Wow, Labtingaw!
There were times in the past when subsistence rural fishermen would catch more fish than their families could consume in a day. They’d have to find other ways to keep the extra fish, after everyone at home had had their fill of fresh fish “tinowa” or “sinugba.” Well, of course, they’d first try to sell the extra; but in a small village where everyone was a fisherman, getting the extra fish sold was like shooting at the moon.
There were no refrigerators in the province then. And, yes, salting and drying the fish were the common options. Either they’d put the fish between layers of salt or soak it in brine in a container, or they’d dry it under the sun.
Salting is ideal if the fish is intended to keep for a long time, say, up to several months. In fact, the longer the time that the salting takes – either as “ginamos” or “tinabal” – the better the taste of the fish. Dried fish – “buwad” in the dialect – can keep for long, too, but not as long as salted fish can.
At times, however, people just wanted the fish to stay okay until the following day’s meal. Salting would render the fish in an awkward state in such a short time.
The fish would no longer be fresh, and the saltiness would not yet have sufficiently penetrated its flesh.
On the other hand, the fish would not completely dry in a half or full day. And so “labtingaw” came to be. It varies from the regular “buwad” in terms of saltiness and dryness. Unlike the “buwad,” which is rubbed with salt before drying, the “labtingaw” is simply soaked in brine or mere seawater for a few minutes before putting it out in the sun.
“Labtingaw” is less salty and retains more moisture than “buwad.” Another difference between the two is that “buwad” can be dried either whole or split open, “labtingaw” is always split open. Plus – only certain kinds of fish will make good “labtingaw,” and these have to be processed while still fresh. The best way to enjoy “labtingaw” is fried – especially flash fried in little oil – and dipped in spicy vinegar with crushed garlic and ginger. It goes well with freshly cooked white rice at meal – and even with champorado or plain “lugaw” as snacks.
If to be consumed within the next two to three days, “labtingaw” may be stored in the chiller section of the fridge; in the freezer if it is to be kept longer, or else it will grow molds. There’s “labtingaw” sold in certain marketplaces in known fishing districts. But to be sure that the “labtingaw” is really of good quality and of the right taste, it’s actually easy to make at home:
1. First, in a bowl prepare brine for soaking the fish in. Experiment for the right saltiness, and mixing in a little powdered pepper and crushed garlic and ginger. Set aside.
2. Clean the fish and split it from the dorsal side and down to the belly part, but not all the way through. Open the fish in a butterfly form.
3. Soak the opened fish in the brine for about two to three minutes.
4. Arrange the fish in a wide plate – or preferably on a mesh panel – and bring outside for drying under the sun.
5. Dry for half a sunny day, turning the fish on its other side midway.
Afterwards, the homemade “labtingaw” is ready for frying or storing.