THIS MANUAL CONTAINS IMPORTANT SAFETY,

WARNING PERFORMANCE AND SERVICE INFORMATION.

Read it before you take the first ride on your new bicycle, and keep it for reference.
 USE OF THIS MANUAL Other Manuals and Instructions
Many of the components on your bike were not
made by Novara or REI. When available from the
manufacturer, Novara packages these manuals and/
Novara Bicycle Owner’s Manual or instructions with our bikes for delivery to you. We
This manual contains important information strongly recommend that you read and follow all the
afecting your safety and the proper use of bicycles. manufacturer’s speciic instructions included with
It is an important document for every bicycle owner. your bike.
It is organized into two parts: Service Locations
PART I REI would like to be your primary contact for service
This is a generic guide to the proper function and and adjustment of your bicycle, instruction in its use
use of bicycles. This information is licensed to us and and any other questions. Please contact your local
is used by many bike companies. Many aspects of REI store. In those locations where there is no REI
bicycles and their operation are common or “generic” store, please contact your local bicycle shop. If you
and this section covers many of them. choose another service location, all Novara-brand
service parts will come from REI. Please contact us
PART II with questions.
This portion of the manual contains information
speciic to Novara bicycles and topics we feel you
need to be informed about.
A manual cannot teach you how to ride, and a manual
the size of an encyclopedia could not cover every
combination of bicycle, rider and conditions. The
Novara manuals and supplements focus mainly on
the bicycle and do not teach you to ride. REI and other
companies ofer great varieties of online, printed and
person-to-person learning opportunities. Please take
the time to appropriately inform yourself if you have
a curiosity, question or concern.
This manual is not intended as a comprehensive use,
service, repair or maintenance manual. It contains no
thorough assembly instructions. Nor is this manual
a detailed service guide for any part of your bike.
Please contact your local REI store or a reputable
bicycle dealer for all service, repairs or maintenance.
REI or your other service provider should also be able
to refer you to online materials, classes or books on
bicycle use and maintenance.

1
PART I
CONTENTS SECTION 5. SERVICE ........................... 38–40
5.A Service Intervals ..........................................................39
5.B If Your Bicycle Sustains an Impact .........................40

USE OF THIS MANUAL .................................1 PART II

SECTION A.
PART I IMPORTANT SAFETY INFO ................. 42–48
A.1 Bicycling-Inherent Risk .............................................42
A.2 Warning Label ..............................................................43
GENERAL WARNING.....................................4 A.3 Riding in Traic, Commuting ..................................43
A SPECIAL NOTE FOR PARENTS ..................4 A.4 Riding at Night, Dusk, Dawn ...................................44
A.5 Reinishing.....................................................................45
SECTION 1. FIRST STEPS .........................5–8 A.6 Physical Modiications...............................................45
1.A Bike Fit............................................................................... 5 A.7 Bicycles Have Sharp Surfaces .................................46
1.B Safety First........................................................................ 5 A.8 Installing Accessories ................................................46
1.C Mechanical Safety Check ........................................... 6 A.9 Bicycle Racks .................................................................46
1.D First Ride .......................................................................... 8 A.10 Tire Size ........................................................................47
A.11 Toe-Clip Overlap .......................................................47
A.12 Aftermarket Brake Systems...................................48
A.13 Aftermarket Power Systems .................................48
SECTION 2. SAFETY .............................. 8–14
2.A The Basics ......................................................................... 9
2.B Riding Safety .................................................................10 SECTION B.
2.C Of-Road Safety ............................................................11 INTENDED USE .................................... 50–53
2.D Wet-Weather Riding...................................................11 This section also includes weight limit
2.E Night Riding .................................................................12 information.
2.F Extreme, Stunt or Competition Riding ...............13
2.G Changing Components or
Adding Accessories ....................................................14 B.1 Children's Sidewalk.....................................................51
B.2 Sport and Performance Road .................................51
B.3 General-Purpose Riding ............................................52
SECTION 3. FIT ................................... 15–19 B.4 Cross-Country Riding .................................................52
3.A Stand-Over Height .....................................................15 B.5 Advanced Cross-Country..........................................53
3.B Saddle Position ............................................................16 B.6 All-Mountain .................................................................53
3.C Handlebar Height and Angle ..................................18
3.D Control Position Adjustments ................................19
3.E Brake Reach ...................................................................19

SECTION 4. TECH ................................ 20–37

4.A Wheels.............................................................................20
4.B Seatpost Quick-Release Clamp ..............................26
4.C Brakes ..............................................................................27
4.D Shifting Gears...............................................................31
4.E Pedals...............................................................................33
4.F Bicycle Suspension......................................................34
4.G Tires and Tubes ............................................................35

2
SECTION C.
OFF-ROAD RIDING .............................. 54–55
C.1 Inspection and Maintenance Routines ...............54
C.2 Suspension ....................................................................54
C.3 Jumping .........................................................................55
C.4 Downhill and Lift-Serviced Riding ........................55
C.5 Fixed-Gear Riding and Conversion .......................55

SECTION D.
MATERIALS AND INSPECTION ........... 56–64
D.1 Understanding Metal as a Material ......................56
D.2 Understanding Carbon Fiber ..................................60
D.3 Understanding Components..................................62
D.4 Riding Through Water ...............................................63
D.5 Bicycle Lifespan ...........................................................64

SECTION E.
MAINTENANCE .................................... 64–67
E.1 Warranty Tune ...............................................................64
E.2 Cleaning ..........................................................................65
E.3 Preventing Corrosion .................................................65
E.4 Lubrication .....................................................................65
E.5 Tightening Torques .....................................................66
E.6 Bicycle Repair/Work Stands .....................................66
E.7 Serial Number ...............................................................67

SECTION F.
BICYCLE TRAINERS ....................................67

SECTION G.
PRE-RIDE CHECKLIST .................................68

3
PART I
GENERAL WARNING A SPECIAL NOTE FOR PARENTS
Like any sport, bicycling involves risk of injury and As a parent or guardian, you are responsible for the
damage. By choosing to ride a bicycle, you assume activities and safety of your minor child, and that
the responsibility for that risk, so you need to know includes making sure that the bicycle is properly
— and to practice — the rules of safe and responsible itted to the child; that it is in good repair and safe
riding and of proper use and maintenance. Proper operating condition; that you and your child have
use and maintenance of your bicycle reduces risk learned and understand the safe operation of the
of injury. bicycle; and that you and your child have learned,
understand and obey not only the applicable local
This manual contains many “Warnings” and “Cautions” motor vehicle, bicycle and traic laws, but also
concerning the consequences of failure to maintain the common sense rules of safe and responsible
or inspect your bicycle and of failure to follow safe bicycling. As a parent, you should read this manual
cycling practices. and its warnings and review the bicycle’s functions
and operating procedures with your child, before
The combination of the safety alert symbol letting your child ride the bicycle.
and the word WARNING indicates a potentially
hazardous situation that, if not avoided, could result
in serious injury or death. WARNING
MAKE SURE THAT YOUR CHILD ALWAYS
The combination of the safety alert symbol and
WEARS AN APPROVED BICYCLE HELMET
the word CAUTION indicates a potentially hazardous
WHEN RIDING; BUT ALSO MAKE SURE THAT
situation that, if not avoided, may result in minor
YOUR CHILD UNDERSTANDS THAT A BICYCLE
or moderate injury, or is an alert against unsafe
HELMET IS FOR BICYCLING ONLY, AND MUST
practices.
BE REMOVED WHEN NOT RIDING.
The word CAUTION used without the safety alert
Failure to follow this warning could result in
symbol indicates a situation that, if not avoided,
serious injury or death.
could result in serious damage to the bicycle.
Because it is impossible to anticipate every situation
or condition that can occur while riding, this manual
makes no representation about the safe use of the
bicycle under all conditions. There are risks associated
with the use of any bicycle that cannot be predicted
or avoided and that are the sole responsibility of
the rider.

4
 SECTION 1. FIRST STEPS 1.B - SAFETY FIRST
1. Always wear an approved helmet when riding
your bike, and follow the helmet manufacturer’s
NOTE: We strongly urge you to read this Manual in its instructions for it, use and care.
entirety before your irst ride. At the very least, read 2. Do you have all the other required and
and make sure that you understand each point in this recommended safety equipment? See Section 2.
section, and refer to the cited sections on any issue It’s your responsibility to familiarize yourself
that you don’t completely understand. Please note with the laws of the areas where you ride, and to
that not all bicycles have all of the features described comply with all applicable laws.
in this manual. Ask your local REI store to point out 3. Do you know how to correctly operate your
the features of your bicycle. wheel quick-releases? Check Section 4.A to make
sure. Riding with an improperly adjusted wheel
1.A - BIKE FIT quick release can cause the wheel to wobble or
disengage from the bicycle and cause serious
1. Is your bike the right size? To check, see Section injury or death.
3.A. If your bicycle is too large or too small for 4. If your bike has toe-clips and straps or clipless
you, you may lose control and fall. If your new (“step-in”) pedals, make sure you know how
bike is not the right size, ask your local REI store they work (see Section 4.E). These pedals require
to adjust or exchange it before you ride it. special techniques and skills. Follow the pedal
2. Is the saddle at the right height? To check, see manufacturer’s instructions for use, adjustment
Section 3.B. If you adjust your saddle height, and care.
follow the Minimum Insertion instructions in 5. Do you have “toe overlap”? On smaller framed
Section 3.B. bicycles your toe or toe-clip may be able to
3. Are saddle and seatpost securely clamped? A contact the front wheel when a pedal is all the
correctly tightened saddle will allow no saddle way forward and the wheel is turned. Read
movement in any direction. See Section 3.B. Section 4.E and Part II Section A.11 if you have
toe-clip overlap.
4. Are the stem and handlebars at the right height
for you? If not, see Section 3.C. 6. Does your bike have suspension? If so, check
Section 4.F. Suspension can change the way
5. Can you comfortably operate the brakes? If not,
a bicycle performs. Follow the suspension
you may be able to adjust their angle and reach.
manufacturer’s instructions for use, adjustment
See Section 3.D and 3.E.
and care.
6. Do you fully understand how to operate your
new bicycle? If not, before your irst ride, have
your local REI store explain any functions or
features that you do not understand.

5
PART I
1.C - MECHANICAL SAFETY CHECK Make sure nothing is loose. Lift the front wheel of the
ground by two or three inches, then let it bounce on
Routinely check the condition of your bicycle before the ground. Anything sound, feel or look loose? Do a
every ride. visual and tactile inspection of the whole bike. Any
loose parts or accessories? If so, secure them. If you’re
Nuts, Bolts, Screws and Other Fasteners not sure, ask someone with experience to check.
Because manufacturers use a wide variety of fastener
sizes and shapes made in a variety of materials, often Tires and Wheels
difering by model and component, the correct Make sure tires are correctly inlated (see Section
tightening force or torque cannot be generalized. 4.G.1). Check by putting one hand on the saddle, one
on the intersection of the handlebars and stem, then
To make sure that the many fasteners on your bicycle bouncing your weight on the bike while looking at
are correctly tightened. See page PART II, Section E. tire delection. Compare what you see with how it
Always refer to the torque speciications in the looks when you know the tires are correctly inlated;
instructions provided by the manufacturer of a and adjust if necessary.
component in question. Tires in good shape? Spin each wheel slowly and look
Correctly tightening a fastener requires a calibrated for cuts in the tread and sidewall. Replace damaged
torque wrench. A professional bicycle mechanic with tires before riding the bike.
a torque wrench should torque the fasteners on your Wheels true? Spin each wheel and check for brake
bicycle. If you choose to work on your own bicycle, clearance and side-to-side wobble. If a wheel wobbles
you must use a torque wrench and the correct side-to-side even slightly, or rubs against or hits the
tightening torque speciications from the bicycle brake pads, take the bike to a qualiied bike shop to
or component manufacturer or from your local REI have the wheel trued.
store. If you need to make an adjustment at home or
in the ield, we urge you to exercise care and to have
the fasteners you worked on checked by your local CAUTION
REI store as soon as possible.
On many bicycles, the wheels must be true for
the brakes to work properly. Wheel trueing
WARNING is a skill that requires special tools and
experience. Do not attempt to true a wheel
CORRECT TIGHTENING FORCE ON FASTENERS unless you have the knowledge, experience
—NUTS, BOLTS, SCREWS—ON YOUR BICYCLE and tools needed to do the job correctly.
IS IMPORTANT. Improper wheel trueing could result in injury.
TOO LITTLE FORCE, AND THE FASTENER MAY
NOT HOLD SECURELY. TOO MUCH FORCE,
AND THE FASTENER CAN STRIP THREADS,
STRETCH, DEFORM OR BREAK. EITHER
WAY, INCORRECT TIGHTENING FORCE CAN
RESULT IN COMPONENT FAILURE, WHICH
CAN CAUSE YOU TO LOSE CONTROL AND
FALL WITH RISK OF SERIOUS INJURY OR
DEATH.

6
Wheel rims clean and undamaged? Make sure the Seatpost
rims are clean and undamaged at the tire bead and, If your seatpost has a quick-release for easy height
if you have rim brakes, along the braking surface. adjustment, check that it is properly adjusted and in
the locked position. See Section 4.B.
WARNING Handlebar and Saddle Alignment
BICYCLE WHEEL RIMS ARE SUBJECT TO WEAR. Make sure the saddle and handlebar stem are parallel
to the bike’s center line and clamped tight enough
ASK YOUR LOCAL REI STORE ABOUT WHEEL so that you can’t twist them out of alignment. See
RIM WEAR. SOME WHEEL RIMS HAVE A RIM Section 3.B and 3.C.
WEAR INDICATOR THAT BECOMES VISIBLE
OR INVISIBLE AS THE RIM’S BRAKING Handlebar Ends
SURFACE WEARS. EITHER INDICATOR WILL Make sure the handlebar grips are secure and in
SHOW YOU THAT THE RIM HAS REACHED ITS good condition. Also be sure the handlebar ends and
MAXIMUM USABLE LIFE. RIDING A WHEEL extensions are plugged. If the handlebars have bar
THAT IS AT THE END OF ITS USABLE LIFE end extensions, make sure they are clamped tight
CAN RESULT IN WHEEL FAILURE, WHICH CAN enough so you can’t twist them.
CAUSE YOU TO LOSE CONTROL AND FALL
WITH RISK OF SERIOUS INJURY OR DEATH.
WARNING
Brakes
Check the brakes for proper operation (see Section LOOSE OR DAMAGED HANDLEBAR GRIPS
4.C). Squeeze the brake levers. Are the brake quick- OR EXTENSIONS CAN CAUSE YOU TO
releases closed? Are all control cables seated and LOSE CONTROL AND FALL. UNPLUGGED
securely engaged? Do the brake pads contact the HANDLEBARS OR EXTENSIONS CAN CUT
wheel rim squarely and make full contact with the YOU AND CAUSE SERIOUS INJURY IN AN
rim? Do the brake pads touch the wheel rim within OTHERWISE MINOR ACCIDENT.
an inch of brake lever movement? Can you apply full
braking force at the levers without having them touch VERY IMPORTANT SAFETY NOTE:
the handlebar? If not, your brakes need adjustment.
Do not ride the bike until the brakes are properly Please also read and become thoroughly familiar
adjusted by a professional bicycle mechanic. with the important information on the lifespan
of your bicycle and its components in PART II,
Wheel Retention System Section D. Materials and Inspection.
Make sure the front and rear wheels are correctly
secured. See Section 4.A.

7
PART I
1.D - FIRST RIDE SECTION 2. SAFETY
When you buckle on your helmet and go for your irst
familiarization ride on your new bicycle, be sure to
pick a controlled environment, away from cars, other
cyclists, obstacles or other hazards. Ride to become
familiar with the controls, features and performance
WARNING
of your new bike.
MANY STATES REQUIRE SPECIFIC SAFETY
Familiarize yourself with the braking action of the DEVICES. IT IS YOUR RESPONSIBILITY TO
bike (see Section 4.C). Test the brakes at slow speed, FAMILIARIZE YOURSELF WITH THE LAWS OF
putting your weight toward the rear and gently THE STATE WHERE YOU RIDE AND TO COMPLY
applying the brakes, rear brake irst. Sudden or WITH ALL APPLICABLE LAWS, INCLUDING
excessive application of the front brake could pitch PROPERLY EQUIPPING YOURSELF AND
you over the handlebars. Applying brakes too hard YOUR BIKE AS THE LAW REQUIRES. FAILURE
can lock up a wheel, which could cause you to lose TO FOLLOW THE LAWS COULD RESULT IN
control and fall. Skidding is an example of what can SERIOUS INJURY OR DEATH.
happen when a wheel locks up.
If your bicycle has toe-clips or clipless pedals, Observe all local bicycle laws and regulations.
practice getting in and out of the pedals.
Observe regulations about bicycle lighting, licensing
See Section 1.B.4 above and Section 4.E.
of bicycles, riding on sidewalks, laws regulating bike
If your bike has suspension, familiarize yourself with path and trail use, helmet laws, child carrier laws,
how the suspension responds to brake application special bicycle traic laws.
and rider weight shifts. See Section 1.B.6 above and
It’s your responsibility to know and obey the laws.
Section 4.F.
Practice shifting the gears (see Section 4.D).
Remember never to move the shifter while pedaling
backward, nor pedal backwards immediately after
having moved the shifter. This could jam the chain
and cause serious damage to the bicycle.
Check out the handling and response of the bike; and
check the comfort.
If you have any questions, or if you feel anything
about the bike is not as it should be, consult your
local REI store before you ride.

