The Complete Guide to Rouen: The City of a Hundred Spires
On the banks of the River Seine lies Rouen (read: roo-on), a port city and vibrant capital of Normandy that is only 1.5 hours away from Paris by train, making it a highly accessible location even by public transport.
During the mediaeval times, much of Rouen’s prosperity was attributed to river traffic on the Seine and the textile and wool industry that flourished with the Renaissance, with the Paschal Lamb on Rouen’s coat of arms a nod to its farming history . The city most notably rose to fame when Joan of Arc was tried—and burned—at the market square.
The city boasts several magnificent Gothic churches and was famously dubbed “the city of a hundred spires” by French writer Victor Hugo. Although badly destroyed during WWII, its historic sites have since been restored. Rouen makes for a beautiful glimpse into mediaeval France with its half-timbered houses and cobbled streets. In addition, it has the second-most listed monuments in France (after Paris), making it an important historical and cultural location.
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Getting to Rouen (from Paris)
By Train
A direct train from Paris takes only one and a half hours and is the best option for those looking for speed and comfort. France’s state-owned railway system, SNCF, operates trains throughout the day from Gare Saint-Lazare to Gare de Rouen. As many French living in Normandy commute to work in Paris, avoid rush hour traffic on weekdays (going in the opposite direction, though, is fine).
A one-way train ticket purchased in advance starts at USD10 but goes up to USD30 as you get closer to your travel date.
By Bus
The bus is even more budget-friendly than the train and only takes slightly more time. But, again, ticket prices range between USD1-10 depending on the proximity to the travel date.
As bus stations in Paris are not as centrally located as Gare Saint-Lazare, confirm if the departing station is correct before purchase.
By Car
Public transport to Rouen from Paris is so affordable and convenient that driving is likely to become more expensive once you factor in traffic, toll, gasoline, and parking costs. Driving will also set you back by half an hour, totalling around two hours from Paris.
However, if you’re already on a road trip around Normandy, going by car may be a more sensible option and give you the freedom to stop in any French towns you drive through.
Most highways in France are toll roads, and you'll get a ticket from a machine when the toll road starts and then pay the corresponding amount when you exit the highway. Unfortunately, credit cards aren't always accepted, so carry euros on you when driving.
By Air
The closest major airports to Rouen are in Paris, so flying isn't an option if you're already in Paris.
What to See and Do
Rouen Cathedral (Cathédrale primatiale Notre-Dame de l'Assomption de Rouen)
The gothic edifice stands in the heart of the old town, its western facade so impressively wide it barely fits into photographs. What began as a replacement for a Romanesque cathedral became a project to be built and rebuilt over 8 centuries, featuring elaborate architectural styles from Gothic to Flamboyant and Renaissance. Its 3 towers were all made in different styles.
Tour Saint-Romain (left) — Part of the original Gothic architecture, its last storey was constructed in Flamboyant style, creating a distinct contrast with the rest of the structure. It contains the bourdon (largest Cathedral bell), named Joan of Arc, as well as the 64 smaller bells of the carillon, the second-largest in France
Tour de Beurre (butter tower) (right) — Constructed in a late Flamboyant style, its popular name came from it being financed by the sale of dispensation for consumption of butter and milk during Lent
Lantern tower (centre) — The tallest of the towers, its flèche (spire) stands over the transept despite having been destroyed by fires and rebuilt repeatedly
Its stunning facade was also the subject of over 30 paintings by Claude Monet, who depicted its splendour in different lights of the day. His canvases, some exhibited in the Musée d’Orsay in Paris, have earned the monument its rightful place as a top location in Rouen.
At 151 metres tall, the cathedral proudly stands as France’s tallest and houses numerous religious relics, including the literal heart of Richard the Lionheart buried in a tomb. Miraculously, it survived the Wars of Religion, the French Revolution and WWII (despite almost being destroyed by Allied bombs on D-day).
