Litpack Manuel

LITPACK Toolbox
User Guide
Powering Water Decisions MIKE 2022

2
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Powering Water Decisions 3

4 LITPACK Toolbox - © DHI A/S
CONTENTS
Scatter Diagrams . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7
1 DFS0SCAT - Scatter Diagrams . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9
1.1 Input time series file . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9
1.2 Subseries Selection . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9
1.3 Class Delimiters . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10
1.4 Output Data Description . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11
1.5 Overview . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12
Profile Evolution Tools . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13

2 Introduction to Profile Evolution Tools . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15
3 Table Generator . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17
3.1 Short Description . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17
3.2 Overall Calculation Parameter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19
3.3 Specifying Dimension of Tables . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20
3.4 Sediment Transport Conditions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20
3.4.1 Sediment Description . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21
3.4.2 Additional Sediment Parameters . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22
3.5 Output Specifications . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23
3.6 Overview and Simulation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23
4 Profile Evolution . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25
4.1 Profile Selection . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25
4.1.1 Cross-shore profile . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26
4.2 Climatic Description . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27
4.2.1 Profile Evolution Hydrodynamics . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28
4.3 Simulation Period . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29
4.4 Global Wave Conditions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30
4.4.1 Spectral description of waves . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30
4.5 Sediment Transport Tables . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 31
4.6 Structures . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32
4.6.1 Revetment Specification . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 33
4.6.2 Submerged Breakwater Specification . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 33
4.6.3 Initial Beach Nourishment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34
4.7 Output Data Description . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34
4.7.1 Output file description . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 35
4.8 Overview and Simulation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 35

5 Profile Evolution Examples . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 37
5.1 A Simple Example: Development of a Bar on a Straight Profile . . . . . . . . . 37
5.1.1 Purpose . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 37
5.1.2 Generating the transport tables . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38
5.1.3 Setting up Profile Evolution simulation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 39
5.1.4 Checking the model input . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 42
5.1.5 Doing the actual simulation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 42
5.1.6 Plotting results . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 42
5.1.7 List of data and specification files . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 43
5.2 More Examples . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 43
5.2.1 Influence of submerged breakwater . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 43
5.2.2 Influence of angle of approach . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 44
5.2.3 Influence of cross-shore exchange parameter . . . . . . . . . . . . . 46
5.2.4 Influence of initial slope . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 46
6 Scientific Background . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 49
6.1 Introduction . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 49
6.2 Hydrodynamic Model . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50
6.2.1 Wave transformation and breaking. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50
6.2.2 Surface roller . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 52
6.2.3 Longshore current . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 53
6.2.4 Directional Distribution . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 53
6.2.5 Wave set-up and set-down . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 54
6.3 Quasi 3D Sediment Transport Model . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 56
6.3.1 Time-averaged shear stress distribution . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 56
6.3.2 Eddy viscosity . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 57
6.3.3 Flow velocity profile . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 58
6.3.4 Wave-orbital motion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 58
6.3.5 Sediment transport . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 58
6.4 The cross-shore exchange factor . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 58
6.5 Morphological Model . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 59
6.6 Influence of model parameters . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 59
6.6.1 Influence of slope . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 59
6.6.2 Influence of offshore angle of wave incidence . . . . . . . . . . . . . 60
6.6.3 Influence of natural wave conditions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 60
7 Literature References . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 63
Index . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .65

SCATTER DIAGRAMS

DFS0SCAT is a tool for analysing time series data.

Input time series file
1 DFS0SCAT - Scatter Diagrams

The following describes the LITPACK Tool for Scatter Analysis of time series
data.
It is organised logically following the appearance on the dialog pages.
1.1 Input time series file

On this page you select you input file and which items in the file that you want
to use for the analysis.
Figure 1.1 Definition of input data time series file
You have the option to specify the time series as an old LITPACK wave cli-
mate (with Data type 102). In this case it is assumed that the duration of each
wave event (% of year) is defined in item 1 of the file. The analysis will then
consider the duration of each event in the analysis. And the resulting number
of events for each class is then reflecting the number of seconds the class
properties is taking place instead of the number of timesteps in the input file.
1.2 Subseries Selection

This page allows you to select a specific temporal subset of the input data
you want to include in your analysis. The analyses are calculated over time,
so selecting the subseries will influence the results.
Typically you probably want to process the whole period.

DFS0SCAT - Scatter Diagrams
Figure 1.2 Selection of subseries
1.3 Class Delimiters

On this page you define the dimension of the classes that the time series data
is to be sorted into.
Figure 1.3 Definition of class properties
Minimum Value
The minimum value defines the start of each class table.

Output Data Description
Interval
The interval defines the step by which each dimension is divided.
No. Interval
The number of intervals defines the range of the classes.
Note:
All values below the minimum value will be sorted into the first class and all
values above the maximum value will be sorted into the last class.
For example, if you select to sort wave directions between 90 degrees and
270 degrees at 10 degrees intervals, then all directions in the input time
series that are between 0 degrees and 89 degrees will be assigned 90
degrees and directions that are between 270 degrees and 360 degrees will
be assigned 270 degrees.
1.4 Output Data Description

On this page you specify the name(s) of the simulation output files you want
to generate.
The default output file is an ascii file containing the resulting scatter diagrams
from the analysis.
As an option you can choose to create an additional list of valid events

classes, each defined by the class delimiters and the number of events.
Figure 1.4 Definition of output data files

DFS0SCAT - Scatter Diagrams
1.5 Overview
The overview page presents you a summary of all the input parameters you
have specified. You should inspect that the parameters are correct and if not
go back and change them.
From the page you can either Finish the setup which will transfer your setup
definition to the current toolbox file or execute the setup.
Figure 1.5 Overview dialog

P R O F I L E E V O L U T I O N TO O L S

2 Introduction to Profile Evolution Tools
The Profile Evolution tool simulates the storm profile response and the
response of beach nourishment to storm conditions.
The model behind the Profile Evolution tool describes the cross-shore profile
changes based on a time series of wave events. The model is based on the
assumption that longshore gradients in hydrodynamic- and sediment condi-
tions are negligible and that the depth contours are parallel to the coastline.
Thus the coastal morphology is solely described by the cross-shore profile.
Through successive calls to a sediment transport program the Table Genera-

tor tool calculates and tabulates transport rates for an envelope of the hydro-
dynamic conditions.
At the offshore boundary time varying wave conditions are specified in terms
of wave height, mean wave period and mean wave direction.
Wave transformation across the profile is calculated including the effects of
shoaling, refraction, bed friction and wave breaking.
In case of oblique wave attach, the longshore current is calculated from the
wave induced radiation stress gradients. The vertical variation of turbulence,
shear stress and mean flow is calculated taken into account the effects of
assymetry of the wave orbital motion, mass flux in progressive waves, sur-
face rollers and the wave setup.
The assumption of uniform conditions along the shore imply a mean zero
cross-shore discharge.
Sediment transport is calculated from an intra-wave hydrodynamic model

where the time evolution of the bed boundary layer is resolved.
The bed level change is described by the continuity equation for the sedi-
ment:
z- 1 q
----- = – ------------ --------s (2.1)
t 1 – n x
where z is the bed level, qs is the cross-shore transport and n is the porosity
of the bed material.