8
2.A - THE BASICS 2. Always do the Mechanical Safety Check (Section
1.C) before you get on a bike.
1. Always wear a cycling helmet that meets the 3. Be thoroughly familiar with the controls of your
latest certiication standards and is appropriate bicycle: brakes (Section 4.C.); pedals (Section
for the type of riding you do. Always follow the 4.E.); shifting (Section 4.D.)
helmet manufacturer’s instructions for it, use
4. Be careful to keep body parts and other objects
and care of your helmet. Most serious bicycle
away from the sharp teeth of chainrings, the
injuries involve head injuries that can be avoided
moving chain, the turning pedals and cranks, and
if the rider wears an appropriate helmet.
the spinning wheels of your bicycle.
5. Always wear:
• Shoes that will stay on your feet and will grip the
pedals. Never ride barefoot or in sandals.
• Bright, visible clothing that is not so loose that it
can become tangled in the bicycle or snagged by
objects at the side of the road or trail.
• Protective eye wear, to protect against airborne
dirt, dust and bugs—tinted when the sun is
bright, clear when it’s not.
6. Don’t jump with your bike. Jumping a bike,
particularly a BMX or mountain bike, can be fun;
but it can put huge and unpredictable stress on
the bicycle and its components. Riders who insist
Figure 1. Bicycle Helmet
on jumping their bikes risk serious damage to
their bicycles as well as to themselves. Before
Your helmet should be: you attempt to jump, do stunt riding or race with
your bike, read and understand Section 2.F.
• U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission (CPSC)
certiied (look for the label on the helmet) 7. Ride at a speed appropriate for conditions.
Increased speed means higher risk.
• Properly sized for you
• Properly itted to you
• Properly attached to your head!
• Undamaged
ASK YOUR LOCAL REI STORE FOR HELP

WARNING
FAILURE TO WEAR A HELMET WHEN RIDING
UNNECESSARILY EXPOSES YOU TO THE RISK
OF SERIOUS INJURY OR DEATH.

9
PART I
2.B - RIDING SAFETY 10. Never hitch a ride by holding on to another
vehicle.
Obey all rules of the road and all local traic laws. 11. Don’t do stunts, wheelies or jumps. If you intend
1. You are sharing the road or path with others— to do stunts, wheelies, jumps or go racing with
motorists, pedestrians and other cyclists. Respect your bike despite our advice not to, read Section
their rights. 2.F now. Think carefully about your skills before
deciding to take the large risks that go with this
2. Ride defensively. Always assume that others do kind of riding.
not see you.
12. Don’t weave through traic or make any moves
3. Look ahead, and be ready to avoid: that may surprise people with whom you are
• Vehicles slowing or turning, entering the road sharing the road.
or your lane ahead of you, or coming up behind 13. Observe and yield the right of way.
you.
14. Never ride your bicycle while under the inluence
• Parked car doors opening. of alcohol or drugs.
• Pedestrians stepping out. 15. If possible, avoid riding in bad weather, when
• Children or pets playing near the road. visibility is obscured, at dawn, dusk or in the dark,
• Pot holes, sewer grating, railroad tracks, or when extremely tired. Each of these conditions
expansion joints, road or sidewalk construction, increases the risk of accident.
debris and other obstructions that could cause
you to swerve into traic, catch your wheel or
otherwise cause you to lose control and have an
accident.
• The many other hazards and distractions which
can occur on a bicycle ride.
4. Ride in designated bike lanes, on designated
bike paths or as close to the edge of the road
as possible, in the direction of traic low or as
directed by local governing laws.
5. Stop at stop signs and traic lights; slow down
and look both ways at street intersections.
Remember that a bicycle always loses in a
collision with a motor vehicle, so be prepared to
yield even if you have the right of way.
6. Use approved hand signals for turning and
stopping.
7. Never ride with headphones. They mask traic
sounds and emergency vehicle sirens, distract
you from concentrating on what’s going on
around you, and their wires can tangle in the
moving parts of the bicycle, causing you to lose
control.
8. Never carry a passenger, unless it is a small child
wearing an approved helmet and secured in a
correctly mounted child carrier or a child-carrying
trailer.
9. Never carry anything that obstructs your vision
or your complete control of the bicycle, or which
could become entangled in the moving parts of
the bicycle.

10
2.C - OFF-ROAD SAFETY 2.D - WET-WEATHER RIDING
We recommend that children not ride on rough Under wet conditions, the stopping power of your
terrain unless they are accompanied by an adult. brakes (as well as the brakes of other vehicles sharing
the road) is dramatically reduced and your tires don’t
1. The variable conditions and hazards of of-road grip nearly as well. This makes it harder to control
riding require close attention and speciic skills. speed and easier to lose control.
Start slowly on easier terrain and build up your
skills. If your bike has suspension, the increased
speed you may develop also increases your risk WARNING
of losing control and falling. Get to know how to
handle your bike safely before trying increased WET WEATHER IMPAIRS TRACTION, BRAKING
speed or more diicult terrain. AND VISIBILITY, BOTH FOR THE BICYCLIST
2. Wear safety gear appropriate to the kind of riding AND FOR OTHER VEHICLES SHARING THE
you plan to do. ROAD AND MAY INCREASE RISK OF SERIOUS
INJURY OR DEATH.
3. Don’t ride alone in remote areas. Even when
riding with others, make sure that someone
knows where you’re going and when you expect The risk of an accident is dramatically increased in
to be back. wet conditions. To make sure that you can slow down
4. Always take along some kind of identiication, and stop safely in wet conditions, ride more slowly
so that people know who you are in case of an and apply your brakes earlier and more gradually
accident; and take along a couple of dollars in than you would under normal, dry conditions. See
cash for a candy bar, a cool drink or an emergency also Section 4.C.
phone call.
5. Yield right of way to pedestrians and animals.
Ride in a way that does not frighten or endanger
them, and give them enough room so that their
unexpected moves don’t endanger you.
6. Be prepared. If something goes wrong while
you’re riding of-road, help may not be close.
7. Before you attempt to jump, do stunt riding or
race with your bike, read and understand Section
2.F.
Of-Road Respect
Obey the local laws regulating where and how you
can ride of-road, and respect private property.
You may be sharing the trail with others—hikers,
equestrians, other cyclists. Respect their rights. Stay
on the designated trail. Don’t contribute to erosion
by riding in mud or with unnecessary sliding. Don’t
disturb the ecosystem by cutting your own trail
or shortcut through vegetation or streams. It is
your responsibility to minimize your impact on the
environment. Leave things as you found them, and
always take out everything you brought in.

11
PART I
2.E - NIGHT RIDING
Riding a bicycle at night is many times more
WARNING
dangerous than riding during the day. A bicyclist is REMOVING THE REFLECTORS MAY REDUCE
very diicult for motorists and pedestrians to see. YOUR VISIBILITY TO OTHERS USING THE
Therefore, children should never ride at dawn, at dusk ROADWAY. BEING STRUCK BY OTHER
or at night. Adults who chose to accept the greatly VEHICLES MAY RESULT IN SERIOUS INJURY
increased risk of riding at dawn, at dusk or at night OR DEATH.
need to take extra care both riding and choosing
specialized equipment that helps reduce that risk.
Consult your local REI store about night riding If you choose to ride under conditions of poor
safety equipment. visibility, check and be sure you comply with
all local laws about night riding, and take the
following strongly recommended additional
WARNING precautions:
REFLECTORS ARE NOT A SUBSTITUTE FOR • Purchase and install battery- or generator-
LIGHTS. RIDING AT DAWN, AT DUSK, AT NIGHT powered head and tail lights which meet all
OR AT OTHER TIMES OF POOR VISIBILITY regulatory requirements and provide adequate
WITHOUT AN ADEQUATE BICYCLE LIGHTING visibility.
SYSTEM AND WITHOUT REFLECTORS IS • Wear light colored, relective clothing and
DANGEROUS AND MAY RESULT IN SERIOUS accessories, such as a relective vest, relective
INJURY OR DEATH. arm and leg bands, relective stripes on your
helmet, lashing lights attached to your body
and/or your bicycle ... any relective device or
Bicycle relectors are designed to pick up and relect
light source that moves will help you get the
street lights and car lights in a way that may help you
attention of approaching motorists, pedestrians
to be seen and recognized as a moving bicyclist.
and other traic.
• Make sure your clothing or anything you
CAUTION may be carrying on the bicycle does not
obstruct a relector or light.
Check relectors and their mounting brackets
• Make sure that your bicycle is equipped with
regularly to make sure that they are clean,
correctly positioned and securely mounted
straight, unbroken and securely mounted.
relectors.
Have your local REI store replace damaged
relectors and straighten or tighten any that
are bent or loose.

12
 WHILE RIDING AT DAWN, AT DUSK OR AT
NIGHT: WARNING
• Ride slowly.
ALTHOUGH MANY CATALOGS, ADVERTISE-
• Avoid dark areas, areas of heavy or MENTS AND ARTICLES ABOUT BICYCLING
fast-moving traic. DEPICT RIDERS ENGAGED IN EXTREME
• Avoid road hazards. RIDING, THIS ACTIVITY IS EXTREMELY
• If possible, ride on familiar routes. DANGEROUS AND INCREASES YOUR RISK OF
INJURY OR DEATH.
IF RIDING IN TRAFFIC :
• Be predictable. Ride so that drivers can see Remember that the action depicted is being
you and predict your movements. performed by professionals with many years of
• Be alert. Ride defensively and expect the training and experience. Know your limits and
unexpected. always wear a helmet and other appropriate safety
• If you plan to ride in traic often, ask your gear. Even with state-of-the-art protective safety
local REI store about traic safety classes or a gear, you could be seriously injured or killed when
good book on bicycle traic safety. jumping, stunt riding, riding downhill at speed or
in competition.

2.F - EXTREME, STUNT OR

COMPETITION RIDING
Whether you call it Aggro, Hucking, Freeride, North
Shore, Downhill, Jumping, Stunt Riding, Racing
or something else: If you engage in this sort of
extreme, aggressive riding you will get hurt, and you
voluntarily assume a greatly increased risk of injury
or death.
Not all bicycles are designed for these types of riding,
and those that are may not be suitable for all types
of aggressive riding. Check with your local REI store
or the bicycle’s manufacturer about the suitability of
your bicycle before engaging in extreme riding.
When riding fast downhill, you can reach speeds
achieved by motorcycles, and therefore face similar
hazards and risks. Have your bicycle and equipment
carefully inspected by a qualiied mechanic and be
sure it is in perfect condition. Consult with expert
riders and race oicials on conditions and equipment
advisable at the site where you plan to ride. Wear
appropriate safety gear, including an approved
full-face helmet, full-inger gloves, and body armor.
Ultimately, it is your responsibility to have proper
equipment and to be familiar with course conditions.

13
PART I
We recommend against this type of riding because 2.G - CHANGING COMPONENTS
of the increased risks; but if you choose to take the
risk, at least: OR ADDING ACCESSORIES
• Take lessons from a competent instructor irst There are many components and accessories
• Start with easy learning exercises and slowly available to enhance the comfort, performance and
develop your skills before trying more diicult or appearance of your bicycle. However, if you change
dangerous riding components or add accessories, you do so at your
own risk. The bicycle’s manufacturer may not have
• Use only designated areas for stunts, jumping, tested that component or accessory for compatibility,
racing or fast downhill riding reliability or safety on your bicycle.
• Wear a full-face helmet, safety pads and other
safety gear Before installing any component or accessory,
including a diferent size tire, make sure that it is
• Understand and recognize that the stresses compatible with your bicycle by checking with your
imposed on your bike by this kind of activity may local REI store. Be sure to read, understand and follow
break or damage parts of the bicycle the instructions that accompany the products you
• Take your bicycle to your local REI store if purchase for your bicycle. See also PART II, Section D.
anything breaks or bends. Do not ride your Materials and Inspection.
bicycle when any part is damaged.
If you ride downhill at speed, do stunt riding or
ride in competition, know the limits of your skill
WARNING
and experience. Ultimately, avoiding injury is
FAILURE TO CONFIRM COMPATIBILITY,
your responsibility.
PROPERLY INSTALL, OPERATE AND
MAINTAIN ANY COMPONENT OR ACCESSORY
CAN RESULT IN DIMINISHED PERFORMANCE
OR COMPROMISED CONTROL OF YOUR
BICYCLE. THIS CAN LEAD TO LOSS OF
CONTROL OR CRASHES RESULTING IN
SERIOUS INJURY OR DEATH.

14
 SECTION 3. FIT

NOTE: Correct it is an essential element of bicycling

safety, performance and comfort. Making the
adjustments to your bicycle that result in correct
it for your body and riding conditions requires
experience, skill and special tools. Always have your
local REI store make the adjustments on your bicycle;
or, if you have the experience, skill and tools, have
your local REI store check your work before riding. If
your new bike doesn’t it, ask your local REI store to
adjust or exchange it before you ride it.

CAUTION
Figure 2. Stand-Over Height
A properly itting bicycle is essential to a
good cycling experience. A poorly itting
bicycle will, at best, make your experience WARNING
less enjoyable and at worst, be diicult to
operate and control safely. IF YOU PLAN TO USE YOUR BIKE FOR
JUMPING OR STUNT RIDING, READ
SECTION 2.F AGAIN.
3.A - STAND-OVER HEIGHT
Standover height does not apply to bicycles with
Stand-over height is a primary element of a proper
step-through frames. Instead, the limiting dimension
bike it (see ig. 2). It is the distance from the ground
is determined by saddle height range. You must be
to the top of the bicycle’s frame at that point where
able to adjust your saddle position as described in
your crotch is when straddling the bike. To check for
3.B. Saddle Position without exceeding the limits
correct stand-over height, straddle the bike while
set by the height of the top of the seat tube and the
wearing the kind of shoes in which you’ll be riding,
”Minimum Insertion” or “Maximum Extension” mark
and bounce vigorously on your heels. If your crotch
on the seatpost.
touches the frame, the bike is too big for you. Don’t
even ride the bike around the block. A bike which
you ride only on paved surfaces and never take of-
road should give you a minimum stand-over height
clearance of 2 inches (5cm). A bike that you’ll ride on
unpaved surfaces should give you a minimum of 3
inches (7.5cm) of stand-over height clearance. And a
bike that you’ll use of road should give you 4 inches
(10 cm) or more of clearance.

15
PART I
3.B - SADDLE POSITION Once the saddle is at the correct height, make sure
that the seatpost does not project from the frame
Correct saddle adjustment is an important factor beyond its “Minimum Insertion” or “Maximum
in getting the most performance and comfort from Extension” mark (ig. 4).
your bicycle. If the saddle position is not comfortable
for you, see your local REI store.
WARNING
The saddle can be adjusted in three directions:
IF YOUR SEATPOST IS NOT INSERTED IN THE
1. Up-and-Down Adjustment
SEAT TUBE AS DESCRIBED IN B.1 ABOVE,
To check for correct saddle height (ig. 3): THE SEATPOST MAY BREAK, WHICH COULD
CAUSE YOU TO LOSE CONTROL AND FALL
• Sit on the saddle; WITH RISK OF SERIOUS INJURY OR DEATH.
• Place one heel on a pedal;
• Rotate the crank until the pedal with your heel on it
is in the down position and the crank arm is parallel
to the seat tube.
If your leg is not completely straight, your saddle
height needs to be adjusted. If your hips must rock
for the heel to reach the pedal, the saddle is too high.
If your leg is bent at the knee with your heel on the
pedal, the saddle is too low.

Figure 4. Minimum Insertion Mark

Figure 3. Saddle Position

Ask your local REI store to set the saddle for your
optimal riding position and to show you how to
make this adjustment. If you choose to make your
own saddle height adjustment:
• loosen the seatpost clamp
• raise or lower the seatpost in the seat tube
• make sure the saddle is straight fore and aft
• re-tighten the seatpost clamp to the
recommended torque (See manufacturer’s
instructions).

16
2. Front-and-Back Adjustment NOTE: If your bicycle is equipped with a suspension
seatpost, periodically ask your local REI store to check it.
The saddle can be adjusted forward or back to help
you get the optimal position on the bike. Ask your Small changes in saddle position can have a
local REI store to set the saddle for your optimal substantial efect on performance and comfort.
riding position and to show you how to make To ind your best saddle position, make only one
this adjustment. adjustment at a time.