The spectacular evening light show was an unexpected highlight of our time in Rouen. Every summer, animation is projected onto the cathedral’s Western facade, telling a story with elaborate audio-visual effects. I was mighty jet-lagged and fell asleep, but everything I remember about it was impressive! Better secure a seat in the shallow steps of the square, as locals and tourists will pour in to watch the show, lining the streets to the next block.
Le Gros Horloge
Translating to “the big clock”, Gros Horloge is an immense, golden astronomical wonder straddling the town’s main shopping street of the same name. It’s a massive sight you cannot miss — we walked up and down the cobbled streets every day. And before anyone gets started on my (lack of) French grammar, yes, modern French clocks are feminine (la horloge), but this has not always been the case as clocks were masculine (le horloge) before the 18th century.
The clock’s movement was built in the 14th century and initially installed in the adjacent belfry with no dial to the clock. After the Renaissance archway was constructed in the 16th century, the clock was moved to it with identical dials built on either side, each spanning 2.5 metres and rich in astronomical symbolism. The watch face represents a golden sun with 24 rays encircled by a blue starry night. An oculus above the dial indicates the phases of the moon. Below the dial, a panel shows the day of the week symbolised by planets and Apollo, the God of the sun. The clock completes a full rotation every 29 days. Its mechanism is one of the oldest in Europe and has been powered by electricity since the 1920s. Astronomical clocks are a wonder of the mediaeval world.
If you look at the archway closely, you’ll also find a crest with a lamb flanked by two angels, one of whose head looks a bit funky—the deliberate work of the workers due to their discontent at the time of construction.
The inside of the building is relatively modest in contrast to its ornate exterior, with exhibits on each storey, including the history of Rouen, the clockmaker’s workshop, bells and weights. The highlight is climbing the belfry tower leading up to the viewing deck. Although only several stories high, it offers an unobstructed panoramic view of Rouen town as surrounding buildings are pretty low-rise.
If you've been following my journeys, you may have realised that one of my travel cravings is to climb anything scalable. Not the sky towers with a lift taking you to the very top (cue expensive and crowded), but the obscure buildings with narrow stairways and sloping decks. The kind where you hang onto the handrail and squish just to get past people going in opposite directions. Where buildings breathe and sigh as you move, the pockmarked walls running smoothly under your fingertips. Where the wind blows against your face (and not a glass panel) as you admire mesmerising views. The tell-tale signs of your heart catching in your throat as you stare down the drop make you feel alive.
While the belfry is precisely this kind of tower, it’s worth noting that some passageways are tiny and do not offer much leeway if there is two-way traffic, so I would recommend visiting right when it opens to avoid crowds. We were out and about early in the morning, so we enjoyed breakfast at PAUL down the street, waiting for doors to open.
Church of St. Joan of Arc (Eglise Sainte Jeanne d'Arc)
Nicknamed “The Maid of Orléans”, Joan of Arc is a legendary tale of a young peasant girl who fought in the Hundred Years’ War. Despite not having had any military training, she gained prominence by achieving swift victories at a young age. Unfortunately, the English put her on trial for heresy, declared her guilty, and sentenced her to be burned at the stake. After her death, she was pronounced innocent, claimed a national symbol of France by Napoleon Bonaparte, and later named a patron saint of France. The French commemorate her in May every year with the Joan of Arc Festival held in Rouen.
The striking, modern structure dominating the centre of the Place du Vieux-Marché was designed by architect Louis Arretche and built in the 1970s. There are several interpretations of the bold and contemporary building, which you will need to circle to view all the contours and multilayers:
Sweeping curves mimic the flames that consumed the square long ago and an overturned longship, the latter of which many early Christian churches resemble
Market halls resemble smaller overturned boats and fish with gaping mouths, also rich Christian symbols
The tiled roof echoes the theme with copper scales, almost Nordic in style, evoking thoughts of the sea
While much less imposing, the church’s interior echoes the overturned ship theme with dramatic wooden beams on the ceiling. The church was mostly closed during its opening hours. It took us a few tries to get in, but only once inside can you marvel at the beautiful stained-glass windows salvaged from the Renaissance Church of St. Vincent that was destroyed in WWII. 13 panels on the glass wall light up to illustrate the life of Christ and several saints, bathing the interior in a soft wash of morning light.
