40g

1 cup

40%

15g

!IJ cup

15%

15 g

l Y, cups

15%

Tarragon leaves Basil leaves

5g 5g

14 cup 14 cup

5% 5%

Soft-cooked egg, from above Buttermilk Parmigiano-Reggiano, finely grated Anchovy fillets (packed in oil), drained

SOg SOg

50%

28g

50 mL/ 14 cup YJ cup

50% 28%

lOg

3 fillets

10%

Neutral-tasting o il

40g

45 mL / 3 Tbsp

40%

Le mon juice Salt

to taste to taste

Butter lettuce, trimmed, washed, and dri ed Dressing, from above

250g

2 heads

250%

106g

:Yacup

106%

80g

6 radishes

80%

Red radishes, very thinly sli ced

1-9) a day or two in ~dvance.

Preheat a water bath to 68 •c / 154 •F. Cook so us vide for 40 minutes. Cool, peel, and refrigerate.

Bring a pot of water to a boil, and arrange an ice bath a longside. Blanch the greens for l minute, and then plunge the leaves into the ice water immediately. Drain the cooked greens and herbs, and squeeze out the excess water.

Combine with the cooked greens in a blender, and puree until smooth.

® ®

Season the dressing, and store it refrigerated.

Add to the pureed greens gradually while blending until fu lly e mulsifi ed.

@ Pour half of the dressing into a salad bowl, add the lettuce, and toss. Drizzle the remaining dressing over the top. @ Scatter over the salad, and serve it imm ediate ly.

VARIATIONS Herb and Romaine Broth You can make a beautiful green broth from the cooked greens to se rve with fish or poached chicken. After step 6, blend the cooked lettuce and herbs with 300 g/ 300 mL / 114 cups of water o r vegetable stock. Alternative ly, make a puree by blending in just 25 g/ 25 mL / 5 tsp of liquid. Beet Salad Beets and other root vegetables can give a green salad more substance. Sea l baby yellow or red beets whole in a zip-top bag, cook them so us vide in an 85 •c / 185 • F water bath until tender, 15-20 minutes, and then coo l. Quarter or shave the cooked beets, season them with olive oil, sa lt, and pepper, and then toss them with the sa lad.

168

Blanching the greens for just 1minute makes them tender enough to puree but preserves their bright green color.

MO DER NI ST CUI SI NE AT HOM E

After you have blanched and chilled all of the greens, you can bundle them together in cheesecloth to press out any excess water before blending them with the egg, milk, cheese, and anchovies to form a smooth puree.

Substitute any fresh salad greens and herbs in this dressing. We like arugu la leaves as a substi tute for the romaine; it makes for a more assertive dressing that pairs well with roasted root vegetables .

SA LADS AND COLD SOUPS

WHILE YOU ' RE AT IT: Parmesan Crisp Give the sa lad so me crun ch by pai ring it w ith a Pa rm esa n crisp. Use a Micro pl ane to fin e ly g rate Parm esa n cheese over a ba king sheet to a de pth of a bo ut 3 mm / Vs in . Bake th e cheese in th e ove n at 175 â&#x20AC;˘c / 350 â&#x20AC;˘f until the cheese turns go ld e n brown, 10-15 minutes. l e t the sheet cool, a nd the n cut it into w hatever sha pes you like .

169

PRESSURE-COOKED QUINOA SALAD WITH CAULIFLOWER YIELD: TIME EST IMATE: STORAGE NOTES: LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY: SPEC IAL REQUIREMENTS:

six servings (955 g/ 6 cups) 45 minutes overall keeps for 3 days when refrigerated easy pressure cooker, macadamia nut oil, honey vinegar (optional)

Pressure-cooked quinoa is ready to serve in minutes. Slice off just

but you can use your favorite flavorful, sweet vinegar and any rich

the tender tips of the cauliflower florets so that they fall apart into

nut oil instead. The cauliflower florets and stems left over after

t iny, grain-like pieces. We add honey vinegar and macadamia oil,

trimming can be used to make a soup or puree (see page 180).

INGREDIENT

WEIGHT

VOLUME

SCALING

PROCEDURE

Water

690 g

690 mL / 3 cups

345%

White quinoa

200 g

1:Y.. cups

100%

0 0

Pl ace a baking sheet in the freezer to chill for at least 15 minutes. Combine in a pressure cooke r, and press ure-cook at a gauge pressure ofl bar / 15 psi for4 minutes . Sta rt t iming when full pressure is reached. @ De pressurize the cooker qu ickly by running tepid water over the rim . @ Strain th e quinoa, and sp read it in a n even laye r on the frozen bak ing sheet to cool qu ick ly.

Cau lifl ower florets

500g

1 med ium head

250%

® Green app le, peeled and finely diced Pine nuts, toasted Itali an parsley, minced Celery, peeled a nd diced Ho ney vinegar or w hite balsamic vinegar Extra-virgin olive oil Dried currants Macadamia nut oi l Salt Lemon juice

Shave off the tips of the cauliflower florets by ca refully using a mando li ne. Measure 160 g / 1:Y.. cups ofthe shaved caul iflower tips for use in the next step.

72g

o/e cup

36%

0 Combine, and mix gently with the cooked quinoa and meas ured

40g 40g

Y. cup y, cup Y. cup

20% 20% 17.5% 17.5%

cauliflower tips until all ing redi ents are evenly distri buted.

35 g 35 g

40 mL/ 2Y, Tbsp

35 g 34g 16g

40 mL/ 2Y2 Tbsp Y. cup 20 mL / 3Y, tsp

Serve the salad cold.

17.5% 17% 8%

to taste to taste Safety tipsf or pressure-cooking: see page 33

To avoid overcooking the quinoa. depressurize the cooker quickly after 4 minutes at full pressure by running lukewarm water over the rim, and then immediately strain the quinoa, and spread it onto a prechilled baking tray.

17 0

MODERNIS T CUISINE AT HOME

Although you can use a Microplane or other fine grater to shave the tips off cauliflower florets. a mandoline is faster. Use the finest cut available on the tool; the pile of shaved tips should resemble couscous.

Use the leftover stalks to make soup or puree (see page 180). or "Fat-Free" Mac and Cheese (see page 314).

The renowned Modernist chef Ferran Adria ca me up with the id ea of using cauliflower to make a faux couscous by shaving just the surface with a very sharp knife. Here, the shaved tips of the florets add something unexpected to this quinoa sa lad.

PRESSURE-COOKED CHICKPEA SALA D YIELD: TIME ESTIMATE: STORAGE NOTES : LEVEL OF D IFF ICULTY: SPEC IAL REQU IREMENTS :

six servings (575 g/ 20 cups) 13 hours overall, including 30 minutes ofpreparation and 120 hours unattended keeps for 3 days when refrigerated easy pressure cooker

We created this recipe to go with our Sous Vide Tuna Confit (see page 174), which produces a flavorful oil that you can u se in the dressing for this salad. The salad actually improves with a night in t he refrigerator, which gives the flavors more time to blend.

We cook the chickpeas in mineral water because its high calcium content helps keep the chickpeas from breaking down and preserves their integrity. For a more refined presentation, you can also peel the skins from the cooked chickpeas at step 6, before making t he salad.

ING RED IENT

WE IG HT

VOLUME

SCALING

PROCEDURE

Wate r Dry chi ckpeas

SOOg 150g

500 mL/ 2'/a cups Y., cup

333% 100%

Mi ne ra l water Sa lt Garlic clove, who le Thyme Fresh bay leaf

350 g Sg 3g 1g 0 .2g

350 mL / 1Y2 cups 1;4 tsp 1 clove 1 sprig 1 medium leaf

233% 3% 2% 0 .7% 0 .1%

速

Combine with the drained chickpeas in a pressure cooke r, and pressure-cook at a gauge pressure of1 bar / 15 psi for 20 minutes. Start timing when full press ure is reached . @) Depressurize the cooker. 速 Drain, and then remove and disca rd the garlic and herbs. @ Coo l the chi ckpeas comp lete ly.

Sherry vinegar Anchovy fi ll ets (packed in oil), drained Lemo n juice Lemon zest, grated

45g 25g

50 mL/ 14 cup 6-8 fi ll ets

30% 17%

0 Combine in a blender, and blend until smooth.

lO g Sg

10 mL/ 2 tsp 2Tbsp

7% 4%

140 g

160 mL /'/3 cup

93%

速

Add gradua lly to the vinegar and anchovy mixture while blending, and blend until com pl etely em ulsifi ed . Store the dressi ng in the refrigerator.

SOg

;4 cup

33%

速

Toss gently with the chickpeas and the dressi ng until mixed .

Extra-virgin o li ve oi l o r oi l from So us Vide Tuna Co nfit

Combine, and soak the ch ickpeas for at least12 hours in the refri gerato r.

0 Drain.

see page174

Kalamata o lives, pitted and chopped Capers, chopped Basi l leaves, torn Mint leaves, torn

@ Serve co ld .

6g 3g 3g

2 tsp 5-6 leaves 5-6 leaves

4% 2% 2% Safety tipsfar pressure-cooking: see page 33

2 172

Soak th e chickpeas in water for at least 12 hours in th e refrigerator. The dried chickpeas ca n triple in size as they absorb the water, so use plenty of water. Drain the chickpeas.

MODERNIST CUISINE AT HOME

7 3

Com bin e the mine ral wate r, sa lt, ga rli c, thyme, a nd bay leaf with th e d ra in ed c hick peas in a p ress ure coo ker, a nd then p ress ure-cook at a gauge pressu re of 1 ba r / 15 psi fo r 20 minutes. Start tim ing as soon as fu ll pressu re has bee n reached.

Le t the coo ke r coo l, or run te pid water ove r the rim, to d e press uri ze it.

Dra in the c hi ckpeas, a nd d isca rd the garl ic cl ove a nd herbs.

All ow th e chi ckpeas to coo l co mp le tely. Yo u can pee l off the ir skins at this point if yo u want a clea ne r loo k.

Co mbin e th e vinega r, dra ined a nchovy fill e ts, le mon ju ice, a nd le mon zest in a ble nd e r. Ble nd until smooth. Yo u ca n also use a n imm e rs ion ble nd e r.

Whi le ble nding, add th e oi l gradu a lly to the vin ega r a nd a nchovy mixture, a nd contin ue ble nding until th e d ressing is compl e te ly e mu lsified. Refrigerate th e d ressing if you will not be using it imm ed iate ly.

Toss th e c hopped o lives a nd ca pe rs w ith the he rbs, c hickpeas, a nd dressing to mix them ge ntly.

Se rve co ld. Th e sa lad is d e licio us w he n top ped with sli ces ofS o us Vid e Tuna Confit (see next page).

SALADS AND COLD SOUPS

1 73

SOUS VIDE TUNA CON FIT YIELD: TIME ESTIMATE: STORAGE NOTES: LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY: SPECIAL REQUIREMENTS:

six servings (500 g) 250 hours overall, including 30 minutes ofpreparation and 25 hours unattended keeps for 3 days when refrigerated moderate sous vide setup, three 500 mL/ 16 oz canning jars

The tuna in this recipe is cooked sous vide in jars rather than in bags as an example of how you can cook in a low-temperature water bath without using plastic. Because the tuna is fresh and lightly cooked, it

is more fragile and perishable than the preserved, pressure-canned variety. Handle it delicately, store it in the refrigerator, and eat it within 3 days.

INGREDIENT

WEIGHT

VOLUME

SCALING

PROCEDURE

Water Salt Sugar

600g 24g 12g

600 ml / 2Y2 cups 2Tbsp 2 tsp

120% 4.8% 2.4%

Combine, and stir until dissolved to make a brine.

Ahi tuna, cut into 2.5 cm / 1 in pieces

500 g/ 1.11b

100%

Place in the brin e, and refrigerate for 24 hours.

Olive oil

500g

Preheat a water bath to 51 •c / 124 •F. Drain the tuna, rinse it in cold water, a nd then pat it dry. Divide the tuna evenly into three 500 ml / 16 oz canning jars, and add enough oil to cover the fish by 1 cm /¥s in. Seal the jars tightly. Place the sealed jars in the water bath, and cook sous vide to a core temperature of 50 •c / 122 •F, about 1 hour. Serve the tuna warm, or store it, refrigerated, in the canning jars.

560 ml / 2 YJ cups

100%

0 ® ®

Safety tipsfor lightly cookedfood, see poge xxv

3 Preheat a water bath to 51 •c / 124 •F.

Add the salt and sugar to the water, and stir until they dissolve. This is the brine.

Drain the brine from the tuna pieces, rinse them in co ld water, and then pat them dry with paper towels.

Place the sealed jars in the water bath, and Divide the tuna pieces evenly into three 6 cook 5 500 sous vide until the core temperature of ml / 16 oz canning jars, and add enough

Place the tuna in the brine, and refrigerate it for 24 hours to marinate.

olive oil to cover the fish by 1 em I :Ya in. Don't leave much headspace, or th e jars will float in the water bath. Seal the jars tightly.

the tuna pieces reaches 50 •c / 122 •F, about 1 hour.

7 Yo u ca n substitute swordfish, black co d, ha libut, sa lm o n, o r escolar fo r the tuna in this reci pe with exce lle nt res ults. We use o rdinary cook ing-grade o live oil, as ex tra-virgin olive oil te nds to ove rpower the fl avo r of the tuna. But othe r mild oils, such as ri ce bran, avocado, or macada mia nut oi l, will wo rk as we ll.

174

Serve the tuna warm, or store it in the sealed canningjars for up to 3 days in the refrigerator.

WHILE YOU ' RE AT IT: Tuna Confit Salad and Tuna Melt Sandwich Make a tuna salad by combin ing 150 g/ 1 cup of flaked or chopped tuna confit with 30 g/ 2 Tbsp of mayonnaise or aio li (see page 108) and 15 g/2 Tbsp chopped pickled onions. To make a tuna melt sandwich, spread the tuna salad on sourdough bread, and top with two Perfectly Melting Cheese Sli ces (see page 317). See Grilled Cheese Sandwiches on page 318 for finishing instructions.

MODERNIST CUISINE AT HOME

7 PRESSURE-COOK ED LENTIL SALAD YIELD: TIME ESTIMATE: STORAGE NOTES: LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY: SPEC IAL REQUIREMENTS:

six to eight servings (750 g/ 4 cups) 30 hours overall, including 30 minutes ofpreparation and 3 hours unattended keeps for 3 days when refrigerated easy pressure cooker, Modernist Vinaigrette (see page 117)

INGREDIENT

WEIGHT

VOLUME

SCALING

PROCEDURE

Dry green lentils (com mon)

200g

1 cup

100%

Carrots, thinly sliced

85g

43%

0 ®

Leeks, thinly sliced

70g

cups

Shallots, thinly sliced

50g

Celery, thinly sliced

50g

Garlic, thinly sli ced

2 cloves

Black peppercorns

ltsp

Thyme

1 sprig

0.5%

Fresh bay leaf

0.2g

11eaf

0.1 %

Mineral water

750g

750 mL / 3 ~ cups

375%

25% 25% 25%

0 ®

Combine with the lenti ls and sachet in a pressure cooker. Pressure-cook at a gauge pressure of1 bar / 15 psi for 7 minutes. Start timing as soon as full pressure has been reached.

® 0

Depressurize the cooker quickly by running tepid water over the rim. Check the lentils for tenderness; they shou ld be al dente. If necessary, simmer them uncovered for1-2 minutes longer. Discard the sachet, and allow the lentils to rest in the cook ing li quid at room temperature for 30 minutes.

® ® Modernist Vinaigrette

85g

Drain. Wrap in cheesecloth, and tie closed to create a sachet.

35%

:Y.. cup :Y.. cup :Y.. cup Y, cup

Sweet onion, thinly sliced 50g

Cover with plenty of co ld water, and leave to soak at room temperature for2 hours.

Drain, and refrigerate until ch ill ed .

100 mL /:Ya cup

43%

@ Toss gently with the chilled lentils, and season with salt to taste.

@ Stir into the lentils. Serve imm ediately, or refrigerate for1 day, which

see page117

Salt

to taste

Walnuts, chopped

95g

:z;, cup

48%

Fuji apple, peeled and finely diced

BOg

1 cup

40%

Chives, finely minced

2Tbsp

improves the balance of the flavors in the salad.

Safety tips for pressure-cooking: see page 33 Larger lentils and French green lentils take up to 20 minutes to cook in step 5.

SALADS AND COLD SOUPS

175

PRESSURE-COOKED VEGETABLE SOUPS HIGHLIGH TS

Throughout most of history, only

Pressu re-cooking ensures that the

those wea lthy enough to have a personal chef-will ing to sieve cooked

jus. Seasona l root vege tables such

flavo rs aren't dilute d in o ur all ium

vege tables-routinely enjoyed velvety

as ca rro ts, turnips, o r parsnips make

vegetab le soups. Now anyone with

wonderful va riat ions.

a good blender ca n ma ke them .

see page 182

see page 178

Replace th e carro ts in the Caramelize d

W hile you're at it, ma ke a delicate

Carrot Soup recipe with other vege ta-

vegetable stew by using a similar

bles to y ield a ny number o f creative

press ure-co oking technique to cook

soup combinatio ns.

whole vegetables.

see page 180

see page 185

Something magical happens when y~m combine chopped carrots, butter, a little water, and a pinch each of baking soda and salt in a pressure cooker for 20 minutes. At a slightly alkaline pH

Pressure-cooked barley is qu ick to make and p erfectly toothsome. T he pressu re extracts juices u ndiluted from sweet onions, leeks, and garlic to yield an intense broth . And all of the season's

of about 7.5 (because of the baking soda) and a temperature of up to 120 Âˇc I 250 â&#x20AC;˘p (from the pressure), the caramelization reactions flourish. The result is a terra-cotta-colored mixture

best vegetables take on the texture of fudge in a matter of m inutes. You can use whichever vegetables and greens are currently

that is the concentrated essence of caramelized carrots. Under pressure, many kinds of vegetables and fruit s transform into something dramat ically new, yet strikingly familiar. Thi nk of Campbell 's Tomato Soup: much of its iconic flavor comes from the tomatoes reacting with the high temperature of the canning process. That profile simply can't be reproduced with fresh tomato soup. When pressure-cooked, sweet corn transforms into popcornflavored cream; fresh bananas taste like warm, baked banana bread; and sweet potatoes intensify tenfold in flavor. If there is a way to induce kids to eat their vegetables, this may be it. We exploit a similar technique to re-create a classic vegetable stew.

at their peak. The techniques in this chapter are versatile enough to accommodate a wide range of flavors. THE SC I EN C E OF PRESSUR I NG VEGETABLES T O COOK

Vegetab les are made up of ce lls with stro ng wa ll s that softe n at highe r temperatures than the ce ll s in meat do. Vegetabl es a re co mposed mostly of water, however, and th e ir te mperature no rma lly wo n't exceed the boiling po int of water, 100 "C/ 212 "F, until they are d ried out. Coo king at elevated press ures gives us a way around thi s road block because the bo iling poi nt rises in step with the pressure. Even at120 "C/ 250 "F, vegetab les in a fully press urized cooker don't d ry out as they qui ckly become te nd e r. And beca use the air is sealed in, you do n't need to add mu ch water, so juices are extracted wi thout beco ming d iluted.

1 77

CARAMELIZED CARROT SOUP YIELD: TIME ESTIMATE: STORAGE NOTES: LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY: SPECIAL REQUIREMENTS:

six servings (1.3 kg/ 6 cups) 40 minutes overall, including 20 minutes ofpreparation and 20 minutes unattended keeps for 3 days when refrigerated or up to 2 months when frozen moderate pressure cooker, Stove-Top Carotene Butter (optional, see page 121)

The quality of this soup depends entirely on the quality of the car-

optional step, however; you can try the soup both ways and compare.

rots that go into it, so use the highest-quality carrots you can find.

Add a swirl of coconut cream and a few sprigs of tarragon in the

Carrot cores, rich in calcium, can add a bitter taste and unpleasant

final step to enhance the inherent sweetness of the carrots. Shredded

texture to this delicate soup, so we always remove them. It's an

young coconut and ajowan seeds are other favorite garnishes of ours.

INGREDIENT

WEIGHT

VOLUME

SCALING

PROCEDURE

Carrots, peeled

500g

5 cups / 5 medium

100%

Core the carrots by quartering them lengthwise and sli cing away any tough or fibrous cores. Cut the cored carrots into pieces 5 cm / 2 in long.

Unsalted butter

113g

Y2cup

22.6%

0 Melt in the base of a pressure cooker over medium heat.

Water Salt Baking soda

30g 5g 2.5g

30 mL/Yo cup 1\4 tsp Ya tsp

6% 1% 0.5%

® 0

Sti r to combine, and then add with the carrots to the melted butter. Pressure-cook at a gauge pressure ofl bar / 15 psi for 20 minutes. Start timing when full pressure is reached . ® Depressurize the cooker quickly by running tep id water over the rim. ® Blend the mixture to a smooth puree. (j) Pass the puree through a fine sieve into a pot.

Fresh carrot juice

635 g

690 mL/ 21h cups

127%

® ®

31h Tbsp

@ Blend into the soup by using an immersion blender until the butter has just melted.

Stove-Top Carotene 40g Butter(or unsalted butter)

Bring to a boil in a separate pot, and then strain through a fine sieve. Stir into the carrot puree. Add water, if necessary, to thin the soup to the desired consistency.

see page121

Salt

to taste

@ Season, and serve warm. Safety tipsfor pressure-cooking: see page 33

This recipe was one of the most popular in Modernist Cuisine. We do not use stock o r cream in this recipe because we want to avoid diluting the ca rrot fl avo rs. The juice from some kinds of carrots is so strongly flavored, however, that it overpowers the more delicate, ca ramelized ca rrot fl avo r. If that happens, substitute water, chicke n stock, or vegetable stock for so me or all of the ca rrot juice in step 8.

1 78

Slice the carrots lengthwise into quarters, and cut out and discard the tough and fibrous core from each quarter. Then cut the cored carrots into pieces5 cm / 2 in long. Removing the cores improves the texture and sweetness of the soup.

MOD ERN I ST CUIS I NE AT HOM E

Melt the butter in the base of a pressure cooker. The coating of butter helps to prevent the carrots from sticking.

Stir the water, salt, and baking soda until combined. Add this mixture and the carrot pieces to the melted butter, and stir well.

Pressure-cook the carrot mixture at a gauge pressure ofl bar / 15 psi for 20 minutes. Start timing as soon as full pressure has been reached. Gas and electric burners tend to cause so lids to catch on the bottom of the pressure cooker, so carefull y give the pot a few shakes as it heats to prevent sticking. After 20 minutes, the carrots shou ld be fully carame lized.

Depressurize the cooker quickly by running tepid water over the rim.

Blend the butter into the so up until it has just melted. Use an imm ersion blender; the blending is crucial to achieve a velvety texture.

Season the soup with sa lt to taste, and serve it warm.

VARIATION : Caramelized Carrot Puree To make a delicious carrot puree that pairs well with So us Vide Lobster Tail (see variation on page 288), skip steps 8-10. See the next page for additional variations.

Blend the carrot mixture to a smooth puree.

Pass the puree through a fine sieve into a pot.

Bring the carrot juice to a boil in a separate pot. Then st rain the juice through a fin e sieve to remove any so lids.

Stir the strained juice into the carrot puree, and return it to a simmer. Add water as needed to thin the soup to the desired consistency.

PRESSURE-COOKED VEGETABLE JUS YIELD:

420 g/ 178 cups

TIME ESTIMATE:

2 hours overall, including 30 minutes ofpreparation and 10 hours unattended

STORAGE NOTES:

keeps for 5 days when refrigerated or up to 6 months when frozen moderate pressure cooker, three 500 mL/ 16 oz canning jars

LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY: SPECIAL REQUIREMENTS:

You can combine this recipe and the two that follow into a Modernist Vegetable Stew-see page 185 for instructions. Pressurecooking can extract the essence of vegetables using much less water than you typically would when making stock. The concentrated result is so flavorful that it is really a jus, although you can use it

much as you would an intense stock, for example to make sauces and broths. The technique here lends itself to wonderful variations, such as jus made from carrots, turnips, parsnips, and other seasonal root vegetables, or from a combination of vegetables and fruits such as cabbage and apple, or bell pepper and tomato.

INGREDIENT

WEIGHT

VOLUME

SCALING

PROCEDURE

Sweet onions, thinly sliced Garlic cloves, thinly sliced Shallots, thinly sliced Leeks, white parts only, thinly sliced

265 g 160g 135g 135g

3'/1 cups lY2 cups 1% cups lY2 cups

100% 60% 51% 51 %

0 Toss together, and divide eve nly among three 500 mL / 16 oz

Water

120g

120 mL/Y2 cup

45%

canningjars.

0 ® ® Salt

to taste

Add 40 g/ 40 mL / 8 tsp of water to each jar. Tighte n the lids fully, an d then unscrew one-quarter turn so th at the jars do not exp lode. Place the filled jars on a metal rack o r trivet in the base of a pressure cooke r, and add 2.5 em / 1 in of water. Pressure-cook at a gauge pressure of1 bar / 15 psi for1 V2 hours. Start timing as soo n as full pressure has been reached. De press uri ze the cooker by running tepid wate r over th e rim. Let the jar contents cool slightly before opening to avoid splattering. Strain through a fine sieve, rese rving the juices. Disca rd th e so lids, or reserve fo r another use (see caption below). Season the jus, and serve it warm .

Safety tipsfor pressure-cooking: see page 33

Onions, leeks, shallots, and garlic are all closely related members of the Allium genus. After you put the allium slices and water in the canning jars and tighten the lids, be sure to then unscrew each lid one-quarter turn. Otherwise, the jars may explode.

182

Pressure-cooking is a remarkably efficient way to extract the intensely flavored juices of alliums. Use the jus as a broth for risotto or other grains.

MODERNIST CUISINE AT HOME

To obtain a clear jus. strain the juices through a fine sieve. Although you can increase the yield a bit by pressing on the solids, doing so may make the jus cloudy. After straining, you can puree the solids with salt and a little butter or olive oil.

8 PRESSURE-COOKED VEGETABLES YIELD: TIME EST IMATE: STORAGE NOTES: LEVEL OF D IFF ICULTY: SPEC IAL REQUIREMENTS:

300-400 g/ 4-6 cups 10 minutes overall keeps for 1 day when refrigerated easy pressure cooker

Pressure-cooking is well suited to any firm vegetable, including root

Pressure-cooking also works well w ith hard fruits, such as apples,

vegetables, onions, shallots, leeks, garlic, hard squashes, and stalks

Asian pears, and quince. Ifbabyvegetables aren't available, peel and

like celery, rhubarb, ch ard, and cardoon. The vegetables emerge

cut larger ones into bite-size pieces. Make sure all the pieces are the

from the cooker very soft and having a delicate, fudge-like texture.

same size so that they cook evenly.

INGREDIENT

Baby ca rrots, trimm ed Pearl o nio ns, trimm ed Baby turnips, trimm ed Baby radish es, trimm ed Water Unsalted butte r, cubed Salt

WEIGHT

VO LUME

120g 14 g 2g

24 pieces 24 pi eces 12 pieces 12 pieces 120 mL / Y2 cup 1 Tbsp Y, tsp

SCALING

PROCEDURE

0 0

100% 12% 1.7%

Co mbine in a pressure cooke r. Pressure-cook at a gauge pressure of 1 bar / 15 psi for 3 minutes. Start timing as soo n as ful l pressure has been reached. ÂŽ Depressurize the cooker quickly by runn ing tepid wate r over the rim. 0 Drain the liquid, a nd se rve the vegetab les imm ediately.

Safety tipsf or pressure-cooking: see page 33

TO MAKE AHEAD After draining the liquid in step 4, cool the vegetab les, a nd refrigerate them in a cove red conta in er. To reheat the vegetables, place them on a microwave-safe plate, cover with plastic wrap, and mi crowave fo r 30 seco nds at 550 watts.

PRESS URE - COO KED VEGETABLE SOUPS

18 3

PRESSURE-COOKED BARLEY YIELD : TIME ESTIMATE : STORAGE NOTES: LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY: SPECIAL REQU IR EMENTS:

480g/3 cups 30 minutes overall, including 10 minutes ofpreparation and 20 minutes unattended keeps for 3 days when refrigerated easy pressure cooker

Any whole grain-barley, wheat, spelt, farro, amaranth, quinoa, millet-can be cooked perfectly in a pressure cooker in very little time (for cooking times, see the table on page 324). The hulled

barley we call for here includes the intact bran, but pearl barley is fine as a substitute and takes even less time to cook.

INGREDIENT

WEIGHT

VOLUME

SCA LING

PROCEDURE

Hulled barley (with bran intact), rinsed a nd drained Water

200g

1 cup

100%

<D Combine in a pressure cooker, and bring to a boil.

0 500g

500 mL/ 2Va cups

250%

Pressure-cook at a gauge pressure of1 bar / 15 psi for 20 minutes. Start timing as soon as full pressure has been reached. ÂŽ Depressurize the cooker quickly by running tepid water over the rim. @) Strain the barley, an d se rve it immediate ly. Safety tipsfor pressure-cooking: see poge 33

TO MAKE AHEAD After straining the barley in step 4, rinse it with co ld water, and drain well. Transfer the barley to a baking sheet, and refrigerate it uncovered until co mpl ete ly cool, about 1 hour. Th en toss the barley with a bit of oil to keep the grains from sticking together, and store it, covered, in the refrigerator. To reheat the barley, warm it in a pot with a small amo unt of broth or water. WHILE YOU'RE AT IT: Barley Sa lad Comb in e 480 g/ 3 cups of cooked and coo led barley with 175 g/ ÂĽo cup of Spinach Pesta (see page 103), 72 g / o/a cup of minced green app le, and 35 g/ Y., cup of peeled and diced ce lery.

8 VEGETABLE STEW four servings (435 g/2 cups) 20 minutes ofpreparation serve immediately easy Pressure-Cooked Barley (see the previous page), Pressure-Cooked Vegetables (see page 183), Pressure-Cooked Vegetable Jus (see page 182), Pressure-Cooked Garlic Con.fit oil (see page 126)

YIELD: TIME ESTIMATE : STORAGE NOTES: LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY: SPECIAL REQUIREMENTS :

You can compose pressure-cooked barley, vegetables, and vegetable

and the plate-up are straightforward, and offer a good example

jus from the three preceding recipes in this chapter to make an

of how home cooks can produce restaurant-quality food with

impressively elegant vegetable stew. Both the individual preparations

confidence and relative ease.

INGREDIENT

WEIGHT

VOLUME

PROCEDURE

Pressure-Cooked Barley, warm

100 g

Yz cup

0 Distribute the barley, turnips, carrots, onions, and rad ishes evenly amo ng four bowls. Tweezers are a handy tool for this step.

see the previous page

Pressure-Cooked Vegetables, warm

all pieces

see page183

Seasonal greens and herbs

a few small leaves of each

0 Garnish . Use your imagination, a nd experiment with a variety of colors and arrangements (see variations below).

Pressure-Cooked Vegetable jus, 250 g warm

250 mL/ 1 cup

ÂŽ

45 mL/ 3Tbsp

@) Drizzle into the prepared bowls of so up .

Divide equa lly among the four bowls.

see page 182

Pressure-Cooked Garlic Confit oi l 40 g see page 126

Sa lt

to taste

ÂŽ

Sprink le over the bowls, and serve the stew imm ediately.

VARIATIONS: Seasonal Herb Garnishes Many co mbin at ions offresh herbs work as garnishes. Here are some seasona l possib il ities. Winter: amaranth, baby beet greens, and rosemary Spring: baby chard, chervi l, basil, and chive blossoms Summer: purslane, nasturtiums, and tarragon Autumn: baby mustard greens, watercress, and thyme

PRESSURE- COOK ED VEGETABLE SOUPS

185

STEAK Making a great steak takes experience if you follow the traditional

We ran tests on a range of cooking and finishing

route: spending many weekends sweating over a grill or cooktop

the following pages cover the best approaches for prepan

to develop a fine intuition for timing and doneness. Even grill

evenly cooked, juicy steak having a seared crust.

masters flub a steak occasionally. Even when they do their best, the outside of a grilled steak inevitably is overcooked by the time

THE SCIENCE OF AGING MEAT

the center reaches the perfect temperature. That's just the way

Dry-aged beef is prized for good reason. It has a pleasantly nutty aroma, with mild cheesy notes, caused by the oxidation of fat and the concentration of sugar and savory protein molecules. The meat becomes more tender as enzymes dismantle the muscle fibers into fragmented proteins that retain more of the natural juices during cooking. But dry-aging is expensive. It requires both time and storage facilities that can control temperature and humidity. It removes moisture: the volume of the meat visibly shrinks. You have to trim away and discard the outer layer, which has essentially rotted. That leaves you with a pricey, if delicious, cut of meat. We can't easily replicate the aging process, but we have discovered one shortcut. Brush on Asian fish sauce (3 g of fish sauce for every 100 g of steak), vacuum seal the steak, and then refrigerate it for three days. This both tenderizes the meat and creates the deeper umami flavor that is characteristic of aged meat but with much less effort and waste.

that high heat works. Thanks to new methods of precise, low-temperature cooking such as sous vide, it is now much easier to prepare consistently terrific steaks. There are still nuances, to be sure. Each cut of meat, from rib eye to filet and flat iron to flank, differs in its proportions and distribution of fat and muscle fibers, and these factors affect the tenderness, juiciness, and ideal cooking temperature of the meat. But steaks cooked sous vide lose just 3%-5% of their moisture to evaporationabout a tenth as much as is lost during conventional grilling. So in exchange for a somewhat longer cooking process, you reap big dividends in juiciness and consistency.

Pressure-rendered fat imparts a grilled

flavor without any of the flame or the

fuss. Make a jar of the fat to have on hand, and pan fry your beef in it. It's like liquid grilled steak. see page 196

CUTS OF STEAK "Butchering" connotes a certain roughness, an image of chopping with wild abandon. But butchers actually often work with the precision of surgeons-and with a comparable knowledge of anatomy-as they break down primal cuts into portions convenient for cooking and eating. Cuts of meat are divided broadly into the tender cuts, which are best for quick grilling,

broiling, frying, or oven-roasting; and the tough cuts, which require lengthy braising, stewing, or pot-roasting. The most tender portions are also the most expensive. But cheaper tough cuts often have more flavor. When cooked gently for a longtim e or sliced thinly against the grain, a tough cut of meat can become as tender as a filet mignon.

TENDER CUTS

Filet or Tenderloin

New York Strip

Rib Eye

The most tender and most expensive per pound, filet is a leaner cut of uniform texture and fat marbling. It is best cooked rare to medium rare. Some beef lovers find the flavor too mild. Also known as: whole fil et, filet mignon roast, tenderloin tip roast, Chateaubriand

The strip provid es a good bala nce of te nd e rn ess and flavor. We preferto trim the laye r of fat a nd silverskin tendon that runs along one side. Also known as: strip steak, top loin, strip loin, Kansas City steak, am bassador steak, boneless club steak, hote l-sty le steak, veiny steak

The steak version of a rib roast or "prime rib," the rib eye takes our prize for best flavor. Sinews do make this cut gristly near the bone, however, where the meat also takes on a d e nser texture. That portion is removed from boneless and Spencer rib eyes. Also known as: Delmonico steak, beauty steak, market steak, Spencer steak, entrecote

T-Bone or Porterhouse The T-bone offers the best of both worlds: a New York strip plus a filet, connected by a bone. It is a larger steak that is often too big for a single portion. Cooking the meat on the bone kee ps it juicier and more flavorful.

188

The various muscles of a cow play different roles in its daily life. The more active and load-bearing muscles. such as the shoulders and legs, are tougher and richer in connective tissue and collagen. They are more suitable for grinding, braising, or low-temperature cooking before searing. Less-active muscles, such as the loin, are much more tender and make excellent steaks. The muscles around the belly are more fibrous and much higher in fat because they support and insulate the animal's organs.

MODERNIST CUI SINE AT HOME

9 TOUGH CUTS

Chuck Top Blade

Hanger and Skirt

Flat Iron

Chuck steaks are tough, inexpensive cuts usually used for braising, stew meat, or pot roasts, but they are neve rth eless very flavorful. As the beef equivalent of pork shoulder, this cut includes parts of many different muscl es as well as fat, sinew, a nd bone. Chuck is best cooked so us vide for 36-48 hours. Also known as: boneless chuck slices, boneless chuck fillet steak, ch uck eye steaks

The sk irt and hanger steak have a pronounced gamey flavor and long grain that makes for a chewier texture. They are best either slowcooked so us vide or grilled quickly, served rare, and sliced thinly against the grain. Also known as: Philadelphia steak, butcher's steak, hanging tenderloin, hanging tender, bavette

A chuck steak cut from the shoulder region often into two thin steaks to remove a tough strap of sinew-the flat iron has an excellent flavor. It is most tender when cooked so us vide . Also known as: top bonel ess chu ck stea k, sho ulder tip blade steak, top blade stea k, petite steak, lifter steak, book steak, butler steak, paleron

Name that steak Confused about which cut of meat is which at the grocery store? Naming conventions for cuts of meat-even for the primal cuts shown in the diagram on the previous page-vary widely, not just from one country to another but within a country as we ll. We've listed some of the more common synonymous names here.

Flank

Tongue

Short Rib

lean and flavorful, the flank stea k accepts marinades well thanks to its strong grain pattern, which also gives it a coarse texture. A thin cut, it is easy to overcook; when cooked conventionally, it's best served rare to medium rare and sliced thinly against the grain. Also known as: l ondon broil, bavette de jlanchet, bife de vacio

Although usually classified as an organ meat rather than a steak, beef tongue is actually a muscl e and can pass as a tender, del icious steak if you cook it so us vide at 62 â&#x20AC;˘c / 144 â&#x20AC;˘f for 48 hours, long enough to turn th e tough collagen into smooth gelatin. The texture can range from rubbe ry, when coo ked too hot or too fast, to so tender that we call it "meat butter."

Our favorite overall cut of beef is the short rib, which is particularly delicious when cooked ultraslow for 24-72 hours (see page 229) to medium rare. You can either cut a thick, steaklike layer of meat off the ribs, or use them in braised dishes and stews. Also known as: oven-busters, flanken ribs

STEAK

189

GRADES OF MEAT Americans have been using the U.S. Department of Agriculture's meat-grading system since the early years of the 20th century. Consisting of prime, choice, select, standard, utility, cutter, and canner grades, it was the first formalized system in the world for meat inspection and grading. It was spawned in large part by public outrage at the meat industry afterthe publication in 1906 of Upton Sinclair's expose The jungle, which described in gruesome detail the

deplorable meat-processing practices of the time. That same year, Congress passed the Meat Inspection Act, which set up government oversight of slaughtering and packing operations. That law spurred much-needed reform. But the USDA grading system, as it stands today, still leaves a lot to be desired for judging meat quality. Although some countries have copied the American system, others, such as Japan and Australia, have since surpassed it.

United States

Europe

USDA inspectors determine the grade of meat by considering such

Europe, surprisingly, has no government-based system at all for grading meat. Large-scale purchasers and suppliers set their own

factors as age and marbling. The emphasis on marbling is based on the presumption that fat content is a good indication of the quality

proprietary standards. The economic incentive is for ranchers to

of the meat-in particular, of its tenderness. Although marbling may be a convenient proxy for quality, it's not always reliable, especially

concentrate on carcass yield rather than meat quality. This isn't to say that there isn't excellent meat in Europe. On the

for gauging tenderness or flavor. Cuts below the "select" grade are

contrary, small farmers and ranchers often work to stand out by producing superior meat. But such farmers and ranchers must either

rarely seen intact by consumers; instead, these cuts are used by food

remain relatively small and sell directly to the public and to indepen-

manufacturers to make processed meat products.

dent restaurants, or they must successfully build a recognizable premium brand.

Canada The Canadian beef-grading system, with its focusing on marbling, parallels the U.S. government's system and assigns the labels

Prime

Cho ice

Se lect

Excellent quality and marbling; very tender and juicy; usually found only in fine restaurants and premium meat stores

Tender and flavorful , with three levels of marbling: small, modest, and moderate; available in supermarkets

Leaner and thus less tender; lowest grade sold at retail; formerly termed "good"

Canada prime, AAA (equivalent to USDA choice), AA (equivalent to USDA select), and A. The A grades represent 90% of graded beef in Canada, while B-E grades are used for cattle that are too young or old. Grading is voluntary; producers must request and pay for the service provided by the Canadian Beef Grading Agency. Thus, lower-quality meat is more likely to be marked "no-roll"

Japan

or "ungraded" when it is sold. (Inspection is not voluntary.)

Japan's meat-grading system is more nuanced and demanding than that of the United States. Marbling, color, firmness, texture, fat quality, and yield are evaluated to grade meat on a scale of 1 to 5. It has also been adapted to include beef from Wagyu cattle, a specialized Japanese breed renowned for the intense marbling of its muscle tissue. USDA prime is equivalent to Japan's rating of3 ("average quality"); the top grade in Japan is AS.

Australia The Australian beef-grading system, known as Eating Quality Assured, uses a sophisticated statistical model to predict the quality of each cut of meat from a given animal. Producers are rewarded for doing the things that ensure the highest quality: careful breed selection, attention to the animals' diet and welfare, and, perhaps most important, carefully managed slaughter-something that no other grading system recognizes. The system is not based on marbling; researchers found that marbling accounts for only 20% of the variation in meat tenderness. We believe that Australia's is the best and most innovative grading system on the planet.

Japanese Wagyu beef

1 90

MODERNIST CUISINE AT HOME

9 PREMIUM VARIETIES OF BEEF

Wagyu, Kobe, and Kobe-Style be part of a memorable experience for a special occasion. In general, the best cuts ofWagyu beef are the rib eye and the strip

Wagyu is the name for the superlative meat from specific breeds of Japanese cattle. Although it is sometimes called "Kobe beef," after the port city from which much of this meat is shipped, Wagyu comes

loin (or New York strip), which have the most extreme marbling.

from high-quality beef cattle that are raised all over Japan. Wagyu beef is prized worldwide for its rich flavor, tenderness, and

Wagyu tenderloin is also good, but the difference between it and non-Wagyu tenderloin is less pronounced. Waygu beef is often best

juiciness. Its amazingly dense marbling exceeds that of any other

served medium rare and, because of its richness, in small portions. Some ranches in the U.S. and Australia sell "Kobe-style beef"

beef, and is the product of genetics, diet, and a luxurious upbringing that includes long, slow walksj regular massagesj and a diet that

that is raised domestically. Japan now prohibits export of live Wagyu cattle, but a few cows were exported before the ban. Although much

includes beer or sake.

darker and less marbled than true Japanese Wagyu, this beef can still

The market prices for Wagyu beef are just as extravagant, often

make for excellent eating.

exceeding $100 per pound in Japan and even more overseas-if you can find it at all. Although some find the meat too fatty, it can

Angus

Feed

Angus cattle originated in the counties of Aberdeen and Angus in

Butchers ask premium prices for beef based not only on the breed of the cow or where it was raised but also on what kind of food it

Scotland in the mid-19th century. The breed was developed largely

ate-particularly when it was in the "finishing" stage shortly before

by Hugh Watson from hornless cattle that traditionally flourished in the area. Watson's selective breeding created a variety of cattle

slaughter. But the choices are not as clear as the marketing suggests. The norm is to finish cattle on a diet of corn, soybeans, barley,

that became famous for both the quantity and quality of its meat. Most Angus cattle are black, but some

alfalfa, and/ or other grains. Each has its advocates. Corn contains a good balance of protein and sugars, whereas soybeans contribute

purebred Angus have red hides. Angus Beef" in the United States,

fat as well as protein. Alfalfa, a legume distantly related to soybeans, is relatively high in protein and easier to transport (in the form of

but it is mostly an empty marketing

pellets) than loose hay is.

Today, one can buy "Certified

Some ranches tout their "grass-fed" beef. It is generally true that

slogan. Animals can qualify for

an all-grass diet makes for more flavorful beef. But the quality of the flavor depends on the quality of the grass. Cattle grazing on poor-

"Certified Angus" status by having 51% black hides and meeting some size, marbling, and age tests. Purebred Angus that happen to be red aren't eligible, and some cattle that are genetically not Angus but

quality pasture or bitter grass can make for bad beef-meat that is inferior to even cheap, grain-fed beef. On the other hand, cattle fed

happen to be black are. The labeling would be more accurate if it read "Certified Half-Black Cattle Beef"-but that wouldn't sell

on excellent grass can produce amazing meat. Unfortunately, there's no way to tell, just by looking at a label, exactly what went into the

as well.

animal before it appeared on the butcher's counter.

STEAK

19 1

COOKING STEAK Strategies for Preparing and Cooking Steak

The secret to making consistently great steak is to cook it in two steps: firstthe interior, and then the exterior. Traditional techniques try to do both at once, but that requires near-perfect timing. A better app roach is to cook the interior slowly at a low te mperature-sous vide if you can, a lthough a low-temperature ove n or a covered grill with coals shoved to one side (to mimic a low-temperature oven) works nicely, too. Use high heat to sear the exterior and produce the browning Maillard reactions that give steak its attractive look and terrific taste. All of the options we recommend for preparing, cooking, and finishing steak are listed below. As the diagram at right shows, some finishing techniques can be done e ithe r before or after cooking. Choose the options that best fitthe results yo u want and the time a nd equipment yo u have availab le.

Season or tenderize (optio nal)

Cook

Recommended for: cook ing in a lowtemperature oven or gril ling over indirect heat

Sear

Cook

Re commended for: cooking sous vide, and other cooking techniques that invo lve sea li ng the food

Cook in oven or on grill Recommended for : mimicking lowtemperature cooki ng if you do not have a so us vide setup

Sous Vide Steak, see page 194

Best Bets for Cooking Tender Meat So us Vide To cook steak so us vide, fo llow th e steps on page 194. For more on cooki ng to a target core te mpe rature and othe r so us vide techniques, see cha pte r 3. For suggested times and temperatures for coo king tough cuts so us vid e, see the table on page 228. Flank steak ca n be treate d as e ith e r a te nd e r o r to ugh cut. Ta rget co re te mp e ra ture Ra re

Pink

Me d ium ra re

In g re d ie nt

Me dium

<oc>

(oC)

(oF)

No te

See page

cut thinly agai nst the grai n for maximum tenderness, or use a kalbi ma rinade

134

beef, filet

122

127

133

144

beef, flank

129

133

138

144

beef, rib eye

129

133

136

140

to tenderize, hold at 56 Â°C/ 133 Â°Ffor 3 hours

beef, strip steak

126

133

135

144

dry-aged is idea l; see page 186 for a trick that mimi cs aging

lamb loin, rack

129

135

138

144

coat with o live oil to prevent a stro ng lamb fl avor from developing

pork loin chop

n/ a

136

140

144

brine before cooking

pork tenderloin

n/ a

133

138

142

(temperatures in red are those that we prefer)

1 92

MOD ERNIST CUISINE AT HOME

196

202

9 Preparation Before Cooking and Searing Cure, Marinade, or Spice Rub

Freeze

These pretreatments add flavor to t he meat and can tenderize it as well, if applied well in advance of cooki ng. Sp ice rubs a nd marinades can a lso be used to season meats after they a re cooked o r seared.

One way to prevent overcooking the interior is to freeze just the outer layer of the meat first . You ca n th en sear it, which thaws the frozen layer, and finally cook it at low te mperature until the inte rior is done.

Cooking Methods

Sous Vide in a Water Bath

Sous Vide in a Cooler

Low-Temperature Oven

Gri ll with Banked Coals

A digitally contro lled water bath is the most precise instrument for cooking so us vide (see page 63). It is a lso the only method that lets you cook cheape r but flavorful cuts of meat as you would steak (see page 228).

You can improvise a water bath out of an ice chest. It's the perfect way to cook steak for an outdoor barbecue, tai lgate party, o r camping trip (see page 198). A large cooler can hold hot water to within a few degrees of a set temperature for up to 5 hours.

A conve nti o nal oven, when set to its lowest temperature, ca n gently cook the interior of a steak much like a comb i oven wou ldespecia lly if you freeze the outside laye r of the steak first (see page 196).

Grilling is probably the most difficult way to coo k steak perfectly beca use yo ur timing mu st be pe rfect. But we have devised a n indirect grilling technique that greatly imp roves yo ur cha nces of success (see page 200).

Sear with a Blowtorch

Deep-Fry

Sear in a Pan

Sear on a Gri ll o r Broiler

Believe it or not, a blowtorch is th e fas test way to sear a steak (see page 14). We recommend using a blowtorch that burns MAPP or propylene gas rather than propane because it produces a hotter flame a nd leaves no odor residue.

Oil conducts heat with amazing efficie ncy. You ca n exp loit that property to brown the outside of a steak beautifully witho ut overcooking the interior: sim ply deepfry the cooked steak very briefly in hot o il.

Perhaps the most familiar way to get a ni ce seared crust on your steak is to sear it in pan (see page 196). The pan must be very hot to avoid overcooking the interior. A pan or griddl e made of heavy cast iron works best.

Grills a nd bro il ers a re better for searing stea k tha n for cooking it all the way through. If yo u know what you're doing, yo u ca n use a hair dryer to sup erh eat the coa ls in a gri ll (see page 47).

Searing Strategies

STEAK

193

SOUS VIDE STEAK YIELD: TIME ESTIMATE: STORAGE NOTES: LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY: SPECIAL REQUIREMENTS :

Jour servings (1 kg/ 2 steaks) 1 hour overall, including 50 minutes unattended serve immediately moderate sous vide setup, blowtorch or deepjrying setup

Cook steaks sous vide to perfection, and then quickly sear the out-

over very high heat. The temperatures we give here cook strip

side to a crisp, savory brown. Our two favorite searing methods are

steaks just the way we like them; see the table on page 192 for

deep-frying in very hot oil and searing with a blowtorch. Alterna-

recommended cooking temperatures for other kinds of tender

tively, sear the steaks for 30 seconds per side in a large, oiled skillet

steaks or chops.

INGREDIENT

WEIGHT

VOLUME

SCALING

PROCEDURE

Beef strip steaks, at least 2.5 cm / 1 in thick Neutral-tasting oil

1 kg / 2.21b

21a rge

100%

CD 0

Neutral frying oil

as needed

see pa ge xx ii

Unsalted butter, melted (optional)

as needed

Fla ky salt (Mal don brand) to taste

Pre heat a wate r bath to 55 •c / 131 •F. Pl ace each stea k in a sepa rate zip-to p bag with a small amount of oil. Re move as mu ch air as possibl e from th e bags, and seal th e m. Cook so us vide to a core te mpe rature of 54 •c / 129 •F, about 50 minutes.

® 0 Pre heat to 225 •c j 437 •F in a large, dee p pot no more th an ha lffull.

® ®

Re move the cooked stea ks from the bags, and pat th em dry. Dee p-fry th e stea ks until th ey turn dark brown and cri spy, a bout 30 seconds, a nd then drain th e m on a wire rack.

Brush ove r the steaks.

Season gene rously. Sli ce and se rve imme diately.

Safety lipsfordeepfrying: see page 26 Safety tipsfor b/owtorching: see poge IS

Creamed Spinach (see page 199) and Spinach Butter (see variation on page 121) make wonderful accompaniments to steak.

1 94

MODERNIST CUISINE AT HOME

1 2

Preheat a water bath to 55 "C/ 131 "F. Place each steak in a separate zip -top bag w ith just enough o il to coat the meat. Remove as much ai r as possible, and seal.

Cook sous vide to a core temperature of 54 "C/ 129 "Ffor medium ra re, abo ut 50 minutes. Coo king time w ill vary with the thickness of th e meat a nd its starting temperature; it's best to monitor the internal temperature by using a probe. A steak that is 5 cm / 2 in thick may take more than 3 hours to reach the target temperature, for exam pl e . If you prefe r meat cooked more fully, use the table o n page 192 to se lect th e desired co re temperature, a nd set yo ur water bath temperature 1"C/ 2 "F above that.

STEA K

Preheat the frying oi l to 225 â&#x20AC;˘c; 437 "Fin a large, deep pot no more than ha lf full.

Remove the cooked steaks fro m the bags, and pat them dry.

Deep-fry the steaks until they turn dark brown and cris py, about 30 seco nds, and then drain them o n a wire rack.

Brush the steaks with melte d butter.

Season generously with sa lt to taste. Slice and serve immediately.

195

LOW-TEMP OVEN STEAK YIELD: TIME EST IM ATE : STORAGE NOTES : LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY: SPEC IAL REQUIREMENTS :

four servings (1 kg I 2 steaks) 10 hours overall, including 10 minutes ofpreparation and 80 minutes unattended serve immediately easy digital thermometer with oven-safe probe

Some professional chefs use water-vapor ovens to cook with greater

We highly recommend that you first freeze the outside of the

precision at very low temperatures. A lthough home ovens don't yet

steaks so that you can sear them without overcooking the interior.

offer su ch "set it and forget it" convenience, you can achieve similar

The preseared meat then cooks to perfection in the low-t emperature

results by using a warm conventional oven (even a good toast er

oven. This technique t akes some patience, but the result is worth it.

oven), a digital probe thermometer, and frequent checking and adjust-

If your oven cannot hold a low temperature, try a different improvised setup, such as the recipe on page 198 for cooking in a cooler.

ment to compensate for inevitable drifts in the oven temperature. INGREDIENT

WEIGHT

VOLUME

SCALING

PROCEDURE

Beef strip steaks, at least 2.5 cm / 1 in thick Neutral frying oil or pressure-rendered beeffat

1 kg / 2.21b

21arge

100%

25 g

25 mL / 2Tbsp

2.5%

see pages xx ii or 123

Unsa lted butter, melted (optional)

0 Brush over the steaks.

as needed

Flaky salt (Maldon brand) to taste

Place the steaks on a baking sheet, and set in the freezerfor 30 minutes to freeze the exte rior. The interior of th e meat should remain unfroze n.

Preheat th e oven to 70 °C/ 160 °For its lowest temperature setting. If yo u have a water-vapor oven or hom e co mbi oven, set it to 1 oc/2 °Fhigh er than the des ired fina l co re te mpe rature of the steaks (see t he tabl e on page 192 for suggeste d core temperatu res).

@ Season gene rously. Sli ce and serve immediately.

Heat a dry ski ll et over high heat, and sear the steaks until they turn dark brown, a bout 60 seco nd s on each side. Press down on the steaks to

196

Place the steaks on a bak ing sheet, and freeze them for 30 minutes. Preheat the oven to 70 oc / 160 °For its lowest temperature setting. Q) Brush the fat on the partia lly frozen steaks. 0 Heat a dry sk ill et ove r high heat, a nd sear the steaks until dark brown, about 60 seconds on each side. ® Transfer the seared steaks to a baking sheet. Inse rt the oven-safe probe of a digital thermometer into the thickest part of one steak. @ Cook in the oven to a core temperature ofSS oc / 133 °F, abo ut 50 minutes.

Brush the fat on the partially frozen steaks.

e nsure even brown ing. You may want to sear the fat as well by holding the steak on its side.

MO DER NIS T CUI SINE AT HOME

Transfer the seared steaks to a rack or a baking sheet. Insert the oven-safe probe of a digita l thermometer into the thickest part of one steak.

Place the steaks in the oven, and cook them to a core temperature of 55 ' C/ 133 ' F for medium-rare strip steaks, or to another temperature selected from the table on page 192. The cooking time wi ll vary greatly depending on the thickness of the meat; allow about 50 minutes for strip steaks 2.5 cm / 1 in thick. The core temperature rises slowly at first but increases more quickly as time passes. Once the temperature is within about 10 ' C/ 18 ' F ofthe target temperature, check the steaks every minute or so to avoid overcook ing. Th e core temperature wi ll continu e to rise a few degrees after the steaks come out of the oven.

VA RI ATION : Frozen Steak This recipe works with a fully frozen steak as well. Preheat a pan with neutral frying oi l to its smoke point. Add the steak, and sear on one side until it turns dark brown . Searing one side is usually sufficie nt to develop the desired appea rance and fl avor. But yo u ca n also flip the steak, and sea r the other side. Then continu e w ith step 5. At step 6, add 20 -25 minutes to the cook ing time.

STEAK

Brush the steaks with melted butter.

Season the steaks generously with salt to taste. Slice the meat, and serve it immediately.

197

SOUS VIDE STEAK IN A COOLER YIELD: TIME EST IMATE : STORAGE NOTES : LEVEL OF DIFF ICULTY: SPECIAL REQUIREMENTS:

Jour servings (1 kg/ 2steaks) 1 hour overall, including 50 minutes unattended serve immediately easy cooler, blowtorch or grill

You can make perfectly cooked steak even when tailgating or at a picnic by simply using your cooler as an improvised w ater bath. Pour hot water into the cooler, drop in the sealed steaks, and head to the game or the beach. That's it! You need about 8 quarts of water per steak to maintain the water temperature, which will drop when you

add the meat. Start with room-temperature steaks and water that is 8 ·c I 14 •p hotter than the target core temperature. Eat the steak within 4 hours of putting it in the water; steak held longer than that is not safe to eat. Fish and tender cuts of chicken also can be cooked this way; see the tables on pages 281 and 245 for temperatures.

INGREDIENT

WEIGHT

VOLUME

SCALING

PROCEDURE

Beef strip steaks, at least 2.5 cm / 1 in thick Neutral-tasting oi l

1 kg/ 2.21b

21arge

100%

CD 0

20 g

25 mL/ lY2 Tbsp

Unsalted butter, melted (optiona l)

as needed

Flaky salt (Ma ldon brand) to taste

Bring th e steaks and a large cool er to room te mpe rature. Place each stea k in a separate zip-top bag with 10 g/ 15 mL / 1 Tbsp of oil, and sea l by using the water-d isplacement method (see page 58). 0 Fill th e cool e r with 60 •c / 140 •Fwate r, drop in the bags, and close th e lid. Make sure the re is ple nty of space betwee n th e stea ks. @) Cook so us vid e to a core te mpe rature of 52 •c / 126 •F, a bout 50 minutes, for me dium-ra re stea ks. ® Transfer the coo ke d steaks to a rack or a baking sheet. ® Sear on a ll sides by using a blowtorch or on a ve ry hot grill.

Brush over th e steaks.

Season gene rously. Sli ce, a nd se rve imm edi ate ly.

Safety tipsfor blowtorching: see page IS

----

------

19 8

MODERNIST CUI SINE AT HOME

9 CREAMED SPINACH YIELD: TIME ESTIMATE: STORAGE NOTES : LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY: SPECIAL REQUIREMENTS :

four to eight servings (525 g/ 2~ cups) 30 minutes overall serve immediately easy Wondra, xanthan gum, Comte cheese, Pressure-Cooked Garlic Con.fit (optional, see page 126)

Creamed spinach is a classic pairing for grilled steak, and it deserves more attention than the typical side dish does. We add salt at the

Xanthan gum absorbs residual moisture, thickening the sauce without dulling the flavor. A hint oflemon zest and the savory,

start of the recipe to help draw excess moisture from the greens.

nutty Comte cheese make this dish bold enough to stand alone.

INGREDIENT

WEIGHT

VOLUME

SCALING

PROCEDURE

Baby spinach, washed Neutral-tasting oil Salt

600g 20g

100% 3% 0.3%

10 cups 25 mL / 1Yz Tbsp Y, tsp

24 g

1Y, Tbsp

Shallots, minced Neutral-tasting oil

20g 20g

2Y, Tbsp 25 mL / 1Y, Tbsp

3% 3%

Mascarpone

100g

Y, cup

17%

0 Stir into the mixture until melted, and then remove it from the heat.

Whole milk, col d Xanthan gum

80g 0.4g

80 mL / YJ cup

13% 0.07%

® ®

o/a cup

@ Fold into the warm, creamed sp inach just before serving.

Yz tsp

0.08%

Pressure-Cooked Garlic Confit, mashed (or Dijon mustard)

0 ® 0 ® ®

Work ing in batches, saute over medium-high heat until the spinach is wilted, about 1 minute. Alternatively, steam it until just tender. Coo l the spinach complete ly. Squeeze it in cheesecloth or in the bottom of a sieve to remove excess liqu id . Chop it fin e ly. Saute until the shal lots become translucent, about 2 minutes . Stir in the chopped sp inach, and cook for 3 minutes.

see page 126

Comte che ese, 40g finely grated Lemon zest, finely grated 0.5g Slack pepper, ground Salt

to taste to taste

If xanthan gum isn't available, you can substitute 2 g/ Y, tsp of Ultra-Sperse 3 or Wondra for the xanthan gum in step 8. Ultra-Sperse 3 is made from precooked tapioca and has better flavor release than products based on wheat or cornstarch.

Whisk together in a bowl. Mix the milk mixture into the prepared spinach, and bring it to a simmer.

@ Season the spinach, and serve it warm.

VAR IAT ION: South Indian Watercress In steps 1- 4, use watercress in place of some or all of the spinach. At step 5, saute 40 g / 4 Tbsp of minced shal lots and 5 g / 2Yz tsp of black mustard seed in 25 g/ 25 mL / 2 Tbsp of mustard oil. Omit steps 7- 10. Instead, stir 30 g / 2Yz Tbsp each of coconut milk and coconut cream into the greens, remove the mixture from the heat, and continue with step 11. Garnish the dish with yo ung coconut and finely sliced mint leaves.

GRILLED STEAK YIELD: TIME ESTIMATE: STORAGE NOTES : LEVEL OF D IFFI C ULTY: SPEC IAL REQUIREMENTS :

four servings (1 kg/ 2 steaks) 20 hours overall, including 1 hour ofpreparation and 10 hours unattended serve immediately advanced (temperature control) charcoal grill

Cooking steaks on the backyard barbecue is so festive and social that people tend to overlook the quality of the result. Try the Modernist technique described here to capture the aroma and appearance of a grilled steak with the succulent, even results oflow-temperature cooking. The trick is to maintain a very low and even temperature on the grill. You can accomplish this by partially freezing the steaks INGREDIENT

WEIGHT

VOLUME

SCALING

Beef strip steaks at least 2.5 cm / 1 in thick

1 kg/ 2.2 1b

2 la rge

100%

Neutral fry ing oil

as needed

before you give them an initial sear on a hot grill. Then let them thaw off the grill while the coals smolder. The final cooking is done slowly over indirect h eat a nd on a cool, buffering layer of sliced onions (or another root vegetable). The onions won't be fully cooked at this point, but they will have some of the grilled-beef flavor, so you can quickly sear or saute them, and then serve them as a side dish. PROCEDURE

0 Place th e steaks on a baking sheet, a nd freeze for 40 minutes.

0 ®

@ Brush ge nero usly onto a ll sid es of th e partially froze n stea ks. ® Grill the stea ks ove r ve ry hot coals until ma rke d a nd we ll seared, a bout 1 minute per side. ® Transfe r to a rack placed on a bak ing sheet, and leave at room te mpe rature until co mpl etely thawed, a bout1 hour.

see page xxii

Sweet onions

1.2 kg

Flaky salt (Maldon brand) to taste

Whil e the stea ks freeze, build a large fire in a charcoal grill. Wh e n th e coa ls a re gray and ashy, bank th e m to on e sid e of the grill. Place a clea n rack over the coa ls to preheat fo r at least 10 minutes.

3-4m edium

120%

0 ®

Cut the onio ns into slices 1 cm/:Ys in thi ck. Adju st th e airfl ow of th e grill so that the coa ls maintain a low, eve n smolder. Place a steel pan full of ice opposite the ban ked coals. ® Arrange a bed of o ni on slices on th e grill rack, above th e ice. Place the stea ks on the o ni on sli ces. @ Cook th e stea ks cove red, flippin g and rotating th em eve ry 5 minutes, until th ey reach a n inte rn al te mpe rature of 50 "C/ 122 "F, 30-40 minutes. @ Re move the stea ks from th e grill, a nd let the m res t for 5 minutes. @ Season th e steaks genero usly. Slice th e meat, and se rve it imme diate ly.

Pl ace the steaks on a ba king sheet, a nd freeze fo r40 minutes. Th e goa l is to freeze only th e oute r 1 em I ¥a in, so that the surface can be sea re d without cooking th e interior.

Whil e th e stea ks freeze, build a large fire in a charcoal grill. Wh e n most of th e coals are compl ete ly cove red with gray ash, bank the m to on e side of th e grill. Th is creates a more intense heat source for sea ring the meat.

Place a cl ean rack ove r the coa ls to pre heat for at least 10 minutes.

If you prefer a different degree of doneness, use the table on page 192 to select the appropriate target core temperature.

2 00

MODERNIST CUISINE AT HOME

the oil.

sheet, and leave at room temperature until

Brush all sid es of the steaks gene ro usly w ith

Grill the steaks over ve ry hot coa ls until they are marked and well seared, about1 minute per side.

A rrange the onion sli ces on the coo l sid e oft he rack, over the pan of ice. Pl ace the stea ks on the onion sli ces. The onions act as a buffer from the direct heat of the grill rack and the radiant heat of

Pl ace the steaks on a ra ck over a bak ing co mpl ete ly thawed, abo ut1 hour.

Cut t he onions into sl ices 1 em I :Ya in thick.

Adj ust the airfl ow of the gri ll so that the coa ls maintain a low, eve n smolder whi le the steaks are thawing. You will need to add abo utthree coals eve ry 10 minutes to maintain an eve n temperature. Opening and closing the ve nt eve ry time you add coa ls also helps remove the ash and keep the air flowing over the hot coa ls. Pl ace a steel pan full of ice oppos ite the banked coa ls under the grilling surface. The slow melting and evaporatio n of the ice moderates the temperature for more even cooki ng.

the coals. Use an ove n thermometer or infrared th ermom eter to check the air temperature of the closed gri ll at the leve l of the steaks; it shou ld be about 80 •c / 176 •F.

Cook the steaks cove red. Fl ip and rotate them every 5 minutes, and remove them from the grill w hen th ey reach an intern al temperature of 50 •c / 122 •F for med ium rare, 30 -40 minutes. The co re temperature changes slow ly at first, but then ri ses more quickly. When the co re reaches 43 •c / 11 0 •F, check the steaks freq uently to avo id overcooking them. The steaks will co nt inu e to cook after th ey are removed from th e heat, and should reach a final core temperature of abo ut 54 •c / 129 •F.

them rest for 5 minutes.

to taste. Slice the meat, and serve it

Remove th e steaks from t he grill. Let

Season th e steaks generou sly with sa lt imm ed iate ly.

2 01

GRILLED PORK CHOP YIELD: TIME ESTIMATE: STORAGE NOTES: LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY: SPECIAL REQUIREMENTS: GOES WELL WITH:

Jour to eight servings (1 kg I Jour pork chops) 1 hour 30 minutes overall, including 1 hour unattended serve immediately moderate sous vide setup, charcoal grill, portable Jan or hair dryer Grilled Applesauce (see page 124), Shiitake Marmalade (see page 151), Chinese Garlic Chili Condiment (see page 261)

Poor grilled pork chops! People often feel obligated to cook them

low-temperature cooking with high-temperature searing. In this

into dry pieces ofleather for safety reasons-but, as we explained

recipe, we suggest using a hair dryer to fan the coals so that they

in Modernist Cuisine, this concern is outdated. Pork today is as

become extremely hot just before you sear the meat. Be aware that

safe as beef, and should be served done to juicy perfection and

some ash will blow off the coals at first, and the embers will then

with a crisp crust-a result you can get every time by combining

burn much faster than usual, so do not leave the grill unattended.

INGREDIENT

WEIGHT

VOLUME

SCALING

PROCEDURE

Pork chops, loin end, bone in, at least 2.5 cm / 1 in th ick Neutral frying oil

1.8kg/ 41b

41arge

100%

40g

45 mL / 3Tbsp

200g

220 mL / 1 cup

11%

see page xxii

Rendered bacon fat or neutral frying oil

of oil. Use the water-displacement method (see page 58) to remove as much air as possible from the bag, and seal it. Cook sous vide to a core temperature of 56 •c / 133 •F, about 1 hour.

0 While the pork chops are cook ing, build a large fire in a charcoa l grill.

® ® 0 ® ®

When the coa ls are gray and ashy, bank them to one sid e. Place a clean rack over the coa ls to preheat for at least 10 minutes. Warm the bacon fat gently until it is just melted. Remove the pork chops from the bags, and pat them dry. Brush the bacon fat generously over all sides of the pork chops. @ Hold a hair dryer underneath the gril l, with the grill vents open, and aim the airflow at the coa ls. @ Sear the pork chops over the very hot coals until they are marked by the rack, 30-60 seconds. Flip the chops over, and sear the other sides. @ Turn off the hair dryer, and allow the chops to rest for 3 minutes.

see pagel23

Sa lt

Preheat a water bath to 57 •c / 135 •F.

0 Place each pork chop in a separate zip-top bag with 10 g/ 15 mL / 1 Tbsp

@ Cut the pork from the bone, and slice it if desired. Season the meat,

to taste

and serve it hot.

Any of the methods listed in the table on page 192 for cooking steak work for pork chops as we ll.

You can turbocharge your grill for fast searing by opening the bottom vents and then holding a hair dryer below it. Aim the airstream through the coals, and watch them glow as the burning accelerates. For more grilling tips, see page 47.

202

MODERNIST CUISINE AT HOME

9 SO U S VIDE LAMB SKEWERS YIELD: TIME EST IMATE: STORAGE NOTES: LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY: SPECIAL REQUIREMENTS:

four servings (300 g) 10 hours overall, including 30 minutes ofpreparation and 1 hour unattended serve immediately moderate so us vide setup (optional), 1 L whipping siphon, four cartridges of nitrous oxide, blowtorch, metal or bamboo skewers, sumac tively, try using beef, pork, chicken, or other meats (see page 192

Pressure-marinating infuses flavor from a liquid into meat, and it can tenderize tough cuts in as little as 20 minutes. Ifyou are in a hurry, you

for cooking temperatures and page 262 for other skewer recipes).

can cook these skewers straight from raw on a hot grill in 3-4 minutes. Although lamb loin, which we call for here, is the most flavorful and tender cut, lamb leg or top round can be used instead. Alterna-

Sumac-a tart, red spice used in Native American and Middle Eastern cuisines-provides a distinctive flavor in this recipe; you can find it at Mediterranean markets.

INGR ED IENT

WE IG HT

VOLUME

SCA LI NG

PROCEDU RE

Tomato ju ice Red onion, thi nly sli ced Salt Extra-virgin oli ve oil Ga rl ic, crushed

300g 75g 21 g 9g 6g 3g 3g 3g 0 .8g 0.3g

320 mL/ 1YJ cups Vs cup 2Tbsp 10 ml/ 2 tsp 2 cloves 2-3 sprigs 1 large sprig 3 mL /Y2 tsp Y.. tsp 1-21eaves

100% 25% 7% 3% 2% 1% 1% 1% 0.27% 0.1 %

CD 0 ®

Orega no sprigs Rosemary sprigs Lemon juice Sumac Fresh bay leaves Lamb lo in, cut into 2.5 cm / 1 in cubes

300 g/ 0.71b

100%

0 ® ®

Preheat a water bath to 58 •c / 136 •F. Comb ine. Pour into a 1 Lsiphon, and charge the siphon with two cartridges of nitrous oxide. Alternative ly, marinate the meat, covered, for 6-12 hou rs, and then skip to step 10. Shake the siphon well, and then leave it to infuse for 20 minutes. Depressurize the siphon carefu lly by aiming the nozzle upward and slow ly re leasing the gas . Strain, reserving the marinade. Discard the solids.

0 Combine with the marinade in a 1 Lsiphon, and charge the siphon with two cartridges of nitrous oxide. Shake well, and then refrigerate for 20 minutes to marinate. Depressurize the siphon . @ Remove the meat from the marinade, and place it in a zip-top bag. Use the water-displacement method to remove as much air as possib le from the bag (see page 58), and sea l it. @ Cook the meat so us vide to a core temperature of 57 •c / 135 •F, about 25 minutes.

® ®

Red pearl onions, peeled and cut in ha lf

80 g

8-10 onions

27%

@ Cook in boiling water until just cooked through, about 3 minutes.

Cool, and set aside. @ Thread the lamb pieces and onion ha lves onto skewe rs. @ Brown the meat by using a blowtorch, or sear it on a grill or in a very hot saute pan for 15 seconds on each side. Serve the skewers hot. Safety tipsfor blowtorching: see poge IS

TO MAKE AHEAD After step 13, seal the skewers in zip-top bags. When ready to serve, heat the skewers in a 58 •c ; 136 • F bath for15 minutes. Continue with step 14.

STEA K

203

10 HOW TO Form a Square Hamburger Patty When the hamburger was first invented, it was a square, pressed patty on toasted wh ite bread. The techn ique shown here re-creates that a uth e nti c form . You ca n, of course, make the patties round if you w ill

be serving them on buns. Whatever the shape, the patty should be neither too dense nor too loose-just tight e nough to hold its sha pe but friable enough to be p leasantly juicy as it crumbl es in yo ur mouth.

By Hand o r in a Squ are Cake Mo ld

In a Loaf Pan or Bakin g Tray

Line a loaf pan or baking tray w ith plastic wrap.

Press the ground meat into the pan. Use a rubber spatula to pack the meat evenly. Take care not to mash the meat so much that the patties lose their tenderness. If using a baking tray (2a), pack the meat to a depth of2 .5 cm / 1 in. If using a loaf pan (2b), pack the meat as deep as the pan is wide.

Cove r the meat with plastic wrap. The covering guards aga inst oxidation and prevents a skin from forming on the meat.

Put the meat in a free zer for 25 minutes to firm.

Divide the meat into 200 g / 0.4lb portions . To sha pe the patty, place one hand edgew ise on the counter, thumb up, and use your othe r hand to press the meat aga inst the raised palm. Rotate four times to form a square patty. If making round patties, cup your upturned hand into an arc.

For cleaner edges, insert the meat into a cake mold, and use a spatu la to gently wo rk the meat into the corners .

Place the patty on a baking tray, and press down gently w ith yo ur palm or a rubber spatu la to flatten the top and bottom.

Slide the meat out of the baking tray, and cut it into squares (Sa), or remove it from the loaf pan, and sli ce it into patt ies 2.5 cm / 1 in thick (Sb).

CH EESEBURGER

20 7

MODERNIST HAMBURGER PATIY YIELD : TIME ESTIMATE: STORAGE NOTES : LEVEL OF D IF FICULTY: SPECIAL REQUIREMENTS :

Jour patties, 200 g each 2 hours overall, including 1J4 hours ofpreparation and 45 minutes unattended serve immediately moderate meat grinder or stand mixer with meat-grinding attachment, sous vide setup

The extra effort to grind your own meat (see page 206) pays off in superior textures and flavors-and it allows you to customize the leanness and the tenderness. We love a combination of short-rib meat, rib eye, and hanger steak, but we know people w ho prefer 100% short-rib patties. For other options, see the table on page 206. We performed many trials to figure out b oth when to salt the meat and how much salt to use. More salt makes for bouncier meat, like INGREDIENT

WEIGHT

Boneless rib eye Bon e less short-rib meat Hanger stea k

360 g/ 0.8 1b 360g / 0.81b 80 g/ 0.21b

Sa lt

6.4g

VOLUME

JY, tsp

a sausage p atty, but adding the salt too early can make the burger tough or rubbery. Although we briefly deep-fry our patties to create a nice crust without overcooking the meat, another approach is to use a blowtorch (see page 14) to sear all the sides of the patty to a dark brown, 11/2-2 m inutes per patty. Alternatively, sear the patties on a very hot grill for 30 seconds on each side.

SCA LING

PROCEDURE

100% 100% 22%

1.8%

® 0

® Neutral frying oi l

20g

20 mL / lY2 tsp

5.6%

see page xx ii

0 ®

Trim the fat from the meat, and grind eac h meat and fat sepa rate ly through a 4.5 mm I :Y,• in plate. Mix the gro und meats and fats together gently, a nd refrige rate them until 1 hour before cooking. Preh eat a water bath to 55 "C/ 131 "F. Fold the sa lt ge ntly in to the grou nd beef mixture exactly 1 hour before cooking. Divide the meat into four equa l portions, about 200 g / 0.4lb each. Form into square patties that are 2.5 cm / 1 in thick (see previous page). Place each patty in a separate zip-top bag with 5 g/ 5 mL/ 1 tsp of oil. Remove the air from the bags by using the wate r-disp lace me nt method (see page 58), and sea l them. Do not vacuum sea l. Refrigerate until1 hour has passed since add ing the salt. Cook so us vide to a core temperature of 54 "C/ 129 "F, abo ut 45 minutes.

Neutral frying oil

as needed

Salt

to taste

@ Season the patties genero usly, and serve them hot.

Fil l a large, deep pot no more than half fu ll of frying oi l, and preheat the oi l to 220 ·c; 428 "F. @ Transfer the patties to a tray lined wit h paper towe ls, and pat them dry. @ Deep-fry the patties one at a tim e until they turn dark brown and crispy, about 30 seconds each. @ Drain the patties on paper towe ls. Safety tipsfardeepfrying: see page 26 Safety tipsfor lightly cookedfood: see page xxv

SPECIAL SCALING FOR SALT If yo u're making small e r or larger batches, dete rmin e th e amount of sa lt to use for curing by multiplying 0.8% tim es the weight of th e meat. For exa mpl e, ifma king1.6 kg / 3.51b of meat, use 12.8 g of sa lt.

208

Trim the fat from the rib eye, short-rib meat, and hanger stea k, and then gri nd each kind of meat and fat sepa rate ly through a 4.5 mm / :Y•• in plate. For step-by-ste p instru ctions, see page 206.

MODERNIST CUISINE AT HOME

Mix the gro un d meats and fats together, and refrigerate them until1 hour before cooking.

Preheat a water bath to 55 "C/ 131 "F.

VARIATION: Firm Burger Patty If yo u prefer burgers that are riche r in fl avor and more cohes ive, ad d 15 g of egg yo lk (1 yo lk) for eve ry 400 g/ 0.91b of gro und meat at th e same tim e yo u add the sa lt in step 4. Continue with stepS.

Wait until exactly 1 hour before cooking, note the time, and then fold the salt gently into the ground beef mixture . Salt activates the binding properties of the meat, and folding it in makes the meat more homogeneous in texture . Do not stir the meat aggress ive ly or for long periods; doing so diminishes its tenderness.

Weigh and divide the meat into four equa l portions of about 200 g / 0.41b each. Form eac h portion into a square patty 2.5 cm / 1 in thick. For step -by-step in structions, see page 207. If serving on buns rather than bread, make the patties round.

Place each patty in its own zip-top bag, and pour 5 g / 5 ml / 1 tsp of o il into each bag. Use the water-displacement method (see page 58) to remove as much air as possible from the bags, and sea l them. Do not vacuum seal the bags, as doing so compresses the meat so much that it becomes denser and less juicy.

Refrigerate until1 hour has passed sin ce you added the salt. After an hour of curing, the burgers w ill hold together well whi le remaining crumb ly and tender to the bite. Overcuring produces a tougher cons istency that is more like a sausage patty.

Cook the patties so us vide to a co re temperature of 54 •c / 129 •F, abo ut 45 minutes.

Fill a large, deep pot no more than half full of frying oil, and preheat it to 220 •c; 428 •F.

Remove the cooked patties from the bags, place them on a tray lined with paper towels, and pat them dry.

Deep-fry each patty individually until it becomes dark brown and crispy, about 30 seconds per patty.

12 13 CHEESEBURGER

Drain the fried patties on paper towe ls. Season the patties generous ly with sa lt, and serve them hot. To make cheeseburgers, see page 212.

209

WHITE SANDWICH BREAD YIELD: TIME ESTIMATE : STORAGE NOTES: LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY: SPECIAL REQU IREMENTS :

one 40 em by 12 em/ 16 in by 4 in loaf or two 23 em by 13 cm/9 in by 5 in loaves (1 .5 kg) 4 hours overall, including 30 minutes ofpreparation and 30 hours unattended keeps for 2 days moderate stand mixer with paddle and dough hook attachments, loaf pan, buttermilk powder

We included a recipe for the ultimate burger bun in Modernist Cuisine, but frankly it requires a lot of work to make. At home, we either buy top-quality buns or rolls from a local bakery or we take the oldschool-diner approach of making a white bread that we can broil or pan fry. The juices from the burger combine nicely with the crispy

Try this recipe with different flours and flavors, such as a whole wheat loaf with caramelized onions. Leave the seeds out for a classic dense, chewy white loaf. It is also a fantastic bread to use for Grilled Cheese Sandwiches (see page 318), especially if you use one of our recipes for constructed cheese slices (see page 317).

texture of the toast . INGREDI ENT

WEIGHT

VOLUME

SCALING

PROCEDURE

Water Unsalted butter Buttermilk powder or no nfat milk powder

460g 125g

460 mL / 2 cups

54% 15%

Cooking spray or oi l All-p urp ose flour

as needed as needed

All-p urpose flour

850g

5cups

100%

@ Measure half (425 g/ 21h cups) of the fl our into the bowl of a stand mixer having a paddle attachment. Reserve the remaining flour for step 8.