Introduction to Profile Evolution Tools

Short Description
3 Table Generator
3.1 Short Description

The Profile Evolution tool determines the net sediment transport and the bed
level change across the profile for a given wave height and water level.
To reduce the time for simulating profile evolution the value of the local sedi-
ment transport rate, qs (0, H, H/D, T, dD/dY, Diss, V) is tabulated for an enve-
lope of hydrodynamic conditions:
0 Deep water wave angle
H Wave height
H/D Wave height - water depth ratio
T Wave period
dD/dY Bed slope
Diss Dissipation rate
V Longshore current
During profile evolution calculations, the transport rates are then found by
interpolation in the tables established beforehand by the Table Generator
rather than calculating the sediment transport for each grid point each time.
The tables are generated by successive calls to the basic sediment transport
program, STPQ3D, and input includes the usual input to calculating sand
transport in a point.
The definition of the coordinate system orientation causes the input bed
slopes to be mainly positive (the bed slope is defined as positive uphill
towards the shore), see Figure 3.1.

Table Generator
Figure 3.1 Definition of coordinate system in Table Generator
The generated tables are automatically oriented as the Profile Evolution tool
demands, i.e. with the x-axis pointing towards the shore.
Since the calculations involved in the process of creating the tables may take
several minutes, or even hours, the tables corresponding to the examples are
provided with the installation. However, it is a good idea that you follow the
instructions below in order to become familiar with the procedure required to
create the sediment transport tables for the Profile Evolution Tool. When
doing so, please note that the Table Generator does not overwrite existing
tables, so you will have to rename those provided with the installation, or
move them to another directory.

Overall Calculation Parameter
3.2 Overall Calculation Parameter
Figure 3.2 Specifying wave theory
First you specify which wave theory to use in the sediment transport calcula-
tions. You have several options to describe the wave:
 Stokes Theory, 1st-5th Order

 Cnoidal Theory, 1st-5th Order
 Vocoidal Wave Theory
 Isobe & Horikawa
 Doering & Bowen
The program will internally check if the wave theory is valid for the given con-
ditions and if not, choose an alternative theory.

Table Generator
3.3 Specifying Dimension of Tables
Figure 3.3 Specifying dimension of transport tables
You must specify the dimensions of the table. For each parameter you define
the number of values and the minimum and maximum value. Select the val-
ues to cover the given hydrodynamic conditions that you may have to use
during the simulation of the profile evolution.
Note: The table only describes half the waves as the model assumes the
table to be symmetric around 0 degrees.
- Deep water wave angle = 0: waves are perpendicular to the shoreline
- Deep water wave angle = 90: waves are parallel to the shoreline
3.4 Sediment Transport Conditions

This dialog contains information about the grain characteristics, the ripple
characteristics and some basic sediment transport parameters.

Sediment Transport Conditions
Figure 3.4 Specifying sediment transport conditions
3.4.1 Sediment Description
The sediment drift calculation may be carried out and based on either a “uni-
form” grain description or a “graded” grain description.
Uniform sediment
By the uniform sediment description the sediment drift calculations will be
based on the mean grain diameter d50 and mean fall velocity.
Graded sediment
By the graded sediment description the sediment drift calculations will be
based on the size of the grains that actually have the possibility to come into
suspension.
The grains will be divided into a number of fractions, each described by a

representative grain diameter. The calculation of these are based on a log-
normal grain curve characterized by the mean grain diameter d50 and the
sediment spreading. The fall velocity for each of the representative grain
diameters is calculated based on the water temperature.
Ripples
The effect of ripples on the bed on the bed shear stresses may be included.
The four constants C1, C2, C3 and C4 are for assessing the dimensions and
the effect of wave ripples, if any. It is normally not recommended to change
the default values.

Table Generator
3.4.2 Additional Sediment Parameters
On this dialog you define some basic calculation parameters for the simula-
tion.
Figure 3.5 Definition of calculation parameters
Critical Shields Parameter

The critical dimensionless Shields Parameter is normally found in the range
0.04-0.06. The default value is 0.045.
Calculation Parameters
The calculation parameters reflects the accuracy of the calculation. The toler-
ance and maximum no. of periods are used for the iterative calculation of the
sediment transport profile. The number of steps per period reflects the deter-
ministic inter period approach.
Convective Terms
The effect of convective terms may be included.
Bed Concentration
The bed concentration may be determined by a deterministic approach or by
an empirical formula. Please see the Littoral Processes FM Scientific Docu-
mentation for further description.

Output Specifications
3.5 Output Specifications
Figure 3.6 Specifying output sediment transport tables
The resulting sediment transport table is divided in two parts, so the cross-
shore and longshore sediment transport capacity is saved in separate tables.
The output tables contains the sediment transport capacity (solid volume
rate) for each combination of the parameters in the table.
You have to specify a name for the table. The file will have a default extension
of ‘.dat’, but other extensions will work.
You may also specify a title to describe the contents in the table.
3.6 Overview and Simulation

Overview
A summary of the input parameters for the model is listed in the grayed win-
dow. You can use the vertical scroll-bar to review the input and check it for
logical errors.
Execute
This button activates the actual simulation of the model setup. If the input
parameters have been changed, an input file name is asked for beforehand.
Table Generation
When the execution is finished, you should inspect the file just created (it is a
normal ASCII file) for verification.

Table Generator
Note that transport rates equal to 0.0 for high values of both wave height and
ratio height/depth may indicate that the particular event cannot be calculated
because of the combination of input parameters being outside a realistic
range.
Having created the sediment transport table, you are now ready to use the
Profile Evolution tool.