If you choose to make your own front and back A correctly tightened saddle adjusting mechanism
adjustment, make sure that the clamp mechanism is will not allow saddle movement in any direction.
clamping on the straight part of the saddle rails and is Periodically check to make sure that the saddle
not touching the curved part of the rails, and that you adjusting mechanism is properly tightened.
are using the recommended torque on the clamping
fastener(s) (See manufacturer’s instructions).
WARNING
3. Saddle-Angle Adjustment
AFTER ANY SADDLE ADJUSTMENT, BE SURE
Most people prefer a horizontal saddle; but some THAT THE SADDLE ADJUSTING MECHANISM
riders like the saddle nose angled up or down just a IS PROPERLY TIGHTENED BEFORE RIDING.
little. Your local REI store can adjust saddle angle or A LOOSE SADDLE CLAMP OR SEATPOST
teach you how to do it. BINDER CAN CAUSE DAMAGE TO THE
If you choose to make your own saddle angle SEATPOST, OR CAN CAUSE YOU TO LOSE
adjustment and you have a single-bolt saddle CONTROL AND FALL WITH RISK OF SERIOUS
clamp on your seatpost, it is critical that you loosen INJURY OR DEATH.
the clamp bolt suiciently to allow any serrations
on the mechanism to disengage before changing
the saddle’s angle, and then that the serrations
fully re-engage before you tighten the clamp bolt
to the recommended torque (See manufacturer’s
instructions).

17
PART I
If, in spite of carefully adjusting the saddle height,
tilt and fore-and-aft position, your saddle is still
uncomfortable, you may need a diferent saddle
design. Saddles, like people, come in many diferent
shapes, sizes and resilience. Your local REI store
can help you select a saddle which, when correctly
adjusted for your body and riding style, will
be comfortable.
If your saddle causes you pain, numbness or other
discomfort, listen to your body and stop riding until
you see your local REI store about saddle adjustment
or a diferent saddle.

CAUTION Figure 5.

Some people have claimed that extended

riding with a saddle that is incorrectly
adjusted or that does not support your pelvic
area correctly can cause short-term or long-
term injury to nerves and blood vessels, or
even impotence with risk of injury.

3.C - HANDLEBAR
HEIGHT AND ANGLE
Your bike is equipped either with a “threadless” stem,
which clamps on to the outside of the steerer tube Figure 6.
(ig. 5), or with a “quill” stem, which clamps inside the
steerer tube by way of an expanding binder bolt (ig.
6). If you aren’t absolutely sure which type of stem
your bike has, ask your local REI store.
If your bike has a “threadless” stem, your local REI
store may be able to change handlebar height by
moving height-adjustment spacers from below the
stem to above the stem, or vice versa. Otherwise,
you’ll have to get a stem of diferent length or rise.
Consult your local REI store. Do not attempt to do this
yourself, as it requires special knowledge.
If your bike has a “quill” stem, you can ask your local
REI store to adjust the handlebar height a bit by
adjusting stem height.
A quill stem has an etched or stamped mark on
its shaft which designates the stem’s “Minimum
Insertion” or “Maximum Extension”. This mark
must not be visible above the headset.

18
Some bicycles are equipped with an adjustable angle 3.D - CONTROL POSITION
stem. If your bicycle has an adjustable angle stem,
ask your local REI store to show you how to adjust it. ADJUSTMENTS
Do not attempt to make the adjustment yourself, as
The angle of the brake and shift control levers and
changing stem angle may also require adjustments
their position on the handlebars can be changed. Ask
to the bicycle’s controls.
your local REI store to make the adjustments for you.
If you choose to make your own control lever angle
WARNING adjustment, be sure to re-tighten the clamp fasteners
to the recommended torque. (See manufacturer’s
AN INCORRECTLY TIGHTENED STEM BINDER instructions).
BOLT, HANDLEBAR BINDER BOLT OR BAR-
END EXTENSION CLAMPING BOLT MAY
COMPROMISE STEERING ACTION, WHICH 3.E - BRAKE REACH
COULD CAUSE YOU TO LOSE CONTROL AND
FALL WITH RISK OF SERIOUS INJURY OR Many bikes have brake levers that can be adjusted
DEATH. for reach. If you have small hands or ind it diicult
to squeeze the brake levers, your local REI store
can either adjust the reach or it shorter reach
Place the front wheel of the bicycle between your brake levers.
legs and attempt to twist the handlebar/stem
assembly. If you can twist the stem in relation to the
front wheel, turn the handlebars in relation to the WARNING
stem, or turn the bar-end extensions in relation to
the handlebar, the bolts are insuiciently tightened. THE SHORTER THE BRAKE LEVER REACH, THE
MORE CRITICAL IT IS TO HAVE CORRECTLY
Your local REI store can also change the angle of the
ADJUSTED BRAKES, SO THAT FULL BRAKING
handlebar or bar-end extensions.
POWER CAN BE APPLIED WITHIN AVAILABLE
BRAKE LEVER TRAVEL.
BRAKE LEVER TRAVEL INSUFFICIENT TO
APPLY FULL BRAKING POWER CAN RESULT
IN LOSS OF CONTROL, WHICH MAY RESULT
IN SERIOUS INJURY OR DEATH.

19
PART I
SECTION 4. TECH • A hollow axle with a shaft (“skewer”) running
through it which has a nut on one end and
a itting for a hex key, lock lever or other
tightening device on the other (through-bolt
wheel, ig. 8)
It’s important to your safety, performance and
enjoyment to understand how things work on • Hex nuts or hex key bolts which are threaded
your bicycle. onto or into the hub axle (bolt-on wheel, ig. 9)
It is essential that you:
We urge you to ask your local REI store how to do the
things described in this section before you attempt • Ask your local REI store to help you make
them yourself, and that you have your local REI store sure you know how to install and remove your
check your work before you ride the bike. wheels safely.
• Understand and apply the correct technique
If you have even the slightest doubt as to whether
for clamping your wheel in place.
you understand something in this section of the
Manual, talk to your local REI store. • Each time, before you ride the bike, check that
the wheel is securely clamped.
4.A - WHEELS The clamping action of a correctly secured wheel
Bicycle wheels are designed to be removable for must emboss the surfaces of the dropouts.
easier transportation and for repair of a tire puncture.
In most cases, the wheel axles are inserted into slots, WARNING
called “dropouts” in the fork and frame, but some
suspension mountain bikes use what is called a RIDING WITH AN IMPROPERLY SECURED
“through axle” wheel mounting system. WHEEL CAN CAUSE THE WHEEL TO WOBBLE
If you have a mountain bike equipped with through OR FALL OFF THE BICYCLE, WHICH CAN CAUSE
axle front or rear wheels, make sure that your local REI SERIOUS INJURY OR DEATH.
store has given you the manufacturer’s instructions,
and follow those when installing or removing a
through axle wheel. If you don’t know what a through
axle is, ask your local REI store.
Wheels are secured in one of three ways:
• A hollow axle with a shaft (“skewer”) running
through it which has an adjustable tension nut
on one end and an over-center cam on the
other (cam action system, ig. 7a and ig. 7b)

20
 Figure 7a. Figure 7b.

Figure 8. Figure 9.

Your bicycle may be equipped with a diferent securing method for the front wheel than for the rear wheel.
Discuss the wheel securing method for your bicycle with your local REI store.

It is very important that you understand the type of wheel securing method on your bicycle, that you know
how to secure the wheels correctly, and that you know how to apply the correct clamping force that safely
secures the wheel.

Ask your local REI store to instruct you in correct wheel removal and installation, and ask for the
manufacturer’s instructions.

21
PART I
1. Front Wheel Secondary Retention Devices 2. Wheels With Quick-Release Systems
Most bicycles have front forks that utilize a secondary The wheel hub is clamped in place by the force of the
wheel retention device to reduce the risk of the wheel quick-release against one dropout and pulling the
disengaging from the fork if the wheel is incorrectly tension-adjusting nut, by way of the skewer, against
secured. Secondary retention devices are not a the other dropout. The amount of clamping force is
substitute for correctly securing your front wheel. controlled by the tension-adjusting nut. Turning the
tension-adjusting nut clockwise while keeping the
Secondary retention devices fall into two basic cam lever from rotating increases clamping force;
categories: turning it counterclockwise while keeping the cam
a. The clip-on type is a part the manufacturer adds lever from rotating reduces clamping force. Less than
to the front wheel hub or front fork. half a turn of the tension-adjusting nut can make the
diference between safe clamping force and unsafe
b. The integral type is molded, cast or machined
clamping force.
into the outer faces of the front fork dropouts.
Ask your local REI store to explain the particular
secondary retention device on your bike.

CAUTION
Do not remove or disable the secondary
retention device.
As its name implies, it serves as a back-up for a
critical adjustment. If the wheel is not secured
correctly, the secondary retention device can
reduce the risk of the wheel disengaging
from the fork.

22
3. Removing and Installing Wheels (2) If your bike has quick-release retention, move the
lever from the locked or CLOSED position to the
The removal and re-installation of most hub brakes OPEN position (ig. 7a and ig. 7b).
and internal gear hubs requires special knowledge.
Incorrect removal or assembly can result in brake or
gear failure, which can cause you to lose control and (3) If your front fork has an integral secondary
fall with risk of serious injury or death. retention device, and a quick-release system (ig.
7a) loosen the tension-adjusting nut enough to
CAUTION allow removing the wheel from the dropouts.
If your front wheel uses a cam-and-cup system,
(ig. 7b) squeeze the cup and cam lever together
If your bike is equipped with a hub brake such
while removing the wheel. No rotation of any
as a rear coaster brake, front or rear drum,
part is necessary with the cam-and-cup system.
band or roller brake; or if it has an internal
gear rear hub, do not attempt to remove the You may need to tap the top of the wheel with
wheel unless you are conident that you can the palm of your hand to release the wheel from
re-install it properly. Incorrect installation the front fork.
can afect the braking, shifting and handling
characteristics of the bicycle. B. Installing a Disc Brake or Rim Brake Front Wheel

CAUTION
CAUTION
If your bike is equipped with a front disc
If your bike has a disc brake, exercise care brake, be careful not to damage the disc,
in touching the rotor or caliper. Disc rotors caliper or brake pads when re-inserting
have sharp edges, and both rotor and caliper the disc into the caliper. Never activate a
can get very hot during use and create a risk disc brake’s control lever unless the disc is
of injury. correctly inserted in the caliper. Improper
disc brake adjustment could result in injury.
A. Removing a Disc Brake or Rim Brake Front See also Section 4.C.
Wheel
(1) If your bike has rim brakes, disengage the
brake’s quick-release mechanism to increase the (1) If your bike has quick-release front wheel
clearance between the tire and the brake pads retention, move the lever so that it curves away
(See Section 4.C igs. 10–13). from the wheel (ig. 7b). This is the OPEN position.
If your bike has through-bolt or bolt-on front
wheel retention, go to the next step.

23
PART I
(2) With the steering fork facing forward, insert (5) If you disengaged the brake quick-release
the wheel between the fork blades so that the mechanism in Section 4.A.3.A.1 above, re-engage
axle seats irmly at the top of the fork dropouts. it to restore correct brake pad-to-rim clearance.
If your bike has a clip-on type secondary (6) Spin the wheel to make sure that it is centered
retention device, engage it. in the frame and clears the brake pads; then
(3) If you have a quick-release: holding the cam lever squeeze the brake lever and make sure that the
in the ADJUST position with your right hand, brakes are operating correctly.
tighten the tension adjusting nut with your
C. Removing a Disc Brake or Rim Brake
left hand until it is inger tight against the fork
dropout (ig. 7a).
Rear Wheel
(4) While pushing the wheel irmly to the top of the (1) If you have a multi-speed bike with a derailleur
slots in the fork dropouts, and at the same time gear system: shift the rear derailleur to high gear
centering the wheel rim in the fork: (the smallest, outermost rear sprocket).
(a) With a quick-release system, move the cam lever If you have an internal gear rear hub, consult
upwards and swing it into the CLOSED position your local REI store or the hub manufacturer’s
(ig. 7a and ig. 7b). The lever should now be instructions before attempting to remove the
parallel to the fork blade and curved toward rear wheel.
the wheel. To apply enough clamping force, you If you have a single-speed bike with rim or disc
should have to wrap your ingers around the fork brake, go to step (4) below.
blade for leverage, and the lever should leave a
(2) If your bike has rim brakes, disengage the
clear imprint in the palm of your hand.
brake’s quick-release mechanism to increase the
(b) With a through-bolt or bolt-on system, tighten clearance between the wheel rim and the brake
the fasteners to the torque speciications in the pads (see Section 4.C, igs. 10–13).
hub manufacturer’s instructions.
NOTE: If, on a quick-release system, the lever cannot
be pushed all the way to a position parallel to the fork
blade, return the lever to the OPEN position. Then
turn the tension adjusting nut counterclockwise one-
quarter turn and try tightening the lever again.

24
(3) On a derailleur gear system, pull the derailleur (5) On a single-speed or an internal gear hub, replace
body back with your right hand. the chain on the chainring; pull the wheel back in
(4) With a quick-release mechanism, move the quick- the dropouts so that it is straight in the frame and
release lever to the OPEN position (ig. 7b). With the chain has about 1/4 inch of up-and-down
a through-bolt or bolt-on mechanism, loosen the play.
fastener(s) with an appropriate wrench, lock lever (6) With a quick-release system, move the cam lever
or integral lever; then push the wheel forward far upwards and swing it into the CLOSED position
enough to be able to remove the chain from the (ig. 7a and ig. 7b). The lever should now be
rear sprocket. parallel to the seat stay or chain stay and curved
(5) Lift the rear wheel of the ground a few inches toward the wheel. To apply enough clamping
and remove it from the rear dropouts. force, you should have to wrap your ingers
around the seat stay or chainstay for leverage,
D. Installing a Disc Brake or Rim Brake and the lever should leave a clear imprint in the
Rear Wheel palm of your hand.
(7) With a through-bolt or bolt-on system, tighten the
CAUTION fasteners to the torque speciications in Appendix
D or the hub manufacturer’s instructions.
If your bike is equipped with a rear disc brake,
be careful not to damage the disc, caliper or NOTE: If, on a quick-release system, the lever
brake pads when re-inserting the disc into the cannot be pushed all the way to a position parallel
caliper. Never activate a disc brake’s control to the seat stay or chain stay, return the lever to
lever unless the disc is correctly inserted in the OPEN position. Then turn the tension adjusting
the caliper to avoid risk of injury. nut counterclockwise one-quarter turn and try
tightening the lever again.
(1) With a quick-release system, move the cam lever
to the OPEN position (see ig. 7a and ig. 7b). The WARNING
lever should be on the side of the wheel opposite
the derailleur and freewheel sprockets. SECURELY CLAMPING THE WHEEL WITH A
(2) On a derailleur bike, make sure that the rear QUICK-RELEASE RETENTION DEVICE TAKES
derailleur is still in its outermost, high gear, CONSIDERABLE FORCE. RIDING WITH AN
position; then pull the derailleur body back with IMPROPERLY SECURED WHEEL CAN ALLOW
your right hand. Put the chain on top of the THE WHEEL TO WOBBLE OR FALL OFF THE
smallest freewheel sprocket. BICYCLE, WHICH CAN CAUSE SERIOUS INJURY
OR DEATH .
(3) On single-speed, remove the chain from the front
sprocket, so that you have plenty of slack in the See also WARNING in PART I, Section 4.A:
chain. Put the chain on the rear wheel sprocket. Wheels.
(4) Then, insert the wheel into the frame dropouts
and pull it all the way in to the dropouts.

25
PART I
(8) If you disengaged the brake quick-release Adjusting the Seatpost Quick-Release
mechanism in Section 4.A.3.C.2 above, re-engage Mechanism
it to restore correct brake pad-to-rim clearance.
The action of the quick-release squeezes the seat
(9) Spin the wheel to make sure that it is centered
collar around the seatpost to hold the seatpost
in the frame and clears the brake pads; then
securely in place. The amount of clamping force is
squeeze the brake lever and make sure that the
controlled by the tension-adjusting nut. Turning the
brakes are operating correctly.
tension-adjusting nut clockwise while keeping the
cam lever from rotating increases clamping force;
4.B. - SEATPOST QUICK-RELEASE turning it counterclockwise while keeping the cam
CLAMP lever from rotating reduces clamping force. Less than
half a turn of the tension adjusting nut can make the
Some bikes are equipped with a quick-release diference between safe and unsafe clamping force.
seatpost binder. The seatpost quick-release binder
If you can fully close the cam lever without wrapping
works exactly like the one on a wheel (Section 4.A.2).
your ingers around the seatpost or a frame tube for
leverage, and the lever does not leave a clear imprint
WARNING in the palm of your hand, the tension is insuicient.
Open the lever; turn the tension adjusting nut
RIDING WITH AN IMPROPERLY TIGHTENED clockwise a quarter turn; then try again.
SEATPOST CAN ALLOW THE SADDLE TO
TURN OR MOVE AND CAUSE YOU TO LOSE
CONTROL AND FALL WITH RISK OF SERIOUS
INJURY OR DEATH. THEREFORE:
1. ASK YOUR LOCAL REI STORE TO HELP YOU
MAKE SURE YOU KNOW HOW TO CORRECTLY
CLAMP YOUR SEATPOST.
2. UNDERSTAND AND APPLY THE CORRECT
TECHNIQUE FOR CLAMPING YOUR
SEATPOST.
3. BEFORE YOU RIDE THE BIKE, FIRST CHECK
THAT THE SEATPOST IS SECURELY CLAMPED.

