Dr. Dirt: Lightning strikes can cause varying damage to trees
Dear Dr. Dirt: During one of the many recent rain storms, lightning struck an oak tree in the yard, tearing out a strip about three inches wide and two inches deep from near the top to the bottom of the tree. The wound has been covered with tree dressing, which blends in well with the bark. Is there anything else to be done? — Wayne, Indianapolis
Dear Reader: Lightning can beautiful to watch during the night, but it can be dangerous and deadly. Summer is the time when we enjoy the outdoors until a rain storm comes along. Then, it is only natural to take cover under a tree or trees when golfing or picnicking. Lightning tends to strike the highest point (trees). Thus, indoors is the safest shelter. The damage to trees varies greatly. They can be reduced to splinters or show no obvious damage. If your homeowners insurance covers trees, it would be wise to send them a letter documenting the date the tree was struck. If the tree eventually dies, the insurance company will check the local weather records to make sure there was a storm. Last summer, a neighbor's tree was hit by lightning and pieces of bark were found a block away. This year, the tree appears to have survived and looks normal. In your situation, just wait and see what happens.
More from Dr. Dirt:
► Space out tomato plants to avoid leaf spot
► Japanese beetles have made comeback in Indiana
► Maple trees are noted for shallow roots
Dear Dr. Dirt: I love hanging baskets, but mine seem to go down hill after a few weeks. What is the secret of caring for them? — Linda, Indianapolis
Dear Reader: Hanging baskets are beautiful and very popular. The real problem is that the plants continue to grow and the root space is limited. Watering (perhaps every other day) is essential, and this leaches away the soil nutrients. They must be replaced on a regular schedule (every 10 to 14 days) by fertilizing with a water-soluble product. Do not be afraid of doing some plant pruning to maintain the balance of the basket. If you go for a vacation, be sure to have family or a friend look after the hanging basket. They are attractive focal points, but definitely high-maintenance plantings.
Dear Dr. Dirt: Can a 10-foot burning bush be pruned back so we can see the house without harm? When is the proper time to work on this huge shrub? — Sandy, Indianapolis
Dear Reader: The most widely planted variety of this very popular shrub is the Dwarf burning bush. And, it easily grows 8 to 10 feet high and wide. It is anything but a dwarf! Thus, it is no wonder that people are surprised at the eventual size of this shrub. Fortunately, it can be pruned at anytime to the desirable size. Just remember the shrub will continue to grow after pruning. For example, if you would like a 4-foot height, it would be well to prune the plant back to 3 feet and allow for future growth.
Dear Dr. Dirt: Three years ago, I planted Knock Out roses, which were great the first year. And since that time, they have slowly declined. How can I get them going again? — John, Indianapolis
Dear Reader: It is hard to beat the Knock Out roses. They, along with the hybrid tea roses, bloom on new growth, so they have to be fertilized on a monthly basis. A half-cup of 12-12-12 per bush in March, April, May, June, July and August is a pretty good program for growth and bloom.
Dear Dr. Dirt: We moved into a condo and planted evergreens around our deck for privacy. They are doing their job, but we just discovered bagworms and they are doing a real job on the evergreens. Help! — Jim, Indianapolis
Dear Reader: Initially, bagworms cover their spindle-shaped bags with bits of plant foliage, which blends right in with the evergreens. As a result, they often go unnoticed until late summer when the bags turn brown. Then you realize there is a problem. Since this is probably a relatively small area, hand-picking, squeezing and trashing the bags should solve the problem. If you decide to spray with something like Malathion or another insecticide, the worms will be dead, but the bags will still be hanging on the evergreens. So, forget spraying and just pick the bags.
Dear Dr. Dirt: Last year, the voles or some animal got my potatoes. I had no idea something was after the potatoes. I don't want this to happen again. — David, Indianapolis
Dear Reader: Yes, field mice and voles can go underground and harvest the potatoes without being noticed. They go in the ground under the potato vines. You can use bait stations, which protects birds and the weather from the bait. Snap mouse traps can be used, but they have to be covered for bird and weather protection. Go through the potato patch and carefully raise to vines to look for entrance holes in the ground made by the potato hungry pests. If found, this would be the place for bait stations or traps.
Dr. Dirt is attracted to your garden questions: solvegardenproblems@gmail.com.