Sugar Sa lt Active dry yeast Baking soda

50g 15g

Y.. cup 5 tsp ltsp

® ® 0

Combine with the flour in the mixing bowl. Mix on low speed while gradually pouring in the buttermilk mixture. Beat on low speed for 5 minutes.

Y.. tsp

6% 2% 0.4% 0.1 %

Rese rved flour, from above

425 g

2Y2 cups

50%

Switch to the dough hook, and continu e to mix at low speed. Grad ually mix in the remaining flour until it is ful ly in co rporated. Knead on medium speed for 8 minu tes.

Black sesame seeds

15 g 15g

2Tbsp 2Tbsp

2% 2%

50g

3g 1g

o/a cup Y.. cup

0 ®

® Poppy seeds

Combine th e water, butter, and butterm il k powder in a pot. Warm the mixture over low heat, wh isk ing occas ionally, un til the butter melts and the buttermi lk powder is ful ly blended .

Remove the mixture from the heat, and a llow it to cool to roo m te mp erature.

Lightly coat the loaf pan with cook ing spray or oi l, and dust the pan lightly with flour.

210

4 5

Comb in e in a pot. Warm over low heat, whisking occas iona ll y, un til the butter melts and the butterm il k powder is fu lly blend ed. Cool to room temperature. Lightly coat the pan with cook ing spray or wipe it with oil, and then dust the pan with flour.

@ Sprinkle in the seeds, mixing at low speed until they are even ly dispersed. @ Transfer the kneaded dough to a lightly floured work surface. Shape it into a rectangle about the size and shape of the loaf pan. @ Place the dough in the prepared pan, and cover it with plastic wrap or a clean, dry dish towel. @ Let the dough rise in a warm, draft-free e nvi ronm e nt until it has doubled in size, 2-3 hours. @ Preheat the oven to 190 "C/ 375 "F. @ Bake the dough until the top turns eve nly go lden, 15-20 minutes. @ Remove the loaf from the pan immediate ly, put it on a rack, and cool it co mpl etely before slicing.

Measure half of the flour into the bowl of a stand mixer, and reserve the other half for step 8. Affix a paddle attachment to the mixer. Combine the suga r, salt, dry yeast, and baking soda with the flour in the mixing bowl.

MODERNIST CU I SINE AT HOME

8 6

Mix on low speed wh ile gradually pou ring in the room-temperature butte rmil k mixture.

Co ntinu e beating o n low speed for 5 minutes more. Gluten, a protein in the fl our, develops the structure ofthe dough as th e kneading progresses.

9 1o

Knead on medium speed for 8 minutes.

Sprinkle in the seeds, and mix at low speed until they are even ly dispersed.

Transfer the kneaded dough to a lightly floured wo rk surface. Shape it into a rectangle about the size and shape of the loafpan.lfyou are using two loaf pans, divide th e dough in half before shaping the pieces.

Replace the paddle attachm ent with a dough hook. Start kneading at medium speed, and gradua lly mix in the remaining flour until fully in co rp o rated. If the dough does n't pull away from the sid e of the bowl once all th e fl our has bee n mixed in, add small amounts of flour unti l it do es .

Place th e dough in the prepared pan, and cover it w ith plastic wrap or a clean, dry di sh towel.

Put the pan in a draft-free place at about 24 ' C/ 75 ' F, and allow the dough to rise until it has doubled in size, 2-3 hours. This is a slow-rising dough; don't rush it.

This recipe works better with all-purpose flour than with bread flour.

Preheat th e oven to 190 ' C/ 375 ' F.

Bake the bread until the top turns an even golden co lo r, 15-20 minutes.

Remove the bread fro m the pan immediately. Set it o n a rack, and let it cool completely before you sli ce it.

CHEESEB URGER

211

MODERNIST CHEESEBURGER YIELD: TIME ESTIMATE : STORAGE NOTES: LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY: SPECIAL REQUIREME NTS :

four burgers 10 minutes for assembly of components serve immediately easy White Sandwich Bread (see page 210), Modernist Hamburger Patty (see page 208), Perfectly Melting Cheese Slice (see page 317), MC Special Sauce (see page 109) or Pressure-Caramelized Ketchup (see page 110)

The original hamburger was served on toasted white bread with

replace them with lettuce, grilled mushrooms, thinly sliced raw

little else. We're paying homage to that tradition, but you can of

onions, or thick slices of pickle. Use this guide as a template for your

course use store-bought buns instead. If tomatoes are not in season,

favorite burger combinations.

INGREDIENT

WEIGHT

White Sandwich Bread, sliced 1 cm /Ys in thick

VOLUME

PROCEDURE

8 sli ces

CD 0 ®

4 patties

@ Pl ace the cooked burger patties on a bak ing sheet, an d top each with

see page210

Rendered beef fat or unsalted butter, melted

as needed

Pre heat the broiler. Brush fat eve nly over o ne sid e of each sli ce of bread. Toast the bread, fat-side up, und e r the broile r until it turns go lden brow n, abo ut 2 minutes.

see page 123

Modernist Hamburge r Patty see page208

Perfectly Melting Cheese Slice

one or two sli ces of cheese. Broil until the cheese melts, 1-2 minutes.

4-8 sli ces

see page 317

MC Spe cial Sauce or Pressure-Caramelized Ketchup

BOg

STbsp

see page 109 o rllO Tomato or sweet onion,

Divide even ly among four slices of the pre pared bread, a nd top with the cheeseburger patties and re main ing bread. Serve imm ediately.

4 thick slices

sli ced

212

MODERNIS T CUISINE AT HOME

!" .

•

)

10 ULTRAFROTHY MILK SHAKE YIELD: TIME ESTIMATE: STORAGE NOTES: LEVEL OF D IFFICULTY: SPECIAL REQU IREMENTS:

Jour to eight servings (1 L I 41,4 cups) H2 hours overall, including 10 minutes ofpreparation and 1 hour and 20 minutes unattended serve immediately easy albumin powder, whey protein isolate, Freeze-Dried Raspberry Powder (see page 377)

This shake tastes like the milk itself, so we use fresh raw milk from

strawberries. You can also add flavors directly to the milk, for

a local dairy. You can use regular supermarket milk instead, but it

example by stirring in 5 g I 5 mL I 1 tsp of vanilla extract to make

won't have the same subtle flavors. Use half-and-half, or a mixture

a rich vanilla shake. But we prefer the pure milk flavor.

of heavy cream and milk, to make a richer shake.

To avoid any unpleasant flavor, use only high-quality, deodorized

We garnish this shake with Freeze-Dried Raspberry Powder, but

whey protein isolate, available at health-food stores or online.

good alternatives include cocoa powder, malt powder, and powdered INGREDIENT

WEIG HT

VOLUME

SCALING

PROCEDURE

Fresh, raw whole milk Sugar Albumin powder Whey protein isolate Salt

1 kg 180g 20g lO g as needed

1 L/ 4\4 cups 1\4 cups 3Tbsp 1 Tbsp

100% 18% 2% 1%

0 Combine in a metal or glass bowl, and blend by using an immersion

Freeze-Dried Raspbe rry Powder

lOg

4tsp

blender until the sugar and powders are fully in corporated. Refrige rate forT hour to hydrate the powders. This step is esse ntial fo r the shake to foam properly. ® Prepare an ice bath, and stir lots of sa lt into th e bath. 0 Place the contai ner of coo led mi lk into the salted ice bath for 20 minutes. ® Blend the ch ill ed mi lk at high speed in a blenderfor3 min utes to aerate it.

Pour the milk shake into small, chi ll ed glasses, dust the berry powder over the shakes, and serve them immediately.

see page377

Safety tipsfor lightly cookedfood: see page xxv

CHEESEBURGER

213

WHILE YOU ' RE AT IT

MODERNIST MEATLOAF SANDWICH Jour sandwiches (about 200 g each) 130 hours overall, including 1 hour ofpreparation and 120 hours unattended serve immediately moderate meat grinder or stand mixer with meat-grinding attachment, so us vide setup, Sweet Onion Slaw (see page 165)

YIELD: TIME ESTIMATE: STORAGE NOTES: LEVEL OF D IFF ICULTY: SPECIAL REQUIREMENTS:

Leftover meatloaf often ends up in a sandwich. But we think this delicious next-day treat is a worthy dish in its own right. We use several tricks to make it great. First, salt-cure the meat before grinding it to draw out the sticky myosin protein that improves the texture of the meatloaf and reduces the amount of egg needed as a binder. The INGRED IENT

VOLUME

WE IG HT

SCA LI NG

meatloaf should be denser and springier than a burger. Second, keep the meat juicy by cooking it sous vide. And finally, flash-fry each portion of meat to produce a perfect, just-baked crust. You can substitute a fatty cut of beef, such as short-rib meat, for the pork to make an all-beef meatloaf; just keep the overall fat content about the same. PROCEDURE (j) Toss together in a shallow co ntainer until thoroughly co mbin ed, cover with cheesecloth, and cure in the refrigerator overnight (abo ut 12 hours). 0 Grind through a 4.5 mm /¥16 in plate.

Beef chuck, cut into 2.5 cm / 1 in cubes Pork shou lder, cut into 2.5 cm / 1 in cubes Salt

400 g/ 0.91b

100%

120 g / 0 .31b

30%

11,4 tsp

1.25%

Sweet onion, grated Neutra l frying oil

200g lO g

1 cup 10 mL / 2 tsp

50% 2.5%

Ketchup (store-bought) Egg, beaten Dry bread crumbs Asian fish sa uce Dijon mustard Worcestershire sauce Parmesan, grated Black pepper, ground

32g 20g lOg lOg 8g 8g 4g 2g

2Tbsp 1 Tbsp l Y2 Tbsp 8mL / Y2 Tbsp 2 tsp 7 mL /Y, Tbsp 1 Tbsp Y2 tsp

8% 5% 2.5% 2.5% 2% 2% 1% 0.5%

® ® 0

Combine with the coo led on ion. Add the ground meat, and mix thoroughly. Divide the meat mixture into four eq ual portions of about 160 g each, a nd form into patties 2 cm /'!4 in thick.

Neutral frying oil

20g

20 mL/ l Y, Tbsp

Place each patty in a separate zip-top bag with 5 g/ 5 mL / 1 tsp of oil. Use the water-displacement method (see page 58) to remove the air from the bags, and sea l them . Do not vacuum sea l. Cook so us vide to a core temperature of 59 "C/ 138 "F, abo ut 35 minutes.

Neutral frying oil Dry bread crumbs

as needed 120 g

1 cup

30%

190 "C/ 374 "F. @ Transfer the cooked patties to a tray lined with paper towels, and pat dry. @ Coat the warm patties in bread crumbs. @ Deep-fry the breaded patties one at a tim e until each turns dark brown and crisp, about 30 seconds per patty. @ Drain the patties on paper towels.

Sweet Onion Slaw

110 g

l YJ cups

28%

@ Divide the patties and onion slaw evenly amo ng the bread slices. Serve

aboutl2 minutes, and then allow it to cool.

see page xxii

@ Fill a deep pot with about 5 cm / 2 in of frying oil, and preheat the oil to

immediately.

see page165

White sandwich bread, toasted

Preheat a water bath to 60 "C/ 140 "F.

0 Saute the onion over medium heat until it turns dry but not brown,

8 sli ces

see page 210

Safety tipsfor deep frying: see page 26 Safety tipsfor lightly cookedfood: see page xxv

Toss the beef and pork pi eces with salt until thoroughly combined. Pl ace the salted meat in a shallow co ntainer, cover it with cheesecloth, and cure the meat in the refrigerator overnight (about 12 hours). The cheesecloth keeps the surface of the meat from drying out. The meat pieces, before (left) and after salting.

214

MODERNIST CUISINE AT HOME

10 3 4

Preheat a water bath to 60 •c / 140 •F.

Saute the onion in oil over medium heat until it becomes dry but not brown, about 12 minutes. Allow the onion to coo l comp letely.

2 :y,6

Grind the cured meat through a 4.5 mm / in plate.

Combi ne the cooked onion with the ketchup, beaten egg, bread crumbs, fish

Add the ground meat to the onions and seasonings, and mix them thoroughly.

sauce, mustard, Worcestershire sauce, Parm esan cheese, and black pepper.

Form the meatloaf mix into four even patties (ro und o r sq uare) of about 160 g each. We find that patties no more than 2.5 cm / 1 in thick coo k most even ly, and the sandwich is eas iest to eat if the patties are abo ut 2 em I :Y., in thick.

Place each patty in a separate zip-top bag with aboutS g / 5 ml/ 1 tsp of oil. Use the water-displacement method (see page 58) to remove as much air as possible from the bags, and sea l them.

While the patties cook, pour eno ugh frying o il into a deep pot to reach a depth of abo ut 5 cm / 2 in. Preheat the oil to 190 •c / 374 •F. Alternatively, preheat 6 mm /Y., in of oil in a deep-sided skillet.

Remove th e coo ked patties from th eir bags, place them on a tray lined with

Do not vacuum sea l the bags; yo u don't want to comp ress the meat. You ca n also use this recipe to make plated meatloaf. In that case, we still recommend cooking and searing the meatloaf in individual portions. Serve it with Pressure-Caramelized Ketchup (see page 110).

Cook the patti es sous vide to a co re te mperature of 59 •c / 138 •F, about 35 minutes.

Coat the warm patties in dry bread crumbs.

Deep-fry th e breaded patties, one at a time, until each becomes dark brown

paper towels, and pat them dry.

and crisp, about 30 seconds per patty (or 30 seconds per sid e if panfrying).

14 15

CH EE SEBURG ER

Drain the frie d patties on paper towe ls.

Assemble the sa ndwi ches by d ivid ing the hot patties and onion slaw eve nly among the bread slices. Serve them imm ediately.

215

PRESSURE-COOKED CARNITAS YIELD: TIME ESTIMATE: STORAGE NOTES: LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY: SPEC IAL REQUIREMENTS : GOES WELL W ITH:

six to eight servings (1 kg/ 4 cups) 1~ hours overall, including 15 minutes ofpreparation and 1 hour unattended keeps for 5 days when refrigerated or up to 6 months when frozen easy pressure cooker, achiote paste, Brown Pork Stock (see variation on page 86) Pressure-Cooked Fresh-Corn Tamales (see page 340), Salsa Verde (see page 111)

Carnitas are traditionally made by slowly cooking big chunks of pork in vats oflard. Our recipe reduces both the fat and the cooking time-but not the flavor-by using a pressure cooker. We cut pork shoulder (commonly called pork butt or Boston butt) into bite-size INGREDIENT

WEIGHT

Boneless, skinless pork should er, cut into 2.5-3 cm / 1-1V. in cubes Brown Pork Stock

1.3 kg/2.91b

VOLUME

pieces and use them as a filling for our Pressure-Cooked Fresh-Corn Tamales. Alternatively, shred the meat and use it to fill burritos or tacos. If you have a large pressure cooker, consider doubling the recipe; carnitas freeze very well.

SCALING

PROCEDURE

100%

<D Comb ine in a pressure cooke r.

0 460g

460 mL / 2 cups

35%

Pressure-cook at a gauge pressure of1 bar / 15 psi for 30 minutes. Start timing when fu ll pressure is reached. ® Depressurize the cooker. @ Strain the cook ing liquid into a large pot.

15g

1 Tbsp

1.2%

Chipotle chili powder (optiona l)

2.5g

ltsp

0.19%

Salt Lime juice Fresh ci lantro Chili powder

to taste to taste to taste to taste

see variation on page 86

Achiote paste

Stir into the cook ing liquid, a nd cook over high heat until syrupy, about 25 minutes. Add the pork to the reduced liquid, and si mmer over medium-high heat, gently turning and basting the meat until it turns brown and the liquid reduces to a glaze, about 6 minutes.

Season the glazed pork, and serve it warm.

store-bo ught or see th e next page

Safety tipsfor pressure-cooking: see page 33

Combi ne the pork shou lder a nd stock in a pressu re cooke r.

Pressure-cook the meat at a gauge pressure of1 bar / 15 psi for 30 minutes. Start timing as soo n as full pressure has been reac hed .

Strain the cooking liquid into a large pot. If you have time, you can refrigerate the meat and liquid together overnight for added fl avor.

Let the cooker cool, or run tepid water over the rim, to depressurize it.

218

MODERNIST CUISINE AT HOME

Stir the achiote paste and chili powder into th e cooking liquid, and cook over high heat to reduce the liquid by at least two-th irds until it becomes syrupy, about 25 minutes.

Add the pork to the reduced liquid. Simmer it over medium-high heat, gently turning and basting the meat until it browns and the liquid reduces to a glaze, about 6 minutes.

To make shredded carnitas, use two forks to pull the glazed pork cubes apart into strands. Shredding is usually done only for carnitas destined to be a filling for a taco,

VARIATIONS Sous Vide Carnitas Vacuum seal cubes of pork shou ld er with frozen cubes of Brown Pork Stock (see variation on page 86; you can freeze the stock in an ice cube tray), and cook sous vide at 65 â&#x20AC;˘c / 149 â&#x20AC;˘Ffor 36 hours. (To avoid off-flavors, do not use a zip-top bag.) Continue with step 4. Carn itas cooked so us vide are moister and less fl aky than when pressure-cooked.

burrito, or tamale. Garnish with chili powder and cilantro.

WH I LE YOU ' RE AT IT: Achiote Paste Annatto seeds

78g

y, cup

Pressure-Cooked GarlicConfit

40g

3Tbsp

25g

2 peppers 1 Tbsp

see page126

Habaiiero peppers, seeded and stemmed Black peppercorns

Coriander seeds

Y2Tbsp

Cumin seeds

ltsp

Dried oregano

Y2Tbsp

Allspice berries

8 berries

Season the glazed meat with the sa lt, lim e juice, fresh cilantro, and chili powder to taste, and serve it warm.

Whole cloves

0.7g

8 cloves

Orange juice

124g

125 mL /Y2 cup

White wine vinegar

119g

140 ml /

Lemon juice

SOg

50 ml / l4 cup

Tequila

5 ml/ 1 tsp

'/3 cup

Mix the first nine ingredients together, and grind in a coffee grind er. Combine the ground spices w ith the orange juice, vinegar, lemon juice, and tequila in a blender, and blend until smooth.

Whole Shoulder Use bone-in, skin-on pork shoulder for added flavor. Combine 1.3 kg / 2.91b of pork shoulder with 460 g/ 460 ml / 2 cups of Brown Pork Stock (see variation on page 86) in a pressure cooker, and press ure-cook at a gauge pressure of 1 bar / 15 psi for 2 hours. Depressurize the cooker, and then ca refu lly remove the skin to make Pressure-Cooked Chicharr6n (see page 222). Discard the bone. Break up the natural muscle groups of the meat, discarding any excess fat and cartilage. Continue with step 4.

PRESSURE-COOKED CHICHARRON YIELD : TIME ESTIMATE: STORAGE NOTES : LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY: SPECIAL REQUIREMENTS:

200 g/ two large sheets or 20 pieces 120 hours overall, including 30 minutes ofpreparation and 12 hours unattended keeps in an airtight container for 1 day after dehydrating and for 2 days after frying moderate pressure cooker, food dehydrator (optional)

Chicharr6n is pork skin that has been dehydrated, fried, and puffed into crackling. It is an addictive snack or garnish : make plenty, or it may disappear before it gets to the table. You can buy pork skin from m any butchers and at many Asian and Latin American markets.

The key to good chicharr6n is drying the skin by just the right amount before frying it. The dried pieces should at that point flex slightly, and then sn ap in half. If they are too moist or too dry, they will not puff properly in the hot oil.

INGREDIENT

WEIGHT

VOLUME

SCALING

PROCEDURE

Water Pork skin

460 g 450 g/ 11b

46 0 mL / 2 cups 2 1arge pi eces

102% 100%

CD Combin e in a pressure coo ker. 0 Press ure-coo k at a gauge press ure of1 bar / 15 psi for 2 hours. Start timing as soon as full pressure has been reached.

® Let th e cooker coo l, or run tepid water over th e rim, to depressurize it. @) Strain th e skin, and ge ntly scrape any res idual fat from it.

® Dehydrate th e skin at 63 "C/ 145 "F(or as low a temp erature as your oven allows) until the skin fl exes slightly befo re snapping in half, about 10 hours. Neutral frying oil

as needed

see page xx ii

Salt

to taste

® 0 ® ®

Preheat th e fryi ng oil to 190 "C/ 375 "F. Snip or break the dehydrated skin into evenl y sized pieces. Dee p-fry th e pi eces until they puff and turn crispy, about 2 minutes. Drain on paper towels. @ Seaso n th e skin, and se rve it imm ediately, or store it in an airtight co ntain er. Safety tipsfor pressure· cooking: see page 33 Safety tipsfor deep frying: see page 26

Afood dehydrator is the best tool for drying the skin, but if you don't have one, preheat the oven to its lowest temperature setting, arrange the pieces on a rack set over a baking sheet. and dry them until they become leathery and flexible like plastic, 8-10 hours.

Use a butter knife or other blunt utensil to gently scrape the fat from the cooked skin. Take care not to tear the skin.

Deep-fry the skin a few pieces at a time. Work in batches as needed.

222

MODERNIST CUISINE AT HOME

11 REFRIED BEAN FOAM YIELD: TIME ESTIMATE : STORAGE NOTES: LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY: SPECIAL REQUIREMENTS: GOES WELL WITH:

four servings (665 g/ 3~ cups) 10 hours overall, including 30 minutes ofpreparation and 1 hour unattended serve the foam immediately; the puree keeps for up to 1 day when refrigerated easy pressure cookeTj 1 L whipping siphon, three cartridges of nitrous oxide Pressure-Cooked Carnitas (see page 218)

This updated version of the classic Mexican dish combines two

lightness. To prevent splattering, dispense the foam into a con-

Modernist techniques. Pressure-cooking the beans directly from

tainer with high sides, and spoon the beans onto the serving

the dry state and in low-calcium water causes them to burst and

plates. The foam remains stable for only about 10 minutes,

become very tender. We then use a whipping siphon to aerate the

so don't dispense the beans from the siphon until you are ready

perfectly smooth, pudding-like puree into a foam of unearthly

to serve them.

INGREDIENT

WEIGHT

VOLUME

SCALING

PROCEDURE

Brown Pork Stock or bottled water

400g

400 mL / 12/1 cups

267%

:Y.. cup 10 mL/ 2\4 tsp

100% 7%

see variation on page 86

Dry pinto beans 150g Lard or neutral-tasti ng oil lOg

0 0

Heavy crea m

100g

Salt

to taste

110 mL / Y> cup

67%

® ® 0

® ®

Combine in a pressure cooker, and pressure-cook at a gauge pressure ofl bar / 15 psi for1 hour. Start timing as soon as full pressure has been reached . Let the cooker coo l, or run tepid water ove r the rim, to depressurize it. Al low the beans to coo l slightly. Puree the beans and any rema ining stock in a blender until smooth, and pour the pure e into a pot. Wh isk into the bean puree until it takes on a pudding-like co nsiste ncy. Heat the puree over medium heat to 55 °C/ 131 °F, and seaso n it generous ly; the flavor wi ll become more delicate when the puree is foamed . Pour the hot puree into a 1 Lwhipping sip hon, and charge the siphon with three cartridges of nitrous ox id e. Dispense the foam into a deep container to minimize sp latte ring. Spoon the warm foam onto plates.

Safety tipsfar pressure·coaking: see page 33

VARIATIONS Refried Bean Puree At step 5, add only as much heavy cream as is needed to create the texture you prefer, and then follow step 6 to season the puree to taste. Other Bean Foams You can substitute oth e r fats for the lard or substitute other kinds of beans for the pinto beans; as long as the beans contain enough fat and natural starches, they wil l produce a stable foam. Try French flageolet beans with butter; gigante or lima beans with garl ic and olive oil or butter; or chickpeas with tahini for a hummus-style foam . The puree shou ld be perfectly smooth and have a texture similar to pudding before you pour it into the siphon.

Refried beans a re t rad iti o nally made with lard, bu t yo u ca n eas ily make a vegetari an ve rsio n of th is reci pe by cook ing th e bea ns in bottled wate r o r vegetable stock and a ne utral-tasting vegeta bl e oil, such as cocon ut o il. Th e res ul t has a slightly d iffere nt co nsiste ncy a nd fl avor fro m the o rigin al.

TO MAKE AHEAD You can refrige rate the puree d beans for up to 24 hours after step 5. Then continue with step 6. After step 7, you can ke ep the siphon of warm puree in a SO °C/ 122 °Fwater bath for up to 1 hour before dispensing the foam.

CARNITAS

2 23

WHILE YOU ' RE AT IT

PRESSURE-COOKED PORK BELLY ADOBO YIELD : TIME ESTIMATE : STORAGE NOTES : LEVEL OF D IFFI CULTY: SPECIAL REQU IREMENTS:

eight servings (1.2 kg/ 6 cups) 1-M hours overall, including 1 hour ofpreparation and 45 minutes unattended keeps for 3 days when refrigerated moderate pressure cooker

Adobo, from the Old Spanish verb adobar meaning "to stew," can be found throughout the former Spanish colonial empire. But the dish varies from one region to another, reflecting local differences in both the spice mixtures and the stewed, braised, or roasted meats used. The version here is considered a national dish of the Philippines: a boldly seasoned stew of chicken or pork with soy sauce, vinegar, and

plenty of black pepper. Here, we use fresh pork belly, available at specialty butchers, with the skin on to help thicken the cooking liquid and hold the pieces of meat together. You may remove the skin if you prefer the texture without it. Cubed pork shoulder also works as a leaner alternative . Serve the adobo with steamed rice, mashed sweet potatoes (see variation on page 230), or roasted sunchokes.

INGREDIENT

WEIGHT

VOLUME

SCALING

PROCEDURE

Neutral frying oi l or la rd

50g

55 mL/ Y.. cup

3.3%

Yellow onion, grated Garlic cloves, crushed

550 g lOg

2Y, cups 1 Tbsp / 10 cloves

37% 0.7%

Fresh pork belly, skin on, cut into 3.75 cm / 1Y2 in cubes Rice vi nega r Soy sauce As ian fish sauce Sugar Star anise Black peppercorns Fres h bay leaves, torn

1.5 kg / 3.3 lb

230 g 130 g 85g 62g 3g 0.7 g 0.7 g

270 mL / lYs cups 110 mL/Y, cup 70 mL / y, cup 5Tbsp 1-2 pods Y.. tsp 3leaves

15% 8.7% 5.7% 4.1% 0 .2% 0 .04% 0 .04%

Add itiona l fresh bay leaves, torn Add itio nal star a nise Rice vinegar Cracked black pepper

0.7 g

3 leaves

0.04%

3g to taste to taste

1-2 pods

0.2%

Saute over low heat until tender and lightly brown ed, 7-10 minutes.

see page xxii

100%

0 ®

Stir into the onion mixture. Pressure-cook at a gauge pressure of1 bar / 15 psi for 45 minutes. Start timing when ful l pressure is reached. @ Let the cooker coo l, or run tepid water over the rim, to depressurize it. ® Lift the meat fro m the cooking li quid with a slotted spoon, and put it in a frying pan. ® Strain the cook ing liq uid into a pot. Sk im off as much fat as possib le. (j) Transfer 250 g/ 250 mL/ 1 cup of the cooki ng liquid to the pan with the pork belly, and sim mer over medium-high heat, gently turning and basting the meat until it is glazed, 12-15 minutes.

® ®

Add to the pot of remaining cooking liquid, and bring to a boil. Remove from the heat, and let the mixture infuse for 7-10 minu tes. @ Strain. @ Spoon the glazed pork belly into se rving bowls, pour in the infused cook ing liquid, and serve warm. Safety tipsfor pressure-cooking: see page 33

TO MAKE AHEAD Afte r step 4, coo l the pressure-cooked pork be lly a nd cook ing ju ices in the refrigerator overn ight, or freeze them. Gently reheat, and continue with step 5.

224

VARIATION: Sous Vide Pork Belly Adobo Cooking the pork be lly so us vide yields a juicier, less flaky texture than pressure-cook ing does . At step 3, vacuum seal the pieces of pork belly and sa uce mixture. Cook sous vid e at 62 "C/ 144 "F for 48 hours. Continue with step 6.

MODERNIST CUISINE AT HOME

Saute th e grated onion, cru shed garlic, and oil or lard over low heat until the o ni on is tender and lightly brown ed, 7-10 minutes.

Comb in e the pork belly, ri ce vinegar, soy sauce, fish sauce, sugar, and aromatics with th e o nion mixture, and st ir.

Let th e coo ker coo l, or run tep id water over the rim, to depressurize it.

Strain th e cooking liquid into a pot. Skim off as much fat as possible . Fat skimmers, sold at kitchen-supply stores, work we ll.

Lift th e meat from the cooking liquid with a slotted spoon, and put it in a frying pan.

Pressure-cook at a gauge press ure of 1 bar/ 15 psi for45 minutes. Start timing as soon as full pressure has been reac hed.

Transfer 250 g/ 250 mL / 1 cup of coo king liquid to th e pan with th e pork belly. Simmer over med ium-high heat, gently turning and basting until th e meat is brown and th e liquid forms a glaze, 12- 15 minutes.

Add the addition al bay leaves, sta r anise, vinegar, and pepper to the pot of cooking liquid. The fl avor of th e esse ntial oils from the bay leaves weaken during coo king; add ing more now enh ances th e fresh, spi cy fl avor. Bring the liquid to a boil.

Remove the pot from the heat, and let it sit for 7-10 minutes, or until ready to use, to infuse th e flavors.

10 11

Strain the infused li quid.

Spoon the glazed po rk bell y into serving dishes. Pour th e infused liquid overthe top, and serve the adobo warm .

CARNITAS

225

BRAISED SHORT RIBS Seventy-two hours to make dinner? That sounds crazy, we know. But it's actually easy: vacuum seal the short ribs, set them in a water bath, and walk away. The result is so incredible, you won't want to go back to the stove-top version: flipping the meat, and relying on luck. Short ribs are an ideal cut of meat for braising because they're readily available and very tasty, thanks to a nice marbling of fat and collagen throughout. We use them to showcase the range of textures you ~an achieve (see page 228) t~rough the precision of cooking sous vide. But the tech-nique works just as well with rib eye and tough cuts such as oxtail, beef shank, and tongue. _ When slow-cooking meat, keep three things in mind. First, don't salt the meat before sealing it, or it wll~ji"re d"ur!ng t11~]2:. hours, and you' ll wind I!P_~ith corned beef. (You can, however, seal the meat in unsalted beefjus or beef stock to intensify the !>eef flavor.) Second, trim off any gristle and --silversldn; these don'ti et more tender.;ith ~ook~g Third, if you want to sear the meat, do so after

---

.....

- .......

co~.ki~ to avoid pnnliicing off-flavors~nd unappetizing colors.

Our favorite finishing strategy for slow-cooked ~eat is the one described in the short-ribs recipe. We baste the warm m~at for just a minute in a little pot of syrupy sauce (a red wine glaze, in this case) to add an extra touch of flavor and gloss. This warms it through without actually cooking it.

Short ribs are just a start. Our table

Enrich the meat flavor of a glaze by

Best Bets for Cooking Tough Cots

adding dark soy sauce and balsamic

of Meat provides cooking times

vinegar. This saves you from having to

and temperatures for all kinds of cuts,

over-reduce the sauce to a sticky glaze.

from brisket to oxtail to pork belly.

see page 97

seepage228

Ever made mashed potatoes that were

While you're at it, try brining and then.. ;

gummy or a mound of grainy mush?

slow-cooking a different meat to trans:

A ricer is an essential tool for making

form a classic sandwich. Oul' B.L.T.

silky mashed potatoes without

made with a crispy yet tender pork-

overworking them.

belly includes bacon mayonnaise for a bit of smokiness.

seepage232

FURTHER READING IN MODERNIST CUISINE

Braising meats: see pages 2路98-99 The role of collagen in cooking: see pages 3路80-81 Ideasforcombiningpotatoes, liquids, and fats: seepage 3路297 A plated-dish recipe for American Barbecue: ~ see pages 5路66- 79

THE SCIENCE OF COOKING TOUGH CUTS OF MEAT

Short ribs and other tough cuts of meat contain lots of tough collagen. To make such cuts tender and succulent, you must convert the collagen to gelatin through chemical reactions that occur only at temperatures of 50 ' C/ 122 ' Fand higher. The hotter the meat, the faster the conversion happens. But there is a trade-off: high heat also squeezes more juices out of muscle fibers and accelerates the unraveling of proteins. Cooking for long periods at 60 ' C/ 140 ' For lower strikes a good balance that preserves the color and juiciness of the meat while gelatinizing the collagen to create that silky texture typical of braised meats. Pressure cookers produce temperatures much higher than this, so they can cook tough cuts faster, but they dry the meat as a result. You can compensate for some of that effect by allowing the meat to rest in its juices. While it cools, the muscle fibers will reabsorb some of this moisture, and the meat will recover some of its odginaljuiciness.

Best Bets for Cooking Tough Cuts of Meat To cook the tough cuts of meat listed below so us vide, select a texture, preheat a water bath to the tempe rature g iven, vacuum seal the meat, and then cook so us vide fo r the time indicated. Alternatively, pressure-cook the meat at a gauge pressure ofl bar / 15 psi for the time indicated, a nd then

allow it to cool in its juices to serving te mpe rature. Tough meats require a lot of cooking, which means either high te mperatures or very long cook ing times at low temperatures. Fo r more o n cooking so us vid e, see page 50. For more on pressure-coo king, see page 32.

Cook so us vide Tender, yielding

Tender, flaky

Pressure-cook

Very flaky

Ingredient

(°C)

(°F)

(h)

(°C)

(°F)

(h)

(°C)

(0 f)

(h)

(min)

Note

See page

beef short rib

136

62 65

144 149

72 24

190

use bone-in w he n ava ilab le; texture is best w hen carved just before servi ng

229

beef brisket

140

145

158

use the fattier, thick end of the brisket, called the nose, especia lly when pressure-cook ing

oxtail, jointed

140

100

149

158

remove meat from the bone wh il e warm

lamb shank

144

185

190

remove silverski n before cooking

lamb shoulder, cut into large cubes

144

149

185

coat meat w ith 5% olive oil a nd 0.1 % thyme to p revent strong lamb notes from developing

pork be lly

149

158

190

for firm texture, cu re with the brine from step 1 on page 232 before cooking

232

pork should e r or fre sh ham, cut into 2.5 e m I 1 in cubes

140

149

183

use the more marbled, darker muscles whe n avai lab le

218

pork ribs

140

149

167

serve with our Grilling Spice Mix (see page 139)

(temperatures in red are those that we prefer)

228

MODERNIST CUISINE AT HOME

234

12 BRAISED SHORT RIBS YIELD: TIME ESTIMATE : STORAGE NOTES: LEVEL OF DIF FICULTY: SPEC IAL REQU IREMENTS: GOES WELL W ITH :

four servings (600 g; one boneless rib per serving) 3 days overall, including 15 minutes ofpreparation and 72 hours unattended keeps for 3 days when refrigerated or up to 3 months when frozen easy sous vide setup, vacuum sealer, Red Wine Glaze (see page 97) Potato Puree (see next page)

Short ribs cooked sous vide are, in a word, awesome. By varying the cooking time and temperature, you can produce dramatically different results in texture. If you want short ribs that have the color and texture of a medium-rare steak, cook them sous vide at 58 ' C I 136 'F for 72 hours. If you want the ribs fork-tender but still pink, increase the temperature to 62 ' C I 144 ' F, and cook for 72 hours, INGREDIENT

WEIGHT

Beef sho rt ribs, bone in or boneless

1.2 kg/ 2.61b 4 ribs

Red Win e Glaze

200g

VOLUME

y, cup

see page 97

Salt

to taste

as we do here. (Don't brown the meat before cooking it for such a long time, as that causes off-flavors.) The ribs take on a more traditional braised texture and color when cooked at temperatures higher than this. It is essential to vacuum seal the meat when cooking it for such a long time; see page 52 for more details. Both bone-in and boneless sh ort ribs work in this recipe.

SCALING

PROCEDURE

100%

CD 0 ®

17%

Preheat a water bath to 62 ' C/ 144 ' F. Vacuum sea l, and coo k sous vide fo r 72 hours. Sl ice the meat from the bon e.

@) Bring the glaze to a simmer in a pot.

® Add the meat, and baste for 1 minute to glaze. ® Season, and se rve warm.

A zip-top bag is not recommended when cooking for long periods for both safety and reliability reasons. It's also important to vacuum seal the meat to avoid oxidation and off-flavors.

Ta ke care not to undermine the benefits of cooking the meat sous vide by overheating it while basting with the glaze.

TO MAKE AHEAD After cooking the ribs in step 2, plunge the bag into an ice bath to cool the meat co mpl ete ly, and then refrigerate it in the sea led bag. To reheat th e ribs, remove them from the bag, an d sli ce the meat from the bones. Vacuum seal the sli ces, a nd reheat them for 30 minu tes in a water bath set to the sa me temperature used to cook the ribs. Th en co ntinu e with step 4.

BRAISED SHORT RIBS

229

POTATO PUREE YIELD: TIME ESTIMATE: STORAGE NOTES: LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY: SPECIAL REQUIREMENTS:

Jour to six servings (630 g I 20 cups) 2 hours overall, including 30 minutes ofpreparation and 10 hours unattended keeps for 2 days when refrigerated moderate sous vide setup, ricer

Traditional fluffy mashed potatoes are best made with starchy variet-

Jeffrey Steingarten and chef Heston Blumenthal, is a heat treatment

ies, such as the Russet or the Maris Piper. Adding just enough liquid and fat to moisten the mixture is all that is needed to finish the dish.

granules. It is also important to be gentle so as to rupture as few of

To obtain a silky texture, in the style of the French pommes puree, choose waxy potatoes, such as Yukon Gold or fingerlings. The real secret to a great potato puree, as revealed by food writer

prior to cooking that gelatinizes the starch and stabilizes the starch the granules as possible when making the puree. Sieve the potatoes slowly-never use a food processor-and add lots of fat to prevent any freed starch from forming a sticky puree.

INGREDIENT

WEIGHT

VOLUME

SCALING

PROCEDURE

Yukon Gold potatoes, peeled Water

500 g

about 4 potatoes

100%

0 Preheat a water bath to 70 "C/ 158 "F. 0 Cut the potatoes into 2.5 cm / 1 in pieces.

1 kg

1 L/ 4',4 cups

200%

® 0

® ® 0

Water

as needed

Unsalted butter, cubed, room te mperature

200g

1:Y., cups

40%

Heavy cream or whole milk, brought to a simmer

125 g

140 mL / Y, cup

25%

Salt

to taste

VA RI ATI ONS

Infused-Cream Potato Puree For a bolder potato flavor, reserve the potato peels, a nd add them to the heavy cream. Bring them to a simmer, and then remove from the heat and cove r. Letthem infu se for30 minutes . Then strain the skins, and use the cream in step 10. Dried mushrooms (po rcini, morel, or shiitake) can be steeped in this cream before step 10 to create a version of the classic French dish pommes forestieres .

® ®

Combine the potatoes and water in a zip-top bag, remove as mu ch air as possible from the bag (see page 58), and sea l it. Cook sous vide for 35 minutes. Drain the water from the bag, and refrigerate the potatoes, uncovered, until comp lete ly cooled, abo ut 30 minutes. Transfer the potatoes to a pot, and cover with water. Bring the water to a boil. Reduce the heat, and simmer until just tender, about 25 minutes. Drain the potatoes, and pass them through a ricer. Stir into the potatoes. Optionally, for a finer texture, pass the potatoes through a fine sieve into a bowl holding the butter. Mix well.

@ Stir the hot cream or milk into the potatoes. @ Warm the mixture in a saucepan over medium-low heat until hot, stirring often with a spatula to prevent stick ing. @ Season, and serve warm.

1 2

Preheat a water bath to 70 "C/ 158 "F. Cut the potatoes into pieces about 2.5 cm / 1 in thick and wide.

The rati o of potatoes to fa t and liquid determines the texture of mashed potatoes. Classic recipes use up to half butte r; this recipe ca lls fo r about a 2:5 ratio. If that is sti ll too mu ch butte r for you, simply use less, or substi tute olive oil or re nde red chi cken, pork, or vea l fat for up to half of th e butte r add ed at ste p 9.

Garlic Mashed Potatoes At step 11, fold in 200 g of pureed Pressure-

Cooked Garlic Con fit (see page 126).

Sweet Potato Puree Substitute satsuma-imo or sweet potatoes for Yukon Golds . TO MAKE A H EAD After mixing the potatoes and butter in step 9, refrigerate until ready to se rve. Then continue with step 10.

230

Place the potatoes and water into a zip-top bag, remove as much air as possible from the bag (see page 58), and sea l it.

MODERNIST CUISINE AT HOME

Cook sous vide for 35 minutes. This sets the starch to help prevent the potatoes from becom ing sticky, but it does not fully cook them.

12 5

Open the bag, and drain out the water. Refrigerate the potatoes, uncovered, until they have coo led complete ly, about 30 minutes.

Transfer the potatoes to a pot. Pour in enough water to cover them.

Bring the waterto a boil. Reduce the heat, and simm er until the potatoes are tender throughout, about 25 minutes. To ensure that the potatoes are tender enough to puree, insert a skewe r through the thickest potato: there shou ld be no resistance.

Drain th e potatoes, and pass them through a rice r. A food mill works well, too.

Stir the butter into the potatoes. Optionally, for a finer texture, arrange a tam is or fine sieve over a bowl co ntaining the cubed butter. Then use a thick rubber spatu la or rubber bench scraper to pass the potatoes through the sieve and into. the butter. Mix well.

This recipe is our homage to the chefs and passionate food writers who have spent a great deal of time refining the simple but incredible staple of creamy mashed potatoes. joel Robuchon introduced the technique of fine sieving, and both Heston Blumentha l and Jeffrey Steingarten developed the step of cooking so us vide that pregelatinizes the potatoes.

Stir the hot cream or milk into the potato puree. You can adjust the consistency by add ing more cream or milk to your liking.

Warm the mixture in a saucepan over medium-low heat until it is hot, stirring often with a spatula to prevent stick ing.

Season the puree with salt to taste, and serve it warm.

PORK BELLY B.L.T. YIELD : TIME ESTIMATE: STORAGE NOTES : LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY : SPECIAL REQUIREMENTS :

four sandwiches (1.2 kg/2.6lb of cooked pork belly) 50 days overall, including 30 minutes ofpreparation and 132 hours unattended cooked pork belly keeps for 3 days when refrigeratedj serve assembled sandwich immediately moderate sous vide setup, vacuum sealer, Insta Cure #1 (optional), Bacon Mayonnaise (see variation on page 108)

Our twist on a traditional B.L.T. substitutes a crispy yet tender pork

Bacon mayonnaise adds a bit of smokiness to the sandwich.

belly for crunchy bacon. Brining the pork belly helps the meat retain

If top-quality tomatoes are unavailable, use roasted onion, fresh

its reddish color, firms its texture, and changes its flavor (think ham

apple or pear, or sauteed mushrooms instead. Or try our Tomato

or corned beef). Even if you omit the brine, or buy prebrined belly

Confit (see page 128). Use leftover pork belly in stews or to enrich

from the store, the result is delicious, although different.

vegetable side dishes.

INGREDIENT

WEIGHT

VOLUME

SCALING

PROCEDURE

Water Salt Sugar lnsta Cure #1 (optional)

1 kg 70g 30 g 30g

1 L/ 4\4 cups Y2cup 3Tbsp

67% 4.7% 2% 2%

0 Mix until fully disso lved to make a brine.

Fresh pork belly, skin on

1.5 kg / 3.3lb

100%

0 Place the pork belly and brine in a zip-top bag, remove as much air as possible, and seal. Refrigerate for 72 hours, flipping the bag once a day. Remove the belly from the brine, rinse it thoroughly, and pat it dry. @) Vacuum sea l the belly. Refrigerate it for 24 hours to let the brine now inside the belly equi librate . ® Preheat a water bath to 65 •c / 149 • F. ® Cook the pork belly so us vide for 36 hours. 0 Plunge the bag in ice water to coo l, and then refrigerate it until fully chi ll ed, at least 4 hours.

Cooked pork belly, from above Neutral frying oi l

® ®

as desired as needed

see page xxii

White bread, toasted Bacon Mayonnaise

60g

8 slices \4 cup

Cutthe pork belly into slices 1.5 em / o/a in thick. Heat a thin film of oi l in a frying pan over high heat until very hot. Sear the pork on one side only until crispy, golden brown, and just warmed through, about 2 minutes.

@ Spread the bacon mayonnaise on each slice of toast.

@ Top with the seared pork belly.

see variation on page 108

Cucumber, peeled and sliced Tomato, sliced Avocado, sli ced Bibb or Boston lettuce

20 thin sl ices 12-16 slices 12 th in slices 4-8leaves

VARIATIONS Pressure-Cooked Pork Belly If you 're in a hurry, yo u can pressure-cook the meat, which produces a braised texture. Skip the curing step. The resu lt is quite different from the so us vide vers ion, but still very good . Pressure-cook the belly at a gauge pressure of1 bar / 15 psi for 50 minutes. Coo l the meat co mpl ete ly before slicing and searing it; otherwise, it will fall apart. Alternatively, make a sloppy-joe-style B.L.T. by shredding the meat and frying it.

@ Divide even ly among the sandwiches, and serve immediately.

TO MAKE AHEAD After coo ling the pork belly in step 7, remove from the ice bath, keeping the pork sealed, and refrigerate it for up to 3 days. Then continue with step 8.

Smoked Bacon B. LT. Begin at step 5, and use a slab of smoked bacon in step 6. Because of the strong cure used to create bacon, the texture will be less tender, but the flavor is tasty. Cook the bacon so us vid e at 65 •c / 149 • F for 12 hours, and sli ce it as in step 8.

232

MO DE RN I ST CUI SINE AT HOM E

3 1

Mix the water, sa lt, suga r, and lnsta Cure #1 until they have dissolved comp lete ly to

Place the pork belly in a large (4 L/ 1 gal) zipair as possible from the bag, and sea l it. Re-

helps preserve the co lor of the meat while

frigerate for 72 hours, flippin g the bag each

it cooks. Do not substitute lnsta Cure #2 .

day to ens ure that the pork cures even ly.

Plunge the bag in ice wate r to coo l the meat, and then refrigerate the meat in the bag

it under running water, and pat it dry.

Vacuum sea l t he pork belly, and refrigerate it for 24 hours to allow the brine in the pork to diffuse eve nly throughout the meat.

top bag, pour in the brine, remove as much

make a brine. The lnsta Cure is optional but

Cook the pork belly so us vid e for 36 ho urs.

Remove the pork belly from the brin e, rinse

Preheat a water bath to 65 Â°C/149 Â°F.

Cutth e pork belly into slices 1.5 cm /o/a in thick.

until it is thorough ly chill ed.

Heat a thin film of o il in a frying pan over high heat until it smokes. Sear the pork belly o n one sid e on ly until it turns a crispy, golden brown and is just warmed through, about 2 minutes.

Spread bacon mayonnaise over the sli ces of toast. For added flavor, pan fry the bread in bacon fat instead of toasting it.

11 12

Top the bread w ith the sea red pork belly.

Divide the cucumber, tomato, avocado sli ces, and lettuce evenly among t he sandwiches, and serve immediately.

You can make an entree of the pork belly by skipping step 8. Sear the pork on all sides as in step 9, and then slice it for serving.

BRAISED SHORT RIBS

233

LAMB CURRY YIELD: TIME EST IMATE: STORAGE NOTES: LEV EL OF DIFFICULTY: SPECIAL REQUIREME NTS :

Jour servings (850 g/ 4 cups) 2 days overall, including 30 minutes ofpreparation and 48 hours unattended keeps for 2 days when refrigerated or up to 3 months when frozen easy sous vide setup, vacuum sealer, Mughal Curry Sauce (page 104)

One frequent complaint voiced about lamb is that it has a strong

the fresh flavor, you must vacuum seal the meat b efore cooking it

gamey flavor. The reason this fl avor develops is that lamb fat is

sous vide. To make a delicious lamb stew, try replacing the curry

fragile and tends to oxidize quickly-the same reason that reh eated

with our Mushroom Jus (see page

lamb can develop an unappealing, warmed-over fl avor. To preserve

fresh spinach.

INGREDIENT

WEIGHT

VOLUME

SCALING

PROCEDURE

Lamb shanks, bone in

1.4 kg/ 3 1b

100%

Ne utral-tasting oil

40g

21arge or 4small 45 mL / 3 Tbsp

CD 0 ®

91), thinly sliced onions, and

Preheat a water bath to 62 "C/ 144 "F. Trim the fat and silversk in fro m th e lamb shanks. Vacuu m sea l the lamb shanks individually with equa l amounts of oil.

@) Cook so us vid e for 48 ho urs. Re move the meat fro m the bone, d isca rding any fat and gristle. Trim the meat into bite-si ze pieces.

® Mughal Curry Sauce

350 g

1\4 cups

25%

see page 104

Sa lt

to taste

Dates, thinly sliced Mint leaves, julienned

50g 2g

Y2 cup 12 small leaves

TO MAKE AHEAD After brea king up the meat in step 5, refrige rate it until read y to use. Th e n co ntinu e with step 6. VARIATIONS Pressure-Cooked Lamb Shanks Press ure-coo king the la mb yie ld s a texture simila r to tradition al braising but is mu ch faster. Co mbin e th e lamb shanks a nd 100 g/ 100 mL/ :Y. cup of water in a press ure cooker, and pressure -coo k at a ga uge press ure ofl ba r / 15 psi for 1 hour. Strain, add the coo king liquid into the Mughal curry sauce, a nd simm e r for10 minutes. Follow ste p 5 to de bo ne th e shanks. Co ntinu e with ste p 7. Whole Lamb Shank To se rve th e lam b shank who le, coo k as indi cated through ste p 4, saving the co oking juices. Sear th e cooked shanks until th ey turn dee p brown by dee pfrying them in very hot oil or by using a blowtorch (see page 15). Clea n the bon e for a ni ce r presentation. Strain th e rese rve d coo king juices, and re du ce th e m to add another laye r of comp lexity to th e sauce.

The Whole Lamb Shank variation can be made with any cut of lamb, including leg, shoulder, or neck.

234

0 ® 4% 0.1 %

Warm the sauce in a large pot to the cook ing te mp erature of the la mb. Stir in the prepared lamb, and warm gently until heated through. Season the curry. Garn ish the curry, and serve it wa rm.

1 2

Trim the fat and si lversk in from the lamb shanks. Eve n when cooked so us vide, silve rskin -on any meat-never becomes tender.

Cook the shanks so us vide for48 hours. Make sure the bags stay subm erged.

Remove the meat from the bone. Discard any fat and gristl e. While the lamb is still warm, separate the muscles by hand, and then cut the meat into bite -size pieces or break it up by using a fork .

Warm the Mughal curry sauce in a large pot. Use a thermometer to ens ure that the sauce does not get hotter than the cook ing temperature of the lamb.

Stir the prepa red lamb into the sa uce. Warm it ge ntly until it has heated through.

Preheat a water bath to 62 â&#x20AC;˘c / 144 â&#x20AC;˘F.

BRAISED SHORT RIBS

Place eac h lamb shank in a sepa rate bag with oil, and vacuum sea l it.

Season the curry with salt to taste .

Garn ish th e curry with dates and mint, and se rve it warm.

235

1 ROAST CHICKEN At its best, roast chicken can be one of the world 's greatest culinary

oven. Admittedly, it isn't simple. The technique, which borrows some

ach ievements. Brown, crispy skin covers tender, juicy meat: the

ideas from Peking Duck, involves blanchi ng the skin repeatedly and

combination of flavors and textures is simply amazing. Yet the per-

then drying it; roasting the bird slowly; and browning the skin u nder

fect roast chicken is nearly impossible to achieve in practice. The

a broiler or in a very hot oven or pan. The result is remarkable.

temperature required to brown and crisp the skin is so high that it

For a special dish such as this you should buy the best bird you can

leaves the meat underneath scorched and dry. The dark thigh and

find. It should be plump and fresh: air-chilled and kosher chickens

leg meat similarly need higher heat than is ideal for the white breast

are usually excellent. Avoid birds that are sealed tightly with water.

meat. Brining the chicken in salt water can help the delicate breast

The quality of the meat reflects how the bird lived and was slaugh -

meat retain more juice at higher temperatures, but the brine has the

tered, so buy from sources that treat the animals humanely.

same effect on the skin, which then ends up unpleasantly chewy. The classical approach of roasting the bird whole thus inevitably trades perfect skin for dry, overcooked breasts, or else swaps perfect breast meat for yellow, rubbery skin. Those "perfect" roast chickens you see on magazine covers are often made by food-styling trickery and are either raw or so overcooked you wouldn't want to eat them. A Modernist-and eminently practical- approach is to cook each part of the chicken separately to perfection. But that means cutting the bird up. Here, we present a technique for roasting a whole bird that produces the best roast chicken that we've ever made in a home

THE SCIENCE OF DARK MEAT VS. W H ITE MEAT

Why is chi cke n breast meat white while the leg meat is dark? The ·' a nswe r has to do with t he diffe rent roles thatthese muscles-and t he fibe rs that make the m- play in a living bird. Loo k at breast meat under a microscope, a nd yo u'll see many light-colo red, fast-twitch muscle fibers geared for inte nse bursts of activity, such as flutte ring away from a hungry fox . These fi bers do not burn fat, so thi s meat is lean. A ch icken's legs and thighs, in co ntrast, are built fo r sta mina. So they contai n mostly da rk fibers t hat are tuned fo r e ndurance. These muscles burn fat for fue l, so the meat is richer in flavo r as well as colo r.

HIGHLIGHTS

Blanchi ng the chicken skin in boiling

P rotect the chicken breasts from

For perfectly crispy skin, cook the

Chicke n cooked sous vide i s fa ntastic,

water before dryin g it overni ght, a tra·

overcooking by using an injector to

meat slowly at a low temperat ure, and

especially for soups and salads. Turkey

ditional technique fo r making Peking

brine them without piercing the sk in .

then sear the skin briefly under the

legs and breas ts are also best when

broiler or in a frying pan.

cooked this way. ln addition to recipes

Duck, gelatini z.es th e protei n in th e sk in and y ields a much crisper texture.

see page 238

for co mmo n poultr y, we g ive time ·and· temperature suggestion s for cooking du ck, squab, and quail so us vide.

see pages 244- 247

FU RTHER REA DI N G I N MODER N IS T CU ISIN E MOOEFINIST CUISINE

What really goes on in the oven when you bake a turkey: see pages 2·104-105 How to roast a chicken in a combi oven: see pages 2·178-179 How muscle works, and the differences between red meat and white: see pages 3·6-18 A plated-dish recipe fo r Crispy Hay-Smoked Chicken: see pages 5·112-119 237

ROAST CHICKEN YIELD: TIME ESTIMATE: STORAGE NOTES: LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY: SPECIAL REQUIREMENTS: GOES WEll WITH:

four to eight servings (1.5 kg) about 29 hours overall, including 1 hour ofpreparation and 18-28 hours unattended serve immediately advanced (special handling and precise temperatures) brine injector or syringe, digital thermometer with oven-safe probe Home Jus Gras (see page 93), Pan Gravy (see page 95)

This recipe requires advanced planning, patience, and a little

properly. Soy sauce is not a traditional ingredient in roast chicken,

practice; it is not something you would make every day. But for

but it acts as a drying and browning agent for the skin and also adds

special occasions, this roast chicken is simply amazing. It's especially

a great savory flavor. For an even deeper color, stir 5 g /

important to calibrate your oven (see page 35) to make this recipe

sweet paprika into the soy sauce before step 9.

1/2

tsp of

INGREDIENT

WEIGHT

VOLUME

SCALING

PROCEDURE

Whole chicken

2 kg/ 4.41b

1 medium roaster

100%

CD 0

Water Sa lt

200 g 12 g

200 mL /)/a cup 1 Tbsp

10% 0.6%

Soy sauce

20 g

15 mL / 1 Tbsp

® Bring a large pot of water to a boil, and arrange an ice-water bath

Cut away the wishbone. Fre nch the chicken legs by cutting the sk in in a circle around the leg bone at the end of the leg, using the back of the knife to press the meaty parts toward the body to expose the bone, and then cutting the joints off the ends of the exposed leg bones.

® Mix until completely dissolved to make a brine. Inj ect 70 mL /Y.. cup of the brine into each breast, and inject the rest of the brine into the thighs and legs. Try not to pierce the sk in . alongside. Both must be large enough to fully submerge the chicken.

® Plunge the ch icken into the boiling water, blanch it for 20 seconds, and then plunge it into the ice water for 20 seconds.

0 Repeat steps 5 and 6 two more times.

® ®

Pat the chicken dry with paper towels. Brush it evenly with soy sauce. @ Refrigerate it on a rack, uncovered, overnight or for up to 24 hours. Cooking spray or neutral frying o il

@ Preheat the oven to 95 •c / 205 •F.

as needed

@ Arrange a rack on a baking sheet, and spray both with cooking spray or

see page xxii

Neutral frying oil or clarified, unsalted butter see page 119

brush them light ly with oil. Place the chicken on the rack, and insert the probe of a digital thermometer into the center of the thickest piece. @ Wrap the exposed leg bones tightly in aluminum foil , and bake the chicken to a core temperature of 60 •c / 140 •F, 3-4 hours. @ Allow the chicken to rest at room temperature for 45 minutes. 30 g

30 mL/ 2Y2 Tbsp

1.5%

@ Arrange an oven rack so that the top of the chicken will be 6 cm / 2% in

from the upper heat source. @ Preheat the broiler to high. @ Brush the chi cken with oil, and place it on the rack breast-side down. @ Broil until the sk in turns brown and crisp, 5- 6 minutes. @ Turn the chicken over, and broil it breast-side up until the sk in turns brown and crisp, 4- 5 minutes. ® Serve the ch icken hot. Safety tipsfor lightly cookedfoo d: see page xxv

238

MO DERNI ST CUI SIN E AT HOM E

Cut away the wishbone by using a sharp boning knife. Avoid damaging the skin or cutting into the breast. This step helps heat flow eve nly into the bird and makes it easier to ca rve the roast chi cken.

French the leg bones. First, make a cut perpendicular to the bone and through th e skin 2.5 em / 1 in from th e end of each leg. Continue the in cision around th e bon e to release th e sk in. Next, use the back of

Mix th e sa lt into th e water, and stir until it has dissolved comp letely. This is the brine.

Inj ect 70 ml / Y.. cup of th e brine into each breast, and then inject the rest of the brine into th e thighs and legs. Try not to pierce the skin; oth erwise, it may tear during cooking, and leakingjuices wi ll soak the skin and

the knife to push the skin up toward th e body, ex posing the bone. Cut off th e joint at the end of each leg. Frenching th e legs hel ps heat move into the thigh meat.

make it less crispy. For more deta ils on where to inj ect the brine, see page 133.

Fu lly submerge the ch icke n in boiling water for 20 seco nds to blan ch it, and th en imm ed iately plunge it into the ice water for 20 seconds. A large perforated skimmer or "sp id er" is th e best too l for this step. Th e sk in becomes ve ry fragil e afte r this step, so take care not to tear it.

Bring a large pot of water to a boi l, and arrange a bath of ice water alongsid e. Both must be large enough to all ow yo u to subm erge the chi cke n ful ly.

Repeat the bl anch-and-chill process in step 6 twice more. This technique renders so me of the fat and tightens the skin, which yield s a crispi er roast chicken.

Pat the chi cke n dry with paper towels to remove excess moisture.

During the refrigerati on peri od, the brine eq uilibrates and the skin dri es in the air- both of whi ch help to produce a moist interior and a crispy exte ri or.

Brush soy sa uce eve nly over the chi cke n to improve the co lor and aid in crisping. You ca n add 5 g/ y, tsp of paprika to the soy sauce to give th e bird a more amber co lo r.

Put th e chicken on a lightly o il ed rack, and place it, uncovered, in the refrige rator for 12-24 hours.

continued on the next poge

ROA ST CHIC KEN

239

Preheat the oven to 95 •c / 205 •f. Use the co nvection baking mode, if avail abl e on your oven .

Arrange a rack on a baking sheet, and coat both with cooking spray or brush

Wrap the exposed leg bones t ight ly in alum inum foi l to enhance heat transfer and prevent burning. Bake the chi cken in the oven until the core temperature reaches 60 •c / 140 •F, 3-4 hours.

Remove the ch icken from the oven, and allow it to rest for 45 minutes at room temperature . Our experime nts found that the juiciness of the carved chicken peaks after a 45-minute rest.

Brush oi l or clarified butter evenly over the entire ch icken, and arrange it on the rack, breast-side down.

them w ith oi l. Place the chi cke n on the rack. Insert a digital probe thermometer into the ce nter of th e thi ckes t piece.

Arrange t he oven rack at a height that wi ll place the top of the chicken about 6 cm / 2:Y. in from the heat source at the

Broil the ch icken until the skin on the back becomes brown and crisp, 5-6 minutes.

top of the broiler.

Preheat the broiler to high.

Turn th e chi cke n over, and continue broiling, breast-side up, until t he sk in

Carve the roast chicken, and serve it hot. The skin is cri sp iest when it emerges from the oven, so do not rest the bird again before serving.

on the front turns brown and crisp, 4-5 minutes.

240

MODERNIST CUISINE AT HOME

13 VARIATIONS

Pincushion Chicken It may seem a tad brutal, but an effective way to co ndu ct more heat toward the thighs of the chicken without overcooking its juicy breasts is to push 12 stee l finishing nails into each thigh until they contact the bon e. Do this at step 12; the nails shou ld fit through the rack . Th e thigh meat can then be cooked more fully while the breast meat remains extre mely juicy. Try this variat ion for your next Hall oween dinner.

Extra-Juicy Chicken (not pictured) Add 2.5 cm / 1 in of water in a sepa rate pan at step 12, and place it in the bottom of the oven, below the baking sheet. Add an extra hour to the cooking time in step 13; your patience w ill be rewarded. Remove the pan of water at step 15.

Spatchcock Chicken After step 8, remove the backbone with kitchen shears, and then carefully Aatten the ch icken. Continue with the remaining steps, but broil skin-side up only. You do not need to french the bones.

Combi Oven Roast Chicken If you have a home combi oven that accurate ly holds low temperatures, then cook the chicken at step 13 in convection mode at 62 oc / 144 Â°F. A medium-size roaster takes 3-3 Y2 hours to cook at this temperature.

Deep-Fried Chicken (below) You can use a deep fryer rather than the broiler to brown and crisp the sk in on the cooked chi cken. Fill a deep stock pot no more than halffull with neutral frying oil (see page xxii). Preheat the oil to 220 oc / 428 Â°F. After step 14, lower the chicken carefully into the hot oil, breast-side down. Use caution to avoid sp latters. Deep-fry the who le chicken until the sk in browns, about 2 minutes. Drain it, and serve it hot. See page 26 for safety information about deep-frying.

SLOW-BAKED CHICKEN WITH ONIONS YIELD: TIME EST IMATE: STORAGE NOTES: LEVEL OF DIFF ICULTY: SPEC IAL REQUIREMENTS :

Jour servings (900 g) 30 hours overall, including 30 minutes ofpreparation and 3 hours unattended serve immediately moderate brine injector or syringe, digital thermometer with oven-safe probe

One of the easiest ways to enjoy superjuicy meat with crisp golden skin is t o brine chicken pieces, cook them smothered in shaved onions, and t hen pan fry their skin. The onions not only add flavor but also prevent the poultry from drying out as you slow-cook the

bird at low temperature. Although you can buy chicken breasts and thighs from your butcher, it's better to buy a high-quality whole chicken, and to cut it up yourself. You' ll save money, and you can use the remaining parts in other recipes.

INGRED IE NT

WE IG HT

VO LUME

SCALING

PROCEDURE

Water Sa lt

200g 12g

200 mL /7'• cup 1 Tbsp

13% 0.8%

Who le chicken, or two bone-in thighs a nd two skin -o n breasts

1.5 kg / 3.3lb 1 small roaster

Sweet onion, sliced paper th in o n a mandoline Cooking spray or neutral-tasting oil

300 g

100%

0 ® 0

20% 3 cups (l y, medium onions)

® as needed

Ne utra l fryi ng o il

as needed

see page xxii

Salt

as needed

® ®

Preheat the ove n to 75 •c / 170 •F; if your oven doesn 't offer a setting this low, use the lowest setting available. Mix until fully dissolved to make the brine. Remove the thighs and breasts from the ch icken. Try to keep the sk in intact. Inject the brine as evenly as possible into the chicken parts without piercing the skin. Pat the chicken skin dry, coat it lightly with cooking spray or oil, and then arrange the pieces, skin-side down, on a baking rack over a sheet pan. Cover the chicken pieces evenly with a thick layer of shaved onions, and then insert th e oven-safe probe of a digital thermometer into the center of the thickest breast piece. Bake the breasts to a core temperature of 60 •c / 140 •f, about 3 hours, and then hold them at this temperature for 20 minutes more. Cook the thighs to a core temperature of65 •c / 149 •f, about 15 minutes more. Remove the onions, and set them aside for use in step 10.

Heat the oil in a large pan over medium-high heat, and then pan fry the ch icken, skin-side down on ly, unti l the skin turns brown and crisp, 2-3 minutes. @ Remove the chicken, reduce the heat to medium, and cook the reserved onions in the oil unti l carame lized, about 2 minutes. @ Slice the chicken, season it, and serve it hot with the carame lized onions. Safety tipsfor lightly cookedfoo d: see page xxv

Preheat the oven to 75 •c / 170 •F; use an oven-safe thermometer to check the temperature (see page 8). If your oven doesn 't allow such low settings, use the lowest temperature ava ilable.

Make the brine by stirring the salt into the water until it disso lves fu ll y.

Cut the thighs and breasts from the 3 chicken whi le tak ing care to keep the skin intact. Save the legs, wings, and back for another use.

242

MODERNIST CUIS I NE AT HOME

Fill a brine injector or syringe with the brine, and inj ect it into the thighs and breasts as eve nl y as yo u can without piercing the skin.

Pat the skin dry. Place a baking rack or a clean, dry towel in a sheet pan. Coat the sk in lightly with oil, and then arrange the pi eces,

ce nter of the thickest piece.

sk in -s id e down, on the rack or towel.

Bake the breasts to a core temperature of60 "C/ 140 "F, about 3 hours, and then hold them at th is temperature for another20 minutes. Cook the thighs to a core temperature of 65 "C/ 149 "F, about 15 minutes more. Increasing humidity in the oven may cause the core temperature to stop rising after 2-3 hours; ifthat happens, in crease the oven temperature by 5 "C/ 10 "F.

Heat the o il in a large pan over mediumhigh heat until hot, and then sear the chicken, skin-side down only, until the skin becomes brown and crispy, 2-3 minutes.

Remove the chi cken from the pan, and reduce the heat to medium. Cook the reserved onions in the same cook ing oi l until they caramelize, about 2 minutes.

RO AST CHICK EN

Cover the chicken pieces with a thick, eve n layer of shaved onions. Insert the oven-safe probe of a digital thermometer into the

Remove the onions, and set them aside for use in step 10.

Slice the chi cke n, and serve it with the ca ram elized onions. Season the dish with add itional sa lt to taste.

24 3

SOUS VIDE CHICKEN YIELD: TIME ESTIM ATE: STORAGE NOTES: LEVEL OF DIFF ICULTY: SPECIAL REQUIREMENTS:

Jour servings (600 g) 20 hours overall using one bath (or 1% hours using two baths), including 10 minutes ofpreparation and the remainder unattended keeps for 3 days when refrigerated easy sous vide setup (two baths are ideal)

Chicken tastes fantastic when cooked sous vide; we almost always use this technique to cook chicken for soups and salads. To use this chicken in our Chicken Noodle Soup recipe on page 273, either

add the slices immediately after step 7, or keep the skin on and pansear it in hot oil. We brown the meat when serving it in a robust, brown chicken stock (see variation on page 85).

INGREDIENT

WE IGHT

SCALING

PROCEDURE

Bone less chicken breast, ski n on Chicken thighs, whole, bone in, skin on Neutral-tasti ng o il

400 g/ 0.9 lb 1 breast

100%

CD 0

300 g/ 0.71b 2 thighs

75%

30 g

7.5%

VOLUME

30 mL / 2 Tbsp

Preheat a water bath to 65 •c / 149 •F. If you have a seco nd bath, see the instruction on the next page.

Place each piece of chicken in a separate zip-top bag with 10 g/ 10 mL /2 tsp of oil. Use the water-disp lacement method (see page 58) to remove as much air as poss ible from the bag, and sea l it.

Cook the thighs so us vide for 90 minutes. 3 Alternatively, cook 3 hours for a stewed or braised tex ture. Cool in an ice-water bath . Do not open the bags.

244

Pre heat a water bath to 65 •c / 149 •F. Place each piece of chicken in a separate zip-top bag with 10 g/ 10 mL / 2 tsp of oil. Remove as much air as possible from the bag by using the water-disp lacement method (see page 58), and sea l it. ® Cook the thighs sous vid e for 90 minutes, and then cool. 0 Reduce the temperature of the bath to 62 •c / 144 •F. ® Cook the breast meat so us vide to a core temperature of 60 •c / 140 •F, about 40 minutes. Hold for another 20 minutes to pasteurize. ® Return the thighs to the bath 10 minutes before the breast meat is done. 0 Remove th e skin and bones from the chi cke n pieces, and cut the meat into sli ces 1 cm /Ys in thick. Serve warm or cold. Safety tipsfor lightly cookedfood: see page xxv

Reduce the te mperature of the water bath to 62 •c / 144 •F, a coup le degrees above the target temperature. Adding a few ice cubes lowers the water temperature quickly.

Cook the breast meat so us vide to a core temperature of 60 •c / 140 •F, about 40 minutes . Ho ld it for another 20 minutes at that temperature to pasteurize it.

When the breast meat is 10 minutes from being done, add the bagged thighs back into the bath to gently reheat them. This ensures that a ll of the ch icken is warm at the same time.

MOD ERNIST CUISIN E AT HOME

If you want to cook the drumsticks as well, seal them along with the thighs at step 2.

Remove the ski n and bones, and cut the meat into slices 1 cm /:Ys in thick. Alternative ly, keep the skin on, and sear the ch icken pieces skin-side down in a hot, oi led pan until the skin turns dark brown. Cut the meat from the thigh bone, and serve it warm or co ld.

13 TO MAKE AHEAD After cooking the chicken breast and thighs in steps 1-5, plunge the bags into an ice bath, and then refrigerate them . Reheat the meat in a 60 •c / 140 •Fwater bath forl0-15 minutes. Continu e with step 7.

SAFE COOKING OF POULTRY

IF YOU HAVE TWO WATER BATHS You can save 45 minutes by cooking the chicken breast and thighs in paralle l. Pre heat two water baths: one to 65 •c / 149 •F(for the thigh meat), and one to 62 •c / 144 •F(for the breast meat). Cook the thighs so us vid e for 90 minutes. Cook the breas t meat so us vide to a core te mperature of 60 •c / 140 •F, about 40 minutes, and hold for another 20 minutes to pasteurize it. Continue with step 7.

If you leave the skin on the breast when making Sous Vide Chicken, you can pan-sear it in hot oil to get the best of both worlds: perfectly cooked meat and beautifully browned skin.

The food safety of chicken and turkey has long been a subject of concern because poultry can harbor Salmonella and other pathogens. There is a big gap, however, between the best scientifi c information on safe cooking temperatures for poultry and official gu idelin es for cook ing poultry published by the U.S. Food and Drug Administration. The tables on this page refl ect the best scientific research as of2010, which finds that poultry breast and thigh meat is safe to eat when cooked to 60 •c / 140 •Fand held at that temperature for 20 minutes; shorter holding times are sufficient at higher temperatures. In contrast, the FDA recommends cooking poultry for15 seconds at 74 •c / 165 •F, a ridiculously high temperature that is scientifically unsubstantiated. If you are cooking for infants, the elderly, or anyone who has a comprom ised immun e system, it is prudent to cook to a higher temperature standard. For more details, see page xxv.

Best Bets for Cooking Tender Poultry To cook, follow the steps for chi cken breast in the recipe on page 244. For more about the so us vide technique of cooking to a core temperature, Medium rare (oC)

Ingredient chicken breast

(• F)

Hold at final Hold at final temperature * __M _ e_d _iu_m ___ temperature * (•C)

(• F)

(m inutes)

140

149

2 h17 min

136

(hours)

n/ a

Note

See page

we prefer to cook the breasts on the crown, although this takes at least twice as long; leavi ng the bone in helps the meat keep its shape and retain its juices

for a firmer texture, soak for a day before cooking in a brine of 5 g salt and 3.5 g sugar for every 100 g of water

133

duck breast

quail breast

122

133

leave the skin on, and sear it over very high heat

squab breast

129

2 h 17min

136

remove the skin, and wrap it in thinly sliced bacon before cooking

133

serve with a turkey variation of our jus Gras

144

turkey breast

129

see page 66. Once the meat reaches the target temperature, you can pasteurize it by keeping it in the water bath for the amount of time specified.

n/ a

247

(times and temperatures in red are those that we prefer) •(required to pasteurize)

Best Bets for Cooking Tough Poultry To cook legs, thighs, and wings so us vide, follow the steps for chicken thighs in the recipe on the previous page. In this so us vide technique, time and Tender and juicy

Braised texture

Ingredient

("C)

(• F)

(hours)

(•c)

(• F)

chicken leg and thigh

149

lY2

154

chicken wing

149

duck leg

140

temperature indi cate doneness rather than the core temperature of the food (see page 66).

(hours) Note 3

144

149

180

See page

to make fried chicken, cook so us vide, coat with a mix of equal parts potato previous starch and Wondra flour, and deep-fryat195 •c / 385 •Ffor3 minutes 249 to make du ck confit, brine the legs for 12 hours, and then cook each leg sea led in a plastic bag with 12 g / 1 Tbsp of duck fat

next next

turkey leg

149

158

brush with barbecue sauce, and finish on the grill

turkey wing

144

176

in the U.S., turkey wings are more widely availab le nea r the end of the year

(times and temperatures in red are those that we prefer)

ROAST CHICKEN

245

TURKEY CONFIT YIELD: TIME ESTIMATE: STORAGE NOTES: LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY: SPECIAL REQUIREMENTS:

four servings (450 g) 240 hours, including 30 minutes ofpreparation and 24 hours unattended keeps for 5 days when refrigerated or up to 1 month when frozen easy so us vide setup, vacuum sealer, needle-nose pliers, duck fat, juniper berries

Duck confit is a classic French preparation in which duck meat is cooked in an abundance of duck fat. In this Thanksgiving version,

If duck fat is unavailable, substitute butter or neutral-tasting oil. You can also substitute duck or chicken legs for the turkey. We serve

dark turkey meat is vacuum-cured with a complex melange that blends the aroma of autumn herbs with the richness of duck fat.

the con fit as an accompaniment to slices of juicy So us Vide Turkey Breast (see the next page) and Home Jus Gras (see page 93).

INGREDIENT

WEIGHT

VOLUME

SCALING

PROCEDURE

Turkey legs

900 g/ 21b

21egs

100%

(j) Pre heat a water bath to 60 •c / 140 •F.

Salt Sugar

40g 4g

3Yz Tbsp 1 tsp

4.4% 0.4%

Duck fat, cold Rosemary Thyme juniper berries, crushed Garlic, crushed Black peppercorns Fresh bay leaf

150g 2g 2g 2g 2g 0.5g 0.2g

:Y. cup 1 medium sprig 5 sprigs Yz Tbsp Yz clove Yatsp 11eaf

17% 0.2% 0.2% 0.2% 0.2% 0.05% 0.01 %

Neutral frying oil

as needed

see page xxii

® 0 ®

Make a cut around the circumference ofthe ankle bone to sever the tendons . Pull out the tendons, one at a time, by using needle-nose pliers. Push the meat and skin up the leg from the ank le, and clean the bone. Combine, and coat. the turkey legs evenly in a thick layer. Set aside any salt and sugar that does not stick for use in the next step. Combine with the coated turkey legs and any remaining salt and sugar, and vacuum seal. Cook so us vide for 24 hours. Remove the legs from the bag, and brush off the aromatics. You can strain the cooking fat and use it for other recipes.

Pour the oil into a pan to a depth of 6 mm / \4 in, and heat to 220 · c ; 428 • F. @ Pan fry the legs until the skin turns brown and crispy, 2-4 minutes per side. Alternatively, broil them until brown, 3-5 minutes per sid e. @ Serve immediately. You can also shred the meat. Safety tipsfor deep frying: see page 26

Once you have severed the tendons in the leg near the ankle bone, use needle-nose pliers to pull out the severed tendons one by one. Some will come out cleanly, but to remove the larger tendons, you may need to use a knife to separate them carefully from the meat.

246

After you have removed all of the tendons. you can french the legs by using the flat of a knife to push the meat and skin toward the knee joint. This consolidates the meat on the bone. Scrape the exposed bone clean.

13 SOUS VIDE TURKEY BREAST YIELD: TIME ESTIMATE : STORAGE NOTES: LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY: SPECIAL REQUIREMENTS :

Jour to six servings (700 g) 14 hours overall, including 15 minutes ofpreparation and 13~ hours unattended keeps for 3 days when refrigerated moderate sous vide setup, brine injector or syringe

An injection of milk and apple juice into the turkey in this recipe infuses the meat with phosphates, which make it extremely tender when cooked. Apple juice is also effective alone, and an apple-juice brine gives the turkey a pleasantly sweet flavor. Although turkey cooked to a core temperature of 56 ' C I 133 ' F

will be surprisingly pink, don't worry; the long cooking time ensures that it is safely pasteurized. If you prefer your turkey to have a more traditional appearance, taste, and texture, simply set the water bath to 62 'C I 144 'F, and cook the turkey breast to a core temperature of 61 'C I 142 'F. It will still be quite juicy.

INGREDIENT

WEIGHT

VOLUME

SCALING

PROCEDURE

Apple juice

75g

75m L/ %cup

10%

Combine, and stir until dissolved to make a brine.

Whole milk

75g

75mL/ %cup

10%

Salt

lOg

2Y' tsp

1.3%

Sugar

2 tsp

1.2%

Boneless, skinless turkey breast

750 g / 1.7 1b 1 medium or two small

100%

Inject the brin e into each part of the breast. Capture any that escapes.

Place the breast and all captured or leftover brin e in a zip-top bag. Remove the air from the bag by using the water-d isp lacement method (see page 58), and sea l it. Refrigerate the sealed bag for12 hours.

Preheat a water bath to 57 ' C/ 135 ' F.

® ®

Remove the turkey from the bag, rinse it w ith cool water, and pat it dry. Place the breast in a clean zip-top bag, remove as much air as possible from the bag (see page 58), and seal it.

Cook so us vide to a co re temperature of 56 ' C/ 133 ' F, about1:Y,. hours, and then hold it at that temperature for 35 minutes more.

Serve the turkey warm or co ld.

Safety tipsfar lightly cookedfood: see page xxv

Serve the turkey with Pressure-Cooked Vegetables (see page 183) and Pressure-Cooked White Chicken Stock (see page 84).

For a restaurant-style presentation, roll the brined turkey breast into a tube shape at step 6, and wrap it with plastic wrap rather than sealing it in a ziptop bag. Tie the ends of the wrap closed, and then proceed with step 7.

247

)

CHICKEN WINGS

in a starch slurry before frying them. In other experiments, we

Buffalo wings-deep-fried and slathered in hot sauce, §_erved with blue cheese dip and celery-combine hot and cold, crispy and

or brined the wings to add juiciness to the meat before cooking it

juicy, spicy and savory. To Americans, they're as classic as chicken noodle soup (on which we also have a chapter-see page 264). But

sous vide until it was falling-off-the-bone tender. In this approach, a final plunge into hot oil turns the skin ultracrispy.

sauce keeps wings from going soggy. Although we suggest specific combinations in the recipes, each of the sauces here pairs well with • •

Singapore and Malaysia have satay, and Turkey has ke,babs. One reason wings are so popular is that they have a high ratio

all of the varieties of wings, as well as with other meats. 0

of skin o meat. That translates into a lot of flavor, great mouthfeel, and enough richness to be satisfyingly filling. However you make

THE SCIENCE OF FRYING IN HOT Oit

them, chicken wings are the ultimate snack food. • Just as we did with r6ast chicken (see chapter 13 on page 237); we cooked and ate a lot of wings to find the best !}lethods of cook!ng t~em. How do you s,imultaneouslyget the crispiest skin and the juiciest meat? How do you add sauce without sogg,ine~s? Batter is the usual way to add crunch, but it also insulates the skin and effectively crea~s a flabby l~yer between th~ juicy meat aod the crispy batter. So we removed the skin-and found that this step makes a remarkable difference.

The right sauce-can make a good wing great. A rich, low-moisture

virtually every culture has snacks, bar food, or street food made of crispy chicken or other meat. Japan has yakitori, for example,

,..

