A Silverback mountain gorilla in Rwanda, 10 feet away from me.
Perhaps the world's greatest animal quest is trekking to visit the gorillas of Central Africa, the region of Uganda, Rwanda, and the Republic of the Congo. Experiencing these gentle giants in their natural habitat, surviving in a difficult world, is a magnificent once-in-a-lifetime experience.
I achieved the dream earlier this year when I traveled to Rwanda to visit mountain gorillas. Chris Johnston, of Steppes travel, an expert in gorilla trekking, shares his knowledge and passion in this informative conversation.
Lea: Tell us briefly how gorillas live and what they're like in the wild.
Chris Johnston They're very much like us. They live in family groups. They kind of worry about the same things. They are emotional beings. A dominant Silverback, the leader, makes sure that the group is kept safe and well fed, so everybody follows him. The females are around the babies and the newborns, making sure they're safe.
Blackbacks haven't quite reached the maturity of the Silverbacks. They’re usually showing off, running around, play fighting. And then of course, you have the babies and toddlers, taking their first tentative steps falling over. Good comedy value.
They're doing somersaults and climbing on the backs of their Silverback fathers, who seem so patient. Tell us what a typical trip to see the mountain gorillas entails.
CJ: You buy a permit to spend one hour with the gorillas. It's not cheap: It starts at about $1,500 a permit. But that hour gives you one of the most human wildlife encounters.
You’re taken to the park headquarters, where you meet the guides and rangers who are looking after you. We put people in groups to reflect their ability, because everyone's different, the gorillas move around, and it’s a physically demanding trip. You get a good briefing about the do's and don'ts, and then you head out into a forest rich in flora and fauna, with colorful butterflies, birds, and some great views.
Your rangers are in radio contact, way ahead of you. They got up at first light to pick up the trail of the gorillas, and there is constant communication. And you follow the path that the gorillas take.
And once you're in the same area as the gorillas, you can see the footprints, the broken branches, the recent nest they made. And you'll come across a gorilla group in the distance. And that's when the porters and guides will ask you to take off your your bags and leave anything that you don't want for your one hour with the gorillas. And as I'm sure you remember, that's when the nerves kick in.
Mother and child, Rwanda
It's so exciting.
CJ: You know that they're nearby. And at first, you may not notice them, even though they're huge, black, and furry. The first glimpse may be a face half in shadow. You walk towards them cautiously.You may hear something behind you, and you turn around and you see a juvenile walk past. And then as you become accustomed to your surroundings, you start to see them everywhere: a small group in front of you, or a couple in the trees above you.
Right. And they come very close if they want.
CJ: You have to be sensible. The rule is to stay about 20 feet from a gorilla. But when you’re trekking, gorillas don't stand in line 20 feet away from you. They can be anywhere. I’ve watched a gorilla from a safe distance, and all of a sudden, the Silverback will brush past me and step on my boots, knuckles on foot.
This incredible experience is distilled into into 60 minutes. That's the joy of it. And you keep your eyes open because the gorillas could be anywhere —and the more carefully you look, the more you see.
Gorillas come near you, sometimes unexpectedly. They are gentle giants.
I was told not to pound my chest.
CJ: Exactly. There's lots you can do to stay safe. But to see these gorillas walk past you, it’s mesmerizing and heart-stopping.
It’s not an easy quest.
CJ: Mountain rain forests are steep, about 8,000 to 13,000 feet. It can be muddy, and the altitude is certainly something to consider. When it starts to get really high, gorillas don't have the bamboo and the food they need, and it's not a technical climb, so most of us won’t need assistance. You may feel a little short of breath, but the guides take you slow and steady. Preparation before you go certainly helps. But no matter how much blood sweat and tears, the minute you see them, it's worth every moment.
Which are the best months to go gorilla trekking?
CJ: There's lots of moisture all the time, but November is wet, and January to March is too wet, too slippery. You don't want to be turning over an ankle the minute you head out. June through to September is the best time to go. In August through to September it's driest, the rains have subsided, and the paths are well trodden, as they’ve been used a lot more in the preceding months, so it's clear to get through even though some paths are quite thick. You literally have to hack your way through the rain forest, it grows so quickly.
Most people are not aware that if you're disabled, elderly or feel you're not up to it, there are still ways to achieve the dream.
CJ: Everybody has different fitness levels and different comfort levels, so we try to help people achieve their dream by seeing the gorillas in different ways. First, we allocate a gorilla group nearer to the park headquarters if people find walking in these kinds of conditions a challenge.
Second, there are stretchers you can be carried on, and they're comfortable — if a bit wobbly from time to time. Four porters hold each corner. They take you right up to the gorillas where you then spend an hour on foot, and then another group of four brings you back down. So just because you're not as able bodied as others, you can still get out there and come face-to-face with gorillas.
Porters in Rwanda can carry you on a stretcher up to the gorillas. When you get there you will have ... [+]
And the porters are well paid.
Chris Johnston Porters do the hard work. They will carry your bags, and they can even carry you, and then look after you when you're at the gorillas. Employment opportunities in certain parts of Rwanda are very limited, so these guys — and sometimes girls — get the chance for a steady income stream in an area with few alternative sources of revenue. Using their services generates income for them.
Seeing these magnificent, gentle creatures thriving in their natural habitat was one of the great travel experiences of my life. Can you share one of your meaningful moments?
A Silverback stares at you.
CJ: My strongest memory was actually my first time, 20-25 odd years ago. I came across a group of gorillas, and one Silverback stopped what he was doing, turned round, and stared me straight in the eye. And he checked me out, looked me up and down getting the measure of me. I was almost hypnotized. No other animal I know will look at you in that way. It's just phenomenal.
(This interview was edited and adapted from my award-winning travel podcast, Places I Remember. You can listen to the expanded version —all about mountain gorillas — in Episode #81.)