Profile Selection
4 Profile Evolution
4.1 Profile Selection
Figure 4.1 Selection of cross-shore profile
First you have to select the cross-shore profile and profile specific parame-
ters.
The cross-shore profile is described by a line series file with 5 items for his-
toric reasons. Only the first only the first two (or three) items are necessary to
specify.
A description of the file representing the cross-shore profile can be found in

Section 4.1.1, Cross-shore profile.
Optional the bathymetry of a clay layer may be inserted in item 3, replacing

the mean grain diameter (see Non-erodible layer).
Orientation
Having selected the profile, the orientation of the profile is given. It is possible
to change the angle for quick sensitivity tests, but not advisable.
Cross-shore grid spacing

The grid spacing of the cross-shore profile may be refined in the calculations.
Per default the grid spacing given for the input profile is used in the calcula-
tions, but it is possible to define a different grid spacing to be used for the cal-
culations.

Profile Evolution
Non-erodible layer
It is possible to define a non-erodible layer in the profile. If such a layer is
included, its level is obtained from item 3 in the cross-shore profile file.
Energy loss due to bed friction

In cases of long and shallow beach profiles the energy loss due to bed friction
and its effect on the wave propagation is not negligible.
The energy loss due to the bed friction is calculated from the bottom bound-
ary layer model where the bed roughness and hydrodynamic conditions are
used as input.
4.1.1 Cross-shore profile
This file describes the shape and properties of a cross-shore profile.
The profile origin is positioned at a chosen water depth, approaching the

shoreline along an axis which is perpendicular to the depth contours. The
cross-shore profile is described by a line series data file with 5 items:
1. Bathymetry (m)
2. Bed roughness (m)
3. Non-erodible bed (m)
4. Mean grain diameter, d50 (mm)
5. Geom. Spreading ((d84/d16))
Data Type parameter = 101
This type of file is obligatory input for the profile evolution tool. The file format
can be created from the profile series template ‘Cross-shore Profile’.
NOTE: The orientation of the profile, 0 (deg.N), is saved in custom block 1 in

the file when the data file is created in the profile editor using the Cross-shore
profile template. See Figure 4.2 for description of the profile orientation.

Climatic Description
Figure 4.2 Definition of profile orientation
4.2 Climatic Description
Figure 4.3 Selection of wave climate
You have to specify the hydrodynamic conditions at a certain reference

depth. The wave climate for the Profile Evolution tool is described in a time
series data file that contains 5 items.
The reference depth describes the condition where the wave conditions are
valid. The depth may be larger than is present in the cross-shore profile, but it
is not advisable to have a smaller depth than the one defined in the first grid
point of the profile.

Profile Evolution
A description of the file representing the wave climate is given in the following
section.
4.2.1 Profile Evolution Hydrodynamics
This file describes the wave- and water level conditions during a period of
time.
The climate is described by a time series data file with 6 items:
1. Time (hours)
2. Wave height, Hrms (m)
3. Wave direction (deg. N)
4. Wave period, Tz (s)
5. Spreading factor n or DSD
6. Mean water level (m)
Data type parameter = 107
This type of file is obligatory input for the profile evolution tool. The file format
can be created from the profile series template ‘Profile Evolution Hydrody-
namics.
NOTE: Item 1 contains the time increment in hours for the wave climate. I.e.
the value for the first time step must be 0 and the following time steps
increasing in order.
NOTE: Item 5 contains either the directional spreading index, n, or the direc-
tional standard deviation, DSD (deg). The type is defined as an input parame-
ter.

Simulation Period
4.3 Simulation Period
Figure 4.4 Specifying simulation period
You have to specify the simulation period and some runtime parameters.
Start time/End time

This is the start time and end time for the simulation of profile development.
The conditions at start time and end time have to be described by the time
series file for the wave climate.
Maximum morphological time step

This value expresses the maximum time interval between the update of the
bathymetry.
The model calculates the morphological time step automatically. If you wish,
you can define an upper limit of this time step.
Maximum angle of bed slope

This is the maximum angle of the bed slope can have the bathymetry is mod-
ified due to slope failure. The recommended value is 20 to 30 degrees.
Scale parameter
The scale parameter scale is a calibration factor which reflects the cross-
shore exchange of momentum and is proportional to a characteristic length
scale over which the transport is smoothed. It will to some degree affect the
shape of the developing bars. The higher value, the longer bars.
There is a large degree of uncertainty connected with this parameter.

Profile Evolution
4.4 Global Wave Conditions
Figure 4.5 Specifying global wave conditions
You have to specify how the waves are to be described in the model.
The model is applicable with both regular waves and irregular waves. See
section below for further description.
Roller coefficient factor Beta

This coefficient describes the relation between the energy dissipation rate
and the surface roller area, see Dally & Brown (1995)/5/. Here the default
value of Beta is generally set to 0.15, also for irregular waves although the
value in the latter case usually is much smaller.
Directional spreading parameter

The directional spreading parameter is given as item 5 in the wave climate
file. It is here you specify how to interpret the value.
4.4.1 Spectral description of waves
Regular waves
In case of regular waves, the propagation of waves is calculated according to
linear shoaling outside the breakpoint, which is given by the height/depth ratio
of 0.8. Inside the surfzone the wave height variation is calculated according to
an empirical model for wave decay:
 Type 1 refers to the theory of Andersen & Fredsøe /1/

 Type 2 refers to the theory of Dally et. al /6/

Sediment Transport Tables
The wave breaking parameters Gamma1 and Gamma2 is set implicitly by the
program.
Irregular waves
In case of irregular waves, the model of Battjes & Janssen (1978)/2/ is used.
The wave breaking parameters, Gamma1 and Gamma2, must be specified.
The recommended values are 0.88 and 0.8, for Gamma1 and Gamma2
respectively.
If Gamma2 is set to 0, the model will automatically calculate the value

according to Battjes & Stive (1984)/3/.
4.5 Sediment Transport Tables
Figure 4.6 Defining the tables containing sediment transport capacities.
In this dialog you specify parameters and file names regarding the sediment
transport.
Morhological Feedback Option

You have the possibility to disable the update of the profile bathymetry, so the
simulations of the sediment transport rates are carried out on the same cross-
shore profile. The time step is taken equal to the time step in the climate file.
Transport Mode
You have the possibility to specify which transport directions you want to
include in the calculations. In case you enable profile evolution the cross-
shore transport must be enabled.

Profile Evolution
Transport Table Name

This is the name of the file containing the sediment transport table in the
cross-shore direction and longshore direction, respectively.
Sediment porosity
The sediment porosity is included in the calculations of the sediment trans-
port rates as the transport capacities in the sediment transport tables are
given in solid volumes. The recommended value is 0.4.
4.6 Structures
Figure 4.7 Definition of modifications to the natural profile
In this dialog you have the possibility to define non-erodible structures like a
revetment and/or a submerged breakwater. Furthermore you can include the
description of beach nourishment, where the cross-shore profile bathymetry
is altered initially.
Note that the location of a structure is defined as the distance (in meters)
from the grid point 0 in the cross-shore profile.