In search of a silky texture, we tried a Chinese technique called velveting, in which we marinated the wings, and then coated them

The moment that food enters hot oil, a fast transformation begins. Swirling currents in the oil cause the temperature at the..surface of the food to skyrocket within seconds. 012ce that temperature hits the boiling point of water, water in the food flashes to vapor and erupts as miQ_iature steam volcanoes. As long as you see bubbles streaming .from the food, you can be sure that the surface i( still wet and thus no notterthan boiling water. As the bubbles start to slow, pay close attention: a mere trickle indicates that the surface is drying and that a crust is forming. The food is approaching the final stage'l:>f deep-frying when it burns eaSily.•Now the temperature ofthe crust rises quickly"and the boiling zone moves deeper into the food. This is the point at which the go lden color and crispy or crunchy cr u ~t develop, the raisons d'etre of deep-frying.

,..

•

HIGHLIGHTS

The ultimate coating for a golden col'!r

Fried chicken with no skin? It's just as

In some cases/we recommend higher-

and supercrispy te}ture is a light dust-

crispy when you use a whipping siphon

than-usual frying tempA!II'atures to

ing of starches: equal parts Wondra and

to aerate the batter (healthier, too).

create crunchy c rusts. Working with oil

potato starch.

Cooking-the meat on the b~e keeps

is one of the riskier things cooks 'do in

it juicy.

a kitchen, so heed the safety precautions

see page 252

on page 26.

see page 254

see page 256

FURTHER READING IN MODERNIST CUISINE MODERNIST CUISINE

• FDA safe-cooking standards for chicken: see page 1-84-89 Deep-frying chicke at high pressure, KFC-style: see pages 2-120-121 The secret life offrying oil, illustrated: see pages 2-124-125 Brining chicken: see page 3-172 ;"'Batters and breadings fbr chicken: see pages 3-318-319

your chicken wings won't

as quickly. see page 258

SOUS VIDE BUFFALO WINGS YIELD: TIME ESTIMATE: STORAGE NOTES: LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY: SPEC IAL REQUIREMENTS: GOES WELL WITH:

four servings (1 kg I 20-24 pieces) 40 hours overall, including 4 hours unattended serve immediately moderate sous vide setup, vacuum sealer, Buffalo Sauce (see page 258) Aerated Blue Cheese Sauce (see variation on page 261)

We brine these wings in an alkaline salt solution-a technique similar to that traditionally used in Chinese kung pao chicken-which

tenderizes the meat and enhances the Maillard reactions that brown the wings. We then cook them sous vide and panfry them.

INGREDIENT

WEIGHT

VOLUME

SCALING

PROCEDURE

Water Salt

SOOg 35g

500 mL / 2 cups

50% 3.5%

Stir together to make a brine.

Baking soda

ltsp

0.5%

Chicken wings, jointed

1 kg/ 2.21b

20- 24 pieces

100%

Cut apart at the joints; discard the tips or save them for making stock. Combine with the brine in a zip-top bag, and refrigerate for 3 hours. Preheat a water bath to 65 •c / 149 • F. Drain the chicken wings, and pat them dry with paper towels. Place the chicken pieces in a single layer in a new zip-top bag, remove as much air as possible from the bag by using the water-displacement method (see page SB), seal it. Cook so us vide for 1 hour. Place the cooked chicken pieces on a tray, and pat them dry.

3Y2Tbsp

0 ® ® 0 Neutral frying oil

® ®

as needed

Preheatl cm /:Ya in offrying oil in a deep skillet to 200 •c / 392 •F. Fry a few wings at a time in the hot oil until the skin becomes crisp, about 3 minutes. @ Drain the wings on paper towels.

as needed

@ Brush or toss the wings with sauce, and serve them hot.

see page xxii

Buffalo Sauce see page 258

Safety tipsf ar deep frying, see page 26

Stir together the water, salt, and baking soda to make a brine. Make sure that the salt dissolves completely.

Cut each of the wings into three pieces at the joints. Don't use the wing tips in this recipe; you can use them to make stock (see page B4).

For more on vacuum sealing and cooking sous vide, see chapter 3 on Cooking Sous Vide, page 48.

250

MO DE RNIST CUIS INE AT HO ME

Seal the brine and chicken wing pieces together in a large (4 L/ 1 gal) zip-top bag. Refrigerate for 3 hours.

Preheat a water bath to 65 •c / 149 •F.

Drain the chicken wi ngs, and pat them dry with paper towels.

Place the chicken pieces in a single layer in a large (4 L/ 1 gal), new zip-top bag. Use multiple bags, if necessa ry. Use the waterdisplacement method (see page 58) to remove the air from th e bag, and sea l it. Cook so us vid e forl hour.

'~-···.- ~~ :·.

Place the cooked wi ngs on a tray, and pat th em dry with paper towels. Excess mo isture causes dangerous splattering when the wi ngs are placed in the o il.

Pour frying o il into a deep sk illet to a depth of l cm /:Y. in, and preheat to 200 "C/ 392 "F. A traditio nal cast-i ron skillet hold s its temperature well during frying and browns the wings dark ly and qui ck ly.

·, ' ' ill/If" ' ,, ...:

·,

.'W

;~ . . ' . ,I( ,...,~ .. . ,_ \ '

Fry the wings, a few at a time, in the hot o il just long enough for the skin to crisp, abo ut 3 minutes.

Drain the wings on paper towels.

11 CHICKEN WINGS

Brush or toss sa uce over the wings, an d serve them hot.

251

CRISPY CHICKEN WINGS, KOREAN-STYLE YIELD : TIME ESTIMATE: STORAGE NOTES: LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY: SPEC IAL REQUIREMENTS:

four servings (1 kg/ 20-24 pieces) 1 hour overall, including 30 minutes ofpreparation and 30 minutes unattended marinate, refrigeratedJor up to one day before cooking easy michiu rice wine, Wondra, potato starch, monosodium glutamate (MSG, optional), Korean Wing Sauce (see page 260)

This adaptation pairs Chinese-style velveting with Korean-style marinade and sauce. During frying, the starchy coating forms a barrier against moisture that allows the wing meat to remain juicy while the skin browns to a crisp. After many tests, we fou nd that this combination of potato starch and Wondra, a prehydrated flour, crisped and browned the best. We also got good, crunchy results

when breading the wings with other starches, such as corn, tapioca, and water chestnut starches. The michiu rice wine has a low boiling point, so it evaporates very quickly during frying and produces a very delicate crust. If michiu wine is unavailable, use sake, dry white wine, or three parts water to one part vodka instead.

INGREDIENT

WEIGHT

VOLUME

SCALING

PROCED U RE

Pea nut oil

lOO g

110 mL/Y, cup

10%

Michiu rice wine (light)

70 g

80 mL /Y1 cup

Combine, and stir unti l the salt and sugar are comp lete ly dissolved to make a marinade.

0 ®

Toss with the marinade, cover, and refrigerate for 30 minutes.

Soy sauce

20g

15 mL / 3Y2 tsp

Salt

1Y.. tsp

0.5%

Toasted-sesa me o il

5 mL/ 1 tsp

0.5%

Monosodium glutamate (MSG), optional

0.3%

Sugar

y, tsp

0.2%

Ch icken wi ngs, cut up

1 kg/2.2 1b

20-24 pieces

100%

Neutral frying oil

as needed

see page xx ii

Wondra

40g

Potato starch

38g

Korean Wing Sauce see page260

280g

Y.. cup Y.. cup

1Y, cups

Pour into a deep pot to no more than half fu ll, and then preheat to 176 •c / 350 · F.

@) Combine.

3.8%

Dust over the marinade-soaked chicken wings, and stir until the w ings are evenly coated with a thin batter.

Deep-fry five to seven wings at a time until cooked through and golden brown, about 7 minutes.

28%

0 ®

Drain the wings on paper towels . Drizzle sauce generous ly over the wings, and toss to coat. Serve them hot.

Safety tipsf or deep frying: see page 26

252

Combine the peanut oil, rice wine, soy sauce, salt, sesame oil, MSG (if using), and sugar, and mix thoroughly until the salt

Toss the chicken wings with the marinade, cover with plastic wrap, and refrigerate for 30 minutes.

Stir the Wondra and potato sta rch together until eve nly mixed.

Dust the Wondra and starch mixture over the marinade-soaked chicken wings, and stir until the marinade and starch form a thin batter and the wings are even ly coated.

and sugar are comp letely dissolved. This mixture se rves as the marinade.

Fill a deep pot or fryer no more than half full of frying oi l, and preheat to 176 â&#x20AC;˘c / 350 â&#x20AC;˘f. The frying temperature for this recipe is slightly lower than in the other wing recipes because the Korean-style marinade is higher in sugar, and we want to avoid overbrowning the batter.

Drain the wings on paper towels.

CHICKEN WINGS

Deep-fry the wings in batches of five to seven until cooked through and golden brown, about 7 minutes per batch. The cooking time depends on the size of your pot or fryer. The more oil in the pot, the less it coo ls when the co ld wings enter it.

Drizzle Korea n wing sauce over the wings generously, and toss them until coated. Serve the wings hot.

253

CRISPY SKINLESS CHICKEN WINGS YIELD: TIME ESTIMATE: STORAGE NOTES: LEVEL OF D IFFICULTY: SPECIAL REQU IREMENTS:

four servings (875 g/ 20-24 pieces) 45 minutes overall serve immediately moderate 500 mL whipping siphon, two cartridges of nitrous oxide, Chili Spice Mix (see page 138)

This wing recipe captures everything we love about fried chicken. We remove the skin so that there is no barrier between the delightful crunch of the breading and the tender juiciness of the meat. The alcohol in the b atter vaporizes very quickly and completely. As it does, it lowers the boiling point of the mixture, yielding a delicate crust that is crispier than skin ever could b e. In effect, this is a

tempura chicken wing. Be sure to bring the wings to room temperature before frying them; the frying oil will recover its temperature more quickly after you add the food. If the food goes in cold, it tends to turn out greasy and overcooked. The batter, on the other hand, should be kept cold.

INGRED IENT

WEIGHT

VOLUME

SCALING

PROCEDURE

All -purpose flour Cornsta rch Sa lt Baking powder

57g 45 g 6g 1g

y, cup y, cu p ,y, tsp

Co mbin e all of th e d ry ingred ie nts.

\4 tsp

5.7% 4.5% 0 .6% 0.1 %

Water Vodka

200g 25g

200 mL/1'a cup 30 mL/ 2Tbsp

20% 2.5%

® ®

Whisk into the fl o ur mixture to make a smooth batter. Pour into a 500 mL siphon, charge with two cartridges of nitrous oxide, and refrige rate .

Chicken wings, cut up

1 kg/2.21b

20-24 pieces

100%

Neutra l frying o il

as needed

@) Remove the sk in from the wings.

Fill a deep pot to no more than half fu ll offrying oi l, and preheat to 190 · c / 374 · r.

Toss with the wings to coat evenly. Shake off excess sta rch. Dispe nse the co ld batter ove r th e wings, and toss to coat thoroughly. Deep-fry the wi ngs, a few at a tim e, unti l cooked through and go lden brown, 5- 6 minutes. Drai n on paper towels .

see page xx ii

Cornstarch

as needed for coating

0 ® ® Chi li Sp ice Mix

20g

2Tbsp

@ Season the wings generously, and serve the m hot .

see page138

Salt

to taste Safety tipsfordeepfrying: see page 26

WHILE YOU ' RE AT IT: Puffed Chicken Skin Th e chi cke n sk in yo u do n't use here co ul d become its own tasty snack. Seal it in a zip-top bag, a nd cook it so us vid e at 88 •c / 190 •r for 12 hours. Remove the skin from the bag, dust it with co rnsta rch, place it o n a baking she et, and allow it to dry in a dehydrator o r low-temperature oven at 60-120 •c / 140-25 0 •r for 4- 8 ho urs. Then fry the skin pieces in 1 em I ¥a in of very hot oil until they puff up and turn brown and crispy. Dust the m with sa lt or a spice mix, and serve. For a recipe for puffed pork sk in, see page 222.

254

Com bin e the fl our, co rnstarch, sa lt, and bak ing powder.

Whisk the wate r and vodka into th e flour mixture until the batter beco mes smooth .

MO DE RNIS T CUIS I NE AT HOM E

Pour the batter into a 500 mL siphon, charge the siph on with two ca rtridges of nitrous oxide, a nd refrige rate it. The batte r must be co ld to form a cris p crust.

Remove the skin from the wings by trimming off the connective tissue, pulling sections of the sk in away wh il e holding the wing with the back of a knife, and then cutting off the pieces of sk in. Alternative ly, use scissors to make an in cision, and then peel the skin away.

Toss the wings with cornstarch until coated evenly, and shake off any extra. The starch helps the batter cling to the chicken.

Dispense the cold batter from the siphon over the wings, and then toss the w ings until they are thoroughly coated with batter.

Fill a deep pot to no more than halffull w ith frying oi l, and preheat the oil to

190 Âˇ c / 374 Âˇ F.

Deep-fry the w ings in batches, a few at a time, until they are cooked through and golden brown, 5- 6 minutes.

Drain the w ings on paper towels.

Season the w ings generous ly with the chil i spice mix and salt (or another favorite spice mix; we li ke the MCCurry Powder on page 135}. Serve them hot.

CH ICK EN WI NG S

255

BONELESS YAKITORI WINGS YIELD: TIME ESTIMATE: STORAGE NOTES: LEVEL OF D IFFICULTY: SPECIAL REQU IREMENTS:

Jour servings (300 g/ about 12 pieces) 25 hours overall, including 24 hours unattended keeps for up to 3 days when refrigerated before frying advanced (handling) sous vide setup, vacuum sealel} potato starch, Yakitori Sauce (see page 260) Turkey wings make an excellent variation and offer a little

Boneless chicken wings are an unexpected treat. Use the center "forewing" portion. The trick is to cut off the bone ends, and then

reminder of Thanksgiving. Although turkey wings are larger

slide the bones out while the wings are warm.

than chicken wings, the cooking time is the same.

ING RED IENT

WE IG HT

SCALING

PROCEDURE

Ch icken forewi ngs

500 g / 1.11b about 12

100%

Water Sa lt

500g 30g

100%

Sugar

25 g

500 mL / 2 cups 3Tbsp 2Y2 Tbsp 5 tsp butter or 15 ml / 1 Tbsp oil

Clarified, unsa lted butter 15 g or neutral-tasting oi l

VOLUME

6% 5%

see page 119

Combine, and stir until the salt and sugar are completely disso lved to make a brine. ® Cover the wings in the brine, and refrigerate them for12 hours. @) Drain the brined wings, and pat the m dry with paper towels.

® ® 0 ®

® Neutra l frying o il

as needed

see page xxii

Potato starch

25g

Yak itori Sauce, warm

as needed

2Tbsp

Trim the joint ends from the wings, cut away the connective tissues, and use the tip of a knife to loosen the meat around th e exposed bones.

Pre heat a water bath to 62 •c / 144 •f. Vacuum seal the wings in a single laye r with the butter or oil. Cook the wings so us vide for 12 hours. While th e wings are still warm, carefully remove the bones without rupturing the skin. Pat the skin dry with paper towels.

@ Heat 1 cm / :Ya in of fry ing oil in a nonstick pan to 200 •c / 392 •f. @ Coat th e wings with the starch, and shake off a ny excess. @ Fry the wings until brown and crisp, about 2 minutes on each side. @ Drain the wings on paper towe ls.

@ Spoon the sauce over the wings, and serve them hot.

see page 260

Safety tipsforfrying: see page 26

Trim the chicken wing pieces. Try to keep the skin intact. First, cut through both joints; keep th e central forewing. Nex t, cut away the connective tissue. Finally, slide the tip of a kn ife around the exposed bon es to loose n the meat. This step makes it much easier to remove the bones after cooking.

Stir the salt and sugar in the water until th ey are completely dissolved. This is the brin e.

256

MODERNIST CUISINE AT HOME

Remove the wings from the bag, and while they are still warm, carefull y extract the bones. Avoid rupturing the sk in .

Cover th e wings in the brine, and refri ge rate them for 12 ho urs.

Drain the brin ed wings, and pat them dry w ith pape r towels.

5 6 7

Pre heat a water bath to 62 •c / 144 •F. Vacuum seal the wings in a single laye r with the butte r or oil.

Coat the w ings with the sta rch, and shake off any excess.

Cook th e wings so us vide for12 hours.

TO MAKE AHEAD Pat the wings dry w ith paper towels.

Heat 1 em /% in offrying o il in a nonstick pan to 200 •c / 392 •F.

After yo u re move the bones and dry the coo ked wings in step 9, refrigerate them for up to 3 days. To re heat, seal th e wings in a bag, a nd pl ace in a wate r bath at 62 •c / 144 •Ffo r 30 minutes.Th e n co ntinu e with step 10.

CHIC KEN WINGS

Fry th e w ings until th ey turn brown and crispy, a bout 2 minutes on each side.

13 14

Drain th e fried wings on pap er towels. Spoon yakitori sauce over the wings, and serve them hot.

257

Buffalo Sauce

Korean Wing Sauce

Blue Cheese Sauce

Chinese Garlic Chili Condiment

BUFFALO SAUCE 235g/ 1 cup 1 hour overall, including 30 minutes ofpreparation and 30 minutes unattended keeps for 3 days when refrigerated moderate

YIELD : TIME ESTIMATE: STORAGE NOTES : LEVEL OF D IFFI CU LTY:

Our Buffalo wing sauce is essentially a spicy variation of mayonnaise made with a flavored oil (which, by the way, can be used by itself). Here we use raw egg yolks, but pasteurized eggs can be substituted (see page 142). You can use this spicy, creamy sauce on almost

anything. Note that because this sauce contains very little water, it won't make your crispy chicken wings soggy. If at any point the sauce starts to separate and get oily, whisk it or puree it with an immersion blender until smooth.

INGREDIENT

WEIGHT

VOLUME

SCALING

PROCEDURE

Neutral-tasting oil Sweet onion, thinly sliced Garlic, thinly sliced jalapeno pepper, minced Canned ch ipotl e pepper in adobo, chopped Sweet paprika Cayenne

200g 80g 80g 30g 20g

220 mL/ 1 cup :Y., cup

o/a cup 3Tbsp 1 medium

100% 40% 40% 15% 10%

lO g lOg

lV2 Tbsp lV2Tbsp

5% 5%

Egg yo lks (raw or pasteurized) Lemon juice

SOg

3-4 yolks

25%

SOg

50 mL/ 3Y, Tbsp

25%

Salt

2tsp

258

® ®

Combine in a pot, and cook over low heat until the garlic a nd onions are completely soft, about 30 minutes. Alternatively, pressure-cook togeth er in a cann ingjarfor10 minutes (see page 126). Strain through a sieve lined with cheesecloth . Discard the so lids, and coo l the oil to room temperature. Measure 150 g/:Y.. cup of the flavored oil for use in the next step.

0 Place the egg yolks in a bowl, and gradually blend in the flavored oil and lemon ju ice by using an immersion blender until fu lly emu lsified.

Season the sauce, and serve it at room temperature.

MODERNIST CUISINE AT HOME

1 Pressure-Caramelized Peanut Sauce (see page 111)

Yakitori Sauce

Honey Mustard Sauce

HONEY MUSTARD SAUCE 200g/ 1 cup 5 minutes overall keeps for 7 days when refrigerated easy

YIELD: TIME ESTIMATE: STORAGE

OTES:

LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY:

The flavor of this sauce depends greatly on the kind of honey and mustard you use; experiment with varieties you find intriguing. Maple syrup can be substituted for the honey. Sweet herbs or spices such as tarragon, cinnamon, or cloves provide a change of pace. Give the sauce more kick with dry mustard powder, chili powder, INGREDIENT

WEIGHT

Dijon mustard lOOg Honey SOg Pressure-Cooked Pickled 40g Mustard Seeds, drained

cayenne pepper, grated horseradish, or Japanese wasabi. Or add a few drops of liquid smoke for a smoky flavor. The pickled mustard seeds add a great popping texture, and you can add up to twice as many of them if you like.

VOLUME

SCALING

PROCEDURE

:Ys cup 3Tbsp 2Y, Tbsp

100% 50% 40%

Stir together until thoroughly mixed.

15 mL / 1 Tbsp

12%

Season the sauce, and serve it warm or co ld .

see page125

Apple cider vinegar

12g

Salt

to taste

CHICKEN WINGS

259

YAKITORI SAUCE YIELD: TIME ESTIMATE: STORAGE NOTES : LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY: SPECIAL REQUIREMENTS:

500g/2 cups 1214 hours overall, including 15 minutes ofpreparation and 12 hours unattended keeps for 3 days when refrigerated easy mirin, sake, bonito flakes

Yakitori is Japanese for grilled (yaki) bird (tori); it is usually made

a very hot charcoal fire, and then brushed with this delicious sauce.

with chicken. This popular bar food is somewhat akin to tapas in

The pineapple in the sauce contains an enzyme, called bromelain,

Spain. Yakitori comes in many forms, but in the most common style,

that tenderizes the surface of the meat. Teriyaki sauce can be substi-

small pieces of chicken are strung on bamboo skewers, grilled over

tuted in a pinch.

INGREDIENT

WEIGHT

VOLUME

SCALING

PROCEDURE

Mirin Honey Light soy sauce Dry sake Bonito flakes Ginger, finely grated

200g 110 g lOOg lOO g 20g 5g

230 mL / 1 cup y, cup 85 mL / y, cup 120 mL /'/2 cup 1 cup, packed 2 tsp

89% 49% 44% 44% 9% 2%

G) Combine in a pot, and bring to a si mm er.

1'/2 cups

100%

Pineapple rind and flesh , 225g cubed

Rice vinegar Salt

50g 15g

Pour th e hot soy sa uce mixture over the pineapple, a nd let it coo l.

0 Refrigerate for 12 hours.

60 mL/ \4 cup 5 tsp

22% 6.7%

Strain through a sieve lin ed with cheesecloth, reserving the sa uce. Disca rd the pineapple rind. The pineapple cubes ca n be used in st ir-fry.

Â®

Season the sauce, and serve it warm or co ld .

KOREAN WIN G SAUCE YIELD: TIME ESTIMATE: STORAGE NOTES : LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY: SPECIAL REQUIREMENTS:

280g/ 1 cup 15 minutes keeps for 5 days when refrigerated easy gochujang (Korean fermented chili paste), Shaoxing wine

This sweet and spicy sauce is addictive. It is well worth the time to

mouth " (usu kuchi) soy sauce, the variety we prefer for this recipe.

search your local Asian market for these specialty ingredients. Often

If you can't find Shamdng wine (a Chinese rice wine), substitute

sold in tubs, gochujang is a sweet, complex chili paste that you might find yourself slathering on almost everything. Look also for "thin

medium-dry sherry.

INGREDIENT

WEIGHT

VOLUME

SCALING

PROCEDURE

Gochujang (Korean fermented chili paste) Sugar Soy sauce Shaoxing wine Toasted-sesame oil Garlic, minced Ginger, minced

135g

'/2 cup

100%

G) Co mbine, and whisk together until the suga r dissolves. 0 Serve the sa uce warm or co ld .

50g 30g 27g 20g lO g 8g

y, cup 25 mL / 5 tsp 30 mL / 2Tbsp 20 mL / 1'/2 Tbsp 1 Tbsp 1 Tbsp

37% 22% 20% 15% 7.4% 6%

260

MODERNIST CUISINE AT HOME

14 BLUE CHEESE SAUCE YIELD: TIME ESTIMATE: STORAGE NOTES: LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY: SPEC IAL REQUIREMENTS :

600 g/ 2~ cups 15 minutes overall keeps for 3 days when refrigerated easy Wondra, sodium citrate

Use a bold blue cheese, such as Maytag, Roquefort, Gorgonzola, or

smooth sauce, the sodium citrate we use here as an emulsifier requires

Stilton. Overheating cheese sauces usually is taboo, but to make a

that the sauce simmers while you gradually blend in the cheese.

INGREDIENT

WEIGHT

VOLUME

SCALING

PROCEDURE

Wondra Sodium citrate

12 g 4g

5tsp

3% 1%

Mi x until thoroughly combined.

Whole milk, co ld

200g

210 mL /1"s cup

50%

Wh isk together with the Wondra mixture in a medium saucepan, and bring to a simmer. If the powders clump, the milk was not co ld eno ugh.

Blue cheese, crumb led

400g

3Y3 cups

100%

Add gradua lly to the simmering milk mixture, and use an imm ersion blender to blend each addition until the cheese is melted and the sauce is complete ly smooth. Cool the sauce completely, and serve it cold.

0 VARIATION : Aerated Blue Cheese Sauce To make a light, airy version of the Blue Cheese Sauce, pour the warm sauce into a 1 Lsiphon, and charge the siphon with two cartridges of nitrous oxide. Dispense a cloud of blue cheese alongside chicken wings or on a raw vegetable platter.

•

CHINESE GARLIC CHILl CONDIMENT YIELD:

145 g/ 1¥3 cups

TIME ESTIMATE : STORAGE NOTES:

30 minutes overall serve within 30 minutes

LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY:

moderate

Variations of this condiment are often seen in Chinese "salt and

along with the jalapeno. This condiment tastes fabulous not only

pepper" dishes. Adjust the spiciness to suit your taste. For a more

with chicken wings but also with fried frogs' legs, fried tofu, grilled

aromatic version, include minced ginger, cilantro, and lemongrass

pork chops (see page 202), and cold noodles dressed with sesame oil.

INGREDIENT

WEIGHT

VOLUME

SCALING

PROCEDURE

Neutral-tasting oil Garlic, minced

432 g 150 g

470 mL / 2 cups 1 cup

288% 100%

CD 0 ® 0

Scallions, white parts only, min ced

27%

40g

® ®

Set a stra iner over a pot near the stove top. Combine the garlic and o il in another pot. Make sure the pot is no more than half full to all ow space for bubbling and froth. Cook over high heat, stirring constantly, until the garlic turns golden brown, about 6 minutes. Once the garli c darkens in co lor, it burns quickly, so watch it closely. Pour through the stra in er. Spread the garli c on paper towels to drain. Add to the pot of hot, stra in ed oil. Place the strai ner over the empty pot.

0 Cook over high heat, stirring constantly, until the sca llions turn golden brown, about 4 minutes. Pour through the stra in er. Spread the scalli ons on paper towels to drain. @ Measure 3 g/ 3 mL /Y2 tsp of the oi l for use in the next step. You can use any remaining o il for flavoring steamed fish or pasta.

® ®

jalapeno pepper, finely chopp ed Salt

33g

3Tbsp

22%

@ Combine with the reserved oi l, fried garlic, and fried scallions. Mix

2 tsp

5.3%

@ Serve within 30 minutes, while the garlic and scallions remain crisp.

thoroughly.

CHICKEN WINGS

261

CHICKEN NOODlE SOUP A quintessential comfort food, chicken soup has many renditions: matzo ball soup, poule au pot, Hainanese chicken rice, ph agil, and

tortellini en brodo, to name just a few. But the idea of chicken noodle soup is usually more compelling than the soup itself. The broth is often so watery it tastes mainly of salt. And cooking the other ingredients together often leaves the chicken dry, the vegetables bland, and the noodles mushy. This hearty classic really shines when you prepare each ingredient separately to highlight its best qualities. The chicken is succulent when cooked sous vide, the egg noodles are toothsome when fresh, and the vegetables are perfectly yielding when pressure-cooked. Boost the broth with an infusion of aromatics just before serving. Try substituting other vegetables or replacing the meat with ground-chicken meatballs. For a heartier soup, crack in an egg poached at 65 Âˇc I 149 â&#x20AC;˘p (see page 142).

THE SC IENCE OF INFUSION It's easy to turn a stock into an aromatic broth by infusing it with a fresh layer of flavors, but you must know which flavors are solub le in which liquids. The same ingredients release different flavors when soaked in water than they do when left to sit in vodka. And every ingredient has a particular temperature and time at which it is best extracted, as the perfume and essential-oil industries have cataloged extensively. In Modernist Cuisine, we explored the science of infusion and extraction quite a bit and experimented with many different broths, infused extracts, and essential oils. Here we use a simple French press for our soup broth-treating the fresh herbs and toasted spices like you would tea leaves-to make a last-minute infusion before serving the soup. It's an easy concept to grasp for tea or coffee drinkers, who already understand the consequences of underextraction (a weak flavor from too few aromatics for the amount of water) and overextraction (a harsh, bitter flavor from letting the aromatics infuse for too long).

s:~~l~Ii;lriiJ:;c~&lEJ~-

HIGHLIGHTS

Present your soup like a pro. Our instru ctions guide you th rough the

Infusions with volatile ingredients

Apply the infusion technique to make

T he secret to making fantastic

such as thyme and tarragon are best

a wide ran ge of aromatic noodle

fresh pasta? Add gluten. Pasta is

done at the last second and off the heat.

soups, including ph6', goulash, tortilla,

often miss ing that extra toothsome

process of assembling t he components

A Fren ch p ress is a h andy tool fo r

Thai, and Chinese noodle soups.

bite. To get it, add some vital wheat

of a soup just like a top chef wou ld.

in fu sing herbs and spices into an aromatic chicken broth .

see page 266

see page 267

gluten . The gluten also adds some forgiveness to the noodles, so they are less likely to overcook.

see page 268

see page 273

AROMATIC CHICKEN BROTH YIELD: TIME ESTIMATE: STORAGE NOTES: LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY: SPECIAL REQUIREMENTS:

four servings (1 kg/ 41,4 cups) 10 minutes overall serve immediately easy blowtorch (optional), French press (optional), monosodium glutamate (optional)

Use either a traditional white stock or a savory, roasted brown broth as the main ingredient in this recipe. For best results, prepare the ingredients but do not combine them until you are ready to plate the soup, as shown on page 273. The last-minute infusion gently draws out all of the aromatics from the herbs and spices just before

you pour the broth at the table, creating a wonderfully fragrant experience. It's like making coffee or tea: although you can make and infuse the broth ahead of time, the natural perfume will fade as it sits. We like to infuse the broth in a French press and pour it at the table, but it can also be made in a saucepan and then strained.

INGREDIENT

WEIGHT

VOLUME

SCALING

PROCEDURE

Garlic

20g

5 cloves

Star anise Black pe ppercorns

4g 4g

1 sta r anise Y2 tsp

0.4% 0.4%

<D 0 ®

Salt Chervil, bruised Thyme, bruise d Tarragon, bruised Bay leaves, sliced Monosodium glutamate (MSG), optional

15g 14 g 2g 1g 0.4g 5g

5tsp 12 branches 4 sprigs ? leaves 21eaves

1.5% 1.4% 0.2% 0.1 % 0 .04% 0.5%

0 Combine with the charred garlic and toasted spices in the bea ker of

White or brown chi cke n stock

1 kg

1 L/ 414 cups

100%

® ®

see page 84

Cut each ga rli c clove lengthwise into thick slices. Char by using a blowtorch, or sea r the slices on both sid es. Toast the spices in a dry frying pan over medium-high heat, stirring co nsta ntly, until fragrant, about 3 minutes. a la rge French press.

Bring to a boil. Pour over the ingredients in the French press, a nd stir. Leave to infu se for 2 min utes. Then press, and serve hot.

Safety tipsfor b/owtorching: see page IS

Cut each garlic clove le ngthwise into thick slices.

Char both sides of each sli ce eve nly with a blowtorch (use MAPP or propylen e fu el), o r sear th e m in a very hot, dry pan for 20 seconds. The surface shou ld be dark and bliste red, but the interior should rema in moist. This step re moves the raw ga rli c flavor a nd adds a co mplex ity to the finished broth.

266

Toast th e star anise and peppercorns in a dry frying pan over medium-high heat, stirring constantly, until fragrant, about 3 minutes. For a spicier fl avo r, crack the spices in a morta r and pestle.

Bring the chicken stock to a full boil. Pour over the ingredients in the Fre nch press, a nd stir. If you are not using a Fre nch press, simply re move th e stock from the heat, stir in the aromatics, and cover.

Comb in e the he rbs, sa lt, and MSG (o ptiona l) with the charred garlic and toasted sp ices in th e beaker of a large French press.

Leave th e stock to infuse for 2 minutes. Th en press or strai n it, and serve it hot.

MODERNIST CU IS INE AT HOM E

5 OTHER AROMATIC BROTHS AND SOUPS The infusion technique from our Aromatic Chicken Broth recipe on the previous page lends itself to a variety of flavorful soups and broths. Each of the recipes below uses the same simple procedure. First, combine all ingredients except the noodles. Then stir, cover, remove from the heat, and allow to infuse for 2-3 m inutes. Finally, strain the broth, add the cooked noodles, and serve. Each of these recipes yields four servings

(1 kg / 41,4 cups).

Pho Soup Beef stock, very hot

1 kg

1 L/ 4\4 cups

240g

llarge

50g

30g lOg 5g

1h cup / 1 piece 6 cm / 2Y2 in long 2Tbsp 9 mL/ lY.. tsp ltsp

4g 2g 2g

l YJ tsp 1-2 whole 1 large stick

see page 86

Onion, halve d a nd charred Ginger, sliced in half and charred Sugar Asian fish sauce Monosodium glutamate (MSG), optional Black peppercorns Star a nise Cinnamon stick, crumbl ed Whole allspice Rice Nood les

Thai Soup Pressure-Coo ked Crustacean Stock, very hot

1 kg

ll/ 4\4 cups

lOOg 40g 20g lOg

100 mL /Ya cup YJ cup 20 mL / 3Y2 tsp 2 Tbsp / 3- 4 slices

6g 5g

6 ml/ 1\4 tsp 1 Tbsp

see page 88

Coconut milk Palm sugar, grated As ian fis h sauce Galan ga l, toasted and crushed Lime ju ice Le mon grass, thinly sli ced Lime leaf, crushed Coconut Noodles

ll eaf 1g as needed

see variation o n page 271

1g 1h tsp as needed

see variation on page 271

Goulash Broth Pork stock, very hot

1 kg

1 L/ 4\4 cups

1 kg

1 L/ 4\4 cups

15 g lOg 8g 8g

2Y2 Tbsp 10 ml/ 2ÂĽs tsp 2Tbsp 2Tbsp

ltsp

see page 84

see variation on page 86

Canned tomatoes Red bell pepper juice Fresh dill sprigs, bruised Sherry vinegar Caraway seeds Hot paprika Cumin seeds Rye ood les

Chinese So up Duck stock, very hot

150 g 150 g 30g

1Y2 cups 150 ml/2/3 cup 2 cups

20g 6g 2g lg as needed

25 ml / l ]h Tbsp 2\4 tsp ltsp 1h tsp

1 kg

1 L/ 4\4 cups

lOOg 50g lOg 5g 4g 2g 0.4g as needed

:Y. cup :Y. cup \4 cup ltsp \4 cup 2 mL /Ya tsp 1h tsp

Ginger, sli ced Shaox ingwine Scallion, sliced Dry-cured ham, julienned Monosodium glu tamate (MSG), optio na l Whole Wheat Noodles

as needed

see variation on page 271

see variati on on page 270

Tortilla Soup Chicken stock, very hot see page 84

Canned tomatoes Onion, diced Torti ll a ch ips, crumb led jalapeno chil i, sli ced Cilantro sp rigs Lime juice Cumin seeds Masa Harina Nood les see variation on page 270

CHI CKEN NOO OLE SO UP

267

FRESH EGG NOODLES YIELD: TIME ESTIMATE: STORAGE NOTES:

LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY: SPECIAL REQUIREMENTS:

four servings (640 g) 20 hours overall, including 30 minutes ofpreparation and 2 hours unattended raw dough keeps for 2 days when vacuum sealed and refrigerated; noodles keep for 1 day when refrigerated moderate stand mixer with dough hook or food processor, vacuum sealer, pasta machine, vital wheat gluten

The trick to making fresh noodles with extra chew is to add gluten.

or dry noodles instead in the chicken soup; follow the directions on

Try using whole wheat, buckwheat, and other flours for variet y.

the package to cook them.

The time-consuming part of making fresh noodles is not cooking

A linguine cutter will allow you to make wider noodles from the

them-we cook ours for just 30 seconds-but resting the dough. If

pasta sheets. And if you don't have a pasta machine, you can use a

you're short on time, you can use 675 g of store-bought fresh noodles

rolling pin, and then cut the pasta by hand using a knife.

INGREDIENT

WEIGHT

VOLUME

SCALING

PROCEDURE

All-purpose flour Water

420g

100% 30% 12% 6% 4%

Vital wheat gluten (Bob's Red Mill brand) Salt

16g

3 cups 125 mL/ Yz cup 1-2 eggs 30 mL / 2Tbsp 2Tbsp

1 tsp

Olive oil or Press ureRendered Chicken Fat

as needed

Egg Extra-virgin olive oil

125g 50g 25g

Comb in e in the bowl of a stand mixer, and mix with the dough hook for 8 minutes. 0 Vacuum seal the dough, or seal it in a zip-top bag, and refrigerate it for at least 1 hour. ® Divide the chil led dough into four even pieces. 0 Dust the dough with flour, and press it flat. Line a tray with a lightly floured , dry cloth. ® Roll the pieces of dough into sheets 2 mm / Y1• in thick by using a pasta machine. Place the pasta sheets sid e by sid e on the prepared tray. ® Refrigerate the sh eets, uncovered, for about 1 hour. 0 Cut the pasta sheets into thin, spaghetti-like noodles. ® Dust the noodles with flour, and return them to the cloth-lined tray. ® Fill a large pot with a measured amount of water, add 0.5-0.75 g of salt for every100 g of water, and bring to a boil. @ Boil the noodles for 30 seconds to make firm noodles or 60 seconds to make tender noodles. @ Drain the pasta, toss it with oil, rendered fat, or pasta sauce, and serve

it imm ediately.

see page 123

You ca n use a food processor in place of a stand mi xe r. Blend th e wet ingredie nts in th e processo r. Dry-b le nd th e fl o ur, glute n, and sa lt. Combine th e m with th e wet ingred ie nts, and the n pu lse in th e processo r unti l the dough just starts to coh e re. Transfe r th e dough to a cl ea n surface, and kn ead it until it becom es elasti c and smooth, about 3 minutes. Continu e with step 2.

266

Combine the flour, water, egg, olive oil, gluten, and sa lt in the bowl of a stand mixer. Mix with the dough hook attachment for 8 minutes . The dough should gradua ll y come together in dense, smooth, elastic balls that do not stick to the sides of the bowl.

MODERNIST CUISINE AT HOME

Vacuum sea l the dough, or sea l it in a ziptop bag. Refrigerate it overnight, or for at least 1 hour. Sealing the dough keeps it from drying out and helps hydrate the starch.

Divide the ch illed dough into four even pieces.

Dust a piece with flour, and use the palm of your hand to flatten it. Lin e a tray with a lightly fl oured, dry cloth .

Roll the dough through a pasta ro ll er into sheets 2 mm / y,. in thick. Place the pasta sheets side by side on the tray. Th e sheets of pasta shou ld not overlap; use multiple trays if necessary.

Dust the noodles gene rous ly with flour to prevent sticking, and return them to the cloth-lined tray, or hang them from a pastadrying rack.

Pour a measured amount of water into a large pot, add 0.5 - 0.75 g of salt for every 100 g of water, and bring the water to a boil. This is less sa lt than is typically used in water when cooking pasta because we include a generous amo un t of sa lt in the pasta dough itself.

Boi l the noodles for 30 seconds to make firm noodles or 60 seconds to make tender noodles. For thicker pasta, cook sma ll test batches to find the optima l time.

Drain the pasta, toss it w ith oi l, rendered fat, or pasta sauce, and serve it immediately.

Refrigerate the pasta sheets, uncovered, for aboutl hour. They shou ld dry slightly and become slightly leathery.

Cut the sheets into spaghetti-like nood les. Any shape of pasta works in this dish, but thicker noodles require more time to cook.

Pasta sheets Thi s pasta d o ugh, as well as th e variatio ns o n th e next two pages ca n also be ro lled and cut to w id e shapes fo r use in lasagna o r ca nn ello ni.

TO MAKE AHEAD After dusting the noodles with flour in step 8, refrigerate them, covered, for up to 24 hours. To cook the noodles, continue with step 9.

CHIC KEN NO OD LE SO UP

269

PRESSURE-COOKED CARROTS AND LEEKS YIELD: TIME ESTIMATE: STORAGE NOTES: LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY: SPECIAL REQUIREMENTS:

Jour servings (250 g/ 1 cup) 10 minutes overall keeps for 1 day when refrigerated easy pressure cooker

This simple technique makes very tender vegetables in only a few

cooking time. If the vegetables are thicker or thinner than noted,

minutes. The thickness of the vegetables determines the correct

increase or decrease the time accordingly.

INGREDIENT

WEIGHT

VOLUME

SCALING

PROCEDURE

Carrots, unpeeled, 2.5 cm / 1 in in diameter Leeks, 2.5 cm / 1 in in diameter, thoroughly washed

200g

2 carrots

100%

0 Place the vegetables on a rack or trivet in a pressure cooker, and add 1 cm /:Y. in of water. The vegetab les sho uld cook above, not in, the water.

0 Pressure-cook at a ga uge pressure of1 bar / 15 psi for 5 minutes . Start 150 g

1-21eeks

75%

timing as soon as full pressure has been reached. Depressurize the cooker quickly by running tepid water over the rim . If the vegetables are not yet tender enough for yo ur liking, rep lace the lid, and co ntinue to pressure-cook for1-2 minutes more. @) Rub the skins off the carrots, and peel and discard the outermost layer of the leeks.

® ®

Slice each on the bias into pieces 1 cm /:Ya in thick. Keep warm until ready to serve.

Safety tipsf ar pressure-cooking: see page 33

TO MAKE AHEAD Refrigerate the cooked vegetables. Reheat them in a steamer for 2 minutes, or place them on a microwave-safe plate, cover with microwave-safe plastic wrap, and microwave at 500 watts until just warmed through, abo ut 30 seco nd s. VARIATIONS This technique works well with other root vegetables such as beets, turnips, potatoes, celery root, and parsnips. Cut them into pieces of equa l thickness when cooking them toget her. See Pressure-Cooked Vegetables on page 183.

272

M ODERNI ST CU IS INE AT HOME

15 CHICKEN NOODLE SO U P Jour servings (2.4 kg/ 10 cups) 15 minutes serve immediately moderate Fresh Egg Noodles (see page 268), Pressure-Cooked Carrots and Leeks (see the previous page), Sous Vide Chicken (see page 244), Aromatic Chicken Broth (see page 266), Pressure-Rendered Chicken Fat (see page 123)

YIELD: TIME ESTIMATE: STORAGE NOTES: LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY: SPECIAL REQUIREMENTS :

The secret to perfecting this seemingly simple soup is ensuring that each component is cooked and seasoned to perfection. Make sure all

of the ingredients are prepared and timed to be assembled quickly so that the soup is piping hot when it gets to the table.

INGRED IENT

WEIGHT

VOLUME

PROCEDURE

Fresh Egg Noodles, hot

400g

4cups

CD 0

Pee l the mushrooms, and slice them on a mandoline to paper-thin slices. Divide even ly between four se rving bowls.

250 g

20 pieces of carrot 16 pieces of leek

22g 700g

:Y.. cup 2 cups

1 kg

1 L/ 4 \4 cups

Â®

Pour into the pre pared so up bowls.

45 mL / 3 Tbsp

@) Drizzle over the soup for added flavor.

see page 268

Pressure-Cooked Carrots and Leeks, warm see th e prev iou s page

White button mushrooms So us Vide Chicken, warm and sliced see page 244

Aromatic Chicken Broth, hot see page 266

Pressure-Rendered Chicken Fat, 40g melted (optional) see page 123

CHICKEN NOODLE SOUP

273

FRAGRANT SOUS VIDE SALMON YIELD: TIME ESTIMATE: STORAGE NOTES: LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY: SPECIAL REQUIREMENTS:

Jour servings (600 g) 514 hours overall, including 15 minutes ofpreparation and 5 hours unattended serve irnrnediatelyj brined fish keeps for up to 1 day when refrigerated easy sous vide setup, Fish Spice Mix (optional, see page 137)

Use the highest-quality salmon you can find . We like to brine the

The cooked fish is delicious served hot or cold; if you're serving it

fish before cooking to season it, firm it, and protect its delicate

cold, cook it sous vide in oil rather than butter so that the fat won't

color. If you have time, decrease the salt to 20 g and the sugar to 15 g, and brine the fish for 24 hours -the effect is even gentler.

congeal. For firmer salmon, cook it sous vide to a core temperature of 51 ' C I 124 ' F.

INGREDIENT

WEIGHT

VOLUME

SCALING

PROCEDURE

Water Salt Sugar

1 kg SOg 40g

1 L/ 4Y., cups 4Y, Tbsp 2Y2 Tbsp

100% 5% 4%

Stir together until comp lete ly dissolved to make a brine.

Salmon fillets, skin and pin bones removed

600 g/ 1.31b 4fillets

60%

0 ®

Submerge the salmon in the brine, and refrigerate for 3- 5 hours. Drain the brine from the sa lmon .

Neutral-tasting oil, o live oil, or melted butter

120g

12%

0 Preheat a water bath to 46 ' C/ 115 ' F.

130mL/ Y, cup

® ®

Unsalted butter Fish Spice Mix (optional)

80g 15g

see page137

Ys cup 2Tbsp

8% 1.5%

0 ® ®

Place each fillet with 30 g/ 30 mL/ 2 Tbsp of oil or butter in a separate zip-top bag. Remove as much air as possible from the bags by using the water-displacement method (see page 58), and seal them . Cook sous vide to a core temperature of45 ' C/ 113 ' F, about 25 minutes for fillets 2.5 cm / 1 in thick. Transfer the cooked fillets ge ntly from the bags to a plate.

Melt the butter in a nonstick frying pan over medium-low heat. Add the fish spice, if you are using it, and in crease the heat until the butter just starts to bubble. @ Add the fillets, and cook while basting with the hot butter for abo ut 30 seco nds per side. Serve immediately. Safety tipsf or lightly cookedfood: see page xxv

We love to serve this sa lmo n with simpl e sauteed as paragus and peas during spring. Se rve with ca bbage, shiitake mushrooms, and thyme in th e co lde r months.

TO MAKE AHEAD After draining the brine in step 3, you may refrigerate the salmon for up to 24 hours.

27 6

MOD ERNIS T CUISIN E AT HOM E

Make th e brine by stirring the sa lt a nd sugar into th e wate r until co mp le te ly dissolved. If yo u use wa rm wate r (whi ch disso lves the sa lt a nd suga r mo re q uick ly), cool the bri ne co mplete ly before ad ding the sa lmon.

Place each fi ll et in a se pa rate zip-top bag alo ng w ith 30 g / 30 ml /2 Tbsp of o il o r bu tter. Arrange the fill ets so that the longe r, thic ker sides are at the bottom of the bag; this prevents the m fro m bend ing whil e coo king. Use the water- d isplace me nt method (see page 58) to remove as m uch ai r as poss ible fro m each bag, a nd sea l it.

Subm e rge the sa lmo n in the brine, o r sea l salmo n po rtions with the brine in a zip-top bag, a nd th e n refri ge rate it fo r 3-5 ho urs. Brining the fi sh fi rm s its surface a nd makes it both tas tie r and eas ie r to ha ndle.

Cook th e sa lmo n so us vide to a co re te mpe rature o f45 oC/ 113 Â°F. Fille ts th at a re 2.5 cm / 1 in thi ck w ill requ ire a bo ut 25 minu tes to reach the ta rget te mpe rature at th eir thic kest pa rt. Thinn e r pi eces may need just1 2-15 minu tes to cook; th icke r pieces may take 30 minu tes o r mo re. Clip the bags to the side of the bath.

Tra nsfe r the cooked fi ll e ts ge ntly fro m the ir bags to a pla te so that they a re eas ie r to ha ndl e.

Me lt the butte r in a no nstic k frying pa n ove r medium-low heat.

Add the fis h spi ce, if you a re using it, a nd the n in c rease the heat un til the butte r just sta rts to b ubb le.

Drain the brine fro m th e sa lmo n. Pre heat a wate r bath to 46 Â°C/ 115 Â°F.

Add the fi ll ets, a nd baste the m in th e pa n w ith th e ho t butter for about 30 seco nds per sid e. Se rve th e fi sh imm ed iate ly; it is not ve ry hot, so co o ls rap id ly. Th e fis h pa irs we ll with seasonal vegeta bles.

SALMON

277

HOW TO Poach Salmon in a Kitchen Sink - - - -- - - - - - - - - - - - - -- - - -This is a fun and simple way to begin enjoying the virtues of lowtemperature cooki ng without investing in so us vide equipment. A pot of water preserves a constant temperature for up to 1 hour, far more time than is necessary to cook fish-and even enough time to cook some steaks. (A picnic cooler keeps the water temperature stable for

Brine the salmon by following steps 1- 3 on the previous page (optiona l).

Choose a target core temperature for the sa lmon: 45 °C/ 113 °Ffor rare (our preference), 48 °C/ 118 oFfor medium, or 52 oc / 126 °Ffor firm.

up to 5 hours; see page 198 for an examp le of this technique.) The more food you put in the water bath, and the co ld er that food is, the more the water temperature drops. To help hold the heat, bring the food to room temperature before cooking it, and use your largest pot and an abundant amount of water.

Adjust the temperature of the tap water until it is 2-5 oc / 5-9 °Fhigher than the

bag. Use the water-disp lacement method (see page 58) to remove as much air as possible from the bags, and sea l them .

target temperature, as measured with a digital thermometer.

Place a large pot in the sink, and fill it with the hot tap water. If preparing larger batches of fish, you can use a large cooler, or even fill your entire sink with water (see page 64).

Place each fillet, along with 30 g/ 30 ml/ 2 Tbsp of oi l or butter, in a separate zip-top

Cook sous vide to the desired core temperature, about 25 minutes for fillets that are 2.5 cm / 1 in thick. Continue with step 7 of the recipe on the previous page to finis h the salmon.

HOW TO Bake Salmon in a Toaster Oven - - - - - - - - - -- -- - - - - - - - - -- Your toaster oven can approximate cook ing so us vid e, and you won 't need an add itional finishing step. The texture of the sa lm on w ill be

drier cooki ng environment. Cook ing takes longer than in a water bath because dry heat is not as efficient at cond ucting heat, but the result is

slightl y more dense because of the higher cooking temperature and

sti ll exce ll ent.

Brine the sa lmon by fo ll owing steps 1-3 on the previous page (optional).

Ca librate your toaster oven (see page 35), and set it to 90-110 oc ;

Place the sa lmon on a sma ll baking sheet, and cook it until the core temperature reaches 45 oc ; 113 °F, 38- 40 minutes. Use a digital thermometer to mon itor the core temperature. About halfway through the cook ing, baste the fish with a neutral-tasting o il or clarified butter, and dust with the Fish Spice Mix on page 137, if desired.

200-225 °F.

27 8

MO DE RNI ST CU I SIN E AT HOM E

16 CRISPY FISH SKIN YIELD: TIME ESTIMATE : STORAGE NOTES: LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY: SPECIAL REQUIREMENTS:

Jour pieces (each 5 em by 7.5 em I 2 in by 3 in) 5~ hours overall, including 15 minutes ofpreparation and 5 hours unattended serve immediately after frying; keeps for up to 1 day when refrigerated after cooking sous vide advanced (handling) so us vide setup, vacuum sealer

Any flavorful fish skin works well in this recipe. Softer skins, such

rather than 5 hours. The ice-bath cooling in step 5 is crucial for

as those of cod and snapper, should be cooked sous vide for 3 hours

handling and frying the skin properly.

INGREDIENT

WEIGHT

PROCEDURE

Salmon skin

2 pieces (10 em by 15 em / 4 in by 6 in)

0 0 0

Preheat a water bath to 88 •c / 190 • F. Scale the fish skin. Remove all of the meat, fat, and sin ew fro m the insid e of the skin to prevent it from cu rling.

0 Vacuum seal the pieces, and cook so us vide for 5 hours. Neutral frying oil

® ®

as needed

see page xxii

0 ® ®

Plunge the bags into an ice bath to cool completely. Cut open the bags, and ca refully peel the cooked fish skin from the plastic. Pat the skin dry. Cut the skin into pieces 5 em by 7.5 cm / 2 in by 3 in square.

Preheat the frying oil to 185 •c / 365 •F in a pot no more than halffull. Put a few pieces of the fish sk in, one at a time, into the o il. Use long tongs, and be very carefu l, as the moist skin reacts violently with the hot o il. @ Deep-fry until very crispy, 1- 3 minutes. @ Drain on paper towels. Salt

@ Season, and serve immediately.

to taste

Safety tipsfar deep f rying: see page 26

TO MAKE AHEAD After coo ling the fish sk ins in step 5, refrigerate the sealed bags for up to 24 hours. Continu e with step 6. VARIATIONS

Baked Fish Skin Chips To make baked chips, brush or spray the cooked skin with oil, season it, a nd then sandwich it between two silicone mats and two baking sheets . Bake it in a 165 •c / 330 •f oven until crisp, 20-45 minutes. Crispy Chicken or Pork Skin Substitute chicken skin or pork skin for the sa lm on sk in . At step 4, cook so us vide for12 hours if making chicken sk in or for18 hours if making pork skin . Continue w ith step 5. For a recipe for Pressure-Cooked Chicharr6n, see page 222.

SA LMON

279

SHELLFISH We're lucky to be based in the Pacific Northwest, where we have abundant access to fresh seafood. So we would be remiss not to

Mussels Mariniere uses sous vide cooking to improve on the French dish of mussels steamed in a delicate white-wine broth.

include a variety of shellfish-lobster, clams, mussels, snails-

Clams in Chowder Sauce is the Modernist essence of chowder:

in this book. That is especially true because our favorite cooking

it dresses juicy clams in foamy sauce. And tender Sous Vide Braised

technique, sous vide, provides the perfect antidote to overcooked

Snails are great in paella or as classically prepared escargot.

shellfish, which is all too common. Take mussels mariniere: the mussels are usually a rubbery afterthought to the creamy sauce. The recipes in this chapter bring out the best in shellfish. The Lobster Roll, for example, is a study in contrasts: a warm, toasted roll filled with a refreshingly cool, savory, and tangy mixture of lobster and mayonnaise. We perfect this classic New England sandwich by ensuring that the lobster is perfectly cooked: succulent, juicy, and sweet.

THE SCIENCE OF SHOCKI

GE BUTTER

The pigment in lobster shells that turns them crimson when cooked is fat-soluble, as is a lot of the lobster flavor. That means that when yo u cook the shells in butter, the color dissolves into the butter right along with the flavors. If you cook the shel ls in water, you get none of the color and only a slightly sweet and briny flavor, like that of shellfis h stock. Making lobster butter is a great way to use the lobste r she ll and any meat left in it that you couldn't get out. For a recipe, see page 122.

17 HIGHLIGHTS

Mussels and clams typically are boiled or steamed until they open, but by then

Forget rubbery snails floating in butter:

Shucking mussels or clams and shell-

One way we perfect our lobster is

snails cooked so us vide make tender

ing lobster is easy when you follow our

to cook the tail and claw meat separately,

they're overdone. For juicy mussels

escargot that you'll want to eat.

illustrated, step-by-step guides.

at different temperatures.

with an intense taste, steam th em

see page 293

see pages 284-287

It's a mistake to cook a lobster whole.

see page 288

briefly in white wine, and then shuck them and cook them sous vide in their own juices.

see page 290 FURTHER READING IN MODERNIST CUISINE MDDEFINIST CUISINE

Spineless meat in a shell-an overview of shellfish: see pages 3-26-27 How to select a lobster at its peak for cooking: see pages 3·28-30 The essentials ofprawns, shrimp, and sea urchins: see pages 3·30-31 A plated-dish recipe for Lobster Americaine: see pages 5·184-187 A plated-dish recipe for Oyster Stew: see pages 5205-207

We carefully removed the shell from a cooked lobster and then reassembled the parts to show the meat by itself.

283

HOW TO Kill and Shell a Lobster With seafood, freshness is everything. The best way to get great shel lfish is to identify a reputable fishmonger or fish market. Shellfish should sme ll like the sea-briny but not overpowering. Buy clams, mussels, and lobsters straight off the boat, or from tanks filled with clean water. Look for foods that move fast at the market; it helps to eat what the locals eat because uncommon foods tend to sit around.

Once you buy live shellfish, you have to kill it, clean it, and she ll it. A lobster tastes better if you kill it just before you cook it. Research suggests that lobsters can feel pain, so it is worth taking the effort to dispatch the animals gent ly. Some claim that the technique shown below is the most humane method, while others put the lobsters to sleep in a freezer before boiling them (see the next page).

Place the tip of a large, sharp knife at the cross on the shell, about 2.5 cm / 1 in behind the eyes, pointing the blade away from the tail. In one quick movement, cut deep into the head, toward the front of the lobster.

Bring a large pot of water to a ro lling boil. Arrange an ice bath alongs id e.

Blanch the lobsterta ils in the boiling water for 90 seconds, and then plunge them in the ice water. Blanch the claws for4 minutes, and then submerge them in ice water. This step loosens the meat from the shell so that it is eas ier to remove.

284

Twist the head from the body, and break off the claws. The lobster is dead as soon as step 1 is complete, but nervous reflexes may still be active, so expect the extremities to twitch briefly.

Thread a chopstick or skewer between the tail meat and the bottom shell to stra ighten it for aesthetic purposes (optional). Be sure to save the body, legs, and any dark green roe for making crustacean butter or stock (see page 122).

MODERNIST CUI SI NE AT HOME

Clean th e meat from the tai ls by cutting the she ll with good kitchen shears and ca refully pee ling it off. Wea r gloves to protect your hands

Clea n the meat from the claws and knuckles (the pi eces that connect the claws to the body) in the same manner.

from the sharp edges. Wash off any curd-like albumin that may have exuded during the blanching.

Cook the meat imm ediatel y, or vacuum sea l the lobste r tails and lobster claws sepa rately, and sto re refrigerated for up to 24 hours.

VARIATION : Freezing the Lobster Place th e live lobste rs in the freezer for about 30 minutes to put them to sleep, but do not let the meat freeze. This reduces the shock of boiling. Bring a large pot of water to a boil. Arrange an ice bath alongsid e. Blan ch the whole lobste r in th e boiling water for 2 minutes to kill it. Working quickly, separate the tail and claws from the body. Plunge the tails in ice water. Return the claws to the boiling water for an additiona l 2 minutes, and then plunge th em in ice water. Finish with steps 6- 8 above.

SHELLFISH

285

HOW TO Shuck Mussels - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - A qui ck steam, followe d by a plunge into ice water, re laxes the add uctor muscles that hold mussels a nd clam s shut. Th e treatment ma kes it eas ie r to shu ck the mollu sks, but don 't assum e that if the shell doesn't open, th e m eat inside is bad. The she ll co uld simpl y be full of mud.

De beard the mussels. Use the flat of a knife or need le- nose pli ers to pull o ut the enti re beard. just severi ng the visible portion wi ll leave part of the beard inside.

You must pay attention to how each musse l or clam looks a nd sme lls as yo u shuck it. If the meat sme ll s terrib le, that's a sure sign that it has spo il ed . If it looks wrinkled a nd dry rathe r than plump a nd moist, throw it o ut.

Scrub the debearded mussels with a stiff brush. Sme ll each mussel, and discard any that do not close or are strong-sme lling.

Pl ace the mussels in a zip-top bag. Steam for 2 minutes over boi li ng wate r in a covered pot, and then plunge the bag into ice water.

Pl ace a bowl und er a strainer, and empty the contents of the bag into the strai ner. Co ll ect th e juices- they give a flavorfu l boost to sauces and broths. Transfer the mussels to a clean bowl.

Shuck the mussel meat fro m the shells over a bowl to capture add itional juices. To do that, sl ip the blade of a sma ll, sharp knife between the two she lls of each mussel at the wide end, and sever the add uctor muscles on both sides. Ope n the shell, and cut the meat fre e.

All ow any gri t to settle to the bottom of the reserve d broth, and decant the co ll ected ju ices through a fin e strainer lin ed with cheesecloth or a coffee filter.

Best Bets for Cooking Shellfish So us Vide Blanch and shuck mussels and clams, as described above and on the next page, befo re cooking them so us vid e. To cook these and other she llfish so us vide, sea l the shucked meat along with any fl avori ngs, fats, or liquids in a zip-top bag. Next, select a target co re tempe rature from the tabl e be low to match the degree of don eness yo u prefe r. Preheat a water bath to 1•c ; 2 •f Barely cooked

higher than the target temperature, and then coo k for th e time indi cated or until the co re temperature of the food reaches the target. Shellfish is best lightly cooked; for food-safety information , see page xxv. She ll fish ca n be served imm ediately, or chilled and served cold. For dishes having multipl e kinds of shellfish, coo k each sepa rate ly, and th e n combin e. Tend er

Firm Note

See page

coo k in its own juice

287

to co re

best coo ke d in butter

288

to co re

best coo ked in butter

154 126

7 7

co ok in its own juice

288 290

129

sea r in a very hot pa n for 10 seco nds o n each side

176

may look translu cent

Preparation

<•c)

clams

blan ched and shu cked

11 8

lobster claws

shell ed shell ed

129 120

to core

lobster tails

54 49

musse ls

blanch ed and shu cked

144

oysters

shu cked

to co re

11 8 122

she ll ed, with o r without roe

113 108

scallops

45 42

65 48

59 68 52

to core

118

to core

140

Ingredient

shrimp, prawns peel e d

(•F)

(min)

(• c)

(°F)

(min)

56 60 54

133 140 129

to core

149

to core

(•c)

(•F)

(min)

to core

149 149 138

(times and temperatures in red are those that we prefer)

286

MOD ERNIST CUISINE AT HOME

coo k in its own juice

288

17 HOW TO Shuck Clams There's no thing wo rse th an a gri tty cl am. D ee p - burrowing cl am s, such as th e softshell (l o ng- nec k) va ri eties can accumul ate a lo t o f grit. Hard shell cl am s, such as litt lenecks, stay cl osed fo r most of t heir lives, so t hey

Soak th e cla ms in co ld, sa lted wate r in the refri ge rato r for at least 4 ho urs to purge the sa nd. Use 15 g of non-iodized sa lt fo r eve ry 1 kg of water. (Iodin e is leth al to clams.)

tend to b e cl ea ner. Yo u ca n eliminate grit f rom parti cularl y sand y clams by so akin g th em in a no n-i o dized sa lt brin e, and b y cutting away the sm all sack of inn ard s th at is attached to th e b o tto m of each cl am b elly.

Pu ll the clams f rom th e bri ne gently; do not d isturb t he sand on t he botto m of the bowl. Scrub each shell w ith a d ish spo nge

Pl ace the cl ams in a zip-to p bag. Stea m them fo r 2 minutes above bo iling water in a cove red p ot to re lax th e adductor muscles, and t hen plunge th e bag into ice w ater.

o r nailbrush reserved fo r t h is purpose .

Place a bowl und er a strain er, and empty th e contents of th e bag into the strain er. Coll ect th e juices- th ey give a flavorful boost to sauces and bro ths. Transfer the cla ms to a cl ea n bowl.

Shuck th e clam meat from th e shells ove r th e strainer to ca ptu re additio nal jui ces. To do so, slip the blade of a small, sharp knife in between the two shells of each clam (Sa), and sever th e adductor muscl e near th e hinge (S b). Open th e shell, and cut the meat free.

A ll ow any grit to settle to the b otto m of th e rese rved broth, and deca nt th e collected ju ices through a fin e strain er lin ed w ith cheesecl oth.

Clams cooked traditionally (right) lose so much of their juice that they often become wrinkled and chewy. Only the sauce that remains is any good. But clams cooked sous vide (left) are plump and juicy every time. In this photo. the innards have been cut away.

SH ELLFIS H

287

LOBSTER ROLL YIELD: TIME ESTIMATE: STORAGE NOTES: LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY: SPECIAL REQUIREMENTS:

four servings (750 g/ 3 cups of lobster salad) 2 hours overall, including 10 hours ofpreparation and 30 minutes unattended cooked lobster and dressed lobster salad keep for up to 1 day when refrigerated moderate sous vide setup, Vacuum-Infused Celery (see page 131), Tomato Leather (optional, see page 129)

You might think it's hard to improve on an old-fashioned lobster

Green apples and herbs freshen the lobster salad, and infused celery

roll-until you taste one made with lobster cooked with precision

and tomato leather add a Modernist twist. Don't bother messing

to attain ideal sweetness and tenderness . Butter infused with lobster

with a boutique hot dog bun in this New England classic-go with

shells (see page 122) adds extra flavor and color to the toasted bun.

the usual supermarket variety. Fancier rolls detract from the lobster.

INGREDIENT

WEIGHT

SCALING

PROCEDURE

Live lobsters

1.5 kg/ 3.3 1b 2 1arge lobsters

300%

Ne utral-tasting oil

lO g

CD 0 ®

VOLUME

10 mL / 2 tsp

Place th e tail meat pi eces and half of the oil in a zip -top bag. Place th e claw and knu ckl e meat with th e rest of th e oil in a separate zip-top bag. Re move as mu ch air as possibl e from th e bags, and sea l the m. Coo k th e tail meat so us vid e to a core te mpe rature of 49 •c / 120 •F, about 15 minu tes, and the n plunge th e bag in ice wate r. In crease the wate r bath te mpe rature to 55 •c / 131 •F. Cook th e claw and knu ck le meat so us vid e to a core te mp erature of 54 •c / 129 •F, about15 minutes, a nd the n plunge th e bag in ice wate r. Cut a ll of the lo bster meat into chun ks no large r than 1 cm/:Y. in .

Co mbin e, and mix th oroughly.

® ®

Season th e dressed lobste r meat.

Cooked lobster meat, from above Mayonnaise

500 g/ 1.11b 1y, cups

100%

200g

1 cup

40%

Preheat a wate r bath to 50 •c / 122 •F, and arrange an ice bath alongsid e. Kill, bla nch, a nd cl ea n the lobste rs; see page 284 for instruction s.

see page lO B

Granny Smith apple, finely diced Chives, thinly sliced Tarragon, minced Black pepper, ground

40g

:Y. cup

4g 4g to taste

2 Tbsp 1 Tbsp

0.8% 0. 8%

Salt

to taste

Hot dog buns (store-bought) Pressure-Cooked Crustacean Butter or clarified, unsalte d butte r

4 bun s 30g

2Tbsp

20 g

2Y' Tbsp

Warm th e crustacea n butte r to room te mpe rature, and spread it ge nerously o n the in side of th e buns. Pl ace th e buns facedown in a dry frying pan, and toast the m ove r medium heat until gold e n brown, a bout 2 minutes.

see pages 122 o rll9

Vacuum-Infused Cele ry see page 131

Tomato Leather, strips (optional)

@ Divide the dressed lobste r meat eve nly a mo ng th e toasted buns. Garni sh with ce lery and tom ato leathe r, a nd se rve imm ediate ly.

16 strips

see page 129

Safety tipsfa r lightly cookedfoo d: see page xxv

VARIATIONS

Shrimp or Crab Roll Skip step 1- 6. At step 7, substitute cooked shrimp or storebought cooked crab for the lobster. Sous Vide Lobster Tail To make a ma in course of lobster, preheat a wate r bath to 55 •c / 131 • F. Seal th e sh e ll ed lobster tail meat with 20 g of butte r in a zip-top bag, re move the air, and seal. Cook so us vid e to a core te mpe rature of 54 •c / 129 •F, a bout12 minutes. Se rve with me lted butte r and fresh he rbs, or with Cara me lized Ca rrot Puree (se e page 178) a nd a dusting of Ch aat Masal a (se e page 136).

288

MO DE RNI ST CU ISIN E AT HOM E

17 1

Preheat a water bath to 50 •c / 122 •F, and arrange an ice-water bath alongs ide.

Kill, blanch, and clean the lobsters; see the step-by-step procedure on page 284.

Cook the tail meat so us vide to a core temperature of 49 •c / 120 • F, about1 5 minutes. Imm ediate ly plunge the bag in ice water.

~II_ .

'~' · ~~ ~~

In crease the temperature of the water bath to 55 •c / 131 •F. Cook the claw and knuckle meat so us vide to a core temperature of 54 •c / 129 • F, about 15 minutes, and then submerge the bag in ice water.

Spread crustacean butter generous ly on the in side of the buns. Place the buns, butteredside down, in a frying pan over medium heat, and toast them until golden, about 2 minutes.

Cut all of the lobster meat into chunks no larger than 1 cm / :Ys in. Discard any bits of she ll you come across.

Comb in e the diced lobster, mayonnaise, app le, ch ives, tarragon, and pepper, and stir until thoroughly mixed.

Season the dressed lobste r meat with salt to taste.

Divide the dressed lobster meat even ly among the toaste d buns. Garnish the sandwiches with infused celery and tomato leather, and se rve th em imm ed iately.

SHEllfISH

289

MUSSELS MARINIERE YIELD: TIME ESTIMATE: STORAGE NOTES : LEVEL OF D IFFICULTY: SPEC IAL REQU IREMENTS:

four servings (500 g/ about 35 mussels) 45 minutes overall, including 35 minutes ofpreparation and 10 minutes unattended serve immediately moderate sous vide setup

Throughout France, you see people sitting in bistros and brasseries feasting on bowls of sweet, tender mussels that have been cooked in w ine, savory brine juices, and garlic. This classic dish is easy to overcook, however; all too often the mussels end up tough, dry, and disappointing. Cooking the mussels sous vide solves that problem.

Forget the old rule that any mussel that doesn't open when cooked is bad. By the time mussels pop all the way open, many of them are probably overcooked. A bad mussel either smells very strongly or looks dry and shriveled, so inspect them as you shuck them before cooking.

SCALING

PROCEDURE

100% 30% 20%

Pre heat a water bath to 62 •c / 144 •F. Bring a pot of wate r to a boi l, and set a large stea me r rack above the water. Arrange an ice bath a longside. 0 De bea rd and scrub the musse ls (see ste ps 1-2 on page 286). ® Place th e mu ssels, shallots, a nd wine in a heat-safe plasti c bag. @ Stea m for 2 minutes, plunge th e mu sse ls into th e ice bath, and th en shu ck the m. Co ll ect a nd strai n th e juices (see ste ps 3-6 o n page 286). ® Sea l th e strained jui ces with th e musse l meats in a zip-top bag (see page 58), and coo k the m so us vid e fo r 10 minutes. ® Strain th e mu sse ls, and measure 70 g/ 70 mL / Y. cup of th e mussel juices for use in step 10.

10 mL / 2 tsp 1 Tbsp 2Y, tsp

2% 2% 1.6%

Saute over me dium heat until th e shallots a nd ga rli c a re lightly browned a nd aromatic, abo ut 5 minutes. Add to th e pan, and cook for a few seconds.

VO LU ME

IN GRED IENT

WEIG HT

live mussels Dry white wine Sha ll ots, thinly sliced

500 g/ l.llb about 35 musse ls 150 mL /o/a cup 150 g 1 cup 100 g

Extra-virgin olive oi l Sha llots, minced Garlic, minced

lO g lO g 8g

Chili flakes

O.Sg

Y.. tsp

0.1 %

Dry white win e

45 g

45 mL / 3 Tbsp

® ®

Mussel juice, from above

70 g

70mL /YJ cup

14%

@ Add, bring to a simm er, and th en re move th e pan from th e heat.

Italia n parsley, th inly sl iced Tarragon, thin ly sli ce d Thyme leaves

1 Tbsp

0.4%

@ Stir into the sauce, add th e mussel meats, stir gentl y to coat, a nd th e n re move the musse l meats from th e pan so as not to ove rcook the m.

1g 1g

1 tsp ltsp

0. 2% 0 .2%

Sa lt Lemon juice

to taste to taste

Add, and redu ce until syrupy, about 4 minutes.

@ Season, and serve imm ediate ly. Safety tipsfor lightly cookedfood: see page xxv

Mussel juices The natural juices that co me out of mussels when they open are very flavorful. Chefs use mussel juice to add depth to butter sauces for fish and soups. Be sure to save any extra juices-or at least have some good bread and olive o il handy so that you don't waste any ofthis precious liqu id .

290

MO DER NIS T CUIS INE AT HOM E

Pre heat a water bath to 62 •c / 144 •f. Bring a pot of wate r to a boi l. Set a large stea me r rack above th e wate r, and arrange an ice bath alongsid e the pot.

De bea rd and scrub the musse ls by following ste ps 1-2 on page 286.

Place th e musse ls with th e sha llots and wine in a heat-safe plasti c bag such as a roasting, freeze r, or so us vid e bag. Th e purpose of the bag is to capture the juice; it doesn't need to be sea led .

Stea m the musse ls for 2 minutes, plunge th em immediately into the ice wa ter, and th en shu ck th em . Coll ect and strain th e shu cki ng juices (see steps 3-6 o n p age 28 6). The musse ls should no t be

Place t he strain ed jui ces an d m usse l meats in a zip -to p bag. Remove as much air as p ossib le (see page 58), and sea l th e bag.

Strain th e musse ls, and meas ure 70 g / 70 ml / YJ cup of t he ju ices for use in step 10.

Coo k th e musse l meats so us vide for 10 minu tes.

coo ked th ro ugh; this step simpl y makes t hem easier to shu ck.

Co mb ine the o il, shall ots, and garli c in a sa ute pan, and cook over medium heat until th e shallots and ga rli c are lightly browned and aro mat ic, about 5 minutes.

Add t he chili fl akes, and coo k fo r a

Add t he w hite wine, and contin ue cook-

few seco nds.

ing until the m ixture t urns syrup y, abou t 4 minu tes.

Add t he rese rved mussel jui ce. Return the mi xture to a si mm er, and t hen

Stir in th e Itali an pars ley, tarragon, and th yme, add th e musse l meats, stir ge ntly to coat, and then remove them from th e pan to avo id ove rcook ing th em .

re move th e pan fro m th e heat .

Seaso n th e dish wi th sa lt and lemon ju ice, and se rve it imm ed iately. Do n't let th e mu sse ls sit in th e hot ju ices fo r mo re th an a few seco nds, or else t hey w ill get too firm .

SHELL FI SH

291

CLAMS IN CHOWDER SAUCE YIELD: TIME ESTIMATE: STORAGE NOTES: LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY: SPECIAL REQUIREMENTS:

Jour servings (360 g/ 30-40 clams) 1 hour overall, including 45 minutes ofpreparation and 15 minutes unattended keeps for 1 day when refrigerated moderate pressure cooker, aerolatte, whey protein isolate (optional)

In this lighter take on the classic soup, clams are dressed in a warm,

Whey protein isolate, which we add to make the broth foamy, is a

foamy sauce. For a more substantial dish that is closer to a typical

protein derived from milk. You can find it at health-food stores, but

chowder, add extra chowder broth, and stir in some caramelized

do not confuse it with sweet or flavored whey powders sold for pro-

onions (see page 127) and some microwave-steamed fingerling

tein shake mixes. If you prefer more fully cooked clam meats, see the

potatoes cut into bite-size pieces (see variation on page 126).

table on page 286 for sous vide time-and-temperature combinations.

INGRED IENT

WEIGHT

Littlen eck clams Drywhitewine Shallots, thinly sliced

750 g/ 1.7 1b 30- 40 clams 150g 150 mL/o/s cup 100g 1 cup

Bacon, diced

36g

Yellow onion, diced Celery, diced

VOLUME

SCALING

PROCEDURE

100% 20% 13%

CD 0

Y. cup

4.8%

0 Sweat in the base of a pressure cooker over medium heat until lightly

65g 65g

y, cup y, cup

9% 9%

® ®

Add to the bacon, and sweat until translucent, about 2 minutes . Add the reserved clam juice, and pressure-cook at a gauge pressure of 1 bar/ 15 psi for15 minutes. Start timing when full pressure is reached. @) Let the cooker cool, or run tepid water over the rim, to depressurize it. @ Strain, and measure 200 g/ 200 mL/?'s cup of the clam chowder broth for use in the next step.

Heavy cream

300g

330 mL/lYs cups

40%

@ Comb in e in a saucepan with the reserved clam chowder broth, and

Whey protein isolate (optional)

lY2Tbsp

0.8%

@ Whisk into the simmering broth. @ Blend the broth until smooth and foamy by using an immersion blender or aero latte.

Worcestershire sauce Cayenne pepper Salt

0.5g 0 .1g to taste

1 drop pinch

0.07% 0.01 %

Soak and scrub the clams as shown in steps 1-2 on page 287. Bring a pot ofwaterto a boil, and set a large steamer rack above the water. Arrange an ice bath alongside. ® Place the clams, wine, and sha llots in a heat-safe plastic bag. @) Steam for 2 minutes, plunge the bag into the ice bath, and then shuck the clams. Col lect and strain the juices (see steps 3-6 on page 287). ® Measure 240 g/ 245 mL/ 1 cup of clam juice for use in step 9. ® Rinse the clam meats in cold water. rendered but not brown, about 2 minutes .

simmer over low heat until reduced by about one th ird .

@ Season the sauce. @ Stir the clam meats into the sauce, and remove it from the heat. Allow to

sit 20 seconds to just warm the clams through, and serve imm ed iately. Safety tipsfor pressure-cooking: see page 33 Safety tipsfor lightly cookedfo od: see page xxv

TO MAKE AHEAD After rinsing the clam meats in step 6, sea l them in a zip-top bag with the remaining juices, and refrigerate for no more than 24 hours. When ready to make the chowder, continu e with step 7. In step 16, let the clams sit for 1 minute in the hot sauce to warm through. VARIATIONS

Oyster Stew Substitute diced leeks for the bacon, and substitute oyster meats and juice for the clams.

Pistachio Clam Chowder At step 13, stir in 36 g/ 3 Tbsp of Pistachio Pes to (see page 102).

South of France Chowder Add 39 g / 3 Tbsp of Rouille (see variation on page 108) at the last second before serving.

292

MODERNIST CU I SINE AT HOM E

SOUS VIDE BRAISED SNAILS YIELD: TIME ESTIMATE: STORAGE NOTES: LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY: SPECIAL REQUIREMENTS: GOES WELL WITH:

four servings (200 g I 24 snails) 5~ hours overall, including 15 minutes ofpreparation and 5 hours unattended keeps for up to 5 days when refrigerated or up to 3 months when frozen easy sous vide setup, canned French Helix snails Pressure-Cooked Paella del Bosco (see page 326)

Although canned snails are already cooked, the sous vide treatment

escargot by stirring them into melted butter with minced garlic and

described here infuses them with flavor and makes them wonder-

parsley, or into Montpellier Butter (see page 120).

fully tender. Use braised snails in paella, or serve them solo as classic INGREDIENT

WEIGHT

Canned French He lix snails

200g

White chicken stock,

300g

VOLUME 24 large sna ils

300 mL / 1\4 cups

SCALING

PROCEDURE

100%

CD 0

150%

frozen, or ice see page 84

Carrots, thinly sliced

Preheat a water bath to 68 •c / 154 •F. Clean the snail s. Drain the liquid, and peel away and discard the stomach and intestines of the snails . Co mbin e with the cleaned snails in a bag, and vacuum sea l.

@) Cook so us vide for 5 hours. 100g

50%

1 cup

Sweet onion, thinly sliced 90g

?'a cup

45%

Salt

7.5g

2tsp

3.8%

Thyme

0.7g

1 large sprig

0.4%

Fresh bay leaf

0.2g

11eaf

0.1 %

Drain, reserving the juices.

@ Pick out the s na il meat, and discard the vegetables and aro matics.

(?) Serve warm, or store, refrigerated, in the rese rved juices.

The stomach and intestines of the snails can be very gritty. Use the flat of a knife to pull them off.

It doesn't take much to sta rt a sna il farm, and anthropologists think that snai ls were one of the first mollusks to have been farmed by humans. Only oysters have been cultivated longer.

Snails braised sous vide (left) and then stirred with melted Montpellier butter and minced Italian parsley (right) make a terrific snack or appetizer when spooned onto a toasted baguette.

SHELLFISH

293

The first pizza mar. have been born in Italy, but its descendants now cover the world and have evolved into diverse forms. New Yorkers love their large, thin-crust pizzas, served by: the slice. In Chicago, the deep-dish pies are at least an inch thicK. Tradition-

Âˇ

...

But the doughs work for other styles of pizza as well. We 've included our six favorite dough recipes: a classic traditional dough; a no-knead dough that creates a fluffy crust witli

MODERNIST CUISINE

NEAPOLITAN PIZZA DOUGH YIELD: TIME ESTIMATE: STORAGE NOTES: LEVEL OF DIFF ICULTY: SPECIAL REQUIREMENTS:

800 g (enough for four 30-35 ern/ 12-14 in pizzas) 1~ hours overall, including 30 minutes ofpreparation and 1 hour unattended keeps for 3 days when refrigerated in plastic wrap or up to 3 months when frozen moderate stand mixer with dough hook, Antico Caputo 00 wheat flour, vital wheat gluten

This is a classic Neapolitan pizza dough. It's best when rolled thin

create an elastic dough; buy it online or at specialty food markets.

and cooked quickly at a very high temperature. Antico Caputo 00 is an extremely fine wheat flour used by most pizzerias in Naples to

You can substitute all-purpose flour, but you may need to add up to 10% more water.

