Vitamin C Serums 101: Best Products, Benefits, Side Effects, and More

vitamin C syrum
Citrus contains disease-fighting vitamin C. Do serums infused with this nutrient offer benefits, too?Adobe Stock

You reach for vitamin C when you feel a cold coming on, but did you know it can also deliver a smooth, glowing complexion? In recent years, vitamin C has become a holy-grail item for the skin-obsessed.

“Vitamin C is a hot topic, and it is buzzworthy, because it has so many preventive and maintenance benefits,” says Nazanin Saedi, MD, a board-certified dermatologist and a clinical associate professor at Thomas Jefferson University in Philadelphia.

Here, we dive into everything you need to know about vitamin C serums, including why to use one, how to apply it, and what to watch out for.

What Is a Vitamin C Serum Exactly, and What’s in It?

A vitamin C serum is a skin-care product packed with vitamin C. It has the consistency of a liquid or gel, and is applied topically to the skin. You’ll find these serums wherever you normally purchase skin-care products — at department stores, beauty stores, and some drugstores, too. On the packaging, you’ll likely see words touting skin benefits like “firming,” “brightening,” and “collagen boosting.” People add vitamin C serum to their skin-care routines to tap into those benefits.

“The benefit of vitamin C is it’s an antioxidant, so it helps prevent the forming of free radicals, which go on to break down collagen and elastin,” Dr. Saedi says. The result, she says, is glowing, youthful skin.

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What’s the Research Behind Vitamin C and Vitamin C Serums?

Nutritionally speaking, vitamin C is hugely important. It’s essential for growth and development, playing a role in forming and repairing body tissue, and it provides antioxidants that fight the free radicals that contribute to diseases like cancer, heart disease, and arthritis.

All fruits and vegetables contain some vitamin C, but you’ll source the most from produce like cantaloupes, oranges, broccoli, and Brussels sprouts.

Vitamin C is naturally present in the skin, where it boosts collagen production and antioxidant levels. It may protect the skin against damage from UV light rays (especially when used alongside vitamin E).

Vitamin C also maintains the skin’s barrier, which keeps irritants out of your skin, and aids in water retention for proper skin hydration.

Great, right? By now you may be thinking about how to increase vitamin C in your diet to reap these benefits. Unfortunately, simply eating more oranges and cantaloupe isn’t going to cut it. That’s because the epidermis, the outermost layer of the skin, doesn’t have blood vessels to send nutrients to the skin cells, research notes.

Vitamin C can, however, be applied topically — and that’s where vitamin C serums come in. “Vitamin C is best known for its ability to neutralize free radicals and improve aging skin,” says Joel Schlessinger, MD, a dermatologic surgeon in Omaha, Nebraska. “It can also improve collagen and elastin synthesis — which can improve the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles; help reduce inflammation, provide natural, mild exfoliation; and brighten skin.”

Research has shown the effectiveness of topical application. One study found that topical vitamin C increased collagen production among study participants in all age groups.

 The study participants noticed the effects after 40 days of treatment, and found they were even more pronounced at the 60-day mark.
Topical vitamin C can also help with melasma and hyperpigmentation. According to past research, participants saw an average improvement of 73 percent in skin pigmentation after at least one month of applying vitamin C (along with a sunscreen and mandelic or malic acid) to the face.

Who Should Use a Vitamin C Serum on Their Skin?

Research suggests that vitamin C may help protect the skin from many issues, including sunburn, photoaging, hyperpigmentation, wrinkles, sagging, dryness, and an uneven skin tone.

Anyone dealing with these skin issues may want to consider adding a vitamin C serum to their skin-care regimen. But it’s a good idea to get started even if these issues haven’t crept up yet. The best time to deal with the visible signs of aging is before they occur, Dr. Schlessinger says.

Saedi recommends vitamin C serums for people of all ages because virtually everyone is at risk of sun damage, and with vitamin C serums “we are minimizing the amount of sun damage that our skin’s getting from sunlight,” she says. She says it does double duty, both protecting the skin and helping problem areas recover. “It’s preventive in that it’s protecting you from sun damage and signs of aging like wrinkles,” Saedi says. “It also helps promote collagen and boost your natural collagen formation.”