Structures
4.6.1 Revetment Specification
Figure 4.8 Definition of revetment
A revetment is defined by the starting grid position from where the bed is
assumed to be non-erodible, to the end of the profile.
4.6.2 Submerged Breakwater Specification
Figure 4.9 Definition of submerged breakwater
A submerged breakwater is defined by the location of the breakwater crest

centre, the depth of the breakwater crest (below MSL) and the width of the
breakwater crest. Furthermore the seaward and landward slope of the break-
water must be specified.

Profile Evolution
4.6.3 Initial Beach Nourishment
Figure 4.10 Definition of initial beach nourishment
This option allows you to quickly assess the behaviour of beach nourishment
on an existing beach profile. The nourishment can be defined either by vol-
ume per m beach length or by initial extended beach width.
The initial profile of the nourished beach is defined by the height of the nour-
ishment above MWL and the initial submerged beach slope.
4.7 Output Data Description
Figure 4.11 Description of output data

Overview and Simulation
Output Data
The output data file is described by the file name. The title description is writ-
ten in written in the result file. A more detailed description of the items in teh
file is given in the following section.
Output Frequency
The output frequency defines the number of simulation hours between out-
put.
The output interval must not be larger than the simulation period.
4.7.1 Output file description
The line series file (dfs1) describes the simulated cross-shore profile, hydro-
dynamic conditions and sediment transport rates across the profile in time.
1. Bathymetry (m)
2. Longshore Velocity (m/s)
3. Hrms wave height (m)
4. Water level (m)
5. Cross-shore transport rate (m3/s/m)
6. Longshore transport rate (m3/s/m)
7. Integrated cross-shore transport rate (m3/m)
8. Integrated longshore transport rate (m3/m)
DATA TYPE Parameter = 120
4.8 Overview and Simulation

Overview
A summary of the input parameters for the model is listed in the window. You
can use the vertical scroll-bar to review the input and check it for logical
errors.
Execute
This button activates the actual simulation of the model setup. If the input
parameters have been changed, an input file name is asked for beforehand.

Profile Evolution

A Simple Example: Development of a Bar on a Straight Profile
5 Profile Evolution Examples

One of the best ways of learning how to use a numerical model is through
practice. Therefore we have included some applications which you can go
through yourself and which you can modify in order to see what happens if
this or that parameters is changed.
The first section in this chapter describes a simple application in order to get
you started. The “what key to press” procedure for going through this exam-
ple is given in great detail (what to select in the different menus).
The following section contains a series of simple examples to illustrate the

behaviour of the model with respect to changes in parameter settings.
The specification data files for the examples as well as the setups are
included with the installation.
5.1 A Simple Example: Development of a Bar on a Straight Profile
5.1.1 Purpose
This first example has been chosen to introduce you to the Table Generator
tool and Profile Evolution tool.
In this example the development of a bar on a straight profile during a period

of uniform wave conditions is simulated. No structures are present.
The test conditions are:
 The cross-shore profile (see Figure 5.1) has a uniform slope with a gradi-
ent of 0.05, defined from the depth of 6.5 m up to 1 m above mean water
level. The orientation of the beach normal is 90 deg. N.
 The grain material in the area is assumed uniform with a mean grain
diameter d50= 0.2 mm and corresponding fall velocity of 0.022 m/s.
 At 20 m depth the wave conditions are uniform for a period of 24 hours.
The wave height is 1 m, the wave is propagating from 90 deg. N, the
wave period being 6 s. The waves are irregular.
Additional information required by the model is:
 The grid spacing for the initial profile is selected to be 1 meter.

 The wave theory is chosen as Stokes 1st order theory
 Bed concentration is described by deterministic theory and ripples are
not included

Profile Evolution Examples
Figure 5.1 Initial cross-shore profile
5.1.2 Generating the transport tables
Before simulating the evolution of the profile, it is necessary to generate a

transport table to use as input. The Table Generator tool is applied for this.
You start the Table Generator tool by opening the LITPACK Toolbox editor
from the MIKE Zero shell and select the Profile Evolution tool ‘Table Genera-
tor’.
 Press New and specify a name for the setup. Press Next.
 Set the wave theory to Stokes 1st order. Press Next.
 The dimension of the transport table is defined as shown in Figure 5.2,
covering the given wave condition in the example. Press Next.

Figure 5.2 Dimension of small sediment transport table.
 Define the sediment description as ‘Single’ and use the default values,
0.2 mm and 0.022 m/s as mean grain diameter and fall velocitiy, respec-
tively. Exclude ripples. Press Next.
 Specify the names of the transport tables to cross.dat and long.dat, for
the cross-shore and longshore transport direction, respectively. Press
Next.
 The overview page allows you to use the vertical scroll-bar to review the
input and check it for logical errors. You can save the model setup by
pressing Finish and then save the LITPACK Toolbox setup. You may
also press Execute to create the transport table.
 Press Execute to generate the sediment transport tables for the present
example
 Once the tables have been generated, save the Toolbox file.
5.1.3 Setting up Profile Evolution simulation
You start the Profile Evolution tool by opening the LITPACK Toolbox editor.
Select the Profile Evolution tool ‘Profile Evolution’.
Press New and specify a name for the setup.
First you select your cross-shore profile, see Figure 5.3.

Figure 5.3 Profile selection
Here you select the profile data file ‘barprof.dfs1’, which is situated in the
directory containing the example. The profile orientation (Angle of Normal to
coast) is set by default as the orientation set in the profile data file, here as
90 deg.N. The Cross-shore Grid Spacing is set to 1.0 m. Press Next to
accept the values and continue.
The wave climate (hydrodynamic parameters) is specified in the Time

Dependencies Specification Dialog, see Figure 5.4.
Figure 5.4 Specifying the hydrodynamic conditions

Select the wave climate to ‘climate.dfs0’. Press next to accept the input and
continue to the dialog defining the simulation period and runtime parameters,
see Figure 5.5.
Figure 5.5 Specification of simulation period and runtime parameters
The wave condition will be simulated for 24 hours from a starting date of
1990/01/01 00:00:00 to 1990/01/02 00:00:00
The runtime parameters, Maximum Morphological Timestep, Maximum

Angle of Bed Slope and Scale Parameter is set to the default values, 1800
s, 30 deg and 1, respectively.
On the next dialog, Specify Global Wave Conditions, the waves are chosen
as irregular and the default values are chosen.
In the dialog Sediment transport Description you have to specify the name of
the transport tables. Select Only cross-shore transport and type cross.dat
for the cross-shore sediment transport table to specify the table previously
generated. Also specify the name of the longshore transport table, even if it is
not to be used.
No structures or sediment nourishment is to be included, you proceed to the

Output Data Specification Dialog.
For the line series file containing the results you specify the name
‘.\bar.dfs1’. As the title of the output you may type Profile Development.
Specify an Output Interval of 6.0 hrs. Press Next at the bottom of the dialog
to accept the input.