Outside, a small garden to the north denotes a small sign, Le Bûcher (the pyre), marking the exact spot where Joan of Arc was burned at the stake. Under the extended walkway over the square lies a massive wall inscription "Ô Jeanne, sans sépulcre et sans portrait, toi qui savais que le tombeau des héros est le coeur des vivants” (Oh Joan, without a sepulchre and without a portrait, you who knew that the tomb of heroes is in the hearts of the living) and a plague that lovingly reads, “A Jeanne d’Arc, le peuple Francais reconnaissant” (To Joan of Arc, from the grateful French people). Visiting the church felt extra special because Joan of Arc is one of the few books I studied in English literature — it was the morphing of fiction into reality.
There’s a reason why the tale of Saint Joan of Arc has remained preserved in myths for centuries.
The Joan of Arc Historial (Historial Jeanne d’Arc)
For those looking to delve deeper into the incredible story of Joan of Arc, which has been preserved in myths over centuries, the Joan of Arc Historical is an unmissable archive of information.
The museum is set in the Archiepiscopal Palace, the official residence of the Metropolitan Archbishop of Rouen. A digital show plays out with elaborate audiovisual effects and trial testimonies given by actors to reenact the epic life of Joan of Arc. The show is in French, but English headsets are available on-site.
Bonus: Head to the top of the building for an aerial view of Rouen.
Tower of Joan of Arc (Tour Jeanne d'Arc)
A 15-minute walk from the Rouen town centre, this tower was the keep of Philippe Auguste’s 13th-century castle, the only remaining part that had not been dismantled. It was formerly known as the castle’s dungeon (donjon), as it was here where the trial of Joan of Arc took place, and she was threatened with torture.
The large, cylindrical tower offers tours at specific slots and houses an escape game themed under the 15th-century siege of Rouen.
The Abbey of Saint-Ouen (Abbatiale Saint-Ouen)
The abbey was named after Saint Ouen, Rouen’s great bishop, who was buried here in the 7th century. It’s famous for its large and unaltered organ housed in an oak case, one of the largest and finest in France. It’s renowned for its extensive and unaltered organ housed in an oak case, one of the largest and finest in France. It was built by Cavaillé-Coll, a distinguished organ builder of the 19th century who was once described as “a Michelangelo of an organ”.
Built on a scale similar to the nearby Rouen Cathedral, the abbey would have been an impressive cathedral anywhere else in France, but only in Rouen is overshadowed by the Notre Dame Cathedral. Nevertheless, it remains a rare masterpiece built in the Rayonnant Gothic style. The period was characterised by increased light in interiors and elaborate traceries in both windows and stonework (“rayonnant” originated from beaming rays of sunlight streaming through glass windows). In addition, the abbey has one of France's finest collections of 14th-century stained glass windows, featuring jewel tones among panels of clear and frosted white glass. The resulting nave receives better illumination and is brighter than most Gothic churches.
One can admire the abbey’s flying buttresses, central tower and chevet from the neighbouring old abbey gardens, now part of City Hall. The majestic lantern tower, 88 metres tall, follows the Norman tradition of rising above the transept crossing and houses the church bells.
The Church of St. Maclou (Eglise Saint-Maclou)
This Roman Catholic church is considered one of the best examples of France's Flamboyant Gothic architecture style. Rouen Cathedral, the Palais de Justice and the Saint-Ouen form a famous ensemble of significant Gothic buildings in Rouen.
Funded by the wealthy merchant class, the church was constructed during the transition from late Gothic to Renaissance to replace an existing parish church that had suffered neglect.
The famous western facade is towerless but features a rose window atop gabled porches with intricate flying buttresses. Its spire reaches a height of 83 meters. The church interiors are intentionally macabre and designed to evoke emotion, referencing the grim Black Death pandemic (see Aïtre St. Maclou below).
