The best things to do in Split, Croatia's lesser-known coastal city
Croatia’s second largest city is an alluring place. Facing the twinkling Adriatic, and with a dramatic mountain backdrop, its setting is stunning. City life still focuses on the remarkable and extensive Roman remains of Diocletian’s Palace. A UNESCO World Heritage Site, the walled complex was built as an imperial palace and military fortress for the emperor at the turn of the fourth century AD. Spend a day following ancient footsteps – starting from the Peristil (the colonnaded open courtyard) and cathedral, and wander through the ancient maze of narrow streets and little squares. (Near the Peristil is the oval, open-roofed Vestibul, where traditional klapa singing groups making use of the fine acoustics.) Shops, restaurants, churches, houses: everyday life is built into the very fabric of the ancient walls. Perhaps unsurprisingly, they caught the eye of the makers of Game of Thrones, and walking tours of the locations featured in the hit series are easily found.
Split has always been a nautical hub. Its large marina is the casting-off point for island-hopping yachts. Ferries serve the Dalmatian islands and connect Split to Dubrovnik in the south, and there are overnight sailings across to Ancona in Italy.
THINGS TO DO IN SPLIT
HEAD TO THE BEACH
There are several good beaches in and around Split. The closest (and busiest) is Bačvice, a sandy beach where local Spličani come to swim and play the traditional ball game picigin.
CANYONING ON THE CETINA RIVER
Helmets on for a fully immersive adventure; canyoning in the crystalline waters of the Cetina River. It’s a fun and relatively unchallenging way to spend a few hours, as you swim, scramble and bob your way past the waterfalls and rapids. Adventure companies such as splitadventure.com run fully equipped tours. It's about 50km (a 45-min drive) from Split to the jumping-in point.
VISIT THE PALACE
You can’t miss Ivan Meštrovic’s gigantic statue of Grgur Ninski – a medieval Croatian bishop – outside the palace’s Golden Gate. Touch his toe for good luck. And search for the Figa i Pirija fountain on Marmontova Street; an arc of water spurts from a clenched hand high up a wall, into a metal funnel.
TAKE IN THE VIEWS
For great city panoramics, take a stroll through the hillside pines of Marjan Forest Park, which hides several small churches and a hermitage built into the rock face. Reward your efforts with a sundowner at the Teraca Vidilica café bar.
THE BEST MARKETS IN SPLIT
At the Pazar Green Market, just outside the eastern Silver Gate, black-stockinged ladies weigh out stacks of seasonal fruit and home-grown vegetables. Look out for strings of threaded dried figs and jars of home-produced honey. In late October, the place is a riot of carnations for All Saints’ Day on 1 November. For the lively ribarnica fish market, make an early start to see the stone slabs fully piled with glistening tuna, squid and little anchovies.
FROGGYLAND
Curio-lovers will adore Split’s most eccentric attraction: a small museum of anthropomorphic amphibians. The collection dates back to 1910, with hundreds of stuffed frogs in meticulously detailed scenes from human life - playing tennis, at the dentist, being drunk – their glassy eyes staring out from the display cases. It’s all the legacy of a Hungarian master taxidermist called Ferenc Mere. froggyland.net
THE BEST RESTAURANTS IN SPLIT
Split’s food scene has boomed over the last few years, with some serious ambition and greater diversity coming from the city’s restaurants. Some smart options are Zrno Soli (‘Grain of Salt’), for imaginative dishes with great views over the marina; the newly opened Zoi, which gives a modern twist to local ingredients; and long-term favourite Kadena, which has island views from its chic terrace. All three have recently received their first Michelin-guide listing.
Zrno Soli, Uvala baluni 8 (ACI Marina Split); +385 21 399 333
Zoi, Obala Hrvatskog Narodnog Preporoda 23 (Riva, South Gate); +385 21 637 491; zoi.hr
Kadena, Ul. Ivana pl. Zajca 4; +385 21 389 400; restorankadena.com
UJE OIL BAR
Tables spill outside from this stylishly rustic restaurant on a quiet corner inside the palace. Expertly sourced regional olive oils and seasonal Dalmatian ingredients are the highlights here, with dishes of inky cuttlefish, prawn and sea fennel, ice cream with olive oil, and generous charcuterie and cheese boards. The guided olive-oil tastings are fun.
Address: Uje Oil Bar, Dominisova ul 6
Telephone: +385 95 200 8008
Website: oilbar.hr
BOKERIA KITCHEN AND WINE BAR
A handsome, airy space (a former hardware store) in the old palace, serving satisfying Mediterranean flavours with a Dalmatian essence, such as beef carpaccio with salty cheese, smoked mussel risotto, and pillowy bombolini. This place fills up fast. There's also a handful of stylish bedrooms upstairs, known as the Abokamento.