5.1.4 Checking the model input
As you have now specified the model setup, a summary of the whole model
setup are listed on the Overview Page, see Figure 5.6.
Figure 5.6 Overview of input and execution
You can use the vertical scroll-bar to review the input and check it for logical
errors.
5.1.5 Doing the actual simulation
When you are satisfied with the model setup, you can start the actual simula-
tion by pressing the Execute button.
When the job has finished (the time required will depend on your computer)
press OK and Finish. Save the Toolbox file. You should check the log file.
This file contain the relevant input parameters and the output data file statistic
information.
5.1.6 Plotting results
You can use the MIKE Zero Plot Composer to plot the results from the simula-
tion.
In the present example you may e.g. plot the initial profile and the resulting
bathymetry as shown in Figure 5.7.

More Examples
Figure 5.7 Morphological evolution during 24 hours
The plot shows the resulting morphology after 24 hours. A bar with a crest
depth around 1.4 m, 55 m from shore has emerged. The position of the bar
corresponds to where the most waves are breaking.
5.1.7 List of data and specification files
The pre-generated setups ‘Transport Table’ and ‘Bar’ from the specification
file ‘Tool_ProfileEvolution.lpkt’ were used for running the simulations.
The following data files are supplied with the installation:
 File: barprof.dfs1 (cross-shore trench profile data)

 File: climate.dfs0 (wave and current conditions)
The following transport table files are supplied with the installation:
 File: cross.dat (cross-shore sediment transport)

 File: long.dat (longshore sediment transport)
Please note that in order not to over write the specification file, you should
copy it over to your own data directory.
5.2 More Examples
5.2.1 Influence of submerged breakwater
Purpose of the example

The purpose of this example is to determine the influence of the presence of
a submerged breakwater on the profile development.

The model setup resembles the one in the previous example, apart from the
inclusion of a submerged breakwater.
The breakwater is defined at gridpoint no. 100, the width of the crest is 20 m
and the top of the crest is 1 m below the water surface. The seaward slope
and landward slope of the breakwater are 1.5 and -0.5, respectively.
Profile evolution
The resulting cross-shore profile after 24 hours of development is shown in

Figure 5.8.
Figure 5.8 Cross-shore profile with submerged breakwater. Initial and resulting
profile after 24 hours.
The profile after 24 hours is seen to differ from the situation without a sub-
merged breakwater. In this specific case, the breakwater has somewhat
dampened the evolution of the profile.
List of data and specification files
The pre-generated setup ‘Submerge’ from the specification file ‘Tool_Pro-

fileEvolution.lpkt’ was used for running the simulation.
The applied data files and transport table files are the same as the ones in the
previous example.
5.2.2 Influence of angle of approach
Purpose of example
The purpose of this exercise is to illustrate the effect of waves approaching
the coastline with a different angle. An angle of 30 deg. to the coast-normal is
chosen in this example - all other parameters but the wave angle are the

More Examples
same as in the first example A Simple Example: Development of a Bar on

a Straight Profile.
Profile evolution
The profile after 24 hours with coast-normal waves and with oblique waves
are compared in Figure 5.9.
Figure 5.9 Cross-shore profile after 24 hours in the case of oblique and coast-nor-
mal wave incidence.
The oblique waves induce a bar which is located further offshore. This is
mainly due to the effect of shoaling and refraction. In general the bar will be
furthest away from the coast for wave angles close to 45 degrees to shore
normal.

The pre-generated setup ‘Angle’ from the specification file ‘Tool_ProfileEvolu-
tion.lpkt’ was used for running the simulation.
The applied data files and transport table files are the same as the ones in the
previous example apart from the climate file.
The following wave climate data file was used:
 File: climate_30deg.dfs0 (wave climate)

5.2.3 Influence of cross-shore exchange parameter
Purpose of example
The purpose of this exercise is to illustrate the effect of the choice of the hori-
zontal cross-shore exchange parameter ALFA. Apart from the ALFA parame-
ter all other parameters are the same as in the first example A Simple
Example: Development of a Bar on a Straight Profile.
Profile evolution
In Figure 5.10, profiles after 24 hours is shown for different settings of the
exchange parameter ALFA = 0.3, 0.6, 1.0 and 1.5. It is seen that the higher
value, the longer and lower crested the bars will get.
Figure 5.10 Cross-shore profile after 24 hours for different settings of the cross-
shore exchange parameter.

The pre-generated setups ‘Scale-0_3’, Scale-0_6’ and ‘Scale-1_5’ from the
specification file ‘Tool_ProfileEvolution.lpkt’ were used for running the simula-
tion.
5.2.4 Influence of initial slope
Purpose of example
The purpose of this exercise is to illustrate the effect beach slope. Two simu-
lations are compared: beach slopes of 1/40 and 1/80, respectively.

More Examples
Profile evolution
In Figure 5.11, profiles after 7 days are shown for different initial slopes. It is
seen that the milder slope the slower the morphological processes are. This
is reasonable as the development of the profile is related to the local gradi-
ents in wave height and hence sediment transport.
Figure 5.11 Cross-shore profile after 7 days for two different slopes.

The pre-generated setups ‘Slope-40’ and ‘Slope-80’ from the specification file
‘Tool_ProfileEvolution.lpkt’ were used for running the simulation.
The following bathymetry files were applied:
 File: barprof_40.dfs1 (initial condition)

 File: barprof_80.dfs1 (initial condition)
All other settings are as in A Simple Example: Development of a Bar on a

Straight Profile.