Unfortunately, its exterior stone statues have suffered much from war and pollution, while the interiors were pilfered during the French Revolution, leaving the chapels rather bare. However, its Renaissance outer doors and the organ miraculously escaped destruction from the French Revolution and WWII.
Aître St. Maclou
Behind a doorway just across from the Church of St. Maclou is the aître – a mass cemetery. During the Black Death of 1348, three-quarters of the district’s inhabitants passed away, and their bodies were buried in the new cemetery. Then, 299 years later, the second plague pandemic hit, and bones from the first burials had to be removed to make room for the newly dead.
At first glance, the courtyard may appear like any other half-timbered structure, when it’s anything but. Three galleries surrounding the necropolis were built to serve as an ossuary. Like the Church of St. Maclou, the decor is macabre: skulls and skeletons were carved into the wooden timbers. There’s even a mummified black cat near the entrance.
A fine arts academy used the location until recently. Despite its unusualness and spook factor, it remains a stark reminder of the hardship faced by everyday folk throughout the Middle Ages.
Palais de Justice de Rouen
The ornate Gothic building is the “Palace of Justice”, the former seat of the parliament of Normandy that has remained in use as a court of appeal. It was built in the 16th century on the remains of the Jewish quarter destroyed earlier, with further additions as late as the 19th century.
Although the building sustained heavy damage during WWII air raids, it has since been restored to its glory of spires and gargoyles, which can be admired from far outside its courtyard railings. All that remains as an echo of its history are the pockmarks, bullet and shrapnel scars still visible from Rue Jeanne d’Arc.
Museum of Fine Arts (Musée Des Beaux-Arts)
Rouen’s Museum of Fine Arts houses one of France's most outstanding public collections near the Tower of Joan of Arc. Paintings, sculptures and drawings from every school are featured.
Artists showcased include Perugino, Gerard David, Clouet, Veronese, Rubens, Caravaggio, Velázquez, Vouet, and Poussin, among many others. In addition, a generous donation by François Depeaux in 1909 included paintings by Monet, Sisley, Caillebotte, Pissarro, Degas and Renoir, establishing the museum as home to the second-largest Impressionist collection in France.
The popular comment is that collections heavily focus on religious art, with a room full of Joan of Arc paintings. Nevertheless, one of Monet’s famous canvases of the Rouen Cathedral is on display and should not be missed by art lovers. There’s also a beautiful ceilinged courtyard with colossal paintings and sculptures, where visitors can take a break and snack while enjoying the art.
No audio guides or pamphlets are available, so non-French-speaking visitors may find navigating the museum tricky. But given the sheer variety of the collection and the free entrance to permanent exhibitions, the museum makes a great backup plan for rainy days.
Museum of Le Secq des Tournelles
Devoted to the art of wrought ironwork, the museum stemmed from Jean-Louis-Henri Le Secq Destournelles, a painter who became one of the first photographers in France. When commissioned to photograph French monuments, he discovered ironwork adorning towns and monuments where his appreciation for the metal led him to start a collection:
“Iron can be used to make a greater variety of objects, from the largest to the tiniest, than any other metal. When hot-worked, it is as malleable as modelling clay; when cooled, it is extraordinarily hard and sturdy. Its mastery requires long and intensive training, which often accounts for its extreme perfection. Iron is thus used for both large items – stair rails, strongboxes and prison bars – and personal objects such as jewellery, lighters, tools and sewing accessories. It is particularly useful for keys and locks: devices for protecting both gates and the smallest caskets. And it is also found in pieces by silversmiths, inlaid in gold or tortoiseshell.”
The collection is housed in the 15th-century church of Saint-Laurent (unknowingly saving it from ruin in the 19th century) opposite the Museum of Fine Arts.
With nearly 14,000 pieces, the collection spans both history and geography. Sophisticated works and folk art objects are included, with only traditional weapons excluded as they could already be found elsewhere. In addition, visitors can take their pick of unconventional collections: keys, gates and hinges, door knockers, lighting, ironing and sewing, cutlery and even signs.