26
4.C - BRAKES 1. Brake Controls and Features
It’s very important to your safety that you learn and
There are three general types of bicycle brakes: rim remember which brake lever controls which brake on
brakes, which operate by squeezing the wheel rim your bike.
between two brake pads; disc brakes, which operate
by squeezing a hub-mounted disc between two Make sure that your hands can reach and squeeze the
brake pads; and internal hub brakes. All three can brake levers comfortably. If your hands are too small
be operated by way of a handlebar-mounted lever. to operate the levers comfortably, consult your local
On some models of bicycle, the internal hub brake REI store before riding the bike. The lever reach may
is operated by pedaling backwards. This is called a be adjustable; or you may need a diferent brake lever
Coaster Brake and is described below in Section 4.C.3. design.
Most rim brakes have some form of quick-release
WARNING mechanism to allow the brake pads to clear the tire
when a wheel is removed or reinstalled. When the
BRAKES ARE A CRITICAL SYSTEM FOR THE SAFE brake quick release is in the open position, the brakes
OPERATION OF YOUR BICYCLE. RIDING WITH are inoperative. Ask your local REI store to make sure
IMPROPERLY ADJUSTED OR WORN BRAKES CAN that you understand the way the brake quick release
RESULT IN LOSS OF CONTROL OR CRASHES THAT works on your bike (see igs. 10–13) and check each
CAN CAUSE IN SERIOUS INJURY OR DEATH. time to make sure both brakes work correctly before
you get on the bike.

2. How Brakes Work

The braking action of a bicycle is a function of the
friction between the brake surfaces—usually the
brake pads and the wheel rim. To make sure that you
have maximum friction available, keep your rims, disc
rotors, and brake pads clean and free of lubricants,
waxes or polishes.

27
PART I
Brakes are designed to control your speed, not just to Two keys to efective speed control and safe stopping
stop the bike. Maximum braking force for each wheel are controlling wheel lockup and weight transfer. This
occurs at the point just before the wheel “locks up” weight transfer is even more pronounced if your bike
(stops rotating) and starts to skid. Once the tire skids, has a front suspension fork. Front suspension “dips”
you actually lose most of your stopping force and all under braking, increasing the weight transfer (see
directional control. You need to practice slowing and also Section 4.F). Practice braking and weight transfer
stopping smoothly without locking up a wheel. The techniques where there is no traic or other hazards
technique is called progressive brake modulation. and distractions.
Instead of jerking the brake lever to the position
where you think you’ll generate appropriate braking Everything changes when you ride on loose surfaces
force, squeeze the lever, progressively increasing or in wet weather. Tire adhesion is reduced, so the
the braking force. If you feel the wheel begin to lock wheels have less cornering and braking traction and
up, release pressure just a little to keep the wheel can lock up with less brake force. Moisture or dirt on
rotating just short of lockup. the brake pads reduces their ability to grip. The way
to maintain control on loose or wet surfaces is to go
It’s important to develop a feel for the amount of more slowly.
brake lever pressure required for each wheel at
diferent speeds and on diferent surfaces. To better
understand this, experiment a little by walking your
bike and applying diferent amounts of pressure to
each brake lever until the wheel locks.
When you apply one or both brakes, the bike begins
to slow, but your body wants to continue at the
speed at which it was going. This causes a transfer of
weight to the front wheel (or, under heavy braking,
around the front wheel hub, which could send you
lying over the handlebars).
A wheel with more weight on it will accept greater
brake pressure before lockup; a wheel with less
weight will lock up with less brake pressure. So, as you
apply brakes and your weight is transferred forward,
you need to shift your body toward the rear of the
bike, to transfer weight back on to the rear wheel;
and at the same time, you need to both decrease rear
braking and increase front braking force. This is even
more important on descents, because descents shift
weight forward.

28
 OPEN

Figure 10. Figure 12.

OPEN

OPEN

Figure 11. Figure 13.

29
PART I
3. Coaster Brakes

Figure 14.
a) How the coaster brake works
The coaster brake is a sealed mechanism which is
a part of the bicycle’s rear wheel hub. The brake
is activated by reversing the rotation of the pedal
cranks (indicated by arrow in ig. 14 above). Start with
the pedal cranks in a nearly horizontal position, with
the front pedal in about the 4 o’clock position, and
apply downward foot pressure on the pedal that is
to the rear. About 1/8 turn rotation will activate the
brake. The more downward pressure you apply, the
more braking force, up to the point where the rear
wheel stops rotating and begins to skid.
Before riding, make sure that the brake is working
properly. If it is not working properly, have the bicycle
checked by your local REI store before you ride it. If
your bike has only a coaster brake, ride conservatively.
A single rear brake does not have the stopping power
of front-and-rear brake systems.
b) Adjusting your coaster brake
Coaster brake service and adjustment requires
special tools and special knowledge. Do not attempt
to disassemble or service your coaster brake. Take
the bicycle to your local REI store for coaster brake
service.

30
4.D - SHIFTING GEARS Whether upshifting or downshifting, the bicycle
derailleur system design requires that the drive
Your multi-speed bicycle will have a derailleur chain be moving forward and be under at least some
drivetrain (see 1. below), an internal gear hub tension. A derailleur will shift only if you are pedaling
drivetrain (see 2. below) or, in some special cases, a forward.
combination of the two.

1. How a derailleur drivetrain works CAUTION

If your bicycle has a derailleur drivetrain, the gear-
changing mechanism will have: Never move the shifter while pedaling
backward, nor pedal backwards immediately
• a rear cassette or freewheel after having moved the shifter, as this may
• a rear derailleur increase the risk of injury. This could jam
the chain and cause serious damage to
• usually a front derailleur the bicycle.
• one or two shifters
• one, two or three front sprockets called
b) Shifting the rear derailleur
chainrings
• a drive chain The rear derailleur is controlled by the right shifter.
a) Shifting gears The function of the rear derailleur is to move the drive
chain from one gear sprocket to another. The smaller
There are several diferent types and styles of shifting
sprockets on the gear cluster produce higher gear
controls: levers, twist grips, triggers, combination
ratios. Pedaling in the higher gears requires greater
shift/brake controls, push-buttons, and so on. Ask
pedaling efort, but takes you a greater distance
your local REI store to explain the type of shifting
with each revolution of the pedal cranks. The larger
controls that are on your bike, and to show you how
sprockets produce lower gear ratios. Using them
they work.
requires less pedaling efort, but takes you a shorter
The vocabulary of shifting can be pretty confusing. distance with each pedal crank revolution. Moving
A downshift is a shift to a “lower” or “slower” gear, the chain from a smaller sprocket of the gear cluster
one which is easier to pedal. An upshift is a shift to to a larger sprocket results in a downshift. Moving
a “higher” or “faster”, harder-to-pedal gear. What’s the chain from a larger sprocket to a smaller sprocket
confusing is that what’s happening at the front results in an upshift. In order for the derailleur to
derailleur is the opposite of what’s happening at move the chain from one sprocket to another, the
the rear derailleur. Please read the instructions on rider must be pedaling forward.
Shifting the Rear Derailleur and Shifting the Front
c) Shifting the front derailleur
Derailleur, below.
The front derailleur, which is controlled by the left
For example, you can select a gear which will make
shifter, shifts the chain between the larger and
pedaling easier on a hill (make a downshift) in one
smaller chainrings. Shifting the chain onto a smaller
of two ways: shift the chain down the gear “steps” to
chainring makes pedaling easier (a downshift).
a smaller gear at the front, or up the gear “steps” to a
Shifting to a larger chainring makes pedaling harder
larger gear at the rear. So, at the rear gear cluster, what
(an upshift).
is called a downshift looks like an upshift. The way
to keep things straight is to remember that shifting
the chain in towards the centerline of the bike is for
accelerating and climbing and is called a downshift.
Moving the chain out or away from the centerline of
the bike is for speed and is called an upshift.

31
PART I
d) Which gear should I be in? e) What if it won’t shift gears?
The combination of largest rear and smallest front If moving the shift control one click repeatedly fails
gears (ig. 15) is for the steepest hills. The smallest to result in a smooth shift to the next gear, chances
rear and largest front combination is for the greatest are that the mechanism is out of adjustment. Take the
speed. It is not necessary to shift gears in sequence. bike to your local REI store to have it adjusted.
Instead, ind the “starting gear” that is right for your
level of ability—a gear that is hard enough for quick 2. How an internal gear hub drivetrain works
acceleration but easy enough to let you start from If your bicycle has an internal gear hub drivetrain, the
a stop without wobbling—and experiment with gear changing mechanism will consist of:
upshifting and downshifting to get a feel for the
diferent gear combinations. At irst, practice shifting • a 3-, 5-, 7-, 8-, 12-speed or possibly an ininitely
where there are no obstacles, hazards or other variable internal gear hub
traic, until you’ve built up your conidence. Learn to • one, or sometimes two shifters
anticipate the need to shift, and shift to a lower gear • one or two control cables
before the hill gets too steep. If you have diiculties
• one front sprocket called a chainring
with shifting, the problem could be mechanical
adjustment. See your local REI store for help. • a drive chain
a) Shifting internal gear hub gears
Shifting with an internal gear hub drivetrain is simply
a matter of moving the shifter to the indicated
position for the desired gear. After you have moved
the shifter to the gear position of your choice, ease
the pressure on the pedals for an instant to allow the
hub to complete the shift.
b) Which gear should I be in?
The numerically lowest gear (1) is for the steepest
hills. The numerically largest gear is for the greatest
speed.

Figure 15.
A. Hills B. Greatest Speed
1. Smallest front 4. Largest front
2. Chain 5. Smallest rear
3. Largest rear

32
Shifting from an easier, “slower” gear (like 1) to a attention and cause you to lose control and fall,
harder, “faster” gear (like 2 or 3) is called an upshift. increasing the risk of serious injury or death.
Shifting from a harder, “faster” gear to an easier, Practice the use of toe-clips and straps where
“slower” gear is called a downshift. It is not necessary there are no obstacles, hazards or traic. Keep
to shift gears in sequence. Instead, ind the “starting the straps loose, and don’t tighten them until
gear” for the conditions—a gear that is hard enough your technique and conidence in getting in and
for quick acceleration but easy enough to let you out of the pedals warrants it. Never ride in traic
start from a stop without wobbling—and experiment with your toe straps tight.
with upshifting and downshifting to get a feel for the
diferent gears. At irst, practice shifting where there 3. Clipless pedals (sometimes called “step-in”
are no obstacles, hazards or other traic, until you’ve pedals) are another means to keep feet securely
built up your conidence. Learn to anticipate the in the correct position for maximum pedaling
need to shift, and shift to a lower gear before the hill eiciency. They have a plate, called a “cleat,” on
gets too steep. If you have diiculties with shifting, the sole of the shoe, which clicks into a mating
the problem could be a mechanical adjustment. See spring-loaded ixture on the pedal.
your local REI store for help.
c) What if it won’t shift gears?
CAUTION
If moving the shift control one click repeatedly fails Getting into and out of pedals with toe-clips
to result in a smooth shift to the next gear, chances and straps requires skill which can only be
are that the mechanism is out of adjustment. Take the acquired with practice.
bike to your local REI store to have it adjusted.

4.E - PEDALS
1. Some bicycles come equipped with pedals that
have sharp and potentially dangerous surfaces.
These surfaces are designed to add safety by
increasing grip between the rider’s shoe and
the pedal. If your bicycle has this type of high-
performance pedal, you must take extra care
to avoid serious injury from the pedals’ sharp
surfaces. Based on your riding style or skill level,
you may prefer a less aggressive pedal design, or
chose to ride with shin pads. Your local REI store can
show you a number of options and make suitable
recommendations.
2. Toe-clips and straps are a means to keep feet
correctly positioned and engaged with the
pedals. The toe-clip positions the ball of the foot
over the pedal spindle, which gives maximum
pedaling power. The toe strap, when tightened,
keeps the foot engaged throughout the rotation
cycle of the pedal. While toe-clips and straps give
some beneit with any kind of shoe, they work
most efectively with cycling shoes designed for
use with toe-clips. Your local REI store can explain
how toe-clips and straps work. Shoes with deep
treaded soles or welts which might allow the foot
to be trapped should not be used with toe-clips
and straps.
Until it becomes a relex action, the technique
requires concentration which can distract your

33
PART I
They only engage or disengage with a very speciic 4.F - BICYCLE SUSPENSION
motion that must be practiced until it becomes
instinctive. Clipless pedals require shoes and cleats Many bicycles are equipped with suspension
that are compatible with the make and model pedal systems. There are many diferent types of suspension
being used. systems—too many to deal with individually in this
manual. If your bicycle has a suspension system of
Many clipless pedals are designed to allow the rider
any kind, be sure to read and follow the suspension
to adjust the amount of force needed to engage or
manufacturer’s setup and service instructions. If you
disengage the foot. Follow the pedal manufacturer’s
do not have the manufacturer’s instructions, see your
instructions, or ask your local REI store to show you
local REI store or contact the manufacturer.
how to make this adjustment. Use the easiest setting
until engaging and disengaging becomes a relex
action, but always make sure that there is suicient WARNING
tension to prevent unintended release of your foot
from the pedal. FAILURE TO MAINTAIN, CHECK AND
PROPERLY ADJUST THE SUSPENSION SYSTEM
MAY RESULT IN SUSPENSION MALFUNCTION,
CAUTION WHICH MAY CAUSE YOU TO LOSE CONTROL
AND FALL WITH RISK OF SERIOUS INJURY OR
Clipless pedals are intendend for use with
DEATH.
shoes speciically made to it them and are
designed to irmly keep the foot engaged
with the pedal. If your bike has suspension, the increased speed you
Do not use shoes which do not engage the may develop also increases your risk of injury. For
pedals correctly, as you will increase the risk example, when braking, the front of a suspended
of injury. bike dips. You could lose control and fall if you do not
have experience with this system. Learn to handle
your suspension system safely. See also Section 4.C.
Practice is required to learn to engage and disengage
Never change suspension adjustment unless you
the foot safely. Until engaging and disengaging the
are thoroughly familiar with the suspension system
foot becomes a relex action, the technique requires
manufacturer’s instructions and recommendations,
concentration which can distract your attention and
and always check for changes in the handling
cause you to lose control and fall. Practice engaging
and braking characteristics of the bicycle after a
and disengaging clipless pedals in a place where
suspension adjustment by taking a careful test ride
there are no obstacles, hazards or traic; and be sure
in a hazard-free area.
to follow the pedal manufacturer’s setup and service
instructions. If you do not have the manufacturer’s
instructions, see your local REI store or contact the WARNING
manufacturer.
CHANGING SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENT CAN
CHANGE THE HANDLING AND BRAKING
CHARACTERISTICS OF YOUR BICYCLE WITH
RISK OF SERIOUS INJURY OR DEATH.

34
Suspension can increase control and comfort by
allowing the wheels to better follow the terrain. This
enhanced capability may allow you to ride faster;
but you must not confuse the enhanced capabilities
of the bicycle with your own capabilities as a rider.
Increasing your skill will take time and practice.
Proceed carefully until you have learned to handle
the full capabilities of your bike.

CAUTION
Not all bicycles can be safely retroitted with
some types of suspension systems. Before
retroitting a bicycle with any suspension,
check with the bicycle’s manufacturer to make
sure that what you want to do is compatible
with the bicycle’s design. Failing to do so can
result in catastrophic frame failure with risk
of injury.

4.G - TIRES AND TUBES Figure 16.

1. Tires The best and safest way to inlate a bicycle tire to the
Bicycle tires are available in many designs and correct pressure is with a bicycle pump that has a
speciications, ranging from general-purpose designs built-in pressure gauge.
to tires designed to perform best under very speciic Gas station air hoses and other air compressors are
weather or terrain conditions. If, once you’ve gained not made for bicycle tires. They move a large volume
experience with your new bike, you feel that a of air very rapidly, and will raise the pressure in your
diferent tire might better suit your riding needs, tire very rapidly, which could cause the tube to
your local REI store can help you select the most explode and increase the risk of injury.
appropriate design.
The size, pressure rating, and on some high-
performance tires the speciic recommended use, are
CAUTION
marked on the sidewall of the tire (see ig. 16). The
There is a safety risk in using gas station air
part of this information that is most important to you
hoses or other air compressors.
is tire pressure.
Exceeding the recommended maximum pressure
Tire pressure is given either as maximum pressure
may blow the tire of the rim, which could cause
or as a pressure range. How a tire performs under
damage to the bike and injury to the rider and
diferent terrain or weather conditions depends
bystanders.
largely on tire pressure. Inlating the tire to near its
maximum recommended pressure gives the lowest
CAUTION rolling resistance; but also produces the harshest ride.
High pressures work best on smooth, dry pavement.
Never inlate a tire beyond the maximum
pressure marked on the tire’s sidewall.

