Review: El Rastro

What's the story here?Every Sunday morning since 1740, the sloping Ribera de Curtidores overflows with street vendors hawking everything from old watches to fake Nikes to hand-sewn leather bags and Franco-era paraphernalia. Welcome to El Rastro, one of Europe's most legendary—and most chaotic—flea markets. There are plenty of hidden gems to be found, provided you're willing to haggle like a pro and throw a few elbows.

What can we find here?There are some 3,000 open-air stalls, so trying to hit them all is a truly Sisyphean task. Start out from the Plaza de Cascorro, where locals gather for mid-morning vermouths and no-frills tapas; around the square you'll find T-shirt and handbag vendors. Follow the herd downhill, veering right at the fork to explore the antiques stalls on the Plaza del General Vara del Rey. Pop into Bar Santurce for a glass of sherry and a few spit-roasted sardines before looping back over to Ribera de Curtidores and meandering down to the finish line, Ronda de Toledo.

If money’s no object, what goes in the cart?Keep an eye out for centuries-old religious relics, like rosaries, cherubs, and hand-painted idols that you won't find anywhere else, as well as iconic designer chairs by Marcel Breuer, Panton, or van der Rohe. Shipping can always be arranged—at a price.

What if we’re on a strict budget?A flowy, wildly patterned shirt from the bargain bin at one of the vintage clothing stalls.

Who else shops here?The Rastro is the city's ultimate socioeconomic unifier, bringing shoppers together from every culture, barrio, and income bracket.

Any must-buys that we aren't thinking of?The food. The aperitivo—mid-morning snack accompanied by booze—is a quintessential part of the Rastro experience, so pepper your bargain-sleuthing with boozy pit stops. Remember: The fuller the bar, the better the food.