Timbered Houses
Wandering around the old town likely means you’ll become lost among mediaeval-looking alleys and cobbled pedestrian streets lined with charming half-timbered buildings looking decidedly unstable, leaning sideways or into the road itself.
Half-timbered houses were made of a wooden framework and infill and built on waterproof stone bases. Some sported richly decorated oak corbelings, a technique developed in the 14th century that enabled upper floors to overhang the ground floor while protecting the facade from rain. Interestingly enough, taxation used to be calculated by the property's footprint, which meant that house owners could minimise tax by using corbeling techniques to save space on the ground while gaining space on upper floors. Eventually, corbeling was banned in the 16th century due to fire hazards that could spread quickly between houses huddled so close together.
Despite its destruction during WWI, Rouen still has about 2,000 half-timbered houses, half of which have been restored, and a tenth listed as historical monuments. The areas around Rue du Gros-Horloge and Place du Vieux Marché would be the best for admiring their romanticism and charm.
Côte Sainte-Catherine
The hillside lookout point to the East of Rouen offers spectacularly unobstructed views of the city and the Seine. Monet himself was known to have painted his panoramas from this exact spot.
The viewpoint is a 30-minute walk from the Rouen Cathedral that goes uphill steeply, but the view makes the journey well worth it. The easier way is to approach from the West, where crude wooden stairs have been fitted into the path. Visitors should wear proper sports shoes that are fit for walking and going uphill.
If you’re driving from Paris, it’s a convenient stop with a free parking lot.
Botanical Garden (Jardin des Plantes)
The botanical garden spans 8 hectares and is open daily without charge. Today, the garden represents over 600 plant species. In addition, it includes a rock garden, a rose garden, an orangery and numerous greenhouses.
Although being located in Saint-Clément, the southern tip of Rouen across the Seine from the old town, means it’s a bit out of the way, its tranquillity makes it a prime spot to picnic and spend time with the family.
The Abbey of Saint-Georges de Boscherville
View of the main structure and abbey gardens from above
Located in the Saint-Martin-de-Boscherville commune, the abbey is a mere half-hour from Rouen, making it an ideal day trip out of town.
The abbey is a former Benedictine abbey founded in the 12th century. Its grounds contain several structures whose architecture typical of the Norman Romanesque style have earned it four listings as a Monument Historique:
Abbey church
Monastic building
Chapter hall
Benedictine abbey
A beautiful trellis tunnel near the abbey entrance
Apples are a hallmark of Normandy
The abbey gardens are located on a slope and the top makes for a magnificent view of the beautiful terrace
Despite all its accolades, our favourite part was undoubtedly the beautiful garden to the back of the buildings. It spans as far as the eye can see and is complete with magnificent terraces and orchards—even a children-friendly maze. Both charming and romantic, it makes for a tranquil reprieve stripped of the crowds and stardom typical of Rouen.
An aerial view of the commune
Where to Shop
Morning Markets
Market stalls on Place du Vieux-Marché in the early morning light
I might be biased, but nothing spells “Bonjour!” better than a lively local market. Crates of plump fruits and lots of conversations in French? It’s the perfect place to learn about local produce, hands-down my favourite type of shopping in Europe.
There were only a handful of stalls, but the variety of produce offered was impressive
A handful of markets are scattered around Rouen, each open on different days and hours of the week. Place du Vieux-Marché is probably the easiest option (even if inauthentic and touristy) as it’s open daily. The square still possesses charm, surrounded by half-timbered houses with market halls adjacent to the Church of St. Joan of Arc. We found the market here most pleasant in the early morning before crowds set in.
Sleepy Rouen before the tourists start flocking in
A fascinating conversation occurred one morning when a local walking his dog saw me taking photos with a face of wonder plastered. Curiously, he asked me where I was from and if I had such markets back home, to which I shook my head. Then, as if trying to find the right words, he paused and exclaimed, “Oh! I feel sorry for you!” before bidding me a good day and continuing with the yappy little fellow. I was laughing so hard while trying not to appear rude. A conversation I won’t forget!
