The Complete Guide to Étretat: The Cliffs of Claude Monet
I will never tire of the sea nor the cliffs, knowing that they make me and all my troubles feel so inconsequential
The picturesque seaside town of Étretat (read: eh-truh-taa) is located in the Pays de Caux, a chalk plateau extending toward the English Channel. Its coastline is the Côte d'Albâtre (Alabaster Coast), renowned for its sheer white cliffs rising against the waters.
For a long time, Étretat thrived on its fishing trade and kelp was commonly harvested and burned on the beach for its iodine. By the mid-19th century, sea bathing became a popular pastime for those who could afford it - the town saw an increased arrival of visitors and wealthy merchants who flocked from Paris and England. Villas sprang up as writers and painters romanticised the seaside town until it gradually morphed into the popular resort it remains to be today. WII unfortunately destroyed many waterfront buildings, but some of the elegant countryside villas can still be found further from the beach.
One of the most beautiful coastal towns in France, most hearts skip a beat when they gaze out at the line of majestic cliffs that never seems to end — not unlike how I fell in love with the cliffs of Dover in the UK. There’s something very calming about looking out to nothing but the horizon, almost as if the world stood still.
Most spend the day on the main beach and trek up to the two surrounding cliffs. We spent three days in town, saw terrific sunrises and sunsets, revisited numerous cliffs to catch the light at different times of the day, and even went down to the bays during low tide to nose.
Contents
Getting to Étretat
By Car
The easiest way to get to Étretat is to drive. It’s approximately 3 hours from Paris and 1.5 hours from Rouen, so the seaside destination fits so well into Normandy itineraries. Parking spaces may be difficult to find during peak season, but it’s not impossible to snag a spot right behind the beach with some patience and early arrival.
By Public Transport
While direct train service to Étretat is not available, it is common to take the train to Le Havre's famous port town before transferring to a nearby bus route that takes under an hour. Day trips from Paris are also available, though it would be a stretch to see the cliffs in all their glory without spending at least a night in town.
By Hiking
For the adventurous, the long-distance Grande Randonnée 21 trail runs between Le Havre and Le Tréport for 190 km. It will take you along the Alabaster Coast to town before heading inland.
What to See
"Les Falaises", the Cliffs and Rock Formations
Visible landforms include the cave “trou à l’homme”, la Porte d’Aval, l’Aiguille, la Manneporte and The Courtine
The Alabaster Coast is a stretch of white chalk cliffs 140 km long between the Seine and Somme. The ridges are made of marine organism deposits formed underwater millions of years ago, which then rose as limestone giants up to 90 metres high. The cliffs have moved little in the last centuries as their base was formed of hard Turonian chalk, topped by a stratum of softer Sononian chalk with streaks of flints that have hardened.
Étretat’s cliffs are the most picturesque—and dramatic—of them all; their verticality and scale have made the small town world-famous. Although hard-wearing, the cliffs wage a constant battle against the natural elements: wind, rain, tides, and freezing temperatures cause erosion and the cliffs to retreat. Unusual shapes carved like needles bear witness to how the Normandy coast evolved in the face of nature.
The grassy slopes make for an idyllic spot to look upon the beach
The town of Étretat sprawls in a valley with cliffs rising on either side — one complete with a golf course, the other beautiful gardens. Some of the extraordinary rock formations carved out of chalk and flint are visible directly from town, and all of them come with unique names.
Their austere beauty has been preserved by Impressionist painters on canvas. The painter Eugène Isabey was the first to paint the cliffs of Étretat in the early 19th century, with artists like William Turner, Eugène Boudin, Gustave Courbet, Jena Francis Arbutin and Claude Monet quickly following suit. Monet was said to have based over 50 of his canvases on the cliff arches and stacks and would often paint the same scene repeatedly to illustrate the light variations at different times of the day. View the beautiful exhibition “Monet/Arbutin. An Artistic Encounter”, made virtual and supported by museums around the world.
For a less common but undoubtedly impressive view of the cliffs, visitors may opt to get up close to the sea — the Voiles et Galets d’Étretat Sailing School (Sails and Pebbles) hosts supervised courses below the cliffs for kayak, stand-up paddleboards and windsurfing.
