Vacherin Mont-d'Or - Switzerland's Prized Winter Cheese

High in the alps of Vaud, Switzerland, giant cows graze serenely in the warm sun. For most of

the year the milk they produce will be turned into the famous Le Gruyère d’Alpage AOP. As

autumn approaches the characteristics of their milk change, making it unsuitable for giant

wheels of alpine cheese. A new opportunity arises, however. The smaller amounts of richer,

fattier milk are perfect for making one of the country’s most cherished seasonal cheeses,

Vacherin Mont-d’Or.

While Vacherin Mont-d’Or has been hand-made in the Vallée de Joux for more than a century,

the exact origin of the recipe isn’t clear. Local legend suggests it was brought to the area by a

French solider in 1871, during the Franco-Prussian war. This legend seems particularly

reasonable because the nearby French Jura region produces a similar large-format cheese

called Vacherin du Haut-Doubs, and smaller wheels that are simply called Mont d’Or. Ultimately,

evidence later showed the Swiss production dates as far back as 1812.

The seasonality of making Vacherin Mont-d’Or is a reflection of the changes in a cow’s milk

during the year. Herds spend the warmer spring and summer months at higher altitudes,

feeding on alpine pastures. Because this coincides with their birthing cycle, they naturally

produce much higher amounts of milk for feeding their offspring during this time.

As autumn approaches the cows stop having calves, reducing the need for milk. The animals

continue to produce it, but in smaller amounts. This milk is significantly richer and fattier, making

it difficult to use for Le Gruyère d’Alpage AOP production. Historically, alpine farmers would use

this late-lactation milk to create much smaller wheels generically called vacherins, a name

derived from the French word for cow, vache.

Although modern breeding practices have resulted in animals who lactate for more of the year

with much higher yields of milk, Swiss dairy laws impose strict guidelines on how Vacherin

Mont-d’Or can be made. These requirements, based on the original recipe and techniques, earn

the cheese Switzerland’s esteemed appellation d’origine protégée (AOP) status, a guarantee of

quality and authenticity.

One of the most important requirements is when the cheese can be made. Vacherin Mont-d’Or

can only be produced from August 15th through March 31st. Cows are selected for milking a

month ahead of the start date. During that month the animals can’t eat fermented grasses,

called silage. They also must avoid the organic compound urea, found in foods such as

cabbage and turnips, as it can adversely affect the smell and taste of the milk.

When its time to make Vacherin Mont-d’Or, the milk must be collected twice a day from farms

located within 15.5 miles (25km) of where the cheese will be made. The milk will be thermized,

a technique of using low heat to sanitize the milk, preserving it’s natural qualities. This process

is gentler than pasteurization, which is not allowed. The treated milk is then stored overnight to

allow it to settle. Within 24 hours of collection, rennet is added and the curds formed.

When the curds are ready, they are ladeled into molds to create one of three allowed wheel

sizes: Petite, Moyen, and Grand. The finished wheels range in weight from one pound for the

Petite, to nearly three pounds for the Moyen, to seven pounds for the Grand. As the wheels firm

they are banded with a strip of spruce wood harvested from trees in the area, which helps the

wheel maintain its shape and adds the subtle, woody flavor that Vacherin Mont-d’Or is known

for.

The ripening of the finished wheels takes place on spruce planks for a minimum of 17 days.

During this time the temperature is controlled, and will vary depending on what stage of

development the cheese is at. For the first week, the temperature cannot go below 48°F (9°C).

Afterward, the temperatures can range from 42°F to 60°F (6°C to 16°C). During the entire

ripening period, the relative humidity must be at least 85%. Unlike many other Swiss cheeses,

the ripening caves for Vacherin Mont-d’Or can be used to age other cheeses once productions

is finished for the season.

Wheels ready for sale are required to be packaged in circular boxes also made from spruce

wood, and wrapped in breathable cellophane. Swiss AOP laws require the wheels to be

displayed and marketed without a lid, allowing the consumer to view the cheese through the

wrap. Vacherin Mont-d’Or is the only Swiss cheese to have the packaging be considered part of

the cheese itself, even factoring into the total weight for pricing. The selling window is limited to

only September through April.

Ripe wheels of Vacherin Mont-d’Or are a treat for all the senses. The rippled, textured surface

turns from amber-yellow to a deeper, reddish color as it matures. The rind is easily removed,

exposing the custardy, supple interior. Heady aromas of wood and bacon mix with funky cream

notes and hints of garlic and hay. The flavor is slightly salty and milky, with a soft and silky

mouthfeel.

Traditionally, Vacherin Mont-d’Or is served in its spruce packaging. The top rind is removed, the

interior is scooped out with a spoon and served with crusty bread, cornichons, and charcuterie.

A popular version of this calls for removing the plastic wrap from the container, and baking it

until the interior of the cheese is gooey and flowing, serving it as you would fondue.

Originally written for Cheeseprofessor.com, January, 2022.