Beauty Nails So, What Exactly Is a Russian Manicure? The trending technique offers long-lasting results — but it doesn't come without controversy. By Erin Lukas Erin Lukas Erin is a Brooklyn-based beauty editor. She covers all facets of beauty. InStyle's editorial guidelines Updated on June 23, 2023 @ 11:34AM In This Article View All In This Article What Is a Russian Manicure? What to Expect The Cost The Results Safety and Risks Yes, it is possible to paint your nails all the way to the edges without getting nail polish all over your skin. A clean, Photoshop-like finish is one of the major benefits of the Russian manicure, a manicure technique that's already popular in Europe and gaining traction in the U.S. thanks to TikTok. This manicure stands out because of its intricacy and attention to detail — but that's also what makes it controversial. With the help of experts, we've broken down everything you need to know about Russian manicures, from how long they last to the potential risks. Blush Nails Are the Latest Nail Trend that Everyone Is Obsessed With Keep scrolling for your complete guide to Russian manicures. What Is a Russian Manicure? What sets this manicure apart from the traditional routine is the cuticle work. During a Russian manicure, the technician uses an electric filer to open up the eponychium to remove the cuticle. "This allows the manicurist to go deep into that pocket in order to get the nail polish or gel polish underneath so your manicure is flawless without Photoshop and lasts longer," says Elle Gerstein, a celebrity manicurist who's trained in Russian manicures. It's also important to note that the cuticle is the white dry flakes of skin that come up on the nail at the base, while the eponychium is the seal where your nail ends and skin meets. "This is the controversy of what should and shouldn't be cut," Gerstein adds. What to Expect The treatment starts with the cuticle work, followed by shaping the nail or adding length. Then, the color polish is added. Gel manicures can also be done à la Russian style, too. Time is another factor. If you're getting a Russian manicure, expect to be at the nail salon for a solid chunk of the day. Because of the intricacy of the cuticle work, a single-color manicure can take three hours. A treatment with extensions or nail art will clock in at four to five hours. The Japanese Gel Manicure Is the New Nail Trend to Watch How Much Does a Russian Manicure Cost? The cost of a Russian manicure will vary based on your location and the technician performing the treatment. A manicure can cost $70 to $80 for single color while adding nail art and length will increase the price. How Long Does It Last? Typically, you'll get three to four weeks out of a Russian manicure, making them worth the high price point. Keep in mind this will vary depending on how fast your nails grow. Milk Bath Nails Are the Dreamy "It" Manicure of 2023 What Are the Risks of Russian Manicures? Like with any nail salon treatment, it's important to do your research and go to a technician who's licensed in your state and works out of a salon that properly sanitizes tools and workspaces. As for Russian manicures, the biggest risk is infection, which is why Dr. Adeline Kikam, a board-certified dermatologist, doesn't recommend them. "The proximal nail fold and cuticle serve a structural and functional role in protecting the nail plate from which the nail grows and a seal of protection around the outer nail to prevent infection," Dr. Kikam tells us. "When you push back, trim, or cut your cuticles, it's easier for bacteria and other germs to gain entry into the body and cause an infection." There's also the potential for the tools used during the treatment to cause bleeding as well as local and/or systemic infections if they aren't properly sterilized between uses. Dr. Kikam also points out that regular abrasion to the proximal nail fold can cause hyperpigmentation – especially in skin of color – and the build-up of skin in response to constant injury or irritation.