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Gibraltar: Where British Culture Meets Sunny Southern Europe

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Fondly referred to as 'The Rock', the limestone monolith that dominates Gibraltar is a fascinating geological feature marking the entrance to the Mediterranean, but its cultural significance is just as intriguing. A British Overseas Territory, Gibraltar is a slice of Britain bathed in the warmth of Southern Europe.

Its striking visuals, remarkable limestone caves, and Europe’s only wild monkey population are among the curiosities that have turned Gibraltar into a unique travel destination.

But for curious Brits, that uniqueness is set within startlingly familiar surroundings. From the Morrisons supermarket and the branch of famous retailer Marks & Spencer to the iconic red telephone boxes, Gibraltar’s central area is replete with British touches.

The brief story of Gibraltar

The limestone promontory may be relatively small, but it has a big history of power struggles thanks to its strategic position guarding the entrance to the Mediterranean.

The Rock passed through Moorish and Spanish hands before the 1704 Anglo-Dutch capture during the War of the Spanish Succession. After years of uncertainty, Spain ceded it to Britain in the 1713 Treaty of Utrecht, officially marking the start of its British sovereignty.

Gibraltarians, through referendums, have overwhelmingly voiced their wish to remain British.

Most recently, Brexit has caused a crisis of governance in the British Overseas Territory. Unsurprisingly, given the proximity to mainland Spain, the people of Gibraltar voted overwhelmingly to remain in the European Union.

But the overall leave vote and subsequent exit of the United Kingdom from EU membership has thrown Gibraltar into uncertainty. Large numbers of commuters cross the border with Spain every day, and longer queues have become commonplace since the change. According to the Gibraltar Chronicle, Gibraltar has “still not obtained a safe and beneficial permanent agreement with the EU.”

The Rock of Gibraltar

Exploring ‘The Rock’ itself is the primary goal of most visitors to Gibraltar. To do so, you’ll need a Gibraltar Nature Reserve ticket ($18), available from official tour operators and at entry points to the upper rock. The ticket allows entry into all sites within the reserve for the whole day, including St Michael’s Cave.

Cable car

The Gibraltar Cable Car ($19 return) offers a swift 6-minute ascent to its top station, 1,350 feet above sea level, providing unbeatable panoramic views of two continents, three countries, and two bodies of water.

Located near Alameda Gardens at Main Street's southern end, this aerial tramway takes passengers to the Ape's Den (for part of the year only) and on to the Rock's peak. At the summit, visitors can explore terraces, a café, and a restaurant with a view.

Combined tickets including the return journey on the cable car and the nature reserve ticket—needed to explore the upper rock—are available for $37.

Ape’s Den

Although you can encounter the famous animals all over the Rock, the Ape’s Den is your best bet.

Gibraltar’s population of Barbary macaques are playful, inquisitive, and won't think twice about jumping on tourists or stealing food. While they appear tame, they are wild animals and as such will scratch or bite if frightened, so respect is advised, especially around the younger ones.

St. Michael’s Cave

St. Michael's Cave is the most famous of the remarkable limestone caves on the Upper Rock. Artifacts suggest the cave was known to Neolithic and Neanderthal civilizations. Local legends linked the cave to a subterranean passage through which the Barbary macaques arrived in Gibraltar and even considered it an entrance to the underworld.

Created by rainwater erosion, its impressive stalactites and stalagmites are lit by a colorful light show known as ‘The Awakening’ every 5-10 minutes throughout the day. Today, the cave is a major tourist attraction with over a million visitors every year.

This accidental discovery of the lower section by sappers in 1942 revealed a stunning cavern, potentially sealed for as long as 20,000 years. The stalactite columns evoke images of a cathedral and are a truly memorable sight, together with the stunning clear water lake.

Entry to the upper cave is included in the nature reserve fee. Three-hour tours ($36) offer an intimate view of the lower cave. Advance bookings are essential, but be aware that some physical activity is required and children under 10 are not permitted to visit.

Moorish Castle

Dominating Gibraltar for nearly 700 years, the Moors profoundly influenced its culture and identity to this day. Their castle, boasting a tall tower and expansive walled-fortification, is the best visual example.

Written records from 1068 indicated that an Arab governor ordered the construction of a fort in the 8th century to monitor the strait, but more precise details are shrouded in mystery.

Tunnels of Gibraltar

Over the course of almost 200 years, the British Army constructed extensive tunnels in Gibraltar. Despite its small 2.6 square mile area, the Rock of Gibraltar boasts an astonishing 34 miles of tunnels.

Initially made in the late 18th century for artillery communication and storage, more tunnels were added in the 19th century for easier access and water storage. The 20th century witnessed the peak of tunnelling, transforming the Rock into an underground fortress for thousands of men.

Tunnelling stopped in 1968, and most tunnels are now under the civilian Government of Gibraltar, though some remain with the Ministry of Defence or are sealed for safety.

Things to do in Gibraltar

Although the Rock is the primary tourist attraction, there’s also a compact yet lively city to explore at its foot.

Strolling Main Street is the best way to get oriented, passing the public plaza at Grand Casemates Square, a bustling shopping district, Southport Gates fortifications, and the botanical gardens.

Grabbing a bite to eat is an interesting experience, with fish and chips sharing menu space with Spanish tortilla and churros.

National Museum of Gibraltar

Founded in 1930, the National Museum of Gibraltar showcases the land’s history, culture, and natural history, including remains from a 14th-century Moorish bathhouse. The museum features displays on The Rock's symbolism over the ages, Phoenician and Carthaginian collections, and a room highlighting the Great Siege of Gibraltar (1779-1783), the longest siege endured by the British Armed Forces.

Europa Point

The Trinity Lighthouse at Europa Point is situated at Gibraltar’s southernmost tip, with a view across the strait to North Africa on a clear day. Built in 1838, the lighthouse was initially powered by a single-wick oil lamp and served as a pivotal navigational aid in the treacherous waters.

Over the years, the lighthouse has undergone numerous upgrades, from burners to modern LED lights, and became fully automated in 1994. While its primary function remains an aid to seafarers, it also stands as a major tourist attraction.

Europa Point is also notable for its mosque, built as a gift from King Fahd of Saudi Arabia to Gibraltar’s Muslim community, and the restored artillery battery known as Harding's Battery.

Gibraltar Airport

Up until recently, the only way to cross between mainland Spain and Gibraltar was to drive across the runway of the territory’s military-run airport. Following the opening of a long-awaited tunnel earlier in 2023, this curiosity is no longer available to drivers, although pedestrians can still walk across the runway.

Just a handful of daily passenger flights land and depart here, all to/from U.K. destinations. Given the airport’s short runway and cross-winds caused by the area’s geography, landings here can be challenging. Aviation followers often enjoy watching planes coming in to land from the lofty vantage point of the Rock.

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