Note: Walking near the edge of the cliffs is perilous as landslides are unpredictable and walking underneath them is forbidden by law.
La Falaise d’Amont, “the upstream cliff”
Can you spot the elephant’s trunk, ears and back?
Aptly named the Alabaster Coast
To the immediate right of the beach is Falaise d’Amont, whose stark whiteness visible from the open sea faraway earned it the name Falaise du Blanc-Trait (White Line Cliff).
The cliffs and main beach in all their glory in the setting sun
In his novel “Une Vie” (A Life), the French writer Guy de Maupassant once described an elephant dipping its trunk into the English Channel. Most believe he was referring to Port d’Amont, the “upstream door”, and it’s easy to see the resemblance — it has the trunk, the ears, and even a palanquin on its back!
Morning walks up to The Falaise d’Amont
The Falaise d’Amont is home to various birds and protected plants that have adapted to the coastal habitat and is one of the largest maritime sites in Normandy. As you approach the beach, you’ll notice that the grassy climb up to the plateau is dotted with figures enjoying the view. The windswept top features several landmarks: Les Jardins d’Étretat, the Monument L’oiseau Blanc and a chapel. Continuing along would allow you to access the arch and a shingle beach on its far side.
La Porte d’Aval, “the downstream door”
On a good day, Étretat’s scenery bursts to life with colours
To the left of the beach is La Porte d’Aval, a colossal flint archway initially formed by an underground river running parallel to the coastline that the sea had continued to carve away at.
Small figures dot the shingle beach below
It owes its reputation to Maurice Leblanc, the prolific French author who lived in Étretat and wrote the novel L’Aiguille Creuse (The Hollow Needle) in the early-20th century. It was told that the hollow needle held a treasure trove hidden inside, which the gentleman thief Arsène Lupin was after. It’s become a literal cliffhanger ever since.
Seeing the sun slowly sink below the horizon behind La Porte d’Aval is one of the most magical sights you could see in Étretat
As you trek across the plains and pass by the golf course, your perspective of La Porte d’Aval and l’Aiguille gradually changes, making for a mesmerising highlight of the trail.
L’Aigulle, “the needle”
L’aiguille’s wave-bitten foot shows when the tide lowers
One of my favourite angles of l’Aiguille looking distinctly sharp on one side
Jutting out of the water 70 metres high, l’Aiguille is a remarkable geological formation. It tapers off towards the top, another testament to its erosion, little by little. Out of all the cliffs, this is my favourite as I love how it stands proud and bright among the crashing waves.
La Manneporte
La Manneporte is the furthest we ventured to among the cliffs
Further down the coast is La Manneporte, a natural arch 50 metres high. It’s so large that Guy de Maupassant (he seems quite taken with the cliffs) once reckoned a ship could have passed through it with its sails unfurled!
Being very windy when we visited la Manneporte, it was scary to even walk down the path to the top of the arch. It doesn’t show in the photo but a misstep on either side of the footpath would send you plunging into the seas below.
At the foot of the arch is a circular room called Le Petit Port (Little Port), its slopes watered green by small springs that cascade down — the “Pisseuss”. The thick slab behind La Manneporte that juts out into the sea is The Courtine.
Roc Vaudieu and L'Aiguille de Belval
The cliffs don’t lose their grandeur on a cloudy day but they are so much more stunning under the sun
To the far right of La Falaise d’Amont lies Roc Vaudieu, a triangular stub amid the waves, and L'Aiguille de Belval, a vertical slab testing the laws of physics. Few venture far enough to the two cliffs, but they can be viewed on a good day from La Falaise d’Amont.
The Beach of Étretat
The shingle beach makes for a popular location for families to visit
The sea dissolves the chalk from cliff falls and polishes the flint into rounded pebbles within several months. Étretat’s pebbles are trapped between the two cliff doors and are amongst the bluntest on the coast. Removing pebbles from the beach is strictly forbidden as they offer protection against swell sand storms by slowing down the waves and reducing the risk of marine submersion in the town built below sea level.