Introduction
6 Scientific Background
6.1 Introduction
The aim of this scientific background is to provide the user with a more
detailed description of the theory and methods used in the Profile Evolution
tool than is supplied in other sections of the manual. To enable an improved
understanding, a few terms which are used in the documentation will be
briefly described.
The Profile Evolution calculations are based on a coordinate system in which

the x-axis is a line running normal to the coastline along the cross-shore pro-
file, while the y-axis runs parallel to the primary coastline orientation, see
Figure 6.1.
Figure 6.1 Definition of coordinate system
During the last decades, much effort has been put in the description of sedi-
ment transport due to currents and waves in the nearshore zone. A review of
the most important developments is given by Fredsøe & Deigaard in /21/. In
this model the cross-shore profile evolution is simulated by a deterministic
description of the sediment transport by including the effects of oblique wave
attack and the interaction of the motion with currents in any direction on the
time varying hydrodynamic forces, the turbulence, the mean flow properties
and the resulting sediment transport.
The net cross shore transport is a result of two opposing meachanisms.

Firstly, the non-linearity of the wave motion in shallow water gives rise to
higher values of the bed shear stress under the wave crest than under the

Scientific Background
wave trough in case of pure wave motion. This results in a net onshore sedi-
ment transport. Secondly, the time averaged current near the bed is usually
directed offshore (undertow). Further away from the bed the mean flow grad-
ually changes from off shore near the bed to onshore near the water surface.
Due to the higher sediment concentrations near the bed, this results in a net
offshore sediment transport due to the mean current.
6.2 Hydrodynamic Model

In these calculation it is assumed that the conditions along the shore are uni-
form. The vertical variation of shear stress, turbulence, flow and sediment
transport is calculated from the quasi-3D model as explained in section 6.3.
The results of the hydrodynamic model are used as input to the sediment
transport model. The hydrodynamic model is outlined in this section.
6.2.1 Wave transformation and breaking.
Waves entering the nearshore zone are subject to transformation processes

such as refraction, shoaling, breaking and energy loss due to bed friction. In
the Profile Evolution tool, the cross-shore variation of the wave height is cal-
culated from the wave energy equation, which reads:
d
 E cos   = D br + D bf (6.1)
dx f
Here, Ef = wave energy flux,  = angle of wave incidence, x = cross-shore

coordinate. Dbr = dissipation due to wave breaking, and Dbf = energy dissipa-
tion due to bed friction.
The wave energy flux is calculated using linear wave theory:
1 2kh
E f = ------ gH rms c  1 + -------------------------
2
(6.2)
16  sinh  2kh 
Where  = density of water, g = gravitational acceleration, Hrms = root mean

square wave height, c = celerity, k = wave number and h = water depth.
NOTE: the wave conditions at point 0 in the profile should be such that only
insignificant wave breaking will take place.
Irregular waves
For irregular waves the energy dissipation due to wave breaking is calculated
according to Battjes and Janssen (1978)/2/:
gQ b H m 3
Diss = ----------------------
- (6.3)
4Th

Hydrodynamic Model
Here Qb = fraction of breaking waves, Hm = max wave height and T = mean

wave period.
The efficiency factor used in the original work of Battjes and Janssen (1978)
was always taken equal to 1 and is omitted in eq. 2.3. The fraction of breaking
waves, Qb, is calculated from:
1 – Qb H rms 2
---------------- = –  -----------
- (6.4)
lnQ b  Hm 
where Hm is defined as:
 
H m = ---1- tanh  ---2- kh (6.5)
k  1 
The coefficients 1 and 2 are specified at input level and are typically 0.88
and 0.8 respectively.
If Qb>0.001 at the beginning of the profile, Hrms(0) is modified.
Regular waves
If a regular wave description is used, the wave height outside the breaking
zone is calculated from eq. (6.1), where the energy loss due to breaking is
zero. When the ratio H/h exceeds a certain critical ratio, approximately 0.8,
the wave breaking is initiated. The wave height variation inside the breaker
zone is calculated from either Andersen and Fredsøe (1983)/1/ or from Dally
et al (1984)/6/. The model of Andersen and Fredsøe reads:
X
– 0,11 --------
H h br
---- = 0,5 + 0,3  e (6.6)
D
where x = cross-shore distance to the breaking point and hbr = water depth
in the breaking point.
The model of Dally et al (1984)/6/ reads:
K1
d  H 2 h  = – ----- 2 2 2
-   H h – K2 h h  (6.7)
dx h
Here, K1 and K2 are constants in the order of 0.4 and 0.15 respectively
The energy dissipation due to bed friction, using linear wave theory, can be
written as, Fredsøe and Deigaard (1992)/21/:
2 3
Diss b = ------ f w U 1m (6.8)
3

Um = orbital velocity amplitude and fw = wave friction factor, calculated as,

Fredsøe and Deigaard (1992)/21/:
a –1  4
f w = 0,04  ----- (6.9)
 k n
Here, kN = sand roughness defined as 2.5 times the median sediment grain
size, a = amplitude of wave orbital motion.
If Hrms > 0.8D at the beginning of the profile, then Hrms(0) = 0.5D.
6.2.2 Surface roller
In the surf zone, energy is extracted from the organized wave motion and
transformed into turbulence through the development and decay of surface
rollers. Surface rollers are important for cross-shore morphodynamics, mainly
because of the production of turbulence and net mass-flux.
Another important effect of surface rollers is that they cause a space lag
between the location of maximal change in organized wave motion, i.e. the
right hand side of eq. (6.1), and the maximal production of turbulence, which
is important for the strength of the undertow.
The growth or decay of an initial perturbation of the seabed i.e., the initial
development of a breaker bar is determined by the local gradients in sedi-
ment transport, which are affected by the effect of surface rollers. In the pres-
ent model the roller description of Dally and Brown (1995)/5/ is used. If
oblique incident waves are considered, their roller description yields:
d d 1 2A A
 E cos   +  ---  r c ---- cos  =  r g d ---- (6.10)
dx f dx 2 T  T
Here r = density of roller, including air bubbles, A = surface roller area and d
= empirical constant.
Dally and Brown (1995)/5/ determined the coefficient d to be in the order 0.1
to 0.2, based on laboratory experiments with regular waves. If the same val-
ues are used for irregular waves, the predicted roller areas will be too small.
The value of d for irregular waves has not been validated through experi-
ments. A comparison with laboratory experiments of Roelvink and Stive
(1989) indicates a value of d in the order of 0.005, which is considerably
smaller than the recommended value for regular waves. However, further val-
idation will be required.