What to Eat
Prélude Café
The crowd at Prélude Café is mostly local
The cafe specialises in assorted bowls for their lunch menus
A corner of Place de la Pucelle
Finding a quaint local cafe near the old town took a lot of work.
Inhabiting a sage green corner on the Place de la Pucelle (the Square of the Maiden), Prélude specialises in beans roasted in Northern Europe and offers what is probably the best coffee in Rouen. Seasonal dishes vary each week, and although menu options were minimal, we took that as a good sign of carefully chosen ingredients. Ours was packed with a variety of foods that were every bit as healthy as it was delicious. Unfortunately, prices were not low, but good coffee is hard to come by in France.
Ma Boulangerie par Christophe Cressent
Me and my favourite brioche au sucre during our daily breakfast runs
An assortment of decadent French pastries and desserts
Christophe Cressent came from a long line of artisan bakers. He opened his bakery using high-quality ingredients—their natural sourdough is made daily from organic, traditional French flour and free-range eggs.
Breakfast is a non-negotiable start to the day when travelling. One of our favourite things is to make a breakfast run to the local bakery when they open their doors, buy several freshly baked goods and eat at the apartment (especially true when it’s bitterly cold outside).
One of Ma Boulangerie’s two branches is located in Place du Vieux-Marché, making it convenient if you stay nearby or just want a treat between sightseeing. I always go for the brioche au sucre or croissants; the simpler, the better, as there’s nothing quite like the sensation of holding steaming pastries wafting an enticing scent into your nose on a cold day.
Tandem
A gastropub down the street from the Church of St-Maclou, the restaurant’s name is a poetic reference to the owners – Fabien in the kitchen and Victoria in the dining room – welcoming guests in tandem.
The restaurant is chic with a beautiful atmosphere, black shopfront and alfresco seating. The menu rotates every two months to present the season’s finest ingredients on fine plating.
The restaurant is popular with locals and tourists, so reserve in advance.
Simone
Also opposite the Church of St-Maclou, with a welcoming green front underneath a cheerful orange half-timbered house. Whilst menu options are short and simple, they come well-prepared and accompanied by an extensive wine list, offering superb value for money.
Alba Restaurant
Yet another popular restaurant on the same street, Alba features a charming nameplate and a shopfront set in deep Prussian blue.
Chef Théophile Gratien studied hospitality and catering before settling in his hometown to embark on his culinary journey. Alba’s short menu features contemporary cuisine inspired by his flavours and memories from travelling worldwide.
Gill
If you’re looking for a gastronomic experience in Rouen, this is your best bet. Sitting slightly inwards from the Seine, Gill offers refined French dining in a stylish space.
Chef Gilles Tournadre's passion boils down to two cuisines: Normandy, where he is from, and Japan, a country he’s visited regularly for over two decades. His subtle yet delightful blend of distinctive flavours has earned the restaurant two Michelin stars.
Gill offers both degustation menus and a la carte dishes, with signature dishes including:
Pigeon roasted “à la Rouennaise” stuffed with duck foie gras, organ meat ravioli
Sweetbread pan-fried with fresh butter, green peas mousseline and bacon
Millefeuille "à la minute" served with Bourbon vanilla
Those interested can also check out Gilles’s other establishments around Rouen:
Gill Côté Bistro: bistro fare on Place du Vieux Marché
Café Hamlet: a restaurant in Aître St Maclou
Les Pâtisseries de Gill: pastries and cakes by Gill
La Cantine Arkose Rouen
La Cantine is the in-house restaurant of Arkose, an indoor rock climbing centre whose name is a nod to the coarse-grained sandstone, perhaps the last place you would expect to find a roaring restaurant.
The industrial premises have been transformed into a hybrid space with a serene view of the riverside, fit for an urban and dynamic crowd, by cleverly incorporating eco-design with creativity and natural light.
