If any city deserves a break, it’s Athens. We, the Brits, have done a sterling job of justifying our plundering of its heritage by keeping its Elgin Marbles in the British Museum, irreparably damaging them in the process. Austerity brought the country to its knees - few places have felt the tragedy and devastation of the 2008 recession as acutely as Greece, where unemployment is still the highest in the euro zone. It was only last year that eurozone ministers agreed that Athens had carried out enough reforms to leave its bailout programme (or was freed from the EU debtor’s prison, depending on how you view it). Then there’s the impact of the refugee crisis of 2015 - the islands of Lesbos and Chios have borne the brunt of this devastating situation despite having little means to do so, testing the limits of the country’s already fragile ecosystem.
Most travel features don’t start with a political summary of the destination in question, but the political upheaval of Athens is what lies behind its rising arts scene. Good art is fuelled by intense emotion, be it love, anger, frustration or pain – or simply by having a point of view – and the Athenians have found a release through creativity, giving rise to tiny one-room galleries, sprawling creative hubs and an inventive food scene. To understand the last 15 years of Greek adversity is to understand a large part of the emotion behind its cultural renaissance and rumbling energy.
Athens isn’t on the tourist map in the same way the Greek islands are. The Acropolis, and its crown jewel, the Pantheon, naturally attracts huge numbers every year (2.7 million in 2017), and yet, for most of us, Athens is considered a somewhat grubby-looking stopover destination, somewhere to rest your head before taking a ferry or another flight to one of the scenic islands, be it Santorini or Mykonos. In the past few years, the city has been building a reputation as a multi-faceted and lively arts destination. Amid both the figurative and metaphorical ruins of Athens, local artists have developed a stronghold community that deserves to be recognised and explored. It’s been described as the new Berlin, but to say so underplays its ancient architecture and layers of history. It’s the juxtaposition of the ancient with the crackle of modernity that makes it such a unique and beguiling destination.
Rising galleries
The low rents of Athens make it fertile ground for artists to rent gallery spaces (a small one-room gallery costs around €150 per month), meaning that there’s no shortage to choose from. Psirri, one of the city’s oldest neighbourhoods, acts like an art treasure trove – a door that looks like someone’s house will take you into a thought-provoking gallery filled with contemporary art. Try Exit for politically-charged murals, Alibi for an interesting, well-curated and ever-changing collection and AD Gallery for avant-garde local and international works.
The district of Metaxougio is home to The Breeder, arguably the city’s most influential new gallery, which is responsible for boosting the profiles of a number of Athenian artists, including irreverent street artist Stelios Faitakis. It’s not easy to find, but look out for a steel silver door (and a frustratingly discreet door handle) on a quiet side street. Its minimalist, stripped-back interiors which span three floors would feel intimidating in a different city, but in Athens a member of staff greets you upon arrival and hands you a print-out providing context.
On a bigger scale, head to the Onassis Cultural Centre – a contemporary arts space with two high-spec performance halls, an open-air theatre, rooftop restaurant and a performance space. Numerous arts festivals are held here, which explore controversial issues and bold ideas. Tickets are cheap in a bid to encourage locals to engage and use the facilities. When we visited, Wu Tsang and Eirini Vourloumis hosted a multi-platform exploration of the refugee crisis in Lesbos via film and photography. The showcase formed part of the annual Fast Forward Festival, this year dedicated to finding cross-cultural common ground, a worthy, apt theme if ever there was one.
A few miles down the road stands the expansive Stavros Niarchos Foundation Cultural Centre – a complex situated in the bay of Faliro. Architect Renzo Piano designed the building to emerge like a dislodged piece of the earth’s crust and so an artificial hill was created giving way to a public library (the first in Athens) and an opera house. Its pièce de résistance is the grass-covered ‘floating roof’ – a new city landmark – and its sloping landscaped park which creep up over the buildings, scented by olive and cypress trees, lavender and thyme.
Its dramatic design aside, the best part of the SNFCC is actually used by those who live in Athens – even at night, the library is full of people and its park busy with teenagers playing music and families having picnic dinners. Even if you don’t manage to book opera tickets (and really you should; curators are dedicated to showcasing both contemporary and heritage performances), you must visit the Lighthouse – a jaw-dropping roof deck accessible by lift or by walking through the park – boasting panoramic vistas of Athens, Piraeus and the Saronic Gulf. It goes without saying that sunsets here are utterly transfixing.
Street art
Few cities are as colourfully painted as Athens, where street art covers street after street of buildings. Those who still fail to appreciate the cultural significance of street art will do well to book a walking tour with Alternative Athens where charismatic and knowledgeable locals guides will take you round winding streets and maze-like neighbourhoods to show you the most poignant and impressive works of street art.
As with most cities, Athenian street art is perhaps the clearest indication of the beliefs and frustrations of the young and creative. For many, street art is a way of discussing the social and economic dysfunction of their country. The technical skill of some of the murals and calligraphy-like typography is nothing short of astounding – many of the street artists have degrees in fine art and it shows. Athens recognises the genre as an important artistic force; even its School of Fine Arts offers a course in street painting.