Hydrodynamic Model
When estimating the value of d it can be helpful to realise that the length
scale by which the roller is adapting the decrease in the organized motion is
given by
Adaptation of roller = h   d (6.11)
Thus, a d-value of say 0.1 would correspond to an adaptation length 10

times the local water depth. Putting d to a high value ‘turns off’ the effect of
gradual adaptation of the roller (i.e. instantaneous growth).
6.2.3 Longshore current
The depth – and time-averaged momentum equation along an infinitely long

uniform beach, exposed to long-crested oblique incident waves, can be writ-
ten as:
dS xy d dV
– –  b +  Eh  = 0 (6.12)
dx dx dx
Here, Sxy = longshore momentum flux, b = bed shear stress, E = cross-shore

momentum exchange factor, and V = longshore current velocity.
In the present model, the longshore momentum flux consists of a contribution

of the organized wave motion and from the surface rollers:
dS xy d  1
= --- E sin  + --1- d   r Ac sin  cos   (6.13)
dx dx c f  Tdx
The exchange factor E is calculated according to Fredsøe and Deigaard

(1992)/21/:
 H rms  h  3
E = h gh ------------------------------
- (6.14)
2
4 02 gT  h
Here 0 = the slope of the interface between the roller and the organized
wave motion and is approximately tan(10°).
6.2.4 Directional Distribution
Given the wave parameters, the directional distribution of the wave energy is
given by
E( i) = E 1 D( i) i = 1 ndir (6.15)

where ndir is the number of discrete directions. Here this number is per
default set to 20.
E1=Hm02/16 is the total energy of the discrete energy spectrum and the direc-
tional distribution function D is defined by
  cosn   m –  i  for m – i  d
D( i) =  (6.16)
 0 for m – i  d
where  is a normalization factor and m is the maximum wave angle. m is

defined as 90 degrees in the Profile Evolution tool.
The directional distribution factor and D() for selected values of the direc-
tional spreading index is shown in Figure 6.2.
Figure 6.2 Directional spreading function D() for n=2,4,6,8 and 64, with n=64 giv-
ing the narrowest directional distribution of the five shown.
6.2.5 Wave set-up and set-down
The wave set-up and set-down are calculated form the time averaged cross-
shore momentum equation included in the calculation of the wave height var-
iation across the shore. The wave height decay and the resulting water level
variations are found by iteration.
Figure 6.3 shows an example of the present hydrodynamic model applied on

a single-barred beach. The deep-water wave height Hrms was taken as 1m
with a mean period of 6 s. The deep-water wave angle was 30 deg. com-
pared to the profile orientation (coast normal). The figure shows the cross-

Hydrodynamic Model
shore variation of the wave height, roller area, dissipation and longshore cur-
rent.
Figure 6.3 Present hydrodynamic model on a single-barred beach

Bottom: Beach profile, wave height and wave set-up
Lower middle: Mass flux in roller
Upper middle: Energy dissipation including rollers
Top: Longshore current velocity

6.3 Quasi 3D Sediment Transport Model

The output from the cross-shore wave and current model is used to calculate
the variation of cross-shore and longshore sediment transport across the pro-
file. The STPQ3D model, which is the core of the sand transport calculation
models in combined waves and currents, is applied to calculate the vertical
variation of shear stress, turbulence, flow, and sediment transport. For a
more detailed description of the scientific background for the sediment trans-
port computations, please refer to the Scientific Documentation for Littoral
Processes FM.
6.3.1 Time-averaged shear stress distribution
In the cross-shore direction, time mean onshore-directed forces, originating

from the asymmetric wave orbital motion (skewness), streaming in the wave
boundary layer and wave breaking, act upon the water column. The waves
induce an onshore mass flux, wave drift, that must be compensated for by a
return current driven by a gradient in the water level (set-up).
In the longshore direction, the net force originating from the gradient in the
longshore momentum flux must be balanced by a mean bed shear stress
from a longshore current.
The different forces acting on the water column are not constant over the
water depth. The forces, related to the wave orbital motion (asymmetric wave
orbital motion and streaming), are confined to the bottom boundary layer,
whereas the forces originating from wave breaking and the cross-shore water
level gradient vary linearly over the entire water column. A detailed descrip-
tion of the shear stress distribution is given in Deigaard and Fredsøe
(1989)/9/ and Deigaard (1993)/10/.
The vertical variation of the time-averaged shear stress (neglecting convec-

tive terms) reads:
1 E  r Ac cos 
 c ,z = – --- f +   ------------------------
- cos  – gS x  h – z  (6.17)
c x x  T 
1 E f    r Ac cos 
 l ,z = – --- + ------------------------- sin  – gS y  h – z  (6.18)
c x x T 
Here Sx and Sy are the cross-shore and longshore gradient in mean water
level respectively and z = elevation above the bed.
The values of S correspond to the water level gradient that gives a predefined
mean discharge and is found by iteration.

Quasi 3D Sediment Transport Model
6.3.2 Eddy viscosity
The eddy viscosity consists of contributions from the wave boundary layer,
the mean flow and from wave breaking at the water surface. The total instan-
taneous eddy viscosity, t,tot, is calculated by adding the three contributions at
the energy level:
 t2,tot =  t2,bl +  t2,c +  t2,br (6.19)
The eddy viscosity in the boundary layer, t,bl, is assumed to vary parabolic
across the boundary layer and is calculated as:
z
 t ,bl = U f  t z  1 – --------- (6.20)
   t 
Here Uf (t) = Instantaneous shear velocity and (t) = instantaneous boundary

layer thickness.
The eddy viscosity originating from the mean flow, t,c , is calculated from a
mixing length formulation:
2 dU
 t ,c = l -------- (6.21)
dz
Here U = mean flow velocity and l = mixing length defined here as l=z(1-
z/h).
The contribution from wave breaking at the water surface is calculated from a
one –equation model for the transport of turbulent kinetic energy, Deigaard et
al (1986)/7/:
k-  l k k 1 k k
----- = – ------  -------- ------ + --- PROD – C l ---------- (6.22)
t z   k z  l
Here k = turbulent kinetic energy
The eddy viscosity is related to the turbulent kinetic energy as t,br=lk1/2.

Standard values for o = 1 and Cl = 0.08 have been used. The production
term PROD is obtained from the total energy dissipation as calculated from
the wave model. The production of turbulent kinetic energy was assumed to
be parabolic in time and space, see Deigaard et al (1986)/7/ for a detailed
description.