35
PART I
Very low pressures, at the bottom of the recommended 2. Tube Valves
pressure range, give the best performance on smooth, There are primarily two kinds of bicycle tube valves:
slick terrain such as hard-packed clay, and on deep, The Schrader valve and the Presta valve. The bicycle
loose surfaces such as deep, dry sand. pump you use must have the itting appropriate to
Tire pressure that is too low for your weight and the the valve stems on your bicycle.
riding conditions can cause a puncture of the tube by The Schrader valve (ig. 17) is like the valve on a car
allowing the tire to deform suiciently to pinch the tire. To inlate a Schrader valve tube, remove the valve
inner tube between the rim and the riding surface. cap and clamp the pump itting onto the end of the
Pencil-type automotive tire gauges can be inaccurate valve stem. To let air out of a Schrader valve, depress
and should not be relied upon for consistent, accurate the pin in the end of the valve stem with the end of a
pressure readings. Instead, use a high-quality dial key or other appropriate object.
gauge to avoid risk of injury. The Presta valve (ig. 17) has a narrower diameter
Ask your local REI store to recommend the best tire and is only found on bicycle tubes. To inlate a Presta
pressure for the kind of riding you will most often valve tube using a Presta-headed bicycle pump,
do, and have the local REI store inlate your tires to remove the valve cap; unscrew (counterclockwise)
that pressure. Then, check inlation as described in the valve stem lock nut; and push down on the valve
Section 1.C so you’ll know how correctly inlated tires stem to free it up. Then push the pump head on to
should look and feel when you don’t have access to the valve head, and inlate. To inlate a Presta valve
a gauge. It is important to check your tire pressures with a Schrader pump itting, you’ll need a Presta
before every ride. adapter (available at your local REI store) which
screws onto the valve stem once you’ve freed up the
Some special high-performance tires have valve. The adapter its into the Schrader pump itting.
unidirectional treads: their tread pattern is designed Close the valve after inlation. To let air out of a Presta
to work better in one direction than in the other. The valve, open up the valve stem lock nut and depress
sidewall marking of a unidirectional tire will have an the valve stem.
arrow showing the correct rotation direction. If your
bike has unidirectional tires, be sure that they are We highly recommend that you be familiar with
mounted to rotate in the correct direction. tire and tube repair and that you carry the items
necessary for common roadside repairs. This may
include a spare inner tube, patch kit, lat-ixing
sealant, wrenches, a pump, tire levers and other
items. Consult with your local REI store as to what
you should be prepared for.

36
 Schrader valve

Valve Stem
Locknut
Presta valve

Figure 17.

37
PART I
SECTION 5. SERVICE If you want to learn to do major service and repair
work on your bike, you have three options:
1. REI will provide at the time of sale copies of
the manufacturer’s installation and service
Technological advances have made bicycles and instructions for the components on your bike.
bicycle components more complex, and the pace of If you would like more information, you may also
innovation is increasing. contact the component manufacturer.
It is impossible for this manual to provide all the 2. Join a cycling club or group, utilize online
information required to properly repair and/or resources and/or look for a good book on the
maintain your bicycle. topic of repair.
3. Research the availability of bicycle repair courses
In order to help minimize the chances of an accident
in your area.
and possible injury, it is critical that you have any
repair or maintenance which is not speciically We recommend that you ask someone with
described in this manual performed by your local experience to check the quality of your work the irst
REI store. Equally important is that your individual time you work on something and before you ride the
maintenance requirements will be determined by bike. Since that will require the time of a mechanic,
everything from your riding style to geographic there may be a modest charge for this service.
location.
We also recommend that you ask your local REI
Consult your local REI store for help in determining store for guidance on what spare parts would be
your maintenance requirements. appropriate for you to have once you have learned
how to replace such parts when they require
Many bicycle service and repair tasks require special replacement.
knowledge and tools. Do not begin any adjustments
or service on your bicycle until you have learned
from your local REI store how to properly complete
them. Improper adjustment or service may result in
damage to the bicycle or reduced functionality or
performance.

38
5.A - SERVICE INTERVALS 4. AFTER EVERY LONG OR HARD RIDE OR AFTER
EVERY 10 TO 20 HOURS OF RIDING:
Some service and maintenance can and should be • Squeeze the front brake and rock the bike forward
performed by the owner, and require no special and back. Everything feel solid? If you feel a clunk
tools or knowledge beyond what is presented in this with each forward or backward movement of the
manual. bike, you probably have a loose headset. Have
The following are examples of the type of service your local REI store or another qualiied bike
you should perform yourself. All other service, mechanic check it.
maintenance and repair should be performed at your • Lift the front wheel of the ground and swing it
local REI store, or in a properly equipped facility by from side to side. Feel smooth? If you feel any
a qualiied bicycle mechanic using the correct tools binding or roughness in the steering, you may
and procedures speciied by the manufacturer. have a tight headset. Have your local REI store or
another qualiied bike mechanic check it.
1. BREAK-IN PERIOD: Your bike will last longer and
work better if you break it in. Control cables and • Grab one pedal and rock it toward and away from
wheel spokes may stretch or “seat” when a new the center line of the bike; then do the same with
bike is irst used and may require readjustment the other pedal. Anything feel loose? If so, have
by your local REI store or another qualiied bike your local REI store or another qualiied bike
mechanic. Your Mechanical Safety Check (Section mechanic check it.
1.C) will help you identify some things that need • Take a look at the brake pads. Starting to look
readjustment. But even if everything seems ine worn or not hitting the wheel rim squarely? Time
to you, it’s best to take your bike back to the local to have them adjusted or replaced.
REI store or another qualiied bike mechanic for • Carefully check the control cables and cable
a checkup. REI stores typically suggest you bring housings. Any rust? Kinks? Fraying? If so, have
the bike in for a 30-day checkup. Another way them replaced.
to judge when it’s time for the irst checkup is
• Squeeze each adjoining pair of spokes on either
to bring the bike in after three to ive hours of
side of each wheel between your thumb and
hard of-road use, or about 10 to 15 hours of on-
index inger. Do they all feel about the same?
road or more casual of-road use. But if you think
If any feel loose, have the wheel checked for
something is wrong with the bike, take it to your
tension and trueness.
local REI store or another qualiied bike mechanic
before riding it again. • Check to make sure that all parts and accessories
are still secure, and tighten any that are not.
2. BEFORE EVERY RIDE: Mechanical Safety Check
(Section 1.C) • Check the frame, particularly in the areas around
all tube joints; the handlebars; the stem; and
3. AFTER EVERY LONG OR HARD RIDE: Clean the
the seatpost for any deep scratches, cracks or
bike and lightly oil the chain. Wipe of excess oil.
discoloration. These are signs of stress-caused
Lubrication is a function of climate. Talk to your
fatigue and indicate that a part is at the end of
local REI store or another qualiied bike mechanic
its useful life and needs to be replaced. See also
about the best lubricants and the recommended
PART II, Section D: Materials and Inspection.
lubrication frequency for your area.

39
PART I
5. AS REQUIRED: If either brake lever 5.B - IF YOUR BICYCLE
fails the Mechanical Safety Check
(Section 1.C), don’t ride the bike. Have your SUSTAINS AN IMPACT
local REI store or another qualiied bike mechanic
Check your bike for damage and take it to your
check the brakes. If the chain won’t shift smoothly
local REI store for a thorough check.
and quietly from gear to gear, the derailleur is out
of adjustment. See your local REI store or another Carbon composite components, including frames,
qualiied bike mechanic. wheels, handlebars, stems, cranksets, brakes, etc.
6. EVERY 25 (HARD OFF-ROAD) TO 50 (ON-ROAD) that have sustained an impact must not be ridden
HOURS OF RIDING: Take your bike to your local until they have been disassembled and thoroughly
REI store or another qualiied bike mechanic for a inspected by a qualiied mechanic.
complete checkup. See also PART II, Section D.5: Bicycle Lifespan.
7. Scratches, cracks, fraying and discoloration are
signs of stress-caused fatigue and indicate that a
part is at the end of its useful life and needs to be WARNING
replaced. While the materials and workmanship
of your bicycle or of individual components may A CRASH OR OTHER IMPACT CAN PUT
be covered by a warranty for a speciied period EXTRAORDINARY STRESS ON BICYCLE
of time by the manufacturer, this is no guarantee COMPONENTS, CAUSING THEM TO FATIGUE
that the product will last forever. PREMATURELY. COMPONENTS SUFFERING
FROM STRESS FATIGUE CAN FAIL SUDDENLY
Please be sure to read PART II, Section D.3:
AND CATASTROPHICALLY, CAUSING LOSS OF
Understanding Components and PART II, Section
CONTROL, SERIOUS INJURY OR DEATH.
D.5: Bicycle Lifespan.

WARNING
LIKE ANY MECHANICAL DEVICE, A BICYCLE
AND ITS COMPONENTS ARE SUBJECT TO
WEAR AND STRESS. DIFFERENT MATERIALS
AND MECHANISMS WEAR OR FATIGUE FROM
STRESS AT DIFFERENT RATES AND HAVE
DIFFERENT LIFE CYCLES.
IF A COMPONENT’S LIFE CYCLE IS EXCEEDED,
THE COMPONENT CAN SUDDENLY AND
CATASTROPHICALLY FAIL, WITH RISK OF
SERIOUS INJURY OR DEATH.

40
41
PART II
SECTION A. IMPORTANT A.1 - BICYCLING-INHERENT RISK
SAFETY INFORMATION
WARNING
BICYCLING IS AN ACTIVE SPORT WITH
A Wide Range of Bicycling Injuries Are INHERENT RISK, AND THE SITUATIONS YOU
Possible ENCOUNTER WHILE RIDING EXPOSE YOU TO
THE RISK OF SERIOUS INJURY OR DEATH.
Many hazards are described, and we have attempted
to explain how to avoid or minimize the dangers.
Because any fall can result in serious injury, paralysis The risk cannot be taken away or eliminated. You
or death, we do not repeat the warning of these can minimize risk by doing the following:
potential consequences every time we call attention
to a hazard. Some low-speed falls may result in • Bicycle training and practice
serious injuries, and some wild, high-speed falls may • Progressive step-by-step learning of new cycling
result in none. The reality is that the exact nature skills
of the consequences of a fall or accident are not • The good judgment to ride in control
predictable.
• Bicycle experience; riding with experienced
Bicycles Cannot Protect You riders
Bicycles are lightweight, human-powered vehicles. • Use of a proper bicycle helmet and appropriate
Unlike a car, much like a motorcycle, there is no protective gear
restraint system for your body, no protective structure • Reading and thinking about this entire owner’s
around your body. Crash worthiness cannot be a manual; all owner’s manual supplements and
design criterion. A rider sits on a bicycle and can be instructions that came with your bicycle are
easily thrown of for many reasons, including overly essential to your safety and part of the learning
hard use of the front brakes (See PART I, Section 4.C: process
Brakes) or striking an obstacle.
• Riding within your own unique capabilities and
considering the conditions where you are riding

42
A.2 - WARNING LABEL A.3 - RIDING IN TRAFFIC,
We urge you to locate the warning label on your
COMMUTING
bike. It contains important information that you and
anyone else who rides your bike should read and
follow. WARNING
Do not remove it. If yours is damaged or missing,
RIDING IN TRAFFIC IS HAZARDOUS AND CAN
contact REI for a no-charge replacement.
RESULT IN SERIOUS INJURY OR DEATH.

! WARNING ! As noted elsewhere in this manual, you must

To REDUCE the risk of learn and obey local traic laws. Riding in traic is
SERIOUS INJURY or DEATH: hazardous. We cannot teach you about all of these
• WEAR YOUR HELMET – Always. hazards.
• INSPECT YOUR BIKE – Before each
ride, and after any crash or impact.
Here are just several important topics you must
Never ride a bike with any damage or consider: Traic laws, accidents, intersections,
cracks.
commuting and utility cycling, where to ride on
• READ AND FOLLOW – The owners
manual and supplements. roadway, changing lanes in traic, riding at night,
• INTENDED USE – This bike has been
improving your odds with safety, lighting, and
designed and tested to be used as
labeled. See owners manual for
weather equipment.
additional information.
Many bike clubs conduct training programs and
More information at 800.426.4840
www.rei.com workshops that focus on these and other safe-cycling
topics. Contact REI or your local bicycle retailer. Seek
Do not remove this label
the advice of an experienced bicycle commuter in
your community.

Suitable for
road riding
(only)

Weight Limit 250 pounds

Your Warning label may look diferent depending

on bike styles.

43
PART II
A.4 - RIDING AT NIGHT, Mountain Biking at Night
Mountain biking at night is risky. Take the challenges
DUSK, DAWN outlined in Part II Section C and add another level
of diiculty and risk. Seeing the terrain is much
more diicult at night. Mountain biking at night is
WARNING only for skilled mountain bikers, on familiar terrain,
with excellent lighting systems, riding with other
RIDING AT NIGHT/DUSK OR AT DAWN IS VERY skilled mountain bikers, and riding cautiously.
HAZARDOUS AND CAN RESULT IN SERIOUS Adding Lighting
INJURY OR DEATH. REFLECTORS ARE NOT A SUBSTITUTE FOR
PROPER LIGHTS. IT IS YOUR RESPONSIBILITY
Avoid riding at night. If you choose to ride at night: TO EQUIP YOUR BICYCLE WITH ALL NATIONAL,
• Install front and rear lights. STATE AND LOCALLY MANDATED LIGHTS. Riding
• Install a blinker or strobe light. at dawn, at dusk, at night or at other times of poor
visibility without a bicycle lighting system that
• Check your local, state or federal laws as lights meets local and state laws and without relectors is
may be required for riding at dusk, night, or dangerous and may result in serious injury or death.
dawn.
• Wear relective clothing.
• Stay alert; others may not see you.
• Make sure your bicycle is equipped with all
required relectors, lights, strobes or blinkers.

Required Relectors
The location and type of each relector on your bike
is required by the U.S. Consumer Product Safety
Commission (CPSC). Your Novara bike must be
delivered with: 1. A front-mounted, forward-facing
relector 2. A rear-mounted, rear-facing relector, 3.
A spoke-mounted relector on each wheel, 4. Front-
and rear-facing relectors on the left and right pedals.
DO NOT REMOVE, BLOCK OR COVER REFLECTORS.
Much Higher Risks at Night
The risk of an accident, particularly being struck
by a motor vehicle, is much higher at night. If
you choose to accept this higher risk, improve
your odds with a proper lighting system, strobe
light, light-colored relective clothing and
careful riding. Seek the advice of an experienced
bicycle commuter in your community.

44
A.5 - REFINISHING A.6 - PHYSICAL MODIFICATION

WARNING WARNING
REPAINTING AND/OR REFINISHING YOUR DO NOT PHYSICALLY MODIFY YOUR BIKE
BIKE IS A MAJOR MODIFICATION THAT CAN FRAME OR COMPONENTS IN ANY WAY.
CAUSE AND/OR CONCEAL DAMAGE LEADING MODIFICATIONS CAN CAUSE DAMAGE
TO FAILURE AND ACCIDENTS WITH RISK OF LEADING TO FAILURE AND ACCIDENTS WITH
SERIOUS INJURY OR DEATH. RISK OF SERIOUS INJURY OR DEATH.

We understand that you may have an interest in • Don’t sandblast, shot blast or glass bead.
repainting or reinishing your bike. Please do not, as • Don’t use any coarse sandpaper.
the potential risks are great. Each type of material,
method of construction and surface coating type • Don’t grind, wire brush, ile, scrape or
requires specialty knowledge and tools to safely machine buf.
complete a quality reinish. Even if a detailed and • Don’t weld, braze or let anyone touch your bike
professional inspection is performed before, during with a torch.
and after, you still run the risk of concealing potential • Don’t drill any holes.
problems. No change in appearance is worth these
• Don’t acid dip or etch.
risks.
• Don’t anodize or chrome plate.
Small chips or minor scratches may be touched up
Any of these procedures can seriously harm the
with automotive paint.
structural integrity and/or longevity of your frame
fork or components.

