Switchback Saturdays: Gran Canaria by VeloVegano

Last Saturday January 6th, Gran Canaria was in the spotlight for the first SwitchbackSaturday of the year, and we – Ewa & Constantin from VeloVegano – hosted a ride along the route we had submitted for the occasion.

A blip in the weather meant we moved it from the actual Saturday to Sunday, and several people we were hoping would join us were sick or otherwise unavailable, including those who had planned to drive some of us to the start point..!

These obstacles surmounted, one 07:30am(-ish..!) start and a 34km ‘commute’ ride behind us, we reached the meeting point with a group of eight, grabbing a coffee in the cool shady morning at El Eucalipto Gordo in sleepy Mogan pueblo.

As we donned jackets and huddled around beverages and snacks, a few more friendly faces joined us, and soon it was time to roll out in search of sun and switchbacks!

The start was on the gentle two-part climb to los Azulejos, the famous green rocks in low morning light as our group settled into a chatting pace rhythm.

Our friend Diana was stricken by an upset tummy early on and waved us off, our sole American (or Francaise..?!) representative taking an early exit to conquer switchbacks another day, and by the time we reached the mirador de Tasartico viewpoint above La Aldea, our group had stretched out quite a bit.

The view to Tenerife was terrifically clear as we gazed beyond the plantations of La Aldea and the jagged Dragons tail profile of Gran Canaria’s westermost reaches, and indeed one of our number would be boarding a ferry to our neighbouring isle later this day!

We regrouped before starting the descent, where in order to save a few kilometres and keep within the Switchback Saturdays route criteria, I had plotted the route down a small shortcut straight into the village of La Aldea de San Nicolas. We always say ‘never leave La Aldea without refilling bottles and grabbing snacks‘, as the remote village is exited only by difficult ways out, so in keeping with tradition, the next supermarket saw us load up for the scorching valley traverse we were bound for next.

Spirits were high as we rolled off towards the ‘ruta de las presas‘ or ‘valley of the dams’; the rough road and tough gradients leading inland towards Artenara and Tejeda. Laughter distracted us from the beads of sweat forming on our brows as we rolled under unblemished blue skies, still air offering no cooling respite.

Climbing past dam after dam, the hairpins in this valley are the most densely stacked anywhere on the island, and make for imposing obstacles as the views they offer become more impressive with each abrupt about-face in direction.

After passing the panorama seen from Presa del Paralillo of Roques Bentayga and Nublo and the mill tower, we were now stood before the main course of the day: the valley of the tears (VotT).

At this junction of difficult decisions, Richard peeled off to catch his Tenerife-bound ferry, via Artenara and the joyous GC-220, passing over the prospect of tackling ‘the VotT’ with bikepacking bags in favour of undiscovered roads.. ! Thanks for making the trip!!

Well, the first part of the VotT isn’t called ‘the wall’ without reason, and each of our group had their own struggles to face down as they scaled its punishing gradients- well into the 20%s ! For some it was easier than they remembered it- having only ridden it in the fearsome ‘Desafio La Titanica’ race that goes through here in March, but Karl- fresh off the plane yesterday from wintery Sweden, was assailed by the dreaded cramp monster.. !

The wall conquered, a battering down the short descent on the bumpy road leads straight into the next obstacle- escaping from Carrizal de Tejeda- where the steepest 25% ramps sap any strength from your legs as the sweat pours forth with reckless abandon- it is damn scenic though, if you can tear your eyes away to steal a glimpse behind you!

Next is the goat farm, and once you leave the stench and the midway mark at km6 behind you, the worst is truly conquered.

The nature of the climb being what it is, some of our number had simply gritted their teeth and given the beast a taste of its own medicine, riding some strong times and being patient enough to wait for the others, only for Jolanda Neff to breeze past as if out for a Sunday stroll, with later strava analysis showing she had been minutes quicker than any of our group- I guess they are called professionals for a reason!

While we had all been meeeeelting on the sun exposed, midday, steep, wind-less climb, we suddenly entered another world in the shadows of the road towards Tejeda, the near constant wintertime shade here leaving us exposed to a perceived 20 degree temperature drop in an instant- brrr ! There was once a water fountain at a small detour to the mirador de Timagada where I hoped to refill some ravaged bidons, but alas it offered us not a drop today, so we headed onward to our first dead-end of the day: El Espinillo and Roque Bentayga.

This little known hairpin-tastic gem sits in one of the most beautiful areas of the island, under the constant watch of the emblematic, towering stony monolith within the Tejeda crater. Zig zagging down the hillsides to a minute pueblito, some of our group opted to skip the extra descent and subsequent climb back up, but I was impressed to see Karl had joined us on the way down- perhaps unaware that more 20% gradients would need to be bested to escape back out of here- good man!

Leaving ‘Villa Moron’ near the nadir, Mike put the foot down and we could only watch him sail past with his smooth high-cadence style, nabbing a strava crown to elevate the ride to a suitable zenith. Those of us taking a slower pace will have had more opportunity to appreciate the wonderful switchbacks and undulations of this tranquil road, and we all soaked up the beauty as we regathered at the Roque Bentayga viewpoint- one group photo finally taken!

Right, now- water!! Everyone was parched at this point, and Ayacata and it’s promise of the opportunity to replenish bottles was forefront on our minds. More pros from Uno-X team passed us on the way, but we had quite a ride behind us so far: only 67km, in 4 hours.. But with 2700m of elevation completed! Of course it being Sunday saw our favourite Ayacata haunt Casa Melo closed, and in fact the only place open ran out of agua sin gas, leaving some of us to drink the off-tasting tap water instead- shure lookit..

At this point, kramp-Karl, Morten (muscle) and super Susan headed for home through Fataga, but we picked up our buddy Magnus and a friend of his who joined us as we remounted and headed for presa las niñas. A heavy meringue of cloud was sitting in the distance below us, but it was still a pleasant mountain afternoon, attention required as ever as we rode ‘the line‘ down the abysmally surfaced road towards the picturesque mountain reservoir.

We met an English bikepacker along the way, his bright yellow jersey fitting into our rainbow of gathered cyclists wonderfully, and we descended the final dead end of the route together; down to Barranquillo Andres, at the top of the Soria climb.

Only four of our original gang decided to take in even this last detour, our Polish crew of Michal, Marta and Milosz continuing down to the coast via Las Filipinas, and Ewa staying at the top for photos. So it was that Mike, Michael, Ivan and I set about the final ascent of the day. It goes by many names: El Pinar, Salto del Perro, the sh*tty part of Soria, Tauropass, or ‘the chickenladder’ in German, but everybody knows it and its steep gradients, tight hairpins and shocking road surface- now at an all-time low after a gravel explosion of sorts seemingly ripped apart an entire section of late.

Delighted to have that behind us and facing into pure switchback heaven for our final descent home, we took a small moment to reflect on the momentous day behind us- an adventure that had been shared with so many wonderful souls!

Gold began to surround us as we cruised around the joyous twists and turns of ‘serenity’ in the early evening light, our last switchbacks for the day- no better way to finish it!!

As the fates had it, we did of course need to tick off another ‘commute’ ride home, and with our challenge for the day now complete, we made haste to beat the waning sunlight.

We love an excuse for an adventure, and a big thank you to Luke from Switchback Saturdays and CyclingSpots for providing this one; an inspiration that brought friends new and old together, revelling in mountain magic!