The Perrey boardwalk stretches across the entire length of the main beach
Remnants of capstans used for hauling boats up
The beach is separated from the town by a long boardwalk that runs along its length, named “le perrey” after empierré, a local dialect word for “in stoned”. The town’s humble origins as a fishing village are still evident, as the capstans used for hauling fishing boats up onto the pebbles, the caloges (old boats with a thatched top), and fishermen's huts are still present. Women also came here to wash their clothes and linen at an underground spring before drying them on the pebbles.
Trekking out to near la Porte d’Aval is possible but tricky as the rocks are slippery with algae and kelp
During WWII, German forces built the Atlantic wall — burying 1,500 mines on the beach and littering it with obstacles that made Allied landings impossible. In addition, 19 concrete bunkers were also built between the cliffs. Nowadays, the only vestige of the past is a reconstructed mobile diving platform to the east of the boardwalk that used to be very popular among early generations of bathers.
A old-fashioned mobile diving platform sits close to the foot of the cliffs
The beach is flat but not easy to traverse — feet tend to slip and slide in the shingle. Nevertheless, exploring the respective ends of the beach makes for a fun afternoon, and you can often find gulls, fish and crabs among the rockpools. You have to be fully mindful of the tide times posted on the beach, as many have been caught unaware and stranded between the cliffs, especially around the “trou à l’homme”, a cave near La Porte d’Aval. During the warmer months, Nattera offers nature tours of the beach at low tides.
Beware of the tides whenever visiting the rocks
Gulls frequent the rock pools hunting for food
True to the artists’ love of the town, several artistic and cultural events are available in summer:
Hello Birds — a contemporary music festival that moves through the Alabaster Coast
The Offenbach Festival — a music festival that pays tribute to the composer Jacques Offenbach, who loved the town so much that he built the Villa Orphée after composing “Orpheus in the Underworld”
Arts Day — an outdoor painting challenge bringing together painters from all levels
Kayaking and other water activities are available down the beach
Nungesser et Coli Monument
The L’oiseau Blanc as viewed from the air
In 1927, French WWI pilots Charles Nungesser and François Coli attempted to set records for the first non-stop flight from Paris to New York City on their “L’oiseau Blanc” (The White Bird). Sadly, they never made it across the Atlantic and were last spotted atop the grassy plateau near La Falaise d'Amont. Unfortunately, the original monument built on the spot was destroyed during WWII, after which the current needle-like monument was erected alongside a nearby museum.
While the concrete aeroplane bearing the name "L'oiseau Blanc" may not be much to look at from the ground, it makes for an impressive sprawling sight from the air.
Chapel
The Chapel with the Jardins to the side and the monument in the background
In front of the monument overlooking the sea is the Chapel of Notre Dame de la Garde, rebuilt after WWII and dedicated to sailors and fishermen. The grounds surrounding the Chapel offer unobstructed views of town and cliffs on the other side of the beach.
Les Jardins d'Étretat
The original house of Madame Thébault
Drops of Rain sculptures dot the gardens
In 1905, Madame Thébault, a famous actress of the early-20th century, was inspired by her close friend Claude Money and built a house with a small avant-garde garden. The same garden paved the way for Jardins d’Étretat a century later, now a stunning garden equally matched with a magnificent view overlooking the alabaster coast.
The mollusc-shaped hedges add a whimsical touch
Drawing inspiration from the flora of the Normandy coastline, landscape architect Alexandre Grivko blended fauna with contemporary art to create a beautiful modern addition to the town. The garden is set out in different spaces, and unsurprisingly my favourite is Jardins Émotion — a whimsical slope of plants trimmed to mollusc-shaped formations inspired by Marie Antoinette’s first oyster farm that once sat below the cliffs. Emotive sculptures titled “Drops of Rain” by Samuel Salcedo dot the garden with various moods open for interpretation. It’s impossible to not love them when the sleepy/sulky ones bear a certain resemblance to me!
Love that sleepy pout
Clos Arsène Lupin
Ever thought that Étretat looked a tad familiar? You may have seen it on Netflix — part of their “Lupin” series was filmed on the beach, which bears significance as the creator of the gentleman burglar, Arsène Lupin, lived in the commune. And where better to go on a pilgrimage than his fine 19th-century villa, now the Clos Lupin Museum? Even if you’re not familiar with the amusing character, it’s still great fun to learn about the series and partake in solving your own detective mystery.
