Six O’Clock Solution: Red wine and bacon elevate this kidney-bean dish

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Like money in the bank, a variety of staples in your kitchen is good security.

Boston cookbook author Christopher Kimball has produced a book called Cook What You Have (Little, Brown/Hachette, $44), in which he recommends 25 must-have pantry supplies. It is handsomely illustrated with Connie Miller’s photographs.

Kimball, who runs the Milk Street cooking school and media shows, likes such off-beat specialties as harissa paste, pomegranate molasses and oyster sauce. His 225 recipes use plenty of down-to-earth products, such as canned beans, meat and fish, tomatoes, pasta and cheese. Typical of his lively pantry-based recipes is today’s bean dish, which he likes for its “beef bourguignon-like flavours.”

Tuna is a favourite and he varies this fish, with one dish combining chickpeas and roasted red peppers, another tuna patties with a yogurt-caper sauce. Kimball keeps his refrigerator packed with fresh vegetables, mushrooms and condiments. Flavours are livened up with such products as anchovies, ginger root and olives.

He maintains that there’s no need to shop daily if you are prepared at home. Instead of shopping with a checklist, Kimball urges us “to behave like a real cook who can make something delicious from whatever is available.”

Bacon and Red Wine-Braised Kidney Beans

Serves 4

4 ounces (100 g/5 to 6 slices) bacon, chopped

2 medium carrots, thinly sliced

1 medium onion, finely chopped

2 cans (19 ounces/540 mL size) red kidney beans, rinsed

1 cup (250 mL) dry red wine

1 cup (250 mL) lightly packed fresh flat-leaf parsley, chopped

Kosher salt

Freshly ground pepper

In a large, heavy frying pan, fry the bacon over medium-high heat until browned and crisp, 5 to 8 minutes. Drain on paper towels and chop.

Heat fat in the pan and cook carrots and onion, stirring occasionally, until lightly browned, about 7 minutes. (If preferred, discard bacon fat and replace with vegetable oil.)

Add beans, wine and 1 cup (250 mL) water. Bring to a simmer, scraping up any browned bits. Lower heat, cook uncovered, stirring occasionally, until only a little liquid remains and beans begin to split, 10 to 15 minutes.

Remove from heat and stir in the parsley and half the bacon. Check seasoning, adding salt and pepper to taste.

Serve, sprinkled with the remaining bacon.

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