45
PART II
A.7 - BICYCLES HAVE If you cannot have all accessories mounted by your
local REI store or other professional bicycle mechanic,
SHARP SURFACES please be sure to follow the instructions and seek
assistance when appropriate. Always be sure that
any accessory installed to your bike does not block
CAUTION or interfere with its required relectors or lighting
system.
BIicycles have exposed sharp surfaces and
can cause injury. A.9 - BICYCLE RACKS
Exercise caution with chainrings and pointed, Automobile bicycle racks are available from many
aggressive platform pedals, as they have sharp and manufacturers and many rack designs exist. They
potentially dangerous surfaces. Use caution when are convenient devices for transporting your bike.
working on your bike. If you slip or fall you could be However, any bicycle rack has potential to damage
injured. your bicycle. Damage can occur immediately, after
repeated mounting and dismounting, or while the
bike is being transported. We can’t cover all the
A.8 - INSTALLING ACCESSORIES possible ways in which a rack might cause damage
to your bike.
There are countless accessories that have been
designed to it on a bike or be used during your rides.
Many of them can add greatly to your enjoyment of CAUTION
the sport.
Read and follow the rack manufacturer’s
instructions before mounting your bike to
CAUTION avoid risk of injury.
Incompatible accessories or poorly or
improperly mounted accessories can afect All frames and forks can be damaged by the clamps
the performance of your bicycle and may be and support systems of a bike rack. Both carbon and
unsafe, causing risk of injury. aluminum can sufer serious abrasion damage by
any uncontrolled movement during transport. All
damage to your bike can be serious, which is why
Please use your best judgment when selecting,
you must take extra care when selecting and using
installing and using accessories for your bicycle. It is
bike racks.
nearly impossible to predict all of the ways in which
your accessory selections could afect your riding and When mounting your bike on an external rack,
operation of your bike, potentially creating additional remove all bags, panniers, water bottles, etc. to
safety hazards. Your local REI store and many other minimize wind resistance and reduce the chances for
retailers can ofer guidance as to the options that will loss and damage.
be best to achieve your desired results. Always be
sure to practice riding with any new additions to your Contact your local REI store or your local bicycle
bike on hazard- and traic-free roads. retailer for help choosing and using a bike rack.

Pay particular attention when requesting, installing

and/or using any items that involve, afect or change
the primary functional systems of your bike. Primary
systems include the brake, steering, seating, wheel
and/or drive systems. We also ask that you use the
same judgment that you would use for operating
any vehicle when you decide to install and use any
electronic, navigational or communication devices
on your bike. Many municipalities have legal
requirements that may apply to your use of these
items as well.

46
A.10 - TIRE SIZE A.11 - TOE-CLIP OVERLAP

WARNING WARNING
MOUNTING THE WRONG SIZE TIRES CAN TOE-CLIP OVERLAP COULD CAUSE YOU TO
RESULT IN THE THEM HITTING THE FORK OR LOSE CONTROL OF YOUR BIKE, LEADING TO
FRAME WHEN RIDING. A MOVING TIRE CAN SERIOUS INJURY OR DEATH.
BE STOPPED WHEN IT TOUCHES THE FORK
OR FRAME. IF THIS HAPPENS, YOU CAN LOSE What is It?
CONTROL OF YOUR BIKE AND BE THROWN
“Toe-clip overlap” or “toe overlap” describes the toe
OFF, RESULTING IN SERIOUS INJURY OR
of your shoe or toe-clip contacting the front tire (or
DEATH.
front fender) as in ig 18. This may occur when the
pedal with your shoe (with or without a toe-clip) is
Take care that the tires you select are compatible all the way forward and the front wheel is turned
with your bike’s fork or frame design. Also, be sure to sharply to a position where the toe or toe-clip can
follow the manufacturer’s recommendations for your contact the tire (or fender). If you ride with clipless
suspension systems. pedals, attach your riding shoes to the pedals and
check for front tire clearance.
When you are considering tires for your bike take into
account:
The actual measured size of a tire may be diferent
than its sidewall marking. Each time you mount
a new tire, take the time to inspect the actual FRONT TOE-CLIP
clearance between the rotating tire and all parts of TIRE OVERLAP
the frame. The CPSC requires at least 1/16" (1.6 mm) TURNED
tire clearance from any part of the bike. Allowing for
lateral rim lex and a wheel or rim that is out-of-true LEFT OR
will likely mean choosing a rear tire that provides RIGHT
even more clearance than the CPSC recommends. PEDAL
Ask your local REI store or bicycle retailer for the right
tires for your bike and its particular components.

“Toe-clip overlap” is more common on small frame

size bicycles. It can be simple to reduce contact
with the front tire: have the inside pedal up before
beginning a turn. As you turn to the left, the inside
(left) pedal should be positioned at twelve o’clock. As
you turn to the right, the inside (right) pedal should
be positioned at twelve o’clock. Having the inside
pedal up will prevent any toe-clip-to-tire contact and
maximize cornering ground clearance.
Whether or not you have overlap, or how much
overlap you have, can be changed. Be aware that toe
clearance can be increased or decreased by changes
in crank arm length, size of pedals or toe-clips used,
size of tires used, addition of fenders, and the size
and/or design of shoes worn.

47
PART II
A.12 - AFTERMARKET A.13 - AFTERMARKET
BRAKE SYSTEMS POWER SYSTEMS

WARNING WARNING
DO NOT MODIFY YOUR FRAME, FORK OR DO NOT INSTALL A POWER SYSTEM (GAS OR
COMPONENTS IN ANY WAY TO MOUNT BRAKE ELECTRIC) ONTO YOUR BIKE.
SYSTEMS. THESE MODIFICATIONS CAN CAUSE
DAMAGE LEADING TO SERIOUS INJURY OR YOUR NOVARA BIKE WAS NOT DESIGNED
DEATH. OR INTENDED FOR USE WITH ANY TYPE
OF AFTERMARKET POWER SYSTEM
AND ITS INSTALLATION MAY ALTER THE
Choose only brakes that mount to the frame, PERFORMANCE CHARACTERISTICS AND/
swingarm, or fork using only the existing disc brake, OR SHORTEN THE LIFESPAN OF THE FRAME,
V-brake or cantilever mounts. Do not modify the FORK AND COMPONENTS. THIS CAN RESULT
existing mounts or clamp, weld, or in any other way IN REDUCED CONTROL AND ACCIDENTS THAT
add new or diferent mounts. Any modiication may CAN LEAD TO SERIOUS INJURY OR DEATH.
weaken or damage the frame. For maintenance
instructions and other warnings, read the literature
provided by the brake manufacturer. There are many types of power systems from many
diferent manufacturers. We simply can’t predict
When choosing replacements, please ask your local what can go wrong by installing one.
REI store or your local bicycle retailer.
We can say that installing an aftermarket power
system represents a MAJOR modiication of your
bike. It will change the way your bike handles and
fundamentally alter its operation.
When combined with your bike, the power system
can be become dangerous to operate. For example,
the brakes may not be adequate for higher speeds,
nor may the tires be rated for the additional weight.

48
49
PART II
SECTION B. There are many types of bicycles and many variations
within each type. There are bicycles that mix features
INTENDED USE and others that cross categories. For example, there
are road racing bicycles with triple cranks that have
the low gearing of a touring bike and the quick
handling of a racing bike but are not well suited for
carrying heavy loads on a tour. For that purpose,
you want a touring bike. There are urban and
WARNING comfort bicycles that can be itted with of-road tires
although they are not intended for of-road use. For
IT IS IMPORTANT THAT YOU UNDERSTAND that purpose you want a mountain bike.
YOUR BICYCLE AND ITS INTENDED USE. USING
A BICYCLE IN A MANNER FOR WHICH IT WAS On the following pages, we outline the intended
NOT INTENDED CAN LEAD TO ACCIDENTS use categories that REI and Novara use for the
RESULTING IN SERIOUS INJURY OR DEATH. development of our bicycles. Please remember that
these usage conditions are generalized and evolving,
as are bicycles and the way they are used.
No one type of bicycle is suited for all purposes. Please contact your local REI store if you have any
Your local REI store can help you pick the right questions about a Novara bike and your intended
Novara bicycle for you and help you understand its use.
limitations.
Prior to a purchase, modiication of a current bicycle
or a major change in use, do your research. Spend
time at your local REI store or your local bicycle
retailer and ind someone with expertise in the area
that interests you. Look online, engage local clubs or
user groups, read books and magazines, and make a
list of all of the questions that you don’t have answers
to. Seemingly small diferences in bikes, components
and accessories can greatly change the intended use,
lifespan and/or performance of a bicycle for a certain
purpose.

50
B.1 - CHILDREN’S SIDEWALK B.2 - SPORT AND
PERFORMANCE ROAD

! WARNING ! ! WARNING !
To REDUCE the risk of To REDUCE the risk of
SERIOUS INJURY or DEATH: SERIOUS INJURY or DEATH:

• WEAR YOUR HELMET – Always. • WEAR YOUR HELMET – Always.

• INSPECT YOUR BIKE – Before each • INSPECT YOUR BIKE – Before each
ride, and after any crash or impact. ride, and after any crash or impact.
Never ride a bike with any damage or Never ride a bike with any damage or
cracks. cracks.

• READ AND FOLLOW – The owners • READ AND FOLLOW – The owners
manual and supplements. manual and supplements.

• INTENDED USE – This bike has been • INTENDED USE – This bike has been
designed and tested to be used as designed and tested to be used as
labeled. See owners manual for labeled. See owners manual for
additional information. additional information.

More information at 800.426.4840 More information at 800.426.4840

www.rei.com www.rei.com

Do not remove this label Do not remove this label

Suitable for
road riding
Adult supervision required (only)
No traffic
Weight Limit 80 pounds Weight Limit 250 pounds

CONDITION 0 CONDITION 1
Bikes designed for riding by children over the age Bikes designed for riding on a paved surface where
of three under appropriate parental supervision in the tires do not lose ground contact.
a manner consistent with the child’s bicycling skills.
Bicycles intended for this use are “sidewalk bicycles.”

MAXIMUM WEIGHT LIMIT MAXIMUM WEIGHT LIMIT

RIDER LUGGAGE* TOTAL RIDER LUGGAGE* TOTAL
lbs. / kg lbs. / kg lbs. / kg lbs. / kg lbs. / kg lbs. / kg

80 / 36 0/0 80 / 36 250 / 113 10 / 4.5 260 / 118

*Seat bag / handlebar bag only

51
PART II
B.3 - GENERAL-PURPOSE RIDING B.4 - CROSS-COUNTRY RIDING

! WARNING ! ! WARNING !
To REDUCE the risk of To REDUCE the risk of
SERIOUS INJURY or DEATH: SERIOUS INJURY or DEATH:

• WEAR YOUR HELMET – Always. • WEAR YOUR HELMET – Always.

• INSPECT YOUR BIKE – Before each • INSPECT YOUR BIKE – Before each
ride, and after any crash or impact. ride, and after any crash or impact.
Never ride a bike with any damage or Never ride a bike with any damage or
cracks. cracks.

• READ AND FOLLOW – The owners • READ AND FOLLOW – The owners
manual and supplements. manual and supplements.

• INTENDED USE – This bike has been • INTENDED USE – This bike has been
designed and tested to be used as designed and tested to be used as
labeled. See owners manual for labeled. See owners manual for
additional information. additional information.

More information at 800.426.4840 More information at 800.426.4840

www.rei.com www.rei.com

Do not remove this label Do not remove this label

For off-road
Suitable for
riding with
road riding and
obstacles less
smooth trails
than 12" (30cm)

Weight Limit 250 pounds Weight Limit 250 pounds

CONDITION 1+ CONDITION 2
Bikes designed for riding Condition 1, plus smooth Bikes designed for riding Condition 1.5, plus
gravel roads and improved trails with moderate intermediate of-road trails, small obstacles, and
grades where the tires do not lose ground contact. smooth technical areas, including areas where
momentary loss of tire contact with the ground may
occur. NO jumping.

MAXIMUM WEIGHT LIMIT MAXIMUM WEIGHT LIMIT

RIDER LUGGAGE TOTAL RIDER LUGGAGE TOTAL
lbs. / kg lbs. / kg lbs. / kg lbs. / kg lbs. / kg lbs. / kg

250 / 113 30 / 14 280 / 127 250 / 125 55 / 25 305 / 138

Touring/Trekking Full Suspension

250 / 113 55 / 25 305 / 138 250 / 125 5 / 2.3 255 / 116

52
B.5 - ADVANCED CROSS-COUNTRY B.6 - ALL-MOUNTAIN

! WARNING ! ! WARNING !
To REDUCE the risk of To REDUCE the risk of
SERIOUS INJURY or DEATH: SERIOUS INJURY or DEATH:

• WEAR YOUR HELMET – Always. • WEAR YOUR HELMET – Always.

• INSPECT YOUR BIKE – Before each • INSPECT YOUR BIKE – Before each
ride, and after any crash or impact. ride, and after any crash or impact.
Never ride a bike with any damage or Never ride a bike with any damage or
cracks. cracks.

• READ AND FOLLOW – The owners • READ AND FOLLOW – The owners
manual and supplements. manual and supplements.

• INTENDED USE – This bike has been • INTENDED USE – This bike has been
designed and tested to be used as designed and tested to be used as
labeled. See owners manual for labeled. See owners manual for
additional information. additional information.

More information at 800.426.4840 More information at 800.426.4840

www.rei.com www.rei.com

Do not remove this label Do not remove this label

For rough
off-road riding
and jumps less For extreme
than 24" (61cm) off-road riding

Weight Limit 250 pounds Weight Limit 250 pounds

CONDITION 3 CONDITION 4
Bikes designed for riding Condition 2, plus rough Bikes designed for riding Conditions 1, 2 and 3, plus
trails, obstacles, and technical areas, including areas rough technical areas, moderately sized obstacles,
where momentary loss of tire contact with the and small jumps.
ground may occur. NO jumping.
Novara does not produce bicycles in this category.
Novara does not produce bicycles in this category.

53
PART II
SECTION C. C.1 - INSPECTION AND
MAINTENANCE ROUTINES
OFF-ROAD RIDING

CAUTION
Of-road riding usually involves many variables such
as constantly changing traction, obstacles, changes Mountain bike riding is very hard on bikes.
in line of sight, up hill, down hill, soft surfaces, dry Mountain bikes need frequent cleaning,
surfaces and wet surfaces. Of-road riding requires maintenance and inspection to reduce the
managing a complex and constantly changing risk of injury.
rider-to-bicycle feedback loop of traction, weight
distribution, application of power, application of
brakes and steering driven by the conditions one Clean your bike after every ride and conduct a pre-
encounters. The complexity and ever-changing ride inspection (see Pre-Ride Checklist) before you
nature of of-road riding requires focus, concentration, head back out riding. Read the section on inspection
strength, itness and learning to read the trail. The art in this manual and remember of-road use can be
of managing all of this while surrounded by nature hard on a bicycle, and maintenance and repair is
makes it a challenging and wonderful sport. likely needed more often than for on-road use.
Failure to keep up with maintenance and inspection
increases the risk that you won’t have a good time
CAUTION out on your bike.

Mountain bike riding is very diferent from

riding a bike on the road. For starters, it is C.2 - SUSPENSION
almost certain you will fall of and be injured.
Suspension can increase the handling capabilities
and comfort of your bicycle. An enhanced capability
Join a club and ind experienced people to teach may allow you to ride faster, particularly on rough
you. Practice and learn to stay in control. Carefully, or bumpy surfaces. As common sense tells you,
progressively learn to expand your limits, but always increased speed brings increased risk.
ride within them.
Do not confuse the built-in capabilities of a
suspensions bike with your own capabilities, which
must be learned. Increasing your skill will take time
and practice. Stay in control, and carefully, gradually
learn the feel and handling of your suspension bike.
When you apply the front brakes on a suspension
bike, the front of the bike will fall or dip as weight
shifts forward. This is normal. (The front of your car
dips when you apply the brakes.) You must learn
to anticipate this weight shift and compensate by
shifting your body weight back.

54
C.3 - JUMPING
CAUTION
WARNING CAUTION: PLEASE TAKE THE TIME TO
PRACTICE AND GET FAMILIAR WITH YOUR
JUMPING IS VERY RISKY. YOU COULD FALL, FIXED GEAR.
LEADING TO SERIOUS INJURY OR DEATH. Some items of important consideration are:
- Pedal strike: When cornering, you can not
Novara does not produce bicycles that are designed stop pedaling. You must manage the risk of
for this type of use. contacting the ground with your pedals.
- Derailment: If the chain is not properly
C.4 - DOWNHILL AND tensioned and aligned, it could come loose
and fall of. This will greatly reduce your
LIFT-SERVICED RIDING control and possibly become entangled in the
rear wheel, risking lock-up.
- Pinching: Catching something in the
WARNING drivetrain will result in one or both of the
following events: damage to the item or rear-
DOWNHILL OFF-ROAD RIDING, WHETHER
wheel lockup.
LIFT-SERVED, PEDALED OR SHUTTLED,
INVOLVES A VOLUNTARY ASSUMPTION OF - Pedal Contact: If you lose control or contact
A VERY LARGE SET OF RISKS. IT REQUIRES with the pedals while in motion, it can be
A GREAT DEAL OF SKILL AND SPECIALTY very diicult to regain control until the bike is
EQUIPMENT FOR SAFE PARTICIPATION. THE completely stopped. For this reason, clipless
RISKS ARE LARGE AND CRASHES CAN LEAD pedals are not recommended for ixed-gear
TO SERIOUS INJURY OR DEATH. riding.