The most politically charged, colourful and visceral of pieces can be found in Exarcheia, a neighbourhood popular among students and anarchists. It would be remiss not to highlight the long-standing riots that have taken place here between the police and anarchists – Athens is a complicated city that has faced deep-rooted, life-shattering problems that have left the young understandably angry as they suffer the consequences of the decisions of their elders. But Exarcheia itself is a multi-faceted district, where coffee culture is big, meze restaurants spill out onto the streets and live Rebetika music, a form of Greek blues, plays from within bars. A number of galleries have been born here over the past few years, including Cheapart and Galleries Hot Wheels.
An inventive food and drink scene
For too long Greek food has played second fiddle to Italy and Spain, but the vibrant food scene in Athens will no doubt boost its reputation over the next few years. Its regular Street Food Festival is just one example of how the city’s culinary offering is diversifying, bringing together a mix of international and local vendors under one roof. In terms of standout restaurants, there’s Aster in the residential district of Petralona, a very affordable Cretan spot with a living room feel, ideally placed near a small independent outdoor cinema. Food is served on beautiful, eclectic vintage plates by friendly, welcoming staff. We’d recommend the pork sausage and the dakos, double-baked barley bread cooked with ripe tomatoes and creamy cheese.
Downtown in Metaxourgeio sits Seycheles, a laid-back restaurant with both indoor and outdoor tables. It might be off the beaten track for most tourists (but it is very close to the Breeder gallery, so we’d advise taking an afternoon to do both), yet its creative and ever-changing menu, which uses ingredients from all over Greece, make it well worth the journey – the pappardelle with lard and cheese is essential. When in Athens, you’ll need to eat good souvlaki, and there are few vendors that rival Hoocut – a buzzy newcomer to the city’s food scene – and its tasty wraps made with top-quality ingredients.
For more upmarket culinary solutions, Divani’s two Athens hotels boast two great restaurants - at Caravel, Juju is a great place to start your evening with innovative twists on Greek classics – for example, Greek risotto, a delicious new take on the famed Greek salad with feta and fresh mint, and its moussaka croquettes – a perfect side. If you’re searching for Instagrammable views, then book a table at the secret garden restaurant at the Divani Acropolis, which offers views over the iconic Greek ruins.
No trip to Athens would be complete without an evening at Papadakis, helmed by celebrity chef Argiro Barbarigou, positioned in the elegant and well-heeled Kolonaki area. Just around the corner from Parthenis, a chic Greek brand with a store in Athens worth stopping off at before dinner, Papadakis has attracted a stylish celebrity following over the years, from Carla Bruni to Jean Paul Gaultier. Fill up on the chilli and prawn linguini and the beet salad, then finish with the orange sorbet – a refreshing palette cleanser that will have you thinking about it for months afterwards.
For drinks, it doesn’t get much better than Baba au Rum, which is listed among the 50 best bars in the world. Within this intimate space, you’ll find not only the best rum cocktails you’ve ever tasted, both classics and originals, but also a great music soundtrack. If you want a seat, arrive before 9pm as it gets busy. For rooftop bars, the stripped-back, industrial space at Bios is the perfect spot to relax with a beer, but for cocktails and views of the Acropolis turn to Couleur Locale in Monastiraki. Its entrance is hidden via an arcade of antiques and bric-a-brac, and guests walk up several flights of stairs before opening up onto a terrace with candlelit tables and beautiful vistas. It’s also worth visiting Taf, which sits next door to Couleur Locale, a green courtyard surrounded by 1870s buildings, serving drinks, snacks and coffee. If you’re searching for a more lively evening, try any of the bars on Protogenous Street in Pysrri, stopping off at Barrett for its live DJ sets that span blues, rock ‘n’ roll and soul.
Where to stay
Having been renovated in 2017, the Divani Caravel – part of the much-loved luxury Divani group – is an ideal hotel from which to base your stay in Athens. This five-star property is a member of the prestigious Leading Hotels of the World, with spacious, tastefully decorated rooms, comfortable beds and marble bathrooms. Its rooftop pool and sundeck offer sweeping views of the Acropolis and Lycabettus Hill, an idyllic spot from which to watch the sun set, and drinks and snacks are available during the summer months.
As previously mentioned, its newly-opened Juju bar and restaurant has a refreshing inventive menu and strong cocktail list, and its breakfast buffet is excellent, with a mix of typical continental items as well as delicious Greek pastries. The famed Greek hospitality is of utmost importance at Divani Caravel and staff are both friendly and knowledgeable, with excellent food and drink recommendations and a real enthusiasm for the city. You’ll find yourselves heading out late for dinner after becoming engrossed in conversation with one of the engaging and warm bartenders at Juju. Although the hotel is a 15-minute walk from the National Art Gallery, the Museum of Cycladic Art and only a five-minute walk from Evangelismos metro station, there are also regular shuttle buses taking guests in and out of the city centre.
No one needs to be told that they should take a guided tour of the Acropolis, that its ancient buildings are a testament to what civilisation can achieve, but what makes Athens such an exciting and vibrant city is the contrast of its history with its thriving and cosmopolitan arts scene. It is a genuinely interesting, pulsating city brimming with ideas and culture. Athens, despite it all, is ready to welcome you.
AEGEAN is a Star Alliance member and winner of Europe’s Best Regional Airline for the ninth time in a row, tenth time in all. It offers direct flights from three UK cities to one Greek destination and onwards to 31 domestic destinations. For more information on Greece, visit Discover Greece.
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