Expert Tips for Choosing a High-Quality Vitamin C Serum

You’ll find vitamin C in a few different forms, including L-ascorbic acid, ascorbyl-6-palmitate, and magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, notes research.

 L-ascorbic acid is the most researched and the most biologically active (or effective), according to the study authors.
The price of these serums can vary greatly, from about $10 to $250 per ounce. How do you choose? Pay attention to the vitamin C concentration levels (usually referred to as L-ascorbic acid or ascorbic acid on the label, Schlessinger says). Some may have 10 percent, while others may have 15 or 20 percent. Look for one with a concentration higher than 8 percent, which is the minimum amount considered biologically significant.

The higher the concentration, the stronger the serum, though the benefits taper off after 20 percent.

“Twenty percent is where it maxes out — you’re not going to get anything more powerful than that,” Saedi says.
When choosing your product, look for one that also contains vitamin E, which helps deliver vitamin C more effectively.

In addition, C helps E transform into its more active form, enhancing the duo’s ability to quell free radicals.

“When vitamin C and E are combined, they work together to provide very powerful antioxidant protection,” Schlessinger says.
Ferulic acid is also a good addition to your skin-care routine — it helps stabilize vitamin C, which makes it less likely to irritate the skin.

 “When these vitamins [C and E] work with ferulic acid, they enhance one another’s stability to ensure maximum benefits are achieved,” Schlessinger adds.

How to Use a Vitamin C Serum and Reap Its Benefits

Saedi says to apply a few drops of serum to your face after you wash and dry it. “A little bit goes a really long way,” she says. She recommends putting it on every morning, all year round. “It has some benefits with sun exposure, so it helps to apply it in the morning as the first layer of protection,” she says. She says to then layer on your moisturizer and sunscreen. Serums are better than drops of vitamin C “boosters” added to your moisturizer, Saedi says. Vitamin C drops may not be as potent as serums, and mixing them with moisturizer may dilute the effects.

Store your bottle in a cool, dark place away from extreme heat, such as a bathroom cabinet, as opposed to on your counter. “Storing a vitamin C serum correctly is integral to its success,” Schlessinger says. “A good rule of thumb is to toss the serum six months after it’s been opened and to keep the serum in a cool, dark place.” If you’re using it according to the instructions, it’ll likely be gone before the six months is up. If not, you’ll want to throw it out. “When vitamin C is used past its shelf life, it can actually have negative effects,” Schlessinger says. More on that next.

Potential Side Effects and Risks of Vitamin C Serums

Vitamin C is a safe and generally well-tolerated ingredient. “The only risk is that some of these serums have so many different ingredients in them,” Saedi says, adding that these extra ingredients may result in an allergic reaction in some people.

Most of the research mentioned above reported that study subjects had no irritation or negative reactions. The only exception was those with sensitive skin. One study found that 6 percent of participants experienced itchiness, which the researchers said was likely due to the acidity of vitamin C.

Schlessinger says people with very sensitive skin should consult with a dermatologist before use, since potent forms of vitamin C can sometimes irritate sensitive skin.
Vitamin C serum may result in yellowing of the skin or clothes, stinging, or dryness, though those effects are rare.

Take caution when applying around the eyes.

Which Vitamin C Serums to Buy? Dermatologists Name Their Clients’ Favorites

SkinCeuticals C E Ferulic With 15% L-Ascorbic Acid ($166, Skinceuticals.com) is “tried and true,” says Saedi, who notes it has a cult-like following. While it’s expensive, the product has research to back up its benefits.

SkinBetter Science Alto Defense Serum ($160, Skinbetter.com) stars vitamins C and E, along with 17 antioxidants to guard against a range of free radicals and reduce redness.

Drunk Elephant C-Firma Day Serum ($78, Sephora.com) contains 15 percent L-ascorbic acid, plus ferulic acid for a powerful yet lightweight day serum.