Conversion:
Novara does not produce bicycles that are designed
for this type of use. If your bicycle was not sold as a model intended to
be used with a ixed-gear drivetrain, please consult
C.5 - FIXED-GEAR RIDING your local REI store or local bicycle dealer about its
suitability. Chain tension and chainline are critical
AND CONVERSION elements to a safe conversion and for this and other
Some Novara bicycles can be converted into a “ixed- reasons, not all bicycles are good candidates for
gear” type of bicycle. A ixed-gear or “ixie” is a bicycle ixed-wheel use.
where the rear wheel and hub are connected directly
to the crankset and cannot coast or freewheel. As a
result, the pedals cannot move independently of the WARNING
rear wheel.
DO NOT REMOVE OR DISABLE THE PRIMARY
As one of the simplest forms of a bicycle drivetrain, BRAKING SYSTEMS ON ANY BICYCLE FOR
ixed gear riding can be rewarding for those who USE AS A FIXED-GEAR BICYCLE. RIDING A
use it. However, it is an advanced form of riding and BICYCLE WITHOUT THE BRAKING SYSTEMS
should only be considered by those who are highly IT WAS DESIGNED AND SOLD WITH GREATLY
experienced and technically proicient. INCREASES THE POTENTIAL FOR LOSS OF
CONTROL LEADING TO ACCIDENTS WHICH
MAY RESULT IN SERIOUS INJURY OR DEATH.

55
PART II
SECTION D. D.1 - UNDERSTANDING METAL
AS A MATERIAL
MATERIALS AND
a) Properties of Materials
INSPECTION Please understand that there is no single truth that
can be stated that accurately characterizes the
nature of the diferent materials used in constructing
In this section, we outline some material science bicycles. How a chosen material is applied is much
basics and explain how they relate to your bicycle, more important than the material alone. One must
some of the trade-ofs made in designing your look at the way the bike is designed, tested, and
bicycle, and what you can expect from your bicycle. manufactured together with an understanding of
We will also provide important basic guidelines on the material.
how to maintain and inspect it. Metals vary widely in their resistance to corrosion.
Steel must be protected or rust will attack it.
WARNING Aluminum and titanium quickly develop an oxide
ilm that protects the metal from further corrosion.
Both are therefore quite resistant to corrosion.
FREQUENT INSPECTION OF YOUR BIKE IS
Aluminum is not perfectly corrosion resistant and
IMPORTANT FOR YOUR SAFETY. USE THE PRE-
particular care must be used where it contacts other
RIDE CHECKLIST BEFORE AND AFTER EVERY
metals or galvanic corrosion can occur.
RIDE.
Metals, as a class of materials, are comparatively
RIDING A BICYCLE WITH EXISTING DAMAGE
ductile. Ductile means bending, buckling and
CAN LEAD TO ACCIDENTS THAT MAY RESULT
stretching before breaking. Generally speaking, of
IN SERIOUS INJURY OR DEATH.
the common bicycle frame-building materials, steel
is the most ductile, followed by titanium and then
A detailed inspection of your bicycle is important. aluminum.
How often this is needed depends upon you, the
bicycle, your riding style, environmental conditions,
frequency of use and many other factors.
You, the rider/owner, have control and knowledge
of how often you use your bike, how hard you use
it and where you use it. Because we, as the designer
and manufacturer, cannot track your use, you are
responsible for inspection and maintenance.
If you are not interested in the “hands-on” aspects of
your bicycle and do not wish to perform inspection or
maintenance on your own bike, then you must make
your local REI store or local bicycle retailer a partner
in maintaining and inspecting your bicycle. Work
with your bicycle shop to determine a maintenance
and inspection schedule appropriate for your riding.
For your safety, understanding and communication
with your local REI store, we urge you to read this
section. The materials used to make your bike
determine how to inspect it properly.

56
When all metal bikes are crashed you will usually see One can design a part that is so strong that fatigue
some evidence of this ductility in bent, buckled or life is nearly ininite. This requires a lot of material
folded metal. and a lot of weight. Any structure that must be light
and strong will have a inite fatigue life. Aircraft, race
It is now common for the main frame to be made cars and motorcycles all have parts with inite fatigue
of metal and the fork of carbon iber. See D.2 lives. If you wanted a bicycle with an ininite fatigue
Understanding Carbon Fiber below. The relative life, it would weigh far more than any bicycle sold
ductility of metals and the lack of ductility of carbon today. So we all make a trade-of: the wonderful,
iber means that in a crash scenario you can expect lightweight performance we want requires that we
some bending or buckling in the metal but none in inspect the structure.
the carbon. Below a certain load the carbon fork may
stay intact even though the frame is damaged. Above In most cases a fatigue crack is not a defect. It is a
a certain load the carbon fork will be completely sign that the part has been worn out, a sign the part
broken. has reached the end of its useful life. When your car
tires wear down to the point that the tread bars are
b) Metal Fatigue 101 contacting the road, those tires are not defective.
Common sense tells us that nothing that is used lasts Those tires are worn out and the tread bar says
forever. The more you use something, the harder you “time for replacement.” When a metal part shows a
use it, and the worse the conditions you use it in, the fatigue crack, it is worn out. The crack says “time for
shorter its life. replacement.”
Fatigue is the term used to describe accumulated
damage to a part caused by repeated loading. To
cause fatigue damage, the load the part receives
must be great enough. A crude, often-used example
is bending a paper clip back and forth (repeated
loading) until it breaks. This simple deinition will
help you understand that fatigue has nothing to
do with time or age. A bicycle in a garage does not
fatigue. Fatigue happens only through use.
So what kind of “damage” are we talking about? On
a microscopic level, a crack forms in a highly stressed
area. As the load is repeatedly applied, the crack
grows. At some point the crack becomes visible to
the naked eye. Eventually it becomes so large that
the part is too weak to carry the same load that,
without the crack, it could carry. At that point, there
can be a complete and immediate failure of the part.

57
PART II
• CRACKS AND OTHER DAMAGE MAY MAKE
WARNING CREAKING NOISES AS YOU RIDE. Think
about any unusual noise as an opportunity to
DO NOT RIDE A FRAME OR FORK WITH
investigate its cause. Remember that a well-
ANY CRACK, EVEN A SMALL ONE. RIDING A
maintained and structurally sound bicycle
CRACKED FRAME OR FORK COULD LEAD TO
should be very quiet and free of creaks and
YOUR FRAME/FORK BREAKING, WHICH MAY
squeaks.
RESULT IN SERIOUS INJURY OR DEATH.
SIMPLE RULE 4: Investigate and ind the
source of any noise. It may not a be a crack, but
• CORROSION IS DAMAGE. Many parts of a whatever is causing the noise should be ixed
bicycle are susceptible to corrosive damage. before riding.
Please understand that human sweat is highly
corrosive.

SIMPLE RULE 1: Keep your bike clean, store

it carefully, lubricate the moving parts, and
remove anything corrosive as soon as you can.

• STAINS AND DISCOLORATION CAN OCCUR

NEAR A CRACK. Such staining can also be an
early warning that a part is fatigued or damaged.

SIMPLE RULE 2: Inspect and investigate any

staining to see if it is associated with a crack or
other damage.

• SIGNIFICANT SCRATCHES, GOUGES, DENTS

OR SCORING CREATE STARTING POINTS
FOR CRACKS. Think about the cut into the
material surface as a focal point for stress (in fact
engineers call such areas “stress risers”—areas
where stress is concentrated). Perhaps you have
seen glass cut. You’ll recall how the glass was
scored and then broke right along the scored
line.

SIMPLE RULE 3: Avoid scratches, gouges or

scoring your bike. When the inevitable occurs,
pay frequent attention to this area and consider
replacement of the part.

58
c) Fatigue Is Not a Perfectly Predictable d) Quick Frame and Fork Inspection
Science 1. Clean the bike and remove the wheels.
Fatigue is not a perfectly predictable science, but 2. Inspect the whole frame carefully for cracks.
we can give you some general factors to help you
• Pay particular attention to the underside of the
determine how often you need to inspect (or have
top and down tubes where they connect to the
your retailer inspect) your bicycle. The more you
head tube.
it the “shorten product life” proile, the more
frequently you need to inspect. The more you it the • Inspect joined areas in detail. This is where two
“lengthen product life” proile, the less frequently items are connected or welded.
you need to inspect. • Be sure to look at the inside of the rear triangle
and the dropouts.
Factors that shorten product life: 3. Inspect the fork carefully for cracks. Pay particular
attention around the dropouts, brake mounting
• Hard, harsh riding style
areas and crown.
• “Hits,” crashes, jumps or other “shots”
4. Finally, check all mounted components for
to bike
obvious loosening.
• High mileage
• Higher body weight
e) Other Suspension Forks
• Stronger, itter, and/or more aggressive riders
If you have a fork made by a third party, please read
• Corrosive environment (wet, salt air, winter road and follow the inspection instructions contained in
salt, accumulated sweat) the manual that cover that fork. If you do not have the
• Presence of abrasives (mud, dirt, sand and soil) third party’s manual, please contact your local REI store
in riding environment your local bicycle retailer for information on getting
a copy.
Factors that lengthen product life:
• Smooth, luid riding style
• No “hits,” crashes, jumps or other “shots” to bike
• Low mileage
• Lower body weight
• Less aggressive rider
• Non-corrosive environment (dry, salt-free air)
• Clean riding environment

59
PART II
D.2 - UNDERSTANDING c) What Are the Limits of Carbon Fiber?
CARBON FIBER Well-designed carbon iber frames, forks and
components have long fatigue lives. However, REI
All riders with high-performance bicycles and still urges you to regularly inspect your carbon iber
components should understand a fundamental frame, fork or components.
reality of carbon iber. Composite materials
constructed of carbon iber are strong and light, but d) Protect Carbon Fiber From Extreme
when crashed or overloaded, carbon ibers do not fail Temperatures
progressively through bending or distortion, instead Protect your carbon iber bike and parts from
they fail catastrophically and break. extremely high temperatures when storing or
transporting it.
a) What Is Carbon Fiber?
Do not store your bike in places where the
The term “carbon iber” refers to parts that are made temperature will exceed 66.5°C (150°F) for extended
up of diferent component materials. Carbon iber periods of time.
composites typically include a strong, light iber in
a matrix of plastic epoxy, molded to form a shape. For example, do not leave your bike lying lat in a
The epoxy matrix bonds the carbon ibers together, black pickup truck bed in the desert sun or under the
transfers load to other ibers, and provides a smooth glass of a hatchback car.
outer surface. The carbon ibers are the “skeleton”
that carries the load.

b) Why Are Carbon Fibers Used?

Unlike metals, which have uniform properties in all
directions, carbon ibers can be placed in speciic
orientations to optimize the structure for particular
loads. The choice of where to place the carbon ibers
gives engineers a powerful tool to create strong, light
bicycles. Engineers can also orient ibers to suit other
goals such as comfort and vibration damping.
Carbon iber materials have a very high strength-
to-weight ratio. Used properly, carbon iber is an
amazingly lightweight structural material relative to
metals. Carbon iber is also corrosion resistant, much
more so than most metals.

60
e) Composite Frame, Fork and Unusual Noises:
Component Inspection Either a crack or delamination can cause creaking
Cracks: noises while riding. Think about such a noise as a
serious warning signal. A well-maintained bicycle
Inspect for cracks and broken or splintered areas. Any
will be very quiet and free of creaks and squeaks.
crack is serious. Do not ride any bicycle or component
Investigate and ind the source of any noise. It may
that has a crack of any size.
not be a crack or delamination, but whatever is
Delamination: causing the noise must be ixed before riding.
Delamination is serious damage. Carbon iber is
made from layers of fabric. Delamination means that WARNING
the layers of fabric are no longer bonded together.
Do not ride any bicycle or component that has any CREAKS OR UNUSUAL NOISES COMING
delamination. These are some delamination clues: FROM YOUR BIKE NEED TO BE INVESTIGATED.
• A cloudy or white area. This kind of area looks UNUSUAL NOISES OFTEN OCCUR PRIOR TO
diferent from the ordinary undamaged areas. A COMPONENT FAILURE, WHICH CAN LEAD
Undamaged areas will look glassy, shiny or “deep,” as TO A COMPLETE FAILURE RESULTING IN
if one was looking into a clear liquid. Delaminated INJURY OR DEATH.
areas will look opaque and cloudy.
• Bulging or deformed shape. If delamination occurs,
the surface shape may change. The surface may
have a bump, bulge, or soft spot, or not be smooth
and fair.
• A diference in sound when tapping the surface.
If you gently tap the surface of an undamaged
composite you will hear a consistent sound, usually
a hard, sharp sound. If you then tap a delaminated
area, you will hear a diferent sound, usually a duller,
less-sharp sound.

WARNING
DO NOT RIDE A FRAME OR FORK WITH ANY
DELAMINATION OR CRACK. IF YOU RIDE A
DELAMINATED OR CRACKED FRAME/FORK/
COMPONENT IT MAY COMPLETELY BREAK
APART WITH RISK OF ACCIDENT, SERIOUS
INJURY OR DEATH.

61
PART II
D.3 - UNDERSTANDING a) Aftermarket “Superlight” Components
COMPONENTS Think carefully about your rider proile as outlined
above. Discuss your needs and your proile very
It is often necessary to remove and disassemble honestly with your retailer. Take these choices
components in order to properly and carefully inspect seriously and understand that you are responsible for
them. Most customers will use this component list as the changes.
a checklist. The intention here is to tell you which
parts, and which areas of those parts, most need b) Original Equipment Components
inspection. Insist that your mechanic also do such Novara tests the fatigue life of many of the
inspections. components that are original equipment on your
bike. This means that the designs of many original
equipment components have met our test criteria
WARNING and have reasonable fatigue life. It does not mean
that the original equipment components will last
FAILURE TO DISASSEMBLE OR REASSEMBLE forever; they will not.
BICYCLE COMPONENTS PROPERLY COULD
RESULT IN AN ACCIDENT, WITH RISK OF
c) Stem
SERIOUS INJURY OR DEATH. Clean and inspect carefully for cracks. Pay particular
attention to the underside of the stem. If the stem is
of welded construction, examine the edges of each
If disassembly is required, remember that there can
weld. See also the closely related handlebar section
be special tools and techniques required. Unless you
below.
are an experienced bicycle mechanic, we urge you to
have this work done at your local REI store. d) Handlebar
As always, if you see anything that you are unsure of, Remove from stem. With road bars, you will need to
do not ride the bike; take it in for service. remove the handlebar tape. Remove any handlebar-
mounted components. Clean and inspect carefully
Do not ride any component with a crack, even a small for cracks. Pay particular attention to the area where
one. We recommend that you clearly mark or destroy the handlebar emerges from the stem. This is the area
any compromised component you replace so that it where virtually all handlebars will eventually break.
cannot be used again. Periodic replacement of all handlebars is strongly
recommended. How often they need to be replaced
depends upon the many factors outlined above.
Be sure that you do not scratch or score the surface
of the handlebar with either the stem or the brake or
the shifter levers. As noted above, any such damage
will reduce the life of the handlebar and could lead
to breakage.
If you ind that there is a sharp edge or burr on the
inside of the stem, right where the handlebar emerges,
it must be smoothed out with ine sandpaper (220
grit or iner) before the new handlebar is installed.
Such a sharp edge or burr could cause a scratching
or scoring of the handlebar. As noted above, any such
damage will reduce the life of the handlebar and
could lead to breakage.

e) Seatpost
Remove from seat tube and remove from saddle.
Disassemble the head/saddle clamp assembly. Clean
and inspect all parts carefully for cracks.

62
Pay particular attention to the bolt (or bolts) that f) Wheels
clamp the saddle in place. If the bolt looks stretched, Clean the wheels. Inspect the hub for cracks where
bent or in any way damaged, replace it. Note that the spokes are attached. Inspect the rim where the
these bolts have been known to be broken due to spokes meet it.
fatigue when not properly tightened. They must
be properly tightened with a torque wrench to g) Brake Track of Wheel Rim
speciication. The brake track is the surface of the rim where the
The threads of the seatpost bolts must be greased brake pads make contact, and this surface will wear
before reassembly. with use. We urge you to inspect for this. Rims wear
out more quickly on a bike used in wet conditions.
Be sure the clamp assembly is clamped only to the
straight parallel part of the saddle rails. Many rims have brake track wear indicators; please
look for this feature. If the wear indicator shows that
f) Seatpost Lubrication the rim is worn out, there is a danger that the rim
Clean and apply the following to a seatpost before could be broken due to tire pressure and/or riding
inserting it into the frame: loads.