INGREDIENT

WEIGHT

VOLUME

SCALING

PROCEDURE

00 wheat flour (Antico Caputo brand)

500g

3:Y., cups

100%

Water Honey or agave syrup Salt Vital wheat gluten (Bob's Red Mill brand) Active dry yeast

310g lO g lO g 2.5g

310 mL / l YJ cups 2 tsp

62% 2%

2Y' tsp ,y, tsp

2% 0.5%

2.5g

:Y., tsp

0.5%

Neutral fry ing oil

as needed

Mix in the bowl of a stand mixer with a dough hook until fully incorporated. 0 Mix on medium speed for 5 minutes. ® Let the dough rest in the bowl forlO minutes at room temperature, and then mix again for 5 minutes on medium speed. @) Transfer the dough to a well-floured surface, and cut it into four 200 g chunks. Stretch and roll it into smooth, even balls.

see page xxii

Coat the balls lightly with oil, cover them with plastic wrap, and let them rest at room temperature forl hour before using.

Pizza doughs (left to right): No-Knead (see page 300), Quinoa (see variation below), Rustic (see page 298), and Whole Wheat (see variation on page 298)

VARIATIONS Quinoa Pizza Dough Quinoa flour, ava il ab le at health-food stores and gourmet supermarkets, makes a nutritious pizza dough that has a dense, chewy texture and a nutty taste. Qu in oa dough is less stretchy than dough made only from wheat flour, so use care when forming it. Substitute 250 g/ H's cups of all-purp ose flour and 250 g / 1% cups of quinoa flour for the 00 wheat flour. Increase the amount of vital wheat gluten to 5 g / 2'/:z tsp.

Buckwheat Pizza Dough Buckwheat is the grain used to make Japanese soba. It has a hearty flavor and a coarse mouthfeel. Substitute fine, sifted buckwheat flour forl50 g/ 1y, cups of Antico Caputo 00 wheat flour, and increase the amount of gluten to 5 g/ 2'/:z tsp.

Breadsticks Divide the rested dough into 55 g pieces, and shape the pieces into batons. Arrange the batons on a lightly greased baking sheet. Brush them lightly with beaten egg, and sprink le about 1 g / Y, tsp of grated Parmesan cheese over each. Bake at 220 •c; 430 "F until go ld en brown, 12-15 minutes.

296

MODERNIST CUISINE AT HOME

Mix the flour, water, honey, sa lt, gluten, and yeast in th e bowl of a stand mixer with a dough hook until fully incorporated.

2 3

Mix on medium speed for 5 minutes.

Let the dough rest in the bowl forlO minutes at room temperature, and then mix aga in for another 5 minutes on medium speed. Allowing the gluten to relax between kneadings creates an especia lly smooth, stretchy dough.

Transfer the dough to a well-floured surface, and cu t it into four chunks of200 g each. Stretch and roll the dough into smooth, even balls. Stretching the surface layer develops a network of gluten that traps air inside the ball, resulting in a lighter, more blistered crust.

OTHER USES FOR DOUGH

TROUBLESHOOTING TIP : The finished dough should pull away from the sid es (as shown above), not th e bottom, of the mi xing bowl. If it does not pull away from the sid es, sp rinkl e in a teaspoon of flour, and let it fully mix, repeating until the sid es of the bowl are clean.

Coat the balls lightly with oil, cove r them with plastic wrap, and allow them to ri se at roo m temperature for1 hour before using. For a more co mplex flavor, refri gerate th e dough balls overnight, and then let them rest at room temperature for1 hour before using.

"Everything" Pretzels Garlic Knots Shape 15 g (walnut-size) pieces of dough into ropes, and ti e th em loose ly into knots. Dee p-fry the knots in 175 °C/ 35 0 °Fneutral frying oil until go lden brown, abo ut 90 seconds, and drain. Alternatively, bake at 220 oc ; 430 °Funtil go ld en brown, 3-4 minutes. Brush the cooked knots with Garlic Oil (see variation on page 11 8), sprinkle with salt, and se rve hot.

Divide the dough into 45 g portions, roll into long ropes, and shape into pretzels. Place th e pretzels on a lightly greased baking shee t. Brush th em lightly with beaten egg, and spri nkl e them with a mixture of20 g/ 3 Tbsp of o nion flakes, 10 g / 1\4 tsp of black sesame seeds, 7 g/2 tsp of salt, 5 g/ 2 tsp of poppy seeds, and 5 g / 1 Tbsp of garl ic powder. Bake at 220 oc ; 425 °F until go ld en brown, about12 minutes.

PIZZA

Cinnamon-Sugar Doughnut Holes Shape 10 g (grape-size) pieces of dough into balls. Deep-fry th e balls in 175 oc / 350 °F neutral frying oil until golden brown, about 90 seconds. Drain, and toss in cinnamon sugar made by mixing 100 g / Y2 cup of sugar with 2 g / 1 tsp of ground cinn amon. Serve hot.

297

RUSTIC PIZZA DOUGH YIELD : TIME ESTIMATE : STORAGE NOTES: LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY: SPECIAL REQUIREMENTS :

1 kg (enough for five 30-35 em/ 12-14 in pizzas) 241/2 hours overall, including 30 minutes ofpreparation and 24 hours unattended keeps for 3 days when refrigerated or up to 3 months when frozen advanced (handling) stand mixer with dough hook or dough scraper; Foolish (see the next page); vital wheat gluten

The fermentation of the poolish, described on the next page, adds

so it's best to use a stand mixer. If you must knead it by hand, lightly

a complex flavor to this dough and the enzymatic activity enhances

flour your hands while handling it rather than stirring in more flour.

the browning of the crust by creating simple sugars. This country-

Shape the pizzas gently so as not to tear them.

style dough is softer and stickier than most pizza and bread doughs, INGREDIENT

WEIGHT

VOLUME

SCALING

PROCEDURE

All-purpose flour Pool ish

500g 312g

3YJ cups 1Y2 cups

100% 62%

0 Mix in the bowl of a stand mixer w ith a dough hook until fully incorpo-

see the next page

Water Honey or agave syrup Salt

200g 48g 15g

200 mL / % cup 2Y,Tbsp 5tsp

40% 10% 3%

Vital wheat gluten (Bob's Red Mill brand)

lOg

2Tbsp

Active dry yeast

\4 tsp

0 .2%

Neutral frying oil

as needed

Let the dough rest in the bowl forlO minutes at room temperature, and then mix again for 5 minutes on medium speed . If the dough does not pull away from the sides of the bowl, sprinkl e in 1 tsp of flour, and resume mixing. Repeat as needed until the sid es of the bowl are clean .

Transfer the dough to a well-floured surface, and cut it into five chunks of 200 g each.

® ®

Stretch and roll the chunks into smooth, round balls.

see page xxii

VA RI ATI ON: Whole Wheat Pizza Dough Substitute whole wheat flour for all-purpose flour to make a dense, chewy, and wholesome variation.

rated . For instructions on hand-kneading, see below. Continue mixing on medium speed for another 5 minutes . Th e dough w ill stick to the bowl; do not add extra flour.

Lightly coat the balls with oil, cover them with plastic wrap, and refrigerate them for 24 hours so that the flavor continu es to deve lop. To make a pizza crust, remove the dough from the refrigerator, and let it rest at room temperature for1 hour before forming the crust.

Rustic Pizza Dough can be made with many d ifferent flours . Other flours may yie ld a slightly more comp lex flavor and a more e lastic textu re.

HOW TO Knead Dough by Hand - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - If you don't own a stand mixer, you can still make pizza! Here are simp le instructions for properly kneading dough by hand, w hi ch can be used

Mix the ingredients in a bowl until fully in co rporated. Use a wooden spoon.

If you find the dough is sticking to your hands and becomes unworkable, fold the dough with one hand, and use a do ugh scraper in the other.

298

when making any of our recipes for pizza dough.

Knead the dough by hand for 7-8 minutes. Work on a cool stee l or marble surface, if possible. The dough will stick to your hands, but try not to add extra flour. To release dough from your hands when you have finished kneading, rub your hands with flour.

MOD ERNIS T CUI SINE AT HOME

Let the dough rest for10 minutes, and knead it aga in for 7- 8 minutes. It shou ld feel springy and smooth. lfit is sti ll sticky, sp rinkle in a teaspoon of flour, and in corporate fully. Continu e with steps 4- 7.

18 POOLISH 1.4kg 24 hours overall, including 5 minutes ofpreparation and 24 hours unattended keeps indefinitely with regular care and feeding easy

YIELD: TIME ESTIMATE: STORAGE NOTES: LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY:

Poolish is not a misspelling of polish or Polish. It is the French term for "prefermented dough sponge." Similar in concept to a sourdough starter, poolish is a living organism, sometimes known as a "mother dough " or "pre-ferment." Temperature and humidity determine the

make a little more than you need for our Rustic Pizza Dough recipe on the previous page, but with regular care and feeding, the poolish can be kept alive for years. You can use it to make breads and pastries as well as pizza crusts. Don't omit the whole wheat flour; its nutrients help the poolish thrive.

rate at which poolish develops its flavor and aroma. This recipe will INGREDIENT

WEIGHT

VOLUME

SCALING

PROCEDURE

Water Bread flour Whol e wheat flour Active dry yeast

875g 250g 250g 1g

875 mL / 3:Y.. cups 1:Y.. cups 1:Y.. cups Y., tsp

350% 100% 100% 0.4%

G) Mix all thorough ly. 0 Place in a deep con tain e r, filling to no more than one-quarter ful l to all ow for rising, and cove r it. ® Store the cove red conta in e r in a dark place at15-21 •c / 60-70 •F. 0 Check the next day for flavor and aroma. It shou ld be bubbly and sme ll sweet a nd yeasty, with light sour notes. Stir before using.

Mix the flours, water, and yeast thoroughly.

Place in a conta iner large enough to all ow the mixture to expand to four or five times its sta rting size as it rises, and cover it.

the container in a dark area, such as a 4 3 Store kitchen cabinet, where the temperature wil l rema in within the range 15-21 •c / 60-70 •F. Cooler temperatures slow fermentation; warmer temperatures ca n acce lerate fermentation so much that the yeast dies.

Check the appearance, flavor, an d a roma of th e poolish after24 hours. It shou ld look bubbly, taste slightl y sour, and sme ll sweet and yeasty, slightly li ke alco hol. Stir before usi ng, and see the note be low for instructions on how to ca re for the pool ish .

Care and feeding of pool ish To keep the pool ish alive, you must feed it every other day for the first two weeks after you build it. Do not refrigerate it during this period. To feed the pool ish, remove half of it, weigh that portion, and then either discard it or use it for baking. Next, wh isk equa l weights of water and flour into the pool ish remaining in the container; the total weight of the water a nd flour should equa l the weight of the pool ish you removed. Cover it until the next feeding. After two weeks, refrigerate the pool ish, which will cause the yeast to go dormant. ow you need to feed it only once a week. After each feed ing, let the pool ish sit out for a few hours before covering it and returning it to the refrigerator.

·...•

.. •..,;

..:

..•

PI ZZA

Starters Sourdough starters are a form of poo lish that are inoculated with both yeast and bacteria (usually lactobacilli) that produce lactic acid and, with it, the characteristic sour taste of sourdough. Sourdough poolish must be started from a culture. You can order many kinds of starter cultures from Sourdough International (www.sourdo.com).

299

NO-KNEAD PIZZA DOUGH YIELD:

850 g (enough for four 30-35 em/ 12-14 in pizzas)

TIME ESTIMATE:

170 hours overall, including 30 minutes ofpreparation and 17 hours unattended

STORAGE NOTES:

keeps for 3 days when refrigerated or up to 3 months when frozen moderate vital wheat gluten

LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY: SPECIAL REQUIREMENTS :

This pizza crust is light and fluffy, flavorful, and easy to make. The

but it is much gentler. Never press or work the dough, or you will

dough is based on Jim Lahey's recipe for No-Knead Country Bread.

squeeze out the bubbles; just fold, let rest, and repeat.

Folding the dough may at first seem like a variation on kneading, INGREDIENT

WEIGHT

VOLUME

SCALING

PROCEDURE

All-purpose flour Salt Vital wheat gluten (Bob's Red Mill brand)

500g

3y, cups

lOg 5g

2V2 tsp 1 Tbsp

100% 2% 1%

Active dry yeast

1.5g

V2 tsp

0.3%

Water

375g

375 mL/ lo/a cups

75%

Neutral-tasting oil

as needed

Stir the water and other dough ingredients together just until they are combined and thoroughly moistened. The mixture does not need to be smooth.

Developing flavors If you all ow the dough to ferment for48 hours or longe r, more comp lex yeast and so urd ough flavors will develop, simi lar to what you would get with a pool ish (see previous page).

300

Mix in a large bowl.

0 ®

Add to the dry ingredients, and stir to combine. Cover the bowl with a clean, dry dish towel, and let the dough rest in a warm place (21-27 "C/ 70-80 "F) for16-48 hours. @) Scrape the dough onto a wel l-fl oured work surface. ® Fold the dough in half gently several times, without pressing or squeezing, and continue folding until it becomes so springy and elastic that it no longer folds easily. Let the dough rest for1 minute. Repeat for a total of eight folds in 5 minutes.

Cutthe dough into four chunks of200 geach. Stretch and roll each piece into a smooth, round ball.

Coat the balls lightly with oil, cover the m with plastic wrap, and let them rest at room temperature for1 hour before using.

As you fold the dough, be gentle: do not squeeze or knead it. At first. you may be able to fold it in half three or four times before it becomes too springy to fold easily. Pause for 1minute to let the dough rest when that happens, and then begin folding again. Because the dough becomes progressively more resistant to handling. after the first resting period it will require further rest after only one or two folds. Stop once you have completed eight folds in 5 minutes. The goal is to maintain the natural bubbles that formed during the fermentation process while you develop new air bubbles and gluten threads in the dough.

MODERNIST CUISINE AT HOME

As you roll the chunks of dough into balls. the surface layer stretches, and a network of gluten traps air inside the ball. The result after baking is a lighter and nicely blistered crust.

18 PIZZA STONES, PLATES, AND PANS Some like it hot, but pizzas like it really hot. A traditional, wood-burning pizza oven can easily reach and hold a uniform temperature of 430540 â&#x20AC;˘c / 800-1,000 Âˇ F-the ideal range for making a crisp, blistered pizza. Higher temperatures risk burning the pizza before it is cooked al l the way through. Too cool an oven can yield a flaccid, chewy crust. A cold pizza immedi ate ly absorbs heat from the oven, so it 's crucial

Steel plate

to preheat the oven fully. It also helps to add mass to the oven that se rves as a reservoir of heat and prevents the temperature from dipping too much. We have experimented in our research kitchen with a variety of metal plates, pizza stones, and pans to find the best options, which are shown below. Avoid aluminum plates, and steel plates thicker than about 2.5 cm / 1 in, as they tend to burn the bottom of the pizza.

Steel plate, 6-12 mm / l;P/ 2 in thick

Stone

Preheating time: at least 1 hour Pros: high thermal capacity cooks the crust evenly and produces lots of charred blisters Cons: expensive; heavy; may require custom fabrication

Pizza stone Preheating time: at least 30 minutes Pros: even heat distribution, develops a good crust co lor, with so me blistering Cons: lower thermal capacity and less temperature stab ility Iron frying pan

Iron griddle

Cast-iron griddle or pan Preheating time: at least 30 minutes; coat lightly with oil before preheating Pros: inexpensive; widely avai lable; high thermal capacity Cons: can dry pizzas slightly and produces few blisters; oi l slightly alters the flavor of the crust

HOW WE FIGURED OUT

The Best Setup for Baking Pizza in a Hom e Oven In dozens of experiments involving more than 100 pizzas, we explored a wide range of materials and methods for cooking a pizza at home. Computerized temperature-logging gear allowed us to track eight separate temperatures, from the oven wa ll to the baking surface to the dough, as the cooking progressed . Our main goal was to find the cooking surface that best transfers heat to the raw pizza dough . Every surface will cool to

some degree when the pizza goes in, but the dip in temperature should be as shallow and brief as possible. As we expected, thick metal plates hold their preheated temperature better than thin ones, but they also take longer to preheat and to recover from a drop in temperature. Our bottom -line conclusion: a dark (not shiny) steel plate 12 mm I Y2 in thick is the best option. A steel plate half that thick also works quite well.

PIZZA

3 01

HOW TO Make a Pizza You can build a great pizza if you master three crucial elements: the dough, the toppings, and the baking. Stretching out pizza dough is a delicate art that rewards patience and practice . Topping a pizza is all about ba lance: find ing t hat idea l ratio of dough to topp ings that all ows

Remove the pizza dough from the refrigerator, cover it, and let it warm for an hour to room temperature. If the dough was frozen, first defrost it in the refrigerator overnight . Covering the dough keeps the surface from drying out and form ing a crust.

Whi le the dough is warming, prepare a baking surface {see the previous page for options). Set the oven temperature as high

the pizza to cook through quickly and evenly, producing a comb ination of crisp and chewy textures. Baking a pizza we ll requ ires the right toolsa very hot and stable oven and baking surface, a pizza pee l of the right size-and a keen sense of timing.

as it wi ll go; 260 "C/ 500 "F is a min imum.

Stretch and fl atten the dough on a floured work surface by using your fingers to press the middle of the dough flat, and then work the dough outward. Leave a narrow ridge at the perimeter.

Dust a pizza pee l {or a baking sheet) with a light, even dusting of flour. Tap the side of the pee l on the countertop to knock off any excess flou r. If the cooked pizza crust tastes

like burnt flou r, the pee l was overfloured . If the pizza crust sticks, you probab ly used too li ttle flour.

Drape the dough over the back of your hand, and then rotate it slowly. The weight of the dough should gently stretch it to a circular shape and even thickness, 3035 cm / 12- 14 in. in diameter. Small blisters and bubbles should form in the dough. Th ese are good!

6 302

Place the dough onto a pizza peel. Jerk the peel sharply back and forth; this prevents the dough from sticking to the peel.

MODERNIST CUISINE AT HOME

Spread the sauce evenly over the dough, but leave the oute rm ost 2.5 cm / 1 in ofthe perimeter dry.

Cook the pizza until the crust turns brown and blisters, 3-5 minutes. Some of the larger bubb les shou ld look almost burnt.

Sprinkle grated cheese even ly over the sauce.

Remove the pizza from the oven by using the pizza peel or baking sheet, and slide it on a coo ling rack. This keeps the crust crisp.

Season the pie with fresh basi l, chi li flakes, sa lt, and o live oil. Don't forge t to season the very edge of the crust, and give it a little drizzle of oil, too. Serve th e pizza immediately.

To avo id losi ng heat fro m the oven, slide the pizza from the pee l onto the baking surface as quickly as possible.

A well-cooked pizza has scorched blisters on the bottom of the crust- although pizza can also be delicious without a blistered crust. If you don't see any blisters, your cook ing su rface is not hot enough. You can try using a metal plate, as described on page 301 . Also see page 34 for a guide to ovens and baking equipment.

CLASS IC PI ZZA VA RI AT IONS Napolitana Pizza Pizza Sauce

65 g

Y.. cu p

65 g

Y.. cup

see variation on page 112

see va ri ation on page 112

Mozzarella cheese, grated Roasted red pep per, sliced Olives, sliced White anchovy fillets Peco rino Romano, shaved Mint leaves

Hawaiian Pizza

Funghi Pizza Pizza Sauce

125 g 1o/s cups 30 g Ya cup 25g 20 g 15 g 3g

2Tbsp 7-9 fillets

Y.. cup 1 Tbsp

Fo ll ow steps 1-8. Add the peppers and o lives, a nd continu e with step 9. Ga rnish the baked pizza with the anchovies, Pecorino Romano, and torn mint leaves, and serve it imm ediately.

Mozzarella cheese, grated 125 g lo/a cups 125 g :Y.. cup Wild mushrooms (such as chanterelles, yellow foot, ma itake, or porcinis), sa uteed Follow steps 1-8. Add th e sauteed wild mushro oms. (If using black trumpet mushrooms, add the m raw rather than sa uteed .) Continue with step 9.

PIZZA

Pinea ppl e Marinara Sauce

100 g o/a cup

see va ri ation on page 11 2

Mozzarella cheese, grated 125 g lo/a cups 50 g 3-5 slices Culatello or prosci utto, thinly sliced Follow steps 1-11 . Garnish the baked pizza with th e cul ate ll o o r prosciutto, and serve it imm ediate ly.

303

PIZZA MARGHERITA YIELD: TIME ESTIMATE: STORAGE NOTES: LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY: SPECIAL REQUIREMENTS:

one 30-35 em/ 12-14 in pizza 15 minutes overall (not including preheating time) serve immediately advanced (equipment) steel plate 12 mm/ 0 in thick, pizza peel

This is a great basic pizza. The variations you can create are endless, but don't go overboard with your toppings: more than 150-200 g of toppings can render the crust wet and doughy. Many people put too much sauce or cheese on a margherita pizza, so it quickly gets soggy. You can vacuum-dry buffalo mozzarella (see photos below) or use

packaged, shredded mozzarella instead. Another approach is to add burrata or another wet mozzarella cheese to the pizza after you take it out of the oven. For an illustrated guide to making pizzas, see the previous pages.

INGREDIENT

WEIGHT

VOLUME

SCALING

PROCEDURE

Pizza dough

200 g

1 ball

100%

G) Rest the dough until it has warmed to room temperature, about 1 hour if previously refrigerated. 0 While the dough is warming, place a 12 mm /Y2 in thick steel plate on the middle rack of the oven. Set the oven to its highest setting, a minimum of 260 ' C/ 500 ' F, and preheat for 1 hour. ® Stretch and flatten the dough on a floured work surface. Press the middle of the dough flat with yo ur fingertips, and work the dough outward, leaving a narrow ridge at the perimeter. Stretch it over the back of your ha nd into a circle 30 -35 cm / 12-14 in. in diameter. 0 Place the round onto a lightly floured pizza peel, and then give the peel a sharp jerk to prevent sticking.

80g

5]h Tbsp

40%

80g

1'14 cups

40%

® 0 ®

see pages 296, 298, and 300

Pizza Sauce see va ri ation on page 112

Vacuum-dried buffalo mozzarella cheese, torn into pieces, or shredded mozzarella

® Fresh basil leaves, torn Chili flakes Salt Extra-virgin olive oil

3g to taste to taste to taste

7-81eaves

Spread the sauce evenly over the dough, leaving a dry perimeter 2.5 em / 1 in wide. Sprinkle the cheese evenly over the sauce. Slide the pizza onto the stee l plate as quick ly as possible. Cook until the pizza crust has browned and blistered and some of the larger bubbles look almost burnt, 3-5 minutes. Remove the pizza from the oven using the pizza peel, and place it on a cool ing rack .

@ Season the pizza, drizzle olive oil around the perimeter of the crust,

and serve it immediate ly.

Buffalo mozzarella is a very moist cheese that tends to make the pizza go soggy very quickly. You can avoid this problem by using packaged. shredded mozzarella, which is a much drier cheese. But we avoid this problem by vacuum-drying the buffalo mozzarella. Tear the cheese into small pieces, and place them between two paper towels. Slide the towels into a sous vide bag, and vacuum seal it. This technique uses air pressure to squeeze much of the moisture out of the mozzarella; it is then wicked up by the paper towels.

For pizza topping ideas, see Classic Pizza Variations o n the previous page and Pizza Toppings on page 306. A Napolitana pizza is shown here.

18 OVEN-FRIED PIZZA YIELD: TIME ESTIMATE: STORAGE NOTES: LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY: SPECIAL REQUIREMENTS:

one 30-35 ern/ 12-14 in pizza 15 minutes overall (not including preheating time) serve immediately advanced (handling) large cast-iron skillet, pizza peel

Old Forge, Pennsylvania, is a coal-mining town known for its unusual style of pizza, which is rectangular and fried in oil for a crispy crust. Our oven-fried pizza is not the true Old Forge style created by the Ghigiarelli family, but it is inspired by the original. Frying the pizza

creates a crust with a completely different flavor than you find on a baked pizza. When done properly, most of the oil stays in the pan and does not make the pizza greasy. Don't overload the pizzas with toppings, or they won't cook evenly.

INGREDIENT

WEIGHT

VOLUME

SCALING

PROCEDURE

Pizza dough

200 g

1 ball of dough

100%

0 Bring the pizza dough to room temperature.

see pages 296, 298, and 300

Sauce, cheese, and toppings

Preheat the oven to its highest setting, a minimum of260 °C/ 500 °Ffor at least 1 hour. ® Stretch and flatten the pizza dough on a floured work surface. Press the midd le of the dough flat with your fingert ips, and work the dough outward, leaving a narrow ridge at the perimeter (see page 302). Stretch the dough over the back of your hand unti l it is the diameter of your cast-iron skillet. @ Place the dough onto a lightly floured pizza peel. Top even ly with sauce, cheese, and desired toppings. When finished, give the peel a quick jerk to make sure it is not sticking to the crust. Ifit is, blow air underneath the crust, and add flour to the peel. ® Cut a sma ll X into the ce nter.

no more than 175 g total

see the next page

Neutral frying oil

BOg

85 mL /Ys cup

® CD ®

40%

see page xxii

Avent cut into the center of the crust allows pressure from the steam to escape while the pizza cooks.

Preheat a cast- iron skillet over high heat until very hot, 3-5 minutes. Add the oil to the pan, and continue to heat until just smoking. Slide the pizza carefully into the hot oil. Transfer the pan immediately into the hot oven, and cook until brown and bubbly, 3-4 minutes. Remove the pan from the oven . Lift the pizza onto a baking sheet lined with paper towels, let it drain, and then serve it immediately. To make additiona l pizzas, scoop out any bits from th e oil or add fresh oil, and reheat the skillet until the oil starts to smoke.

The bottom of the pizza should turn brown and bubbly after 3-4 minutes in the preheated skillet. You may need to experiment a bit to find the optimal baking time and preheating temperature for the skillet. If the bottom of the pizza overcooks, reduce the temperature of the pan slightly. If the top comes out undercooked, leave the pizza in the oven for a minute or two longer.

VARIATION : Deep-Dish Fried Pizza For a thicker, chewier pie that is closer to a crispy focaccia, double the quantity of dough, and increase the cook ing time at step 8 to 7-8 minutes.

PIZZA

305

MAC AND CHEESE YIELD: TIME ESTIMATE: STORAGE NOTES: LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY: SPECIAL REQUIREMENTS:

five servings (800 g/ 5 cups) 30 minutes overall serve pasta immediately; cheese sauce keeps for 1 week when refrigerated or up to 2 months when frozen moderate sodium citrate Elbow macaroni is the classic pasta for mac and cheese, but any

This recipe has been one of the most popular in Modernist Cuisine since that book appeared. Use it as a template to create your own version of a refined mac and cheese. There are so many potentially great cheese mixes and accompaniments that it was hard to pick just

kind of pasta works. Those varieties having a rough surface hold the sauce better. Although cheese lovers might be tempted to boost

the six that we have space for here.

A little goes a long way.

the sauce-to-pasta ratio, keep in mind that the sauce is very rich.

INGREDIENT

WEIGHT

VOLUME

SCALING

PROCEDURE

Water or milk Sodium citrate

265g llg

265 mL/ 1Ya cups

93% 4%

Combine in a pot, whisk to dissolve, and bring to a si mmer over medium heat.

White cheddar cheese, finely grated

285g

4 cups

100%

Add into the simmering li quid gradua ll y, blending each addition with an immersion blender until melted and completely smooth.

Water

as needed for cooking the pasta

Bring a large pot of water to a boil.

Dry macaro ni

240g

2 cups

84%

@ Boil until al dente according to the package directions, 5-6 minutes.

® ® Salt

Drain. Do not rinse the pasta. St ir in the warm cheese sauce, and fo ld in any accompaniments you wish to add (see the variations below).

0 Season the mac and cheese, and serve it immediately.

to taste

(adapted from Harold McGee)

VARIATIONS In the variations below, substitute the cheeses li sted for the white cheddar cheese at step 2, and fold in the add iti ons listed at step 6. Mac with Jack and Stilton Cheeses: 200 g/ 3 cups of jack and 50 g / y, cup of Stilton Fold in: roasted bell peppers and wilted baby spinach Mac with Sharp Cheddar and Swiss Cheeses: 200 g/ 3 cups of sharp cheddar and 85 g/ 1 cup of Swiss Fold in: chunks of roasted app le and crispy bacon bits Mac with Gorgonzola and Fontina Cheeses: 50 g/ y, cup of Gorgonzola and 235 g / 3 cups of young Fontina Fold in: walnuts and sauteed mushrooms Mac and Gruyere Cheeses: 285 g/ 4 cups of Gruyere Fold in: roasted cau liflower and roasted tomatoes Mac with Goat Gouda and Cheddar Cheeses: 142 g/ 2 cups of goat Gouda and 142 g/ 2 cups of goat cheddar Fold in: Pressure-Caramelized Onions (see page 127) and black ol ives

WHILE YOU ' RE AT IT Broccoli with Cheese Sauce Make a delicious side dish by substituting steamed broccoli for the pasta. We cut the broccoli into bite-size pieces so that the florets are enveloped by the cheese sa uce, just as pasta would be. Also try substituting cauliflower, steamed fingerling potatoes, green beans, shell ed edamame, sauteed button mushrooms, baby bok choy, or Brussels sprouts.

310

Fondue At step 1, substitute 200 g / 200 mL /?'a cup of water and 11 8 g/ 120 mL / y, cup of dry white wine for the water. At step 2, whisk in the cheese rather than using a blender so that the fondue is appropriate ly stringy. For a classic Swiss interpretation, use Em mental cheese, and add a dash ofk irsch.

MO DERNI ST CU ISI NE AT HOME

Whisk the sod ium citrate into the water or milk in a pot until full y dissolved, an d then

Add the finely grated cheese, one spoonful at a time, to the simm ering liquid on the stove top. Use an imm ers ion blender to blend in each spoonful of cheese until the cheese has melted and becomes co mpl ete ly smooth. Set the cheese sauce aside whi le yo u coo k the macaroni,

bring to a simm er.

or refri ge rate it until yo u are ready to reheat it.

TROUBLESHOOTING TIP: If You See Thi s, Stop If th e fat and liquid start to se p arate (in other words, th e em ul sion breaks), bring the mi xt ure to a f ull boil, and then co nt inu e processing with t he imm ers io n bl end er. Th e mi xture sho uld pull together. If this fails, add a spoonful of heavy cream, and try agai n.

Bring a large pot of water to a boil.

as instructed by t he package directions,

Boil the macaroni until it is al dente,

orfor 5-6 minutes.

Drain the pasta. Do not rin se it.

Stir the warm cheese sauce into the pasta. Fold in any flavor acco mpan im ents (see the variations on the previous page for ideas).

Season the mac and cheese with sa lt to taste. Serve it imm ediate ly.

BAKED MAC AND CHEESE YIELD: TIME EST IMATE: STORAGE NOTES : LEVEL OF DIFF ICULTY: SPEC IAL REQUIREMENTS:

five servings (900 g/ 5 cups) 45 minutes overall, including 30 minutes ofpreparation and 15 minutes unattended keeps for 3 days when refrigerated before baking moderate sodium citrate, Cheese Crumble (see page 316)

The key to excellent baked m ac and cheese is to parcook ( partially cook) the macaroni just long enough to ensure that it becomes tender rather than mushy during baking. The threshold between ING REDI ENT

WE IG HT

Water

as needed for cook ing the pasta

VO LUME

SCALING

undercooking and overcooking is incredibly fine. You can substitute any of the cheese combinations from the variations on page 310 for the cheese mixture here. PROCEDURE

<D Place a meta l baking sheet in th e freezer for at least 30 minutes.

Preheat the oven to 260 •c; 500 "F.

Q) Bring a large pot of water to a boil.

Dry macaroni

Water or milk Sodi um citrate

200g

185g

1V2 cups

44%

185 mL/Y.. cup

13g

41 %

@ Parcoo k for 2)/:z minutes.

® ®

Drain . Do not rinse the pasta. Spread the macaroni imm ed iate ly into a singl e layer on th e co ld baking sheet. Coo l for 5 min utes, uncovered, and th e n measure 450 g/ 3V' cups for use in step 11 .

Comb ine in a pot, whisk until dissolved, and then bring to a simmer over med ium heat.

Gradually add to the simmering liquid, using an imm ersion bl ende r to blend each add ition until it has melted an d is co mpletely smooth. Cool slightly; the cheese sho uld rema in fluid . Measure 450 g/ 2 cups of the cheese mixture for use in the next step.

Gruyere cheese, grated Cream cheese Sharp cheddar cheese, grated

200g 85g 65g

3 VJ cups VJ cup Y, cup

44% 19% 14%

Cheese mixture, from above

450g

2 cups

100%

@ Combine.

Dry mustard powde r Cayenne pepper (optiona l)

0.5g to taste

pinch

0.1 %

Parcooked macaroni, from above Salt

450g

3)/:z cups

100%

@ Fold the reserved macaroni into the warm cheese mixtu re, and seaso n it to taste. @ Divid e the mixture even ly into fi ve rameki ns, o r po ur it into one large baking dish.

Cheese Crumble

100 g

1V2 cups

22%

@ Sprink le ge nero usly over the mac and cheese. @ Bake until gold en brown and bubbly, 13-15 minutes. Serve hot.

to taste

see page316

TO MAKE AHEAD After coo ling the maca ron i in step 6, toss it in e nough ne utral-tasting oil to lightly coat th e pasta, and refrigerate it until ready to use. The cheese sa uce will keep for 1 week when refrigerated and for up to 2 month s when froze n. The mac and cheese can be pre pared through step 11, and th e n refrigerated for up to 3 days . Kee p in mind that th e pasta wil l continue to absorb moi sture, so it will softe n over tim e. Do not top with the cheese crumb le until just before baking. Baking the mac and cheese from th e refri gerato r wi ll require an additional 10-12 minutes.

Place a metal baking sheet in the freeze r to chill for at least 30 minutes.

Preheat the oven to 260 "C/ 500 "F.

Bring a large pot of wate r to a boi l.

Parboil the macaron i for 2)/:z minutes. Although the su rface of the pasta wi ll be cooked, the interior wi ll sti ll be raw and crun chy. The macaroni will finish cooking in the oven.

5 312

MO DERNI ST CU I SI NE AT HOME

Drain the cooked pasta, but do not rinse it. Proceed immediately to the next ste p.

Spread t he pasta into a single layer on the chi ll ed baking sheet, and al low it to coo l,

Whisk the sodium citrate into the water or milk in a pot until it has dissolved, and

uncovered, for 5 minutes. This technique

then bring the liquid to a simm er over

efficiently cools the macaroni, but doesn't

medium heat.

rinse any of the starch from its surface. When it has coo led, measure 450 g/

Add the cheeses into th e liquid, one spoonful at a time, while the mixture simmers on the stove. Use an immersion blender to blend each spoonful until it has melted and becomes co mpl ete ly smooth.

3Yz cups of

the pasta for use in step 11 .

Coo l the cheese slig htly- it should remain fluid - and then measure 450 g / 2 cups for

Comb in e the spices w ith the measured cheese m1xture.

Sprinkle the cheese crumble generously over the top of each serving.

with sa lt to taste.

use in the next step.

Fold the measured macaroni into the warm cheese mixture, and season it

Divide the mac and cheese even ly into

Bake until the cheese turns golden brown and bubbly, 13-15 minutes. Place the dish

five ramekins, or pour it into one large

in a baking pan to catch any bubbling

baking dish.

sauce and prevent burning. Serve hot.

"FAT-FREE" MAC AND CHEESE five servings (750 g/ 4 cups) 13,4 hours overall, including 30 minutes ofpreparation and 1~ hours unattended serve immediately; cheese water keeps for 5 days when refrigerated or for up to 6 months when frozen moderate sous vide setup

YIELD: TIME ESTIMATE: STORAGE NOTES: LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY: SPECIAL REQUIREMENTS:

We also add pureed cauliflower, which mimics the rich mouth-

The flavor compounds in cheese, much like those,in tea leaves and coffee beans, dissolve in water. We take advantag~ of that fact by

feel and color of cheese sauce but doesn't weigh it down. It is easy to

cooking pasta in cheese water, a technique that transfers flavor to the macaroni and allows us to make a delicate, refined dish that

to make extra to keep on hand. It freezes well and makes a wonderful

contains little fat yet retains much of the robust flavor of traditional

soup base. You can also use it as a broth for glazed spring vegetables

mac and cheese.

or braised winter greens.

make cheese water, and once you've tasted it, you will probably want

INGREDIENT

WEIGHT

VOLUME

SCALING

PROCEDURE

Water Caul ifl ower, thinly sli ced

150g 100 g

150 mL/o/s cup 1Y2 cups

30% 20%

0 Co mbin e the cau lifl ower and water in a pot, and simmer until very tender, about 30 minutes. Dra in. Puree until smooth. @ Sieve, and measure 75 g/ '14 cup of the ca uliflower puree for use in step 12.

0 ®

Water 500g jack cheese, finely grated 275g Gruyere cheese, finely 275g grated

500 mL / 2Ys cups 4cups 4 cups

100% 55% 55%

® ® 0

® ®

Preheat a water bath to 80 •c / 176 • F. Comb in e together in a large (4 L/ 1 gaO zip -top bag, remove as much air as possible from the bag (see page 58), and sea l it. Cook so us vide for 30 minutes. Coo l for15 minutes at room temperature. Strain through a fin e sieve lined with cheesecloth to co llect the liquid. Measure 500 g/ 500 mL/ 2Ys cups of the cheese water for use in the next step. (See note on the next page on uses for cheese so lids.)

Sugar

Y, tsp

0.4%

@ Combine with the cheese water in a medium pot, st ir to dissolve, and

Dry macaroni

180g

1'14 cups

36%

@ Stir into the boiling cheese water, and reduce the heat to medium. @ Cook until most of the cheese water has been absorbed and the macaroni is just al dente, about 7 minutes. Fold the reserved ca uliflower puree into the mac and cheese.

Salt

to taste

bring to a boil over high heat.

@ Season the mac and cheese, a nd serve it wa rm.

VARIATIONS

Mac and Fontina

Mac and Parmesan

Mac and Cheddar

Cheese: 550 g / 6 cups of young Fontin a, fine ly grated Fold in: Pressure-Carame li zed On ions (see page 127) or 75 g of Mushroom Puree (see page 150)

Cheese: 550 g/ 9 cups of Parmesan, fine ly grated Fold in: Creamed Spinach (see page 199) or thinly sliced sun-d ried tomatoes

Cheese: 550 g/ 8 cups of sharp cheddar, finely grated Fold in: broccoli puree or cubes of roasted app les

Combine the cau liflower and water in a pot, and simme r until the cauliflowe r becomes very tender, abo ut 30 minutes.

2 3

Drain the cau liflower. Blend the ca uliflowe r into a smooth puree.

Pass the puree through a sieve, and measure 75 g / Y., cup of it for use in step 12.

Preheat a water bath to 80 "C/ 176 "F.

Remove the bag from the bath, and let it cool for15 minutes at room temperature.

Stir the dry maca roni into the cheese water, and reduce the heat to medium.

Cook th e pasta until it has absorbed most of the cheese water and is just al dente, about 7 minutes. Fold the reserved cau liflower puree into the mac and cheese.

Combi ne the cheeses and the water in a large (4 L/ 1 gal) zip-top bag. Use the waterdisplacement method (see page 58) to remove as mu ch air as possible fro m the bag, and sea l it.

Place a fin e sieve lined with cheesecloth over a bowl, and strain the cheese-water mixture, collecting the cheese wate r in the bowl. Reserve 500 g / 500 ml / 2Va cups of the cheese water for use in the next step. Sto re the remaining cheese wate r in the refrigerator o r freezer for anothe r use, and see the note below for suggested ways to use the rema ining cheese so lids.

Cook the cheeses so us vide for 30 minutes. The e nd result sho uld look a bit li ke curdled milk.

Co mbin e the reserved cheese wate r and the sugar in a med ium pot. Stir until the sugar d isso lves, a nd th e n bring the mixture to a boil ove r hig h heat. A lot of the natural sweetness of the cheese was left behind in the cheese so li ds, so the pinch of sugar he lps to round out the fl avo r.

WHILE YOU ' RE AT IT: Cheese Crisps The cheese solids left over after stra ining the cheese water in step 9 have lost some of their flavor, but they are very tasty w hen dried. Spread them on a baking sheet, and bake them at 175 "C/ 350 "F until they turn go ld e n, about 45 minutes. Then break them up, a nd use them as a garnis h for baked potatoes or gree n sa lads, as part of a savory cracke r, or as a substitute for the cheese crumbs in ste p 9 of o ur recip e for Cheese Crumb le (see next page).

Season the mac and cheese with sa lt to taste, and serve it warm .

MAC AND CH EE SE

315

CHEESE CRUMBLE YIELD: TIME EST IMATE: STORAGE NOTES : LEVEL OF DIFF ICULTY: SPEC IAL REQUIREMENTS: USED IN :

250 g/20 cups 1~ hours overall, including 25 minutes ofpreparation and 50 minutes unattended keeps for 2-3 days when refrigerated moderate food processor (optional), sodium citrate, tapioca starch Baked Mac and Cheese (see page 312)

INGREDIENT

WE IGHT

VOLUME

SCALING

PROCEDURE

Water

60g

60mL/Y.. cup

30%

Sodium citrate

2.5g

Gruyere cheese, finely grated

200g

3 cups

100%

CD 0 ®

Tapioca starch

lOOg

:Va cup

50%

@) Add, one-third at a time. Stir well between additions to keep the mixture

1.25%

Preheat the oven to 175 "C/ 350 "F. Combine in a pot, whisk until dissolved, and bring to a si mmer. Add gradua lly to the simmeri ng liquid. Use an immersion blender to blend each addition until it is melted and comp lete ly smooth. smooth and moist throughout. The mixture turns thick very quickly and resembles a dough when it is finished.

Gruyere cheese, finely grated

40g

Panko bread crumbs

20g

o/a cup

20%

While the cheese mixture is still warm, scoop it onto a silico ne mat, and use a rolling pin to roll it into a thin, even sheet.

Place the mat on a baking sheet, and bake until the cheese cracker is completely dry and go lden brown, 45- 50 minutes.

0 ®

Cool the cheese cracker, and break it into pieces.

Grind the cheese cracker in a food processor to make fine crumbs. Alternatively, place pieces in a zip-top bag, and crush them with a roll ing pin or mallet. Combine w ith the ground or crushed cheese crumbs.

@ Store refrigerated . 2Tbsp

10%

Top any au gratin dish with t his cheese crum ble: it goes we ll on sca ll oped potatoes, gree n bea n cassero le, and Appl e Betty. Yo u ca n substi tute oth er fi rm or hard cheeses, such as cheddar o r Parm esa n, fo r the Gru yere. TO MAKE AHEAD For extended storage, keep the ground cheese crumb les from step 8 in an airtight container. Mix them w ith the grated Gruyere and panko bread crumbs just before you use them.

3 16

MO DER NIS T CUIS INE AT HO M E

1 W HIL E YOU ' RE AT IT

PERFECTLY MELTING CHEESE SLICE YIELD: TIME ESTIMATE: STORAGE NOTES: LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY: SPECIAL REQUIREMENTS: USED IN :

500 g/ 12-14 slices 214 hours overall, including 15 minutes ofpreparation and 2 hours unattended keeps for 10 days when refrigerated or up to 2 months when frozen moderate sodium citrate Modernist Cheeseburger (see page 212), Grilled Cheese Sandwiches (see the next page)

cheese into slices that melt as perfectly as American-style sandwich

cheese sandwiches, vegetables, apple pie, or any other dish needing a melted cheese that doesn't separate. You can either form the cheese

cheese does. These slices are perfect for cheeseburgers, grilled

into a thin sheet, or mold it into a cylinder or block for slicing later.

By using sodium citrate, an emulsifying salt, you can make any

INGREDIENT

WEIGHT

VOLUME

Cold wheat beer (or water)

115 g

115 mL /

Sodium citrate

14g

y, cup

SCALING

PROCEDURE

57.5%

see page 71

Gruyere cheese, grated Sharp cheddar cheese, grated

Preheat the oven to its lowest temperature .

0 Line a baking sheet with a silicone mat, or lightly oil the sheet, and place

® 200 g 180 g

3 cups 3 cups

100% 90%

it in the oven to warm while you prepare the cheese. Comb in e in a pot, stir until dissolved, and then bring to a simmer over medium heat.

@) Add gradually to the simmering liquid. Use an imm e rsion blender to blend in each addition until it has melted and is comp letely smooth. ® Pour the liquid cheese mixture onto the warm baking sheet. Tip the sheet as needed to form an even layer. Alternatively, pour the cheese into a mold coated with cooking spray. ® Cover with plastic wrap, and refrigerate until fully set, at least 2 hours. 0 Cut into rounds or squares 7.5 cm / 3 in across. Place plastic wrap or parchment paper between the slices to prevent them from sticki ng together, and store refrigerated or frozen .

We develo ped this cheese sli ce techniq ue fo r th e Mushroom Sw iss Bu rger recipe in Modernist Cuisine. In that versio n, we added a lot of additio nal liqui d (bee r!). We wa nted the cheese to fl ow well, so we also added carrageenan, a thickener extracted fro m seaweed, to adjust the viscosity of th e co ld cheese. Since the n, howeve r, we have d iscove red that the ca rrageena n isn't necessa ry if yo u add less liquid, as we do here. The sodium citrate, o n th e othe r ha nd, is indispe nsa bl e fo r preve nting the cheese fro m separati ng when it melts. SPECIAL SCALING FOR THE SODIUM CITRATE If you a re sca ling the yield of this recipe up or down, you can ca lculate how much sodium citrate to use by weighing the liquid and th e grated cheeses together, and multiplying by 2.8% of the total weight. For examp le, when making 750 g of cheese slices, use 21 g of sodium citrate.

MAC AND CHEESE

317

RISOTTO AND PAELLA The time and attention necessary to make a good traditional paella or risotto can sometimes seem prohibitive. These are certainly not dishes that home cooks whip up any night for dinner. But what if we told you that you can cook paella or risotto from scratch in seven minutes flat? Or that you can parcook either one of these dishes up to three days in advance, and then finish the dish in four minutes? If you have a pressure cooker, there's no reason not to enjoy these wonderful one-pot meals more often. Both risotto and paella get their body from short-grain rice, which releases starch during cooking to produce a thick and creamy texture. And both can be made using a variety of grains and flavors, from the classic Milanese version of risotto with white wine and saffron to more exotic concoctions, such as sea urchin, cocoa, and grapefruit. Our favorite grain and flavor combinations appear on pages 330-333. Risotto and paella grains are best cooked until just a! dente, not completely soft. Traditionally, you add liquid a little at a time, and then you stir constantly to create the starch slurry and keep it evenly dispersed. We discovered, however, that it works just as well to use a pressure cooker and to add all the water at once; the pressure cooker eliminates the need to stir. The biggest disadvantage of the pressure cooker is that you can't just lift the lid and taste for doneness. So we aim to undercook the rice slightly, and then we put it on the stove top for a couple of minutes to perfect the texture.

Bomba Rice with Chorizo and Broccoli-Gruyere Puree, see variation on page 333

3 20

THE SCIENCE OF WHY COOKS STIR RISOTTO Starch, released by short-grain rice during cooking, is what thickens dishes like paella and risotto. Natural starches are composed of two types of polymers, amylose (which is better at gelling) and amylopectin (which thickens by binding up water). Plants contain differing ratios of each, which is why short-grain rice works for these dishes, but longgrain rice doesn't. Inside a plant cell, starch is typically stored inside granules, which have a layered structure like an onion. During cooking, the starch granules absorb water, swell, and become sticky. But the rice doesn't thicken until the cells burst open and release the sticky granules. That is why we stir the rice as it cooks: to break open the cells and release the starch into the cooking liquid, thereby thickening it. Continued gentle stirring then prevents lumps from forming. To see the gelling power of starch in action, allow a risotto to cool-it gels into a solid mass. There is no need to stir rice when you cook it in a pressure cooker because the process forces so much water into the starch granules and plant cells that many more of the cells burst on their own.

20 HIGHLIGHTS

Parcooking 1 a trick we lea rned from The

These recipes work with several kinds

The original paella from Valencia

French Laundry chef Thomas Keller, is

of short-grain rice: ca rnaroli, Arborio,

was a humble rice stew cooked with

and Broccoli-G ruyee Puree or our

a great time·saver. Use a freezing-cold

or Via lone Nano for risotto; bomba and

rabbits and snails harvested from the

Forbidden Rice with Squid Ink and Sous Vide Clams.

baking sheet to cool the rice quickly

Calaspa rra for paella; and other grains,

field. Ours is ga rnished with snails,

without washing away the starch .

as well.

but less exotic toppings are good, too.

see page 328

see pages 324-325

see page 326

FUR THER READING I

Try our Bomba Rice with Chorizo

see pages 333 and 330

MODERN IST CUISI NE

The science of starches: see pages 3280-282, 4·20-22 Recipes for So us Vide Clam and Oat Risotto, Root Vegetable Risotto: see pages 3·308-309 How thickening works: see pages 4·12-13 A plated-dish recipe for Paella Valenciana: see pages 5·239- 245

321

COOKING GRAINS Great risotto and paella is traditionally a time- and laborintensive process that requires a chef's undivided attention. Modern methods make these wonderful dishes much more practical for the home cook. Ourfavorite method is to pressure-cook the rice from startto finish, which can take as little as seven minutes. If you want to prepare your grain dish in advance, parcooking followed by a quick chilling and resting step works great,

as it allows you to finish the risotto for dinner in just a few minutes. We recommend this technique particularly if you are making larger quantities. Both techniques require less than a half hour of hands-on cooking time. Below are all of the options for preparation, cooking, and finishing risotto and paella that we recommend for a variety of grains. Go with what fits the results you want and the time and equipment you have available.

HOW TO Pressure-Cook Risotto and Paella - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

Saute the aromatic ingredients in oi l or butter. Risotto and paella rices are typically cooked in a base of sauteed aromatics. In the case of risotto, classic partners are minced on ion, fennel, and ce le ry; for paella, the usual aromatic base is sofrito, a comb in ation of minced bell pepper, seeded tomato, and onion.

Add the rice to the saute ing aromatics, and toast it over medium-high heat for 1-2 minutes . The gra ins shou ld become shiny, go lden, and slightly translucent.

Add a cooking liquid- typically stock for paella and a combination of wine and stock for risotto. You can instead cook the rice in wate r, or get ereative and try combinations of vegetab le juices, fruit juices, and wine or other kinds of alcohol. Whol e grains requ ire more liquid than hulled and polished grains do.

Pressure-cook the rice in liquid at a gauge pressure of1 bar / 15 psi until it is just al dente; see the table below for cooking times. Begin timing as soon as the cooker reaches full pressure.

Depressurize the cooker quickly by running tepid water over the rim.

Cooking Times If you don't have a pressure cooker, yo u can cook the risotto, paella, or other grain stew the traditional way. Use the times in the table below and the flavor id eas on pages 330-333 as guidelines . Batches that a re larger than those in our recipes will take longer to cook. Cook on the Pressure-cook stove top

Check the rice for doneness. It shou ld be nearly cooked to a perfect a l dente. You may need to add more liquid, as directed in the recipes, or to simmer it for1-3 minutes more.

32 4

Season the rice with salt. Finish risotto dishes with butter and freshly grated cheese, or fold in cooked vegetables, vegetable purees, or fresh herbs. For paellas, chefs usua lly focus on the broth and garnishes. Intraditional Valencia-style paella, for example, rabbit and snai ls are added. Modern versions often emphasize various kinds of fresh she llfish.

(m in)

(min)

bomba rice

forbidden rice

risotto rices (Arborio, Vialone Nano, carnaroli)

18-20

short-grain Japanese rice

13-15

farro

22-25

pearl barley

28-30

quinoa

15-18

steel-cut oats, rinsed

12-15

Safety tipsfor pressure-cooking: see page 33

20 HOW TO Parcook and Finish Risotto and Paella - - - - - - - -- - - -- - - - - - - - -

While sauteing the aromatic ingred ients as described in

Add the rice, and toast it with the sauteed aromatics until it

step 1 on the previous page,

turns shiny, go ld en, and nearly

freeze a metal baking sheet

translucent.

(or several, if yo u are making

Add li quid, and parcook for the time indicated in the table below, stir-

just before se rving, fin ish

a large batch) for use in step 5.

Working quickly, strain the liquid from the parcooked

Transfer the drained rice to the frozen baking sheet, and

ring frequently. Altern ativel y, parcook in a pressure cooker at a gauge pressure of1 bar / 15 psi, for the tim e indica ted in th e tab le, and then qu ick ly dep ress uri ze the cooker by running tepid water over the rim .

cooki ng the grain by stirring

Fold in any add iti onal flavorings, seaso n, and serve. The

grai n, and reserve it for use

sp read it into a thin layer to

in the reserved liquid and

additions ca n be as simp le

in step 6.

cool. Cover, and refrigerate

si mmering it in a pot until it

as a bit of grated cheese

the rice until you are ready

becomes al dente. You may

and butter or as co mplex

to serve it.

need to add a littl e more

as vegetable purees and

liquid .

braised meats.

Parcooking Times You ca n parcook rice and grains, and th en refrigerate them for up to 3 days before finishing and serving. Use th e times in the tab le below for parcooking in a pressure cooker or on the stove stop. When you are ready to finish the dish, simm er it as described in step 6 above for 2-5 minutes as a rul e of thumb. In a pressure cooker

On t h e stove top

(min)

bomba rice

forbidden rice

risotto rices (Arborio, Vialone Nano, carnaro li)

short-grain japanese rice

2 Y,

farro

20-22

pearl barley

quinoa

stee l-cut oats, rin sed

Safety tipsfor pressure-cooking: see page 33

PRESSURE-COOKED PAELLA DEL BOSCO YIELD: TIME ESTIMATE: STORAGE NOTES: LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY: SPECIAL REQUIREMENTS:

four servings (400 g/ 2 cups, excluding snails) 25 minutes overall serve immediately; cooked rice keeps for up to 3 days when refrigerated easy pressure cooker, bomba rice, piment6n dulce, piquillo peppers, Brown Chicken Stock (see variation on page 85), Sous Vide Braised Snails (optional, see page 293)

Paella has gained a reputation as a dish for special occasions because it is so time-consuming to make. But it doesn't have to be: with little

Cooked chicken, shrimp, crabmeat, or duck breast can all be folded into the rice instead of, or along with, the snails. For an elegant

more than 25 minutes of total labor, you can use this recipe to make

touch, finely shave some fresh porcini mushrooms, when they are

incredibly flavorful and creamy Valencia-style paella. We chose to

in season, over the finished dish.

add snails because they are historically an original garnish for paella. INGREDIENT

WEIGHT

VOLUME

SCALING

PROCEDURE

Olive oil Piquillo peppers (store-bought), minced Fennel, minced Sweet onion, minced Carrot, minced Garlic, minced

40g 50g

45 mL/ 3Tbsp YJ cup

27% 33%

25g 25 g 20g 7.5g

Y. cup 3 Tbsp 2Tbsp 1 Tbsp

17% 17% 13% 5%

Bomba rice (or other short-grain paella rice)

150 g

:Y. cup

100%

0 Stir into the vegetable mixture, and cook until the ri ce turns shiny and

Brown Chicken Stock

300g

300 mL / 1Y.. cups

200%

70g

70 mL/ YJ cup

47%

translucent, about 2 minutes.

see variation on page 85

Dry sherry

Sweat the vegetables in oil in the base of a pressure cooker over medium heat until tender and translucent, about 3 minutes.

® ® Pi menton dulce (smoked, 7g sweet paprika) 2g Thyme leaves Saffron threads (optional) Salt

to taste

So us Vide Braised Snails (optional), cut in half and warmed

200g

1 Tbsp

1 Tbsp 5 threads

24 snails

133%

Stir into the rice mixture. Pressure-cook at a gauge pressure of1 bar / 15 psi for 7 minutes. Start timing when full pressure is reached. Depressurize the cooker. Check the rice for tenderness. It should be al dente. If necessary, simmer uncovered for a minute or two longer.

Stir into the rice, and let rest for 1 minute.

® ®

Season. Fold into the paella, and serve it immediately.

see page293

Lemon zest, finely grated

to taste Safety tipsfor pressure-cooking: see page 33

TO MAKE AHEAD Freeze a baking sheet for at least 30 minutes. Follow steps 1-5, but pressure-cook for just 4 minutes in step 4. Drain the rice, reserving the broth. Quickly coo l the rice mi xture by spreading it in a thin laye r on the frozen baking sheet. Refrigerate the rice and cooking liquid in separate conta in e rs for up to 3 days. To finish, combine the rice mixtu re and broth in a pot, and simmer until al dente, abo ut 4 minutes. Th e n continue with step 7.

32 6

MO DERN I ST CUI SINE AT HOME

Sweat the vegetables in olive oil in the base of a pressure cooker over medium heat until they become tender and trans lucent but not

Stir the rice into the vegetable mixture, and cook until the rice turns shiny and slightly

Stir the chicken stock and sherry into the rice mixture.

trans lucent, about 2 m inutes.

brown, about3 minutes.

Pressure-cook the mixture at a gauge pressure ofl bar / 15 ps i for 7 minutes. Start timing as soon as full pressure has been reached . Larger amounts of rice will need more time.

to depressuri ze it quick ly.

Check t he rice for doneness. The gra ins shou ld be al dente: firm to the bite but not

Run tepid water over the rim of the cooker

hard or crunchy. If the rice is not quite done, simmer it forl - 2 minutes more, uncovered. Stir it constantly.

Stir the piment6n, thyme, and saffron into the rice. Let the paella rest forl minute so that the flavors infuse and the starch slightly coo ls and th ickens.

Season the pae lla with sa lt to taste.

Fo ld the snails and lemon zest into the paella. Garnish w ith add itiona l snai ls, and serve it immediate ly.

RISOTTO AND PAELLA

32 7

VEGETABLE RISOTTO YIELD: TIME ESTIMATE: STORAGE NOTES: LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY: SPECIAL REQUIREMENTS:

four servings (500 g/ 2 cups) 40 minutes overall, including 30 minutes unattended serve immediatelyj parcooked rice and cooking liquid keep for up to 3 days when refrigerated easy juicer

For traditional risotto, chefs insist that the rice requires constant

starches. Finishing, which can be done days later, then takes just

stirring and fussing until the very last minute. We agree that good risotto should be al dente and is best served immediately, but we prefer a quicker method that requires much less of the cook's atten-

a few minutes before serving. The results are just as good as the old-fashioned method. Good

tion: parcook the grains, and then chill them on a frozen baking

stock, fresh vegetable juices, and aged Gouda cheese give this version a bold vegetable flavor. Risotto is a wonderful base for a variety of

sheet, which stops the cooking without rinsing away the valuable

flavors; see pages 330-333 for suggestions.

INGREDIENT

WEIGHT

VOLUME

SCALING

PROCEDURE

Sha llots, minced Neutral frying o il

40g 20g

6Tbsp 20 mL / 1Y2 Tbsp

20% 10%

<D 0

Place a baking sheet in the freezer for at least 30 minutes. Sweat the shallots in oi l in a medium pot until tender and translucent, about 2 minutes .

1 cup

100%

Stir into the shallot mixture, a nd cook until shiny and slightly toasted, about 2 minutes .

180 mL / :Y.. cup

90%

55%

® ®

Stir into the rice mixture, and simmer for 6 minutes to parcook the rice. Drain, reserving the cooking liquid. Spread the rice in a single layer on the frozen baking sheet to cool. When you are ready to comp lete th e risotto, combine the cooled ri ce a nd cook ing liquid in a pot, and simmer the mixture over medium-high heat, stirring constantly, unti l the liquid has thickened and the rice is a l dente, 3- 5 minutes.

Stir in to the warm risotto.

Season the risotto, and serve it immediate ly.

see page xxi i

Carnaro li rice (or other 200g short-grain rice for risotto, such as Arborio or Via lone Nano) Vegetable stock

180g

see page 89

Fres h carrot juice

110g

Fresh cele ry juice (or add iti ona l stock) Dry vermouth or white wine

110 g 50g

110 mL/ h cup from 2- 3 carrots 110 mL / Y2 cup from 3-4 sta lks 50 mL / 3h Tbsp

Aged Go uda cheese, fine ly grated Unsalted butter, cubed

lOOg

lY1 cups

50%

12 g

1 Tbsp

Salt

to taste

328

55% 25%

MODERNIST CUISINE AT HOME

Place a baking sheet in the freezer, and allow it to chil l for at least 30 minutes.

Place the shal lots and oil together in a medium pot, and sweat until the shallots are tender and translucent but not brown, about 2 minutes.

Stir t he rice into the sha ll ot mixture, and cook until the rice turns shiny and slightly

Stir the vegetable stock, vegetab le jui ces, and vermouth or wine into the ri ce mixture, and simmer it for 6 minutes . This parcooks th e gra ins, but they sho uld remain firm on the inside.

toasted, about 2 minutes.

Drain the rice, reserving the cook ing liquid.

When you are ready to finish the cooking, combine t he coo led rice and cook ing

Quickly spread the rice in a single layer on the froze n baking sheet to stop the cook ing. You ca n speed the ch illi ng process by putting the baking sheet back in the freezer for 5 minutes.

Stir the grated cheese and butter into the

VARIATION: Pressure-Cooked Risotto

warm risotto.

Season the ri sotto with sa lt to taste, and

To make ri sotto even faster than this recipe does, cook it in a press ure cooker. Follow steps 1-6 in the reci pe for Pressure-Cooked Paella del Bosco (see page 326), but use the ingredients and quantiti es given for the Vegetabl e Risotto recipe. Then co ntinue at step 8.

liquid, and simmer over medium-high heat, stirring constantly, until the liquid has thickened and the rice is al dente, 3-5 minutes.

serve it immed iate ly.

Add liquid as needed.

RISO TT O AND PAELLA

329

RISOTTO AND PAELLA VARIATIONS Each of the variations below includes complete cooking instructions, but follows the general method for making Pressure-Cooked Paella del Bosco on page 326. In each case, use a gauge pressure of 1 bar I 15 psi, start timing as soon as fu ll pressure has been reached, and depressurize the cooker quickly by running tepid water over the rim before opening it; see the safety tips for pressure-cooking on page 324. If the rice or grain is not quite done after pressure-

cooking, simmer it for 1-2 minutes more. To make a dish having a drier consistency, simmer the mixture after pressure-cooking; for a soupy, creamier dish, add more liquid. If parcooking the grain, as described in the recipe on page 328, you may need to increase the quantity ofliquid by up to 25% to allow for increased evaporation. You can substitute finely minced sweet onions for the shallots in these recipes, and use additional butter or olive oil to add richness.

Fo rb idde n Rice wit h Sq ui d Shallots, minced Neutral frying oil Forb idden rice Pressure-Cooked Crustacean Stock

In k a nd So us Vide Clams \4 cup 30 g 20 ml / 1Y, Tbsp 20 g 150g ¥o cup 150 ml /o/a cup 150g

see page 88

Fi no sherry 75g 7.6g Squ id ink Clam meat, cooked so us vide*

75 ml / 5 Tbsp 1Y2 tsp 12 clams

see page 286

Extra-virgin olive oil Sa lt Meyer lemon zest, grated

50 g to taste as needed

55 ml/\4 cup

Saute the shallots in oil over medium heat in the base of a pressure cooker until translucent, about 3 minutes. Add the rice, and cook over med ium heat for 1 minute more. Stir in the crustacean stock, sherry, and squ id ink, and pressure-cook for12 minutes. Wh il e the rice is cooking, remove the bel lies from the cl ams, and chop the remaining pieces. Fold the chopped clams and o live o il into the cooked rice. Season with salt, and garnish with the clam be llies and grated lemo n zest. *Safety tipsfor lightly cookedfood: see page xxv

Arbo ri o Ri ce w it h Ca ra me li zed Sq uas h a nd Saffron 2 Tbsp 20 g Shall ots, minced 20 mL/ lY2 Tbsp 20 g Ne utra l fry in g o il ¥o cup Arborio or simil ar short-grai n 150g ri sotto rice 200 ml/?'a cup Fresh ca rrot ju ice 200g 100 ml /% cup Chardonnay or other 100g fruity white win e 100g % cup Butternut squas h puree see variation on page 180

Saffron Grana Padano cheese, grated 90g to taste Sa lt as needed Marcona almo nds

4-5 threads 1¥o cups

Saute the sha ll ots in oil over med ium heat in the base of a pressure cooker until trans lucent, about 3 minutes. Stir in the rice, and cook for 1 minute more. Add the carrot juice and Chardonnay, and pressure-cook for 6 minutes. Stir in the squash puree, saffron threads, and cheese. Season with salt, and garnish with a fin e shaving of Microplaned almonds.

33 0

MODERNIST CUISINE AT HOME

20 Barley with Wild Mushrooms and Red Wine 1:Y,. cups 140 g

Wild mushrooms (ma ita ke, oyste r, shiita ke), minced Shallots, minced Unsalted butte r

40g

y, cup

35g

3 Tbsp

Neutral frying o il

20g

20 ml / 1Y' Tbsp

see page xxii

Pearl ba rl ey

150g

:Y,. cup

Mushroom Stock, enha nced with c rumbled dry porcinis

180 g

180 mL/ :Y,. c up

Re d wine (Syra h)

lOO g

Gruye re c heese, grated

100 mL /:Y. cup y, cup

Salt

65g to taste

Black pepper

to taste

see page 91

Saute the wild mushrooms a nd shallots in the butte r a nd o il over medium heat in the base of a p ress ure cooke r until trans lu cent, a bout 3 minutes. Stir in the barley, a nd cook fo r1 minute more. Add the mushroom stock a nd wine, an d pressure-cook for 20 minutes . Stir in th e grated c heese until melted. Season with sa lt a nd pe pp er. Garnish with additional c heese a nd sa utee d mu shroom s, if des ired .

Steel-Cut Oats with So us Vide Braised Snails Steel- cut oats

150g

Chic ken stock

230g

1's c up 23 0 ml / 1 c up

Pastis or ouzo

SOg

65 ml /\4 cup

Press ure -Cooked Garli c Con fit, sieved

60g

:Y. cup

see page 84

see page 126

Unsa lted butte r

SOg

\4 cup

Pa rmig iano-Reggiano So us Vide Braised Snails

40g

Y, cup

65g

about 8 snai ls

see page 293

Salt

to taste

Green a ppl e, diced Italia n parsley, mince d

25g

\4 cup 2Y2 Tbsp

Combine the oats with the c hi cke n stock a nd pastis or o uzo in a pressure cooker, and pressure-cook for 7 minutes. St ir in the garli c con fit, butter, and Parm igiano-Reggiano. Fold in the snai ls gent ly. Season with sa lt, and garnish wit h the app le and Ita lia n parsley. Garnish w ith additi ona l sna il s and grated c heese, if desired.

This recipe was inspired by Heston Blumenthal's famous Snails with Porridge dish.

RISO TT O AND PA ELLA

331

Farro with Chicken, Artichokes, and Black Olives 30g \4 cup Shallots, minced 30 mL / 2Tbsp 28g Neutral frying oil see page xxii

Farro Vegetable stock

150g 200g

~cup

200 mL/?'s cup

see page 89

Dry white wine So us Vide Chicken, diced

80g 120g

80 mL /VJ cup

lOOg

2-3 hearts

40g 18g to taste

45 mL / 3Tbsp 2Tbsp

~c up

see page 244

Microwave-cooked artichoke hearts, sliced see table on page 347

Olive oil Black olives, slivered Salt

Saute the sha llots in oil over medium heat in the base of a pressure cooker until translucent, about 3 minutes. Add the farro, and cook for 1 minute more. Stir in the vegetable stock and wine, and pressure-cook for15 minutes. Fold in the chicken, artichoke hearts, olive oil, and olives. Season with salt.

Quinoa with Pistachio Pesto and Asparagus )Is cup Quinoa, rinsed and drained 150g 10 mL/ 2 tsp Neutral frying oil lOg see page xxii

Vegetable stock

275g

275 mL/ 1Vs cups

75g 70g 200g

75 mL / 5Tbsp 1 cup

20g to taste

2Tbsp

40g

~c up

see page 89

Dry vermouth Asparagus, very thinly sliced Pistachio Pesto

~ cup

see page 102

Unsalted butter, cubed Salt Ricotta sa lata, finely grated

Saute the quinoa for1 minute in oil over medium heat in the base of a pressure cooke r. Add th e vegetable stock and vermouth, and pressure-cook for4 minutes. Stir in the sliced asparagus, pistachio pes to, and butter, and then season with salt. Garnish with grated ricotta sa lata a nd so me sauteed asparagus tips.

332

MODERNIST CUISINE AT HOME

20 Bomba Rice with Chorizo and Broccoli-Gruyere Puree Shallots, minced 50 g 6 Tbsp 45 ml / 3 Tbsp Neutral frying oil 40 g see page xxii

Spanish chorizo, casing removed

150 g

:Y, cup

Bomba or similar short-gra in 150 g paella rice

:Y, cup

Water Wheat beer Broccoli-Gruyere Puree

230 g

230 ml/ 1 cup

80 g 150g

80ml/'/Jcup :Y, cup

70g to taste as needed

80ml /'/J cup

see variation on page 181

Extra-virgin olive oil Salt Garlic, thinly sliced and fried until crisp

Saute the shallots in oil over medium heat in the bas e of a pressure cooker until tra nslucent, about 3 minutes. Add the chorizo and rice, and cook over medium heat for1 minute more. Stir in the wate r and bee r, and pressure-cook for 7 minutes. Stir in th e broccoli puree and extra-virgin olive oil. Season with salt, and ga rni sh with fri ed ga rli c, and a few bla nched broccoli florets .

Arborio Rice with Sea Urchin and Cocoa Y., cup Sh a llots, minced 35g 20 mL / 1'/2 Tbsp Neutral frying oil 20 g see page xx ii

Arborio or similar short-grain 150 g risotto ri ce So us Vide Fish Stock 200 g

:Y, cup

200 ml/ )"s cup

see page 87

Dry sake Freshly squ eezed grapefruit juice Sea urchin, pressed through

60 g 40 g

60 mL / Y., cup 40 m l / Y., cup

30 g

3 Tbsp

4g as needed as needed

1 Tbsp

a sieve*

Grap efruit zest, fin ely grated Cocoa powder Tarragon leaves

Saute th e shallots in o il over medium heat in th e base of a press ure cooke r until translu ce nt, a bo ut 3 minutes. Add th e ri ce, and coo k over medium heat fo r1 minute more. Add th e fi sh stock, sa ke, and grapefrui t juice, a nd press ure -cook for 6 minu tes. Stir in the sea urchin a nd gra pefruit zest. Season w ith sa lt, and ga rnish w ith tarrago n leaves, a du sting of cocoa powder, and sea urchin tongue . *Safety tipsfor lightly cookedfood: see page xxv

RI SOTTO AN D PAELLA

333

Corn, or maize, was domesticated in the New World, hut it has become one of the most important foods across the globe. One of its most common forms is cornmeal: corn that has been dried and then ground. Cornmeal comes in various degrees of coarseness. It's generally cooked in liquid until tender and then either eaten immediately or set and fried. Variations on cornmeal porridge are widely eaten as staple foods: it is known as polenta in Italy, and grits or mush in the American South. Firmer variations that use cornmeal as the base of a dough include johnnycakes and hush puppies. Tamales and tortillas are made throughout Latin America from nixtamalized maize (see "The Science ofNixtamalization" at right). Coarser grinds of cornmeal are hearty, having an intense corn flavor. But traditional methods of making them require stirring over a hot flame for up to an hour. Cornmeal now comes in a more practical "instant" version, but that is finely ground, precooked, and thus stripped of both flavor and nutrients. Pressure-cooking the co:r mneafi!l in canning jars, as we do here, offers the best of both approaches. It's a hands-off, fast way to cook any grind of cornmeal.

THE SCIENCE OF NIXTAMALIZATION In Mexico, coarse-ground corn flour called masa harina is used to make fresh corn tortillas and tamales. The corn is treated with limewater in a process called nixtamalization (for the Aztec word nixtamal, meaning cornmeal). The process makes it easier for humans to digest corn and to extract more of its nutrients, particularly the vitamin niacin. When corn became a staple of diets in Europe and the United States, nixtamalization was not used, and the germ of the corn was also often removed during milling. The result was an outbreak of a disfiguring skin disease called pellagra among poorer people whose diets were largely limited to foods made from corn. For many years, the epidemic was blamed on germs or toxins carried by corn. But eventually scientific studies in the United States discovered the true cause: niacin deficiency. Dietary improvements have now all but eliminated pellagra from developed regions. Nixtamalization gives masa harina a di!;tirlctiytiiJo'M~fd, flavor. You can substitute it in our grits

PRESSURE-COOKED POLENTA YIELD: TIME ESTIMATE: STORAGE NOTES: LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY: SPECIAL REQUIREMENTS: GOES WELL WITH:

Jour servings (450 g/2 cups) 20 minutes overall, including 8 minutes ofpreparation and 12 minutes unattended keeps for 3 days when refrigerated moderate pressure cooker, two 500 mL/ 16 oz canning jars, ricotta salata or Cotija cheese Strawberry Marinara (see page 114)

For generations, Italian cooks have adopted foreign ingredients and

polenta as we know it today. The traditional version can take more

made them their own. Amazingly enough, tomatoes were not orig-

than an hour to cook; a pressure cooker greatly reduces the time and

inally part ofltalian cuisine-nor were basil, eggplant, garlic, or

effort required. We cook the polenta in corn stock for an incredibly

pasta. Once corn was introduced to Italy in the 16th century, it was

intense corn taste. Most dry polenta is made from plain field corn,

grown widely in the Po Valley, and northeastern Italians developed

so a stock made from sweet corn adds depth to the flavor profile.

INGREDIENT

WEIGHT

Clarified, unsalte d butter 15g or neutral-tasting oil

VOLUME

SCALING

PROCEDURE

15 mL / 1 Tbsp

15%

Heat in a pan over low heat.

Add to the pan, and toast, stirring co nstantly, until golden brown, about 4 minutes.

see page 119

Dry polenta (ground cornmeal, not instant)

100g

o/a cup

100%

Toasted Corn Stock, vegetable stock, meat stock, or water

300g

300 mL / 1',4 cups

300%

0 Divide the toasted cornmea l even ly into two 500 mL / 16 oz canning jars. @) Stir half of the corn stock or water into each jar. Tighten the lid s fully, and then unscrew one-quarter turn. ® Place a metal rack or trivet on the base of a pressure cooker, add 2.5 cm / 1 in of water, and place the filled jars on the trivet. @ Pressure-cook at a gauge pressure of1 bar / 15 psi for12 minutes. Start timing when full pressure is reached . 0 Depressurize the cooker, and let the jars cool slightly before opening. ® Spoon the cooked polenta into a sma ll pot.

see page 90

Mascarpone or cream cheese Ricotta salata or Cotija cheese, finely grated

20g

4tsp

20%

15g

3Tbsp

15%

Basil, julienned Ricotta sa lata Salt

1g as needed to taste

31eaves

Stir into the cooked polenta, over low heat, until fully in corporated.

@ Season the polenta, and garnish it with basil and grated cheese. It goes

well with marinara sauce (see pages 112 and 114). Safety tipsf or pressure-cooking: see page 33

Heat the clarified butter or oil in a pan over low heat. Using clarified butter avoids any specks of browned butter in the finished polenta.

Add the cornmeal to the pan, and toast it, stirring constantly, until it turns golden brown, about 4 minutes. This adds a nice, nutty flavor to the polenta.

Divide the toasted cornmeal evenly into two 500 mL / 16 oz ca nning jars.

4 33 6

MOD ERN IST CUI S INE AT HOM E

Stir half(150 g/ 150 mL/o/a cup) of the corn stock or water into each jar. Tighten the lids fully, and then unscrew them one-quarter turn so that the jars don't explode.

Place a metal rack or trivet on the base of the pressure cooker, pour in water to a depth of2 .5 cm / 1 in, and then place the filled jars on the trivet.

Depressurize the cooker quickly by runn ing tepid water over the rim. Let the jars cool slightly before opening them. This he lps to avoid sp lattering.

Pressure-cook at a gauge pressure of1 bar I 15 psi for 12 minutes. Start timing as soon as full pressure has been reached.

Spoon the cooked polenta into a small pot.

Stir the mascarpone and the ricotta sa lata into the polenta over low heat until th e cheeses are fully incorporated. For special dinners, we ad d eve n more masca rpon e for a riche r mouthfeel.

Season the polenta, and garnish it with marinara sauce (see page 112), grated ricotta sa lata, and julienned basil. TO MAKE AHEAD After step 7, you can refrigerate the polenta until you are ready to use it . To reheat the po lenta, warm it in a saucepan over low heat, and stir in a few add itiona l tablespoons of water or cream.

VARIATION: Corn Juice Grits For an even more inte nse corn flavor, substitute corn juice for the corn stock. juice 1.5 kg / 10 cups offresh or frozen corn ke rn e ls, and a llow the juice to sit undisturb ed until the natural starch settles to the bottom, about 2 hours. Use the juice in the recipe; discard the starc h.

COR NMEAL

337

SHRIMP AND GRITS YIELD: TIME EST IMATE: STORAGE NOTES: LEVEL OF DIFF ICU LTY: SPEC IAL REQU IREMENTS:

Jour servings (950 g/ 4 cups) 50 minutes overall, including 30 minutes ofpreparation and 20 minutes unattended serve immediately easy so us vide setup, pressure cooker, two 500 mL/ 16 oz canning jars, Pressure-Cooked Crustacean Stock (see page 88), Redeye Gravy (see page 96)

You can make grits from course-ground cornmeal of nearly any variety: white, yellow, or blue. The kind of corn and size of the grind affect the cooking time and the amount of water needed, however. Avoid instant grits, which offer shorter cooking times but only at INGR ED IENT

WE IG HT

VO LUME

the cost of a much blander flavor. Instead, use a pressure cooker and enjoy the real dish, quickly and without constant stirring. For a slightly more traditional take, top a bowl of grits with prawns, either seared or poached sous vide (see the table on page 286).

SCA LI NG

PROCEDU RE

500 mL / 2 cups

400%

CD 0 ®

Corn grits (coarse-ground 125g corn mea l)

:Y., cup

100%

3 Tbsp

40%

Eggs Pressure-Cooked Cru stacean Stock (shrimp)

4 1arge 500g

see page 88

Unsa lted butter, cubed

50g

Sa lt

to taste

Red eye Gravy, wa rm

80g

Y2 cup

64%

Preheat a water bath to 65 •c / 149 •F. Cook the eggs in their shells so us vide for 45 minutes.

Stir well to combine, and then divide even ly between two 500 ml / 16 oz canning jars. Tighten the lids fu lly, and then unscrew one-quarter turn . @ Place a rack or trivet in the base of a pressure cooker, add 2.5 em / 1 in of water, and place the filled jars on the trivet. ® Pressure-cook at a gauge pressure of1 bar / 15 psi for20 minutes. Start timing when full pressure is reached. ® Depressurize the cooker quickly by running te pid water over the rim. Let the jar contents cool slightly before opening to avoid splattering. 0 Spoon the cooked grits into a small pot, and stirthem well.

® ® ®

Stir into the grits over low heat. Season the grits, and divide them even ly into serving bowls. Top each bowl with a pee led, soft-cooked egg.

@ Pour over the grits and eggs, and serve immediate ly.

see page96

Safety tipsJar pressure-cooking: see page 33

VARIATION : C h eese Grits Substitute milk, water, chicken stock, or vegetable stock for the crustacean stock. At step 8, stir in 100 g/ Y2 cup each of heavy cream and grated cheddar cheese when you add the butter. Top with sliced scallions and green chi li es instead of gravy.

Preheat a water bath to 65 •c / 149 •F.

Cook the eggs so us vide in their shells for 45 minutes . This yields poached eggs with a delicate, creamy texture. You can proceed with steps 3-9 wh ile the eggs cook.

Stir the crustacean stock and grits to combine them. Divide the mixture even ly between two 500 ml/ 16 oz canningjars. Tighten the lids fully, and then unscrew them one-qua rter turn; th is prevents them from exploding. Alternative ly, freeze the stock, and then vacuum seal it with the grits in a bag rated for the higher temperature of a pressure cooker (s hown below).

Place a metal rack or trivet in the base of a pressure cooker, add water to a depth of 2.5 em / 1 in, and then place th e filled j ars on the trivet.

Pressure-cook the grits at a gauge pressure of1 bar / 15 psi for 20 minutes. Start timing as soon as full pressure has been reached. The grits cook slightly faster, in about 15 minutes, whe n vacuum sealed in a bag rather than placed in canning jars.

Depressurize the cooke r qu ick ly by runn ing tepid water over the rim. A ll ow the j ar co ntents to cool slightly before openi ng them so that they don't sp latter.

10 11

Spoon the cooked grits in to a small pot, and stir them we ll.

