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You know those recipes we hold near and dear to our hearts because they are really the greatest ever of all time? Well, we're using this series as an opportunity to wax poetic about them. Today, Bon Appétit food director Carla Lalli Music gets nostalgic about buttery, salty, cheesy Roquefort crackers—which just may be the Greatest Recipe of All Time.
There are two things to know about Thanksgiving dinner at my parents’ house. The first is that one of my uncles will always be late—real late. This creates an extended period of time during which you’ll be exposed to the little Roquefort crackers my mom puts out during the apertivo hour. This is clearly a good thing, because the cheesy savory snacks are insanely delicious and salty and buttery and perfect with the crisp white wine my dad likes to pour. The downside is that they could easily ruin your dinner. I limit myself to three, then park on the opposite side of the room so I’m not tempted to have another.
I can’t remember a Thanksgiving without them, though I’ve never baked them myself—my mom, Carole Lalli, who had a career as a restaurant critic, food writer, and cookbook editor, makes them appear every year. When I asked her where they came from and how they became a classic, she went way back. Here’s how a recipe becomes a family favorite:
"Since 1985 we’ve had these Roquefort crisps with drinks before Thanksgiving dinner. That was the year I published the wonderful California American Cookbook, one of my first as a cookbook editor at Simon & Shuster. The recipe appealed to me for its rightness for the season and occasion, and for the fact that it involves butter and Roquefort cheese and just enough flour to hold them together. There’s a pinch of cayenne as well, and a sprinkle of poppy seeds. That’s it. I forget about the poppy seeds half the time but it doesn’t matter. The crisps keep well so I’ve gotten into the habit of doubling up; we nibble on them through what’s referred to as Turkey Sandwich Weekend.
My daughters Nina and Carla were five and 13 years old in 1985 and they loved the crisps from the start, but it’s entered my mind from time to time that people might like a change. That was until a few years ago when Carla’s older son, who was then seven, burst into the kitchen just as the crisps were cooling. “Oh, I love these!” he said, grabbing one before his coat was off. Clearly they were already embedded in his memory and firmly linked to the holiday. The crisps stay in the picture."
Here's how to make them, as adapted from the California American Cookbook:
The key to a successful batch of Roquefort crackers is room-temperature ingredients: Both the blue cheese and the butter (yes, we said butter) should be soft and warm—cold dairy won't mix well. For roughly 60 small crackers, you'll need a ¼ pound of butter and a ½ pound of Roquefort cheese.
Use an electric mixer or some good, old-fashioned elbow grease to beat the two together, than add 1 cup of flour and a bit of cayenne, for kick. The original recipe calls for a ¼ teaspoon, but you may adjust to your—and your guests'—liking. Beat until smooth.
Divide the dough into two equally-sized pieces, then shape each one into a log (for 60 crackers, aim for 1½ inches wide) and wrap with wax paper. Refrigerate for at least 12 hours.
When ready to bake, preheat the oven to 400˚ and use a sharp knife to slice off ¼-inch thick rounds from the chilled logs. Place the cookies on a baking sheet, sprinkle with poppy seeds, and bake for 8 minutes, keeping a close eye. Cool completely before eating or storing in an airtight container.