Renée Kohlman: A nice light snack for those hot summer days

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With summer in full swing, meals tend to get a little lighter.

The thought of tucking into a hearty soup or stew makes me break out into a sweat — and I’m sweaty enough! Bring on big salads, bowls of pasta bursting with fresh herbs, grilled vegetables, and of course burgers off the grill.

I also like to plan meals that don’t require a great deal of heat to cook, as my house tends to be an oven itself. I eat plenty of sandwiches and charcuterie platters in the summer. Easy to prepare and always satisfying.

Crepes are another meal I have in heavy rotation in the summer. The eggy batter is so easy to prepare, and requires the simplest of ingredients. I love crepes when they’re filled with fresh berries, thin ribbons of mint or basil, and a drizzle of maple syrup. If I want to really push the boat out, I’ll add a dollop of whipped ricotta or mascarpone cheese. Big yums there! But crepes also make a satisfying supper and can be a great vehicle for vegetables and cheese too.

Crepes are always a treat to make, and I quite like the savoury spin I’m giving them with this recipe. The batter can be prepared ahead of time, and so can the crepes. Just wrap the crepes tightly and either refrigerate for a few days or freeze for a few weeks. Kids can pull up a chair and help to flip the crepes. It’s so satisfying when they land neatly in the pan. And if one goes askew, no worries, just gently nudge it back in the centre of the pan. And, you don’t need a fancy crepe pan to make gorgeous crepes. Any non-stick skillet will do.

The mushroom filling uses cremini and shitake, but any combination of mushrooms works well. Sautéed with onion, garlic, and fresh thyme, your house will smell amazing. Cream is added to make a rich sauce but the little bit of lemon adds a tangy zip as well. I kept these crepes vegetarian, but if you wanted to slide in some thin slices of ham or bacon, that would be next level delicious. The gouda is great, but Parmesan or Gruyère would be excellent as well. Keep these crepes in mind for a lazy weekend brunch, or a satisfying weeknight supper. Simply serve with a green salad, bursting with in-season vegetables.

Creamy Mushroom and Gouda Crepes

Crepes:
2 large eggs, at room temperature
1/2 cup whole milk
1/2 cup plus 2 tbsp water, divided
1 cup all-purpose flour
1/4 tsp salt
2 tbsp melted butter
2 tbsp canola oil

Filling:
2 tbsp butter
1/2 cup diced red onion
2 garlic cloves, minced
454 g assorted mushrooms, such as cremini and shitake, cut into 1/4-inch thick slices
2 tsp chopped fresh thyme leaves (or 1/2 tsp dried)
1/2 tsp salt
1/4 tsp pepper
2 tbsp fresh lemon juice
1/2 cup whipping cream
1 tsp grainy Dijon mustard
2 tbsp chopped fresh parsley, plus more for garnish
1 cup shredded Gouda cheese (or Gruyère, Parmesan)

1. To make the crepes: Place the eggs, milk and water in a blender. Blend on medium speed for 30 seconds. Add the flour, salt, and melted butter. Blend for 45 seconds until smooth. Transfer the batter to a medium bowl. Cover and refrigerate for 20 minutes. During this time, slice the onion, mushrooms, and grate the cheese.

2. After the batter has chilled, cook the crepes. Heat a 10-inch nonstick skillet over medium heat for one minute. Add a 1/2 teaspoon or so of oil, using a pastry brush to coat the pan. Add 1/4 cup of batter to the skillet. Moving quickly, tilt the skillet to coat the pan evenly with the batter. Cook until the edges pull away from the skillet and the crepe is lightly brown underneath, 45 seconds to one minute. Use a spatula to loosen the crepe, then flip it over and cook for another 20 seconds or so. Slide the crepe out of the pan and onto a plate. Repeat with remaining batter. Makes about six to eight crepes. Cover the stack of crepes loosely with foil to keep warm.

3. To make the mushroom filling: In a large 12-inch skillet, melt the butter over medium heat. Add the onion and cook for one minute. Stir in the garlic and cook for another minute until fragrant.

4. Stir in the mushrooms and thyme, stirring to coat. Season with the salt and pepper. Sauté until the mushrooms have released their liquid, about six to seven minutes, stirring often. Add the lemon juice and cook for another minute.

5. Turn the heat to medium-low. Stir in the cream and Dijon mustard. Cook for a minute until the sauce thickens. Stir in the parsley. Adjust the seasoning to taste.

6. To assemble the crepes: Fill each crepe evenly with the mushroom mixture. Top with cheese. Fold over into a fan shape. Garnish with parsley and serve immediately. Serves three to four.

Renée Kohlman has been cooking and baking professionally for over 20 years. Her best-selling debut cookbook, All the Sweet Things (TouchWood Editions), received accolades at the 2018 Taste Canada Awards. Her second cookbook, Vegetables: A Love Story (TouchWood Editions), was named one of the top 100 books in 2021 by The Globe and Mail. Renée is often in her kitchen, baking gourmet cookies, which she sells at the Saskatoon Farmers’ Market every weekend.

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