Stir t he butter into the grits over low heat.

Season the grits with sa lt . Divide them evenly into four servi ng bowls .

Top each bowl of grits w ith a peeled, soft-cooked egg.

Pour warm gravy over the eggs and grits, and serve them immediately.

CORNMEAL

339

PRESSURE-COOKED FRESH-CORN TAMALES YIELD: TIME ESTIMATE: STORAGE NOTES: LEVEL OF DIFF ICULTY: SPEC IAL REQU IREMENTS: GOES WELL WITH:

six to 10 servings (1 .5 kg/ about 20 tamales) 30 hours overall, including 1 hour ofpreparation and 20 hours unattended keeps for 3 days when refrigerated or up to 6 months when frozen moderate stand mixer, food processor, pressure cooker, masa harina, dried corn husks Pressure-Cooked Carnitas (see page 218), Salsa Verde (see page 111)

Tamales, made of steamed corn batter, are the Latin American version of a set cornmeal mush popular in the American South or the set polenta popular in Italy. These tamales are intensely flavored of corn. They are a marvelous side d ish. If you prefer more of an entree, fi ll them with shredded meat such as carnitas (see page 218), sh ort ribs (see variation on page 221), or adobo (see page 224). Or WEIGHT

INGREDIENT

VOLUME

SCALING

flavor. Garnish with pickled chilies and Mexican salsa, either storebought or Salsa Verde (see page 111).

PRO CEDU RE

20 husks

Dried co rn hu sks

experiment with nontraditional fillings: vegetables or grated Cotija, ricotta, or white cheddar cheese. Instead oflard, substitute rendered pork, chicken, or bacon fat (see page 123) to add considerably more

Soak in warm water until the husks are pliab le, at least 30 minutes. Shake them dry.

Lard or unsa lted butter

225g

1 cup

50%

0 Whip in a stand mixer, scraping the sides often, until light and airy,

Masa harina (Maseca brand) Toasted Corn Stock or water, lukewarm

450g

30 cups

100%

300g

300 mL/ 1\4 cups

67%

525g

3\12 cups / 4 cobs

117%

So ur cream , cre me

22g 22g

25 mL / 2 Tbsp 1\f2Tbsp

4.9% 4.9%

fraiche, or cre ma Sugar Sa lt

15 g 14g

1 Tbsp 1 Tbsp

3.3% 3.1%

about 5 minutes. Gradua lly add to the mixer, alternat ing between the two ingred ients, until ful ly blended to make masa batter.

see page90

Fresh corn ke rn e ls, cut from the cob Unsa lted butter, me lted

@ Combine in a food processor, and blend to make corn puree. ® Fold the corn puree and masa batter together to make the tama le batter. ® Place a dol lop of tama le batter, about 70 g/ 5 Tbsp, in each corn husk, and wrap firm ly. 0 Arrange the tamales, seam-s id e down, on a metal rack or trivet in a pressure cooker, and then add 2.5 cm / 1 in of water.

Pressure-cook at a gauge pressure of1 bar / 15 psi for 20 minutes . Start timing when full pressure is reached. ® Depressurize the cooker. @ Allow the tamales to cool until set, about 2 hours. @ Steam over boiling water for15-20 minutes to reheat, and serve hot. Safety tipsfar pressure-cooking: see page 33

VARIATION: Corn Juice Tamales For a more intense corn flavor, subst itute Corn juice (see variatio n on page 337) for the water or corn stock in the tamale batter. WHILE YOU ' RE AT IT: Hu s h Puppies Follow steps 2-5 above to make tamale batter. Deepfry small (15 g/ 1 Tbsp) balls of the tamale batter in 175 "C/ 350 "F neutral frying oil (see page xx ii) until they turn brown and crispy, 3- 4 minutes. You might try a southern Ohio trick we learned from the family of one of our research chefs: substitute lemon-lime soda for one quarter of the stock or water. Another alternative we love is to lighten the batter by whipping108 g / Y2 cup of egg whites (from about 3 eggs), and then stirring them in after step 5. Yet another option is to grind freeze-dried corn to a powder, and then rol l the batter in it to yie ld an extreme ly crunchy crust and an extra burst of corn flavor. For deep-frying safety tips, see page 26.

34 0

MODERN I ST CU I SINE AT HOM E

Soak the dried co rn husks in warm water until they beco me pliable, at least 30 minutes. Shake th e m dry.

Whip the lard or butter in a stand mixer, scraping the sides of the bowl frequ e ntly, until it turns light and airy.

Fold the corn puree into the masa batter to make th e ta male batter.

Stack th e tamales, seam-side down, on a trivet or rack in a pressu re cooker. Pour in water to a d e pth of2 .5 cm / 1 in.

Pressure- cook the tamales at a gauge pressure of1 bar / 15 psi for 20 minutes . Start timing as soon as fu ll pressure has bee n reached.

Add the masa harina and corn stock or water to the mixer gradua lly, altern ating add itions of the two ingredients. Mix until fully blended to make the masa batter. When the batter is properly whipped, a dollop will float in a glass of water.

Place a dollop (a bout 70 g / 5 Tbsp) of the tam ale batte r in each co rn husk, and wrap each one firmly. One sid e of each co rn husk naturall y forms a cup shape. Place th e batter in this cu p, use the natural curl of the co rn husk to e nclose the batte r, and then fold the top of the husk down to sea l th e package. Ti e it closed with a narrow strip of co rn husk or a piece of string, if necessa ry.

CORNMEAL

Combine the fresh corn kernels, melted butter, sour cream, sugar, and sa lt in a food processor, and blend until even ly comb in ed into a corn puree . The puree doesn't have to be perfectly smooth; the cho pped corn kern els le nd a ni ce texture to the tamales.

Let the cooker coo l, or run te pid water over the rim, to depressurize it.

Cool th e tam ales comp letely, about 2 hours, to give the starches time to gel.

Reheat the tamales by stea ming them over boiling water for15 -20 minutes. Alternatively, mi crowave them, a few at a time, on full power for 1- 2 minutes. Serve them hot.

341

MICROWAVED EGGPLANT PARMESAN four servings (850 g) 45 minutes overall keeps for up to 3 days when refrigerated or up to 6 months when frozen moderate

YIELD: TIME ESTIMATE: STORAGE NOTES: LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY:

INGREDIENT

WEIGHT

VOLUME

SCALING

PROCEDURE

Panko bread crumbs

SOg

r's cup

15%

Parmigiano-Reggiano, grated

50 g

:Y., cup

15%

CD 0

Italian eggplant, peeled and sl iced 6 mm / Y., in thick Salt

330 g

12 slices (from 1 eggplant)

100%

Q) Arrange the eggplant sli ces in a single layer on a microwave-safe plate lined with paper towe ls, spri nkl e w ith the sa lt, and cover with add itional paper towels.

Y, tsp

0.6%

Microwave at1,100 W for 3 minutes. Work in batches if necessary.

Olive oil

SOg

55 mL /Y.. cup

15%

速

Brush the eggp lant slices with olive oil on both sid es, place them on a clean plate, and seal them w ith microwave-safe plastic wrap .

Marinara sauce

400g

lo/s cups

121%

速 0

see page 112

Preheat the oven to 175 "C/ 350 "F. Toss together, spread even ly on a baking sheet, a nd toast until the cheese and bread crumbs turn go ld en, abo utlO minutes. Reserve the crumbs for use in step 12.

Microwave at 1,100 W until fully te nd er, abo ut 4 minutes. Spread a generous spoonfu l of marinara sauce across the bottom of a microwave-safe dish that is 12.7 cm / 5 in square.

Full-fat ricotta cheese

150g

o/s cup

45%

Fresh mozzarella, thinly sliced

150g

1 cup

45%

速速

Basi l leaves, torn

lOg to taste

Y, cup

@ Top with another generous spoonfu l of marinara sa uce.

Salt

Preheat the oven to 175 "C/ 350 "F.

Toss the bread crumbs a nd cheese together, spread them on a baking sheet, and toast them until they turn golden, about 10 minutes. Set the cheesy bread crumbs as ide for use in step 12.

344

Lay four slices of the cooked eggplant over the sauce. Top the eggp lant with one-th ird of the basil and cheeses. Lig htly sa lt if desired.

@ Repeat steps 8-10 twice more, and top with remaining marinara sa uce. @ Sprinkle the toasted bread and cheese crumbs over the assemb led dish. @ Microwave at1,100 W until hot in the center a nd bubbly on the sid es, 5-6 minutes. Serve immediately.

Arrange the sl ices of eggp lant in a single layer on a microwave-safe plate lin ed with paper towels. Sprinkle them with the sa lt, and then cover them w ith add ition al paper towels. Microwave the eggp lant at 1,100 W for 3 minutes; add more time if your oven is less powerful than this. The paper towels absorb steam, so the eggp lant doesn't get soggy. Work in batches if necessary; do not stack sli ces on top of one another.

MODERNIST CUISINE AT HO ME

Brush the cooked slices with olive oil on both sides, place them on a clean microwave-safe plate, and sea l them tightly with plastic wrap, which traps the stea m produced during cooking. Use only plastic wrap specifically rated for microwaving.

Microwave the sli ces at 1,100 W until they are tender all the way through, abo ut 4 minutes. If they are sti ll slightly rubbery, cook for up to 2 minutes more.

Spread a generous spoonful of marinara sauce evenly across the bottom of a microwave-safe dish that is 12.7 cm / 5 in square and 5 cm / 2 in deep.

Arrange four sli ces of cooked eggplant on the sauce in a single layer.

Top the eggp lant with one-third of the ricotta, sli ced mozzarella, and basil. Add a li tt le salt to taste, but it may already be quite salty. You can use scissors to snip the basil.

Spread another generous spoonful of marinara sauce over the top.

Repeat steps 8-10 two more times to bui ld th ree layers. Spread any extra marinara sauce over the top.

Sprinkle the cheesy bread crumbs generously on top.

Microwave aga in atl,lOO W until the food is hot in the center and bubbly on the sides, 5-6 minutes. The sauce may bubble over, so it's a good id ea to place a plate underneath the dish.

DISH ES FOR T HE M I CROWAVE

345

SICHUAN BOK CHOY Jour servings (350 g/Jour heads oJbok choy) 10 minutes overall serve immediately easy black bean and chili paste, Shaoxing wine, Sous Vide Spiced Chili Oil (see page 118)

YIELD : TIME ESTIMATE: STORAGE NOTES: LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY: SPECIAL REQUIREMENTS:

This is such a practical and fast way to cook vegetables perfectly. Sealing the produce in a plastic bag captures steam to help the microwave do the cooking. If you can't find black bean and chili paste, replace it with a combination of garlic black bean sauce and

samba/ ulek, a salt-cured chili sauce (use a 2:1 ratio by weight). Alternatively, use our Korean Wing Sauce (see page 260) or 100 g of our Pressure-Caramelized Peanut Sauce with some extra minced lemongrass (see page 111) to obtain a different set of flavors.

INGREDIENT

WE IGH T

VOLUME

SCALING

PROCEDURE

Hoisin sauce (Lee Kum Kee brand) Fermented black bean and ch ili paste (Lee Kum Kee brand) Shaoxing wine Soy sauce Toasted-sesame oil

20g

20 mL/ 4tsp

CD 0

15g

1 Tbsp

Bg Sg 1g

9 mL / 2 tsp 4 mL/i"a tsp 1 mL /\4 tsp

2.6% 1.7% 0.3%

300g

4 medium heads

100%

50g

50 mL/\4 cup

17%

So us Vide Sp iced Ch ili Oil 10 g

10 mL / 214 tsp

3.3%

Baby bok choy, cleaned and halved Water

Combine in a pot, and bring to a simmer. Set aside to coo l slightly.

Place in a zip-top bag, remove as much air as possible from the bag, and seal it. @) Microwave it at1,100 Wfor2 minutes, and then let it restfor2 minutes in the bag. ® Remove the bok choy from the bag, shake off any excess water, and arrange it on plates.

Season the bok choy with the sp icy sa uce, ch ili oil, and sa lt. Serve it hot.

see page 118

Sa lt

to taste

VARIATIONS Bok Choy Medley 300g Baby bok choy, halved Pressure-Coo ked Barley, warmed 60 g

4 medium heads 4 Tbsp

40 g 32 g 32 g 12 g 12 g

8 pieces 8 florets 8 florets 12-161eaves 1 Tbsp

ltsp

see variation on page 121

Meyer lemon zest, grated

300g 60g

4 medium heads 14 cup

24g

3Tbsp

8g 4g

4tsp 4 mL/ 1 tsp

see variation on page 181

see page 184

Iberica ham, sliced paper thin Cauliflower florets Romanesco cau lifl ower florets Brussels sprout leaves Spinach Butter, warm

Autum n Flavors Bok Choy Baby bok choy, halved Broccoli-Gruyere Puree

Deep-fry both kinds of cau lifl ower florets in 175 ' C/ 350 ' F neutral frying oil until go ld en, about 10 minutes. Blanch the Brussels sprout leaves for 60 seco nds in boiling water, and then immediately plunge them into a n ice-water bath . Fo ll ow steps 3-5 above to cook the bok choy. Take apart the cooked bok choy leaves. Arrange the bok choy leaves, ham, barley, and vegetables artfully on plates. Drizzle the spinach butter over the top, garn ish with the lemo n zest, and season with salt.

Pickled Honeycrisp apple, fine ly diced see page130

Comte cheese, grated Hazelnut oi l

Follow steps 3- 5 above to cook the bok choy. Spoon the warm brocco li puree onto the plate, and garnish with the pickled apple. Sprinkle the grated cheese and hazelnut oil over the top. Microwaved Potato Salad Small fingerling potatoes Water Red onion, minced Bacon Mayonnaise

400g 15g 55g 55g

3 cups 1 Tbsp y, cup ]4 cup

15g to taste

1\lz Tbsp

see variation on page 108

Dijon mustard Sa lt

Place the potatoes and water in a zip-top bag, and microwave at 1,10 0 watts until tender, about 4 minutes. Allow to coo l, and sli ce into coins 1 in thick. Combine with the onion, mayonnaise, and mu stard . Season with sa lt to taste. Garnish with Pressure-Cooked Pickled Mustard Seeds (see page 125) and crispy bacon bits.

Combine the hoisin sauce, black bean and chili paste, wine, soy sauce, and sesame oil in a pot, and bring the mixture to a simmer.

Microwave the bok choy at 1,100 W for 2 minutes (or at full power for a bit longer, if your oven is less powerful than this), and then let it rest for 2 minutes in the bag or plastic wrap. If you're using a microwave-safe dish, cooking may take an extra minute. Microwave ovens vary widely in their power output, so check the power of yours before cooking, and adjust the power level or cooking

Remove the sauce from the heat, and allow it to cool slightly.

time accordingly.

Place the cleaned bok choy halves and the water in a zip-top bag. Remove as much air as possible from the bag, and seal it. Alternative ly, arrange the bok choy on a microwave-safe plate, add water, and then tightly cover the plate with microwave-safe plastic wrap.

Remove the bok choy from the bag, shake off any excess water from it, and arrange it on plates.

Season the bok choy with the sp icy sauce, chi li oil, and sa lt. Serve it hot.

Best Bets for Cooking Vegetables in the Microwave Oven All of the recipes in this chapter were tested by using a 1,100 watt microwave oven at full power, unl ess indi cated otherwise. The time required to cook vegetables in a microwave depends on the thickness to which you

cut them, as well as on their density and water co ntent. Drier vegetables cook more evenly if you seal the vegetables in a bag or under microwavesafe plastic wrap on a plate with a little water. Time (min)

Technique

Ingredients

Preparation

Procedure

cooking root vegetables

beets, carrots, ce lery root, potatoes, turnips

whole

vacuu m sea l, or arrange on a plate and seal with microwave-safe plastic wrap; cook medium beets for 6 minutes, and rub off the skin

3-7

cooking leafy greens

bok choy, broccoli, cabbage

whole

place in a zip-top bag with 50 ml / l4 cup of water; alte rnative ly, arra nge in a microwave-safe dish with in of water, and cover with microwave-safe 2 mm / plastic wrap

2-5

vacuum seal

2-5

Yâ&#x20AC;˘â&#x20AC;˘

cooking bulbs and fibrous vegetables

artichokes, cardoon, ce lery, fennel, leeks, onions

whole

DISHES FOR THE MICROWAVE

347

MICROWAVED BLACK COD WITH SCALLIONS AND GINGER two servings (450 g) 15 minutes overall serve immediately easy

YIELD: TIME ESTIMATE: STORAGE NOTES : LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY:

This recipe was adapted from Margaret Lu, the mother ofJohnny Zhu, one of the development chefs at The Cooking Lab. Mrs. Lu

you can substitute halibut fillets or small whole snapper, rockfish, trout, black sea bass, pomfret, or sole for the black cod. Fishes differ

originally made the dish with tilapia. Johnny adapted it to cod, but

a bit in their densities, so you may need to adjust the cooking time.

INGREDIE NT

WE IGHT

VOLUME

SCALING

Black cod, ski n on

450 g/ llb

2 fillets

100%

5-6 scallions

5.6%

0 ®

PROCED URE Place each fil let in a separate, microwave-safe zip-top bag, and then place each one, skin-side down, on a microwave-safe plate.

Scallion, white parts o nly, 25g julienned Ginger, peeled and lO g cu t into co ins Shaoxing wine 5g

2-3 coins

2.2%

5 mL / 1'./.1 tsp

Soy sauce Toasted-sesame o il

25g 2g

20 mL / 4'.4 tsp 2mL/:Y. tsp

5.6% 0.4%

Sca lli on, green parts only, finely julie nned Gin ger, peeled a nd finely julienned

lO g

'14 cup

2.2%

@ Garnish each cooked fillet .

1 Tbsp

0.7%

50g

55 mL / 3'/2 Tbsp

11%

Peanut oi l

VARIATIONS Microwaved Sea Bass, Tilapia, Ha libut, or So le To make this recipe with other kinds offish, use the cooking times given below.

Combine, and mound half on top of each fillet in the bag. Pour half ofthe wine into each bag. @) Microwave each fillet at 800 W until the fish becomes opaque and flakes easi ly, 3V,-5 minutes, and then remove it from the bag, and scrape off the sca lli on and ginger. If your mi crowave oven is more powerful than 800 W, lower the power level accordingly.

0 ®

Combine, and pour half of the mixture evenly over each fish fillet.

Heat in a small pan to 190 •c / 374 •F. Drizzle the hot peanut oil over the garnished fish. Serve immediately.

Aro m atic Microwaved Cod For a more intensely aromatic dish, comb ine the Shaoxing win e with 10 g / 4 tsp of minced ginger and 25 g/ 4 tsp of minced scallion, white parts only. Rub the mixture gently and even ly all over the surface of each fillet, and then place the fillets in bags as directed in step 1. Continue at step 3.

Who le black sea bass (450 g): 6 V2 minutes

3 48

Whole tilapia (800 g): 6 minutes

MODERNIS T CUISIN E AT HOME

Place each fillet in a separate, microwavesafe zip-top bag, and then place each one, skin-side down, on a microwavesafe plate. The plate makes it eas ier to handle the fish.

Combine the soy sauce and toasted-sesame oil, and pour half of the mixture evenly over each of the two cooked fi ll ets.

Garnish each fillet w it h t he julienned gi nger

Heat the peanut oil in a small pan to 190 "C/ 374 "F.

Drizzle one half of the hot peanut o il slowly and even ly over the top of each fil let. The

Combine the scalli on wh ites and ginger coins, and mound them on each fil let in its bag.

Pour half of the Shaoxing wine into each bag and around the fish.

Microwave each fillet at 800 W until the fish becomes opaque and fl akes eas ily, 3Y,-5 minutes, and th en remove it from its bag, and scrap e offthe scallion and ginger. Use caution: th e bags contain very hot steam . If your mi crowave oven is more powerful t han 800 W, lower the power leve l acco rdin gly. Set th e power level of an 1.100 Woven. for examp le. to 75% or leve l 7.

and sca lli o n greens.

•• ••

oil shou ld sizzle and pop as it releases th e aromas of t he scal lions. Serve the fish immediately.

Halibut fillet {170 g): 2'.4 minutes

Dover so le fillet {170 g): l h minutes

DISH ES FOR T HE MICROWAVE

349

MICROWAVED BEEF JERKY YIELD: TIME EST IMATE: STORAGE NOTES: LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY: SPECIAL REQU IREMENTS:

310 g/ about 32 strips 5-25 hours overall, including 1 hour ofpreparation and 4-24 hours unattended keeps for 5 days when stored in an airtight container moderate 1 L whipping siphon and two cartridges of nitrous oxide (optional)

Making beef jerky involves two time-consuming steps: marinating and drying, each of which can take a day or more when done the traditional way. Modernist techniques can cut the time to just S hours . You can use a whipping siphon to pressure-marinate the beef, and then dry it in mere minutes in a microwave oven. Jerky should be made oflean meat because beef fat quickly turns INGRED IENT

WE IGHT

VOLUME

Beef flank steak, trimmed 715g/ 1.51b Soy sauce As ian fish sauce Suga r Map le syrup {grade B) Worcestershire sauce Black pepper Cayenne pepper

60g 30 g 40g 15g 4g 0.2g 0.2g

50 mL / 3Y' Tbsp 25 mL / lY2Tbsp 3 Tbsp 1 Tbsp 3 mL/V.. tsp Ys tsp Y• tsp

rancid at room temperature. Flank steak is ideal, but any lean cut of red meat will do, including venison or lamb. We prefer thick jerky, but if you are using a tougher cut, such as a flatiron steak, cut the strips as thinly as possible. This recipe uses soy sauce and fish sauce to impart a mild A sian flavor; see below for spicy, smoky, and South African variations.

SCALING

PROCEDURE

100%

0 Slice, against the grain, into strips that are 10 em/ 4 in long and 12 mm / y, in thick.

8.3% 4.2% 5.6% 2.1% 0.6% 0.03% 0.03%

0 ® @)

® ®

0 ® ® @ @

@ @ @

VA RI AT IO NS Spicy Jerky In ste p 2, add 4 g/ 2 tsp of red chi li fl akes to the marin ade. Smoky Jerky In ste p 2, add 1.7 g/ V.. tsp of li qu id hi cko ry smoke to the marinade. BiltongJerky In ste p 2, add 7.5 g / 10 Tbsp of ground coriander to th e marinad e, a nd increase th e qua ntity of black pepper to 7.5 g/ 1Y' Tbsp.

Comb in e, and stir until the sugar disso lves to make a marinade. Stir the beef strips in the marin ade until coated. Transfer the meat a nd marinade to a 1 Lsi ph o n, charge with two cartridges of nitrous oxide, and refrigerate it for 4 ho urs. Alternatively, combi ne the meat and marinade in a zip-top bag, remove as mu ch air as possible from the bag, sea l it, and refrigerate it fo r15-24 hours. Drain the beef strips, and pat them dry with paper towels. Place the strips o n a microwave-safe plate, leaving a mpl e space between the pieces for proper air circul atio n. Cover with pl astic wrap, a nd microwave at 500 W for 20 minutes. Let the stri ps rest for 1-2 minutes. Remove th e plastic wrap, drain off the liquid, and blot th e pi eces dry. Flip and rotate th e pieces to p lace th e rare r parts facing up a nd nea r the outside of the plate. Microwave th e strips, un cove red, at 500 W for 30 seconds. Blot and flip the pieces. Co ntinue cooking in short bursts at 500 W, blotting a ny liqu id that forms a nd rotating as needed until the pieces are dark brown and dry, 2- 3 minutes more. Transfer the cooked jerky to a clean plate, and cover it with plastic wrap. Repeat steps 7-12 with all of the re maini ng beef strips. Serve the jerky at room temperature.

A bri ef history of d rying meat The technique of salt curing and drying meat was developed millennia ago as one of the earliest methods of preserving food, and it is still wide ly used in parts of the world where refrigeration is unavailable. Many cultures have versions of lea n dried meat. In the United States, it's called beef jerky. In South Africa, it's called biltong and is often made of eland or other game. Switzerland has Biindneifleisch, and Italy has bresao/a. Although necessity drove the invention of cured and dried meats, they live on because peop le have come to like their unique combination of flavor and texture.

Slice the fl a nk steak, cutting agai nst the gra in, into st rips that are 10 em / 4 in long a nd 12 mm / 1h in thick. We like our jerky quite thick, but ma ke the strips thinner if using a tougher cut, such as flatiron steak.

Co mbin e the soy sauce, fish sauce, suga r, map le syrup, Worcestershire sa uce, and peppers, a nd stir until d issolved to make a marinad e.

Stir the strips of meat into the marinade until they are we ll coated.

Tra nsfer th e meat a nd marinade to a 1 Lsi phon, c harge the siph on w ith two cartridges of nitrous oxide, and refrigerate it for4 ho urs (4a). The high pressure accelerates ma rinatio n. Alte rnative ly, comb in e the meat and marinade in a zip-top bag, re move as mu ch air as possib le from the bag, and sea l it (4b). Then refrigerate the sealed bag for 15-24 hours. Lay th e bag flat, if poss ible, a nd flip it periodically so that th e stri ps brin e even ly. Dra in the marinade fro m the beef strips, and use pa pe r towe ls to pat th e m dry.

Arrange as many of the beef strips as will fit o n a mi crowave-safe plate w hile spaci ng them we ll apa rt. Proper drying req uires air circulation, so don't crowd the strips; work in batches as needed.

Cover the plate with microwave-safe plastic wrap, and microwave at 500 W for 21h minutes to cook the meat.

Let the stri ps rest for a minute or two. Cooking a nd resti ng the meat helps keep it te nder and reduces the drying time.

Re move the plastic wrap, drain off the liquid, a nd blot the pi eces dry with pa pe r towe ls. Flip a nd rotate the pieces to place the ra rer pa rts facing up and near the o utsid e of the plate.

Mi crowave the stri ps, un cove red, at 500 W for 30 seco nds. Blot a nd flip the pieces.

Beef strips raw (left), marinated (middle). and cooked.

Continue coo king in sho rt bursts at 500 W, blotting any liqu id that forms a nd ro tati ng as need ed until the pieces a re dark b rown and dry, 2- 3 minutes more.

Transfer the cooked jerky to a clean pl ate, a nd cover it with plastic wrap. Thi s he lps to equ a lize the rema ining moisture a mong the strips.

DIS HE S FOR THE M I CROWA VE

13 14

Re peat steps 7-12 as needed to coo k th e re maining beef strips. Serve the jerky at roo m temperature.

3 51

CRISPY BEEF STRANDS 80g/2cups 490 hours overall, including 10 hours ofpreparation and 48 hours unattended keeps for 5 days when stored in an airtight container moderate

YIELD: TIME EST IMATE: STORAGE NOTES: LEVEL OF DIFF ICULTY:

This recipe, which uses a cooking and drying technique very similar to that used to make Microwaved BeefJerky, produces delicate, crispy

salad (see next page), but you can also use them to garnish steak (see page 194), braised short ribs (see page 229), or any other meat dish

strands of fried beef. We use them in a Thai-inspired beef and shallot

that benefits from a crisp texture and an intense burst of umami flavor.

INGREDIENT

WEIGHT

VOLUME

Beef flank steak, trimmed 500g/ 1.11b Soy sauce Asian fish sa uce Sugar Salt

125g 85g 14 g 5g

Ne utral frying oi l

as needed

110 mL/ Y2 cup 70 mL/ 4Y2 Tbsp 1 Tbsp 1'.4 tsp

SCALI G

PROCEDURE

100%

25% 17% 2.8% 1%

0 0

Slice with the grain into strips that are 10 em / 4 in long and 12 mm / Y2 in thick. Long, uncut threads of beef make better strands.

Combine, and stir to dissolve. Stir the meat and brine together to coat. @) Transfer to a zip-top bag, remove as much a ir as possible from the bag, and sea l it. 速 Refrigerate for 48 ho urs. 速 Drain off the brine, and pat the beef strips dry with paper towels. 0 Place the strips of beef on a microwave-safe plate, leaving at least 2 cm / :Y., in between the pieces for proper air circulation. 速 Microwave the strips, a few at a time, at 800 W for 3-5 minutes, flipping them every minute or two, and patting them dry. Cook the strips until they become brown and dry; they shou ld stil l be slightly flexible .

速

see page xx ii

@ @ @ @

Fill a deep pot with oil to a depth of2.5 cm / 1 in, and preheat the oi l to 180 "C/ 356 "F. Pull the strips of dried beef apa rt into long, very thin stra nds. Fry the beef strands in the hot o il until dry and crispy, abo ut 1 minute . Drain o n paper towe ls. Serve hot.

Safety tips f or deep f rying: see page 26

352

MODERN I ST CUISIN E AT HOM E

22 CRISPY BEEF AND SHALLOT SALAD YIELD: TIM E ESTIMATE: STORAGE NOTES: LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY: SPECIAL REQUIREMENTS :

Jour servings (200 g/ 3 cups) 20 minutes overall serve immediatelyj fried shallots keep for up to 5 days in an airtight container moderate Crispy Beef Strands (see the previous page)j Thai Sweet, SouTj and Savory Glaze (see page 115)

We developed this salad as a garnish to our recipe in Modernist

Cuisine for short ribs cooked sous vide. It was inspired by the Australian chef David Thompson. The crispy beef strands are delicious and set up a wonderful contrast w ith the Asian flavors of the salad. INGREDIENT

WEIGHT

Ne utral fryi ng oil

as needed

VOLUME

SCALING

50g

Sa lt

to taste

Crispy Beef Strands

arugula, shredded fennel, and red onion. PROCEDURE G) Preheatl cm /:Y. in of fry ing o il to 170 •c / 338 •Fin a deep-sided ski ll et.

see page xxii

Sha ll ot, sli ced 1 mm /'/32 in thick

To make the salad more substantial, try adding shredded pineapple and green papaya (available at Asian or Latin American markets), or julienned jicama and cucumber. For a Western version, try baby

Y, cup

63%

BOg

2 cups

100%

1 Tbsp

3.8%

2g 2g 2g 2g 1.5g 1g

1 Tbsp 1 Tbsp 1 Tbsp 1 Tbsp l Y, Tbsp 1-2 ch ilies

2.5% 2.5% 2.5% 2.5% 1.8% 1.3%

lOO g

Y, cup

125%

0 ®

Deep-fry until dry and golden, about 2 minutes. Drain on paper towe ls.

0 Season the fri ed shall ots, a nd set th e m as ide.

Toss together with the fried shallots.

Warm the glaze, a nd drizzle it into the sa lad .

Season the sa lad, and serve it imm ed iate ly.

see the previo us page

Cilantro ste ms, cut to 1 cm /:Y. in lengths Sca llion, finely julie nn ed Small cilantro leaves Small mint leaves Small Thai basil leaves Lim e zest, fin ely julienned Thai chili, seeded a nd sli ced paper thin Thai Sweet, Sour, and Savory Glaze see page 115

Lim e juice Salt

to taste to taste

Safety tipsfor deep-frying: see page 26

Dress the salad lightly for a savory crunch or heavily for an intensely tangy and chewier version.

VARIATION : Crispy Shallots After ste p 4, sto re the crispy, salted sha ll ots in a n airtight co ntainer. Use them on steaks, in sa lads, or in Savory Cheese Pie (see variatio n on page 379).

DISHES FOR THE MICROWAVE

353

MICROWAVE-FRIED PARSLEY about 50 leaves 15 minutes overall best served immediately, but keeps for 1 day when stored in an airtight container easy

YIELD: TIME ESTIMATE: STORAGE NOTES: LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY:

The microwave oven is the secret to making an impressive herb garnish quickly, without the mess offrying in oil. After microwaving, the Italian parsley remains a brilliant emerald green, the texture becomes

basil, dill, carrot tops, baby spinach, and lovage work equally well. Verbena and lemon balm, however, tend to brown and wilt too quickly. Inexpensive PVC-based plastic wrap is not recommended;

intriguingly crisp, and the leaves lie perfectly flat. We find that sage,

use plastic specifically designed for use in microwave ovens.

INGREDIENT

WEIGHT

Neutral -tasting o il or cooking spray

as needed

PROCEDURE

VOLUME

0 Stretch a piece of microwave-safe plastic wrap taut over a microwavesafe plate. The plastic should seal tightly to the edge of the plate.

0 Brush the plastic wrap with a thin film of oil, or coat it with cook ing spray. Italian parsley

about SO leaves

Salt

to taste

Lay the parsley leaves on the prepared plastic wrap, leaving abo ut 2 em I ¥! in between the leaves. Work in batches as needed. @) Brush the tops of the leaves lightly with oil, or use cook ing spray or yo ur fingers to dab on the oi l. ® Microwave at 800 W until crisp, about 4 minutes. Check the leaves every 90 seconds; do not let them burn.

'h cup

0 ®

Transfer th e fried leaves to a tray lined with paper towels, and season them. Repeat with the rema ining oil and pars ley leaves. Change the plastic wrap on every other batch to prevent overheating. Serve the fried herbs at room temperature.

(adapted from Heston Blumenthal)

Stretch a piece of microwave-safe plastic wrap taut over a microwave-safe plate. The plastic shou ld sea l tightly to the edge of the plate.

Italian parsley

354

Dill

Brush the plastic wrap with a thin film of oi l, or coat it with cooking spray.

Chervil

MODERNI ST CU ISI NE AT HOME

Lay the parsley leaves on the prepared plastic wrap. Space the leaves about 2 em I ¥! in apart. Work in batches as needed.

Brush the tops of the leaves lightly with oi l, or use cook ing spray or your fingers to dab on the oil.

Microwave at 800 W until crisp, about 4 minutes. Check the leaves every 90 seconds to make certain that they don 't burn.

Transfer the crisp, fried parsley leaves to a tray lined with paper towels, a nd season them.

Repeat with the remaining o il and parsley leaves. Change the plastic wrap on every ot her batch to keep it from overheating.

Serve the fr ied herbs at room temperature.

Check that yo ur cling wraps or plastic bags are rated microwave-safe before using them in the microwave oven . Bags and wraps made from polyethylene generall y are microwave-safe, whereas those that contain polyviny l ch loride (PVC) plastics generally are not.

DI SHE S FOR THE MI CROWAVE

355

INSTANT CHOCOLATE SPONGE YIELD: TIME ESTIMATE: STORAGE NOTES: LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY: SPECIAL REQUIREMENTS:

six to eight servings (650 g) 40 minutes overall, including 20 minutes unattended batter keeps for 24 hours when refrigerated easy 1 L whipping siphon, three cartridges of nitrous oxide, six to eight heavy-duty paper cups, Wondra, xanthan gum (optional) If heavy-duty paper cups are not available, use pairs of stacked

With a whipping siphon, you can prepare and cook a fluffy, warm cake in just minutes. It will have a rough, rustic texture unlike a con-

regular cups. Never use waxed cups; they will melt. The xanthan

ventional cake-more like a coarse, steamed sponge. Serve it alone

gum in this recipe helps bind the batter so that it stays lighter when

or with fruit, ice cream, or Sous Vide Lemon Curd (see page 365).

it sets. But the recipe works fine without it.

INGREDIENT

WEIGHT

VOLUME

SCALING

PROCEDURE

Whole milk Semisweet chocolate, chopped Unsalted butter, cubed

150g llSg

150 mL /7'3 cup Y., cup

120% 92%

75g

:Ya cup

60%

Eggs, blended

100g

y, cup /

80%

® 0

Cut four slits spaced eq ua lly a round the bottom edge of a heavy-duty paper cup; repeat for the remaining five to seven cups. Combine the milk, chocolate, and butter in a microwave-safe bowl, and microwave at1,100 W until melted, about1 minute. Whisk until smooth . Cool slightly. Whisk into the cooled choco late mixture.

about 2 eggs Wondra Powdered sugar Dutch-processed cocoa powder Salt Baking soda Xanthan gum (Bob's Red Mill brand), optional

125 g 125 g 6g

1 cup 1',4 cups 2 tsp

100% 100% 4.8%

S.Sg 0 .6g 0.3g

1Y, tsp Ya tsp

4.4% 0.48% 0.24%

Cooking spray

as needed

® ®

0 ®

® @ @ @ @

Use scissors or a razor blade to cut four slits on the bottom of six to eight heavy-duty paper cups. Space the slits evenly to provide ventilation. The thick cake batter won't ooze out.

356

Sift together. Fold a third of the choco late mixture into the dry ingred ie nts, and then stir in the remainder to form a smooth batter. Pour the batter into a 1 Lsiphon, and charge it with three cartridges of nitrous oxide. Allow the siphon to sit at room temperature for 20 minutes.

Spray the in sid e of each paper cup with cook ing spray, wiping away any excess oil. Dispense enough batter to fill a quarter of one paper cup. Microwave the cake at1,100 W for 50 seconds to cook through. Let the cake rest for a few secon ds, and then upend it onto a plate. Repeat steps 10-12 with the re maining batter a nd cups. Serve warm.

After whisking the chocolate mixture, allow it to cool slightly so that the eggs do not cook when they are added.

MODERNIST CUISINE AT HOME

You can avoid overheating the batter by adding only a third of the chocolate mixture to the dry ingredients at first. and then stirring in the remainder.

The siphon aerates the batter into a foam, which then rises slightly as it bakes in the microwave oven. Let the cake rest for a few seconds before upending it onto a plate. The idea of microwaving a siphon-whipped batter originated with the great Spanish chef Ferran Adria.

VARIATIONS In each of the va riations below, first follow step 1 to prepa re the cups. Then whisk together the first group of ingredients listed for the variation. Next, sift together the dry ingredients listed in the second group. Then continue with steps 6-13. Peanut Butter Sponge Whol e milk 150g Natural peanut 115g butter, smooth 100 g Eggs, beate n 76 g Haze lnut oil Powd ered sugar 187g Wondra 125g Salt 9g 0.6g Ba king soda

150 ml / '/3 cup J/2 cup 2 eggs 80 mL/ Ys cup lo/a cups 1 cup 2Y. tsp Va tsp

Sesame Sponge Whole milk Tahini Eggs, beate n Toasted-sesa me oil Powd ered sugar Wondra Sa lt Baking soda

150g 115g lOO g 50 g 187g 125g 9g 0.6g

150 ml/ '/3 cup J/2 cup 2 eggs 55 mL / 14 cup lo/a cups 1 cup 2]4 tsp Va tsp

DISH ES FOR THE MICROWAV E

Raspberry Macadam ia Nut Spo nge 150 g Raspbe rry juice 150 ml /'/3 cup Macadami a butter 115g Ys cup 2 eggs 100 g Eggs, beate n Macadamia oil 80 ml/Ys cup 76g Egg white, beaten 40 g 3 Tbsp 187g Powd ered sugar lo/a cups 125g Wondra 1 cup 2 Tbsp 15 g Freeze-Dri ed Raspberry Powde r see page377

Sa lt Powd ered mi lk Baking soda

9g 5g 0.6g

214 tsp 2 tsp Va tsp

357

CUSTARDS AND PIES Modernist techniques and ingredients apply just as well to desserts as they do to savory foods-indeed , one could easily fill an entire book exploring the applications of Modernist concepts to crafting sweets. That is not our focus in this book, but we felt it important to include recipes for all the elements that go into a great meal. So this final chapter focuses on two particularly versatile forms of dessert: custards and pies. From these recipes, you can learn how to make impressive custards that span the range from the liquid form (creme arrglaise) to firm (panna cotta), and from desserts that are finished on top with burnt sugar (creme brulee), jam, or lemon curd (posset) to those that are frozen and vegan (an eggless, dairy-free ice cream). The chapter concludes with a healthy handful of examples that illustrate how you can compose custards of various kinds to make classic pies that combine contrasting flavors and textures. Use .these as inspiration for whatevei: satisfies your sweet tooth.

Raspberry panna cotta, coffee creme

Gelatin is not just for Jell-0. We show

brUiee, chocol ~te c~eam pie-the possi-

you how to use this amaz ing ingredient

bilities are end less. Mix and match

w ith precision and confidence in panna

froin our favorite oa'v or combinations

cottas and other desserts.

and t'echniques to create your dwn heav~nly

see page 366

dessert.

see p~ge 361

A dairy-free, egg-free pis.t achio .

The pressure-caramelizing technique

gelato is possible, thanks to the thick-

;.e use for c;rrot soup (see pag~ l ?8)

ening powers of tapioca starch and

also works wonders with bananas, lend-

xanthan gum. And it tastes so delic,ious

ing them a deep golden color and intense

and smooth, it's not just for veganseveryone loves this gelatO.

see page 370

flavor that we include in our Banana . Cream Pie.

see page_379

FURTHER READING

Achatz, G. Alinea . Achatz, 2008. Adria, F. The Family Meal: Home Cooking with Ferran Adria. Phaidon, 2011 .

Adria, F., Soler,]., and Adria, A. elBulli 19831993. RBA Practica, 2004.

Adria, F., Soler,]., and Adria, A. elBulli 1994-1997. Ecco, 2006. Adria, F., Soler,]., and Adria, A. elBulli 19982002. Ecco, 2005 .

Adria, F., Soler,]., and Adria, A. elBulli 20032004. Ecco, 2006.

Adria, F., Soler,]., and Adria, A. A Day at elBulli: An Insight into the Ideas, Methods and Creativity of Ferran Adria. Phaidon, 2008.

Aduriz, A. L. Mugaritz: A Natural Science of Cooking. Phaidon, 2012.

Aftel, M. and Patterson, D. Aroma: The Magic of

Bouley, D., Lohninger, M., and Clark, M. East of Paris: The New Cuisines of Austria and the

Green, C. and Scott, S. The Wild Table: Seasonal Foraged Food and Recipes. Studio, 2010.

Danube. Ecco, 2003.

Henderson, F. The Whole Beast: Nose to Tail

Boulud, D. and Kaminsky, P. Chef Daniel Boulud: Cooking in New York City. Assouline, 2002.

Bras, M. Essential Cuisine. lei La Press, 2002. Brown, A. Good Eats: The Early Years. Stewart,

Humm, D. and Guidara, W. Eleven Madison Park:

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Ill

GLOSSARY OF COOIZING TERMS

00 wheat flour-Italia n wheat flour milled from only the core of the wheat grain, yielding a flour with high-quality protein that makes it excellent for forming noodles and breads such as pizza and ciabatta. accuracy-how close an instrument's reading is to the true value of what is being measured. Note that accuracy is different from precision. achiote paste-red paste made from the pulp surrounding the seed of the achiote tree. It adds both color and a slight peppery flavor to food. active dryyeast-dryyeast granules available at most supermarkets. Dehydrating keeps the yeast alive but dormant. adductor muscle-muscle that pulls tissue closer to the middle of the body. The muscle that pulls the two sides of a bivalve closed . adobo-stewed meat with a vinegar-rich glaze. Considered the national dish of the Philippines. aerolatte-brand name of a battery-powered, handheld whipping tool often used to froth milk. agar- (agar agar) clear, tasteless gelling agent derived from seaweed. Can also be used as a thickener or stabilizer. Available from Asian markets or food ingredient companies. The latter sell agar

amylopectin- type of polymer composed of glucose that makes natural starches. Binds up water and thickeners better than amylose. amylose-type of polymer composed of glucose that makes natural starches. Better for forming gels than amylopectin. anaerobic-living or occurring without oxygen . anaerobic bacterium-bacterium that does not require oxygen to survive. anardana-(dried pomegranate seeds) Indian spice of air-dried pomegranate seeds, or arils, often used as an acidic agent for chutneys and curries. Chiefly from tart, wild pomegranates. annatto seeds-red seeds from a tropical tree that are used as a food coloring and a mild, peppery

benrre nair-French term for "black butter" made by heating butter to the point where the milk solids become very dark brown but not burnt. beurre noisette-French term for "nut butter," or brown butter, made by heating butter to the point where the milk solids become brown with a nutty aroma. biltong-South African term for dried, spiced meat similar to jerky. bird 's eye chili-(Thai chili) fresh, tiny, very hot red and green chilies. Often used in T hai cooking but similar varieties are used internationally. bisque-thick, rich soup often made with crustacean stock that is thickened slightly with rice or pureed vegetables and fini shed with cream.

spice. Used to make achiote powder and paste. antioxidant-any compound that inhibits oxidation reactions. Lemon juice or citric acid work

black salt (kala namak) -Indian spice made from impure sodium chloride crystals. The salt

as antioxidants on cut apple slices .

such as iron sulfide and other sulfur compounds . blanch-to whiten or draw out, to brie.fly cook the

aquaculture-cultivation of aquatic animals

or plants. Arborio rice-starchy, short-grain rice; most often used in risotto and rice pudding. ascorbic acid-a form of vitamin C.

is dark in color and flavor from other minerals

exterior. To submerge food in boiling liquid briefly to loosen a peel, sanitize its surface, or to remove

undesirable tastes or aromas. Bloom- measurement of the strength of a gelatin gel with a device created by Oscar Bloom. bomba rice- Spanish, short-grain white rice

powders, graded by gelling strength, that have more consistent performance. agave syrup-(agave nectar) sweetener made

Ashkenazi-one of the major groups ofJews. Ashkenazis generally speak Yiddish and live mainly in Eastern Europe. Asian fish sauce- (garum, nam pia, nuoc mam,

from agave, a desert shrub-like succulent with sword-shaped leaves . aioli-French term for a mayonnaise-like sauce boldly flavored with garlic. Traditional versions

muria) clear, salty condiment or seasoning made from salted, fermented fish . Used widely in Southeast Asian cuisine. bacteria (singular bacterium) -large group of

often contain potato or bread. ajowan- (ajwain) tiny, seed-like fruits of a variety of lovage with a flavor similar to thyme and cara-

single-celled microorganisms that lack a nucleus

liquid or humid air in a closed vessel.

or chlorophyll.

brine-salt solution. Also, to imbue food with a salt solution, either by soaking or injection, in order to change its flavor and texture. broccoli raab- (rabe, rapini) Italian, leafy green

way. Used in Indian foods. albumin powder-(albumen) dehydrated egg-

bar- metric unit of measurement of barometric pressure. Standard atmospheric pressure at sea

white protein.

level is 1.013 bar (1,013 millibar) . A gauge pressure of 1 bar, as in a pressure cooker, means that the

alkaline-having a pH value greater than 7. amchoor- (amchur) dried green mango powder;

interior pressure is 1 bar higher than the ambient

used as a seasoning to add a tangy flavor. amino acid-one of the chemical building blocks from which proteins are composed. Virtually all proteins are made from a repertoire of just 22 kinds of amino acids.

air pressure of the su rrounding atmosphere. bechamel-white sauce. A classic French "mother sauce" of raux-thickened, mildly flavored milk. beurre blanc-French term for "white butter," a white wine and shallot-flavored, emulsified butter sauce.

traditionally used for paella. bonito flakes- (katsuo bushi) shavings of cured and dried bonito, a variety of fish from the mackerel family. A principal ingredient in dashi, and also used as a seasoning or garnish. braise-to slow-cook food (usually meat) in

vegetable with tender flower buds. bromelain-naturally forming enzyme found in pineapple that breaks down protein and is used as a meat tenderizer.

Bronte Sicilian pistachio- very green pistachio with an intense, sharp flavor grown in and around Bronte, Sicily, in the shadow of Mount Etna. briitee-French term for burn or brown, often used in reference to caramelized sugar in dishes such as creme brulee.

calcium chloride-mineral salt of calcium, used to firm up the skin of beans. Also used in making

chervil-tender, parsley-like herb with a faint licorice taste; a traditional ingredient in the

Modernist gels.

French fines herbes mix. chicharron-crispy fried pork skin. chicken forewing-segment of chicken wing that contains the ulna and radius bones, located

calcium lactate-salt created by the interaction oflactic acid and calcium carbonate, used in baking powder. Also used as an alternative to calcium chloride to toughen the skins on beans and to add a crispness to pickles. Used commonly by Modernist chefs in making spherical gels. calibrate-to check the performance of a piece of equipment, such as a thermometer or oven, against a known standard so that it may be adjusted to conform to the standard or so that recipe steps may be altered to compensate for its inaccuracies. canning jar-heat-tolerant jar made of thick glass and having an airtight, resealable screw lid. capicola-{capicollo, coppa) Italian cured and rolled pork shoulder often served as salami.

between the pinion and the drummette. chickpeas-(garbanzo, ceci bean, Bengal gram) high-protein legume. Available dried, canned, and occasionally fresh. chiffonade-thinly sliced, leafy greens or vegetables often used as a base or garnish. chimichurri-Argentinian condiment made of chopped herbs and aromatics in oil. Often used with grilled meats. Chinese sau sage-{lap cheong, lop chong) slightly sweet, fatty pork sausage that is traditionally cured and air-dried. Also available flavored

carbonation-the process of dissolving carbon dioxide gas into a substance. It is common in beverages and soft drinks, but solid foods can

with liver.

also be carbonated.

is commonly sold fresh. clarified-made clear. Clarified fats are melted, skimmed, and decanted to make clarified fat.

carbonize-to char or burn. cardoon-European vegetable in the artichoke

chorizo-highly spiced pork sausage. Spanish chorizo is often smoked or cured. Mexican chorizo

confit-French term meaning "preserved." Meat confit has historically meant a preparation of salt-cured meat cooked and kept in fat to provide an airtight seal that helps preserve the food. For fruits, confit or confiture means preserves-as in jams and jellies. Confit has come to mean almost any food cooked slowly in oil or fat until tender. consomme-thin, flavorful, and very clear liquid. Traditionally made from meat broths; today, it's often prepared from vegetable and fruit juices as well. convection-heat transfer that occurs within a fluid because of the movement of particles within the fluid, such by hot air or water. convection current-moving stream of fluid created by convection. convection oven-oven that includes a fan to distribute heated air. cooking spray-neutral-tasting cooking oil in aerosol form. Some commercially available cooking sprays also contain lecithin. cook to a core temperature-phrase used to describe the technique of cooking an ingredient until the temperature in the center of the thickest

to make risotto.

coagulate-to thicken or gel. coconut cream-thick creamy liquid made by grinding fresh coconut meat in water and then

part reaches a target value. core temperature-temperature at the very center of the food . Usually monitored by using

carnitas-Mexican dish of slow-cooked pork that is shredded and browned. carotene-fat-soluble pigments found in plants

skimming the fatty "cream" from the top. coconut cream powder-dehydrated, powdered coconut cream available at Asian markets and

a probe attached to a digital thermometer. Cotija-(queso ai\ejo) dry, salty Mexican cow's

like carrots and squash that can transform into

specialty stores. coconut milk-liquid, usually clear or nearly clear, drained from the interior of a whole coconut.

creme fraiche -French term for thick and tangy cream; traditionally prepared by wild fermen tation, but now prepared with a commercial culture.

coddle-to cook gently in warm water; often referring to eggs. cohere-to stick together or bind as part of the

crown-cut of poultry that includes the breasts, rib cage, and wings. crustacean-class of aquatic invertebrate, such

family with edible, fibrous stalks. Carnaroli rice-starchy Italian rice often used

vitamin A. Beta-carotene is the most abundant of the carotenes. carrageenan-vegetarian gelling alternative to gelatin, extracted from a variety of red seaweed sometimes called Irish moss. Iota type makes soft, elastic gels. Kappa type makes firm, brittle gels. Lambda type thickens but does not gel. centrifugal force-the outward force exerted by a body as it revolves around an external axis. chaat-term used in India to refer to snacks, which are often savory dishes sold by street vendors. chaat masala-combination of spices used as a sprinkle on everyday foods and fruits in India. Blends vary by region and producer. chamber sealer-device used for vacuum sealing food in plastic bags. It includes a pump for evacu-

same mass.

as lobster, crab, or shrimp, having a segmented,

collagen-fibrous proteins found in the skin, flesh, bones, and connective tissues that yield

protective shell.

gelatin when cooked. combi oven-oven capable of cooking both by heated air distributed with a fan {as convection ovens do) and by steam injected into the cooking chamber. compound butter-butter that has been softened, blended with flavorings, and then chilled again. Often used as a sauce or condiment. Comtt\-aged French cow's milk cheese with a buttery, nutty flavor. Comte that does not meet the

ating air from the chamber, as well as one or more sealing bars that melt the open end of the bags closed once nearly all of the air has been removed. chanterelles-(girolle) wild, funnel-shaped mushrooms, valued for their golden color and

regional standard in flavor and production is often sold as French Gruyere. conduction-heat transfer that occurs through energy exchanged between particles, such as by

nutty, buttery flavor. Black, white, and gray

the direct contact of surfaces.

varieties are less common .

chawanmushi-(chawan mushi) Japanese term for savory egg custard steamed in a bowl or cup, often made with seafood.

milk cheese.

curd-thickened milk gel that has been treated with a coagulant to make cheese. cure-to preserve food with salt. Often combined with smoking. Confusingly, a curing brine is sometimes called a "pickle," and sometimes foods pickled in an acidic solution are referred to as cured, although the underlying processes are different. curing-soaking meat in a chemical solution (or rubbing dry chemicals on it) to induce changes in texture, flavor, and color.

curry leaves-{kari leaves) fresh, shiny, aromatic leaves used frequently in Indian and Sri Lankan cooking. In South India, the leaves are often fried in oil and used as a condiment or garnish. decant-to pour a liquid from one vessel to another, often in order to separate liquid from sediment. deglaze-to add liquid to a pan to dissolve the flavorful brown film and bits formed from dehydrated juices when many foods are cooked at a high temperature.

deionized water-water that has been purified

equilibrium cooking-cooking with a heat

forbidden rice-especially nutritious strain

by a process in which its mineral ions are entirely removed.

source (such as a water bath for sous vide) that is at or very close to the final desired food tempera-

of Chinese black rice once reserved for royalty.

Demerara-coarse, flavorful brown sugar crys-

ture. The food is allowed to equilibrate with that

cooked, do not have the glutinous quality of

tals. The sugar originally came from the colony of Demerara, which is now part of Guyana.

temperature. essential oil-concentration of volatile aromatic

forced convection-heat transfer that occurs when a fan or pump is used to move a hot fluid

Consists of small, smooth grains that, when many Asian rice varieties.

denaturing-the unfolding of a protein, which

compounds in spices, herbs, flowers, and other

makes it nonfunctional. High and low tempera-

botanicals. Collected oils are used widely in

(such as air or water) across a food.

tures, changing pH, high salt levels, and the addi-

perfumery and are often of a grade suitable for

french-butcher's technique of cleaning and scraping away meat to expose the bone for a more

tion of solvents such as alcohol can all denature

food and cooking.

proteins.

evaporation-the change from the liquid state

elegant presentation. Lamb chops are commonly

desiccant-substance, such as silica gel, that

frenched.

readily absorbs moisture. Desiccants are used to

to the vapor (gaseous) state. extraction-the removal of material from a

keep dry food dry.

substance that contains it, such as by means of

frequency-how often a periodic event repeats within a given interval of time. For electromagnetic waves, the number of wave crests that pass

desiccate-to dry out completely.

a solvent.

diastatic malt powder-powder containing

farro-(emmer) ancient grain related to wheat

a point in a second.

the enzyme diastase that converts starches into

fresh turmeric-small, bright orange rhizome

sugars. Made from malted grains.

with a dense, chewy texture. fat-soluble-molecules that dissolve in fat.

diffusion-natural process by which heat or a

fenugreek leaves-fresh greens from a plant in

Asian markets. Peel, grate, and use in place of

of the turmeric plant available at Indian and some

substance (such as a brine) moves from a region

the pea family. Fenugreek seeds are used as a spice.

dried turmeric for a more vibrant color and pep-

of high concentration to adjacent regions oflower

The taste is bitter when raw but becomes sweeter

pery flavor. A 2.5 em I I in piece offresh turmeric

concentration, until all areas in contact are at

when cooked.

is equivalent to 10 g I I tsp of dried.

equilibrium.

fermentation-the modification of a food by the

friable-easily crumbled.

disperse-to distribute evenly, an important step when working with hydrocolloid thickeners and

deliberate growth of microorganisms in it, such

fricassee-(fricassee) a white meat preparation,

as using yeast to make wine or bread.

traditionally chicken, that is stewed in a white

gelling agents, such as agar and xanthan gum.

fermented black bean and chili paste-

gravy. Various vegetables are often incorporated,

dosa-South Indian pancake made from a lightly fermented batter of beans (urad dal) and rice. dry-blend-to evenly combine dry ingredients

commercially available. fiddlehead ferns-tender, edible coiled sprouts

before adding them to a recipe, an important step

of the fiddlehead fern. Collected in early spring. fines herbes-traditional French mix ofherbs,

and the gravy sometimes includes white wine. friction-the force resisting relative motion between two bodies in contact. fructose-sugar that is about SO% sweeter than

including fresh parsley, chervil, chives, and

sucrose (table sugar). Fructose is found in honey

tarragon; ubiquitous in French cuisine. Marjoram, cress, and lemon balm may be added.

cially available.

ment of air. Unlike the wet-bulb temperature,

fingerling potatoes-varieties of waxy, thin-

galangal-variety of ginger rhizome (root). It

humidity in the atmosphere is not a factor in the

skinned, slightly sweet potatoes that grow in long,

tastes like ginger with a little more pepper and a

measurement.

narrow oblongs resembling fingers.

light camphor aroma. Often used in Thai cooking.

dry rub-sugar or seasonings rubbed into meat

fino sherry-pale, dry Spanish fortified wine.

gauge pressure-the amount of pressure inside

to improve flavor and retain water.

fish eye-lumps formed from incomplete disper-

a pressure vessel that exceeds the ambient air

edamame-Japanese name for green soybeans, often sold in the.pod.

sion of a starch or hydrocolloid gum in water. fish sauce-see Asian fish sauce.

pressure. This is the pressure reading indicated on the gauge of the vessel.

when combining various hydrocolloid thickeners or gelling agents. dry-bulb temperature-temperature measure-

and many fruits. Granulated fructose is commer-

efficiency-the amount of useful work a device

flageolet beans-French legume with a pale

gelatinize-to convert starch or collagen into

produces during a time period, usually expressed as a fraction of the amount of energy required to

green color and a size similar to that of cannellini

gelatin or a jelly-like consistency.

or Great Northern beans. Prized for its nutty, but-

genus-species that are closely related, and thus

operate it during that period.

tery flavor and meaty texture.

emulsifier-any compound, such as sodium

flaky salt-salt crystals that grow as broad, flat

considered a group. geoduck-(king clam) a large bivalve mollusk

citrate, that helps to stabilize a mixture of two

flakes. Maldon brand sea salt is a well-known

having a very long siphon, native to the Northwest

otherwise immiscible liquids. emulsion-mixture of two normally immiscible

example. flash-to expose food to extreme hot or cold

ghee-slowly clarified unsalted butter. Used

liquids, such as oil and water.

temperatures, such as flash-freezing with liquid

prominently in Indian cooking.

energy-in physics, the capacity for doing work. enzyme-protein molecule that catalyzes chemical reactions of other substances but isn't

nitrogen or flash-frying with hot oil or in a hot pan.

gigahertz -unit of frequency indicating billion

coast ofNorthAmerica.

fluid gel-gel in which the gel structure has been

cycles per second. gigante beans-very large, flat, white dried

destroyed or altered in the process.

broken, enabling it to flow like a liquid. foam-the bubbles that compose a frothy mass.

equilibrate-to gradually attain the same level

They are formed on a liquid's surface by agitating

gluten-combination of proteins found in cereals,

as something else, such as when food equilibrates

it or by subjecting it to a chemical process. foam stabilizer-substance used to prevent foam

cohesiveness.

because of the balance between opposing forces

from dissipating. fond-French term for a dish's base or founda-

gochujang-(kochujang) salty Korean paste of fermented soybeans and chilies used as a condi-

or rates of reaction.

tion, such as a stock or broth.

ment and flavoring.

to the temperature of its environment. equilibrium-state in which no change occurs

beans. Often served as a salad or starter in Greece. notably wheat, that gives dough its characteristic

granita-flavored ice similar to sorbet but with large ice crystals that form as a result oflow sugar

immersion circulator-device that, when attached to a vessel that contains water, heats and

and dissolved solids content.

circulates the water to create a circulating bath. immiscible-resistant to mixing and tending to separate after stirring halts. Oil and water are

green mango-tart, firm mango picked before it has ripened. Can be pickled or added fresh to South Asian dishes; dried, it makes the Indian

immiscible, for example.

seasoni ng amchoor.

induction -physical phenomena in which an

green papaya-unripe papaya, a popular salad

alternating current in a coil of wire sets up an

ingredient in Southeast Asian cuisine. Sold whole

oscillating magnetic field, which in turn induces

or shredded.

corresponding electric currents in nearby conduc-

guar gum-thickener from the endosperm of guar seeds. Similar to locust bean gum. gum-polysaccharide derived from plants that

tive material. Used by induction cooktops to heat

swells when wet and can thicken or gel depending

pots and pans having bases made of certain kinds of metals, such as steel and iron. infuse -to steep or soak so that the flavors or

on various factors.

particulates dissolve into the liquid.

Hainanese chicken rice-simple chicken preparation originating in Hainan, China, that is espe-

infusion-a liquid flavored or colored by steeping a substance in it, such as brewed tea or vanilla

cially popular in Singapore and Malaysia. Poached

extract.

chicken is served with savory rice, a spicy dipping

Insta Cure #!-curing salt blend of93.7S% salt,

sauce, and a bowl of the flavorfu l poaching broth

lactic acid-the acid found in sour milk, yogurt, cheese, and m any other dairy foods. Can be used to give a preparation a dairy-like tartness. Also can be used as a coagulant for protein gels. )ardon-narrow strips of fat or bacon, frie d crisp. lecithin- the principal emulsifier in egg yolks, also found in soybeans . Most commercially available lecithin products are derived from soy. lemon balm-an herb in the mint fam ily having large, pale green leaves and a light, lemony aroma. lemon thyme-variety offresh thyme having variegated leaves and a bright, lemony aroma. lobster mushroom-large reddish-orange fungus having a firm, dense texture. Not a true mushroom, but a fungus that colonizes and alters a mushroom host; thus, t hey must come from a trusted source. lotus root- immature root from the lotus plant. More tender than a mature lotus. lovage-green, leafy plant similar to celery; long

used to cook the chicken. Often accompanied with

6.25% sodium nitrite, and safety coloring. Insta Cure #2 is different and should not be used as a

sliced cucumbers and tomatoes .

substitute.

hard water-water containing particular dissolved ions, such as magnesium or calcium salts. heat-transfer of energy due to a difference in

insulator-substance that is a poor medium for

often in savory pies. mace-frond of the dried formations that cling

conduction.

to the nutmeg seed.

Jaccard-brand name of a handheld meat tender-

temperature. Helix snails- (Helix pomatia, Burgundy snail, vineyard snail) genus of large, edible land snail.

izer containing several slender, sharp blades used

Available canned. Often baked with garlic herb butter and served as escargot. hoisin sauce-(Peki ng sauce) sweet, spicy

jus-French term for juice. The liquid that seeps out of meat during cooking. jus gras-French for "fat juice," jus gras refers to

reddish-brown Chinese sauce made from soybeans, garlic, chili peppers, and spices. homogenized-mixed with sufficient shear-

meat juice thickened or emulsified into a sauce by using fat rather than starch. kabocha squash-(Japanese pumpkin) round,

ing force to break droplets into very small sizes. Homogenizing produces a smooth mixture of two or more kinds of liquid. honey powder-granules of spray-dried honey,

sweet winter squash with green skin and bright

available at health-food stores and Asian markets. hydrate-to treat a powder so that it absorbs water fully; an important step when using hydroÂˇ colloids that renders them functional. To b e fully hydrated, most thickening and gelling agents must be dispersed evenly in a liquid and then heated above a certain temperature, which depends on

to cut through tissues. julienned-cut into thin sticks.

orange interior.

kala namak-see black salt. kalbi-(galbi) Korean word for "rib." Usually refers to sliced short ribs. Also describes a soy sauce marinade used in Korean barbecue. Kashmiri chili-long, bright red, dried chili popular in South India. Adds color and complex chili flavor without much heat. Kewpie mayonnaise-popular brand ofJapanese mayonnaise made with rice vinegar that includes

the specific hydrocolloid and nature of the liquid it is dispersed in. hydrocolloid-any substance that thickens

a small amount of monosodium glutamate for an enhanced umami taste. kinome-young leaves of the prickly ash or

or gels water or a liquid containing a significant fraction of water. Iberico ham-(jam6n iberico, Iberian ham)

sansho plant, best in the spring when the leaves are tender, with a citrus-like, bright pepper bite.

Spanish dry-cured ham made from black Iberian pigs. The most prized hams come from pigs that roam and feed naturally, often on a diet rich in olives or acorns. immersion blender-(stick blender) a handheld electric device that chops, blends, and purees food in the container in which it is being prepared.

Dried, ground leaves are also called sansho. kombu- Japanese term for dried kelp, an important ingredient in the flavor and seasoning of Japanese food. Many varieties and grades are commercially available. Kombu powder is ground dried kelp. knucklebones-the joints that connect the knee bones, usually referring to beef.

used in southern Europe as an herb or a green,

magnetron-electronic device that generates microwaves.

Maillard reaction- complex set of reactions among amino acids and sugars that creates the deep brown color and many of the essential aromas and flavors of baked, roasted, and fried foods . In cooking, the Maillard reaction usually occurs well above the boiling point of water and is therefore associated with cooking methods that use high heat. Browning due to the Maillard reacÂˇ tion is often confused with caramelizing sugar, which is unrelated. maitake-(hen of the woods) wild mushroom prized for an excellent savory flavor. Makrud lime leaves- (kaffir) aromatic leaves of a thorny bush . Often used in Thai cookery. malic acid-acid derived from apples and many other fruits. mandoline-metal or plastic manual slicer on a thin plane with an adjustable blade. MAPP gas-relatively clean- and hot-burning fuel gas made from methylacetylene and propadiene and used in kitchen blowtorches. MAPP gas is no longer available in North America, but propylene-based substitutes work as well. Propane and butane fuels are different and are not as effective for some culinary uses. Marcona almond-short, round, slightly sweet almond from Spain that is often sold fried in oil and salted . marmalade-citrus jelly with visible pieces of suspended fruit and rind. marrons glaces-French term for candied chestnuts.

VII

mas a harina-dried, powdered dough made from

n atural convection-heat t ransfer th at occurs

a paste oflye-cured corn kernels (masa). Used to make tortillas and tamales. mascarpone-fresh, very mild, thick cream cheese originally from the Lombardy region of

with in a substance such as a fluid, due on ly to fluid movement caused by density changes arising

matcha-Japa nese green tea powder made from very high-grade tea.

from heat. n eutral frying oil-any variety of cooking oil that can withstand high temperatures and adds no strong or specific flavor of its own. neutral-tasting oil-any variety of cooking oil

matzo ball soup- ] ewish soup made of chicken broth and dumplings made from unleavened

that adds no strong or specific flavor of its own. N-Zorbit-brand name that National Starch uses

dough (matzo). Traditionally served during

for tapioca maltodextrin . oefs en co cotte-eggs baked or cooked in a small casserole or dish.

Italy.

Passover. Meyer lemon-citrus cultivar thought to be a cross between a lemon and a mandarin orange. It has a thin yellow skin with a pungent citrus aroma, a slightly sweet taste, and mild acidity. m ich iu -(mijiu) Chinese fermented rice wine similar to sake. Bottles labeled as "cooking wine" have salt added to make them unpalatable so that they can be sold as an ingredient rather than a beverage in stores not licensed to sell alcoholic beverages. M icroplane-brand of kitchen rasp, used for fine grating or shaving. microwave-an electromagnetic wave with a wavelength ranging from about 0.3-30 em I 0.1-11.8 in and a frequency of 1-100 GHz. m irin-sweetJapanese rice wine similar to sake but with a lower alcohol content. Brands such as

offal-organ meats. oxid ation-a chemical reaction in which oxygen is chemically bound to a compound. Can cause color changes in foods. Pacojet-device that grinds frozen food while also blowing high-pressure air jets at it to reduce the food to extremely fine particles in order to puree, blend, or emulsify it. p alm sugar -(jaggery) unrefined, coarse sugar made from boiled, crystallized palm sap. p an cetta-Italian cured, unsmoked pork belly. Similar to bacon but often sold as thin slices from a tight roll. P anko-Japanese-style large, flaky bread crumbs. pasteurize-to heat a substance to a certain temperature for a certain amount of time to kill

as well as corn syrup and salt. m iso-Japanese fermented soybean paste used for seasoning. Available in many varieties: shiro

a prescribed fraction of any harmful organisms that may be in it. p ast is-French, anise-scented aperitif. p ast ry comb -tool with teeth; used to create even ridges and lines in pastry work.

miso is pale and mild; aka miso is a more mature red miso with a more pronounced flavor and salty

bacteria, protist, or virus.

Kikkoman Aji-Mirin are meant for cooking and not drinking and can contain 40%-50% sugar

taste. m onosodium glutam ate-(MSG) salt of an amino acid that adds savory umami taste. Naturally found in many foods, but also sold in retail markets in a form resembling table salt. mother dough -see preferment. mounting-from the French "monter" or "beurre monte." To enrich a sauce by stirring in cold pieces of butter just before serving. muscle fiber-cell that is capable of contracting and that forms muscle . mushroom gills-dark, papery ribs that hold the spores on the underside of mushroom caps; used to color sauces. myosin-muscle protein that combines with actin to form actomyosin (a complex involved in muscle contraction). Myosin constitutes half of all the protein in muscle. naan-teardrop-shaped, leavened flat bread from Northern India. Traditionally cooked in a tandoor, or clay oven.

VIII

p athogen -disease-causing agent, typically a phO'-Vietnamese beef and rice nood le soup. phosphate-salt of a phosphoric acid; used as tenderizers, preservatives, and to activate gelling agents. p h ospholipid-phosphorus-bearing fat; a principal component of animal cell walls. Piave vecchio-aged Italian cow's mi lk cheese. Piave is a younger, fresher cheese. Piave vecchio is aged and dry, similar to Parmesan. p iment6n -Spanish smoked paprika, available in sweet (dulce) and hot (picante) varieties . pin bones-intermuscular or "floating" bones that are not attached to the main skeleton of certain fish, such as salmon. They should be removed from fish fillets before cooking. p in ion -tip segment of poultry wings. piquillo p epper-firm, cone-shaped red pepper from Spain. Commonly sold in jars, packed in oil.

pomegranate seeds-see anardana. pomelo-(pommelo) giant, sem isweet citrus fruit thought to be the ancestor of the grapefruit. Native to Malaysia. p oolish -fairlywet preferment of water, flour, and active yeast cultures used as a "mother dough" in French bread making. Similar to Italian biga and American sourdo ugh . posset-delicate dessert of sweet cream thickened by coagulation. Historically, a warm, spiced, and sweetened drink of fresh milk mixed with wine orale.

potato flour-flour made from finely ground, dehydrated potatoes. p otato starch-fine powder of the starch extracted from potatoes. Used as a thickener. poule au pot-French term for "chicken in a pot" a traditional Sunday family meal of a stuffed whole chicken poached with vegetables in a flavorfu l chicken broth. precision-the fineness with which an instrument can discriminate in its measurements among

slightly different values. Note that this is not the same as accuracy.

p r eferment-(pre-ferment) living mixture of yeast, flour, and water used to create fermented bread doughs. Italian biga, French poolish, and American sourdough are all types of preferment. pressure-infuse-to use pressure to hasten the infusion process. Whipping siphons can be used to pressure-infuse herbs and spices into a marinade or coffee flavors into cream.

pressure -render-to render fats using a pressure cooker to give them a more roasted, savory flavor. primal cut-butcher's term for large sections of the whole animal. Primal cuts are then commonly cut into more familiar steaks and portions . proportiona l-integral-derivative (PID) controller -automated digital controller for accurate control of temperature, used in water baths, modern ovens, and high-end espresso machines. protein-any of a large class of complex molecules containing amino acids. Proteins are essential parts of all livings cells and of the diets of all animals. Proteins are a primary constituent of animal tissue but are also found in plants. p si-abbreviation of pounds per square inch, a measurement ofbarometric pressure. Standard atmospheric pressure at sea level is 14.7 psi. A gauge pressure of 15 psi, as in a pressure cooker, means that the interior pressure is 15 psi higher than the ambient air pressure of the surrounding atmosphere.

p olyethylene-lightweight thermoplastics that are resistant to chemicals and moisture, having good insulating properties and used especially

purslane-low, trailing succulent often used as a salad green. Has a fresh, slightly tart flavor. PVC-the most widely-produced plastic, poly-

in packaging and insulation. polyvinyl chlorid e-see PVC.

vinyl chloride.

que so fresco-( queso blanco) Latin American soft, mild white cheese. Describes a number of different varieties. quinoa-ancient, tiny, round grain originally cultivated by the Incas. Higher in protein and lower in carbohydrates than many grains. radiant heat-see radiative heating. radiation-energy that flows through a medium or space via electromagnetic waves. In cooking,

Shaoxing wine-one of the most famous Chinese rice wines, originating from the eastern province of Shaoxing; similar to dry sherry. shear-to blend or mix by stirring. shirred-baked in a small casserole or dish; often referring to eggs. shiso-Japanese term for perilla, an intensely flavored annual with jagged edges in the mint family. Widely used in Japanese sushi, sashimi,

magnetic waves.

tempura, and sa lads. shrimp paste-(belacan, gapi, kapi) fermented ground shrimp sold in blocks. An important seasoning in many South Asian dishes. Available

ramps-wild leeks, gathered in the spring; served whole or pureed. ras el hanout-North African spice blend that

Sicilian pistachios-bright green and revered for their flavor. The Italian pistachio nut is often sold

the radiation is typically infrared light. radiative heating-heating by means of energy that flows through a medium or space via electro-

can include as many as SO different ingredients. reduce-concentrate a liquid through evaporation by simmering or boiling. relative humidity-the ratio of the mass of water vapor in air to the maximum mass of water vapor

that the air could hold at that temperature. render-to separate out the fat from meat by heating it slowly. resting-cooking technique in which food that has been heated is allowed to sit for a period of time. Resting allows temperature and distribution of water (juices) to equilibrate. rice bran oil-oil extracted from the germ and inner husk of rice. Has a nutty flavor. Heat-tolerant enough to be used as a frying oil. ricotta salata-Italian white, salty cheese with a crumbly texture similar to feta . Made by salting, pressing, and aging fresh ricotta. Often made with sheep's milk. Romanesco-a pale green vegetable related to broccoli and cauliflower. It has slightly coneshaped florets and a delicate flavor. rouille-French term for rust, usually referring to a reddish mayonnaise-like sauce flavored boldly with garlic and red peppers. sake-Japanese, mildly alcoholic beverage made from polished rice. Often called rice wine, but as the drink is brewed, it is technically more similar to beer. salinity-salt concentration. San Marzano tomatoes-cultivar or type of Italian pear or plum tomato prized for its robust flavor. Most commonly available ca nned . saturated-condition in which a substance (such as a molecule or a liquid) has combined with or dissolved into another substance as much as possible. sauce soubise-a traditional French creamy onion sauce.

schmaltz-Yiddish term for chicken fat. seasoning-material added to food to add a desirable taste and/ or odor.

in many varieties and names.

sumac-dried fruit of the sumac shrub. Ground and used as a tangy, slightly astringent spice, popular in the Middle East and N alive American cuisine. Often seen sprinkled on hummus. sweat-to cook vegetables slowly in a minimal amount of fat at low temperatures so that they will soften without browning. tahini-oily paste of toasted, ground sesame seeds. tajine- (tagine) spiced Moroccan stew often served with couscous. tamarind concentrate-tangy, dark syrup made by infusing tamarind pulp with water and reducing the liquid until it resembles molasses. tamis-(drum sieve) very fine mesh cloth used as a sieve.

shelled.

tapioca maltodextrin-a modified starch derived

Silpat-name brand of a fiberglass-filled silicone

from tapioca. Unique in its ability to transform oils into powders that melt back into oils when wetted. tapioca starch-purified starch taken from the

sheet. silverskin-tough, inedible kind of connective tissue in meat. It has a silvery color. siphon-see whipping siphon . sodium citrate-the salt of citric acid . Often used as an emulsifier in reconstructed cheese products.

root known as manioc, cassava, or yuca.

tare-to reset a scale to zero by subtracting the current weight. Also means the weight of an empty container.

Used to impart a tart taste to many beverages. Also functions as a preservative. sofrito-fried mixture of oil, onions, peppers, and garlic that is considered the backbone of Latin

from grapes. Used as an acidifier and antioxidant, and sometimes to prevent crystallization in sugar syrup by converting some sucrose to noncrystal-

cooking.

lizing glucose.

solution-mixture of at least two components that are distributed in a uniform fashion to form a homogeneous whole. sorrel-herb with large flat leaves and a bright

temper-various culinary meanings include heating slowly and gently, and progressively warming a mixture by adding a hot liquid. temperature-the value of "heat" or "coldness" that determines the direction in which heat flows

lemony flavor used as a flavoring or salad green. sous vide-cooking technique in which food is usually (but not necessarily) vacuum sealed, and is then cooked at accurately controlled

tartaric acid-powdered acid most often derived

between contacting objects as measured on a relative scale, such as Celsius or Fahrenheit. Thai basil-aromatic form of basil popular in

temperatures.

Southeast Asian cuisine with small, purplish

soy lecithin-see lecithin. spatchcock-to remove the backbone of poultry so that the bird can be flattened for easy grilling,

leaves and an intense, slightly peppery flavor. More heat-tolerant than European or large-leaf

roasting, or broiling.

Thai chili-see bird's eye chili.

species-structurally similar organisms that form an interbreeding population. spider-a term used by many professional chefs

tortellini en brodo-northern Italian dish of tortellini served in a rich chicken broth .

for a long-handled flat-bowled strainer, often made with a "web n of interconnected wire.

ball of ground meat, often chicken. Commonly skewered and grilled like yakitori. turbot-large North Atlantic flatfish prized for

stage-internship completed by prospective chefs. star anise-small, brown, star-shaped pungent fruit of a Chinese and Vietnamese tree that has a flavor similar to but stronger than anise and is dried and used whole or ground as a spice, especially in Chinese cooking. steam-invisible vapor or gas phase of water. Steam is often confused with the visible fog of condensed moisture droplets. suet-very pure fat gathered from around the kidneys of lamb, cows, and other an imals.

basil.

tsukune-Japanese term for a kneaded, round

the quality of its flesh. umami-the savory taste of the amino acid glutamic acid, or its salt monosodium glutamate. Naturally occurring at high concentrations in a wide variety of foods, including milk, cheese, tomatoes, mushrooms, and especially seaweed. vacuole-in plant cells, a cavity filled with air and water.

vacuum-infused-(vacuum-impregnated) to saturate the vacuoles of a food with a flavored

whey protein isolate-concentrated whey protein that has the lactose sugar removed. Can be

liquid or water with vacuum pressure.

used as an emulsifier, foaming agent, thickener,

velveting-Chinese term for cooking technique of battering in a thin starch mixture and then flash-frying before cooking through. vindaloo-Indian term for a spicy curry dish

and gelling compound . Not to be confused with flavored whey powder. whipping siphon-device used to create foam in

originally from the Portuguese region of Goa. The sauce most often includes plenty of pepper and the added tang of vinegar and/ or dried mango

which particles of pressurized gas inserted into a liquid-filled metal tube expand into bubbles in the

skins. Often made with pork.

liquid as they leave the tube. white poppy seeds-hard, off-white seeds used in Indian, Middle Eastern, and Asian cuisine to add

viscosity-the ability of a gas or liquid to resist flowing when shear force is applied to it. vital wheat gluten-(gluten flour, gluten powder)

oil similar to olive oil can be pressed from them. white port-variety of fortified wine from Portu-

extracted, dried gluten containing two proteins, glutenin and gliadin, that together give a dough its strength and elasticity. As a commercial product, vital gluten can be used to add strength, or "bite," to noodles or to improve the texture of bread. Wagyu beef-(Wagyii) several cattle breeds of Japanese origin that yield highly marbled meat. Wagyu beef has become synonymous with prized Japanese Kobe beef. watercress-edible, slightly bitter green that has been collected from a safe water source. water-displacement method-technique for removing air from a zip-top bag by slowly immersing the partially open bag in a water bath. The water pressure squeezes the bag around the contents, and it may then be sealed with very little air inside.

water-vapor oven-oven that uses heated water vapor as well as hot air to cook. CVap, made by Winston Industries, is the best-known brand. wavelength- the distance between two points in a wave along the line of the direction in which the wave is advancing. weather-stripping tape-sticky-backed ribbons of foam often used to insulate doors and windows, available at most hardware stores. wet-bulb temperature-temperature of a wet object in equilibrium with the surrounding air. If the relative humidity of the air is less than 100%, then the wet-bulb temperature will be lower than the dry-bulb temperature because of evaporative cooling. Food exposed to air typically cooks at the wet-bulb temperature for much of its cooking time. Wet-bulb temperature is measured using a thermometer that is kept wet with a wick.

thickness, texture, and flavor to sauces. A flavorful

gal made from white grapes. Varies in flavor from dry to sweet and often with a fruitier flavor than a similar vermouth or sherry. Wondra-brand of pregelatinized wheat flour made by General Mills. Thickens without clumping or adding the "raw" taste of uncooked wheat flour. xanthan gum-thickener made from fermented carbohydrates. Works over a wide temperature and pH range, making it a versatile hydrocolloid. Xanthan-thickened sauces become thinner when stirred, and set again when allowed to settle. yakitori-Japanese term for grilled chicken, most often served as small pieces threaded on skewers. yeast-single-cell fungus used in fermenting wine and in creating the gas bubbles that cause bread to rise. yuzu-aromatic, tart, Japanese citrus fruit. Often used to make the dipping sauce ponzu. Salted yuzu

juice is called yuzu kosho.

