Sure, the bushy perms of the 80s might be out of vogue, but there are plenty of modern hair perms that are actually gorgeous. These days, you can perm your hair into effortless beach waves (think: Blake Lively) or even make it look like you just got a salon blow-out all the time.
Perms work by using chemicals to change hair texture, either creating waves or curls. Traditionally, a stylist will wrap hair in rods before putting perm lotion on to set the curl. After letting the lotion sit, stylists rinse it out, dry hair as much as possible, and use a neutralizer to halt the perming process.
But new formulas and techniques are giving perms a revival: Instead of using rods to curl your locks, stylists might use different materials to help you catch the perfect wave. Celebrity hairstylist Anthony Cole gave us the run-down on everything there is to know about modern-day perms, from what to expect before you go to caring for your curls after your appointment.
What's different about modern perms?
It’s all in the technique. Traditionally, stylists use plastic perm rods all over a client’s head, but “when I’m doing perms today, instead of using a traditional perm rod, sometimes I use fabric, or you can do a finger wave, or rollers,” says Cole.
These new techniques create different types of curls, from spiral coils to wavy hair. Cole says that women today typically get perms to enhance their natural texture, whether that’s an S-pattern curl (think: taking your hair out of a braid) or an undone wave.
Do modern perms cause hair damage?
There’s a preconception that perms will leave you with over-processed, damage-ridden tresses, but if it’s done correctly, a perm should leave you unscathed. “Doing your own perm could definitely cause damage,” Cole says, but “if you’re getting it done professionally, there should be no damage.”
That’s not to say that all perms are the same. Everyone can get a perm, but if you have highlights or lightened hair, perms can get trickier. “If I use a perm for color-treated hair on virgin hair, it probably wouldn’t work,” Cole says. “There are perms now that are structured so they can do both.”
How long does a perm last?
First and foremost, when you decide to get a perm, you should prepare to be at the salon for at least two and a half hours. After you get a perm, how long it lasts depends mainly on how long your hair is. For short, often-cut hair, “they can last at least three to four months,” says Cole. “I have clients with really long hair, and when their roots grow in, they like it even better. The roots drop on the head and then they just have the wave at the ends. That can last from six months to eight months.”
How should you style and care for a perm?
The best way for your new curls to shine is to let your hair air-dry most of the way, then use a diffuser, according to Cole. If you really want to enhance your waves, you can use a curling wand, too.
What about heat styling? You definitely can, but you need to be careful. If you want to use a flat iron, make sure to keep the heat lower, around 300ºF. If a flat iron is too hot, you could risk frying your perm. “If you’re using it at 450º, you’re blasting all of the hydration out of the hair,” says Cole. “It shocks the hair and you can lose the perm from heat damage.”
There are also some tricks that can make your perm look as good as possible for as long as possible. Now that your hair is curly, you need to start using products that are formulated specifically for curly or wavy hair. Cole suggests products that promote flexibility, hydration, and elasticity.
Shop curly hair products
Sebastian Curl Shampoo
Diane Detangler comb
