Review: Circolo Popolare

What were your first impressions when you arrived?

Fun is the name of the game at all of the Big Mamma restaurants, and it’s no different at this Fitzrovia favorite. This second of the five London outposts is the most dramatic, with high wall arches filled with illuminated bottles and ceilings draped in flowering foliage and twinkling festoon lights. Tables are packed in tight and the crowd are always merry and ready for a party. If you want something slightly out of the main fray, ask for one of the four-seater booths off to the side but even from there, the energy is infectious.

What’s the crowd like?

It’s silly, over the top, and fabulous, and so are the diners. They dress up, drink up, speak up—people are here for a good time, even on a weeknight.

What should we be drinking?

It’s all about the fun cocktails here. Kick off with an Emilian Crush, a sweet-sour riff on a Negroni with strawberry-infused Campari, a drop of balsamic vinegar served with a parmesan wafer. Or opt for a virgin cocktail served in a silly kitsch container—the jug for the Raspberry Shrub is a tad rude so an ideal ice-breaker for an awkward first date. End on a shot of limoncello, of course.

Main event: the food. Give us the lowdown—especially what not to miss.

One glance at the menu and you instantly get the idea: all the beloved Italian classics are here, although many given the Big Mamma twist. Start with a Boom Boom Burrata, The Olive Trinity, and maybe an Empanada Strikes Back (see what they did there?!), before moving on to pasta, i.e. the real reason to come. Flavors are big, as are portions. La Gran Carbonara is a winner, but go for mafalda with black Molise truffle and a mascarpone cream sauce if you want something richer. Pizzas are pretty good too, with a few simple combinations done well. But stop before you’re full to save space for the much-photographed lofty lemon pie with its ludicrous 5-inch meringue layer. Tastes as good as it looks.

And how did the front-of-house folks treat you?

The serving staff handle the packed tables and lively atmosphere with ease and panache; there’s plenty of Italian waiters on hand to animatedly explain the dishes and you won’t have an empty glass for long.

What’s the real-real on why we’re coming here?

There are plenty of places in London where you can have tasty pasta and pizza, but diners flock here for the opulent decor and fun atmosphere as much as the food. It’s like it was created especially for celebrations.