REFERENCE TABLES

Celsius to Fahrenheit

Fahrenheit to Celsius (• c)

(•c)

("F)

Converting Temperature

82.4

- 2.2

To co nvert temperatures from Ce lsius to Fahrenh eit, multiply by 1.8, and then add 32 to the prod uct.

84.2

-1.7

86.0

-1.1

To convert from Fahrenheit to Celsius, subtract 32, and then multiply the result by 5/9 (0.56). Celsius to Fahrenheit

Fahrenheit to Celsius

87.8

- 0.6

89.6

0.0

91.4

0.6

93.2

1.1

("C)

( "F)

("F)

(• c)

95.0

1.7

-196.0

-320.8

-200.0

- 128.9

96.8

2.2

- 78.5

-109.3

- 80.0

- 62.2

98.6

2.8

100.4

3.3

102.2

3.9 4.4 5.0

- 60.0

- 76.0

- 60.0

- 51.1

- 40.0

- 20.0

-4.0

- 20.0

- 28.9

104.0

32.0

- 17.8

105.8

- 17.2

107.6

5.6

-16.7

109.4

6.1

33.8

35.6

37.4

-16.1

111.2

6.7

39.2

-15.6

113.0

7.2

41.0

-15.0

114.8

7.8

42.8

- 14.4

116.6

8.3

44.6

-13.9

118.4

8 .9

46.4

- 13.3

120.2

9.4

48.2

-12.8

122.0

10.0

50.0

-12.2

123.8

10.6

51.8

- 11.7

125.6

11.1

53.6

- 11.1

127.4

11.7

55.4

- 10.6

129.2

12.2

131.0

12.8

132.8

13.3

13.9

57.2

-10.0

59.0

- 9.4

60.8

- 8.9

134.6

62.6

- 8.3

136.4

14.4

64.4

- 7.8

138.2

15.0

66.2

- 7.2

140.0

15.6

68.0

- 6.7

141.8

16.1

69.8

- 6.1

143.6

16.7

71.6

- 5.6

145.4

17.2

73.4

-5.0

147.2

75.2

- 4.4

149.0

77.0

-3.9

150.8

- 3.3

152.6

- 2.8

154.4

20.0

Celsius to Fahrenheit

Fahrenheit to Celsius (• F)

(• c)

(• F)

(•c)

(•F)

156.2

20.6

125

257

125

51.7 54.4

158.0

21 .1

130

266

130

159.8

21.7

135

275

135

57.2

161.6

22.2

140

284

140

60.0

163.4

22.8

145

293

145

62.8

165.2

23.3

150

302

150

65.6

167.0

23.9

155

311

155

68.3

168.8

24.4

160

320

160

71.1

170.6

25.0

165

329

165

73.9

172.4

25.6

170

338

170

76.7

174.2

26.1

175

347

175

79.4

176.0

26.7

180

356

180

82.2

185

365

185

85.0

177.8

27.2

179.6

27.8

190

374

190

87.8

383

195

90.6

181.4

28.3

195

183.2

28.9

200

392

200

93.3

205

96.1

185.0

29.4

205

401

186.8

30.0

210

410

210

98.9 101.7

188.6

30.6

215

419

215

190.4

31.1

220

428

220

104.4

192.2

31.7

225

437

225

107.2

194.0

32.2

230

446

230

110.0

195.8

32.8

235

455

235

112.8

197.6

33.3

240

464

240

115.6

199.4

33.9

245

473

245

118.3

201.2

34.4

250

482

250

121.1

203.0

35.0

255

491

255

123.9

204.8

35.6

260

500

260

126.7

206.6

36.1

265

509

265

129.4

270

518

270

132.2

208.4

36.7

210.2

37.2

275

527

275

135.0

280

536

280

137.8

100

212

100

37.8

105

221

105

40.6

285

545

285

140.6

290

554

290

143.3

110

230

110

43.3

115

239

115

46.1

295

563

295

146.1

48.9

300

572

300

148.9

120

X II

Fahrenheit to Celsius

(• c)

248

120

rÂˇ

Converting Weights To convert weights from grams to ounces, divide by 28.35. To convert from ounces to grams, multiply by 28.35. Grams to ounces

(oz)

0 .1

0 .004

0.1

2.8

0 .2

0 .007

0 .2

5.7

0.3

0.011

0.3

8.5

0 .4

0.014

0 .4

11.3

0.5

0 .018

0.5

14.2

0 .6

0.021

0 .6

17.0

0.7

0.025

0.7

19.8

0.8

0.028

0 .8

22.7

0 .9

0.032

0 .9

25.5

(g)

28.4

0.035

......

1\./n: ht-

Grams to ounces

Ounces to grams

(g)

Ounces to grams (g)

(oz)

(g)

(oz)

1.587

1,275.8

1.764

1,417.5

1.940

1,559.3

2.116

1,701.0

2.293

1,842.8

2.469

1,984.5

2.646

2,126.3

2.822

2,268.0

2.998

2,409.8

3.175

2,551.5

3.351

2,693.3

100

3.527

100

2,835.0

110

3.880

110

3,118.5

120

4.233

120

3,402.0

130

4.586

130

3,685.5

0.071

56.7

0.106

85.1

140

4.938

140

3,969.0

0.141

113.4

150

5.291

150

4,252.5

0.176

141.8

160

5.644

160

4,536.0

0.212

170.1

170

5.996

170

4,819.5

0.247

198.5

180

6.349

180

5,103.0

0.282

226.8

190

6.702

190

5,386.5

0 .317

255.2

200

7.055

200

5,670.0

0 .353

283.5

250

8.818

250

7,087.5

0.388

311.9

300

10.582

300

8,505.0

0.423

340.2

350

12.346

350

9,922.5

0.459

368.6

400

14.109

400

11,340.0

0 .494

396.9

450

15.873

450

12,757.5

0.529

425.3

500

17.637

500

14,175.0

0.564

453.6

550

19.400

550

15,592.5

0 .600

482.0

600

21.164

600

17,010.0

0.635

510.3

650

22.928

650

18,427.5

0.670

538.7

700

24.691

700

19,845.0

0.705

567.0

750

26.455

750

21,262.5

0.741

595.4

800

28.219

800

22,680.0

0.776

623.7

850

29.982

850

24,097.5

0.811

652.1

900

31.746

900

25,515.0

0.847

680.4

950

33.510

950

26,932.5

0.882

708.8

1,000

35.273

1,000

28,350.0

1.058

850.5

1.235

992.3

1.411

1,134.0

pound - 453.59 g/16 oz; 1 kg = 2.21b

X II I

Common Conversion Factors To convert from:

To:

To convert from:

To:

Multiply by: 4,184

kcal

tsp

0.203

tsp

4.93

Tbsp

0.068

BTU/ h

0.001

1,055.04

kcal

0.000

Tbsp

14.787

BTU/ h

cup

0.004

0.001

745.7

cup

236.59

tsp

cup

0.021

g!cm3

oz/in3

0.578

oz/in3

g/cm 3

1.73

cup

tsp

Tbsp

cup

0.063

lb force

0.225

lbforce

4.482

cup

Tbsp

0.034

mbar

torr

0.75

mbar

1.333

29.574

torr

pint

0.5

mbar

psi

0.015

psi

mbar

68.95

psi

14.5

pint

gal

0.25

bar

gal

psi

bar

0.069

0.946

mbar

0.01

1.057

mbar

100

atm

0.987

bar

1.013

gal

0.264

bar

gal

3.785

atm

0.063

0.035

28.35

(ml)

0.002

453.592

0.028

35.274

0.454

2.2

0.394

25.4

0.394

2.54

3.3

0.305

min

0.017

BTU

0.001 1,055.10

BTU

XIV

Multiply by:

ComPlon Con ·ers· on Factor·

kcal

BTU

3.966

BTU

kcal

0.252

Converting Volume Measures Imperial u.s. Metric (pint) 1tsp 2tsp 1Tbsp 20

4tsp

2Tbsp

~cup

J/lcup

120

Y.zcup

150

~cup

180

~cup

J/3

1 cup

300

cups

480

2cups

600

2Y:z cups

1,000

4~cups

Y:z

% 21 1~

Converting Grams to Volume for Common Ingredients You can use the table below to ca lcu late the approximate volume equivalent of a certain weight of an ingredient. For thin liquids, multiply the number of ml in the rightmost co lumn by the number of grams to obtain the number of milliliters (ml). For examp le, 75 g of vinegar is about 75 x 1.16 = 87 ml. It is important to understand, however, that al l of the recipes in this book were developed and tested by we ighing the ingredie nts. We did not use vo lum e measurements, for good reason: even when using ca librated spoon and cup measures, it is nearly imposs ibl e to measure vo lum es w ith precision and accuracy. How finely the food is chopped, how firm ly it is packed, how rounding was done to get to the nearest common fraction-these facto rs and others routinely throw off vo lum e measurements by up to 15%, enough to diminish th e quality of some recipes. So we urge you to do as we do, and we igh your ingredients when cooking from this book. That sa id, we recognize that measuring vo lum es is often faster and is in any case common practice, so we converted our we ights to volumes- except for certain ingredients, such as emu lsifiers or ge lling agents, where the inherent imprecision of volume measurement can ruin a recipe. To make these vo lumes as precise as possible, we ca lcu lated the vo lu mes ofthin

liquids from their densities. For thick liquid s and dry ingredients, we scooped the ingredient and then leve led it with a stra ight edge. All vo lum es have been rounded to the nearest measures that are avai lab le from kitchen-supply stores, including half tablespoons, thirds or eighths of cups, and eighths of teaspoons. Metric vo lum es were round ed to the nearest 1 ml for vo lum es up to 10 ml, to 5 ml for volumes up to 100 ml, and to the nearest 10 ml or 25 ml above that. Due to the effects of round ing, you may notice that, say, 20 m l is paired with 3Y2 tsp in one recipe, but in another the vo lum e give n is 20 mL / lY2 Tbsp. Th at ca n happen ifthe co nvers ion from the we ight resu lted in 17.7 ml (rounded to 20 ml) in the first case but produced 22.2 ml (a lso rounded to 20 ml) in the second. When converted to spoon measures, 17.7 ml and 22.2 ml yield different equivalents. If you see 4 Tbsp give n for a dry ingredient and wonder why we did not simply write 1}1 cup, it is because the two are not actual ly the same for ingred ients, such as flours, th at become packed down at greate r vo lum es . Try it yourse lf: meas ure 1/1 cup of flour, and then remove four leve l tablespoons, one at a time. You ' ll find that there is sti ll flour left in the cu p measure when you are done. To avo id such comp lexity, we igh the ingred ients.

COMMON LIQUIDS

25g

100 g

450g

Equivalents

Water, stock, broth, and jus

1 ml/Y. tsp

5 ml / 1 tsp

25 ml / 5tsp

100 ml /:Y. cup

450 ml / 2 cups

1 g=1.0 ml

Wine, vermouth, sake, and beer

1 ml/Y. tsp

5 ml / 1 tsp

25 ml /5tsp

100ml/:Y. cup

450 ml / 2 cups

1 g =1.0 ml

Thin fruit and vegetable juices, such as apple, lemon, and carrot

1 ml /Y. tsp

5 ml/1 tsp

25 ml /5tsp

100 ml / :Y. cup

450 ml / 2 cups

1 g=1.0 ml

1 ml /Y. tsp

6 ml / 1 tsp

30ml/2Tbsp

120 ml / y, cup

525 ml / 2Y. cups

1 g=1.16 ml

6 ml / 1Y2 tsp

30ml/2Tbsp

125 ml/ Y, cup

560 ml / 2:Y. cups

1 g =1.25 ml 1 g=0.84ml

Liquor, such as bourbon or vodka 1 ml /Y. tsp

4 ml /ÂĽo tsp

20 ml/ 4Y. tsp

85 ml /Y, cup

380 ml /lo/o cups

1 ml /Y. tsp

5 ml/1 tsp

30 ml /5tsp

110 ml / Y2 cup

490 ml / 2 cups

Refined oils, such canola, soy, vegetable, and com oil

1 ml /Y. tsp

5 ml / 1 tsp

25ml/2Tbsp

110 ml /Y, cup

490 ml / 2 cups

1 g=1.08 ml

Cold-pressed oils, such as olive, grapeseed, nut, and sesame oil

1 ml / Yo tsp

6 ml / 1Y. tsp

30ml/2Tbsp

110 ml / Y, cup

500 ml / 2Y. cups

1 g =1.11 ml

Melted fats and butters

1 ml / Yo tsp

6 ml / 1Y. tsp

30 ml/2Tbsp

110 ml / Y, cup

500 ml / 2Yo cups

1 g=1.11 ml

Solid fats and butters

Yo tsp

1Y, tsp

2Y, Tbsp

Y, cup

2cups

1 ml /Y. tsp

OILS AND FATS

DAIRY PRODUCTS

25g

100g

450g

Equivalents

Whole milk

1 ml /14 tsp

5 ml / 1 tsp

25 ml / 2Tbsp

100 ml /% cup

460 ml / 2 cups

1 g =1.03ml

Heavy cream

1 ml / 14 tsp

6 ml / 114 tsp

30ml/ 2Tbsp

110 ml / Y, cup

495 ml / 2 cups

1 g =1.1 ml

Creme fraiche, sour cream

114 tsp

2Tbsp

% cup

1Y, cups

Dry cheeses, such as Parmesan and Romano, finely grated and packed

5tsp

6Tbsp

2 cups

7cups

1 cup =60 g

Semisoft cheeses, such as Gruyere, cheddar, and Gouda, shredded

1 Tbsp

Y> cup

1¥> cup

6Y, cups

1cup =67g

Soft cheeses, such as cream cheese, mascarpone, and chevre

1 tsp

5tsp

Y, cup

1JI> cups

1 cup=230 g

Dry cheeses, such as blue cheese and feta, finely crumbled

Yz Tbsp

2Y, Tbsp

~ cup

3~ cups

1 cup =115 g

Whole eggs, blended

114 tsp

1Yz Tbsp

7Tbsp

45geach

Egg whites, blended

114 tsp

1Y, Tbsp

7Tbsp

30geach

Egg yolks, blended

114 tsp

lYzTbsp

6Y, Tbsp

15 geach

EGGS (chicken, U.S. size large)

PANTRY ITEMS (scoop to fill the measure, and then level it by using a straightedge) Salt, kosher(" salt" in our recipes) 14 tsp Salt, fine sea salt

Y• tsp

114 tsp

2Y, Tbsp

~ tsp

5tsp

1 tsp =4g 1 tsp =5.5 g

Sugar, granulated white

14 tsp

Yz Tbsp

2Y, Tbsp

Y, cup

Sugar, powdered

y, tsp

2Yz tsp

4Tbsp

1 cup

2 tsp

3Tbsp

~ cup

Sugar, grated palm

2% cups

1 cup=202g

Finely ground spices, such as cinnamon, coriander, and paprika

Yztsp

2Yz tsp

3Tbsp

1 tsp=2 g

Chili flakes

Yz tsp

1 Tbsp

5Tbsp

1 tsp =2.25 g 1g

Vanilla seeds, scraped from 1 large, moist bean

1 cup=115 g

All-purpose flour

1Tbsp

4Tbsp

~ cup

3\-il cups

00 wheat flour

2tsp

3Tbsp

~ cup

3Y, cups

Whole wheat flour

2Y, tsp

3Tbsp

~ cup

3\-8 cups

Masa harina

2tsp

3Tbsp

~ cup

3Y, cups

Wondra

1JI> tsp

3Y, Tbsp

~ cup

1 Tbsp =10 g

1 Tbsp

4Tbsp

~ cup

1Tbsp=5g

1Y, Tbsp

Vital wheat gluten Baking soda

14 tsp

1 tsp

Gelatin, Knox's powdered

14 tsp

114 tsp

1 tsp =5 g 1envelope =7 g 1 sheet= 2.5 g

Gelatin sheets, silver (160 Bloom) Yeast, instant dry

14 tsp

114 tsp

5tsp

Whole coffee beans

9-12 beans

1Tbsp

Yl CUp

Dry macaroni, small elbow Coarse-ground cornmeal, polenta, and com grits

XVI

1 cup =130 g

2Y, Tbsp

1envelope=7g 1cup=67g

1JI> cups ~ cup

3~ cups

1cup=125g

~ cup

3cups

1 cup a164 g

XVII

Scallions, green parts only, thinly sliced (1 mm)

lV> Tbsp

y, cup

Scallions, white parts only, thinly sliced (1 mm)

2Y, tsp

',4 cup

Fresh tomatoes, peeled, seeded, and diced

Stsp

Y, cup

Canned tomatoes, crushed

5 tsp

h cup

XVIII

SOURCES Where to Buy Meat Purveyor

Address

Phone

Website

Products

Heritage Meats

18241 Pendleton St. SW Rochester, WA 98579

360-273-2202

heritagemeatswa.com

beef, veal

Kapowsin Meats, Inc.

29401118th Ave. E Graham, WA 98338

253-847-1777

pork

Mad Hatcher Farms

1437DSt.SW Ephrata, WA 98823

509-237-1351

poularde, pigeon, rabbit

Stokesberry Sustainable Farm

7429 85th lane SE Olympia, WA 98513

360-485-2558

stokesberrysustainablefarm.com

chickens, roosters

Petaluma, CA 94952 Zoe's Meats ~--------------------

707-763-9637

zoesmeats.com

meats

Phone

Website

Products

Where to Buy Seafood Purveyor

Address -----------------------------

Browne Trading Company

Merrill's Wharf 260 Commercial St. Portland, ME 04101

800-944-7848

brownetrading.com

caviar, other seafood

Taylor Shellfish Farms, Inc.

130 SE Lynch Rd. Shelton, WA 98584

360-426-6178

taylorshellfishfarms.com

shellfish, geoduck

True World Foods

24 Link Dr. Rockeleigh, NJ 07647

201-750-0024

trueworldfoods.com

shellfish, sashimi-grade fish, other seafood

Where to Buy Produce Purveyor

Address

Phone

Website

Products

The Chefs Garden

9009 Huron-Avery Rd. Huron, OH 44839

800-289-4644

chefs-garden.com

microgreens

866-951-1031

foragedandfoundedibles.com

foraged mushrooms, other produce

425-333-4677

fullcircle.com

organic produce

866-862-9866

mikuniwildharvest.com

foraged mushrooms, other produce, fish and seafood, oils and vinegars, truffles

800-995-7776

sungrownorganics.com

microgreens

Foraged & Found Edibles Full Circle Farm

31904 NE Eighth St. Carnation, WA 98014

Mikuni Wild Harvest

Sun Grown Organic Distributors

San Diego, CA

Where to Buy Spices and Seasonings Purveyor

Address

Phone

Website

Products

L'Epicerie

106 Ferris St. Brooklyn, NY 11231

866-350-7575

lepicerie.com

salts, vinegars, essential oils

HMart

various locations

800-648-0980

hmart.com

Korean and international ingredients and specialty foods

My Spice Sage

5774 Mosholu Ave. Bronx, NY10471

877-890-5244

myspicesage.com

herbs, spices, and tea

Penzeys

12001 W. Capitol Drive Wauwatusa, Wl53222

800-741-7787

penzeys.com

herbs, spices, and spice mixes

XIX

Where to Buy Equipment Address

Phone

Website

Products

1756 Automation Pkwy. San Jose, CA 95131

408-263-5333

andweighing.com

scales

8415 N. Clinton Park Fort Wayne, IN 46825

800-210-5907

accutemp.net

Accu-Steam griddle

\o\erolatte

2 Codicote Rd. Welwyn Al6 9N8 United Kingdom

(+441 845 an 4954

aerolatte.com

aerolatte

Berkel, Co.

701 S. Ridge Ave. Troy, OH 45374

800-348-0251

berkelequipment.com

slicer

Biro Manufacturing, Co.

1114 W. Main St. Marblehead, OH 43440

419-798-4451

birosaw.com

meat grinder

Cambro

5801 Skylab Rd. Huntington Beach, CA 92647

800-833-3003

cambro. com

food storage

Carpigiani Corp. of North America

3760 Industrial Dr. Winston-Salem, NC 2n07

336-661-9893

carpigiani.com

ice-cream machine

Champion Juicer I Plastaket Mfg. Co.

6220 E. Highway 12 lodi, CA 95240

866-935-8423

championjuicer.com

juicer

Corning

Tower 2, Fourth Floor 900 Chelmsford St. lowell, MA 01851

800-492-1110

coming.com

hot plates; Pyrex beakers

Cuisinart

150 Milford Rd. East Windsor, NJ 08520

800-726-0190

cuisinart.com

food processor

Drummond Scientific Co.

500 Pkwy., Box 700 Broomall, PA 19008

800-523-7480

drummondsci.com

calibrated pipettes

Fisher Scientific

300 Industry Dr. Pittsburgh, PA 15275

800-766-7000

fishersci.com

water bath

Fluke Corp.

6920 Seaway Blvd. Everett, WA 98203

425-347-6100

us.tluke.com

thermometers

Hamilton Beach Brands, Inc.

261 Yadkin Rd. Southern Pines, NC 28387

800-851-8900

hamiltonbeach.com

milk shake blender

Hanna Instruments, Inc.

270 George Washington Hwy. Smithfield, Rl 02917

800-426-6287

hannainst.com

pH meter

Henkelman BV

PO Box2117 5202 CC's-Hertogenbosch Netherlands

(+311 73 62136 n

henkelman.com

vacuum sealer

Hi-Tech Vacuum, Inc.

1445A,RR5 Saint-Cyrille-de Wendover Quebec JlZ 1S5 Canada

819-397-4888

hitechvacuum.com

vacuum sealer

Hualian Packaging Machines; dist. by Sealer Sales

18327 Sherman Way Reseda, CA 91335

818-705-0203

sealersales.com

strip sealer

iSi North America, Inc.

175 Route 46 W. Fairfield, NJ 07004

973-227-2426

isinorthamerica.com

siphons

lwatani Group

2050 Center Ave., Suite 425 Fort lee, NJ 07024

201-585-2442

iwatani.com

induction burner

JB Prince

36 E. 31st St. New York, NY 10016

800-473-0577

jbprince.com

books; kitchen utensils

Julabo USA

884 Marcon Blvd. Allentown, PA 18109

610-231-0250

julabo.de

cooling bath

Kuhn Rikon

Neschwilerstrasse 4 CH-8486 Rikon Switzerland

(+41) 52 396 01 01

kuhnrikon.ch

pressure cookers

Purveyor

Address

Labline Scientific Instruments C/108 Maruti Darshan Hanuman Chowk LT. Road, Mulund (East) Mumbai 400 081 Maharashtra, India

Phone

Website

Products

(+91) 22 216 33671

labline.in

water bath

Lenox

301 Chestnut St. E. Longmeadow, MA 01028

413-525-3961

lenoxtools.com

MAPP gas torches

LISS America

106 Skyline Dr. S. Plainfield, NJ 07080

908-222-1015

liss-america.com

nitrous and carbon dioxide chargers

Mettler Toledo, Inc.

1900 Polaris Parkway Columbus, OH 43240

800-METTLER

mt.com

scales

Microplane

614SR247 Russelville, AR 72802

800-555-2767

microplane.com

microplanes

Moschetti, Inc.

11 Sixth St. Vallejo, CA 94590

800-556-4414

moschetti.com

pasta machine

PacojetAG

Bundesstrasse 7 CH-6300 Zug Switzerland

(+41) 41 710 2522

pacojet.com

Pacojet

PolyScience

6600 W Touhy Ave. Niles, IL 60714

800-229-7569

cuisinetechnology.com

circulators

Rational I Akro Ltd.

85 Gregory Rd . Mildenhall, Suffolk IP287DF United Kingdom

(+44) 1638 712 522

rational-ovens.co.uk

combioven

Sartorius AG

Weender Landstrasse 94-108 D-37075 Goettingen Germany

(+49)5513080

sartorius.com

scales

Sunpentown

14625 Clark Ave. City of Industry, CA 91745

800-330-0388

sunpentown.com

induction burner

Taylor Company

750 N. Blackhawk Blvd. Rockton, IL 61072

800-255-0626

taylor-company.com

ice-cream machine

Thermo Fisher Scientific

81 Wyman St. Waltham, MA 02454

781-622-1000

thermofisher.com

water bath

Thermo Sensors Corp.

PO Box 461947 Garland, TX 75046

800-889-5478

thermosensors.com

thermocouples

UK Thermomix

Thorp Building Whitmore Lane Sunningdale Berkshire SLS ONS United Kingdom

(+44) 1344 622 344

ukthermomix.com

Thermomix blender

Viking Range Corp.

111 Front St. Greenwood, MS 38930

662-455-1200

vikingrange.com

mixer

Vita-Mix Corp.

8615 Usher Rd. Cleveland, OH 44138

800-437-4654

vitamix.com

Vita-Prep blender

The Vollrath Co.

1236 N. 18th St. Sheboygan,WI53081

800-624-2051

vollrathco.com

cookware

VWR International

Radnor Corporate Center Building One, Ste. 200 100 Matsonford Rd, POBox6660 Radnor, PA 19087

610-386-1700

vwrsp.com

water bath

Waring Commercial

314 Ella T. Grasso Ave. Torrington, CT 06790

800-492-7464

waringproducts.com

deep fryer

Winston Industries

2345 Carton Dr. Louisville, KY 40299

800-234-5286

winstonind.com

CVap; pressure fryer

XXI

Scientific Ingredients Ingredient

Local Sourcing

North America

Europe

Notes

agar (agar agar)

widely available at Asian and specialty food markets, health-food stores, gourmet supermarkets

chefrubber.com le-sanctuaire.com iherb.com

msk-ingredients.com infusions4chefs.co.uk solegraells.com

Powder or granules are preferred. Flakes or strips can be ground into powder. Avoid colored sticks and sweetened agar dessert powders.

kingarthurllour.com chefrubber.com lepicerie.com modemistpantry.com

sosa.cat infusions4chefs.co.uk solegraells.com

Pure albumin is preferred.

chefrubber.com cheesemaking.com bulkfoods.com

solegraells.com infusions4chefs.co.uk msk-ingredients.com

Powder or granules are preferred. Liquid is available from cheesemaking suppliers. Calcium lactate and calcium lactate gluconate work similarly.

modemistpantry.com chefrubber.com le-sanctuaire.com

solegraells.com infusions4chefs.co.uk

Iota type creates soft, elastic gels. Kappa type creates firm, brittle gels. Lambda type thickens without gelling.

chefrubber.com lepicerie.com le-sanctuaire.com iherb.com

infusions4chefs.co.uk msk-ingredients.com solegraells.com

widely available at supermarkets, albumin powder (powdered egg whites, health-food stores, cake decorating and craft shops egg white powder, meringue powder) calcium chloride (Pickle Crisp: Ball brand; Calcic: Texturas brand)

often available where pickling or cheese-making supplies are sold; ask local cheese makers

carrageenan

citric acid (sour salt)

widely available at gourmet/ specialty food stores, healthfood and supplement stores, and where kosherfoods and canning/ preserving supplies are sold

diastatic malt powder widely available; ask at bakeries (diastatic malt enzyme, and brewing-supply stores diastatic malt flour)

Products labeled nondiastatic have no active enzymes and are used for flavoring only. Brewers measure enzyme strength in degrees Lintner ( L).

kingarthurllour.com chefrubber.com

essential oils

essentialoil.com widely available at herbal and natural medicine shops; ask at pastry iherb.com lepicerie.com shops, spas, aromatherapists, and soap makers

freeze-dried fruits and vegetables

widely available at supermarkets, health-food stores, and outlets selling survival goods; check at camping and outdoor stores

gelatin

Knox's instant gelatin is available at chefrubber.com modemistpantry.com supermarkets. Sheet gelatin can be found at specialty food markets and pastrychef.com import stores; ask at pastry shops and bakeries, and confirm the Bloom strength before using

honey powder (powdered honey, honey granules)

widely available at Asian markets and chefrubber.com modemistpantry.com health-food stores

XX II

chefrubber.com justtomatoes.com lepicerie.com

solegraells.com sosa. cat

Organic, 100% pure, and food-grade oils are preferred.

infusions4chefs.co.uk lyofood.com sosa.cat

Buy whole fruits and vegetables and grind into powders as needed for best results. Spraydried juice powders are also useful, but often contain additional ingredients and may not be as flavorful.

infusions4chefs.co.uk msk-ingredients.com sosa.cat

Strengths vary greatly. Knox's instant gelatin and silver sheets (160 Bloom) are most common. Industrial strength gelatins and gelatins made specifically for fish, beef, or pork are sold by chefrubber.com. Honey powders may include cane juice, agave syrup, and stabilizers. Check the label if you have a preference.

North America

Europe

Notes

Ingredient

Local Sourcing

lnsta Cure #1 (Prague powder #1)

sausagemaker.com widely available where sausagemaking supplies are sold; also try sporting goods/ outdoor stores that cater to hunters, or ask your butcher

liquid soy lecithin

available at health-food stores and some soap- and candle-making suppliers

iherb.com lepicerie.com modernistpantry.com

malic acid

ask at brewing- and wine-making supply stores; also try health-food and supplement stores.

lepicerie.com modernistpantry.com chefrubber.com

infusions4chefs.co.uk

le-sanctuaire.com modernistpantry.com chefrubber.com

infusions4chefs.co.uk

bobsredmill.com kingarthurflour.com

toutelabio.com

The terms flour and starch are often used interchangeably, but the products can differ greatly. Review ingredients listed on the packaging for clarification.

tapioca maltodextrin (N-Zorbit: National Starch brand)

modernistpantry.com lepicerie.com le-sanctuaire.com

msk-ingredients.com

Sold as fine, very light flakes or powder. Tapioca maltodextrin is different from tapioca starch and maltodextrin.

Ultra-Sperse 3

modernistpantry.com willpowder.com le-sanctuaire.com

sodium citrate (Citras: Texturas brand) specialty flours and starches

widely available at gourmet supermarkets, international markets, and natural foods stores

vital wheat gluten

available at supermarkets and health-food stores; ask at bakeries and vegetarian restaurants

bobsredmill.com kingarthurflour.com

whey protein isolate

available at health-food and supplement stores, and at stores specializing in sports nutrition

iherb.com bulkfoods.com

Wondra (Robin Hood Easy Blend flour)

widely available at supermarkets

xanthangum (Xantana: Texturas brand; Bob's Red Mill brand)

widely available at natural foods markets and health-food stores

lnsta Cure #2 contains additional sodium nitrate and should not be used as a substitution. Do not confuse with powdered soy lecithin or lecithin powders used for making light foams.

Avoid capsules and tablets, as they often include additional, unnecessary ingredients.

toutelabio.com

Most commonly sold in large tubs. Avoid flavored or sweetened whey protein powders or pure powdered whey. Avoid instant thickening flours or â&#x20AC;˘gravy granulesâ&#x20AC;˘ made of potato starch; they are not interchangeable.

bobsredmill.com chefrubber.com iherb.com

infusions4chefs.co.uk msk-ingredients.com

Always measure carefully to avoid gumminess.

XX III

CONTRIBUTORS

Maxime Bilet

Nathan Myhrvold

E t1;j ~

>....

t1;j

c: :::::1

U ~~--~~--L-----~ Grant Lee Crilly

Anjana Shanker

Johnny Zhu

Sam Fahey-Burke

Developmental chef

Chris Love

Aaron Verzosa

Kimberly Schaub

Jonathan Biderman

Cutaway machinist

Developmental chef

Developmental ch e f

Culinary reviewer

Other contributors: Ryan Matthew Smith, Alexandra Nickerson, Krysta nne Casey, larry Lofthouse, Aaron Shattuck, Richard Sherman, Ted Ellis, Mike Vinton, Amy Hatch

XX I V

E rt:l

~ f;,;:c;r,...;~ rt:l

Âˇ;::

"0 u.J

Wayt Gibbs

Tracy Cutchlow

Mark Clemens

Jen nifer Sugde n

Editor in chief

Managing editor

Art director

Production manager

Carrie Wicks

Susan Vo lland

Dan iel McCoy

Judy O ldfield-Wilson

Copy editor

Recipe tester and editor

Editorial assistant

Online writer

E rt:l

....00

..c c..

Me lissa Lehuta

Ch ris Hoover

Stephan ie Billmayer

Tyson Stole

lead photographer

Photo editor

Assistant photo editor

Photographer

Bruce Harris

Mark Pea rson

Ca rrie Bachman

Scott Heimendinger

Publishing consultant

Publicist

Business development manager

XXV

ACIZNOWL EDGMENTS The authors would like to acknowledge the generous contributions

support, and valuable assistance of the people and companies listed

of the many companies and individuals who supported the effort

here. Of course, any errors that remain in the final product are the

to create this book. In addition to those mentioned in the contribu-

responsibility of the authors alone.

tors section above, we benefited from the expertise, advice, material

Individuals Providing Expertise and Advice

Companies Providing Equipment

John Bail ey, Sh elby Barn es, Kim Christiansen, Lee Di cks Guice, Gary Hawkey, Claudia Leschu ck

Chef Rubber, CookTek, El ectro lux, Fresh M ea ls Soluti ons, Gaggenau, iSi, Kuhn Rikon, Mikuni Wild Harvest, Omni, Pacoj et, Polyscie nce, Rationale, Robinson Laser, SousVide Supreme, Taylor Sh ellfish, Terra Spice, Viking. Vitamix, Vollrath, Winsto n Industries

Photo Credits Position indicators: t = top, m = middle. b = bottom. I = left. c = center. r = right. u =upper, L= lower

Covers and Endpapers Melissa Lehuta: front cover. front endpaper, back inside endpaper Nathan Myhrvold: back cover Ryan Smith: front inside endpaper, back endpaper

Front Matter Scott Duncan/Martha Stewart Living Omnimedia, Inc.: xii Deborah Jones: xiii Melissa Lehuta: xiv-xvi; xxii Ryan Smith: xxiv-xxv

Chapter 1: Countertop Tools Melissa Lehuta: 02-03; 06: I; 07: ur; 08-10; 11: ul. uc. ur. Lr; 12; 14: Lr; 15: Lc; 16-17; 18: I, lc, rc, r; 20: I, ur; 21 Nathan Myhrvold: 04-05; 06: r Ryan Smith: 05: b; 11: Ll; 13; 14: ur, Ll; 15: ul, Ll, Lr; 18: b; 19; 20: Lr Tyson Stole: 07: ul, Ll, Lc, Lr

Chapter 2: Conventional Cook ing Gear Chris Hoover: 45; 46 Melissa Lehuta: 22-23; 24: r; 25; 27: ul. uc. Ll, Lc, Lr; 29; 32: ul, ur. mi. me. mr; 33-34; 35: r; 36-38; 39: ul, ur, Ll, Lr; 41: ul, Ll, Lc;

44 Ryan Smith: 22: b; 24: I; 28; 32: Ll, Lr; 39: b; 40; 41: Lr; 42-43; 45-46 Tyson Stole: 27: ur; 30-31; 35: I. c; 41: uc, ur; 42-43; 47

XXVI

Chapter 3: Cooking So us Vide Chris Hoover: 51: uc; 64: I Melissa Lehuta: 48-49; 51: ul. ur. Ll. Lr; 53: ur; 59: ml, mr, Ll, Lr; 60; 63: t; 64: r; 66; 67: Ll Nathan Myhrvold: 54-55 Ryan Smith: 49: t. b; 53: ul, uc, Ll, Lc, Lr; 54: ur, Ll; 57: ul. mi. Lr; 61-62; 64: b; 65: ur, b Tyson Stole: 50; 52; 56; 57: uc, ur, me, mr, Ll, Lc; 58; 59: ul. uc, ur; 63: m, b; 65: Ll;

67: ul. ur. m. Lr

Chapter 4: Ingredients Melissa Lehuta: 70-71; 72: ul. Lr; 73: ul, Ll; 74; 75; ul, ur, Ll; 76-77; 79 Nathan Myhrvold: 68-69 Ryan Smith: 69: b; 72: ur; 73: ur. Lr, b Tyson Stole: 69: r; 72: Ll; 75: Lr; 78 Chef Rubber: 72: b

Chapter 5: Basics Chris Hoover: 91: r; 102; 103: t; 112: t; 116: t; 121: Lr; 135; 139: t Melissa Lehuta: 82-83; 85; 87: ul, ur, Ll, Lc; 90: uc. ur. Ll; 91: ul. urn, Ll. Lm; 92-93; 96; 98: Lc, Lr, b; 99: t, Ll; 100-101; 103: I. c. r; 104-107; 109; 111; 112: I, c, r; 113: ul, uc, ur. Lr; 118; 120; 121: ul. ur. Ll. Lc; 122; 123: I; 124-127; 128: ul. uc. ur; 130-134; 136: I. uc. Lc; 137: ul, uc, Ll, Lc; 139: b Ryan Smith: 84; 86; 87: Lr; 88-89; 90: ul; 94; 97; 114-115; 116: b; 119: Ll; 123: c. r; 128: Ll, Lr; 129; 137: r Tyson Stole: 95; 98: ul, uc, ur, Ll; 99: ul, uml, Loml; 108; 110; 113: ml, me, mr, Ll; 117; 119: ul, uc, ur, ml, mr; 136: r

Chapter 6: Breakfast Eggs

Chapter 10: Cheeseburger

Chris Hoover: 140-141; 145; 151: b Melissa Lehuta: 144: uc. ur. Ll; 147: ur, Ll, Lr; 149-150; 151: r; 152-153 Nathan Myhrvold: 149: Ll Ryan Smith: 141: b; 142-143; 144: ul, Lr; 146; 147: ul, uc Tyson Stole: 151: I. c

Melissa Lehuta: 207-210; 211: ul, uc, ur. mi. me. mr, Ll; 212: ur, Lr; 213-214; 215: me, mr Ryan Smith: 204-205; 205: b; 206 Tyson Stole: 211: Lr; 212: ul. uc. mi. Ll; Lr; 215: ul, ur, ml, Lr, b

Chapter 7: Sa lads and Co ld Soups Chris Hoover: 154-155; 166-167 Melissa Lehuta: 156-160; 162: b; 163-164; 165: I. c. r; 167: t. ur; 168: r; 169: ul; 170-175 Ryan Smith: 155: b; 162: t; 166: b Tyson Stole: 161; 165: b; 167: Lr; 168: I; 169: uc, ur, b

Chapter 8: PressureCooked Vegetable Soups Melissa Lehuta: 180-181 Nathan Myhrvold: 176-177; 179: b Ryan Smith: 176: b; 178; 179: ul, uc, ur, Lm; 182-183; 184: I. c, r; 185 Tyson Stole: 184: b

Chapter 9: Steak Chris Hoover: 189: Lr; 202: r Melissa Lehuta: 188: ul, Ll; 189: ul, buc, ml, Ll, Lc; 191: ur. b; 192; 193: ul. ur, ml, mlc, mrc, Ll, Lie, Lrc; 194; 195: ul. uc. ur, b;

196-200; 201: ul, ml, b; 203 Nathan Myhrvold: 186-187; 190: b; 191: ul Ryan Smith: 187: b; 188: uc. ur; 189: tuc, ur, mr; 190: ul, uc, ur Tyson Stole: 193: mr. Lr; 195: m; 201: uc, ur, mr; 202: I Carol Zuber-Mallison: 188: Lr (diagram)

Chapter 11: Carnitas Melissa Lehuta: 218: I, c. r; 219: ul, uc, ur, Lc; 220-221; 222: ul, ur, Lr; 223-225 Ryan Smith: 217: b Tyson Stole: 216-217; 218: b; 219: Lr, b;

222: Ll

Chapter 12: Braised Short Ribs Melissa Lehuta: 230; 231: ul, ur, mi. mr, Ll, Lr; 232-233; 235 Nathan Myhrvold: 226-227 Ryan Smith: 228-229; 231: b; 234

Chapter 13: Roast Chicken Melissa Lehuta: 236-237; 238-240; 241: Ll, Lr; 242-243; 246: Lr, b; 247 Ryan Smith: 237: b Tyson Stole: 241: ul. ur, m; 243: Lc; 244245; 246: ul. uc. ur

Chapter14: Chicken W ings Melissa Lehuta: 250: I, r; 251-257; 262-263 Nathan Myhrvold: 248-249; 258-261 Ryan Smith: 249: b Tyson Stole: 250: c

Chapter 15: Chicken Nood le Soup Chris Hoover: 264-265 Melissa Lehuta: 267; 269: ur. Lr. Ll; 270-271 Ryan Smith: 265: b; 268: r; 269: ul, uc; 273 Tyson Stole: 266; 268: I. c; 272

Chapter 16: Salmon

Chapter 19: Mac and Cheese

Melissa Lehuta: 279; 280: Ll, Lr; 281 Nathan Myhrvold: 274-275 Ryan Smith: 275: b; 276; 277: ur, ml, me, mr, Ll, Lr; 278: ul, uc, ur, Ll; 280: t Tyson Stole: 277: ul, uc; 278: Lc, Lr

Chris Hoover: 308-309; 309: r; 318-319 Melissa Lehuta: 311: b; 312; 315-319 Nathan Myhrvold: 308-309 Ryan Smith: 309: b; 311: ul, uc, ur, Ll, Lc, Lr; 313 Tyson Stole: 310; 314

Chapter 17: Shellfish Chris Hoover: 284; 285: ul. uc, ur, mi. me, mr,LI Melissa Lehuta: 285: Lr; 286; 287: ul. uc, ur, mi. me, Ll; 290-292 Ryan Smith: 282-283; 283: c; 288; 289: ul, ur, ml, mr, Ll; 293: Ll Tyson Stole: 287: Lr; 289: me, Lr; 293: ul, uc, ur, Lr

Chapter 18: Pizza Chris Hoover: 294-295; 306-307 Melissa Lehuta: 296-303; 304: I; 305 Ryan Smith: 295: b Tyson Stole: 304: c, r

Chapter 20: Risotto and Pael la Melissa Lehuta: 320-323; 324-325; 328-333 Ryan Smith: 321: b; 326-327

Chapter 21: Cornmeal Melissa Lehuta: 334-335; 336; 337: ul, uc, ur; 338: I; 339: ul. uc, ur, mi. mr; 340-341 Nathan Myhrvold: 334-335 Ryan Smith: 335: b; 337: ml, Ll, Lr Tyson Stole: 338: r; 339: Ll, Lr

Chapter 22: Dishes for the Microwave Melissa Lehuta: 344: c. r; 345: ul, uc, ur, ml, mr, Ll; 347-348; 349: Ll, Lr; 351; 354355; 357: m, b Ryan Smith: 342-343 Tyson Stole: 344: I; 345: Lr, b; 346; 349: ul, uc; ur, m; 350; 352-353; 356; 357: ul, uc, ur

Chapter 23: Custards and Pies Melissa Lehuta: 358-359; 360: ul, uc, ur, Lc; 361-363; 364: uc; 365: Lr, b; 366: b; 367: ul; 368-370; 371: ul, uc, ml, Ll; 372375; 376: ur, mr, Lr; 377; 378: ul, Ll, Lr; 379:ul. Ll Nathan Myhrvold: 358-359 Ryan Smith: 359: b Tyson Stole: 360: Ll, Lr; 364: ul, ur, Ll, Lr; 365: ul, ur, Ll; 366: t; 367: uc, ur, ml, me, mr, b; 371: r; 376: mi. Ll; 378: ur; 379: ur, Lr

Contributors Stephanie Billmayer: ulc Melissa Lehuta: XXIV: ul, ur, mrc, Ll, Lrc, Lr; XXV: ul, urc, ur, uml, umrc, umr, Lml. Lmlc, Lmrc, Lmr, Lie, Lr Lou Manna: XXV: Lrc Ryan Smith: XXIV: ml, mlc, mr; XXV: umlc Aaron Verzosa: XXIV: Lie Rosemary Harris: XXV: Ll

Kitchen Manual Nathan Myhrvold: back cover Tyson Stole: back inside cover Melissa Lehuta: front cover, front inside cover

STEP BY STEP PROCEDURES AND TABLES OF BEST BETS How To How to Scale a Recipe

How to Make Clarified Butter and Brown Butter

How to Tare a Digital Scale

How to Dress a Salad

119 167

How to Test the Accuracy of a Thermometer

How to Grind Meat Like a Pro

206

How to Use a Siphon

How to Form a Square Hamburger Patty

207

How to Deep-Fry Without a Deep Fryer

How to Poach Salmon in a Kitchen Sink

How to Use a Pressure Cooker

How to Bake Salmon in a Toaster Oven

278 278

How to Calibrate Your Oven

How to Kill and Shell a Lobster

284

How to Use an Edge Sealer

35 56

How to Shuck Mussels

286

How to Seal Food in a Zip-Top Bag

How to Shuck Clams

287

How to Use a Handheld Pump

How to Knead Dough by Hand

298

How to Compress Fruits and Vegetables

59 66

How to Make a Pizza

302

How to Pressure-Cook Risotto and Paella

95 98

How to Parcook and Finish Risotto and Paella

324 325

How to Make a Milk or Cream Infusion

361

Best Bets for Cooking Tender Meat So us Vide

192

Best Bets for Cooking Tough Poultry

Best Bets for Hamburger Patties

206

Best Bets for Cooking Fish Sous Vide

245 281

Best Bets for Cooking Tough Cuts of Meat

228

Best Bets for Cooking Shellfish Sous Vide

286

Best Bets for Cooking Tender Poultry

245

Best Bets for Cooking Vegetables in the Microwave

347

How to Check the Core Temperature How to Make Full-Flavored Pan Gravy How to Make Gels and Fluid Gels

Best Bets

XXVII

INDEX

almond flour (colltitlued) Coconut Crust, 372 in Coconut Cream Pie, 378

Double Almond Crust, 372

Achiote Paste, 219 in

Pressure ~ Cooked

acids, in marinades, 134 Adria, Ferran, xii beginnings of Modernist cuisine and,

in Ginger Cream Pie, 378

xviii-xix

Raspberry Crust, 372 almond oil

aerolatte, 11

almonds

African cucumber, 76 African markets, 75 agar

about, 70, 71 for gels and fluid gels, 98 Onion Fluid Gel, 100 variation, 100

Strawberry Panna Cotta, 161 Vegetarian Panna Cotta, 366 agave nectar/ syrup

Cilantro Vinaigrette, 117 Pressure-Caramelized Ketchup, 110 in Modernist Cheeseburger, 212

Spiced Chili Dressing, 117 Aged White Cheddar Cheese Slice, 318 in Aged White Cheddar on Sourdough with Apples, 318 aging, of meat science of, 186

shortcut for, 186 Aioli, 108 ajowan seeds

Chaat Masala, 136 source for, 74 albumin powder

about, 71 Striped Mushroom Omelet, 148-149 Ultrafrothy Milk Shake, 213 alfalfa, cattle finished on, 191 almond butter, Almond Flavoring, 361 almond flour Brown Butter Crust, 372

in Apple Cream Pie, 379 Carrot Crust, 372

Cheese Crust, 372 in Savory Cheese Pie, 379

Chocolate Crust, 372 in Chocolate Cream Pie, 378

XXVIII

and Morels, 220 Pressure-Infused Celery, 131 Strawberry Juice with Green Apple Foam, 161 Sweet Brine for Meats, 132 Vacuum-Infused Celery, 131 in Lobster Roll, 288-289

Pie, 378 Flaky Pie Crust, 372-373 variations, 372 Gingerbread Crust, 372

grating cauliflower and, 171 microwaving siphon-whipped batter and, 357 Aerated Blue Cheese Sauce, 261 Clams in Chowder Sauce, 292 variations, 292 Oyster Stew, 292 Pistachio Clam Chowder, 292 South of France Chowder, 292

Pork Shoulder Fricassee with Apples

in Almond and Cherry Cream

Carnitas,

218-219

apple juice Apple Foam, 376 in Apple Cream Pie, 379 Kalbi Marinade, 134

variation, 131

smoke point of, xxiii

Spinach Pesto, 103 Almond and Cherry Cream Pie, 378 Caramelized Almonds, 377 in Almond and Cherry Cream

Pie, 378 Mughal Curry Sauce, 104-105 in Lamb Curry, 234-235 in Pressure-Cooked Lamb Shanks, 234 Spinach Pesto, 103 Alsatian Omelet Filling, 145 amaranth, in Vegetable Stew, 185 Amaretto Pastry Cream, 375 in Almond and Cherry Cream Pie,

378 amchoor

in Waldorf Salad, 131 apples Aged White Cheddar on Sourdough with Apples, 318 Apple and Parsnip Soup, 181 Autumn Flavors Bok Choy, 346 Barley Salad, 184 Fruit Leather, 129 Grilled Applesauce, 124 in Aged White Cheddar on Sourdough with Apples, 318 Mac and Cheddar, 314 in Vacuum-Pickled Vegetables, 130 Waldorf Salad, 131 apricots, Fruit Leather, 129 Arborio rice Arborio Rice with Caramelized

Squash and Saffron, 330

Chaat Masala, 136

Arborio Rice with Sea Urchin and

source for, 74

Cocoa, 333

amylopectin, 320

cooking times for, 324 parcooking times for, 325 Pressure-Cooked Risotto, 329 transformation during cooking of,

amylose, 320 anardana

Chaat Masala, 136 source for, 74 anchovy fillets, white, in Napolitana

Pizza, 303 Angier, Bradford, 79 Angus beef, 191 animal fats, x.xii animals, humane treatment of, xix, 73,

322-323 Vegetable Risotto, 328-329 variation, 329 argan oil, xxiii aromas

dehydrating foods and, 21 preservation by pressure-cooking, 28 searing foods cooked sous vide for, 51

237 annatto seeds, Achiote Paste, 219 in Pressure-Cooked Carnitas,

218-219 apple cider vinegar Barbecue Marinade, 134

Pressure-Cooked Pickled Mustard Seeds, 125 in Honey Mustard Sauce, 259 Apple Cream Pie, 376, 379 Apple Foam, 376 in Apple Cream Pie, 379 apple jack/ apple brandy, Pork Shoulder Fricassee with Apples and Morels, 220

of shellfish, 284 Aromatic Chicken Broth, 266 in Chicken Noodle Soup, 273 Aromatic Microwaved Cod, 348 artichokes

Artichoke Soup, 180 Farro with Chicken, Artichokes,

and Black Olives, 332 arugula

Capicola Pizza, 306 in Green Salad with Romajne

Dressing, 169 Pizza Cruda, 307

INDEX

ascorbic acid, to keep juices fresh, 20 asparagus

about, 79 purple, 79 Quinoa with Pistachio Pesta and

Asparagus, 332 Atlantic salmon, 281 Auber Instruments digital temperature controller, 65 Australia, meat grades in, 190

Autumn Flavors Bok Choy, 346 Autumn Spice Mix, 138 in Gingerbread Crust, 372 avocado oil smoke point of, xxiii

in Sous Vide Tuna Con fit, 174 AWS digital scale, 6

BEETS

B baby beet greens, in Vegetable Stew, 185 baby bok choy. See bok choy, baby baby chard, in Vegetable Stew, 185 baby mustard greens, in Vegetable Stew,

185 bacon Bacon Brown Sugar Infusion, 361 Bacon Mayonnaise, 108

in Microwaved Potato Salad, 346 in Pork Belly B.L.T., 232-233 in Smoked Bacon B.L.T., 232 Mushroom jus, 91 in Cream of Mushroom Soup, ISO in Mushroom Puree, ISO in Mushroom Soup, 180 Raviolo Omelet Filling, 145

Smoked Bacon B.L.T., 232 Bain-Marie Creme Bnilee, 362 Baked Fish Skin Chips, 279 Baked Mac and Cheese, 312-313 baking on a charcoal grill, 45 in a combi oven, 39 inconsistent, in conventional ovens, 34 tips for, 34

baking soda Caramelized Carrot Soup, 178-179 Dried Caramelized Onions,l27 French Onion Soup, 127

Other Pressure-Cooked Vegetable Soups and Purees, 180-181 Pressure-Carameli zed Banana Puree, 181 in Banana Cream Pie, 379 Pressure-Carameli zed Ketchup, 110

in Modernist Cheeseburger, 212 variation, 110 Pressure-Caramelized Onions, 127 variation s, 127 Pressure-Rendered Chicken Fat, 123

Roasted-Potato Vichyssoise, 163 Bamix immersion blender, 6 banana blossoms, 76 bananas

Banana Cream Pie, 377, 379 Blowtorch-Caramelized Bananas,

377 in Banana Cream Pie, 379 green, source for, 75 Pressure-Carameli zed Banana Puree, 181 in Banana Cream Pie, 379

red

barley flour, Barley Noodles, 271

beef (continued)

barrel-style ice-cream makers, 12

flavor of

Basic Brine for Whole Poultry, 133

feed and, 191 toughness and, 188 grades of, 190 grass-fed, 191 ground. See beef, ground hanging tender. See beef hanger steak hanging tenderloin. See beef hanger

variation, 133 Basic Chili Oil, 118

basil Fines Herbes Vinaigrette with Pistachio Butter, 117 Genovese Pizza, 306 Microwaved Eggplant Parmesan,

Pistachio Pes to, 102-103. See also pistachios, Pistachio Pesto

Pizza Margherita, 304 Sauce Verte, 102, 103 in Vegetable Stew, 185

variations, 161 cooking in hard vs. soft water, science

of, 217 flageolet, in Refried Bean Foam, 223 garbanzo. See chickpeas gigante, in Refried Bean Foam, 223 green, in Broccoli with Cheese Sauce,

310 lima, in Refried Bean Foam, 223 pinto. See pinto beans, dried soy, cattle fini shed on, 191 Beard, James, xiv bechamel sauce, in cla ssic mac and cheese recipes, 308

cuts of, 188- 189. See also specific types of steak tender, 188 tough, 189

strip steak, 188 T-bone steak, 188

boneless chuck slices, 189

tenderloin tip roast. See beef, filet

boneless club steak, 188 book steak, 189

top blade steak, 189 top boneless chuck steak, 189 top loin, 188

traditional cooking methods for,

192 strip loin, 188

butler steak, 189 Chateaubriand. See beef, filet chuck. See beef chuck chuck eye steak, 189

contamination of, xxv

Firm Burger Patty, 208

steak dry-aged, 186

Barbecue Ketchup, 110 Barbecue Marinade, 134

best bets for cooking sous vide,

barley, hulled, Pressure-Cooked Barley, 184 in Barley Salad, 184 in Bok Choy Medley, 346 in Vegetable Stew, 185 barley, pearl

best bets for hamburger patties,

veiny steak, 188

Wagyu, 190, 191 whole filet. See beef, filet beef, ground best bets for hamburger patties, 206 Brown BeefJus, 92

cooking so us vide, target core temperatures for, 60, 64 Delmonico steak. See beef rib eye

feed of, 191 filet, 188

cooking times for, 324 parcooking times for, 325

shortcut for aging, 186 shoulder tip blade steak, 189

Angus, 191 bavette. See beef hanger steak bavette de flanchet . See beef flank steak beauty steak. See beef rib eye steak bife de vacio. See beef flank steak boneless chuck fillet steak, 189

source for, 74

Red Wine, 331

steak porterhouse steak, 188 premium varieties of, 191 sa lting, timing of, 226 short ribs. See beef short ribs

steaks cooking sous vide, 186

brisket, best bets for cooking, 228 butcher's steak. See beef hanger steak

Modernist Hamburger Patty,

208-209 in Modernist Cheeseburger, 212 var iation, 208

Red Wine Glaze, 97 in Braised Short Ribs, 228, 229

192

seasoning, science of, 204

beef chuck best bets for hamburger patties, 206 Brown Beef Stock in French Onion Soup, 127

206 core temperature for cooking so us vide, 60

Filet Mignon with Montpellier Butter, 263

in Korean Short-Rib Lettuce

Wraps, 221 in Pho Soup, 267

filet mignon roast . See beef, filet

flank steak. See beef flank steak flanken ribs. See beef, short ribs flatiron steak. See. beef flatiron steak

in Thai Sweet, Sour, and Savory

Glaze, 115 chuck eye steak, 189 chuck top blade, 189

INDEX

variations, 86

White Beef Stock, 86 beef flank steak, 189 best bets for cooking sous vide, 192 best bets for hamburger patties, 206

BiltongJerky, 350 Crispy Beef Strands, 352 in Crispy Beef and Shallot Salad, 353 Microwaved BeefJerky, 350-351 variations, 350

beef hanger steak, 189,208-209

patties, 206 skirt steak. See beefhanger steak Spencer steak. See. beef rib eye steak

ambassador steak, 188

petite steak, 189 Philadelphia steak. See beef hanger

si rloin, best bets for hamburger

beef

2 14-215 Pressure-Cooked Brown Beef Stock,

oven-busters. See beef, short ribs paleron, 189

New York strip, 188

158-161

Modernist Meatloaf Sandwich,

Smoky Jerky, 350 Spicy Jerky, 350 beef flatiron steak, 189 Microwaved BeefJerky, 350-351

muscles of cow and, 188

bathtubs, using as water baths, 64 beans cannellini, Fruit Minestrone,

entrecOte. See beef rib eye steak

Barley with Wild Mushrooms and

hotel-style steak, 188 Kansas City steak, 188 Kobe-style, 191 lifter steak, 189 London broil. See beef flank steak market steak. See beef rib eye steak

344-345 in Microwave-Fried Parsley, 354

photograph of, 76 banked grilling, 45, 193

steak

beef chuck (continued)

variations, 350 Modernist Hamburger Patty,

208-209 in Modernist Cheeseburger, 212 variation, 208

beef knucklebones, Red Wine Glaze, 97 in Braised Short Ribs, 228, 229 beef rib eye steak, 188 best bets for cooking sous vide, 192 Modernist Hamburger Patty,

208-209 in Modernist Cheeseburger, 212 variation, 208

beef short ribs, 189 about, 226 Beef Short Ribs with Shiitake Marmalade, 263 best bets for cooking, 228 best bets for hamburger patties, 206

Braised Short Ribs, 228, 229 freezing, 61 Korean Short-Rib Lettuce Wraps,

221 Modernist Hamburger Patty,

208-209 in Modernist Cheeseburger, 212 variation, 208 sous vide cooking time for, 60

beef strip steak best bets for cooking so us vide, 192 Frozen Steak, 197 Grilled Steak, 200-201 Low-Temp Oven Steak, 196-197 variation, 197

Sous Vide Steak, 192, 194-195 So us Vide Steak in a Cooler, 198 beef tallow, smoke and flash points of, xxii

beef tongue, 189 source for, 75

beer, Perfectly Melting Cheese Slice, 317 in French Onion Soup, 127 in Modernist Cheeseburger, 212

in Tuna Con fit Salad and Tuna Melt Sandwich, 174 beet greens, baby, in Vegetable Stew, 185 beets Beet Salad, 168 in Pressure-Cooked Carrots and

Leeks, 272 in Vacuum-Pickled Vegetables, 130,

131

XX I X

BELL PEPPERS

bell peppers Bell Pepper Butter, 121 Bell Pepper Soup, 181 Mediterranean Vegetable Confit, 126 in Feta on Potato Bread with

Vegetable Confit, 319 roasted, in Napolitana Pizza, 303 bergamot essential oil, Earl Grey Tea

Infusion, 361 berries. See also specific types of berries wild, 79 Best Bets for cooking fish sous vide, 281 for cooking shellfish sous vide, 286 for cooking tend er meat sous vide, 192 for cooking tender poultry sous vide,

245 for cooking tough cuts of meat, 228 for cooking tough poultry sous vide, 245 for cooking vegetables in the micro· wave oven, 347

for hamburger patties, 206 beverages

Strawberry Juice with Green Apple Foam, 161 Ultrafrothy Milk Shake, 213 Bibb lettuce, Pork Belly B.L.T., 232- 233 Big Mac sauce, 109 Bilet, Maxime, xiii autobiographical sketch of, xv Modernist Cuisine, xii, xiv, xv, xvii, xviii

BiltongJerky, 350 bisque, Pressure-Cooked Lobster

Bisque, 122 bitter almond extract, Almond

Flavoring, 361 bitter melon

photograph of, 77 source for, 74 black butter, how to make, 119 black cod Aromatic Microwaved Cod, 348

best bets for cooking so us vide, 281 Microwaved Black Cod with

Scallions and Ginger, 348-349 variations, 348 in So us Vide Tuna Con fit, 174 black olives, Farro with Chicken,

Artichokes, and Black Olives, 332 black peppercorns MCCurry Powder, 135. See also MCCurry Powder Vindaloo Spice Mix, 135 black salt Chaat Masala, 136 source for, 74 black truffles, 78 black trumpet mushrooms, 78 blanching, of meat, xxv bleach solution, sanitizing implements with,xxiv blender. See countertop blendersj immersion blenders

Bloom strengths, 366 blowtorches, 5 about, 14-15, 193 Aromatic Chicken Broth, 266 in Chicken Noodle Soup, 273 Bain·Marie Creme BrUlee, 362 Blowtorch·Caramelized Bananas, 377 in Banana Cream Pie, 379 brand and price of, 6

Coffee Creme Bnilee, 362-363

blowtorches (continued) Filet Mignon with Montpellier Butter, 263 Flan, 362 Korean Pork Belly Skewers, 262

bread flour, Poolish, 299 in Rustic Pizza Dough, 298 in Whole Wheat Pizza Dough, 298 Breadsticks, 296

Brown Chicken Stock, 85 in Aromatic Chicken Broth, 266

brine injectors and syringes

326-327 Brown Fish Stock, 87 Brown Pork Stock, 86 in Goulash Broth, 267

about, 16 Basic Brine for Whole Poultry, 133

Lamb Skewers with Mint Yogurt,

263 safety tips for, 15 Salsa Verde, 111

variation, 133 for brining, 132

Combi Oven Roast Chicken, 241 Deep-Fried Chicken, 241 Extra-Juicy Chicken, 241 Pincushion Chicken, 241 Roast Chicken, 238-241

sanitizing meat using, xxv for searing foods cooked sous v ide, 51 searing meat with, 193

Sous Vide Lamb Skewers, 203 Sous Vide Steak, 192, 194-195 Sous Vide Steak in a Cooler, 198

variation s, 241

Savory Poultry Brine, 133 Slow-Baked Chicken with Onions, 242-243 Sous Vide Turkey Breast, 247 Spatchcock Chicken, 241

technique with, 14 uses for, 6, 14-15

Whole Lamb Shank, 234 blue cheese Aerated Blue Cheese Sauce, 261 Blue Cheese Sauce, 258, 261 variation, 261

Sweet Brine for Meats, 132 brines. See also marinades

blueberries, Fruit Salad, 161

about, 132 Basic Brine for Whole Poultry, 133

Blumenthal, Heston, xii, xv beginnings of Modernist cuisine and, xviii-xix

variation, 133 covering, 16 cures vs ., 132 effect on chicken meat and skin, 237

Onion Fluid Gel, 100 Potato Puree, 230, 231 Snails with Porridge dish of, 331 Bob's Red Mill flours, 270

Fish Brine, 133 var iations, 133 for Fragrant So us Vide Salmon,

boiling point of water at high elevation, 30 in pressure cooker, 28, 30, 177

bok choy, baby Autumn Flavors Bok Choy, 346 Bok Choy Medley, 346 in Broccoli with Cheese Sauce, 310

Sichuan Bok Choy, 346-347 variations, 346 Bolognese Sauce, 112 bomba rice Bomba Rice with Chorizo and

276-277 injecting, 16

salt level in, 16, 132 Savory Poultry Brine, 133 Seaweed Fish Brine, 133 Sweet Brine for Meats, 132 briquettes, for charcoal grill, 45 broccoli Bomba Rice with Chorizo and

Broccoli-Gruyere Puree, 320, 333 Broccoli-Gruyere Soup, 181 in Autumn Flavors Bok Choy, 346

Broccoli- Gruyere Puree, 320, 333

in Bomba Rice with Chorizo and Broccoli· Gruyere Puree, 320,

cooking times for, 324 parcooking times for, 325

Pressure-Cooked Paella del Bosco, 326-327 Boneless Yakitori Wings, 256-257 bonito flakes source for, 74 Yakitori Sauce, 259,260 in Boneless Yakitori Wings,

256-257 in Chicken Skin Yakitori Skewers,

262 in Tsukune, 263

Boston lettuce, Pork Belly B.L.T., 232- 233 Braised Duck with Steamed Buns, 221 Braised Short Ribs, 228, 229 bread Breadsticks, 296 Garlic Knots, 297

333 Broccoli with Cheese Sauce, 310 Mac and Cheddar, 314 Broccoli Raab Pizza, 306 broiler, searing meat under, 193 bromelain, in pineapple, 260

bronze gelatin, 366 broths Aromatic Chicken Broth, 266 in Chicken Noodle Soup, 273 Goulash Broth, 267 Herb and Romaine Broth, 168 Brown BeefJus, 92 Brown Beef Stock, 86 in French Onion Soup, 127

White Sandwich Bread, 210-211 in Modernist Cheeseburger, 212 in Modernist Meatloaf Sandw ich,

in Baked Mac and Cheese,

Uovo Pizza, 307

Brown Chicken Jus, 92

312-313

in Home Jus Gras, 93 in Shiitake Marmalade, 151 variations, 92

Microwaved Eggplant Parmesan,

344-345

variations, 362

XXX

INDEX

218-219 in Redeye Gravy, 96 in Refried Bean Foam, 223 in Refried Bean Puree, 223 in Sous Vide Carnitas, 219

in Whole Shoulder, 219 brown sugar Bacon Brown Sugar Infusion, 361

Barbecue Ketchup, 110 Brown Vegetable Stock, 89 browning food with a blowtorch, 15 in a microwave oven, 43 pizza crusts, 298

Brussels sprout leaves, Bok Choy Medley, 346 Brussels sprouts in Broccoli with Cheese Sauce, 310 Genovese Pizza, 306

Buckwheat Pizza Dough, 296 Buffalo Sauce, 258 in Sous Vide Buffalo Wings, 250-251 bulbs (vegetables), best bets for cooking in the microwave oven, 347

burdock, 77 butane blowtorches, IS

butchers, local, 73 butcher's syringes. See brine injectors and syringes

butter. See also ghee Bell Pepper Butter, 121 black, how to make, 119 brown. See brown butter

clarified about, xxii-xxiii

how to make, 119 smoke and flash points of, xxii

Coffee Butter, 121 Crustacean Hollandaise, 106

Foamed Lemon Curd, 365 Fruit Curds, 365 Garlic Hollandaise, 106 Montpellier Butter, 120 in Filet Mignon with Montpellier Butter, 263 Porcini Butter, 116, 121 Pressure· Cooked Crustacean Butter,

122 in Crustacean Hollandaise, 106

in Apple Cream Pie, 379 how to make, 119

Cheese Crumble, 316

in Pressure·Cooked Carnitas,

in Lobster Roll, 288-289

Glaze, 115

bread crumbs, panko

Apples and Morels, 220 in Pork Vindaloo with Naan, 221

221 in Pho Soup, 267

brown butter Brown Butter Crust, 372

214-215

in Pork Shoulder Fricassee with

in Korean Short· Rib Lettuce Wraps,

in Thai Sweet, Sour, and Savory

source for, 74

in Brown Chicken Jus, 92 in Pressure·Cooked Paella del Bosco,

variations, 122 smoke point of, xxiii So us Vide Crustacean Butter, 122

Sous Vide Hollandaise, 106-107 variations, 106

Sous Vide Lemon Curd, 365 in Lemon Posset, 364 in Raspberry Lemon Cream Pie,

379 variations, 365

Sous Vide Lemon Herb Oil, 116 Spicy HoLlandaise, 106

CHARCOAL GR ILLS butter (continued) Spinach Butter, 116, 121, 194 in Bok Choy Medley, 346 StoveÂˇTop Carotene Butter, 116, 121 in Caramelized Carrot Soup,

178-179 variations, 121

Ultrastable Butter Sauce, 93 butter lettuce Green Salad with Romaine Dressing,

168-169 variations, 168 Korean Short-Rib Lettuce Wraps,

221 buttermilk powder, White Sandwich

Bread, 210-211 in Modernist Cheeseburger, 212 in Modernist Meatloaf Sandwich,

214-215 butternut squash, Squash Soup, 180 in Arborio Rice with Caramelized

Squash and Saffron, 330 button mushrooms in Broccoli with Cheese Sauce, 310 Camembert and Gruyere on Brioche with Ham and Mushrooms, 318

Mediterranean Vegetable Confit, 126 in Feta on Potato Bread with

Vegetable Confit, 319

Caramelized Onion Gravy, 101 caramelizing

with a blowtorch, 14

cake molds, how to form a square

hamburger patty in, 207 cakes

Instant Chocolate Sponge, 356-357 va riations, 357 Peanut Butter Sponge, 357

Raspberry Macadamia Nut Sponge, 357 Sesame Sponge, 357

in a pressure cooker, science of, 177 on a stove top, 363 carbon dioxide, solubility of, 18 carbonating, with a whipping siphon, 18 cardamom pods, green

MCCurry Powder, 135. See also MCCurry Powder Vindaloo Spice Mix, 135 in Pork Vindaloo with Naan, 221 cardamom seeds

Cocoa Nib and Cardamom Dust, 376 in Chocolate Cream Pie, 378 Middle Eastern Infusion, 361 source for, 74

calcium chloride, for cooking firmer

beans, 217 Camembert cheese

Alsatian Omelet Filling, 145 Camembert and Gruyere Cheese

Careme, Marie-Antoine, xviii carnaroli rice cooking times for, 324 parcooking times for, 325 Pressure-Cooked Risotto, 329

Slice, 318 in Camembert and Gruyere on Brioche with Ham and Mushrooms, 318 Canada, meat grades in, 190 cannellini beans, Fruit Minestrone,

Vegetable Risotto, 328-329 variation, 329

158- 161

carnitas

variations, 161 canning jars

about, 217 Braised Duck with Steamed Buns,

Buffalo Sauce, 258

221

in Sous Vide Buffalo Wings,

Korean Short-Rib Lettuce Wraps,

250-251 Caramelized Onion Gravy, 101

Cheese Grits, 338 cooking so us vide using, 50 Dried Caramelized Onions, 127

Fingerling Potatoes Confit, 126 French Onion Soup, 127 Mediterranean Vegetable Con fit, 126 i_n Feta on Potato Bread with

Vegetable Con fit, 319 Pressure-Ca ramelized Onions, 127. See also onions, PressureCaramelized Onions variations, 127

Pressure-Cooked Drippings, 101 variation, 101 Pressure-Cooked Garlic Confit, 126. See also garlic, Press ure-Cooked Garlic Con fit Pressure-Cooked Polenta, 336-337 variation, 337 Pressure-Cooked Vegetable Jus, 182 in Vegetable Stew, 185 pressure-cooking in, 33 Pressure-Rendered Chicken Fat, 123 in Chicken Noodle Soup, 273 in Fingerling Potatoes Confit, 126 in Home Jus Gras, 93 Proven~al Garlic Confit, 126 safety tip for, 183 Shrimp and Grits, 338-339 variation, 338 for sous vide cooking, 53

Sous Vide Tuna Confit, 174 in Tuna Confit Salad and Tuna Melt Sandwich, 174 Vacuum-Pickled Vegetables, 130-131

in Caramelized Carrot Soup, 178-179 variations, 121 carrot powder, Carrot Crust, 372 carrot tops, 354 in Microwave-Fried Parsley, 354 carrots

Caramelized Carrot Soup, 178- 179 carotene pigment in, 121 flavor of, 178

INDEX

cauliflower

Bok Choy Medley, 346 in Broccoli with Cheese Sauce, 310 Cauliflower Soup, 180 "Fat-Free" Mac and Cheese, 314-315 variations, 314 Pressure-Cooked Quinoa Salad with

Cauliflower, 170-171 in Vacuum-Pickled Vegetables, 130,

131 cauliflower mushroom, 78 celery

Pressure-Infused Celery, 131 Vacuum-Infused Celery, 131 in Lobster Roll, 288- 289 variation, 131 in Waldorf Salad, 131 photograph of, 77 in Pressure-Cooked Carrots and

Leeks, 272 Waldorf Salad, 131 centrifugal juices, 20 Chaat Masala, 136 chamber sealers, 53, 54. See also vacuum sealers chamomile blossoms, dried

Fish Spice Mix, 137 in Fragrant Sous Vide Salmon,

276-277

about, 79 Broccoli Raab Pizza, 306 in Funghi Pizza, 303 golden, 78 gray, 79 Mushroom Puree, 150. See also mushrooms, Mushroom Puree

in Shiitake Marmalade, 151 yellow foot, 78 charcoal grills

Pressure-Cooked Carrots and Leeks,

about, 44-47 baking on, 45

272 in Chicken Noodle Soup, 273 variations, 272 Pressure-Cooked Vegetable Jus, 182 in Vegetable Stew, 185 Pressure-Cooked Vegetables, 247 in Vegetable Stew, 185

briquettes vs. hardwood for, 45 controlling temperature of, 44 cooking evenly on, 47 cutaway illustration of, 46-47 for cooking meat, 193 fan or hair dryer to increase temperature of, 44, 47, 202

Vacuum-Pickled Vegetables,

Grilled Applesauce, 124 in Aged White Cheddar on Sourdough with Apples, 318 Grilled Pork Chop, 202 Grilled Steak, 200-201

Mughal Curry Sauce, 104-105 in Lamb Curry, 234-235 Shanks, 234 raw, source for, 74 Roasted Red Pepper Pesto, 103 source for, 75

378 Caramelized Carrot Soup, 178-179

Deep-Dish Fried Pizza, 305 Oven-Fried Pizza, 305 variation, 305 Catching Fire' How Cooking Made Us Human (Wrangham), 22

source for, 75 Champion-style juicers, 20 chanterelles

in Pressure-Cooked Lamb

Caramelized Almonds, 377 in Almond and Cherry Cream Pie,

Camembert and Gruyere on Brioche with Ham and Mushrooms, 318

carrageenan, iota and kappa Strawberry Panna Cotta, 161 Vegetarian Panna Cotta, 366 carrot juice, Stove-Top Carotene Butter,

cashews

Capicola Pizza, 306 Caramel Flavoring, 361

Aged White Cheddar on Sourdough with Apples, 318 for baking pizza, 301

celery root

130-131

canol a oil, smoke and flash points of, xxii

cast-iron griddles, for baking pizza, 301 cast-iron skillets

221 Lamb Leg Tajine, 220 Pork Shoulder Fricassee with Apples and Morels, 220 Pork Vindaloo with Naan, 221 pressure cooker for making, 217 Pressure-Cooked Carnitas, 218-219 variations, 219 Pressure-Cooked Chicharr6n, 219, 222 Sous Vide Carnitas, 219 Whole Shoulder, 219 carotenes, 121, 122

116, 121

for searing foods cooked so us vide,

51 searing meat on, 193

Sous Vide Steak in a Cooler, 198 tips for cooking on, 47

XXXI

CHARD

chard, baby, in Vegetable Stew, 185

chicken

chargers, for whipping siphons, 18

breasts. See chicken breasts

chayote, 77 cheddar cheese Aged White Cheddar Cheese Slice, 318 in Aged White Cheddar on Sourdough with Apples, 318 Baked Mac and Cheese, 312-313

buying, 237 Chicken Noodle Soup, 273

Broccoli with Cheese Sauce, 310

in Cheese Crumble, 316 Cheese Grits, 338 Fondue, 310 goat, Mac with Goat Gouda and Cheddar, 310 Mac and Cheddar, 314 Mac and Cheese, 310-311 variations, 310

Mac with Sharp Cheddar and Swiss, 310 Perfectly Melting Cheese Slice, 317 in French Onion Soup, 127 in Modernist Cheeseburger, 212 in Tuna Con fit Salad and Tuna

Melt Sandwich, 174 cheese. See also specific varieties of cheese Cheese Course, 161 Cheese Crisps, 315 Cheese Crumble, 316 in Baked Mac and Cheese, 312-313 Cheese Crust, 372 in Savory Cheese Pie, 379 Cheese Grits, 338 Cheese Pastry Cream, 375 as emulsion, 308 cheese slices Aged White Cheddar Cheese Slice, 318 in Aged White Cheddar on Sourdough with Apples, 318 Camembert and Gruyere Cheese Slice, 318 in Camembert and Gruyere on Brioche with Ham and Mushrooms, 318 Feta Cheese Slice, 319 in Feta on Potato Bread with Vegetable Con fit, 319 Goat Cheese Slice, 319 in Goat Cheese on Baguette with Tomato Confit and Basil, 319 Perfectly Melting Cheese Slice, 317 in French Onion Soup, 127 in Modernist Cheeseburger, 212 in Tuna Con fit Salad and Tuna Melt Sandwich, 174 Stilton Cheese Slice, 319 in Stilton on Wa lnut Bread with Shallot Marmalade, 319 cheese water, 314, 315 in Leek and Onion Soup, 181 cheeseburger, Modernist Cheeseburger, 212 cherimoya, 76 cherries Almond and Cherry Cream Pie, 378 Cherry Vinaigrette, 117 chervil, 354 Chervil, Thyme, and Scallion Pes to, 102,103 Sauce Verte, 102, 103 in Vegetable Stew, 185 chestnuts freshwater, so urce for, 74 photograph of, 76

XXXII

chicken thighs (continued) Pesto Chicken Thigh Skewers, 262 Pressure-Cooked Drippings, 101 variation, 101

Pressure-Cooked White Chicken Stock, 84-85, 247

dark vs. white meat of, science of, 237

feet . See chicken feet ground. See chicken, ground legs. See also chicken thighs about, 237 best bets for cooking, 245 skin. See chicken skin whole. See chicken, whole

in Aromatic Chicken Broth, 266

in Sous Vide Braised Snails, 293 variation, 85

Slow-Baked Chicken with Onions, 242-243 Sous Vide Chicken, 244-245 in Chicken Noodle Soup, 273

wings. See chicken wings chicken, ground

in Farro with Chicken, Arti-

chokes, and Black Olives, 332

Brown Chicken Jus, 92 in Home Jus Gras, 93 in Shiitake Marmalade, 151 variations, 92

chicken wings

best bets for cooking, 245 Boneless Yakitori Wings, 256-257 Brown Chicken Jus, 92 in Home Jus Gras, 93

Tsukune, 263 in Deep-Fried Tsukune

in Shiitake Marmalade, 151 variations, 92

Skewers, 262 chicken, whole

Brown Chicken Stock, 85

Basic Brine for Whole Poultry, 133

in Aromatic Chicken Broth, 266 in Brown Chicken Ju s, 92 in Pressure-Cooked Paella del

variation, 133

Combi Oven Roast Chicken, 241 Deep-Fried Chicken, 241 Extra-Juicy Chicken, 241

Bosco, 326-327

Chinese eggplant photograph of, 77 source for, 74 Chinese Garlic Chili Condiment, 258,

261 Chinese markets, 74

Chinese Soup, 267 Chinook salmon, 280 chipotle chilies Mexican Marinade, 134

Sous Vide Spiced Chili Oil, 118 chive blossoms, in Vegetable Stew, 185 chives Fines Herbes Vinaigrette with Pistachio Butter, 117 garlic

Rye Noodles, 270 source for, 74

Pistachio Pesto, 102-103. See also pistachios, Pistachio Pesta

Sauce Verte, 102, 103 chocolate

Chocolate Cream Pie, 376, 378 Chocolate Crust, 372 in Chocolate Cream Pie, 378 Chocolate Flavoring, 361

Chocolate Pastry Cream, 375

Pincushion Chicken, 241

Caramelized Onion Gravy, 101

in Chocolate Cream Pie, 378

Roast Chicken, 238-241

Crispy Chicken Wings, KoreanStyle, 252-253 Crispy Skinless Chicken Wings, 254-255

Instant Chocolate Sponge, 356-357

variations, 241

roasting, 237 Savory Poultry Brine, 133

Pressure-Cooked Drippings, 101 variation, 101

Slow-Baked Chicken with Onions,

242-243 Spatchcock Chicken, 241

Pressure-Cooked White Chicken Stock, 84-85, 247 in Aromatic Chicken Broth, 266

chicken breasts

about, 237 best bets for cooking, 245 Chicken Breast Satay, 263 Slow-Baked Chicken with Onions, 242-243 Sous Vide Chicken, 244-245 in Chicken Noodle Soup, 273 in Farro with Chicken, Arti-

chokes, and Black Olives, 332 chicken fat Fingerling Potatoes Confit, 126 Pressure-Rendered Chicken Fat, 123 in Chicken Noodle Soup, 273 in Fingerling Potatoes Con fit, 126 in Home jus Gras, 93 smoke and flash points of, xxii

in Sous Vide Braised Snails, 293 variation, 85

Sous Vide Buffalo Wings, 250-251 chickpeas Pressure-Cooked Chickpea Salad, 172-173 in Refried Bean Foam, 223 source for, 74

chickweed, 79 Child, Julia, xiv chili flakes, Basic Chili Oil, 118 chili peppers chipotle Mexican Marinade, 134

