Agua Fria National Monument reveals Arizona's wild side

When Sarah Striker arrived from Michigan to study archaeology at Arizona State University in 2008, she’d never heard of the Agua Fria National Monument. To her, the monument “sounded like it must be a statue, or something.”

Then a friend encouraged her to visit the 70,900 acres of protected lands, 40 miles north of Phoenix along Interstate 17.

“My first impression,” Striker said, “was awe.”

She’s since learned about hundreds of archaeological sites and visited where Native Americans thrived more than 800 years ago. And she’s marveled at spectacular scenery that few would suspect if only whizzing past on the interstate.

After years of exploring, Striker now helps lead conservation efforts as a board member and former president of the Friends of the Agua Fria National Monument. She stands ready to assist anyone in experiencing these wonders for themselves.

Striker adds an important caution: The monument is rugged. It’s kept that way by the Bureau of Land Management, which oversees it. Enjoying its distinctive features demands vigilance from even seasoned outdoor enthusiasts.

Why was the monument created?

National monuments are defined as places of historic, scenic or scientific interest preserved usually by presidential proclamation. Agua Fria’s designation dates to Jan. 11, 2000.

As noted in the presidential proclamation: “The monument contains one of the most significant systems of late prehistoric sites in the American Southwest. Between 1250 and 1450, its pueblo communities were populated by up to several thousand people.”

Petroglyphs, pottery and other artifacts provide important archaeological evidence.

Remains of several pueblo communities still exist, some that contained at least 100 rooms. One, Pueblo La Plata, is open to the public and accessible from the unpaved Bloody Basin Road off I-17 (Exit 259). An approximately 10-mile drive, much of which requires a high-clearance vehicle, leads to a narrow path and a hike of several hundred yards to Pueblo La Plata.

Striker and other members of the Friends group have mapped many other historic places. One member, Mike Hoogendyk, estimates he’s logged more than 750 prehistoric habitation structures since the early 2000s.

What else is special about the monument?

Ron Tipton, manager of the sprawling area for the BLM, said that it’s “the river itself and the history surrounding that river.” The Agua Fria River enters the high hills at the northern end of the monument and extends to Black Canyon City on the south. (“Agua fria” translates from Spanish as “cold water.”)

Tipton said the upper Agua Fria watershed was critically important in giving life to native people and animals. Water from the Agua Fria and its tributaries continues to feed the diverse environment.

How diverse is that environment?

Grassy plains beckon on sprawling mesas. Those give way to steep hillsides and canyons. Not far from rocky desert-like areas, you find lush greenery where the river and streams flow, or are dry in places, depending on the season.

Plant and animal life includes many species of birds, endangered fish and reptiles. The diversity of animal life includes larger species than you might expect as elevations rise from about 2,000 feet to more than 4,000.

“I was surprised to find bear scat on a hike,” Striker said. “Bear scat!”

What activities are available?

Recreational opportunities include hiking, primitive camping, bird watching (nearly 200 species have been identified) and archaeological site viewing. Check BLM regulations for hunting, mountain biking, horseback riding or four-wheel driving on the monument’s approximately 100 miles of designated routes.

The Badger Springs Trailhead can be reached from Exit 256 of I-17. Take a gravel road for 1 mile to the trailhead.

Two educational sites are easily reached by car using Quail Run Road in the Cordes Lakes area. They are the remains of an 1891 schoolhouse and the Teskey Home Site, a farm homesteaded in the 1940s.

Plan your trip on the BLM website and visit either of these welcome centers: Black Canyon Heritage Park at the southern edge of the monument (I-17 Exit 244 at Black Canyon City) or the High Desert Heritage Museum and Visitor Information Center (Exit 262 at Cordes Junction). Ask for a detailed BLM map.

Or contact the 100-member Friends of Agua Fria National Monument. Check out its website for opportunities to join recreational activities.

What precautions must be taken?

• In summer, heat necessitates appropriate clothing, use of sunscreen and an ample supply of water. “Take twice what you think you’ll need,” Striker said.
• The possibility of flash floods in low-lying areas means you must be aware of weather conditions, particularly during monsoon season. Rain any time of year can make dirt roads treacherous.
• Careful planning and maps are essential. It's easy to get lost with few marked roads and trails.
• Give wildlife a wide berth. Rattlesnakes, scorpions and javelinas are numerous. Mountain lions live in the area, as do pronghorns, mule and white-tailed deer, bears and other species.

More about Friends of the Agua Fria

Tipton of the BLM says he’s “blown away” by the group’s dedication that leads to many preservation and recreation activities.

Typical is an ongoing “wet/dry” mapping of the Agua Fria. This is the 10th year of a project to measure water levels and places where the water disappears. It’s a test of the health of the ecosystem — for some species, nothing short of a survival test.

The Friends also are responsible for the 1891 schoolhouse and Teskey Home Site preservation projects.

“This is such an amazing place,” Striker said. “Every time I go, I see something new. We’re happy to help and make recommendations (to the BLM).”

Her parting wish?

"Please respect the archaeological resources. It’s fine to look. But leave everything in place. This is so important to not only historians, but to descendants of those who lived in the area. There are many with an intense personal connection to the monument.”

Find out more

Agua Fria National Monument: www.blm.gov/visit/agua-fria.

Black Canyon Heritage Park: www.blackcanyonheritagepark.org.

Friends of Agua Fria National Monument: friendsoftheaguafrianationalmonument.wildapricot.org.