FRAME MATERIAL SEAT POST

LUBRICATION
WARNING
SEAT TUBE SEAT POST
METAL METAL GREASE DO NOT RIDE ON A RIM THAT HAS BEEN
WORN OUT. IF THE RIM BREAKS WHILE YOU
METAL CARBON FIBER CARBON GEL ARE RIDING YOU COULD HAVE AN ACCIDENT,
CARBON FIBER METAL CARBON GEL WITH RISK OF SERIOUS INJURY OR DEATH.
CARBON FIBER CARBON FIBER CARBON GEL

GREASE: A high-quality bicycle bearing grease

D.4 - RIDING THROUGH WATER
CARBON GEL: A gel-like lubricant formulated
for use with carbon iber components.

g) Saddle CAUTION
While the saddle is of the seatpost, clean and inspect
the rails carefully for cracks. Check the saddle rails to “Sealed” components (such as suspension
the saddle body; make sure that the rails are irmly forks, headsets, bottom brackets and hubs)
attached. are efective at keeping mud and grit out of
your bearings.
h) Pedals
However, any bike that is submerged or
Remove both from the crankset. Clean and inspect
exposed to large amounts of water will require
carefully for cracks. Pay particular attention to
a complete bearing overhaul to prevent
the pedal axle. See clipless pedal manufacturer’s
extensive—and expensive—damage.
instructions for information on cleat wear and
replacement. DO NOT ride in the ocean. Any bicycle
substantially exposed or submerged in salt
e) Crankset water will likely need a complete overhaul or
Remove both sides from the bottom bracket. Clean replacement to avoid risk of injury.
and inspect all parts carefully for cracks. Examine
both inside and outside surfaces. Pay particular
attention to edges, shapes and changes of shape
that are a part of your particular crankset design. Also
check the area around the pedal mounting holes.

63
PART II
D.5 - BICYCLE LIFESPAN SECTION E. MAINTENANCE
Nothing Lasts Forever, Including Your Bike
When the useful life of your bike or its components is
over, continued use is hazardous.
WARNING
Every Novara frame, fork and components attached
to the them have a limited useful life. The length of INSPECTION AND MAINTENANCE ARE
that life will vary with the construction and materials CRITICAL TO YOUR SAFETY AND THE
used in the frame and components, the maintenance LONGEVITY OF YOUR BICYCLE.
and care the frame and components receive over
A POORLY MAINTAINED BIKE IS MORE LIKELY
their life, and the type and amount of use to which
TO BREAK OR MALFUNCTION, LEADING TO
the frame and components are subjected. Use in
AN ACCIDENT WHERE YOU CAN BE SERIOUSLY
competitive events, trick riding, ramp riding, jumping,
INJURED OR KILLED.
aggressive riding, riding on severe terrain, riding in
severe climates, riding with heavy loads, commercial
activities and other types of non-standard use
can dramatically shorten the life of the frame and E.1 - WARRANTY TUNE
components. Any one or a combination of these
conditions may result in an unpredictable breakage. REI tries to minimize the “break-in” efect of a new
bicycle by precisely adjusting it with this initial period
ALL FRAMES AND COMPONENTS SHOULD BE in mind. However, the bicycle will need mechanical
PERIODICALLY CHECKED BY A PROFESSIONAL attention during the irst ten (10) to ifteen (15) hours
MECHANIC for indicators of stress and/or of use to return it to an optimum performance level.
potential breakage, including cracks, deformation,
delamination, creaking sounds, corrosion, paint In essence, a “Warranty Tune” brings a recently
peeling, dents, and any other indicators of potential purchased bicycle back to the state it was in when it
problems, inappropriate use or abuse. These are left the store for the irst time. This “Warranty Tune”
important safety checks and very important to help is a free service that REI provides to our customers,
prevent accidents, bodily injury to the rider and ensuring a positive ongoing experience.
shortened product life.
As a general rule of thumb, two months of moderate
riding in good conditions, 2–3 times weekly, will be
suicient to break in a bicycle. If you experience any
problems sooner, you should bring the bicycle in for
service immediately.

64
E.2 - CLEANING E.4 - LUBRICATION
Use only water and dishwashing liquid. After cleaning your bike you should lubricate the
external moving parts. Consult with your local REI
On suspension forks and shocks, cover adjustment store or your local retailer to choose among the many
knobs and air ilter (if equipped) with a clean plastic types of lubes best suited to your bicycle, climate and
bag secured temporarily with a rubber band or riding conditions. After the chain, the pivot points on
masking tape. your derailleurs are the most common areas to lube.
Before wiping away dirt, use an ordinary water hose Apply a small drop of oil to each pivot point and wipe
to gently spray of heavy soils and dirt. of the excess.
Periodically, depending upon how aggressively, how
CAUTION often, and where you ride and the design of the
components on your bike, other lubrication may be
DO NOT power wash or use water under high part of your ongoing maintenance. If you are not an
pressure to clean your bike. Power washing experienced bicycle mechanic, take your bike to your
can force contaminants into parts where local REI store or local bicycle retailer.
they can promote corrosion and result in Other Lubrication Checklist
accelerated wear creating a risk of injury.
• Derailleur Cables
DO NOT use compressed air to dry.
• Brake Cables
DO NOT use abrasive or harsh chemical
cleaners/solvents. • Brake Pivots
• Headset Bearings
• Bottom Bracket Bearings
E.3 - PREVENTING CORROSION
• Hub Bearings
After cleaning and drying it is a good idea to lightly • Freehub
coat the water-bottle bosses with a water displacing
lubricant to minimize corrosion. This is particularly • Seatpost to Seat Tube
important on bicycles used in coastal salt air
environments and those drenched in sweat on an
indoor trainer.

65
PART II
E.5 - TIGHTENING TORQUES
Correct tightening torque for the fasteners (bolts,
screws, nuts) on your bicycle is important for the
durability and performance of your bicycle. We urge
you to buy and use a torque wrench for all of your
repair work.

Find Tightening Torque Information

The wide range of bicycle models and components Incorrect
used means that a listing of tightening torque would
be out of date by the time it was published. Many
fasteners should be installed with a thread-locking
adhesive such as Loctite®.
To determine correct tightening torque and any
adhesive application for a fastener we ask you
to check:
• Markings on the component. Correct
• Torque specs in the component manufacturer’s
instructions.
• Torque specs listed on the websites of component
manufacturers.

E.6 - BICYCLE REPAIR /

WORK STANDS
The clamping jaws of a bike stand can generate a
crushing force strong enough to seriously damage Figure 19.
your frame. See igure 19.
Place your bike in a stand by extending the seatpost
and positioning the stand clamp on the extended
seatpost. Don’t extend beyond the MINIMUM INSERT
line marked on the seatpost.
Since your carbon iber seatpost can also be damaged
by clamping force, adjust the stand clamp for the
minimum clamping force needed to secure the bike.
Also, before clamping, clean the post and protect the
seatpost inish with a rag.

CAUTION
Never place your bike in a bike stand by
clamping it onto the bike frame. Improper
clamping could cause damage leading to a
risk of injury.

66
E.7 - SERIAL NUMBER SECTION F
The serial number for your bike is located on a
barcoded label that is attached permanently to the BICYCLE TRAINERS
underside of the bottom bracket. See ig. 20. Potential Damage

CAUTION
Improperly mounting a bike in a trainer, or
using one that is not compatible with your
particular bike frame, can cause damage with
risk of injury.

Ask your local REI store for help selecting

the right trainer and using it correctly.
FLIP THE BIKE OVER AND LOOK ON THE BOTTOM OF If you ride a trainer that requires removal of the front
THE BOTTOM BRACKET SHELL FOR SERIAL NUMBER
wheel and clamps the fork dropouts, be sure your
fork quick-release is tight! Relative movement will
wear parts and weaken and damage your bike.
If you ride a trainer that holds the bike up by
clamping the rear quick-release between two cones,
XXXXXXX

take of the lightweight quick-release that came

with your bike. Substitute a heavy, classic, all-steel
quick-release and clamp it tight! Relative movement
will wear parts and weaken and damage your bike.
Note that many modern quick-releases will not it the
BOTTOM VIEW
clamping cones in this kind of trainer because their
THE SERIAL NUMBER WILL BE STAMPED IN THE
FRAME HERE BUT MAY BE PLACED ON THE shapes are incompatible.
BOTTOM BRACKET IN A SLIGHTLY DIFFERENT
FORMAT DEPENDING ON BIKE MODEL AND YEAR.
Be particularly cautious with a carbon frame or fork.
Carbon is relatively soft and not abrasion resistant.
If there is any relative movement, carbon will wear
quickly.
If you ride a trainer a lot, consider using an old bike:
Figure 20. Underside of Bottom Bracket
corrosion from sweat will take its toll. Weight is
irrelevant. Save wear on your expensive components.
Where Else Can I Find the Serial Number? Risk to Children
The serial number should also appear on your original
purchase documents.
CAUTION
KEEP CHILDREN AWAY FROM BICYCLES
MOUNTED ON STATIONARY TRAINERS, EVEN
WHEN THE BICYCLE IS NOT IN USE.
Spinning wheels attract children’s attention
and present a serious risk to young ingers.
Children have also been known to rotate
cranks by hand on bicycles left unattended on
stationary trainers, putting themselves at risk
of serious injury.

67
PART II
Are your wheels true? Lift each end of the bike and
SECTION G. spin each wheel. Does the space between the rim
PRE-RIDE CHECKLIST and the brake pads, or the tire and the frame, remain
nearly the same size as the wheel turns? Are your
spokes tight? (See PART I, Section 1.C: Mechanical
Safety Check.)
Are your wheels’ quick-releases properly
WARNING fastened? Be sure to read the section on proper
operation of quick-release skewers (see PART  I,
FOLLOW THIS CHECKLIST BEFORE EVERY Section 4.A: Wheels).
RIDE. IF YOU HAVE ANY REASON TO SUSPECT
THAT YOUR BICYCLE IS NOT FUNCTIONING Are your front and rear brakes functioning
PROPERLY, DO NOT RIDE IT. properly? With any rim brake, the brake pads must
make irm contact with the rim without the brake
HAVE IT INSPECTED BY AN REI STORE OR levers hitting the handlebar grip. With V-brakes, the
YOUR PREFERRED LOCAL RETAILER. TO quick-release “noodle” must be properly installed.
LOCATE YOUR NEAREST REI STORE CALL With cantilever brakes, the straddle cable must be
1-800-426-4840. FAILURE TO FOLLOW THIS properly attached. With caliper brakes, if there is a
CHECKLIST AND HAVE ANY POTENTIAL quick release function, it must be closed.
PROBLEM INSPECTED COULD LEAD TO AN
ACCIDENT, WITH RISK OF SERIOUS INJURY With hydraulic disc brakes, check that the lever feels
OR DEATH. irm and does not move too close to the handlebar
grip, and there is no evidence of leaking brake luid.
With cable-actuated disc brakes, check that the
Are you wearing a helmet and other appropriate lever feels irm and does not move too close to the
equipment and clothing, such as protective handlebar grip. With any disc brakes, the brake pads
glasses and gloves? Do not wear loose clothing that must make irm contact with the rotor without the
could become entangled in the bicycle (See PART I, brake levers hitting the handlebar grip (see PART I,
Section 2.A: The Basics). Section 4.C: Brakes).
Are your seatpost and stem securely fastened? How do your clipless pedals work today? Clip in
Twist the handlebars irmly from side to side while and out of your pedals before you begin. Experienced
holding the front wheel between your knees. The cyclists do. The connection between cleat and pedal
stem must not move in the steering tube. Similarly, is afected by dozens of factors, including dirt, mud,
the seatpost must be secure in the seat tube (See lubrication, spring tension and wear. By clipping in
PART I, Section 3: Fit). and out you will check the function and have a fresh
Are you visible to motorists? If you are riding at memory of how they feel (see PART I, Section 4.E:
dusk, dawn or night, you must make yourself Pedals).
visible to motorists. Use front and rear lights and How recently were your frame, fork and
a strobe or blinker. Relectors alone do not provide components inspected? Never ride a frame, fork or
adequate visibility. Wear relective clothing (see components with any crack or damage (see PART II,
PART I, Section 2.E: Night Riding and PART II, Section Section D: Materials and Inspection).
A: Important Safety Information).
Is it raining or wet? If so, be more cautious. Your
braking distances will increase, and your tires’ grip
on the road will decrease. Remember that motorists’
visibility decreases with bad weather (see PART  I,
Section 2.D: Wet-Weather Riding and PART  II,
Section A: Important Safety Information).
Are your tires properly inlated? Tires must be
inlated to the recommended pressure (see PART  I,
Section 4.G: Tires and Tubes).

68
RULES OF THE TRAIL
MOUNTAIN BIKERS, PLEASE DO YOUR PART TO MAINTAIN TRAIL ACCESS
BY OBSERVING THE FOLLOWING RULES OF THE TRAIL:
• RIDE ON OPEN TRAILS ONLY. Respect trail and road closures (ask if uncertain),
avoid trespassing on private land, and obtain permits or other authorization as may be
required. Federal and state wilderness areas are closed to cycling.
• LEAVE NO TRACE. Be sensitive to the dirt beneath you; practice low-impact cycling.
Wet and muddy trails are more vulnerable to damage. When the trailbed is soft, consider
other riding options. Stay on existing trails and do not create new ones. Be sure to pack
out at least as much as you pack in.
• CONTROL YOUR BICYCLE! Inattention for even a second can cause problems. Obey all
bicycle speed regulations and recommendations.
• ALWAYS YIELD THE TRAIL. Let your fellow trail users know you’re coming. A friendly
greeting or bell is considerate and works well. Show your respect when passing others
by slowing to a walk or even stopping. Anticipate that other trail users may be around
corners or in blind spots.
• NEVER SCARE ANIMALS. All animals are startled by an unannounced approach,
sudden movement or loud noise. Give animals extra room and time to adjust to you.
When passing horses, use special care and follow the directions of the horseback rider
(ask if uncertain). Running cattle and disturbing wildlife are serious offenses. Leave
gates as you found them, or as marked.
• PLAN AHEAD. Know your equipment, your ability and the area in which you are riding,
and prepare accordingly. Be self-sufficient at all times, keep your equipment in good
repair, and carry necessary supplies for changes in weather or other conditions. Always
wear a helmet and safety gear.
The above information is a synopsis of the “Rules of the Trail” information provided by the International
Mountain Bicycling Association (IMBA), a group that is dedicated to promoting environmentally sound and
socially responsible off-road bicycling. For the complete text or more information on IMBA, please visit
imba.com or call (303) 545-9011.

RIDE SAFE AND SMART

• Always wear a helmet when riding.
• Use lights, front and rear, when cycling at night and in low-visibility weather conditions—
reflectors aren’t enough.
• Have a clear-sounding horn or bell to warn others of your approach.
• Do not carry passengers or packages that interfere with your vision or control.
• Always give pedestrians the right of way.
• Reduce speed at all intersections, look both ways, then proceed with caution.
• Watch for cars pulling out into traffic and car doors opening.
• Know and obey all local and state traffic rules and regulations.
PRE-RIDE CHECKLIST

WARNING
FOLLOW THIS CHECKLIST BEFORE EVERY RIDE. IF YOU HAVE ANY REASON TO SUSPECT THAT YOUR
BICYCLE IS NOT FUNCTIONING PROPERLY, DO NOT RIDE IT. Have it inspected by an Authorized Novara
Retailer. To locate your nearest Authorized Novara Retailer call 1-800-426-4840. Failure to follow this
checklist and to have any potential problem inspected could lead to an accident, with risk of serious injury,
paralysis or death.

USE THIS CHECKLIST TO KEEP YOUR BIKE IN PEAK CONDITION

Tires... . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Proper inflation
Good condition; no signs of cuts or wear
Wheels. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Quick-release levers secured
Wheels true and centered in frame/fork
Brakes.. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Pads secure and aligned properly
Brakes centered
Brake levers symmetrical and secure
Cables and housings free of kinks/frays
Lever has at least 1" before bottoming
against handlebar
Handlebar.. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Aligned and properly secured
Stem. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Aligned and properly secured
Headset.. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . No play, turns freely
Saddle/seatpost.. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Aligned and properly secured
Drivetrain.. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Check for over-/under-shifts
Chain clean and lubed
Pedals.. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Properly secured
Crank arms.. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Properly secured
Bottom bracket.. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . No side-to-side play, spins freely
Accessories.. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Racks, bottle cages, fenders, etc. secured
Helmet. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . No cracks or breaks
Questions about any of these parts or adjustments? Our knowledgeable bike staff is happy to answer your questions.

REI MASTER TECHNICIANS ENSURE OUR 100% SATISFACTION GUARANTEE

Our 100% satisfaction guarantee ensures that
YOU GET EXPERT SERVICE every item you purchase at REI meets your
From basic maintenance to complete overhaul­—even wheel- high standards—or you can return it for a
building—any job or question about your bike can be handled replacement or refund.
by REI Master Technicians.
REI Master Techs know bikes inside and out. An intensive
certification program at the renowned Barnett Bicycle Institute
in Colorado ensures it.
Every REI bike-shop staff member is trained and certified by
the REI Master Tech in each store, so you can count on getting
DISTRIBUTED BY RECREATIONAL EQUIPMENT, INC.
consistent, knowledgeable service every time. SUMNER, WA 98390

NOV8624.1 3/10
Novara bikes are sold exclusively at REI; visit us at novarabike.com.