What Are Russian Manicures? What to Know About the Controversial Nail Trend

If you’re tapped into the latest nail news circulating online, you’ve probably already heard the term “Russian manicure” more times than you can count. Originating abroad, the technique has recently become a hot topic online within the nail community, although technically Russian manicures are not new at all. The mani has been a go-to method for years internationally, with fans praising its long-lasting and impeccably pristine results. But even those of us already familiar with Russian manicures, might not have a full understanding of the process (or even downsides) of the technique. To get the full picture of the trending manicure, we spoke to experts, dermatologist Hadley King, cosmetic chemist David Petrillo, and Minx Nails founder Kamola Malikova for their take. Read on for their thoughts on Russian manicures as well as a full explainer on what to expect for your next appointment.

What Are Russian Manicures?

"The Russian manicure, also known as a dry manicure or an electric file manicure, involves using an electric drill bit to file down the cuticles and shape the nails without water," explains Petrillo.

The name "Russian manicure" is believed to come about due to the clean, polished nature of manicures done by Russian nail technicians. The textbook term for the process is called an E-file manicure. According to Malikova, unlike gel manicures or acrylic tips, a Russian manicure is a five to seven-step process that doesn't require any soaking in water.

The Process Behind a Russian Manicure

Unlike traditional nail salons where your hands are soaked in a bowl of warm water to soften dead skin cells followed by push-back tools to clip cuticles, Russian manicures clean up your cuticle by using electric nail bits. "First, we clean the nail bed with one type of drill bit, then the cuticle is removed with a second type of drill bit," Malikova says. "[The] third step is polishing the nail bed and creating the desired shape." 

Once your cuticles are cleaned, polishing is the next step. But, before a nail expert applies your colored polish, a limited edition base coast (strictly used only for Russian manicures) is applied. The base coat applied to your tips entirely depends on the strength of your nails, says Malikova. Then comes the gel polish, which is applied with an artist brush and sealed with a topcoat. 

Though the process of a Russian Manicure sounds similar to that of a gel manicure, there's a core difference—Russian Manicure's technique specifically caters to the individual client's needs, hence why your base coat is selected based on the length and strength of your nail. "We stock a large selection of limited edition nail products, and we customize individual products to match the unique needs of our customers," Maliknova says.

NailmArtUsa explains that quality gel polish is typically used to ensure the best results. "The gel used is quality and is applied in a particular way to help the manicure last over a month if necessary," she says. "The polish is applied close to the cuticle with a thin brush to eliminate that outgrown look. Keep in mind the process is very detailed, which is why it takes between two to three hours for the entire manicure."

Are Russian Manicures Safe?

"While this technique is popular and widely practiced, knowing its potential dangers is important," says Petrillo. The dangers are plenty. In fact, drilling off the cuticle is prohibited in some states due to safety concerns. Additionally, the American Academy of Dermatology recommends avoiding cuticle removal. "Cuticles protect the nail root, so it's important to avoid cutting your cuticles or pushing them back," the AAD recommends. "When you trim or cut your cuticles, it's easier for bacteria and other germs to get inside your body and cause an infection."

Potential Risks

• Skin damage: "The improper use of an electric drill bit can lead to excessive filing or scraping of the cuticles, which may cause skin damage, irritation, or even cuts," explains Petrillo. "The cuticles are a protective barrier against infections, so damaging them can increase the risk of infections."
• Nail damage: "An electric file misused or at high speed can cause thinning or weakening of the nails. This can lead to nail breakage, splitting, or peeling," Petrillo says.
• Pain or discomfort: According to Petrillo, "if the drill bit is applied too aggressively or inappropriately, it can cause pain and discomfort during the manicure. This can be especially concerning for individuals with sensitive skin or nails."
• Increases infection: King says the cuticle is important to overall nail health and losing it means you risk losing that important barrier. "An electric drill bit that's used to file would compromise the cuticle's existing seal, increasing the risk of infection and contributing to moisture loss," says King.
  

What Should You Do if You Want a Russian Manicure?

In order to prevent damage, select a technician with years of practice who has completed several courses on Russian manicures.

According to Malikova, her shop strictly hires from Profi Nails, a nail school specializing in Russian manicures. Still, graduating from Profi is not her only requirement, and her technicians must have a minimum of two to three years of experience and pass an in-house test. "Most of our nail technicians have over five years of experience; they graduated from several nail schools [and] have diplomas and licenses," she says. As always, it's best to do your research when looking for a qualified professional to perform any beauty service—including Russian manicures. 

Are There Any Upsides to Russian Manicures?

Unlike other manicure techniques where length, shape, and design are prioritized, Russian manicures focus strictly on the health of your nails. No acrylics or toxic gel polishes are allowed, Malikova explains. "Acrylic extensions are harmful to your nails and your health, [so] we only offer non-toxic hard gel extensions," she says. "They are durable, long-lasting, and look elegant." According to Malikova, a Russian manicure done right is so long-lasting—in fact—you won't need a touch-up until five weeks after your first appointment.