KUALA LUMPUR, May 3 — When it comes to yong tau foo, everyone has their own preferences. Some prefer large chunky pieces stuffed to the brim with a roughly chopped paste, while others opt for the dainty versions filled with smooth fish paste.

The Hakkas swear by their version, stuffed with a mix of fish, pork and salted fish. Nowadays, it’s a rare specimen in eateries since pork and salted fish have became expensive items.

Unlike the fish paste version, the Hakka variant has a softer bite and the unmistakable umami-taste from salted fish. Most vendors prefer to use Spanish mackerel or ikan tenggiri to make a springy and smooth fish paste.

Many types of yong tau foo are available. The more common vegetables used include items like brinjal, bittergourd, okra and chillies.

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All sorts of soybean products are also filled with the paste like silken tofu, tofu puffs and beancurd skin or foo chuk. The best type of yong tau foo are the ones freshly prepared and hot from the wok.

The simplest way is to serve yong tau foo is in a clear soup lightly flavoured with soybeans. For a stronger taste, the yong tau foo can be dipped with a sweetish brown sauce (tim cheong) or chilli sauce. You either eat it yong tau foo on its own, or bulk up your meal with a plate of rice. Some people also prefer pairing it with smooth chee cheong fun or flat rice noodles.

Gerai Seong Kee, No. 35, Medan Selera Petaling Jaya, Jalan Othman, PJ.

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If you are craving for something healthy, this stall may not be the best choice as they excel in deep fried yong tau foo, like foo chuk, wantans and brinjal. Perfectly golden in colour, these items are exceptionally tasty. For a healthier meal, try their vegetables stuffed with the chunky fish paste. You can also supplement your meal here with abacus seeds, simple but delicious turmeric chicken wings, vinegar pork trotters, assam fish head and curry fish head.

Restoran Wai Kei, 4 ½ Miles, Jalan Klang Lama (next to The Scott Garden), KL

This no-frills eatery serves Hakka comfort food like vinegar pork trotters, rice wine chicken and of course, yong tau foo. Every table on the premises would have a plate of this signature dish where vegetables and tofu are stuffed with a chunky fish paste made from Spanish mackerel. Unlike other eateries, their version is doused in a brown sauce made with soybeans. Some diners pop over here for lunch just to enjoy their yong tau foo, where a minimum six pieces of assorted yong tau foo must be ordered.

Puchong Yong Tau Foo, No. 105, Jalan Kampung Baru, Jalan Tembusu, Batu 14, Puchong

The secret of success for this stall located in a village is their super fresh yong tau foo, made only upon your order. The modus operandi is simple — select the items you want from a buffet of ingredients and it’ll be stuffed to the brim with fish paste then deep fried. The yong tau foo is served in two parts: vegetables and tofu in a clear soup with sweet potato leaves while the crispy fried items are served separately. The eatery also serves pan mee and paper wrapped chicken. With the success of their operations, the place has expanded to Kota Kemuning, Cheras and Seri Kembangan.

Yong tau foo stall, Restoran Sin Hoy Kee, Kampung Cempaka, Petaling Jaya

Hidden in this village, you can find this stall at the corner coffee shop that serves chunky fish paste (yee wat) or yong tau foo to the residents here. Order a bowl of comforting yee wat that is served with a clear anchovy broth or their extra large okra stuffed to the brim with fish paste. Pair it with Mee Jawa or bitter gourd noodles from the other stalls that trade here.

Wah Kiow Hakka Yong Tou Foo, 134-B, Lorong Peel, Off Jalan Peel, KL

This yong tau foo stall has been operating for more than 30 years in a wooden shack. Unlike other eateries, their vegetable items are pan fried instead of deep fried. What is exceptional is their unusual items, like the oyster ball — an umami tasting dried oyster stuffed with fish paste. Another version uses mushrooms. They also offer other goodies like chicken curry and Hakka favourites like vinegar pork trotters, char yoke and preserved vegetables or mui choy braised pork. The place also has another branch at Taman Segar in Cheras.