Sous Vide Spiced Chili Oil, 118

chicken feet, Brown Chicken Jus, 92 in Home Jus Gras, 93 in Shiitake Marmalade, lSI

green, Capicola Pizza, 306 habafi.ero, Achiote Paste, 219 in Pressure-Cooked Carnitas,

variations, 92 chicken skin

218-219 jalapeno. See jalapeno peppers Kashmiri. See Kashmiri chilies piquillo. See piquillo peppers

Chicken Skin Yakitori Skewers, 262 Crispy Chicken or Pork Skin, 279

red, dried

effect of brine on, 237 Pressure-Rendered Chicken Fat, 123

Pressure-Cooked Spiced Chili Oil, 118 Sous Vide Spiced Chili Oil, 118. See also sous vide setup, Sous Vide Spiced Chili Oil

in Chicken Noodle Soup, 273 in Fingerling Potatoes Confit, 126 in Home Jus Gras, 93

Puffed Chicken Skin, 254 chicken thighs about, 237 best bets for cooking, 245 Brown Chicken Stock, 85 in Aromatic Chicken Broth, 266

in Brown Chicken Jus, 92 in Pressure-Cooked Paella del

Bosco, 326-327

sources for, 74, 75

Thai Mango Chili Leather, 129 Vietnamese Marinade, 134

Chili Spice Mix, 138 in Crispy Skinless Chicken Wings, 254-255 Chinese dates, 76

Caramelized Onion Gravy, 101

INDEX

variations, 357 choice grade of meat, 190 chorizo, Bomba Rice with Chorizo and Broccoli-G ruyf:re Puree, 320,333 chowders

Clams in Chowder Sauce, 292 variations, 292

Pistachio Clam Chowder, 292 South of France Chowder, 292 cider vinegar Barbecue Marinade, 134

Pressure-Cooked Pickled Mustard Seeds, 125 in Honey Mustard Sauce, 259 washing produce with, xxiv cilantro

Cilantro Pesto, 103 Cilantro Vinaigrette, 117

Pistachio Pesto, 102-103. See also pistachios, Pistachio Pesta Thai Sweet, Sour, and Savory Glaze,

115 Tortilla Soup, 267 cinnamon Autumn Spice Mix, 138

in Gingerbread Crust, 372 Cinnamon Vanilla Infusion, 361 Cinnamon-Sugar Doughnut Holes,

297 Gingerbread Crust, in Ginger Cream

Pie,378 sou rce for, 74 Sous Vide Vanilla-Cinnamon Pastry

Cream, 374-375 in Apple Cream Pie, 379 variations, 375 citric acid

Crustacean Hollandaise, 106 Foamed Lemon Curd, 365 Garlic Hollandaise, 106 to keep juices fresh, 20 Lemon Pastry Cream, 375 in Raspberry Lemon Cream Pie,

379

COTIJA CHEESE citric acid (cot1tit1ued) Lemon Posset, 364 Pressure-Infused Celery, 131 Sous Vide Hollandaise, 106-107 variations, 106 So us Vide Lemon Curd, 365 in Lemon Posset, 364 in Raspberry Lemon Cream Pie, 379 variations, 365 Spicy Hollandaise, 106 Vacuum-Infused Celery, 131 in Lobster Roll, 288-289 variation, 131 in Waldorf Salad, 131 clam juice, substituting for fish stock, 87 clams best bets for cooking sous vide, 286 buying fresh, 284 Clams in Chowder Sauce, 292 variations, 292 cooked traditionally vs. cooked sous vide, 287 Forbidden Rice with Squid Ink and Sous Vide Clams, 330 how to shuck, 287 Pistachio Clam Chowder, 292 South of France Chowder, 292 clarified butter about, xxii-xxiii how to make, 119 smoke and flash points of, xxii cloves, Autumn Spice Mix, 138 cocoa butter, for keeping pie crust crisp, 372 Cocoa Nib and Cardamom Dust, 376 in Chocolate Cream Pie, 378 cocoa powder Arborio Rice with Sea Urchin and Cocoa, 333 Chocolate Crust, 372 in Chocolate Cream Pie, 378 Chocolate Pastry Cream, 375 in Chocolate Cream Pie, 378 Instant Chocolate Sponge, 356-357 variations, 357 coconut cream Coconut Infusion, 361 Coconut Pastry Cream, 375 in Coconut Cream Pie, 378 Pressure-Caramelized Peanut Sauce, 111,259 in Chicken Breast Satay, 263 source for, 75 South Indian Watercress, 199 coconut cream powder, Coconut Crust, 372 in Coconut Cream Pie, 378 coconut flour, Coconut Noodles, 271 in Thai Soup, 267 coconut milk Coconut Infusion, 361 Coconut Pastry Cream, 375 in Coconut Cream Pie, 378 Kerala Curry Sauce, 104 South Indian Watercress, 199 Thai Soup, 267 coconut oil refined, smoke and flash points of, xxii virgin, smoke point of, xxiii cod black. See black cod true, best bets for cooking sous vide, 28I

coffee Bain-Marie Creme Bn1lf:e, 362 Coffee Butter, 121 Coffee Creme Brulee, 362-363 variations, 362 Plan, 362 Pot de Creme, 362 Pressure-Infused Coffee Pastry Cream, 375 in Banana Cream Pie, 379 coffee cold-brewing kit, brand, price, and uses of, 6 coffee grinders about, 10 Autumn Spice Mix, 138 in Gingerbread Crust, 372 Chaat Masala, 136 Chili Spice Mix, 138 in Crispy Skinless Chicken Wings, 254-255 Cocoa Nib and Cardamom Dust, 376 in Chocolate Cream Pie, 378 Fish Spice Mix, 137 in Fragrant Sous Vide Salmon, 276-277 Freeze-Dried Raspberry Powder, 377. See also Freeze-Dried Raspberry Powder Grilling Spice Mix, 139 MCCurry Powder, 135. See also MC Curry Powder Vindaloo Spice Mix, 135 in Pork Vindaloo with Naan, 221 cold soups about, ISS Fruit Minestrone, 158-161 variations, 161 Modernist Vichyssoise, 162-164 variations, 163 Raspberry Gazpacho, 156-157 Roasted-Po tato Vichyssoise, 163 Vichyssoise with Potato Peel Reduction, 163 collagen, in tough cuts of meat, 227 color of carrots, 121 of chicken meat, science of, 237 of crustacean shells, 122, 282 of juices, preserving, 20 oils and fats as vehicles of, 116, 121 combi ovens, 34 about, 38 Combi Oven Roast Chicken, 241 consumer-grade, 38 convention mode of, 38 cooking sous vide using, SO, 51 preheating, 51 Steamed Herb Omelet, 147 temperature control accuracy of, 49 ways to use, 38-39 commercial-style ice-cream makers, 12 composing salads, 166-167 Comte cheese Autumn Flavors Bok Choy, 346 Creamed Spinach, 194, 199 in Florentine Omelet Filling, 145 in Mac and Parmesan, 314 variation, 199 condiments. See also ketchup; sauces; savory marmalades about, 124 Chinese Garlic Chili Condiment, 258,261

INDEX

condiments (continued) Grilled Applesauce, 124 in Aged White Cheddar on Sourdough with Apples, 318 Pressure-Caramelized Onions, 127. See also onions, PressureCaramelized Onions variations, 127 Pressure-Cooked Garlic Confit, 126. See also garlic, Pressure-Cooked Garlic Con fit variations, 126 Pressure-Cooked Pickled Mustard Seeds, 125 in Honey Mustard Sauce, 259 Pressure-Infused Celery, 131 Tomato Con fit, 128 in Goat Cheese on Baguette with Tomato Con fit and Basil, 319 in Tomato Leather, 129 Tomato Leather, 129 in Lobster Roll, 288-289 variations, 129 Vacuum-Infused Celery, 131 in Lobster Roll, 288-289 variation, 131 in Waldorf Salad, 131 Vacuum-Pickled Vegetables, 130-131 con fits Fingerling Potatoes Confit, 126 Mediterranean Vegetable Confit, 126 in Feta on Potato Bread with Vegetable Con fit, 319 Pressure-Cooked Garlic Confit, 126. See also garlic, Pressure-Cooked Garlic Con fit Proven~al Garlic Confit, 126 SousVide Tuna Confit, 174 in Tuna Con fit Salad and Tuna Melt Sandwich, 174 Tomato Con fit, 128 in Goat Cheese on Baguette with Tomato Con fit and Basil, 319 in Tomato Leather, 129 Turkey Confit, 246 conical sieves, 17 containers for cooking so us vide, 53. See also plastic bags; zip-top bags for use in microwave ovens, 42 contamination by digital thermometer probe, avoiding, 67 preventing, xxiv-xxv convection ovens, 34 conventional cooking gear, 22-47 conventional ovens about, 34 accuracy of, 22 baking tips for, 35 best setup for baking pizza in, 301 cutaway illustration of, 36-37 for drying pork skin, 222 Frozen Steak, 197 how to calibrate, 35 Low-Temp Oven Steak, 196-197 low-temperature, for cooking meat, 193 moving food around in, 34 preheating, 34 Pressure-Cooked Chicharr6n, 219, 222 temperature controls of, 34 The Cooking Lab, xii, xv

cooking times, for sous vide cooking, 51 cooktops. See stoves coolers Sous Vide Steak in a Cooler, 198 using as water bath, 64, 193 cooling, of cooked food, xxv, 61 copper pans, 26 Copper River salmon, 281 core temperatures for hamburger patties, 206 how to check, 66-67 in a vacuum-sealed bag, 67 in a zip-top bag, 66 in sous vide cooking, SO for beef, 64 for fish, 64, 281 for salmon, 280, 281 for shellfish, 286 for tender meat, 60, 192 for tender poultry, 245 for tough cuts of meat, 60, 228 for tough poultry, 245 target. See target temperature coriander seeds Chaat Masala, 136 Fish Spice Mix, 137 in Fragrant Sous Vide Salmon, 276-277 MCCurry Powder, 135. See also MCCurry Powder Sous Vide Spiced Chili Oil, 118. See also sous vide setup, Sous Vide Spiced Chili Oil Vindaloo Spice Mix, 135 in Pork Vindaloo with Naan, 221 corn. See also popcorn cattle finished on, 191 Corn juice Tamales, 340 Corn Soup, 181 Hush Puppies, 340 Masa Harina Noodles, 270 in Tortilla Soup, 267 nixtamalization of, 335 Pressure-Cooked Fresh-Corn Tamales, 340-341 variation, 340 corn grits. See cornmeal corn husks, dried Corn Juice Tamales, 340 Hush Puppies, 340 Pressure-Cooked Fresh-Corn Tamales, 340-341 variation, 340 source for, 75 Toasted Corn Stock, 90. See also Toasted Corn Stock corn juice Corn Juice Grits, 337 Corn Juice Tamales, 340 corn oil, smoke and flash points of, xxii cornmeal Cheese Grits, 338 Corn Juice Grits, 337 precooked, 335 Pressure-Cooked Polenta, 336-337 variation, 337 Shrimp and Grits, 338-339 variation, 338 Costco, 72 Cotija cheese Corn Juice Grits, 337 Pressure-Cooked Polenta, 336-337 variation, 337 source for, 75

XXXIII

COUNTERTOP

countertop, how to seal food in a zipÂˇtop

bag on the edge of, 58 countertop blenders, 5

crayfish meat, shells, and heads Pressure-Cooked Crustacean Butter,

122

about, 10

in Crustacean Hollandaise, 106

Amaretto Pastry Cream, 375

in Lobster Roll, 288-289

in Almond and Cherry Cream Pie, 378 brand, price, and uses of, 6

Chocolate Pastry Cream, 375 in Chocolate Cream Pie, 378 Coconut Pastry Cream, 375 in Coconut Cream Pie, 378 cutaway illustration of, 4 Firm Pastry Cream, 375 Freeze-Dried Raspberry Powder,

variations, 122 Sous Vide Crustacean Butter, 122 cream Amaretto Pastry Cream, 375

in Almond and Cherry Cream Pie, 378 Bain-Marie Creme BrU.lee, 362 Cheese Pastry Cream, 375 Chocolate Pastry Cream, 375 Coffee Creme Bn1lee, 362-363 variations, 362

Ginger Pastry Cream, 375 in Ginger Cream Pie, 378

Cream of Mushroom Soup, 150

Kerala Curry Sauce, 104

Lemon Pastry Cream, 375 in Raspberry Lemon Cream Pie,

379 Modernist Vichyssoise, 162-164 variations, 163 Mughal Curry Sauce, 104-105 in Lamb Curry, 234-235 in Pressure-Cooked Lamb

Shanks, 234 variations, 104 Muslim Curry Sauce, 104 for pan gravy, 95

Pressure-Cooked Chickpea Salad, 172-173 Pressure-Infused Coffee Pastry

Cream,37S in Banana Cream Pie, 379

Raspberry Gazpacho, 156-157 Roasted- Potato Vichyssoise, 163 Sous Vide Vanilla-Cinnamon Pastry Cream, 374-375 in Apple Cream Pie, 379 variations, 375

Ultrafrothy Milk Shake, 213 Vichyssoise with Potato Peel

Reduction, 163 countertop tools, 5-21. See also specific

tools availability of, S cost of, 5 covering brines, 16

crab shells and heads Pressure-Cooked Crustacean Butter,

122 in Crustacean Hollandaise, 106

in Lobster Roll, 288-289 variations, 122 Pressure-Cooked Crustacean Stock, 88. See also pressure cookers, Pressure-Cooked Crustacean Stock Sous Vide Crustacean Butter, 122 crabmeat

Crab Roll, 288 in Lobster Roll, 288 Pressure-Cooked Crustacean Butter,

122 in Crustacean Hollandaise, 106

in Lobster Roll, 288-289 variations, 122 Sous Vide Crustacean Butter, 122

mushrooms

Mushroom jus, 91 in Cream of Mushroom Soup, 150 in Mushroom Puree, 150 in Mushroom Soup, 180

in Shiitake Marmalade, lSI crisping foods, in a microwave oven, 43 crisps

Cheese Crisps, 315

in Chocolate Cream Pie, 378

377. See also Freeze-Dried Raspberry Powder

Grilled Applesauce, 124 in Aged White Cheddar on Sourdough with Apples, 318

creme bn1lee (continued) Coffee Creme Brulee, 362-363 variations, 362 creme p:ltissiere. See pastry cream crimini mushrooms. See also portobello

Firm Pastry Cream, 375 Ginger Pastry Cream, 375 in Ginger Cream Pie, 378

Lemon Pastry Cream, 375 in Raspberry Lemon Cream Pie,

Parmesan Crisp, 169

Crispy Beef and Shallot Salad, 353 variation, 353 Crispy Beef Strands, 352 in Crispy Beef and Shallot Salad, 353 Crispy Chicken or Pork Skin, 279 Crispy Chicken Wings, Korean-Style, 252-253 Crispy Fish Skin, 279

379 Lemon Posset, 364 Muslim Curry Sauce, 104

variations, 279

Pot de Creme, 362

Crispy Shallots, 353 Crispy Skinless Chicken Wings, 254-255

Pressure-Cooked Lobster Bisque,

cucumbers

122

African, 76 Fruit Minestrone, 158-161 variations, 161

Pressure-Infused Coffee Pastry

Cream, 375

Fruit Salad, 161 in Vacuum-Pickled Vegetables, 130

in Banana Cream Pie, 379

Raspberry Panna Cotta, 366-367 variation, 366 Sous Vide Vanilla Creme Anglaise,

368-369

Cuisinart immersion blender, 6 culatello, Hawaiian Pizza, 303 cumin

Chaat Masala, 136 MCCurry Powder, 135. See also MCCurry Powder

variation, 369 So us Vide Vanilla-Cinnamon Pastry

Cream, 374-375 in Apple Cream Pie, 379

source for, 74

Vindaloo Spice Mix, 135 in Pork Vindaloo with Naan, 221

variations, 375

Strawberry Panna Cotta, 161 Vegetarian Panna Cotta, 366

cures

cream cheese

Baked Mac and Cheese, 312-313 Corn Juice Grits, 337 Pressure-Cooked Polenta, 336-337 variation, 337 cream infusions, how to make, 361 Cream of Mushroom Soup, 150 cream pies

Almond and Cherry Cream Pie, 378 Apple Cream Pie, 376, 379 Banana Cream Pie, 377,379 Chocolate Cream Pie, 376,378

about, 193 brines vs., 132

Fish Cure, 133 sa lt in, scaling for amount of, 208 sa lting meat vs. curing and, 132 currants, wild, 78 curry leaves

Kerala Curry Sauce, 104 source for, 74 curry sauces

Kerala Curry Sauce, 104 Mughal Curry Sauce, 104-105 in Lamb Curry, 234-235

Coconut Cream Pie, 378

Ginger Cream Pie, 377, 378 Raspberry Lemon Cream Pie, 377, 379 Savory Cheese Pie, 379 Creamed Spinach, 194, 199 in Florentine Omelet Filling, 145 in Mac and Parmesan, 314

in Pressure-Cooked Lamb

Shanks, 234 variations, 104

Muslim Curry Sauce, 104 custards

Bain-Marie Creme Brulee, 362 Coffee Creme Brulee, 362-363

variation, 199 creativity, as Modernist cuisine principle, xix creme anglaise

about,360 So us Vide Vanilla Creme Anglaise, 368-369

variations, 362

Flan, 362 Pot de Creme, 362 Sous Vide Vanilla Creme Anglaise, 368-369 variation, 369 cutaway illustration s

of a blender, 4 of a charcoal grill, 46-47 of a household stove, 36-37 of an induction cooktop, 25

variation, 369 creme brutee

about,360 Bain-Marie Creme BrU.Iee, 362

XXXIV

INDEX

cutaway illustrations (continued)

of a meat grinder, 206 of a microwave oven, 42-43 of a pressure cooker, 30-31 of a slow cooker, 48 of a vacuum sealer, 55

of a whipping siphon, 19 cutting boards, cross-contamination by, preventing, xxiv

EGGS

D dates Chinese, 76 Lamb Curry, 234-235 Deep-Dish Fried Pizza, 305 deep-frying about, 27 to brown steak, 193

safety tips for, 26 sc ience of, 249 searing foods cooked sous vide with,

51 thermometer for, 8 without a deep fryer, how to, 27

deep-frying setup Beef Short Ribs with Shiitake Marmalade, 263

Bok Choy Medley, 346 Cinnamon-Sugar Doughnut Holes,

297 Crispy Beef and Shallot Salad, 353 variation, 353 Crispy Chicken Wings, KoreanStyle, 252- 253 Crispy Shallots, 353 Crispy Skinless Chicken Wings,

254- 255 Deep-Fried Chicken, 241 Deep-Fried Tsukune Skewers, 262 Garlic Knots, 297 Hush Puppies, 340 Korean Pork Belly Skewers, 262 Modernist Meatloaf Sandwich,

214-215 Pressure-Cooked Chicharr6n, 219, 222

SousVideSteak, 192,194- 195 defrosting, with a microwave oven, 41

dehydrating food in a com hi oven, 39 in a conventional oven, 222 dried meat and, 350 in a microwave oven, 41

dehydrators. See food dehydrators delicata squash, Squash Soup, 180 in Arborio Rice with Caramelized

Squash and Saffron, 330 depressurizing pressure cookers, 33

Deviled Eggs, 152 diastatic malt powder about, 71

Modernist Vichyssoise, 162-164 variations, 163 Roasted-Potato Vichyssoise, 163 Vichyssoise with Potato Peel Reduction, 163

digital scales about, xx, S, 7 accuracy of, 7 brands, price, and uses of, 6 care of, 7 how to tare, 7 kitchen, standard, 7

pocket, 7 digital temperature controllers, with rice cooker, for water bath, 65 digital thermometers about, xx, S, 8 brand, price, and uses of, 6 checking temperature while cooking

digital thermometers (continued) avoiding contaminating food with

probe and, 67 in a vacuum-sealed bag, 67

in a zip-top bag, 66 for deep-frying, 8, 26

Earl Grey Tea Infusion, 361 Eating Quality Assured (Australia), 190

how to test accuracy of, 8 for improvised water baths, 64 infrared, 8 instant-read, 8 with oven probe. See digital thermometers, with oven probe

edamame, in Broccoli with Cheese Sauce, 310 edge sealers, 52, 53, 54. See also vacuum sea lers

bags for, 53, 54 how to use, 56 efficiency of stoves, 24

safety tips for using, 67 thermocouple, 8 digital thermometers, with oven probe about, 8 calibrating oven using, 34

of water baths, 24 egg whites Deviled Eggs, 152 Eggs Sunny-Side Up, 152- 153

Combi Oven Roast Chicken, 241 Extra-Juicy Chicken, 241

variation, 152 temperatures and times for cooking,

Frozen Steak, 197

142-143 egg yolks Aioli, 108

Low-Temp Oven Steak, 196-197 variation, 197

Pincushion Chicken, 241 Roast Chicken, 238-241

Amaretto Pastry Cream, 375

in Almond and Cherry Cream Pie, 378

variations, 241

Slow-Baked Chicken with Onions, 242-243 Spatchcock Chicken, 241 dill,354 in Microwave-Fried Parsley, 354

Bacon Mayonnaise, 108

in Microwaved Potato Salad, 346 in Pork Belly B.L.T., 232- 233 in Smoked Bacon B.L.T., 232

dish towels, contamination by, xxiv dishes, for use in microwave ovens, 42 dishwashers, sanitizing with, xxiv

Bain -Marie Creme BrU.lee, 362

Double Almond Crust, 372 in Almond and Cherry Cream Pie, 378 dough

in Apple Cream Pie, 379 Buffalo Sauce, 258

Barley Noodles, 271 Brown Butter Crust, 372

Carrot Crust, 372

Cheese Crust, 372 in Savory Cheese Pie, 379 Cheese Pastry Cream, 375 Chocolate Crust, 372

fermentation of, to achieve flavor,

300 how to knead by hand, 298 pizza. See pizza dough

in Chocolate Cream Pie, 378

Chocolate Pastry Cream, 375

science of kneading, 295 doughnut holes, Cinnamon-Sugar

in Chocolate Cream Pie, 378 Coconut Crust, 372 in Coconut Cream Pie, 378

Doughnut Holes, 297 dragon fruit, 76 dressings. See also mayonnaise; vinaigrettes Sesame Dressing, 117

Coconut Noodles, 271 in Thai Soup, 267 Coconut Pastry Cream, 375 in Coconut Cream Pie, 378

Spiced Chili Dressing, 117 Vietnamese-Style Dressing, 117 Dried Caramelized Onions, 127 drum sieves, 17

Coffee Creme Brillee, 362-363 variations, 362

dry-aged beef, 186 drying food. See dehydrating food dry-rendering fats, 123 duck breast, best bets for cooking, 245 Game Bird jus, 92 legs best bets for cooking, 245

Double Almond Crust, 372 in Almond and Cherry Cream Pie, 378 Egg-Yolk Fluid Gel, 100 as emulsifiers, 117 Firm Burger Patty, 208

Crustacean Hollandaise, 106

Firm Pastry Cream, 375

Flaky Pie Crust, 372-373

Braised Duck with Steamed Buns,

variations, 372

Foamed Lemon Curd, 365 French Scrambled Eggs, 144

221 source for, 74

in Striped Mushroom Omelet,

duck fat

148-149

smoke and flash points of, xxii

variations, 144

Turkey Confit, 246 dumpling squash, 77

Fruit Curds, 365 Garlic Hollandaise, 106

durian

photograph of, 76 source for, 75

Lemon Pastry Cream, 375 in Raspberry Lemon Cream Pie,

379 Mini Egg Cups, 144 Modernist Mayonnaise, 108 in Sweet Onion Slaw, 165 variations, 108 Montpellier Butter, 120

in Filet Mignon with Montpellier Butter, 263 Olive Oil Scrambled Eggs, 144 in Espagnole Omelet Filling, 145 Peanut Crust, 372 in Banana Cream Pie, 379

Pot de Creme, 362 Pressure-Infused Coffee Pastry

Cream, 375 in Banana Cream Pie, 379

Raspberry Crust, 372 Rouille, 108 in South of France Chowder, 292 Sabayon, 369 Scrambled Egg Pudding, 144 in Steamed Herb Omelet,

146-147 Sous Vide Hollandaise, 106-107 variations, 106

So us Vide Lemon Curd, 365 in Lemon Posset, 364 in Raspberry Lemon Cream Pie,

379 variations, 365 Sous Vide Vanilla Creme Anglaise,

368-369 variation, 369 Sous Vide Vanilla-Cinnamon Pastry

Cream, 374-375 in Apple Cream Pie, 379 variations, 375

Spicy Hollandaise, 106 Striped Mushroom Omelet, 148-149 Tartar Sauce, 108 temperatures and times for cooking,

141, 142-143 eggplant Chinese

photograph of, 77 source for, 74 Microwaved Eggplant Parmesan,

344-345 Thai photograph of, 77 source for, 75

eggs about, 141 as gels, science of, 141

peeling with a blowtorch, 15 quail source for, 74 Uovo Pizza, 307 temperatures and times for cooking,

141, 142-143 textures of, 142-143 whites of. See egg whites whole. See eggs, whole yolks of. See egg yolks eggs, whole

Ginger Pastry Cream, 375 in Ginger Cream Pie, 378

Camembert and Gruyere on Brioche with Ham and Mushrooms, 318

Gingerbread Crust, 372

Cheese Grits, 338 Deviled Eggs, 152 Eggs Sunny-Side Up, 152-153

in Ginger Cream Pie, 378

sous vide with, S1, 66-67

egg yolks (continued)

variation, 152

IN 0 EX

XXXV

EGGS

eggs, whole (contiâ&#x20AC;˘IUed) Flan, 362 French Scrambled Eggs, 144 in Striped Mushroom Omelet,

148- 149 variations, 144

F Fagor pressure cookers, 6, 28, 29 fans, to increase temperature of charcoal

Fresh Egg Noodles, 268-271 in Chicken Noodle Soup, 273 var iations, 270-271

grill, 44,47 Grilled Pork Chop, 202 farmed salmon, 281

Green Salad with Romaine Dressing,

farmers' markets, 72 farm-to-table movement, 69 farro

168- 169 va riations, 168

Instant Chocolate Sponge, 356-357 variations, 357

Masa Harina Noodles, 270 in Tortilla Soup, 267 Mini Egg Cups, 144 Olive Oil Scrambled Eggs, 144 in Espagnole Omelet Filling, 145 Peanut Butter Sponge, 357 Potato Noodles, 270 Raspberry Macadamia Nut Sponge, 357 Raviolo Omelet Filling, 145 Rice Noodles, 271 Rye Noodles, 270 Scrambled Egg Pudding, 144 in Steamed Herb Omelet,

146- 147 Sesame Sponge, 357

Shrimp and Grits, 338-339 variation, 338 Steamed Herb Omelet, 146- 147 Striped Mushroom Omelet, 148-149 Whole Wheat Noodles, 271 in Chinese Soup, 267

cooking times for, 324

fish (continued) varieties of, for making fish stock1 87

fish bones Brown Fish Stock, 87 So us Vide Fish Stock, 87 in Arborio Rice with Sea Urchin

and Cocoa, 333 in Bell Pepper Soup, 181 variation, 87

Fish Brine, 133 variations, 133

Fish Cure, 133 fish sauce

Crispy Beef Strands, 352 in Crispy Beef and Shallot Salad, 353 Pho Soup, 267 Pressure-Cooked Pork Belly Adobo, 224-225

Farro with Chicken, Artichokes,

and Black Olives, 332 parcooking times fo r, 325

The Fat Duck (restaurant), xv "Fat-Free" Mac and Cheese, 314-315 variations, 314 fats. See also oils adding at last minute, 93 animal, xxii. See also specific animal

variation, 224 source for, 75

Sous Vide Pork Belly Adobo, 224 Spiced Chili Dressing, 117 Thai Soup, 267

fats smoke and flash points of, xxii

Vietnamese Marinade, 134

dry-rendering, 123 flavor and, science of, 155

functions of, 116 mouthfeel and, 116, 155

Vietnamese-Style Dressing, 117 fish skin, in fish stock, 87 Fish Spice Mix, 137 in Fragrant Sous Vide Salmon,

wet-rendering, 123

FDA (U.S. Food and Drug Adm in istration) cooking temperature guidelines of,

276-277 fish stock

xxv, 245, 274 food storage guidelines of, 54 fecal matter, contamination due to, preventing, xxiv fennel, Finocchiona Pizza, 307 fermented black bean and chili paste

and Cocoa, 333 in Bell Pepper Soup, 181

egg yolks as, 117 emulsions

breaking of, solution for, 311 cheese as, 308 mayonnaise as, 108

equi librium cooking, 60-61 cooking time with, 60-61 for frozen food s, 61 water bath temperature for, 60

Vegetable Con fit, 319 fibrous vegetables, best bets for cooking in the microwave oven, 347

fiddlehead ferns, 78-79 fiddlehead Lady ferns, 79 Field Guide to Edible Wild Pla11ts (Angier), 79 Filet Mignon with Montpellier Butter, 263

finishing nails, Pincushion Chicken, 241

Escoffier, Auguste, xviii Le Guide Culinaire, xiv escolar, in Sous Vide Tuna Confit, 174

finishing step, 93

Espagnole Omelet Filling, 145

Finocchiona Pizza, 307 fires. See also blowtorches; charcoal

361 to enhance flavor of juices, 20 lemon. See lemon essential oil mandarin, as flavoring for milk or cream infusions, 361 ethnic ingredients, 74-75 Europe, meat grades in, 190

"Everything Pretzels," 297 Excalibur food dehydrator, 6 Extra-Juicy Chicken, 241

223 Flaky Pie Crust, 372-373 variations, 372

flan about, 360 Flan,362 flash point, of oils, xxii flavorful oils, xxii-xxiii flavorings, for milk or cream infusions,

361 flavors

adding before cooking so us vide, 50 adding wood chips to grill for, 45 of beef feed and, 191 toughness and, 188

Butter, 11 7 Fingerling Potatoes Con fit, 126

Escali digital scale, 6

essential o ils bergamot, Earl Grey Tea In fusion,

variation, 87 flageolet beans, in Refried Bean Foam,

Fines Herbes Vinaigrette with Pistachio

briquettes vs. hardwood charcoal and,45 of carrots, 178

how to parcook and finish risotto

and paella, 325

grills; gas grills; open flame grease1 extinguishing, 26

Firm Burger Patty, 208 Firm Pastry Cream, 375 fish. See also specific varieties offish

in Thai Soup, 267 making cheese sauce with, 308 potato, Potato Noodles, 270 quinoa, Quinoa Pizza Dough, 296 rice, Rice Noodles, 271 sources for, 74,270 whole wheat . See whole wheat flour Wondra. See Wondra

00 flour. See 00 flour fluid gels Egg-Yolk Flu id Gel, 100 how to make, 98 Onion Fluid Gel, 100 variation, 100

quick-set, 98 fluke, best bets for cooking sous vide,

281 Fluke thermom ete r, 6

Apple Foam, 376 in Apple Cream Pie, 379 bursting bubbles on, with a

blowtorch, 15 foam ing with a whipping siphon and, 19 lightness of, water bath temperature

and, 106 powdered soy lecithin for, 93 Refried Bean Foam, 223 variations, 223

Sabayon, 369 Strawberry Juice with Green Apple Foam, 161 fond, 95 Fondue, 310 fontina cheese Mac and Fontina, 314 Mac with Gorgonzola and Fontina,

310 food dehydrators about, 21 brand, price, and uses of, 6 correct use of, 21 Dried Caramelized Onions, 127

Fruit Leather, 129 Mango Chili Leather, 129

science of, 155 as vehicle, 116 fermentation of dough to achieve, 300

222 Puffed Chicken Skin, 254 safety tips for, 21 Tomato Leather, 129 in Lobster Roll, 288-289

best bets for, 281

infusing, science of, 264 of juices, essential oils to enhance, 20

core temperature for, 64, 281

in lobster shells, 122, 282

curing before grilling, 47 safe handling of, xxv

oils and, as vehicle, 116 searing foods cooked sous vide for, 51

susta inably farmed, xix1 72

of sourdough, 299

IN 0 EX

296 coconut, Coconut Noodles, 271

Onion Leather, 129 Pressure-Cooked Chicharr6n, 219,

in stocks, 84, 89

XXXVI

buckwheat, Buckwheat Pizza Dough,

cooling cooked food and, 61 fat and

grilled, how to impart, 47 of grilled food, 44

cooking so us vide

barley, Barley Noodles, 271 bread, Pool ish, 299 in Rustic Pizza Dough, 298 in Whole Wheat Pizza Dough, 298

foams

electric pressure cookers, 29 electric stoves, 24 Electrolux combi ovens, 38 electromagnetic waves, in microwave ovens, 42 elevation, high, boiling point of water

at, 30

flour almond. See almond flour

Foamed Lemon Curd, 365

in Arborio Rice with Sea Urchin

Emmental cheese, Fondue, 310 emu lsifiers. See also sodium citrate; soy lecithin, liquid; soy lecithin powder

Florentine Omelet Filling, 145

87 Brown Fish Stock, 87 fish skin in, 87 So us Vide Fish Stock, 87

feed, of cattle, 191

variation s, 346 sources for, 74, 75 feta cheese, Feta Cheese Slice, 319 in Feta on Potato Bread with

tempe rature and, science of, 155 of vacuum-sealed foods, 54

bottled clam juice as substitute for,

egullet.org, 72

Sichuan Bok Choy, 346-347

flavors (conti11ued)

variations, 129

food forums, 72 food presses, 20 food processors

about, 10 Brown Butter Crust, 372

in Apple Cream Pie, 379

GOLDEN ENOKI MUSHROOM

food processors (continued) Brown C hicken Stock, 85 in Aromatic Chicken Broth, 266 in Brown C hicken Jus, 92 in Pressure-Cooked Paella del Bosco, 326-327 Carrot Crust, 372 C heese Cru mble, 316 in Baked Mac and Cheese, 312-313 Cheese Crust, 372 in Savory Cheese Pie, 379 Chervil, Thyme, and Scallion Pesto, 102, 103 C hocolate Crust, 372 in Chocolate Cream Pie, 378 Cil ant ro Pes ta, 103 Coconut Crust, 372 in Coconut Cream Pie, 378 Corn Juice Tamales, 340 Double Almond Crust, 372 in Almond and Cherry Cream Pie,378 Flaky Pie Crust, 372-373 variations, 372 Freeze-Dried Raspberry Powder, 377. See also Freeze-Dried Raspberry Powder Fresh Egg Nood les, 268-271 in Chicken Noodle Soup, 273 variations, 270- 271 Gingerbread Crust, 372 in Ginger Cream Pie, 378 Green Onion and So rrel Pes to, 102, 103 for pan gravy, 95 Peanut Crust, 372 in Banana Cream Pie, 379 Pistachio Pesta, 102-103. See also pistachios, Pistachio Pesta Pressure-Cooked Fresh-Corn Tamales, 340-341 variation, 340 Press ure-Cooked White Chicken Stock, 84-85, 247 in Aromatic Chicken Broth, 266 in Sous Vide Braised Snails, 293 variation, 85 Raspberry Crust, 372 Roasted Red Pepper Pes to, I 03 Sauce Verte, 102, 103 Spinach Pesto, 103 food safety, xxiv-xxv. See also safe ty tips cooki ng fish and, 274 cooling cooked food and, 61 hold -at-temperature sous vide cooking to pasteurize food and, 61 hygiene and, xxiv ingredients and, xxiv-xxv oflightly cooked food, xxv with meat tenderi zer, xxiv-xxv, 16 for poultry holding food target temperature for, 60 safe cooking of poultry and, 245 Food Saver edge sealers, 54 FoodSaver vacuum sealers, 6 forbidd en rice cook ing times for, 324 Fo rbidden Rice with Squid Ink and Sous Vide Clams, 330 parcooking times for, 325 forced-convection ovens, 34 fragrant pear, 76

Fragrant Sous Vide Salmon, 137, 276-277 Freeze-Dried Raspberry Powder, 377 in Raspberry Crust, 372 in Raspberry Lemon Cream Pie, 379 in Raspberry Macadamia Nut Sponge, 357 in Ultrafrothy Milk Shake, 213 freezer, organization of, xx iv freezing of meat, before cooking, 193, 200 of meta l baking sheet, for cooling rice, 325, 326,329 French Onion Soup, 127 French presses Aromatic Chicken Broth, 266 in C hicken Noodle Soup, 273 Chinese Soup, 267 Goulash Broth, 267 for infusing flavors, 264 Pho Soup, 267 Thai Soup, 267 Tortilla Soup, 267 French Scrambled Eggs, 144 in Striped Mushroom Omelet, 148-149 variations, 144 Fresh Egg Noodles, 268-271 in Chicken Noodle Soup, 273 variations, 270-271 Fresh Meals Solutions d igital t emp erature controller, 65 freshness of juices, maintaining, 20 of shellfish, 284 fried chicken mushrooms, 78 frozen foods, cooking sous v ide, 61 Frozen Steak, 197 fruit curds Foamed Lemon Curd, 365 Fruit Curds, 365 Sous Vide Lemon Curd, 365 in Lemon Posset, 364 in Raspberry Lemon Cream Pie, 379 va riation s, 365 Fruit J ellies, 366 fruit leather Fruit Leather, 129 tender, 21 Fruit Minestrone, 158- 161 variations, 161 Fruit Salad, 161 fruits. See also specific fruits contami nat ion of, xxiv how to compress for vacuum sealing, 59 unusual, 76 Fruity Pebbles Infusion, 361 frying deep-frying. See deep-frying; deep-fryi ng set up with a microwave oven, 41 pan frying, 27 shallow, 27 frying pans. See cast-iron skillets; nonstick frying pans Funghi Pizza, 303

G Gaggenau combi ovens, 38

galangal about, ll1 photograph of, 77 Pressure-Caramelized Peanut Sauce, Ill, 259 in C hicken Breast Satay, 263 so urce for, 75 Thai Soup, 267 Game Bird Jus, 92 ga rbanzo beans. See chickpeas ga rlic abou t, 79 Chili Spice Mix, 138 in Crispy Skinless Chicken Wings, 254-255 Chinese Garlic Chili Condiment, 258,261 Garlic Hollandaise, 106 Garlic Knots, 297 Garlic Oil, 118 Pressure-Cooked Garlic Con fit, 126 in Achiote Paste, 219 inAioli, 108 in Broccoli Raab Pizza, 306 in Caramelized Onion Gravy, 10 1 in Creamed Spinach, 194, 199 in Garlic Holla ndaise, 106 in Garlic Mashed Potatoes, 230 in Montpellier Butter, 120 in Rouille, 108 in South Indian Watercress, 199 in Stee l-Cut Oats with Sous Vide Braised Snails, 331 variation s, 126 in Vegetable Stew, 185 Pressure-Cooked Vegetable Jus, 182 in Vegetable Stew, 185 Proven<;al Garlic Con fit, 126 Rouille, in South of France Chowder, 292 garlic black bea n sauce, in Sichuan Bok Choy, 346-347 garlic chives Rye Noodles, 270 source for, 74 garlic shoots, 79 gas grills, 44 ga s s toves, 24 gaskets, of pressure cooke rs, 33 Gates, Bill, xiv gazpacho about, ISS Raspberry Gazpacho, 156-157 gelatin Apple Foam, 376 in Apple Cream Pie, 379 Firm Pastry Cre am, 375 Fruit J ellies, 366 gelling strengths of, 366 kinds of, 366 measuring, 366 Montpellier Butter, 120 in Filet Mignon w ith Montpellier Butter, 263 Raspberry Panna Cotta, 366-367 variation, 366 softening, 366,375 Strawberry Panna Cotta, 161

INDEX

ge lato about, 360 Hazelnut Gelato, 370 P. B.&]. Gelato, 370 Pistachio Gelato, 370-371 variation s, 370 Strawberry Macadamia Gelato, 370 ge lling, problems with, solutions to, 99 ge ls dairy, ac id for making, 364 eggs as, science of, 141 fluid. See fluid gels how to make, 98 posse! as, 364 quick-set method for, 100 semisolid, 98 starch and, 320 Genovese Pizza, 306 geoduck, 69 ghee how to make, 119 Kerala Cu rry Sauce, 104 Mughal Curry Sauce, 104-105 in Lamb Curry, 234-235 in Pressure-Cooked Lamb Shanks, 234 variations, 104 Muslim Curry Sauce, 104 source for, 74 gherkins, Tartar Sauce, 108 Ghigiarell i fam ily, 305 gigante beans, in Refried Bean Foam, 223 ginger Aromatic Microwaved Cod, 348 Ginge r C rea m Pie, 377, 378 Ginger Oil, 11 8 Ginger Pastry Cream, 375 in Ginger Cream Pie, 378 Lemongrass Ginger Infusion, 361 Microwaved Black Cod with Scallions and Ginger, 348-349 variations, 348 Microwaved Sea Bass, Tilapia, H a libut, or Sole, 348, 349 ginger buds, 77 Gingerbread Crust, 372 in Ginger Cream Pie, 378 glazes Pass ion Fruit Glaze, 376 in Coconut Cream Pie, 378 Red Wine Glaze, 97 in Braised Short Ribs, 228, 229 Thai Sweet, Sour, and Savory Glaze, 115 glu ten. See also vital wheat gluten pi zza crust and, 295 goat cheese Cherv il, Thyme, and Scallion Pes to, 102, 103 Goat Cheese Slice, 319 in Goat Cheese on Baguette with Tomato Confit and Basil, 319 Mac with Goat Gouda and Cheddar, 310 gobo, 77 gochujang Ka lbi Marinade, 134 Korean Wing Sauce, 258, 260. See also Korean Wing Sauce source for, 75 gold gelatin, 366 go ld en chanterelles, 78 golden enoki mu shroom, front endpaper, 77

XXXV II

GORGONZOLA CHEESE

Gorgonzola cheese Mac with Gorgonzola and Fontina,

310 Roasted Red Pepper Pesto, 103 Gouda cheese goat, Mac with Goat Gouda and

Cheddar, 310 Pressure-Cooked Risotto, 329 Spinach Pesto, 103 Vegetable Risotto, 328-329 variation, 329

Goulash Broth, 267 grains. See also specific grains cooking times for, 324 parcooking times for, 325 source for, 75 Grana Padano cheese, Arborio Rice with

Caramelized Squash and Saffron, 330 grape juice, P. B.&]. Gelato, 370 grapefruit Arborio Rice with Sea Urchin and

Cocoa,333 Fruit Curds, 365 grapeseed oil

Basic Chili Oil, 118 Garlic Oil, 118 Ginger Oil, 118 Lemon Oil, 118 Pressure-Cooked Spiced Chili Oil, 118 Rosemary Oil, 118 smoke and flash points of, xxii

So us Vide Lemon Herb Oil, 116 Sous Vide Spiced Chili Oil, 118 Thyme Oil, 118 Vanilla Oil, 118 grass-fed beef, 191 gravy Caramelized Onion Gravy, 101 pan, full-flavored, how to make, 95 Pressure-Cooked Drippings, 101 variation, 101 Redeye Gravy, 96 in Shrimp and Grits, 338-339 thickening with Wondra, 95 gray chanterelles, 79 grease fires, extinguishing, 26

grills charcoal. See charcoal grills

gas, 44 grits. See cornmeal grouse, Game Bird Jus, 92 growing your own food, 73 Gruyere cheese

Baked Mac and Cheese, 312-313 Barley with Wild Mushrooms and Red Wine, 331 Broccoli~Gruyere

Soup, 181 Camembert and Gruyere Cheese

H habaiiero peppers, Achiote Paste, 219 in Pressure-Cooked Carnitas,

218-219 Haden mango, 76 hair dryers, to increase temperature of

charcoal grill, 44, 47, 202 Grilled Pork Chop, 202 halibut

Slice, 318 in Camembert and Gruyere on Brioche with Ham and Mushrooms, 318

Cheese Crumble, 316 in Baked Mac and Cheese,

best bets for cooking sous vide, 281 Microwaved Sea Bass, Tilapia,

Halibut, or Sole, 348, 349 in Sous Vide Tuna Con fit, 174 bam. See also cu latello; pancetta; prosciutto

Alsatian Omelet Filling, 145 Bok Choy Medley, 346

312-313 Cheese Pastry Cream, 375

"Fat-Free" Mac and Cheese, 314-315 variations, 314 Mac and Gruyere, 310

Perfectly Melting Cheese Slice, 317 in French Onion Soup, 127 in Modernist Cheeseburger, 212 in Tuna Con fit Salad and Tuna Melt Sandwich, 174 Le Guide Culinaire (Escoffier), xiv gun~style

meat injectors, 16

Camembert and Gruyere on Brioche w ith Ham and Mushrooms, 318 hamburger, Modernist Cheeseburger,

212 hamburger patties, square, how to form,

207 hand washing, xxiv

handheld blenders. See immersion blenders handheld pumps how to use, 59

and Asparagus, 332 Green Salad with Romaine Dressing,

168-169

seasonal, in Vegetable Stew, 185 griddles,

cast~iron,

XXXVIII

in Gingerbread Crust, 372 Chili Spice Mix, 138 in Crispy Skinless Chicken Wings, 254-255 Grilling Spice Mix, 139 honey vinegar, Pressure-Cooked Quinoa Salad with Cauliflower,

170-171 hot tubs, using as water bath, 65

How To bake salmon in a toaster oven, 278 brine salmon in a kitchen sink, 278 calibrate a conventional oven, 35

check the core temperature, 66-67 in a vacuum-sealed bag, 67

in a zip-top bag, 66 compress fruits and vegetables, 59

deep-fry without a deep fryer, 27 dress a salad, 167

form a square hamburger patty, 207 grind meat like a pro, 206 kill and shell a lobster, 284-285 knead dough by hand, 298 make clarified butter and brown

butter, 119 make full-flavored pan gravy, 95 make gels and fluid gels, 98

harvesting, sustainable, xix, 72 Hawaiian Pizza, 303 H awking, Stephen, xiv

poach salmon in a kitchen sink, 278 pressure-cook risotto and paella, 324 scale a recipe, xx

make a pizza, 302-303 parcook and finish risotto and paella,

325

hazelnut butter, Hazelnut Gelato, 370

seal food in a zip-top bag, 58

hazelnut oil

shuck clams, 287

Hazelnut Gelato, 370 Peanut Butter Sponge, 357 smoke point of, xxi ii in Sous Vide Tuna Confit, 174 hazelnuts Chervil, Thyme, and Scallion Pesto,

102, 103 Fish Spice Mix, 137 in Fragrant So us Vide Salmon,

shuck mussels, 286 tare a digital scale, 7 test the accuracy of a thermometer, 8 use an edge sealer, 56

use a handheld pump, 59 use a pressure cooker, 32-33

use a whipping siphon, 18-19 humane raising/slaughtering of animals, xix, 73,237

humidity

276-277 hedgehog mushrooms, 78, 79 Herb and Romaine Broth, 168 herbs. See also specific herbs timing of chopping, 167

poolish and, 299 Hush Puppies, 340

high elevation, boiling point of water at,

hygiene, xx iv

bigh~temperature thermometers, 8 hoisin sauce, Sichuan Bok Choy,

346-347 variations, 346

hold-at-temperature cooking, 61 holding times, for sous vide cooking, 51 hollandaise sauce

about, 83

for baking pizza, 301

Grilled Applesauce, 124 in Aged White Cheddar on Sourdough with Apples, 318 Grilled Pork Chop, 202 Grilled Steak, 200-201 grilling. See also charcoal grills; gas grills indirect or banked, 45, 193 Grilling Spice Mix, 139

Autumn Spice Mix, 138

make a milk or cream infusion, 361

var iations, 168 green tea, matcha, 74 Green Tea Flavoring, 361 greens. See also specific greens leafy, best bets for cooking in the microwave oven, 347

honey powder

ported bags for use with, 53, 59 handheld whisks, 11 Eggs Sunny-Side Up, 152-153 hardwood, for charcoal grill, 45

green beans, in Broccoli with Cheese Sauce, 310 green cardamom pods. See cardamom pods, green green onions. See scallions green peas, Quinoa with Pistachio Pes to

Honey Flavoring, 361 Honey Mustard Sauce, 259

Crustacean Hollandaise, 106 Garlic Hollandaise, 106

So us Vide Hollandaise, 106-107 variations, 106

Spicy Hollandaise, 106 Home Jus Gras, 93 variation, 93 hon shimeji mushrooms, 77

IN DE X

in combi ovens, 38 in conventional ovens, 34

JUS

immersion blenders (continued)

Stove-Top Carotene Butter, 116, 121

Eggs Sunny-Side Up, 152-153

in Caramelized Carrot Soup,

variation, 152

178-179

Feta Cheese Slice, 319

ice chests

Sous Vide Steak in a Cooler, I 98 usingaswaterbath, 64, 193 ice-cream machines

about, 12 Hazelnut Gelato, 370 P. B. &J. Gelato, 370 Pistachio Gelato, 370-371 variations, 370

Strawberry Macadamia Gelato, 370 ice-water baths

Bok Choy Medley, 346 Braised Short Ribs, 228, 229 Chervil, Thyme, and Scallion Pesta,

102, 103 Cilantro Pesta, 103

Combi Oven Roast Chicken, 241 to cool cooked foods for storage, 61

variations, 121 Strawberry Macadamia Gelato, 370

in Feta on Potato Bread with

Vegetable Confit, 319

Ultrastable Butter Sauce, 93 Vietnamese-Style Dressing, I I 7

Fines Herbes Vinaigrette with Pistachio Butter, 117

Flan, 362 fluid gels, 98 French Scrambled Eggs, 144 in Striped Mushroom Omelet, 148-149 variations, 144

Goat Cheese Slice, 319 in Goat Cheese on Baguette with

Tomato Confit and Basil, 319 Hazelnut Gelato, 370 Home Jus Gras, 93 variation, 93

Mac and Cheese, 310-311 variation, 310

impulse sealers, 56 Indian markets, 74 indirect grilling, 45 induction cooktops, 24-25 cutaway illustration of, 25 infrared thermometers, 8 Infused-Cream Potato Puree, 230 infusions infusing with a whipping siphon and, 18. See also pressure-infusing milk or cream, how to make, 361 science of, 264

ingredients, 69-79. See also specific h1gredients ethnic, 74-75 foraged foods as, 78-79

Deep-Fried Chicken, 241 Extra-Juicy Chicken, 241 freezing lobster, 286

Mac and Gruyere, 310 Mac with Goat Gouda and Cheddar, 310

Green Onion and Sorrel Pesta, 102,

Mac with Gorgonzola and Fontina,

Modernist, 69,70-71

103 Grilled Applesauce, 124 in Aged White Cheddar on Sourdough with Apples, 318 Modernist Vichyssoise, 162- 164 variations, 163

310 Mac with Jack and Stilton, 310 Mac with Sharp Cheddar and Swiss, 310 Mini Egg Cups, 144

movements affecting, 69 originating in food science and technology, xix prepared, 83. See also brines; condiments; fats; gravy; jus; marinades; oils; sauces; spice mixes; stocks versatility of, 83 quality of, xix regional authenticity of, 69 seasona l composing salads and, 166

Pincushion Chicken, 241

Pistachio Pesto, 102-I 03. See also pistachios, Pistachio Pes to

Roast Chicken, 238-241 variations, 241

Roasted Red Pepper Pesto, 103 Roasted-Potato Vichyssoise, 163

Sauce Verte, 102, 103 Spatchcock Chicken, 241 Spinach Pesto, 103 Ultrafrothy Milk Shake, 213 Vichyssoise with Potato Peel Reduction, 163 immersion blenders

about, II Aged White Cheddar Cheese Slice, 318 in Aged White Cheddar on Sourdough with Apples, 318 Bain-Marie Creme Bn1lee, 362 Baked Mac and Cheese, 312-313 Bell Pepper Butter, 121 brands, price, and uses of, 6 Broccoli with Cheese Sauce, 310 Camembert and Gruyere Cheese

Slice, 318 in Camembert and Gruyere on Brioche with Ham and Mushrooms, 318

Cheese Crumble, 316 in Baked Mac and Cheese, 312-313 Cheese Pastry Cream, 375 Cherry Vinaigrette, II 7 Cilantro Vinaigrette, 117 Clams in Chowder Sauce, 292 variations, 292 Coffee Butter, 121 Coffee Creme Brulee, 362-363 variations, 362 Deviled Eggs, 152

growing one's own, 73

Modernist Vinaigrette, 117 in Pressure-Cooked Lentil Salad,

175 variations, 117

Montpellier Butter, 120 in Filet Mignon with Montpellier

Butter, 263 Olive Oil Scrambled Eggs, 144 in Espagnole Omelet Filling, 145 Onion Fluid Gel, 100 variation, 100

Oyster Stew, 292 for pan gravy, 95 P. B. &J. Gelato, 370 Perfectly Melting Cheese Slice, 317 in French Onion Soup, 127 in Modernist Cheeseburger, 212 in Tuna Con fit Salad and Tuna

Melt Sandwich, I 74 Pistachio Clam Chowder, 292 Pistachio Gelato, 370-371 variations, 370

Popcorn Infusion, 361 Porcini Butter, 116, 121

Pot de Creme, 362 Pressure-Cooked Chickpea Salad, 172-173 Salsa Verde, I I I Scrambled Egg Pudding, 144 in Steamed Herb Omelet,

greens, in Vegetable Stew, 185 sources for, XIX, 70, 72-73

unusual, 70-71,76-77 injectors. See brine injectors and syringes Insta Cure #I about, 71 Pork Belly B.L.T., 232-233 Instant Chocolate Sponge, 356-357 variations, 357 instant-read thermometers, 8 checking core temperature in a

zip-top bag using, 66 Institute of Culinary Education, xv Internet for information about sources of ingredients, 73 online food forums, 72 vendors on, 72 invention, as Modernist cuisine principle, xix iota carrageenan. See carrageenan, iota and kappa iron frying pans. See cast-iron skillets

iron griddles, for baking pizza, 301, 304 iSi whipping siphon, 6 Italian parsley, 354 Sauce Verte, 102, 103

146-147 Sesame Dressing, 117 Sous Vide Vanilla Creme Anglaise,

368-369

Italian sausage, Finocchiona Pizza, 307

variation, 369

ivory king salmon, 280

South of France Chowder, 292 Spiced Chili Dressing, 117 Spinach Butter, 116, 121, 194 in Bok Choy Medley, 346 Steamed Herb Omelet, 146-147 Stilton Cheese Slice, 319 in Stilton on Walnut Bread with Shallot Marmalade, 319

J Jaccard meat tenderizer

about,6, 16 for brining, 132 food safety with, xxiv-xxv, 16 Sweet Brine for Meats, 132

Jack cheese "Fat-Free" Mac and Cheese, 314-315 variations, 314

Mac with Jack and Stilton, 310 jackfruit, 76 Jack's Luxury Oyster Bar, xv

jalapeno peppers Chinese Garlic Chili Condiment,

258,261 Salsa Verde, II I Tortilla Soup, 267 Japan, meat grades in, 190 Japanese markets, 74 Japanese rice, short-grain cooking times for, 324 parcooking times for, 325 source for, 74

jellies, Fruit Jellies, 366 jerky BiltongJerky, 350 Microwaved BeefJerky, 350-351 variations, 350-351 Smoky Jerky, 350 Spicy Jerky, 350 Jerusalem artichokes

Artichoke Soup, 180 in Vacuum-Pickled Vegetables, 130 jiggling-weight pressure cookers, 28, 29 juicers, S

about, 20 Fruit Minestrone, 158-161 variations, 161 Strawberry Marinara, 114

Vegetable Risotto, 328-329 variation, 329 juices. See also specific types ofjuices

Fruit Jellies, 366 keeping fresh, 20 preserving color of, 20 juiciness

cooling cooked food and, 61 offoods cooked sous vide, 49, 186 of pressure-cooked tough cuts of meat, 227 The Jungle (Sinclair), 190 juniper berries, Turkey Confit, 246 jus

Brown BeefJus, 92 Brown Chicken Jus, 92 in Home Jus Gras, 93

in Shiitake Marmalade, 151 variations, 92

Game Bird Jus, 92 Home Jus Gras, 93 variation, 93

Mushroom Jus, 91 in Cream of Mushroom Soup, ISO in Mushroom Puree, 150 in Mushroom Soup, 180

Pressure-Cooked Vegetable Jus, 182 in Vegetable Stew, 185

IN 0 EX

XXXIX

K K

KALANAMAK

kala namak, Chaat Masala, 136 Kalbi Marinade, 134 kappa carrageenan. See carrageenan, iota and kappa Kashmiri chilies

MCCurry Powder, 135. See also MCCurry Powder substituting sweet paprika for, 135 Vindaloo Spice Mix, 135 in Pork Vindaloo with Naan, 221

Kerala Curry Sauce, 104 ketchup Barbecue Ketchup, 110 Pressure-Caramelize d Ketchup, 110

in Modernist Cheeseburger, 212 variation, 110 Kinch, David, 78

Raspberry Gazpacho, 156- 157 King Arthur flours, 270 king salmon, 280 kitchen sinks cooking sous vide using, 51 how to brine salmon in, 278 how to poach salmon in, 278 using as water bath, 64 KitchenAid immersion blenders, 6 kiwi,76

kneading dough by hand, how to, 298 science of, 295 Knox brand gelatin, 366 Kobe-style beef, 191 kohlrabi, 77 kombu seaweed

Seaweed Fish Brine, 133 source for, 74 Korean markets, 75 Korean Pork Belly Skewers, 262 Korean Short-Rib Lettuce Wraps, 221 Korean Wing Sauce, 258, 260

L recipe of, 300 lamb leg of Lamb Leg Tajine, 220

Pressure-Cooked Crustacean Butter,

Sous Vide Lemon Herb Oil, 116 Thai Soup, 267 lemons/ lemon zest Citrus Infusion, 361

Lemon Oil, 118 Lemon Pastry Cream, 375 in Raspberry Lemon Cream Pie,

379 Lemon Posset, 364 Meyer, Fruit Curds, 365

vide, 192 So us Vide Lamb Skewers, 203 in Microwaved BeefJerky, 350-351 shanks best bets for cooking, 228 Lamb Curry, 234-235

in Vacuum-Pickled Vegetables, 130, 131 lentils, green, Pressure-Cooked Lentil

Salad, 175 Bibb, Pork Belly B.L.T., 232-233 Boston, Pork Belly B.L.T., 232-233 butter

Pressure-Cooked Lamb Shanks, 234 Whole Lamb Shank, 234 shoulder, best bets for cooking, 228 Lamb, Jack, xv

Green Salad with Romaine

Dressing, 168- 169 Green Salad with Romaine Dressing variations, 168 Korean Short-Rib Lettuce Wraps,

lard, pork, smoke and flash points of, xxii Latin American markets, 75

221

leafy greens. See also specific leafy greens

Fruit Leather, 129 Mango Chili Leather, 129 Onion Leather, 129 Tomato Leather, 129 in Lobster Roll, 288-289 variations, 129

leeks Finocchiona Pizza, 307

Leek and Onion Soup, 181 MC Special Sauce, 109 in Modernist Cheeseburger, 212

272 in Chicken Noodle Soup, 273 variations, 272

Pressure-Cooked Vegetable Jus, 182 in Vegetable Stew, 185 Roasted-Potato Vichysso ise, 163

miner's, 79 romaine. See romaine lettuce

lichen, 78 licorice source for, 74

wild, 79 lightly cooked food safety tips for, xxv science of, x:xv lima beans, in Refried Bean Foam, 223 lime leaves, Makrud source for, 75

Sous Vide Lemon Herb Oil, 116 limes/li me zest Citrus Infusion, 361

Fruit Curds, 365 lion's mane mushroom, 77

liquid smoke Barbecue Ketchup, 110 Smoky Jerky, 350 liquids, problems with vacuum-sealing,

54,56 solutions for, 57

loaf pans how to form a square hamburger

Tsukune, 263

patty in, 207 White Sandwich Bread, 210-211

in Deep-Fried Tsukune Skewers,

262

in Modernist Cheeseburger, 212 in Moderni st Meatloaf Sandwich,

Vichyssoise with Potato Peel

Reduction, 163 wild, 79 leftovers reheating, 61 storing cooling before, xxv temperature for, x:xiv vacuum sealer for, 61

214-215 lobster meat claws, best bets for cooking sous

vide, 286 Lobster Roll, 288-289 variation, 288 Pressure-Cooked Crustacean Butter,

lemon balm, Sous Vide Lemon Herb Oil, 116

122 in Crustacean Hollandaise, 106

in Lobster Roll, 288-289

lemon essential oil

Foamed Lemon Curd, 365 Sous Vide Lemon Curd, 365

variations, 122 Sous Vide Crustacean Butter, 122 tails best bets for cooking sous vide,

in Lemon Posset, 364 in Raspberry Lemon Cream Pie,

286 So us Vide Lobster Tail, 288

379 variations, 365

INDEX

122 in Crustacean Hollandaise, 106

in Lobster Roll, 288-289 variations, 122 Pressure-Cooked Crustacean Stock, 88. See also pressure cookers, Pressure-Cooked Crustacean Stock Pressure-Cooked Lobster Bisque,

122 Sous Vide Crustacean Butter, 122 lobsters

buying fresh, 284 freezing, 285

how to kill and shell, 284-285

lettuce

Lamb Curry variations, 234

variations, 163 Pressure-Cooked Carrots and Leeks,

pigment in, 122, 282

source for, 75

263

Style, 252- 253 in Korean Pork Belly Skewers, 262

Kuhn Rikon pressure cookers, 6, 28, 29 kumquats, Fruit Salad, 161

flavor in, 122,282

Lemongrass Ginger Infusion, 361

loin rack, best bets for cooking so us

Modernist Vichyssoise, 162- 164

221 in Sichuan Bok Choy, 346-347 in Spicy Hollandaise, 106 Kraft, James L., 308

lobster shells and heads

lemon grass

Lamb Skewers with Mint Yogurt,

best bets for cooking in the micro wave oven, 347 leathers

lobster mushrooms, 78

Oil, 116

lab sieves, 17 lactic acid, in so urdough starters, 299 Lahey, Jim, No-Knead Country Bread

in Crispy Chicken Wings, Korean-

in Korean Short-Rib Lettuce Wraps,

lemon thyme, Sous Vide Lemon Herb

juices from, 122 meat of. See lobster meat

shells and heads of. See lobster shells and heads local food movement, 69 long tweezers, price and uses of, 6

Iongan photograph of, 76 source for, 74 lotus root

photograph of, 77 source for, 74

Louis' Lunch (restaurant), 204 lovage, in Microwave-Fried Parsley, 354

Low-Temp Oven Steak, 196-197 variation, 197 Lu, Margaret, Microwaved Black Cod

with Scallions and Ginger, 348-349 lump charcoal, for charcoal grill, 45

M ILK

M Mac and Cheddar, 314 Mac and Cheese, 310-311 variations, 310 Mac and Fontina, 314

Mac and Gruyere, 310 Mac and Parmesan, 314

Mac with Goat Gouda and Cheddar, 310 Mac with Gorgonzola and Fontina, 310

Mac with Jack and Stilton, 310 Mac with Sharp Cheddar and Swiss, 310 macadamia butter

Raspberry Macadamia Nut Sponge, 357 Strawberry Macadamia Gelato, 370 macadamia nut oil Pressure· Cooked Quinoa Salad with

Cauliflower, 170-171 smoke point of, xxiii

in Sous Vide Tuna Con fit, 174 Strawberry Macadamia Gelato, 370 macadamia nuts, Green Onion and

Sorrel Pesto, 102, 103 macaroni and cheese

Baked Mac and Cheese, 312-313 "Fat-Free" Mac and Cheese, 314-315 variations, 314

Mac and Cheddar, 314 Mac and Cheese, 310-311 variation, 310

Mac and Fontina, 314 Mac and Gruyere, 310 Mac and Parmesan, 314

Mac with Goat Gouda and Cheddar, 310 Mac with Gorgonzola and Fontina,

310 Mac with Jack and Stilton, 310 Mac with Sharp Cheddar and Swiss, 310 mace blades

MCCurry Powder, 135. See also MCCurry Powder source for, 74 Sous Vide Spiced Chili Oil, liS Vindaloo Spice Mix, 135 in Pork Vindaloo with Naan, 221 mackerel, best bets for cooking so us

vide, 281 magnetron, 42,43 Maillard reactions, 192 maitake mushrooms

Barley with Wild Mushrooms and Red Wine, 331 Funghi Pizza, 303 photograph of, 78 source for, 74 Makrud lime leaves source for, 75

Sous Vide Lemon Herb Oil, 116 malic acid about, 71 Barbecue Ketchup, 110 Crustacean Hollandaise, 106 Fruit Minestrone, 158 - 161 variations, 161

Garlic Hollandaise, 106 to keep juices fresh, 20 Pressure·CarameHzed Ketchup, 110 in Modernist Cheeseburger, 212 variation, 110

malic acid (continued) Pressure-Infused Celery, 131 Sous Vide Hollandaise, 106- 107

mayonnaise

Aioli, 108 Bacon Mayonnaise, 108

in Microwaved Potato Salad, 346 in Pork Belly B.L.T., 232-233 in Smoked Bacon B.L.T., 232

variations, 106

Spicy Hollandaise, 106 Vacuum-Infused Celery, 131 in Lobster Roll, 288-289

Modernist Mayonnaise, 108 in Sweet Onion Slaw, 165 variations, 108

variation, 131

in Waldorf Salad, 131

Rouille, 108 in South of France Chowder, 292

malt powder. See diastatic malt powder Mandarin Flavoring, 361 mandarin oranges

Tartar Sauce, 108

MC Curry Powder, 135

Fruit Curds, 365 Fruit Leather, 129

in Kerala Curry Sauce, 104

in Mughal Curry Sauce, 104- 105

mandolines, Pressure· Cooked Quinoa

in Muslim Curry Sauce, 104 variation, 135

Salad with Cauliflower, 170-171 mango powder, green, dried, Chaat

MC Special Sauce, 109

Masala, 136

in Modernist Cheeseburger, 212

mangoes, Mango Chili Leather, 129 mangosteen

McDonald's Big Mac sauce, 109 McGee, Harold, On Food and Cooking,

photograph of, 76

xiii meat. See also specific varieties of meat

so urce for, 75

Manresa (restaurant), 156 MAPP blowtorch fuel, 15, 193

aging of science of, 186

marinades

shortcut for, 186 cooking methods for, 193 drying, history of, 350 grades of, 190 how to grind like a pro, 206

about, 134, 193 Barbecue Marinade, 134 injecting, 16

Kalbi Marinade, 134 marinating with a whipping siphon

juiciness of, meat tenderizer and, 16 preparation before cooking and searing, 193 red, reheating temperature for, 61 safe handling of, xxiv-xxv sanitizing, x.xv searing strategies for, 193

and, 18 Mediterranean Yogurt Marinade,

134 Mexican Marinade, 134 Vietnamese Marinade, 134 marinara sauce

Marinara, 112-113 in Microwaved Eggplant Parmesan, 344-345

Sweet Brine for Meats, 132 tender cuts of, best bets for cooking so us vide, 192 tough cuts of, best bets for cooking,

variations, 112

Pineapple Marinara, ll2 in Hawaiian Pizza, 303 Strawberry Marinara, 114 marinating attachment, vacuum sealers

228 meat grinders

with Vacuum-Infused Celery, 131 in Lobster Roll, 288-289

Brown Chicken Stock, 85 in Aromatic Chicken Broth, 266 in Brown Chicken Jus, 92

in Pressure-Cooked Paella del Bosco, 326-327

variation, 131

in Waldorf Salad, 131 Vacuum-Pickled Vegetables, 130

cutaway illustration of, 206 Modernist Hamburger Patty,

208-209

marmalades, savory. See savory marmalades masa harina

in Modernist Cheeseburger, 212 variation, 208

Modernist Meatloaf Sandwich, 214-215 Pressure-Cooked White Chicken Stock, 84-85,247 in Aromatic Chicken Broth, 266 in Sous Vide Braised Snails, 293

about, 335 Corn Juice Tamales, 340 Hush Puppies, 340 Masa Harina Noodles, 270

in Tortilla Soup, 267 Pressure·Cooked Fresh· Corn

variation, 85 Pressure· Rendered Chicken Fat, 123

Tamales, 340-341 variation, 340 source for, 75 mascarpone cheese

in Chicken Noodle Soup, 273 in Fingerling Potatoes Con fit, 126

Corn Juice Grits, 337 Creamed Spinach, 194, 199 in Florentine Omelet Filling, 145

in Home Jus Gras, 93

Green Tea Flavoring, 361

INDEX

snake, 77 waterme lon, vacuum sealing, 59 melting, with a microwave oven, 41

metal plates, for baking pizza, 295, 301 Mexican Marinade, 134 Meyer lemons, Fruit Curds, 365 michiu rice wine Crispy Chicken Wings, Korean·

Style, 252-253 source for, 74 Microplanes about, 5, 9 Parmesan Crisp, 169 microwave ovens

about, 22-23,40 Aromatic Microwaved Cod, 348

Autumn Flavors Bok Choy, 346 best bets for cooking vegetables in,

347 BiltongJerky, 350 Bok Choy Medley, 346 covering food for cooking in, 342

Crispy Beef and Shallot Salad, 353 variation, 353

Crispy Beef Strands, 352 in Crispy Beef and Shallot Salad, 353 cutaway illustration of, 42-43 evolution of, xiii

Instant Chocolate Sponge, 356-357 variations, 357 invention of, 40

Microwaved BeefJerky, 350-351 variations, 350

Microwaved Black Cod with Scallions and Ginger, 348-349 variations, 348 Microwaved Eggplant Parmesan,

344-345 Microwaved Potato Salad, 346 Microwaved Sea Bass, Tilapia,

Halibut, or Sole, 348, 349 Microwave-Fried Parsley, 354-355 Peanut Butter Sponge, 357 power controls of, 40

Raspberry Macadamia Nut Sponge, 357 science of cooking with, 342

Sesame Sponge, 357 Sichuan Bok Choy, 346-347 variations, 346

Smoky Jerky, 350 Spicy Jerky, 350 uses of, 342 volume vs . surface area of foods and,

40, 43 ways to use, 41 Middle Eastern markets, 75

for brining, 132

milk Amaretto Pastry Cream, 375

in Almond and Cherry Cream Pie, 378

meatballs, Tsukune, 263

Bain·Marie Creme Bnilee, 362

in Deep· Fried Tsukune Skewers, 262 meatloaf, Modernist Meatloaf Sandwich,

Cheese Pastry Cream, 375 Chocolate Pastry Cream, 375

214-215

matsutake mushrooms, 78

bitter, 77 Pepino, 76

Middle Eastern Infusion, 361

food safety with, x.xiv-xxv, 16

variation, 337 Mason jars. See canning jars matcha green tea, 74

Vegetable Con fit, 319 Mediterranean Yogurt Marinade, 134 melon

meat tenderizers brand, price, and uses of, 6

Pressure-Cooked Polenta, 336-337

in Feta on Potato Bread with

Meat Inspection Act, 190 about, 16

in Mac and Parmesan, 314 variation, 199

Mediterranean Vegetable Confit, 126

in Chocolate Cream Pie, 378

XLI

M ILK milk (continued) Coffee Creme Brulee, 362-363 variations, 362 Firm Pastry Cream, 37S Flan, 362 Ginger Pastry Cream, 37S in Ginger Cream Pie, 378 infusions of, how to make, 361 Lemon Pastry Cream, 375 in Raspberry Lemon Cream Pie,

379 Onion Fluid Gel, 100 variation, 100

Pot de Creme, 362 Pressure-Infused Coffee Pastry Cream, 37S in Banana Cream Pie, 379

Raspberry Panna Cotta, 366-367 variation, 366 Sabayon, 369 So us Vide Vanilla Creme Anglaise, 368-369 variation, 369 Sous Vide Vanilla-Cinnamon Pastry

Cream, 374-37S in Apple Cream Pie, 379 variations, 375

Modernist Meatloaf Sandwich, 214-21S Modernist Vichyssoise, 162-164

variations, 117 modernistcuisine.com, xx monosodium glutamate about, 71

Aromatic Chicken Broth, 266 in Chicken Noodle Soup, 273 Chinese Soup, 267 Crispy Chicken Wings, KoreanStyle, 2S2- 2S3 Pho Soup, 267 Montpellier Butter, 120 in Filet Mignon with Montpellier

Butter, 263 morels, 78

mint

bush, source for, 75 Mediterranean Yogurt Marinade,

134 Mint Infusion, 361

Mint Yogurt, 263 in Lamb Skewers with Mint

Yogurt, 263 Napolitana Pizza, 303 Roasted Red Pepper Pes to, 103 Sauce Verte, 102, 103 mirin, Yakitori Sauce, 259, 260

in Boneless Yakitori Wings, 2S6-2S7 in Chicken Skin Yakitori Skewers, 262 in Tsukune, 263 miso source for, 74 white, Mushroom Jus, 91 in Cream of Mushroom Soup, 150 in Mushroom Puree, 150 in Mushroom Soup, 180 Modernist Cheeseburger, 212 Modernist cuisine beginnings of, xviii-xix definition of, xviii evolution of, xix principles of, xix Modernist Cuisine: The Art and Science of Cooking (Myhrvold, Young, and Bilet), xii, xiv, xv, xvii, xviii Modernist Hamburger Patty, 208-209 in Modernist Cheeseburger, 2 12 variation, 208 Modernist ingredients, 69,70-71. See also specific itzgredients Modernist Mayonnaise, 108 in Sweet Onion Slaw, 165 variations, 108

X Lll

mussel juice, 290 mussels best bets for cooking sous vide, 286

Neapolitan Pizza Dough, 296-297

buying fresh, 284 debearding, 286 how to shuck, 286 juices from, 290

Musse.ls Mariniere, 290-291 mustard, Honey Mustard Sauce, 259 mustard greens, baby, in Vegetable Stew,

18S mustard seeds

black, Kerala Curry Sauce, 104 Pressure-Cooked Pickled Mustard Seeds, 12S

mushrooms, Mushroom Puree

276- 277 mother dough, 299

Mini Egg Cups, 144

Nashi pear, 76

Infused-Cream Potato Puree, 230 Mushroom Puree, 150. See also photograph of, 79 Pork Shoulder Fricassee with Apples and Morels, 220 in Shiitake Marmalade, lSI

mounting step, 93

mouthfeel fats and oils and, 116, ISS of fluid gels, 98

N nails, Pincushion Chicken, 241 Napolitana Pizza, 303

yellow foot, Funghi Pizza, 303 Muslim Curry Sauce, 104

source for, 75

Ultra frothy Milk Shake, 213

miner's lettuce, 79

wild. See chanterelles; morels; oyster mushrooms; porcini mushrooms; shiitake mushrooms; wild mushrooms

in Pressure-Cooked Lentil Salad, 17S

mortar and pestle, Fish Spice Mix, 137 in Fragrant Sous Vide Salmon,

milk shake, Ultrafrothy Milk Shake, 213

in Vacuum-Pickled Vegetables, 130

variations, 163 Modernist Vinaigrette, 117

Strawberry Panna Cotta, 161 Sweet Brine for Meats, 132 Vegetarian Panna Cotta, 366 milk frothers, about, 11

mushrooms (cotztinu ed)

in Honey Mustard Sauce, 259 source for, 74

My Weigh digital scale, 6 Myhrvold, Nathan autobiographical sketch of, xiv culinary inspiration of, xii, xiii Modernist Cuisine, xii, xiv, xv, xvii, xviii

myoga photograph of, 77 source of, 74

mozzarella cheese buffalo, vacuumÂˇdrying, 304 Finocchiona Pizza, 307

nasturtiums, in Vegetable Stew, 185 other uses for, 297 variations, 296 needle-nose pliers, Turkey Con fit, 246 neutral oils, xxii niacin deficiency, 335 nitrous oxide cartridges, for whipping

siphons, 18 ni.xtamalization, science of, 335

Noma (restaurant), 69 nonstick frying pans

Eggs Sunny-Side Up, IS2-IS3 variation, 152

Fragrant Sous Vide Salmon, 137, 276-277 Steamed Herb Omelet, 146-147 Striped Mushroom Omelet, 148-149 noodles Barley Noodles, 271 Coconut Noodles, 271 in Thai Soup, 267 Fresh Egg Noodles, 268-271 in Chicken Noodle Soup, 273 variations, 270-271 Masa Harina Noodles, 270

in Tortilla Soup, 267 Potato Noodles, 270 regional authenticity of, 69

Rice Noodles, 271 Rye Noodles, 270 Whole Wheat Noodles, 271 in Chinese Soup, 267

Funghi Pizza, 303 Genovese Pizza, 306 Hawaiian Pizza, 303 Microwaved Eggplant Parmesan,

Nouvelle cuisine, xviii Ten Commandments of, xix Nouvelle cuisine movement, 95 novelty, as Modernist cuisine principle,

344-34S Napolitana Pizza, 303

Pizza Margherita, 304

xix

nuts. See also specific types of nuts softening, 104 N-Zorbit about, 69, 70 Fish Spice Mix, 137

MSG. See monosodium glutamate Muenster cheese, Alsatian Omelet

Filling, 14S Mughal Curry Sauce, 104-105 in Lamb Curry, 234- 23S in Pressure-Cooked Lamb Shanks, 234

in Fragrant Sous Vide Salmon,

276-277

variations, 104 mushrooms button. See button mushrooms crimini. See crimini mushrooms

Mushroom jus, 91 in Cream of Mushroom Soup, 150 in Mushroom Puree, 150 in Mushroom Soup, 180 Mushroom Puree, 150

in Cream of Mushroom Soup, ISO in Mac and Fontina, 314 in Striped Mushroom Omelet,

148- 149 variation, 150

Mushroom Soup, 180 Mushroom Stock, in Barley with

Wild Mushrooms and Red Wine, 331 poisonous, 79 portobello, Mushroom Puree, 150. See also mushrooms, Mushroom Puree

IN 0 EX

PARM IG IANO-REGG IANO CH EESE

0 oats, steelÂˇcut cooking times for, 324 parcooking times for, 325

Steel-Cut Oats with Sous Vide Braised Snails, 331 oils, xxii-xxiii. See also essential oilsi specific types of oils Basic Chili Oil, ll8 for deep-frying, 26, 27 flavorful, xxii-xxiii functions of, 116

Garlic Oil, 118 Ginger Oil, 118 hot, science of frying in, 249 Lemon Oil, 118 for mayon naise, 108

mouthfeel and, 116 neutral, xxii

Pressure-Cooked Spiced Chili Oil, 118 refined, xxii

Rosemary Oil, ll8 smoke and flash points of, xxii

Sous Vide Lemon Herb Oil, 116 Sous Vide Spiced Chili Oil, 118 Thyme Oil, 118 unrefined, xxii

Vanilla Oil, 118 Okinawan sweet potato

photograph of, 77 source for, 74 okra, 77

Old Forge style pizza, 305 old-fashioned barrel-style ice-cream makers, 12 olive oil

Mediterranean Vegetable Confit, 126 Olive Oil Scrambled Eggs, 144 in Espagnole Omelet Filling, 145 Pressure-Cooked Garlic Con fit, 126 variations, 126

Provens:al Garlic Con fit, 126 smoke point of, xxiii

So us Vide Tuna Confit, 174 in Tuna Con fit Salad and Tuna Melt Sandwich, 174 olives

black, Farro with Chicken, Artichokes, and Black Olives,

332 Napolitana Pizza, 303 Olney, Richard, xiv

omelets

fillings for Alsatian Omelet Filling, 145 Espagnole Omelet Filling, 145 Florentine Omelet Filling, 145 Raviolo Omelet Filling, 145 Steamed Herb Omelet, 146-147 Striped Mushroom Omelet, 148-149 On Food and Cooking (McGee), xiii onions Caramelized Onion Gravy, 101 Dried Caramelized Onions, 127

French Onion Soup, 127 green . See scallions Leek and Onion Soup, 181 Onion Fluid Gel, 100 variation, 100

Onion Leather, 129

onions (continued) pearl. See onions, pearl

oxtail (continued) Pressure-Cooked Brown Beef Stock, 86

Pressure-Caramelized Onions, 127

in Alsatian Omelet Filling, 145 in Caramelized Onion Gravy, 101

variations, 86 source for, 75

in Mac and Fontina, 314 in Mac with Goat Gouda and

White Beef Stock, 86 oyster mushrooms, Barley with Wild Mushrooms and Red Wine, 331 oysters best bets for cooking sous vide, 286

Cheddar, 310 in Savory Cheese Pie, 379 variations, 127

Pressure-Cooked Vegetable jus, 182 in Vegetable Stew, 185 Pressure-Cooked Vegetables, 247 in Vegetable Stew, 185 red. See onions, red Salsa Verde, ll1 Slow-Baked Chicken with Onions, 242-243 , Sweet Onion Slaw, 165 in Modernist Meatloaf Sandwich,

