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The understated Moroccan capital of Rabat, with its gorgeous coastal Atlantic setting, is strangely overlooked by many travelers. While it may not have the irresistible energy of Marrakech, the dizzying labyrinthine lanes of Fez, or the dreamy romanticism of Tangier, it boasts a 12th-century kasbah overlooking the sea, expanses of green and palm-lined avenues, and a well-priced, hassle-free Medina where browsing is a true joy.
And while it may be a laid-back kind of place, that’s not to say that Rabat is a snooze. A new Four Seasons hotel is set to open this spring, housed in a former royal residence that later became a military hospital, and a new Ritz-Carlton hotel is also on the way, surrounded by 440 acres of oak forests on the outskirts of the city.
The long-awaited Grand Theatre of Rabat, designed by Zaha Hadid, and the 250-meter Mohammed VI Tower, combining residences, offices and a hotel, are slated to open their doors at some point soon, although no one seems able to confirm exactly when. From the outside they both look well on the way to being finished, the former towering rocket-like above an expanse of grassland on the Salé side of the Bou Regreg River, and the latter, including an 1,800-seat theater and 7,000 capacity open-air amphitheater, sitting on the Rabat side.
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Things to do in Rabat
Two of Rabat’s most significant historical sites, the 12th century Hassan Tower and Mohammed V Mausoleum, sit next to each other at one of the highest points of the city. The never-completed tower was intended to be the tallest minaret in the world. Even at a modest 44 meters it’s still an imposing sight. The adjacent white marble mausoleum, with red-uniformed royal guards on each of the four entrances, contains the tombs of the Moroccan king Mohammed V and his two sons. It’s a popular spot for school trips and cruise groups, but don’t let the crowds deter you from going inside and gazing at the dazzling gilded ceiling and zellij-covered walls.
Perched above the sea and the river, the Kasbah des Oudayas, entered through imposing stone arches, is Rabat’s historic citadel, a small neighborhood of narrow winding alleys, private homes and guesthouses, along with eye-popping views of the Atlantic and the neighboring town of Salé. Don’t miss the peaceful palm-filled Andalusian Gardens on the edge of the Kasbah, filled with palms, bougainvillea and orange trees.
This year sees the return of the much-loved Mawazine Rythmes du Monde music festival after a three-year hiatus. Taking place from June 21 to 29, Mawazine is in the running to be one of the most democratic music festivals in the world, with free entry to 90% of the events held across six stages in Rabat and Salé. This year’s line-up is yet to be released, but previous years have featured big names like David Guetta, Rihanna and Maluma, along with a rich program of performances from across Morocco, the Arab world and Africa.
Located in the 19th century Borj El Kebir fort on the edge of the Atlantic, the dramatic venue is as much a draw as the exhibitions within. The museum’s focus is on Moroccan photographers, and it’s a great place to get a glimpse of contemporary culture through the eyes of the country’s next generation of artistic talent.
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Rabat’s museum of modern and contemporary art marks its tenth anniversary this year. The permanent collection features works by more than 200 Moroccan artists, including photographer Hassan Hajjaj, known for his pop-art portraits, and the late Mohamed Melehi, famed for his brightly colored paintings and murals.
Where to eat
Hidden inside the kasbah, the Café des Oudayas (also sometimes referred to as Café Maure) is a joy to stumble upon. Perched on the edge of the citadel with views over the neighboring town of Salé and the river below, it’s a place loved by Rabat residents, visitors and sleepy cats alike. Order a Moroccan mint tea and wait for the tray of sweets to be brought around. The gazelle horns, crescent-shaped cookies filled with almond paste and orange blossom water, are particularly good.
Tucked away in the Medina behind a bright yellow wooden door is the cozy, casual Dar Zaki. From the crispy seafood pastillas to classic couscous and fragrant tagines, this is the place to fill up on traditional Moroccan dishes. The presentation is simple, but the flavors are deliciously complex. Also inside the Medina, at the top of a narrow alley that leads down to the river, are a handful of food stalls selling sandwiches stuffed with fried fish, spicy harissa, tomato and eggplant. You can’t really go wrong with any of them, but look for the one with the longest line of locals.
Located at the Royal Golf Dar Es Salam, a half-hour drive out of the city past handsome tree-lined neighborhoods of embassies and elegant villas, Le Clubhouse Robuchon’s setting on the edge of the greens is quite idyllic. Whether you’re a golfer or not, the tall palms and birds of paradise plants offer a beautifully bucolic setting for a long, lazy lunch. The menu meanders through salads, sandwiches and quiches as well as some French classics, but the Joël Robuchon beef burger is also a hit, served with seriously good French fries.
Le Dhow labels itself a “restaurant-bar-lounge”, which sums up why it’s such a favorite with visitors and locals. Inspired by traditional Arabian sailing dhows, the boat is docked on the Bou Regreg River, with views out to the ocean, up to the Kasbah, and across to Salé. Come by day for a relaxed lunch in the sun, in the evening for drinks accompanied by dramatic Atlantic sunsets and live music, and late night for DJs and dancing on the deck.
Located a half-hour drive south of the city in the Conrad Rabat Arzana, you’d be hard pressed to dine closer to the Atlantic Ocean than here, the waves booming and crashing onto the shoreline below. The menu of Mapas (Moroccan tapas), like squid with smoked paprika and crispy shrimps with onion fritters and Espelette pepper, is short but tasty, and there’s a good selection of Moroccan wines to pair with them.
A lovely French spot set in a 1930s-era house close to the Art Deco St Peter’s cathedral in the center of the city, Ty Potes is the place for savory galettes, sweet crêpes, charcuterie and cheese, and—perhaps on a cool evening—Savoyard fondue. Come early to grab a table in the leafy garden and don’t miss the oysters from Dakhla in Morocco’s far southwest, perfect when paired with an easy-drinking selection of Moroccan and French wines.
Where to stay in Rabat
Perched right above the pounding waves of the Atlantic, the Conrad Rabat Arzana is a 25-minute drive from the city center, but there’s nowhere better to feel the power of the ocean. The pools are the perfect place to decompress at the end of a Moroccan adventure, the hammam treatments in the spa leave you blissfully relaxed and cleaner than you’ve ever been, and the sunsets over the ocean are absolutely breathtaking.
Housed in the former residence of the Pacha of Rabat, the eight-room Euphoriad offers a calming stay at the entrance to the Medina. Intricate carved plaster and wood details in the communal areas contrast with the more minimalist guestrooms, and there’s a marble hammam for black soap scrubs and argan oil massages. But the pièce de resistance is the rooftop pool and sun terrace, with far-reaching views over the city.
A recent luxury arrival in Rabat’s sister town of Salé, the elegant Fairmont La Marina perches on the banks of the Bou Regreg River where little wooden rowboats wait to take passengers across to the capital. Rooms in this low-rise, light-filled hotel feature contemporary nods to Moroccan craft heritage, and the views of Rabat’s Kasbah and the Atlantic from rooftop bar Le Deck at sunset are some of the best in town.
This family-run riad on a quiet lane lined with food stalls, flag-making workshops and tailors offers a warm, friendly welcome. The hotel is made up of two parts—Zyo and Ozy. The original, Riad Zyo, offers a contemporary stay with bright white walls, a small but perfectly formed pool, and regularly changing displays of local art. In contrast, the newer addition, Ozy, is much more traditional, with plaster carvings, zellij mosaics, and handsome wooden doors. They’re both lovely, and you won’t go wrong opting for either. Both are connected, and have access to a rooftop that tumbles over multiple levels of the two buildings. At sunset, it’s a convivial spot with guests gathering for cold drinks and lively conversation.