Review: Parc Natural De La Zona Volcànica De La Garrotxa

Let’s start big picture. What’s the vibe here?
An hour’s drive northwest of Girona will present a word you never thought you’d see in mainland Spain: volcanoes. Garrotxa Volcanic Zone Natural Park actually has 40 of them (no longer active, you’ll be relieved to hear). Volcà del Croscat, the last to erupt, did so (a rather reassuring) 11,000 years ago. The area is still considered seismically active though, with earthquakes in the early 1900s. Scary stuff aside, it makes for a spectacular national park: the ground bursts into giant forested domes and misty valleys, while tiny villages perch perilously on cliff edges. For hikers and cyclists, it’s a dream.

Any standout features or must-sees?
A good starting point is Olot, nicknamed "city of the volcanoes" because it has four within its boundary.

The best vantage point comes from the circular crater atop Montsacopa volcano. Once at Olot Tourist Information Office, start the 35-minute ascent; your legs’ reward will be views of the three other seismic stars. Volcanoes Garrinada and Montolivet are the easiest to spot, Bisaroques somewhat tricker, and signposted trails will take keen hikers to the summit of all of them, except for Garrinada.

Olot is also the best place to cycle back to Girona via the Ruta del Carrilet cycle lane, as most of the 57km route is downhill. To get to Olot with a bike, take the TEISA bus from Girona (or even Barcelona), provided your bike is clean and they have space, they will load it. The cycle paths are in excellent condition and extremely well signposted with distance updates, should you get distracted by meadows, waterfalls and, let’s be honest, village cafés serving beer.

Was it easy to get around?
Pretty easy—aided by backup online and in tourist centers, where staff are especially helpful in suggesting itineraries to combine sights.

All said and done, what—and who—is this best for?
The most luxurious way to see the valley in its entirety is by hot air balloon. From Santa Pau, tour company Vol de Coloms offers 60 to 90 minute morning flights with cava, cake, and a full Catalan breakfast when back on solid ground from €75pp. On a clear day, you can see the Mediterranean, the Pyrenees and the dormant domes below.