214-215

Oyster Stew, 292

p packaging food, for cooking sous vide . See so us vide cooking, packaging food for; vacuum sealers

Pacojet, 13 paella cooking times for, 324

how to cook, 324 how to parcook and finish, 325 how to pressure-cook, 324

Pressure-Cooked Paella del Bosco, 326-327 variations, 330-333 paintbrushes, price and uses of, 6 palm sugar Pressure-Caramelized Peanut Sauce,

111,259 in Chicken Breast Satay, 263 source for, 75

onions, pearl

Pressure-Cooked Vegetable jus, 182 in Vegetable Stew, 185 in Vacuum-Pickled Vegetables, 130

Thai Soup, 267 Thai Sweet, Sour, and Savory Glaze,

llS pancetta, Potato Nood les, 270

onions, red

Sous Vide Lamb Skewers, 203 Sweet Onion Slaw, 165 in Modernist Meatloaf Sandwich, 214-215 in Vacuum-Pickled Vegetables, 130, 131

panfrying, 27 panko bread crumbs

Cheese Crumble, 316 in Baked Mac and Cheese, 312-313 Microwaved Eggplant Parmesan,

344-345 panna cotta

online food forums, 72 open flame . See also blowtorches;

about,360 Raspberry Panna Cotta, 366-367

charcoal grills; gas grills Salsa Verde, 111

variation, 366 Strawberry Panna Cotta, 161 Vegetarian Panna Cotta, 366 pans

orange peel, dried

Autumn Spice Mix, 138 in Gingerbread Crust, 372

about, 26-27 frying. See cast-iron skillets; nonstick frying pans loaf. See loaf pans

source for, 74 oranges/orange zest Citrus Infusion, 361

Fruit Curds, 365

in oven, using as water bath, 65 pansearing

mandarin

Fruit Curds, 365

about, 193 of foods cooked so us vide, 51 papaya, 76

Fruit Leather, 129 Mexican Marinade, 134 organic movement, 69 ouzo, Steel-Cut Oats with Sous Vide

paper cups, Instant Chocolate Sponge,

356-357

Braised Snails, 331

variatiOns, 357

oven bags, for sous vide cooking, 53 oven probe thermometers. See digital thermometers, with oven probe Oven- Fried Pizza, variation, 305 ovens. See also combi ovens; conventional ovens; microwave ovens co nvection, 34 forced-convection, 34 pan in, using as water bath, 65

paprika. See also piment6n, sweet (dulce) hot, Goulash Broth, 267 sweet, substituting for Kashmiri

chilies, 135 parchment paper, silicone-coated, 9 parcooking risotto and paella, how to,

325 Parmesan cheese

in Cheese Crumble, 316 Cheese Crust, 372

preheating for baking pizza, 301 toaster, how to bake salmon in, 278 water-vapor, 34 overpressurizing pressure cookers, 32 oxalis, 78 oxtail

in Savory Cheese Pie, 379

Cilantro Pesto, 103 Mac and Parmesan, 314 Parmesan Crisp, 169

Pizza Cruda, 307

Brown Beefjus, 92 Brown Beef Stock in French Onion Soup, 127

Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese

Florentine Omelet Filling, 145

in Korean Short-Rib Lettuce

Microwaved Eggplant Parmesan,

Wraps, 221 in Pho Soup, 267

344-345 Pistachio Pesto, 102-103. See also pistachios, Pistachio Pesta

in Thai Sweet, Sour, and Savory

Steel-Cut Oats with Sous Vide Braised Snails, 331

Glaze, ll5 jointed, best bets for cooking, 228

INDEX

XLIII

PARSLEY

parsley Italian, 354 Sauce Verte, 102, 103 Microwave-Fried Parsley, 354-355 parsnips

Apple and Parsnip Soup, 181 in Pressure路 Cooked Carrots and

Leeks, 272 passion fruit Passion Fruit Glaze, 376 in Coconut Cream Pie, 378

photograph of, 76 pasta. See macaroni and cheesei noodles pasta machines

Barley Noodles, 271 Coconut Noodles, 271 in Thai Soup, 267 Fresh Egg Noodles, 268-271 in Chicken Noodle Soup, 273 variations, 270- 271 Masa H ari na Noodles, 270 in Tortilla Soup, 267 Potato Nood les, 270 Rice Noodles, 271 Rye Noodles, 270 Whole Wheat Noodles, 271 in Chinese Soup, 267 pasta sheets, 269 pasteurization

offish, xxv, 274 ofmeat,xxv pastis, Steel-Cut Oats with Sous Vide Braised Snails, 331 pastry comb, Striped Mushroom

Omelet, 148-149 pastry cream

abo ut, 360 Amaretto Pastry Cream, 375 in Almond and Cherry Cream Pie, 378 Cheese Pastry Cream, 375 Chocolate Pastry Cream, 375 in Chocolate Cream Pie, 378 Coconut Pastry Cream, 375 in Coconut Cream Pie, 378

Firm Pastry Cream, 375 Ginger Pastry Cream, 375 in Ginger Cream Pie, 378 Lemon Pastry Cream, 375 in Raspberry Lemon Cream Pie,

379 Pressure路 Infused Coffee Pastry

Cream, 375 in Banana Cream Pie, 379 Sous Vide Vani ll a-Cinnamon Pastry

Cream, 374-375 in Apple Cream Pie, 379 variations, 375

P. B.&). Gelato, 370 peaches, vacuum sealing, 59 peanut butter

P. B. &J. Gelato, 370 Peanut Butter Sponge, 357 Peanut Crust, 372 in Banana Cream Pie, 379 peanut o il

refined, smoke and flash points of, x:xii roasted, P. B.&). Gelato, 370 unrefined, smoke point of, xxiii peanuts

Peanut Crust, 372 Press ure -Carameli ze d Peanut Sauce,

III, 259

pears, Fruit Leather, 129 peas, Quinoa with Pistachio Pesto and

pie toppings (continued) Caramelized Almonds, 377

in Almond and Cherry Cream Pie,378 Cocoa Nib and Cardamom Dust, 376

Asparagus, 332 pea vine

photograph of, 77

in Chocolate Cream Pie, 378 Freeze路 Dried Raspberry Powder,

source for, 74 pecorino cheese, Raviolo Omelet

377. See also Freeze-Dried Raspberry Powder

Filling, 145 Pecorino Romano cheese, Uovo Pizza,

307 pellagra, 335 Pepino melon, 76

peppers. See bell peppers; chili peppers; jalapeno peppers; piquillo peppers Perfectly Melting Cheese Slice, 317

Passion Fruit Glaze, 376 in Coconut Cream Pie, 378 pies, c ream. See cream pies

piment6n, sweet (dulce) Barbecue Marinade, 134

Chili Spice Mix, 138 in Crispy Skinless Chicken Wings, 254-255 Pressure-Cooked Paella del Bosco, 326-327 Rouille, 108 in South of France Chowder, 292

in French Onion Soup, 127 in Modernist Cheeseburger, 212

in Tuna Confit Salad and Tuna Melt Sandwich, 174 persimmons

Fruit Leather, 129 source for, 74

pes to about, 83 Chervil, Thyme, and Scallion Pesto,

Pincushion Chicken, 241

pine, 78 pine mushrooms, 78

pineapple

102, 103 Cilantro Pesto, 103

Pineapple Marinara, 112 in Hawaiian Pizza, 303 vacuum sealing, 59

Green Onion and Sorrel Pesto, 102,

Yakitori Sauce, 259, 260

103 Pesto Chicken Thigh Skewers, 262 Pistachio Pesto, 102-103. See also

in Boneless Yakitori Wings,

256-257 in Chicken Skin Yakitori Skewers, 262

pistachios, Pistachio Pesto

Roasted Red Pepper Pesto, 103 Sauce Verte, 102, 103

Spinach Pesto, 103 pheasant, Game Bird jus, 92 Pho Soup, 267

in Tsukune, 263 pineapple quince, 76 pinto beans, dried

Refried Bean Foam, 223

Piave Vecchio cheese, Green Onion

and Sorrel Pesto, 102, 103 Pickle Crisp, for cooking firmer beans,

217 pickles cucumber, spicy, MC Special Sauce,

variations, 223

Refried Bean Puree, 223 piquillo peppers Pressure-Cooked Paella del Bosco, 326-327 Raspberry Gazpacho, 156-157 roasted, Roasted Red Pepper Pesto,

109

103 Tomato Sofrito, 112 in Espagnole Omelet Filling, 145

gherkin, Tartar Sauce, 108 source for, 74 pie crust

Brown Butter Crust, 372 in Apple Cream Pie, 379 Carrot Crust, 372 Cheese Crust, 372 in Savory Cheese Pie, 379 Chocolate Crust, 372

pistachio butter, Pistachio Flavoring, 361 pistachio oil

Pistachio Gelato, 370-371 variations, 370

roasted, Pistachio Pesto, 102-!03. See also pistachios, Pistachio Pes to smoke point of, xxiii

in Chocolate Cream Pie, 378

Coconut Crust, 372

pistachios

Pistachio Gelato, 370-371

in Coconut Cream Pie, 378

Double Almond Crust, 372 in Almond and Cherry Cream Pie, 378 Flaky Pie Crust, 372-373

variations, 370

Pistachio Pesto, 102- 103 in Genovese Pizza, 306 in Goat Cheese on Baguette with

Tomato Con fit and Basil, 319 in Pesto Chicken Thigh Skewers, 262 in Pistachio Clam Chowder, 292

variations, 372

Gingerbread Crust, 372 in Ginger Cream Pie,378

keeping crisp, 372 Peanut Crust, 372

in Quinoa with Pistachio Pesto

and Asparagus, 332

in Banana Cream Pie, 379

Raspberry Crust, 372 pie toppings Apple Foam, 376 in Apple Cream Pie, 379

variations, 103

pitaya, 76 pizza Broccoli Raab Pizza, 306

Capicola Pizza, 306

Blowtorch-Caramelized Bananas,

crust of, chewy, science of, 295

377

Deep-Dish Fried Pizza, 305

in Banana Cream Pie, 379

in Chicken Breast Satay, 263

XLIV

IN 0 EX

pizza (continued) dough for. See pizza dough Finocchiona Pizza, 307

Funghi Pizza, 303 Genovese Pizza, 306 Hawaiian Pizza, 303

how to make, 302-303 Napolitana Pizza, 303 Oven路 Fried Pizza, 305 variation, 305

Pizza Crud a, 307 Pizza Margherita, 304 Pizza Sauce, 112

preheating of oven for baking, 301 Uovo Pizza, 307

pizza dough Breadsticks, 296 Buckwheat Pizza Dough, 296 how to knead by hand, 298 Neapolitan Pizza Dough, 296-297 va riations, 296

No-Knead Pizza Dough, 300 Quinoa Pizza Dough, 296 Rustic Pizza Dough, 298 variation, 298

troubleshooting tip for, 297 Whole Wheat Pizza Dough, 298 pizza peels, 302-303 Deep-Dish Fried Pizza, 305 Funghi Pizza, 303 Hawaiian Pizza, 303

in Napolitana Pizza, 303 Oven-Fried Pizza, 305 variation, 305

Pizza Margherita, 304 Pizza Sauce in Capicola Pizza, 306

in Funghi Pizza, 303 in Napolitana Pizza, 303 in Pizza Margherita, 304 pizza stones, 301

plastic bags safety of, 52, 354, 355 sealing for cooking sous vide, 52-59 compressing fruits and vege tables for, how to, 59 on the edge of a countertop,

how to, 58 with a handheld pump, how to, 59 problems with, solutions for, 57

types of bags and, 53 vacuum sealers for. See vacuum sea lers by water displacement, how to, 58

zip-top. See zip-top bags plastic wrap, safety of, 52,354, 355 plate-up and presentation

Chicken Noodle Soup, 273 Modernist Cheeseburger, 212

Vegetable Stew, 185 platinum gelatin, 366

pliers, needle-nose, Turkey Confit, 246 poisonous mushrooms, 79

Polder digital scale, 6 polenta. See cornmeal

polyethylene, safety of, 52,355 PolyScience water baths, 6, 62, 63 polyvinyl chloride, dangers of, 52, 355 pomegranate seeds, dried, Chaat

Masala, 136 pomegranates, 76 pommes forestithes, 230

PRESSURE COOKERS poolish care and feeding of, 299 Poolish, 299 in Rustic Pizza Dough, 298 in Whole Wheat Pizza Dough, 298 sourdough, 299 popcorn cooking in a microwave oven, 40 Popcorn Infusion, 361

poppy seeds, white Fish Spice Mix, 137 in Fragrant Sous Vide Salmon,

276-277 Mughal Curry Sauce, 104-105 in Lamb Curry, 234-235 in Pressure-Cooked Lamb

Shanks, 234 porcini mushrooms

about, 78 Funghi Pizza, 303 Infused-C ream Potato Puree, 230

Mushroom Jus, 91 in Cream of Mushroom Soup, ISO in Mushroom Puree, 150 in Mushroom Soup, 180 Mushroom Puree, 150. See also mushrooms, Mushroom Puree

photograph of, 78 Porcini Butter, 116, 121 Pork Shoulder Fricassee with Apples

and Morels, 220 in Shiitake Marmalade, 151 porcini powder Bolognese Sauce, 112

Grilling Spice Mix, 139 pork. See also culatello; ham; pancetta; prosciutto

belly. See pork belly bones. See pork bones chops Grilled Pork Chop, 202 loin, best bets for cooking sous

vide, 192 ground, Bolognese Sauce, 112 ribs . See also pork, spare ribs

best bets for cooking, 228 sausage chorizo, Bomba Rice with Chorizo and Broccoli-Gruyere

Puree, 320, 333 Italian, Finocchiona Pizza, 307

shoulder. See pork shoulder skin . See pork skin spare ribs, Brown Pork Stock, 86.

See also Brown Pork Stock tenderloin, best bets for cooking so us vide, 192

pork belly best bets for cooking, 228 Korean Pork Belly Skewers, 262 Pork Belly B.L.T., 232-233 variations, 232

Pressure-Cooked Pork Belly, 232 Pressure-Cooked Pork Belly Adobo, 224-225 so urce for, 75 So us Vide Pork Belly Adobo, 224 pork bones, Brown Pork Stock, 86. See also Brown Pork Stock pork lard, smoke and flash points of, xxii

pork shoulder best bets for cooking, 228

Modernist Meatloaf Sandwich, 214-215

pork shoulder (contilwed) Pork Shoulder Fricassee with Apples and Morels, 220 Pork Vindaloo with Naan, 221 Pressure-Cooked Carnitas, 218-219 Sous Vide Carnitas, 219 Whole Shoulder, 219

presentation and plate·up

pressure cookers (continued)

Chicken Noodle Soup, 273 Modernist Cheeseburger, 212 Vegetable Stew, 185 pressure canners, 29

Game Bird Jus, 92

pressure cookers

paella, 324 how to use, 32-33

pork skin

Crispy Chicken or Pork Skin, 279 Pressure-Cooked Chicharr6n, 219, 222 source for, 75

abou t, 23,28-31, 83 advantages of, 28 Apple and Parsnip Soup, 181 Arborio Rice with Caramelized

Squash and Saffron, 330 Arborio Rice with Sea Urchin and

Cocoa,333 Artichoke Soup, 180 Barbecue Ketchup, 110 Barley with Wild Mushrooms and Red Wine, 331 Bell Pepper Soup, 181 Bolognese Sauce, 112 Bomba Rice with Chorizo and Broccoli- Gruyere Puree, 320, 333

port wine, Shallot and Port Wine

Marmalade, 319 in Stilton on Walnut Bread with Shallot Marmalade, 319 portobello mushrooms, Mushroom Puree, 1SO. See also mushrooms, Mushroom Puree

posse! about, 360 Lemon Posse!, 364 Pot de Creme, 362 potato flour, Potato Noodles, 270 potato ricers. See ricers

Braised Duck with Steamed Buns,

221 brands, price, and uses of, 6 Broccoli-Gruyere Soup, 181

in Autumn Flavors Bok Choy, 346

potato sta rch Boneless Yakitori Wings, 256-257 Crispy Chicken Wings, Korean·

in Bomba Rice with Chorizo and Broccoli-Gruyere Puree, 320,

333

Style, 252-253

Brown BeefJus, 92

potatoes in Broccoli with Cheese Sauce, 310

Brown Beef Stock, 86

Fingerling Potatoes Con fit, 126 Garlic Mashed Potatoes, 230 Infused· Cream Potato Puree, 230 Microwaved Potato Salad, 346 Modernist Vichyssoise, 162-164 Potato Puree, 228, 230-231 Leeks, 272 Roasted-Potato Vichyssoise, 163 Sweet Potato Puree, 230 Vichyssoise with Potato Peel

Reduction, 163 pots about, 26-27

in Sous Vide Buffalo Wings,

Pressure· Cooked Crustacean Butter,

122

250-251 Caramelized Carrot Soup, 178-179 Caramelized Onion Gravy, 101

in Crustacean Hollandaise, 106

Cauliflower Soup, 180

in Lobster Roll, 288- 289 variations, 122

Cheese Grits, 338 Clams in Chowder Sauce, 292 variations, 292 for cooking legumes, 217

So us Vide Crustacean Butter, 122 prawns best bets for cooking sous vide, 286 Pressure· Cooked Crustacean Butter,

cooking times for rice and grains,

324 cooking vegetables in, sc ience of, 177

122

Corn Juice Grits, 337 Corn Juice Tamales, 340 Corn Soup, 181

in Crustacean Hollandaise, 106

in Lobster Roll, 288- 289 variations, 122 Sous Vide Crustacean Butter, 122 pre-ferment, 299

cutaway illustration of, 30- 31 depressurizing, 33 Dried Caramelized Onions, 127 Farro with Chicken, Artichokes,

preheating of combi ovens, 51 of conventional ovens, 34

and Black Olives, 332 Fingerling Potatoes Con fit, 126 Forbidden Rice with Squid Ink and Sous Vide Clams, 330 French Onion Soup, 127

of oven for baking pizza, 301 preheating (continued) of water baths, 51

INDEX

221 Lamb Leg Tajine, 220 Leek and Onion Soup, 181 for making carnitas, 217 Marinara, 112

in Microwaved Eggplant Parmesan, 344-345 variations, 112 Mediterranean Vegetable Con fit, 126 in Feta on Potato Bread with

Vegetable Confit, 319 Montpellier Butter, in Filet Mignon

with Montpellier Butter, 263 Mushroom Jus, 91 in Cream of Mushroom Soup,

150 in Mushroom Puree, ISO

in Mushroom Soup, 180 Mushroom Soup, 180 overpressurizing, 32

Oyster Stew, 292 parcooking times for rice and grains,

325

Pistachio Clam Chowder, 292 Pizza Sauce, 112 Pork Shoulder Fricassee with Apples and Morels, 220 Pork Vindaloo with Naan, 221

Bosco, 326-327 Brown Pork Stock, 86. See also Brown Pork Stock Brown Vegetable Stock, 89 Buffalo Sauce, 258

poultry. See also specific types of poultry best bets for cooking sous vide, 245 holding at target temperature, 60 safe cooking of, 245 prawn shells and heads

Korean Short·Rib Lettuce Wraps,

Wraps, 221 in Pho Soup, 267

in Pressure· Cooked Paella del

on stove, using as water bath, 64

and paella, 325 how to pressure·cook risotto and

Pineapple Marinara, 112 in Hawaiian Pizza, 303

Glaze, 115 Brown Chicken Jus, 92 in Home Jus Gras, 93 in Shiitake Marmalade, lSI variations, 92 Brown Chicken Stock, 85 in Aromatic Chicken Broth, 266 in Brown Chicken Jus, 92

river, source for, 74

how to parcook and finish risotto

in French Onion Soup, 127 in Korean Short-Rib Lettuce

in Thai Sweet, Sour, and Savory

in Pressure· Cooked Carrots and

Pressure-Caramelized Banana

Puree, 181 in Banana Cream Pie, 379 Pressure-Caramelized Ketchup, 110 in Modernist Cheeseburger, 212 variation, 110 Pressure-Caramelized Onions, 127. See also onions, Pressure· Caramelized Onions variations, 127 Pressure-Caramelized Peanut Sauce, Ill, 259

in Chicken Breast Satay, 263 Pressure-Cooked Barley, 184 in Barley Salad, 184 in Bok Choy Medley, 346 in Vegetable Stew, 185 Pressure-Cooked Brown Beef Stock,

86 variations, 86 Pressure-Cooked Carnitas, 218-219 variations, 219 Pressure-Cooked Carrots and Leeks,

272 in Chicken Noodle Soup, 273 variations, 272 Pressure-Cooked Chicharr6n, 219, 222 Pressure-Cooked Chickpea Salad, 172- 173 Pressure-Cooked Crustacean Butter,

122 in Crustacean Hollandaise, 106

in Lobster Roll, 288-289 variations, 122

XLV

PRESSURE COOKERS

pressure cookers (continued) Pressure-Cooked Crustacean Stock,

88 in Cheese Grits, 338 in Forbidden Rice with Squid Ink and Sous Vide C lams, 330 in Shrimp and Grits, 338-339 in Thai Soup, 267 Pressure-Cooked Drippings, 101 variation, 101

pressure cookers (continued) Tomato Sofrito, 112 in Espagnole Omelet Filling, 145 for tough cuts of meat, 227 types of, 29 of vegetable soups, about, 177 Vichyssoise with Potato Peel

Reduction, 163 White Beef Stock, 86 Whole Shoulder, 219

Pressure-Cooked Fresh-Corn Tamales, 340- 341 Pressure-Cooked Garlic Con fit, 126. See also garlic, Pressure-Cooked Garlic Con fit Pressure-Cooked Lamb Shanks, 234 Pressure-Cooked Lentil Salad, I 75

pressure-infusing

Pressure-Cooked Lobster Bisque,

siphon, 18 pretzels, "Everything Pretzels; 297

Pressure-Infused Celery, 131 Pressure-Infused Coffee Pastry

source for, 74

Uovo Pizza, 307 quinces

Fruit Leather, 129 photograph of, 76 quinoa cooking times for, 324

parcooking times for, 325 Pressure· Cooked Quinoa Salad with

in Banana Cream Pie, 379

Cauliflower, 170-171 Quinoa with Pistachio Pesto and

pressure-marinating, with a whipping

Pressure-Cooked Pickled Mustard

prime grade of meat, 190

Seeds, 125 in Honey Mustard Sauce, 259 Pressure-Cooked Polenta, 336-337 variation, 337 Pressure-Cooked Pork Belly, 232 Pressure-Cooked Pork Belly Adobo, 224-225 variation, 224

produce. See fruits; vegetables; specific

XLVI

quail eggs

with a whipping siphon, 18

PriceSmart, 72 prickly pear cactus fruit, 76

Cauliflower, 170-171 Pressure-Cooked Risotto, 329 Pressure-Cooked Spiced Chili Oil, 118 Pressure-Cooked Vegetable Jus, 182 in Vegetable Stew, 185 Pressure-Cooked Vegetable Stock, 89 Pressure-Cooked Vegetables, 183, 247 in Vegetable Stew, 185 Pressure-Cooked White Chicken Stock, 84-85,247 in Aromatic Chicken Broth, 266 in Sous Vide Braised Snails, 293 variation, 85 pressure-cooking in canning jars and, 33 Pressure-Rendered Chicken Fat, 123 in Chicken Noodle Soup, 273 in Fingerling Potatoes Confit, 126 in Home Jus Gras, 93 Proven10al Garlic Con fit, 126 Quinoa with Pistachio Pesta and Asparagus, 332 Red Wine Glaze, 97 in Braised Short Ribs, 228, 229 Refried Bean Foam, 223 variations, 223 Refried Bean Puree, 223 Roasted-Potato Vichyssoise, 163 safety tips for, 33 Shrimp and Grits, 338-339 variation, 338 softening nuts and seeds in, 104 South of France Chowder, 292 Squash Soup, 180 in Arborio Rice with Caramelized Squash and Saffron, 330 Steel-Cut Oats with Sous Vide Braised Snails, 331 Toasted Corn Stock, 90. See also Toasted Corn Stock

quail breast, best bets for cooking, 245

Cream, 375

122 Pressure-Cooked Paella del Bosco, 326-327

Pressure-Cooked Quinoa Salad with

Asparagus, 332 quinoa flour, Quinoa Pizza Dough, 296

R radishes

Pressure-Cooked Vegetable Jus, 182 in Vegetable Stew, 185 Pressure-Cooked Vegetables, 247 in Vegetable Stew, 185 in Vacuum-Pickled Vegetables, 130, 131 ramekins

Bain-Marie Creme Brulee, 362 Coffee Creme Brulee, 362-363 variations, 362

Flan,362 Pot de Creme, 362 ramps, 79 rapeseed oil, smoke and flash points of, xxii raspberries Freeze· Dried Raspberry Powder,

377. See also Freeze-Dried Raspberry Powder

fruits a11d vegetables

Fruit Leather, 129

propane blowtorches, 15, 193 propylene gas blowtorches, IS

Fruit Salad, !61 Raspberry Flavoring, 361 Raspberry Gazpacho, 156-157

prosciutto Hawaiian Pizza, 303 Pineapple Marinara, 11 2 in Hawaiian Pizza, 303 Pizza Crud a, 307

Raspberry Lemon Cream Pie, 377,

379 Raspberry Macadamia Nut Sponge,

357 Raspberry Panna Cotta, 366-367

Proven10al Garlic Con fit, 126 Puffed Chicken Skin, 254 puffing, with a microwave oven, 41 pumpkin seed oil, smoke point of, xxiii pumpkin seeds, Cilantro Pesto, 103

variation, 366 Rautureau, Thierry, xiv

pumps, handheld, how to use, 59

recipes format of, xx, xxi

Raviolo Omelet Filling, 145

purees

scaling

Apple and Parsnip Puree, 181 Artichoke Puree, 180 Bell Pepper Puree, 181

howto,xx for sodium citrate,317 writing, 7 red bananas, 76 red wine

Broccoli-Gruyere Puree, 181

in Autumn Flavors Bok Choy, 346 Bomba Rice with Chorizo and

Barley with Wild Mushrooms and Red Wine, 331 Red Wine Glaze, 97 in Braised Short Ribs, 228,229 Redeye Gravy, 96 in Shrimp and Grits, 338-339

Broccoli- Gruyere Puree, 320, 333 Cauliflower Puree, 181 Corn Puree, 18 1 Infu sed-Cream Potato Puree, 230 Leek and Onion Puree, 181 Mushroom Puree, 181. See also mush · rooms, Mushroom Puree

Redzepi, Rene, 78 refined oils, xxii

Potato Puree, 228, 230- 231

Refried Bean Foam, 223

variations, 230 Pressu re·Carameli zed Banana Puree, 181 in Banana Cream Pie, 379 Refried Bean Puree, 223

variations, 223 Refried Bean Puree, 223 refrigerator cooling food before storing in, xxv temperature of, xxiv, xxv regional authenticity of ingredients, 69

Squash Puree, 180

reheating

in Arborio Rice with Caramelized

of Braised Short Ribs, 229

Squash and Saffron, 330 Sweet Potato Puree, 230 purple asparagus, 79

time required for, 61 of vacuum·sealed foods, 61 restaurants, as information source for

purslane

finding ingredients, 73 rhubarb Fruit Minestrone, 158-161

about, 79 in Vegetable Stew, 185

variations, 161

Fruit Salad, 161 rice. See also Arborio rice; bomba rice; carnaroli rice; forbidden rice;Japanese rice, short·gra.in; risotto; Via lone Nano rice

parcooked, cooling, 325,326, 329

INDEX

SAUCES rice (continued)

rosemary

parcooking times for, 325 for risotto, 320 source for, 74 transformation during cooking of, 320, 322-323 rice bran oil, Rice Noodles, 271 rice cookers, using as water bath, 65

Rosemary Oil, 118 in Vegetable Stew, 185 Rouille, 108

rice flour

Rustic Pizza Dough, 298 variation, 298 rye flour, Rye Noodles, 270 in Goulash Broth, 267

Rice Noodles, 271 in Pho Soup, 267 roasted, source for, 75 rice vinegar

Pressure-Cooked Pork Belly Adobo, 224- 225 Sesame Dressing, 117 source for, 74 Vietnamese Marinade, 134

Vietnamese-Style Dressing, 117 rice wine Crispy Chicken Wings, Korean-

Style, 252-253

in South of France Chowder, 292 roux, 95 Rover's {restaurant), xiv Ru shing, Slade, xv

sabayon

about, 360 Sabayon, 369 safety. See also food safety of microwave ovens, 42 of plastic bags and wrap in cooking,

52,354,355 of pressure cookers, 28

safety tips for blowtorches, 15 for canning jars, 33 for deep-frying, 26 for dehydrating foods, 21 for lightly cooked food, xxv for pressure-cooking, 33 for thermometers, 67 for vacuum sealing, 54 s afflower oil, smoke and flash points of,

xxii

source for, 74

Yakitori Sauce, 259, 260 in Boneless Yakitori Wings,

salmon skin

saffron Arborio Rice with Caramelized

256-257 in Chicken Skin Yakitori Skewers, 262

Squash and Saffron, 330 Middle Eastern Infusion, 361 Muslim Curry Sauce, 104

in Tsukune, 263

source for, 74

Tomato Sofrito, 112

ricers

about, 20 Garlic Mashed Potatoes, 230 Infused-Cream Potato Puree, 230 Potato Puree, 228, 230-231 variations, 230 Sweet Potato Soup, 230 ricotta cheese Broccoli Raab Pizza, 306 Florentine Omelet Filling, 145

sage in Microwave-Fried Parsley, 354 Uovo Pizza, 307 sake source for, 74

Yakitori Sauce, 259, 260 256-257 in Chicken Skin Yakitori Skewers,

262 in Tsukune, 263

344-345

Corn Juice Grits, 337 Pressure-Cooked Polenta, 336-337 variation, 337 Quinoa with Pistachio Pesta and

Asparagus, 332

salads about, ISS Barley Salad, 184 Beet Salad, 168 composing, 166- 167 Crispy Beef and Shallot Salad, 353 variation, 353

rigid containers, for vacuum sealers, 53

Fruit Salad, 161

risotto cooking times for, 324 how to cook, 324 how to parcook and finish, 325

smoked. See smoked salt timing of adding to beef, 226 timing of adding to ground beef, 204 timing of adding to salads, 167 salt curing meats, 350 Salter digital scale, 6 samba! ulek, in Sichuan Bok Choy, 346-347 Sam's Club, 72 sandwiches

Aged White Cheddar on Sourdough with Apples, 318 Camembert and Gruyere on Brioche with Ham and Mushrooms, 318

Crab Roll, 288 Feta on Potato Bread with Vegetable Confit, 319 Goat Cheese on Baguette with Tomato Con fit and Basil, 319 Lobster Roll, 288-289 variation, 288

Modernist Meatloaf Sandwich, 214-215 Pork Belly B.L.T., 232-233 Pressure-Cooked Pork Belly, 232 Shrimp Roll, 288 Smoked Bacon B.L.T., 232 Stilton on Walnut Bread with Shallot Marmalade, 319 Tuna Confit Salad and Tuna Melt Sandwich, 174 White Sandwich Bread, 210-211 in Modernist Cheeseburger, 212 in Modernist Meatloaf Sandwich,

214-215

168-169 variations, 168

how to dress, 167 Pressure-Cooked Chickpea Salad, 172-173 Pressure-Cooked Lentil Salad, 175

Pressure-Cooked Risotto, 329 stirring, science of, 320 variations, 330-333 Vegetable Risotto, 328-329 variation, 329 Roast Chicken, 238-241 variations, 241 Roasted Red Pepper Pesto, 103 Roasted-Potato Vichyssoise, 163 roasting, in combi oven, 39 Robuchon, Joel, potato puree of, 17,231

168-169

in marinades, 134 salting meat vs . curing and, 132

Green Salad with Romaine Dressing,

how to pressure-cook, 324

romaine lettuce Green Salad with Romaine Dressing,

source for, 74

Fish Cure, 133

in Boneless Yakitori Wings,

Microwaved Eggplant Parmesan, ricotta salata cheese

Baked Fish Skin Chips, 279 Crispy Fish Skin, 279 variations, 279 Salmonella, safe cooking of poultry and, 245 Salsa Verde, 111 salt. See also brines; marinades amount in brines, 16, 132 amount in cures, scaling for, 208 black Chaat Masala, 136

about, 94 Aerated Blue Cheese Sauce, 261

Cauliflower, 170-171 Sweet Onion Slaw, 165

bechamel, in classic mac and cheese recipes, 308

214-215 timing of adding salt to, 167 Tuna Confit Salad and Tuna Melt Sandwich, 174 Waldorf Salad, 131 salmon best bets for cooking sous vide, 281

farmed, 281

variations, 168

Fragrant Sous Vide Salmon, 137,

276-277

Romanesco

Bok Choy Medley, 346 in Vacuum-Pickled Vegetables, 131 root vegetables. See also specific vegetables best bets for microwaving, 347

INDE X

281 sauces. See also gravy; hollandaise sauce; pes to

Pressure-Cooked Quinoa Salad with

in Modernist Meatloaf Sandwich,

Herb and Romaine Broth, 168

sardines, best bets for cooking so us vide,

Blue Cheese Sauce, 258, 261 variation, 261

Bolognese Sauce, 112 Buffalo Sauce, 258 in So us Vide Buffalo Wings,

250-251 Egg-Yolk Fluid Gel, 100 finishing, 943 Home Jus Gras, 93 variation, 93 Honey Mustard Sauce, 259

how to bake in a toaster oven, 278

Kerala Curry Sauce, 104

how to poach in a kitchen sink, 278 in Sous Vide Tuna Con fit, 174 varieties of, 274, 280-281

Korean Wing Sauce, 258, 260. See also Korean Wing Sauce

X LVII

SAUCES

sauces (continued) Marinara, 112-113 variations, 112 MC Special Sauce, 109 in Modernist Cheeseburger, 212 mounting, 943 Mughal Curry Sauce, 104-105 in Lamb Curry, 234-235 in Pressure-Cooked Lamb Shanks, 234 variations, 104 Muslim Curry Sauce, 104 Onion Fluid Gel, 100 variation, 100 Pineapple Marinara, 112 in Hawaiian Pizza, 303 variations, 112 Pizza Sauce, 112 Pressure-Caramelized Peanut Sauce, Ill, 259 in Chicken Breast Satay, 263 Salsa Verde, Ill sauce soubise, 100 Sauce Verte, 102, 103 Strawberry Marinara, 114 Tartar Sauce, 108 thickening, 94 Tomato Sofrito, 112 in Espagnole Omelet Filling, 145 Ultrastable Butter Sauce, 93 Yakitori Sauce, 259, 260 in Boneless Yakitori Wings, 256 -257 in Chicken Skin Yakitori Skewers, 262 in Tsukune, 263 sausage chorizo, Bomba Rice with Chorizo and Broccoli-Gruyere Puree, 320, 333 Italian, Finocchiona Pizza, 307 Savory Cheese Pie, 379 savory marmalades about, 151 Shallot and Port Wine Marmalade, 319 in Stilton on Walnut Bread with Shallot Marmalade, 319 Shiitake Marmalade, 151 in Beef Short Ribs with Shiitake Marmalade, 263 in Mini Egg Cups, 144 in Striped Mushroom Omelet, 148- 149 Savory Poultry Brine, 133 scales. See digital scales scaling recipes howto,xx for sodium citrate, 317 scallions Aromatic Microwaved Cod, 348 Chervil, Thyme, and Scallion Pesto, 102,103 Fines Herbes Vinaigrette with Pistachio Butter, 117 Green Onion and Sorrel Pesto, 102, 103 Microwaved Black Cod with Scallions and Ginger, 348-349 variations, 348 Microwaved Sea Bass, Tilapia, Halibut, or Sole, 348,349 Pistachio Pesto, 102- 103

XLVIII

scallions (continued) Sweet Onion Slaw, 165 in Modernist Meatloaf Sandwich, 214-215 sca llop s, best bets for cooking so us vide, 286 schmaltz, 123 Scrambled Egg Pudding, 144 in Steamed Herb Omelet, 146- 147 sea bass, Microwaved Sea Bass, Tilapia, Halibut, or Sole, 348 sea beans, 78 sea urchin Arborio Rice with Sea Urchin and Cocoa, 333 source for, 74 seafood. See also specific types of seafood sashimi-quality, source for, 74 searing offoods cooked sous vide, 51 timing of, 226 by using a blowtorch, 14, 193 seasonal ingredients composing salads and, 166 greens, in Vegetable Stew, 185 seasoning, of ground beef, science of, 204 seaweed Seaweed Fish Brine, 133 source for, 74 seeds. See also specific types of seeds softening, 104 select grade of meat, 190 semiautomatic ice-cream makers, 12 sesame oil, toasted Sesame Dressing, 117 Sesame Sponge, 357 smoke point of, xxiii source for, 74 Spiced Chili Dressing, 117 Spicy Hollandaise, 106 sesame seeds, Fish Spice Mi.x, 137 in Fragrant So us Vide Salmon, 276-277 SFG whipping siphon, 6 shallots Crispy Beef and Shallot Salad, 353 Crispy Shallots, 353 MC Special Sauce, 109 in Modernist Cheeseburger, 212 Mughal Curry Sauce, 104-105 variations, 104 Onion Fluid Gel, 100 variation, 100 Onion Leather, 129 Pressure-Caramelized Peanut Sauce, Ill, 259 Pressure-Cooked Vegetable Jus, 182 in Vegetable Stew, 185 Shallot and Port Wine Marmalade, 319 in Stilton on Walnut Bread with Shallot Marmalade, 319 shallow frying, 27 Shaoxing wine Aromatic Microwaved Cod, 348 Chinese Soup, 267 Korean Wing Sauce, 258, 260. See also Korean Wing Sauce Microwaved Black Cod with Scallions and Ginger, 348-349 variations, 348 Microwaved Sea Bass, Tilapia, Halibut, or Sole, 348, 349

Shaoxingwine (continued) Sichuan Bok Choy, 346-347 variations, 346 source for, 74 sheet gelatin, 366 shellfish. See also specific shellfish best bets for cooking sous vide, 286 buying fresh, 284 smell of, 284 sustainably farmed, 72 shiitake mushrooms Barley with Wild Mushrooms and Red Wine, 331 Infused-Cream Potato Puree, 230 Mushroom Puree, 150. See also mushrooms, Mushroom Puree Mushroom Soup, 180 Rye Noodles, 270 Shiitake Marmalade, 151 in Beef Short Ribs with Shiitake Marmalade, 263 in Mini Egg Cups, 144 in Striped Mushroom Omelet, 148-149 Shinko pears, 76 shrimp best bets for cooking sous vide, 286 in Lobster Roll, 288 Pressure-Cooked Crustacean Butter, 122 in Crustacean Hollandaise, 106 in Lobster Roll, 288-289 variations, 122 Shrimp and Grits, 338-339 variation, 338 Shrimp Roll, 288 Sous Vide Crustacean Butter, 122 shrimp shells and heads Pressure-Cooked Crustacean Butter, 122 in Crustacean Hollandaise, 106 in Lobster Roll, 288-289 variations, 122 Pressure-Cooked Crustacean Stock, 88. See also pressure cookers, Pressure-Cooked Crustacean Stock Sous Vide Crustacean Butter, 122 Sichuan Bok Choy, 346-347 variations, 346 sieves, S, 17 silicone mats about,6, 9 Aged White Cheddar Cheese Slice, 318 in Aged White Cheddar on Sourdough with Apples, 318 Baked Fish Skin Chips, 279 brands, price, and uses of, 6 Camembert and Gruyere Cheese Slice, 318 in Camembert and Gruyere on Brioche with Ham and Mushrooms, 318 Cheese Crumble, 316 in Baked Mac and Cheese, 312-313 cutting, caution against, 148 cutting into custom shapes, 9, 148 Feta Cheese Slice, 319 in Feta on Potato Bread with Vegetable Con fit, 319 Goat Cheese Slice, 319 in Goat Cheese on Baguette with Tomato Con fit and Basil, 319

IN 0 EX

silicone mats (continued) Perfectly Melting Cheese Slice, 317 in French Onion Soup, 127 in Modernist Cheeseburger, 212 in Tuna Confit Salad and Tuna Melt Sandwich, 174 Stilton Cheese Slice, 319 in Stilton on Walnut Bread with Shallot Marmalade, 319 Striped Mushroom Omelet, 148- 149 Tomato Confit, in Goat Cheese on Baguette with Tomato Con fit and Basil, 319 silicone molds about,9 price and uses of, 6 silicone-coated parchment paper, 9 Silpat silicone mats, 6, 9, 148 silver gelatin, 366 Sinclair, Upton, 190 sinks. See kitchen sinks skewers Beef Short Ribs with Shiitake Marmalade, 263 Chicken Breast Satay, 263 Chicken Skin Yakitori Skewers, 262 Deep-Fried Tsukune Skewers, 262 Filet Mignon with Montpellier Butter, 263 Korean Pork Belly Skewers, 262 Lamb Skewers with Mint Yogurt, 263 Pesto Chicken Thigh Skewers, 262 Sous Vide Lamb Skewers, 203 skillets. See cast-iron skillets; nonstick frying pans slaughter, humane, xix, 73, 237 slaw, Sweet Onion Slaw, 165 in Modernist Meatloaf Sandwich, 214-215 slow cookers cutaway illu stration of, 48 sous vide cooking using, 48-49, 60 Slow-Baked Chicken with Onions, 242-243 smoke point, of oils, xxii Smoked Bacon B.L.T., 232 smoked salt Grilling Spice Mix, 139 Redeye Gravy, 96 in Shrimp and Grits, 338-339 Smoky Jerky, 350 snails Snails with Porridge dish of Heston Blumenthal, 331 Sous Vide Braised Snails, 293 in Pressure-Cooked Paella del Bosco, 326-327 in Steel-Cut Oats with So us Vide Braised Snails, 331 snake melon, 77 snapper, best bets for cooking sous vide, 281 sodium citrate about, 69, 71 Aerated Blue Cheese Sauce, 261 Aged White Cheddar Cheese Slice, 318 in Aged White Cheddar on Sourdough with Apples, 318 Baked Mac and Cheese, 312-313 Blue Cheese Sauce, 258,261 variation, 261 Broccoli with Cheese Sauce, 310

SOUS VIDE SETUP sodium citrate (cot~tit~ued) Camembert and Gruyere Cheese

Slice, 318 in Camembert and Gruyere on Brioche with Ham and Mushrooms, 318

Cheese Crumble, 316 in Baked Mac and Cheese,

312-313 Feta Cheese Slice, 319 in Feta on Potato Bread with

Vegetable Confit, 319 Fondue,310 Goat Cheese Slice, 319 in Goat Cheese on Baguette with

Tomato Con fit and Basil, 319 Mac and Cheese, 310-311 variation, 310 Mac and Gruyere, 310

Mac with Goat Gouda and Cheddar, 310

cooling food for, 61 definition of, 48 equilibrium technique of, 60-61

history of, 49

Filet Mignon with Montpellier Butter, 263

during, 66-67 packaging food for, 52-59

Flaky Pie Crust, 372- 373

sorrel, Green Onion and Sorrel Pesto,

102,103 soups. See also chowders; stews

Apple and Parsnip Soup, 181 Artichoke Soup, 180 Bell Pepper Soup, 181 Broccoli- Gruyere Soup, 181 Caramelized Carrot Soup, 178-179 Cauliflower Soup, ISO Chinese Soup, 267 cold. See cold soups Corn Soup, 181 Cream of Mushroom Soup, ISO French Onion Soup, 127

Leek and Onion Soup, 181 Mushroom Soup, ISO Pho Soup, 267 Pressure-Cooked Lobster Bisque,

122 Squash Soup, 180 in Arborio Rice with Caramelized

Squash and Saffron, 330 Thai Soup, 267 Tortilla Soup, 267 sour cream, Sweet Onion Slaw, 165 in Modernist Meatloaf Sandwich,

214-215 Sourdough International, 299 sourdough starters, 299 soursop, 76 sous vide cooking, 48- 67

advantages of, 49 in combi oven, 39

Flan,362 Foamed Lemon Curd, 365 Fragrant Sous Vide Salmon, 137, 276-277 French Scrambled Eggs, 144 in Striped Mushroom Omelet,

148- 149

sealers

reheating by, 61 results with, 48-49 setup for. See sous vide setup steps in, S0- 51 storing food after, xxiv

Halibut, or Sole, 348, 349

variations, 372

tables for, 59 how to seal food in a zip-top bag and, 58 how to use a handheld pump for, 59 vacuum sealers for. See vacuum

water baths for, 62-65 . See also

softening nuts and seeds, 104 sole best bets for cooking so us vide, 281 Microwaved Sea Bass, Tilapia,

Firm Pastry Cream, 375

containers for, 53 how to compress fruits and vege-

310 Mac with Jack and Stilton, 310 Mac with Sharp Cheddar and Swiss, 310 Perfectly Melting Cheese Slice, 317 in French Onion Soup, 127 in Modernist Cheeseburger, 212

variations, 314

hold-at-temperature technique for, 61 how to check the core temperature

Mac with Gorgonzola and Fontina,

in Tuna Confit Salad and Tuna Melt Sandwich, 174 scaling for, 317 to stabilize cheese sauce, 308 Stilton Cheese Slice, 319 in Stilton on Walnut Bread with Shallot Marmalade, 319

sous vide setup (continued) Eggs Sunny-Side Up, 152-153 Egg-Yolk Fluid Gel, 100 "Fat-Free" Mac and Cheese, 314-315

sous vide cooking (co ntinued)

variations, 144

Fruit Curds, 365 Garlic Hollandaise, 106 Garlic Mashed Potatoes, 230 Garlic Oil, 118 Ginger Oil, 118 Ginger Pastry Cream, 375

water baths sous vide setup about, xx

in Ginger Cream Pie, 378

Gingerbread Crust, 372 in Ginger Cream Pie, 378 Green Salad with Romaine Dressing,

Aioli, 108 Amaretto Pastry Cream, 375 in Almond and Cherry Cream Pie, 378

168-169

Bacon Brown Sugar Infusion, 361 Bacon Mayonnaise, 108

in Microwaved Potato Salad, 346 in Pork Belly B.L.T., 232-233 in Smoked Bacon B.L.T., 232 Baked Fish Skin Chips, 279 Basic Chili Oil, 118 Beef Short Ribs with Shiitake Marmalade, 263 Beet Salad, 168 Boneless Yakitori Wings, 256-257 Braised Short Ribs, 228, 229 Brown Butter Crust, 372

in Apple Cream Pie, 379 Brown Fish Stock, 87 Brown Vegetable Stock, 89 Carrot Crust, 372 Cheese Crust, 372 in Savory Cheese Pie, 379 Cheese Grits, 338 Cheese Pastry Cream, 375 Chicken Breast Satay, 263 Chicken Skin Yakitori Skewers, 262 Chocolate Crust, 372 in Chocolate Cream Pie, 378 Chocolate Pastry Cream, 375 in Chocolate Cream Pie, 378 Coconut Crust, 372 in Coconut Cream Pie, 378 Coconut Pastry Cream, 375 in Coconut Cream Pie, 378

variations, 168 Grilled Applesauce, 124 in Aged White Cheddar on Sourdough with Apples, 318 Grilled Pork Chop, 202 Infused-Cream Potato Puree, 230 Korean Pork Belly Skewers, 262 Korean Short-Rib Lettuce Wraps,

221 Lamb Curry, 234-235 Lamb Leg Tajine, 220 Lamb Skewers with Mint Yogurt,

263 Lemon Oil, 118 Lemon Pastry Cream, 375 in Raspberry Lemon Cream Pie,

379 Lobster Roll, 288-289 variation, 288 Mac and Cheddar, 314 Mac and Fontina, 314 Mac and Parmesan, 314

Mini Egg Cups, 144 Mint Infusion, 361 Modernist Hamburger Patty,

208-209 in Modernist Cheeseburger, 212 variation, 208 Modernist Mayonnaise, 108 in Sweet Onion Slaw, 165 variations, 108 Modernist Meatloaf Sandwich,

214-215 Modernist Vichyssoise, 162-164

Coffee Butter, 121 Coffee Creme Brulee, 362-363 variations, 362 cooking clams, 287

variations, 163

Montpellier Butter, 120 in Filet Mignon with Montpellier

for cooking meat, 193

Butter, 263 Mussels Mariniere, 290-291 Olive Oil Scrambled Eggs, 144 in Espagnole Omelet Filling, 145 Onion Fluid Gel, 100

Crispy Chicken or Pork Skin, 279 Crispy Fish Skin, 279 variations, 279 Crustacean Hollandaise, 106

Deviled Eggs, !52 Double Almond Crust, 372 in Almond and Cherry Cream Pie, 378

variation, 100

Peanut Crust, 372 in Banana Cream Pie, 379

INDE X

sous vide setup (continued) Pesto Chicken Thigh Skewers, 262 Porcini Butter, 116, 121 Pork Belly B.L.T., 232- 233 Pork Shoulder Fricassee with Apples and Morels, 220 Pot de Creme, 362 Potato Noodles, 270 Potato Puree, 228, 230-231 variations, 230 Pressure-Infused Coffee Pastry

Cream, 375 in Banana Cream Pie, 379

Puffed Chicken Skin, 254 Raspberry Crust, 372 Raspberry Gazpacho, 156-157 Rosemary Oil, 118 Rouille, 108 in South of France Chowder, 292 Sabayon, 369 Scrambled Egg Pudding, 144 in Steamed Herb Omelet,

146- 147 Shrimp and Grits, 338-339 variation, 338 Smoked Bacon B.L.T., 232 Sous Vide Braised Snails, 293 in Pressure-Cooked Paella del Bosco, 326-327 in Steel-Cut Oats with Sous Vide Braised Snails, 331

Sous Vide Buffalo Wings, 250-251 Sous Vide Carnitas, 219

Sous Vide Chicken, 244-245 in Chicken Noodle Soup, 273 in Farro with Chicken, Arti-

chokes, and Black Olives, 332 Sous Vide Crustacean Butter, 122

So us Vide Fish Stock, 87 in Arborio Rice with Sea Urchin

and Cocoa, 333 in Bell Pepper Soup, 181 variation, 87

Sous Vide Hollandaise, 106-107 variations, 106

Sous Vide Lamb Skewers, 203 Sous Vide Lemon Curd, 365 in Lemon Posset, 364 in Raspberry Lemon Cream Pie,

379 variations, 365

Sous Vide Lemon Herb Oil, 116 Sous Vide Lobster Tail, 288 Sous Vide Pork Belly Adobo, 224 Sous Vide Spiced Chili Oil, 118 in Deep-Fried Tsukune Skewers,

262 in Sichuan Bok Choy, 346-347 in Spiced Chili Dressing, 118 variations, 118

Sous Vide Steak, 192, 194-195 . Sous Vide Steak in a Cooler, 198 Sous Vide Tuna Confit, 174 in Tuna Con fit Salad and Tuna

Melt Sandwich, 174 Sous Vide Turkey Breast, 247

Sous Vide Vanilla Creme Anglaise, 368-369 variation, 369 Sous Vide Vanilla-Cinnamon Pastry

Cream, 374- 375 in Apple Cream Pie, 379 variations, 375

Spicy Hollandaise, 106

XLIX

SOUS VIDE SETUP

sous vide setup (continued) Sweet Potato Puree, 230 Tartar Sauce, 108

Thyme Oil, 118 Turkey Confit, 246 Vanilla Oil, 118 Vegetable Stock, 89. See also vegetables, Vegetable Stock SousVide Supreme vacuum sealer, 6 SousVide Supreme water bath, 6, 62 SousVideMagic digital temperature

controller, 6

spinach (co.Jtir~ued) Creamed Spinach, 194, 199 in Florentine Omelet Filling, 145 in Mac and Parmesan, 314 variation, 199 in Microwave-Fried Parsley, 354

spring-valve press ure cookers, 29 squab breast, best bets for cooking, 245

South of France Chowder, 292 Southeast Asian markets, 75

squash butternut, Squash Soup, 180

Cherry Vinaigrette, 117 Cilantro Vinaigrette, 117 Fines Herbes Vinaigrette with

Pistachio Butter, 117 Home Jus Gras, 93 variation, 93 Modernist Vinaigrette, 117

in Pressure-Cooked Lentil Salad, 175 variations, 117 Sesame Dressing, 117 soy lecithin powder vs., 93

Spiced Chili Dressing, 117 Ultrastable Butter Sauce, 93 Vietnamese-Style Dressing, 117 soy lecithin powder

liquid soy lecithin vs., 93 using, 93 soy sauce

Crispy Beef Strands, 352 in Crispy Beef and Shallot Salad, 353 Kalbi Marinade, 134 Sesame Dressing, 117 Vietnamese-Style Dressing, 117 soybean oil, smoke and flash points of, xxii

soybeans, cattle finished on, 191 Spatchcock Chicken, 241 specialty markets, 73 Spencer, Percy, 40 spice grinders. See coffee grinders spice mixes

about, 135 Autumn Spice Mix, 138 in Gingerbread Crust, 372

Chaat Masala, 136 Chili Spice Mix, 138 in Crispy Skinless Chicken Wings, 254-255 Fish Spice Mix, 137 in Fragrant Sous Vide Salmon,

276- 277 Grilling Spice Mix, 139 MCCurry Powder, 135. See also MCCurry Powder Vindaloo Spice Mix, 135 in Pork Vindaloo with Naan, 221 spice pastes

Achiote Paste, 219 in Pressure-Cooked Carnitas, 219 source for, 75

Spiced Chili Dressing, 117 Spicy Hollandaise, 106 Spicy Jerky, 350 spinach

Pressure-Cooked Fresh-Corn

Tamales, 340-341 variation, 340 star anise Aromatic Chicken Broth, 266

in Chicken Noodle Soup, 273

Pistachio Pesto, 102-103 Spinach Butter, 116, 121, 194 in Bok Choy Medley, 346 Spinach Pesto, 103 spring nettles, 79

South Indian Watercress, 199

soy lecithin, liquid about, 71

stand mixers, with whisk (co11ti11ued)

in Arborio Rice with Caramelized

Squash and Saffron, 330 delicata, Squash Soup, 180

Autumn Spice Mix, 138

in Gingerbread Crust, 372 Pressure-Cooked Pork Belly Adobo, 224-225 so urce for, 75 Sous Vide Pork Belly Adobo, 224 Thai Sweet, Sour, and Savory Glaze,

115 star fruit, 76 starch. See also flour

gelling power of, 320 potato

in Arborio Rice with Caramelized

Squash and Saffron, 330 dumpling, 77

Boneless Yakitori Wings,

zucchini, Mediterranean Vegetable

Crispy Chicken Wings, Korean-

256-257 Style, 252-253

Con fit, 126 in Feta on Potato Bread with

Vegetable Confit, 319 squid ink, Forbidden Rice with Squid Ink and So us Vide Clams, 330 stainless-steel syringes, 16 stand mixers about, 11 with dough hook. See stand mixers,

with dough hook ice-cream attachments for, 12 with meat-grinding attachment . See meat grinders

Montpellier Butter, 120 in Filet Mignon with Montpellier Butter, 263 with paddle. See stand mixers, with paddle with whisk. See stand mixers, with whisk stand mixers, with dough hook Barley Noodles, 271 Coconut Noodles, 271 in Thai Soup, 267 Fresh Egg Noodles, 268-271 in Chicken Noodle Soup, 273 variations, 270-271 Masa Harina Noodles, 270 in Tortilla Soup, 267 Neapolitan Pizza Dough, 296-297 variations, 296

in rice, 320 tapioca. See tapioca starch starter cultures. See poolish

Steamed Herb Omelet, 146-147 steaming, in combi oven, 38

steel plates for baking pizza, 295,301, 304 Pizza Margherita, 304 Steel-Cut Oats with Sous Vide Braised Snails, 331 steel head salmon, 280 Steingarten,Jeffrey, Potato Puree, 230 stews

Oyster Stew, 292 Pressure-Cooked Pork Belly Adobo, 224-225 So us Vide Pork Belly'Adobo, 224 Stilton cheese Mac with Jack and Stilton, 310 Stilton Cheese Slice, 319 in Stilton on Walnut Bread with

Shallot Marmalade, 319 stinging nettles, 78,79 stocks about, 84 Brown Beef Stock in French Onion Soup, 127 in Korean Short-Rib Lettuce Wraps,221 in Pho Soup, 267

Potato Noodles, 270 Quinoa Pizza Dough, 296 Rice Noodles, 271 Rustic Pizza Dough, 298

in Thai Sweet, Sour, and Savory

Glaze, 115 Brown Chicken Stock, 85 in Aromatic Chicken Broth, 266 in Brown Chicken Jus, 92 in Pressure-Cooked Paella del Bosco, 326-327 Brown Pork Stock, 86. See also Brown Pork Stock Brown Vegetable Stock, 89 fish. See fish stock flavors in, 84, 89

variation, 298

Rye Noodles, 270 White Sandwich Bread, 210-211 in Modernist Cheeseburger, 212 in Modernist Meatloaf Sandwich,

214-215 Whole Wheat Noodles, 271 in Chinese Soup, 267 Whole Wheat Pizza Dough, 298

infusing with flavors, 264

Pressure-Cooked Brown Beef Stock, 86 variations, 86

stand mixers, with paddle, White

Sandwich Bread, 210-211 in Modernist Cheeseburger, 212 in Modernist Meatloaf Sandwich,

Pressure-Cooked Crustacean Stock, 88. See also pressure cookers, Pressure-Cooked Crustacean Stock

214-215 stand mixers, with whisk Corn Juice Tamales, 340

Pressure-Cooked Vegetable Stock, 89

Cilantro Pesto, 103

INDEX

stocks (cor~tir~ued) Pressure-Cooked White Chicken Stock, 84-85,247 in Aromatic Chicken Broth, 266 in Sous Vide Braised Snails, 293 variation, 85

Toasted Corn Stock, 90. See also Toasted Corn Stock Vegetable Stock, 89. See also vegetables, Vegetable Stock White Beef Stock, 86 stoves. See also conventional ovens about, 22, 24-25 cutaway illustration of, 36-37 electric, 24

gas, 24 inefficiency of, 24 pot on, using as water bath, 64

Stove-Top Carotene Butter, 116, 121 in Caramelized Carrot Soup,

178-179 variations, 121 strainers, 17 strawberries

Cheese Course, 161 Fruit Minestrone, 158-161 variations, 161

Fruit Salad, 161 P. B. & J. Gelato, 370 Strawberry Juice with Green Apple Foam, 161 Strawberry Macadamia Gelato, 370 Strawberry Marinara, 114

Strawberry Panna Cotta, 161 Striped Mushroom Omelet, 148-149 sugar blowtorching foods containing, 15 brown Bacon Brown Sugar Infusion, 361

Barbecue Ketchup, 110 Fish Brine, 133 variations, 133

Fish Cure, 133 palm . See palm sugar Seaweed Fish Brine, 133 Sweet Brine for Meats, 132 sugar thermometers, 8 sumac, Sous Vide Lamb Skewers, 203 sunchokes

Artichoke Soup, 180 in Vacuum-Pickled Vegetables, 130 sunflower oil, smoke and flash points o~xxii

surprise, as Modernist cuisine principle, xix sustainable aquaculture farms, xix, 72 sweating vegetables, 27 Sweet Brine for Meats, 132

Sweet Onion Slaw, 165 in Modernist Meatloaf Sandwich,

214-215 sweet potatoes Okinawan

photograph of, 77 source for, 74

Sweet Potato Puree, 230 Swiss cheese, Mac with Sharp Cheddar and Swiss, 310 swordfish, in Sous Vide Tuna Confit, 174 syringes. See brine injectors and syringes

TWO-STEP COOKING

thyme (continued) Thyme Oil, liS in Vegetable Stew, ISS

temperature (continued)

dry-bulb vs. wet-bulb, 34 flavor and, science of, 155

of hot tubs, 65

Tierno, Philip, xxiv tilapia, Microwaved Sea Bass, Tilapia,

internal, for grilling steak, 201

tahini Cilantro Vinaigrette, 117

lightness offoams and, 106

Sesame Sponge, 357 tajine, Lamb Leg Tajine, 220

poolish and, 299

in Corn Soup, 181

in pressure cookers, 28, 30, 31 of refrigerator, xxiv, xxv

in Hush Puppies, 340

tamales

Corn Juice Tamales, 340 Pressure-Cooked Fresh-Corn

Tamales, 340-341 variation, 340 tamarind source for, 74 Thai Sweet, Sour, and Savory Glaze,

liS tamis,l7 tapioca maltodextrin, 69 about, 70 Fish Spice Mix, 137 in Fragrant Sous Vide Salmon,

276-277 tapioca starch

Cheese Crumble, 316 in Baked Mac and Cheese, 312-313 Hazelnut Gelato, 370 P. B. &]. Gelato, 370 Pistachio Gelato, 370-371 variations, 370 source for, 75 Strawberry Macadamia Gelato, 370 target temperature for cooking beef sous vide, 64 holding foods at, SO

poultry safety and, 60 taring digital scales, how to, 7 taro

photograph of, 77 sources for, 74, 75 tarragon Fines Herbes Vinaigrette with Pistachio Butter, 117

in Vegetable Stew, ISS Tartar Sauce, 108 tartaric acid, to keep juices fresh, 20

tea Earl Grey Tea Infusion, 361 green, matcha, 74

Green Tea Flavoring, 361 temperature

carbon dioxide solubility and, IS in charcoal grills, 44 of combi oven for so us vide cooking,

51 combination oftime and, for safe cooking, xxv composing salads and, 166 of conventional ovens accuracy of, 22 how to calibrate, 35 inconsistency of, 34

cooking, USDA and FDA guidelines for, xxv, 245, 274 for cooking fish, 274 for cooking tender poultry, 245 for cooking tough cuts of meat, 227 for cooking tough poultry, 245 cooling cooked food and, 61 core. See core temperatures; target temperature

for deep-frying, 26 for dehydrating foods, 21

Halibut, or Sole, 34S Toasted Corn Stock, 90

for making lemon curd, 365

in Pressure-Cooked Fresh-Corn

Tamales, 340-341

for reheating foods, 61 for safe cooking of poultry, 245

in Pressure-Cooked Polenta,

336-337

for storing food cooked so us vide, xxiv for storing vegetables, xxiv target. See target temperature textures of cooked eggs and, 141,

variation, 337 toaster ovens, how to bake salmon in,

27S Toddy coffee cold-brewing kit, 6

142-143

tomatillos

Salsa Verde, Ill source for, 75

of water baths. See water baths, temperature of temperature controls, for sous vide cooking, 49, 60 tender cuts of meat best bets for cooking sous vide, 192 core temperature for cooking so us

tomato juice Barbecue Marinade, 134

So us Vide Lamb Skewers, 203 tomatoes

Barbecue Ketchup, II 0 Bolognese Sauce, ll2 Goulash Broth, 267

vide, 60, 192 tender poultry, best bets for cooking

Kerala Curry Sauce, 104

so us vide, 245 tenderness

Marinara, ll2-113 in Microwaved Eggplant Parmesan, 344-345

offoods cooked sous vide, 49, 61 of fruit leather, 21 texture brining with too much salt and, 16 composing salads and, 166 of potato puree, 17 of steaks cooked so us vide, 186 Thai basil, Thai Sweet, Sour, and Savory

variations, 112

Mughal Curry Sauce, 104-!OS in Lamb Curry, 234-235 in Pressure-Cooked Lamb

Shanks, 234 variations, 104

tuna best bets for cooking sous vide, 281

SousVide Tuna Confit, 174 in Tuna Con fit Salad and Tuna Melt Sandwich, 174 Tuna Con fit Salad and Tuna Melt Sandwich, 174 TurboTorch blowtorch, 6 turkey breast

best bets for cooking, 245 Sous Vide Turkey Breast, 247 legs best bets for cooking, 245 Turkey Con fit, 246 wings, best bets for cooking, 245 turmeric, fresh

Kerala Curry Sauce, 104 Mughal Curry Sauce, 104-105 in Lamb Curry, 234-235 in Pressure-Cooked Lamb

Shanks, 234 variations, 104

Muslim Curry Sauce, 104 source for, 74 turnips in Pressure-Cooked Carrots and

Leeks, 272 Pressure-Cooked Vegetable Jus, !S2 in Vegetable Stew, ISS Pressure-Cooked Vegetables, IS3, 247 in Vegetable Stew, ISS tweezers, long, price and uses of, 6 two-step cooking, in combi oven, 39

in Hawaiian Pizza, 303

Thai chilies

Pizza Cruda, 307

Mango Chili Leather, 129

Pizza Sauce, 112

Vietnamese Marinade, 134

Pork Belly B.L.T., 232-233

Thai eggplant photograph of, 77

Pressure-Caramelized Ketchup, 110 in Modernist Cheeseburger, 212 variation, 110 Strawberry Marinara, 114 sun-dried, Mac and Parmesan, 314

source for, 75

Thai Soup, 267 thermocouple thermometers, 8 thermometers

analog, S for deep-frying, S, 26 digital. See digital thermometers high-temperature, S

Tomato Con fit, 12S

infrared, 8 instant-read, 8 checking core temperature in a

Tomato Leather, 129

in Goat Cheese on Baguette with

Tomato Con fit and Basil, 319 in Tomato Leather, 129 in Lobster Roll, 2SS-2S9 variations, 129

zip-top bag using, 66 oven probe. See digital thermometers, with oven probe sugar, 8 thermocouple, 8 ThermoWorks thermometer, 6

Tomato Sofrito, 112 in Espagnole Omelet Filling, 145 Tortilla Soup, 267 tools. See also specific tools conventional, 22-47 countertop, 5-21

availability of, S-21

thickening

cost of, 5

problems with, solutions to, 99 of sauces, 94

Tortilla Soup, 267 tough cuts of meat best bets for cooking, 22S collagen in, 227

with Ultra-Sperse 3, 199 with Wondra, 95 thickness of food, sous vide cooking time and,61

core temperature for cooking sous

vide, 60, 22S

Thompson, David, Crispy Beef and Shallot Salad, 353 thyme

science of cooking, 227

tough poultry, best bets for cooking, 245

Chervil, Thyme, and Scallion Pes to,

102, 103

Tsukune, 263 in Deep-Fried Tsukune Skewers, 262

Muslim Curry Sauce, 104 Pineapple Marinara, ll2

Glaze, liS in Crispy Beef and Shallot Salad, 353

lemon, So us Vide Lemon Herb Oil,

trumpet mushrooms, black, Mushroom Puree, 150. See also mushrooms, Mushroom Puree

116

INDE X

ULTRAFROTHY MILK SHAKE

Ultrafrothy Milk Shake, 213 Ultra-Sperse 3, 199 Ultrastable Butter Sauce, 93 United States, meat grades in, 190 U .S. Department of Agriculture

(USDA) cooking temperature guidelines of,

=v meat-grading system of, 190 U.S. Food and Drug Administration cooking temperature guidelines of,

xxv, 245, 274 food storage guidelines of, 54 Uovo Pizza, 307

v vacuum sealers

about, 54- 56 advantages of, 54 bags for, 53, 54 Baked Fish Skin Chips, 279 Barley Noodles, 271 Boneless Yakitori Wings, 256-257 Braised Short Ribs, 228, 229

vacuum sea lers, with marinating attachment

in Waldorf Salad, 131 Vacuum-Pickled Vegetable s, 130 vacuum storage containers, Vacuum-

Pickled Vegetables, 130- 131 vacuum-sealed bags, checking core temperature in, 67 vanilla seeds

Cilantro Vinaigrette, 117

about, 368

Fines Herbes Vinaigrette with Pistachio Butter, 117 Modernist Vinaigrette, 117 in Pressure-Cooked Lentil Salad,

368-369

175

variation, 369 Sous Vide Vanilla-Cinnamon Pastry

Cream, 374-375 in Apple Cream Pie, 379 variations, 375 substituting vanilla extract for, 368

Vanilla Oil, 118 La Varenne, xiv, xviii

Vegetable Stew, 185 vegetables. See also specific vegetables best bets for cooking in the microwave oven, 347

Brown Vegetable Stock, 89 contamination of, xxiv how to compress for vacuum sealing,

variations, 117

Vindaloo Spice Mix, 135 in Pork Vindaloo with Naan, 221 Vines-Rushing, Allison, xv

vital wheat gluten about, 70 Barley Noodles, 271 Buckwheat Pizza Dough, 296 Coconut Noodles, 271 in Thai Soup, 267 Fresh Egg Noodles, 268-271 in Chicken Noodle Soup, 273 variations, 270-271 Masa Harina Noodles, 270

in Tortilla Soup, 267 Neapolitan Pizza Dough, 296-297

59 Leeks, 272 Pressure-Cooked Vegetable Jus, 182 in Vegetable Stew, 185

for cooking sous vide, SO

Pressure-Cooked Vegetable Stock,

Crispy Chicken or Pork Skin, 279 Crispy Fish Skin, 279 variations, 279 cutaway illustration of, 55 food safety with, 54 Fresh Egg Noodles, 268 - 271 in Chicken Noodle Soup, 273 variations, 270-271

89 Pressure-Cooked Vegetables, 183, 247 in Vegetable Stew, 185 pressure-cooking, science of, 177

shavings of, for salads, 167

Lamb Curry, 234- 235 leftover storage and, 61

storing, xx.iv sweating, 27 unusual, 77 in Vacuum-Infused Celery, 131 variation, 131

with marinating attachment. See vacuum sealers, with marinating attachment

Vacuum-Pickled Vegetables, 130- 131 Vegetable Risotto, 328-329

Masa Harina Noodles, 270 in Tortilla Soup, 267 Modernist Vichyssoise, 162-164

Vegetable Stock, 89

lll

Roasted-Potato Vichyssoise, 163 Vichyssoise with Potato Peel Reduction, 163 Vietnamese Marinade, 134 Vietnamese-Style Dress ing, 117 vinaigrettes Cherry Vinaigrette, 117

Cinnamon Vanilla Infusion, 361 Sous Vide Vanilla Creme Anglaise,

in Pressure-Cooked Carrots and

Pork Belly B.L.T., 232-233 Potato Noodles, 270 Pressure-Cooked Pork Belly, 232 problems with, solutions for, 57 Rice Noodles, 271 Roasted-Potato Vichyssoise, 163 safety tip for, 54 Smoked Bacon B.L.T., 232 So us Vide Buffalo Wings, 250-251 Tomato Confit, 128 in Goat Cheese on Baguette with Tomato Confit and Basil, 319 in Tomato Leather, 129 Turkey Con fit, 246 types of, 52, 53, 54 Vichyssoise with Potato Peel Reduction, 163 Whole Wheat Noodles, 271 in Chinese Soup, 267

variations, 163

variation, 131

Chicken Skin Yakitori Skewers, 262 Coconut Noodles, 271 in Thai Soup, 267

variations, 163

about, ISS Modernist Vichyssoise, 162-164

Vacuum-Infused Celery, 131 in Lobster Roll, 288-289

brands, price, and uses of, 6

how to use, 56

vichyssoise

variations, 296

No-Knead Pizza Dough, 300 in pizza dough, 295 Potato Noodles, 270 Quinoa Pizza Dough, 296 Rice Noodles, 271 Rustic Pizza Dough, 298 variation, 298

Rye Noodles, 270 Whole Wheat Noodles, 271 in Chinese Soup, 267 Whole Wheat Pizza Dough, 298 vitamin C. See ascorbic acid Vita mix blender, 6 Vongerichten,Jean-Georges, 20

variation, 329

w Wagyu beef, 190, 191 Waldorf Salad, 131 walnut oil, smoke point of, xxiii walnuts

Sauce Verte, 102, 103 Waldorf Salad, 131 warehouse stores, 72 warming foods, with a microwave oven,

41 water

boiling point of at high elevation, 30 in pressure cooker, 28, 30,31 for cooking beans, science of, 217 deionized, for cooking beans, 217 distilled, for cooking beans, 217 hard, cooking beans in, science of, 217 soft, cooking beans in, science of, 217 water baths. See also so us vide cooking; sous vide setup

about, 62 advantages of, 60 brands, price, and uses of, 6

circulating, 62-63 efficiency of, 24 improvised, 64-65, 193 noncirculating, 62 overcrowding, 60

preheating, 51 for reheating leftovers, 61 temperature of, 51,64

controlling with digital temperature controller, 65 for cooking frozen foods, 61 for equilibrium cooking, 60

lightness offoams and, 106 water displacement, how to seal food in

a zip-top bag by, 58 watercress

South Indian Watercress, 199 in Vegetable Stew, 185 wild, 79 watermelon, vacuum sealing, 59 water-vapor ovens, 34 wet-rendering fats, 123 wheat gluten. See also vita l wheat gluten pizza crust and, 295 whey protein isolate

about, 70 Clams in Chowder Sauce, 292 variations, 292

in Cauliflower Soup, 180 in Farro with Chicken, Artichokes, and Black Olives,

Oyster Stew, 292 Pistachio Clam Chowder, 292 South of France Chowder, 292 Ultrafrothy Milk Shake, 213

332 in Pressure-Cooked Risotto, 329 in Quinoa with Pistachio Pesto and Asparagus, 332 variations, 89

whipping siphons, S

about, 18, 83 Aerated Blue Cheese Sauce, 261 Apple Foam, 376 in Apple Cream Pie, 379 BiltongJerky, 350

in Vegetable Risotto, 328-329 Vegetarian Panna Cotta, 366

velveting, 249, 252-253 venison, in Microwaved BeefJerky,

brands, price, and uses of, 6

350-351

for brining, 132 Chocolate Cream Pie, 376, 378 Crispy Skinless Chicken Wings, 254-255

Veyrat, Marc, xii, 78 Via lone Nano rice cooking times for, 324 parcooking times for, 325 Pressure-Cooked Risotto, 329

Crustacean Hollandaise, 106 cutaway illustration of, 19

Vegetable Risotto, 328-329

Foamed Lemon Curd, 365 foaming with, 19

variation, 329

INDEX

ZUCC HINI

whipping siphons (continued) French Scrambled Eggs, 144 in Striped Mushroom Omelet,

148- 149 variations, 144

Fruit Curds, 365 Garlic Hollandaise, 106 hissing sound made by, 19 how to use, 18- 19 Instant Chocolate Sponge, 356-357 variations, 357 kidney beans and, 2.17 Microwaved BeefJerky, 350-351 variations, 350 Mini Egg Cups, 144 Olive Oil Scrambled Eggs, 144 in Espagnole Omelet Filling, 145 Pressure-Infused Celery, 131 Pressure-Infused Coffee Pastry Cream, 375 in Banana Cream Pie, 379 pressure-infusing with, 18 pressure-marinating with, 18

Refried Bean Foam, 2.2.3 variations, 223 Refried Bean Puree, 223

Sabayon, 369 Smoky Jerky, 350 Sous Vide Hollandaise, 106-107 variations, 106

Sous Vide Lamb Skewers, 2.03 Sous Vide Lemon Curd, 365 in Lemon Posset, 364 in Raspberry Lemon Cream Pie,

379 variations, 365 Spicy Hollandaise, 106 Spicy Jerky, 350 Strawberry Juice with Green Apple Foam, 161 Vacuum-Pickled Vegetables, 131 whisks handheld, 11 Eggs Sunny-Side Up, 152.-153 stand mixers with. See stand mixers, with whisk White Beef Stock, 86 white king salmon, 2.80 white miso, MushroomJus,91

wild mushrooms, 78-79. See also chanterelles; maitake mushrooms; morels; oyster mushrooms; porcini mushrooms; shiitake mushrooms

xanthan gum, 69

Barley with Wild Mushrooms and Red Wine, 331 Funghi Pizza, 303

about, 70, 83, 94 Bacon Mayonnaise, 108 in Microwaved Potato Salad, 346

wild watercress, 79 Wilton silicone mats, 6, 9 wine

in Pork Belly B.L.T., 2.32.-2.33 in Smoked Bacon B.L.T., 2.32. Barbecue Ketchup, 110

port, Shallot and Port Wine Marmalade, 319 in Stilton on Walnut Bread with Shallot Marmalade, 319 red Barley with Wild Mushrooms and Red Wine, 331 Red Wine Glaze. See glazes, Red

Caramelized Onion Gravy, 101

Chervil, Thyme, and Scallion Pesto, 102.,103 Cilantro Pesto, 103 Creamed Spinach, 194, 199 in Florentine Omelet Filling, 145 in Mac and Parmesan, 314 variation, 199

Wine Glaze rice. See rice wine

Fruit Leather, 12.9

Shaoxing. See Shaoxing wine

Green Onion and Sorrel Pesta, 102,

103 Hazelnut Gelato, 370 Home Jus Gras, 93

Wondra about, 70

Aerated Blue Cheese Sauce, 261 Blue Cheese Sauce, 2.58, 2.61

variation, 93

Instant Chocolate Sponge, 356-357

variation, 261

variations, 357

Creamed Spinach, 194, 199 in Florentine Omelet Filling, 145 in Mac and Parmesan, 314 variation, 199 Crispy Chicken Wings, Korean-

Style, 2.52.-2.53 Instant Chocolate Sponge, 356-357 variations, 357

Mango Chili Leather, 12.9 Onion Leather, 12.9 for pan gravy, 95 Passion Fruit Glaze, 376 in Coconut Cream Pie, 378

P. B.&]. Gelato, 370 Pistachio Gelato, 370-371 variations, 370

pan gravy, 95 Peanut Butter Sponge, 357 Raspberry Macadamia Nut Sponge, 357 Sesame Sponge, 357

Pistachio Pesto, 102.-103. See also pistachios, Pistachio Pesta Pressure-Caramelized Ketchup, 110 in Modernist Cheeseburger, 212 variation, 110

South Indian Watercress, 199

Pressure-Cooked Drippings, 101

Stilton Cheese Slice, 319 in Stilton on Walnut Bread with Shallot Marmalade, 319 thickening with, 95 Tsukune, 2.63

variation, 101

Raspberry Gazpacho, 156-157 Roasted Red Pepper Pesto, 103 Sauce Verte, 102., 103 South Indian Watercress, 199

wood sorrel, 78 Wrangham, Richard, 22 writing recipes, 7

Spinach Pesto, 103 Strawberry Macadamia Gelato, 370

Strawberry Panna Cotta, 161 Tomato Leather, 129

in Cream of Mushroom Soup, 150 in Mushroom Puree, 150 in Mushroom Soup, 180

in Lobster Roll, 2.88-2.89 variations, 129

Yakitori Sauce, 2.59, 2.60 in Boneless Yakitori Wings, 2.56-2.57 in Chicken Skin Yakitori Skewers,

2.62. in Tsukune, 263 yellow foot mushrooms, 78

Funghi Pizza, 303 yogurt Mediterranean Yogurt Marinade,

134 Mint Yogurt, 2.63 Young, Chris, xiii

Modernist Cuisine, xii, xiv, xv, xvii, xviii yuca 1 77

z zabaglione, 360 OOflour about, 2.71 Barley Noodles, 2.71 Buckwheat Pizza Dough, 2.96 Coconut Noodles, 2.71 in Thai Soup, 2.67 Masa Harina Noodles, 270

in Tortilla Soup, 2.67 Neapolitan Pizza Dough, 2.96-2.97 variations, 296

Potato Noodles, 2.70 Rice Noodles, 2.71 Rye Noodles, 2.70 Zhu,Johnny, Microwaved Black Cod with Scallions and Ginger, 348-349 zip-top bags for cooking so us vide, SO, 51, 53 checking core temperature in, 66

how to seal food in, 58 limitations for long cooking periods,

2.2.9 ported, for cooking sous vide, 53, 59 zucchini, Mediterranean Vegetable

Confit, 12.6 in Feta on Potato Bread with

Vegetable Confit, 319

Ultrastable Butter Sauce, 93 Vegetarian Panna Cotta, 366

white poppy seeds. See poppy seeds, white

White Sandwich Bread, 2.10-2.11 in Modernist Cheeseburger, 212 in Modernist Meatloaf Sandwich,

2.14-2.15 white wine vinegar, Vacuum-Pickled

Vegetables, 130 Whole Lamb Shank, 2.34 Whole Shoulder, 2.19 whole wheat flour

Poolish, 2.99 in Rustic Pizza Dough, 298 in Whole Wheat Pizza Dough,

2.98 Whole Wheat Noodles, 2.71 in Chinese Soup, 2.67 Whole Wheat Pizza Dough, 2.98 wild berries, 79 wild currants, 78

wild leeks, 79 wild licorice, 79

IN 0 EX

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Colophon This first edition, second printing of Modernist Cuisine at Home was printed by Shenzhen Artron Color Printing Co., Ltd., of Shenzhen, China. Print management by iocolor, LLC, of Seattle, Washington. Design by Modernist Cuisine, LLC, of Bellevue, Washington. Published by The Cooking Lab, LLC, of Bellevue, Washington. http:// modernistcuisine.com Printed using stochastic color separation and Chroma Centric inks on Stora Enso 128 gsm matte art paper. Typefaces used include Arno Pro, Optima Nova, Whitney, and Square 721.

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