Address: Bokeria Kitchen and Wine Bar, Domaldova ul. 8
Telephone: +385 21 355 577
DVOR
Head to the romantic garden terrace of this café-restaurant for sweeping sea views over Bacvice beach. This serves accomplished meat and fish dishes - lots from the grill - and a strong wine list. A 20-minute walk from the Riva, this stretch of coast has some great bars and gets really animated in the summer.
Address: Dvor Restaurant , Put Firula 14
Address: +385 21 571 513
**Email:**dvor.reservation@gmail.com
KONOBA FETIVI
Close to the waterfront and a great example of a konoba, the traditional family-run tavern that can be found all over Croatia. Expect spanking-fresh fish and hearty meat dishes served simply, with a notable apple strudel.
Address: Konoba Fetivi, Ulica Tomica Stine 4
Telephone:+385 21 355 152
THE BEST BARS IN SPLIT
Any of the café bars along the palm-edged, waterfront Riva promenade will do for a people-watching pit-stop or to perfect the Croatian art of ‘fjaka’, a concept which roughly translates as ‘the sweetness of doing nothing’. At night, buzzy little bars spring to life in the old palace alleyways, with cushions strewn on millennia-old steps to lounge on. The Academia Ghetto Club - one of a run of bars along the Dosud – is good for a taste of local bohemian flavour.
PARADOX WINE & CHEESE BAR
A few metres from the Riva, this inviting spot has a lovely terrace and probably the most interesting wine list in Split, showcasing the excellence and diversity of Dalmatian labels. Discover indigenous grape varieties such as Plavac Mali and Pošip alongside plates of local Pag cheese and pršut (prosciutto).
Address: Paradox Wine and Cheese Bar, Ulica Bana Josipa Jelačića 3
Telephone: +385 21 787 778
Website: paradox.hr
MARVLVS LIBRARY JAZZ BAR
Thought to be the birthplace of Renaissance poet Marko Marulić, this atmospheric wood-beamed bar has suitably cultural leanings, with shelves of books to peruse and a seriously well-informed playlist to occupy you as you sip. It hosts frequent readings and live music.
Address: Marvlvs Library Jazz Bar, Papalićeva ul 4
Telephone: +385 98 963 7067
Website: facebook.com/marvlvs
WHERE TO STAY
RESIDENCE BY VESTIBUL PALACE
The Vestibul Palace has recently opened a gated apartment-hotel with a small number of self-catering apartments, with access to a spa and concierge service. Low-key luxury, handily placed around 10 minutes’ walk from Diocletian’s Palace.
Address: Residence by Vestibul Palace, Istarska ul 25
Telephone:+ 385 21 585 580
Website: residence.vestibulpalace.com
HERITAGE HOTEL ANTIQUE SPLIT
One of only a few hotels set inside the palace complex, this small family-run place is right at the centre, just a few steps from the Peristil. Interiors combine exposed stone walls with plush antique styling and modern trimmings.
Address: Heritage Hotel Antique Split, Poljana Grgura Ninskog 1
Telephone: +385 21 785 208
Website: antique-split.com
JUDITA PALACE HOTEL
A pretty courtyard and elegant furniture give this ‘palace within the palace’ bags of character. Expect exceptional service and super-comfy rooms. It's set right on Split's large inner square, Narodni trg.
Address: Judita Palace Hotel, Narodni trg 4
Telephone: +385 21 420 220
Website: juditapalace.com
HOTEL LE MERIDIEN LAV
This is a great option for making the most of the Adriatic location, but is only a 20-minute drive away from the old city. Airy, light and modern, with stunning panoramic views, an 800-metre private beach and marina, with the comfort levels you’d expect from this group.
Address: Hotel Meridien Lav Grljevacka, 2A Podstrana
Telephone: +385 21 500500
Website: lemeridienlavsplit.com
Things to do outside Split
TROGIR
It would be a shame not to include this tiny city – another UNESCO World Heritage Site - when visiting Split. Set on an island, within medieval walls, its higgledy streets are home to some interesting boutiques and courtyard cafés. Its cathedral has some of the finest carvings in Croatia, including an exquisite Romanesque portal, teeming with biblical life. Climb the steps up to the bell-tower for wonderful rooftop views.
WHERE TO EAT IN TROGIR
Konoba Trs is just off the cathedral square. Settle into the vine-canopied courtyard of this rustic tavern for dishes that make imaginative use of local ingredients, such as boar with gnocchi, panko octopus and satisfying homemade pastas.
Address: Konoba Trs, Matije Gupca 14, Trogir
Telephoen: +385 21 796 956
Website: konoba-trs.com
ROMAN RUINS OF SALONA NEAR SOLIN
Fulfil any Gladiator re-enactment urges in the amphitheatre of these extensive Roman ruins of Salona near Solin, a suburb 10km outside Split. With a mountainside backdrop, it makes for an atmospheric stroll around the temples and necropolis of this relatively under-visited site. From there, continue up the mountain to visit the medieval fortress of Klis.
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