Review: Ever

What were your first impressions when you arrived?

Step into this West Loop destination and feel instantly cocooned in a space that breathes equal parts high-octane creativity and relaxed energy, complete with wood structures, plush wool carpet, and leather chairs. Arrive there via the restaurant’s long, curved entrance hallway, comprised of stone flooring and cave-like walls—all inspired by a trek within Utah’s Antelope Canyon. The dining room itself (a velvety, almost ethereal space) holds 14 tables, and if you’re seeking intimate conversations, sound won’t be an issue—custom-made felt baffles on the ceiling help to give diners the sensation of sitting inside noise-canceling headphones. Even so, audio plays a significant role in the experience here, from instrumental pop covers from the just-right speakers, to Matthew McConaughey’s Greenlights narration within each of the three bespoke (and gorgeously outfitted) bathrooms.

What’s the crowd like?

Date nights are it here, but also expect to see business outings, culinary-savvy travelers, and groups of friends (including the well-dressed double date).

What should we be drinking?

The wine program revolves around the culinary menu, with selections meant to complement the nuances of each dish. A wine list is comprised of Old World selections from Champagne, Alsace, the Loire, Germany, and the Rhone Valley, along with New World options, such as Peay Pinot Noir or Red Car Syrah.

Main event: the food. Give us the lowdown—especially what not to miss.

After earning three Michelin stars for four consecutive years at his former restaurant Grace, chef Curtis Duffy is back with Ever, where he highlights seasonal ingredients through progressive techniques in the form of one constantly evolving tasting menu. Guests encounter that culinary prowess through eight to 10 courses, each of which spotlights a variety of proteins and of-the-moment produce—case in point with a plate brimming with curls of frozen hamachi that transforms in just minutes of thaw time, enhanced by accompaniments like crispy shallots, Thai vinaigrette, and basil. And then, of course, there’s Duffy’s signature dish: Curled and thinly sliced hamachi frozen in liquid nitrogen with black rice pudding, crispy shallots, lime, and mint. Following your dinner, head next door to After, the team’s new cocktail lounge. Its mirrored bar, which reflects deep blue hues, is as mesmerizing as the drinks themselves.

And how did the front-of-house folks treat you?

The team here adheres to a philosophy that food, wine, service, and ambiance all rank equally supreme. As such, anticipate an experience that fires on all cylinders, with on-point hospitality being just one aspect of the evening.

What’s the real-real on why we’re coming here?

For this kind of culinary excellence, consider the venue for that next special occasion, be it an anniversary, birthday, or Thursday night (if that’s how you roll).