Paula’s Choice C15 Super Booster ($52, Dermstore.com) is another high-potency pick with 15 percent vitamin C, along with E and ferulic acid, plus hyaluronic acid to attract moisture for supple skin.

Vichy Vitamin C Serum Brightening Skin Corrector ($22.89, Walgreens.com) boasts minimal ingredients to keep things simple. With ascorbic acid, vitamin E, and hyaluronic acid, this serum may boost skin smoothness and radiance.

The Ordinary Ascorbic Acid 8% + Alpha Arbutin 2% ($11, Deciem.com) offers a budget-friendly way to try a vitamin C serum, and also contains alpha-arbutin, another ingredient that’s touted for its skin-brightening abilities.

Additional reporting by Jessica Migala.

Editorial Sources and Fact-Checking

Everyday Health follows strict sourcing guidelines to ensure the accuracy of its content, outlined in our editorial policy. We use only trustworthy sources, including peer-reviewed studies, board-certified medical experts, patients with lived experience, and information from top institutions.

Sources

  1. Vitamin C. Medline Plus.
  2. The Roles of Vitamin C in Skin Health. Nutrients.
  3. Bioactive Compounds for Skin Health: A Review. Nutrition.
  4. The Role of Vitamin C in Pushing Back the Boundaries of Skin Aging: An Ultrasonographic Approach. Clinical, Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology.
  5. Successful Short-Term and Long-Term Treatment of Melasma and Postinflammatory Hyperpigmentation Using Vitamin C With a Full-Face Iontophoresis Mask and a Mandelic/Malic Acid Skin Care Regimen. Journal of Drugs in Dermatology.
  6. The Roles of Vitamin C in Skin Health. Nutrients.
  7. Topical Vitamin C and the Skin: Mechanisms of Action and Clinical Applications. Journal of Clinical and Aesthetic Dermatology.
  8. Topical Vitamin C and the Skin: Mechanisms of Action and Clinical Application. Journal of Clinical and Aesthetic Dermatology.
  9. Vitamin C in Dermatology. Indian Dermatology Online Journal.
  10. Cosmeceuticals Using Vitamin C and Other Antioxidants. Cosmeceuticals.
  11. Protective Effects of Topical Vitamin C Compound Mixtures against Ozone-Induced Damage in Human Skin. Journal of Investigative Dermatology.

Resources

  • Vitamin C. MedlinePlus. March 2022.
  • Pullar JM, Carr AC, Vissers MCM. The Roles of Vitamin C in Skin Health. Nutrients. August 2017.
  • Crisan D, Roman I, Crisan M, et al. The Role of Vitamin C in Pushing Back the Boundaries of Skin Aging: An Ultrasonographic Approach. Clinical, Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology. September 2015.
  • Taylor MB, Yanaki JS, Draper DO, et al. Successful Short-Term and Long-Term Treatment of Melasma and Postinflammatory Hyperpigmentation Using Vitamin C With a Full-Face Iontophoresis Mask and a Mandelic/Malic Acid Skin Care Regimen. Journal of Drugs in Dermatology. January 2013.
  • Al-Niaimi F, Zhen Chiang NY. Topical Vitamin C and the Skin: Mechanisms of Action and Clinical Applications. Journal of Clinical and Aesthetic Dermatology. July 2017.
  • Saokar Telang P. Vitamin C in Dermatology. Indian Dermatology Online Journal. April–June 2013.
  • Michalak M, Pierzak M, Krecisz, et al. Bioactive Compounds for Skin Health: A Review. Nutrients. January 2021.
  • Barnes LE, Mazur C, McDaniel DH. Cosmeceuticals Using Vitamin C and Other Antioxidants. Cosmeceuticals. 2021.
  • Valacchi G, Pecorelli A, Belmonte G, et al. Protective Effects of Topical Vitamin C Compound Mixtures Against Ozone-Induced Damage in Human Skin. Journal of Investigative Dermatology. June 2017.
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