Where to Shop
Old Covered Market
It was cold in France when we visited but I could never resist gelato
There’s more to Étretat than its beachfront, as the small town beyond is full of quaint restaurants and shops worth visiting.
The market square is dominated by a timber-frame covered market, with wartime plagues on the building that recounts a British hospital set up during WWI and remembers the soldiers who died there. The building has been renovated and holds stalls selling local products and tourist souvenirs.
The market day takes place on Thursday mornings at the Place du Maréchal Foch, the square just opposite the old covered market. Many locals visit not only to stock up on local produce but also to share a good time together. Depending on the season, everyday local products include apples and a variety of seafood.
Conserverie la belle-iloise
The brand offers many assortment packs for gifting and first-time customers
Conserverie la belle-iloise is a family-owned brand from the fishing port of Quiberon that specialises in gourmet tinned fish. Prices are more expensive than other local brands, but their custom packaging and branding are part of what makes the shopping experience so delightful.
Their tinned sardine came in very much gourmet hot and citrus flavours
French rillettes are so good
While you will find its stores spread across France, it’s particularly fitting to indulge in their products while on a seaside excursion — think picnicking with sardines on the beach or sipping on a rich bisque while looking out onto the waves. We loved their canned soups so much we devoured an entire assorted pack within the week!
Note: If you’re searching for the brand in Hong Kong, a selected range of products is available in city’super, but be prepared to pay a hefty price for them.
What to Eat
La Flottille
During our time in Normandy, we must have ordered mussel pots every other day, if not more frequently
La Flottille is a cosy restaurant in the heart of town offering regional seafood specialities. Its half-timbered structure and slate roof are part of its fishing village charm, and the vibes here are warm and friendly. The main room features a large fireplace for grilling meat and fish and has a small terrace for those who prefer to sit in the sun.
We had our share of moules (mussels), which only cost EUR13.50 (1kg mussel pots typically won’t cost more than EUR15 in Normandy unless you’re in a heavily commercialised area, e.g. Mont-St-Michel or a fancy restaurant).
Along the Beach
To date, this remains one of our favourite photos from the trip :)
The warm afternoon sun illuminating the beach and the French rooftops
The Perrey boardwalk is a touristy area with seafood restaurants and casual bars. But its stunning views of the cliffs and beach are unrivalled, making it a popular pit-stop for families who can take advantage of the open space for children to play.
If you're up for something different, the beach is a pleasant place to picnic (the cliffs are too windy), and you’re bound to find an empty stretch along the two ends closer to the cliffs. Just be careful that your food doesn’t get carried off by gulls.
Where to Stay
Along the Promenade
I don’t think I will ever forget the sunset that made me realise iPhone wallpapers were real
Listening to the (real) waves instead of the ones on my sleep aid playlist can be addictive
Part of why we loved our time in Étretat so much is because we stayed at an apartment overlooking the promenade and beach. As a result, we could peer out to see the boardwalk restaurants below, which meant we also had a stunning view of the cliffs on both sides.
Given the flurry of tourists fighting to visit Étretat, beachside apartments are some of the best-value locations you could stay at. Think holiday home style: no elevators but a fully furnished kitchen to cook to your heart’s content.
I loved it so much that I opted to sleep on the couch so I could fall asleep to the lullaby of the waves crashing against the shore and wake up to the early cry of the gulls.
Les Tilleuls Étretat
Housed in an 18th-century period bourgeois house, Les Tilleuls opened in 2019 and is one of the latest additions to the town.
Despite being further off from the beach, the location is beautifully tranquil and was created by Camille Gersdorff to embody the essence of the French countryside.
Rooms feature vintage decor from different periods, such as toile de Jouy curtains and Devon & Devon style fittings for the bathroom. Ground-level rooms open onto a terrace, blending in beautifully with the outside greenery without feeling too overwhelming.
A pricier option nonetheless, but one that will be well worth the experience.
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