The restaurant leans towards 100% homemade French cuisine that is organic, local and traceable – all reasonably priced. The restaurant balances respect for the environment with aesthetic and gastronomic delights by offering vegetarian options, animal products sourced from responsible businesses, and composting bio-waste. Highlights of the drinks menu include organic wines and beers from local breweries.
La Cantine is located down the opposite bank of the Seine and is at least half an hour's walk from the Rouen Cathedral (not to be confused with the other La Cantine near the Abbey of Saint-Ouen. Arkose makes for a vibrant spot to spend an afternoon if you have the time to spare. The bottom line is that you can still enjoy delicious home-cooked food even if you don’t boulder.
Pommes d'Epices
Far from the tourist traps of the more central areas, Pommes d’Epices, a hearty restaurant with rustic wooden decor, lies behind the Tower of Joan of Arc and close to Gare de Rouen, making for a sumptuous first meal after hopping off the train.
The restaurant boasts glowing reviews of its dishes, from appetisers to desserts and its ambience and service. Fresh produce is used in weekly menus, with a good dose of Norman spices. There’s also a vegetarian dish worthy of its name (“spiced apples”).
It’s a small property bustling with locals; do make reservations in advance.
La Marmite
With a quirky name (“the pot”), La Marmite is a restaurant decked out in monochrome interiors with a family charm.
Chef Frédérique Antoine lends a feminine touch to the dishes, while her husband Jean-Luc welcomes guests into the dining room. Entirely self-taught, Frédérique pays great attention to dish presentation as she believes dishes should be equally delicious and beautiful.
La Cornaelle
Can you really say you’ve been to France without enjoying a cosy crepe in the warm afternoon weather?
La Cornaelle has an extensive list of crepes: savoury and sweet, even vegetarian and gluten-free options for special dietary requirements. If you’re feeling decadent, you can wash them down with a bottle of cider or even a scoop of ice cream.
Where to Stay
Within the Old Town
We prefer staying within walking distance of the old town whenever possible, especially in cities like Rouen, where most historic sights are nearby. Having Rouen’s best sights only a stone’s throw away meant we could venture out at sunrise and enjoy wandering around an empty town on our jet-lagged days. It was magical to see the first rays creep over the towers and spires, soft shadows enhancing the Gothic details in all their glory.
Hôtel de Bourgtheroulde, Autograph Collection
Housed in the 15th-century listed historic property, Hôtel de Bourgtheroulde is a luxurious hotel set in the prime location of Rouen centre. Whilst unassuming from the outside, the entrance opens into a beautiful courtyard framed by stonework and spires and offers outdoor seating (you don’t have to stay to visit).
The interiors exude an entirely different vibe from the traditional architecture – glitzy and glam, with loud modern art dotting the red and black interiors. Glass panels on the lobby floor are positioned directly above the indoor swimming pool, allowing natural light to shine through during the day.
Two different room types are offered, traditional and modern. The traditional rooms are furnished with warm wood panelling and are more spacious, but the modern rooms have better bathrooms. There are elevators but be prepared to walk with your bags between buildings.
Radisson Blu Hotel, Rouen Centre
While slightly off the Rouen centre, Radisson Blu is about as close a property you can find to the Gare de Rouen if you plan on travelling by train.
The hotel is modern, clean and bright, with a calming palette of neutrals punctuated by the blue hue of the brand. The junior suites with a terrace offer a remarkable view of the Tower of Joan of Arc next door.
Logis Saint Eloi
The humble property is in a half-timbered house with a slanted roof, accessible through a small doorway next to the Temple Saint-Éloi that can be easily overlooked.
With two duplex apartments offered for choosing, the one at the split level is a better choice as it comes with stylish modern furnishings and higher ceilings for comfort.
However, as with most historic buildings, only stairs are available, so be prepared to lug your bags up narrow and winding steps. In addition, the property is said to not be soundproof from the other apartment or the adjacent beer hall, which can get noisy late into the night.
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