6.3.3 Flow velocity profile
The time averaged flow velocity profile is calculated from:
d 
U = -------------- (6.23)
dz  t ,tot
The no-slip condition at the bed is used as boundary condition. The instanta-
neous flow velocity profiles are calculated from the model for the turbulent
boundary layer for combined wave-current motion, Fredsøe (1984)/19/.
Inside the wave boundary layer, the flow velocities are assumed logarithmic.
Outside the boundary layer the instantaneous flow velocity profiles are
obtained by adding the wave orbital motion to the time averaged flow velocity.
6.3.4 Wave-orbital motion
The wave orbital motion can be calculated from the model of Isobe and Hori-
kawa (1982)/22/, that was adjusted with regard to the velocity skewness.
Elfrink et al (1999)/15/ analyzed the effect on velocity skewness and found
that its effect on cross-shore sediment transport is of equal importance as
other cross-shore mechanisms such as the undertow. Doering and Bowen
(1995)/12/ derived a parameterized expression for velocity skewness as a
function of the Ursell parameter. Doering et al. (2000)/14/ extended this work
and included the effect of the bed slope on the velocity skewness. In the pres-
ent model, velocity skewness is derived from general wave parameters
(height, period) and morphological parameters (water depth, bed slope) using
the expression of Doering et al (2000).
6.3.5 Sediment transport
Bed-load transport is calculated from the instantaneous bed shear stress,

using the model of Engelund and Fredsøe (1976)/18/. The effect of the bed
slope on the critical Shields parameter is included. Suspended sediment con-
centrations are calculated from the diffusion equation for suspended sedi-
ment, Fredsøe et al. (1985)/20/, where the sediment diffusivity is taken equal
to the eddy viscosity as calculated from eq. (6.19).
6.4 The cross-shore exchange factor

Processes associated with momentum and sediment exchange in the hori-
zontal direction will add a horizontal diffusion effect to the resulting transport.
A clear example of this is the effect around a break point for a regular wave,
where the flow and sediment transport will be smoothly distributed around the
break point although the wave forcing is rather abrupt. Diffusive effects will
also be present in the case of irregular waves and should be included in the
general case.

Morphological Model
Diffusive effects are taken into account using a redistribution concept to

smooth out large gradients in the transport field. The resulting diffusive effect
of the horizontal exchange processes is associated with a characteristic
length scale over which the transport is smoothed. In the Profile Evolution
tool, the length scale is assumed to be proportional to the local wave length,
with a cross-shore exchange factor scale (the Scale parameter).
2
Length scale of cross-shore mixing =  scale  ------ (6.24)
k
The exchange factor scale is a calibration factor which to some degree will
affect the shape of the developing bars. The higher value, the longer bars.
The horizontal exchange process furthermore has a positive influence on the
numerical solution, smoothing out high frequent false oscillations without
adding numerical diffusivity to the solution.
There is a large degree of uncertainty connected with this parameter.
6.5 Morphological Model

The continuity equation for the seabed reads:
z b 1 q
= – ------------  s x (6.25)
t 1 – n x
Here, zb = bed level, n = porosity and qs,x = cross-shore transport rate.
A forward in time - central in space (FTCS) scheme is applied to solve this

equation. The scheme was proven to work satisfactory for realistic setting of
parameters. The scheme is explicitly stepping forward in time, meaning that
the size of the time step relative to the spatial discretisation is limited by the
migration speed of the bed (Courant-Fredriechs stability criterion). Although
the time step is checked - and reduced internally if necessary - numerical
instabilities may in rare cases emerge if the time step becomes too large. If
such instabilities occur, the time step should be decreased until a stable solu-
tion is obtained.
6.6 Influence of model parameters

To render the validity of the Profile Evolution model different aspects of the
processes involved in profile development is given here.
6.6.1 Influence of slope
On the gentle slope, energy dissipation due to breaking is weak, which

results in a weak undertow. Onshore sediment transport mechanisms such

as streaming and non-linear wave orbital motion are dominant.

On a steeper slope, the offshore-directed transport, induced by the undertow
becomes more important, resulting in erosion in the nearshore zone and the
development of a breaker bar.
For a given grain size, the direction of the cross-shore transport is mainly a
function of the Irribarren number or surf similarity parameter x, defined as the
ratio of the beach slope and the square root of the wave steepness.
For low values, during storms generally offshore transport occurs resulting in
beach erosion.
For high values of x, corresponding to the beach recovery phase after a
storm, the transport is directed onshore, resulting in beach accretion.
6.6.2 Influence of offshore angle of wave incidence
The cross-shore energy flux is lower for oblique waves than for normally inci-
dent waves. This is due to the effect of shoaling and refraction, i.e. normally
the larger wave angle the closer to shore the breaking point will appear, and
thus the position of a bar.
Even though the cross-shore energy flux is lower for oblique waves than for
normally incident waves, the offshore sediment transport can become higher
due to the interaction between the longshore current and the undertow. The
co-existence of a longshore current and the undertow will cause higher levels
of turbulence near the bed, compared to a situation without longshore cur-
rent. This has two opposing effects for cross-shore sediment transport.
Firstly, the vertical gradients of the horizontal flow velocity are lower due to
the increased eddy viscosity. This leads to lower flow velocities near the bed
and slightly higher velocities higher in the water column.
Secondly, due to the increased turbulence near the bed, the suspended sedi-
ment concentrations are higher in the combined undertow-longshore current
motion than for the undertow alone.
6.6.3 Influence of natural wave conditions
As an example a Profile Evolution simulation was carried out for a natural

beach, located approximately 40 km North of the city of Esbjerg along the
western coast of Jutland, Denmark. A period of one month was simulated.
The time history of the wave height and direction are shown in Figure 6.4.

Influence of model parameters
Figure 6.4 Measured offshore wave conditions. Period Jan. 8 1995-Feb 8 1995.
The mean wave height (Hrms) was approximately 1.5 m. Several storm events
occurred during this period where Hrms exceeded 3m. Unfortunately no field
data was available to validate the model's ability to predict profile changes in
time. However, its results can be evaluated in a qualitative way.
The simulated profile and the corresponding transport rates are shown in
Figure 6.5 and Figure 6.6, respectively.
The model simulation shows that the outer bar is not significantly affected by
the stormy conditions. It is questionable whether this bar is formed by wave-
generated transport alone or if other phenomena, such as tides are important
as well.
The middle bar is considerably more affected by wave generated sediment
transport. The crest level is more or less unchanged but the inshore trough
has been eroded with approximately 1m. It has migrated slightly offshore dur-
ing the simulation period.
Erosion in the order of maximal 1.5 m was simulated close to the shoreline. A
new inshore bar has formed at approximately 100 m from the shoreline.

Figure 6.5 Simulated cross-shore profile, SW Jutland Denmark after 31 days.
Figure 6.6 Simulated accumulated cross-shore and longshore transport rates over
a period of 31 days.

7 Literature References
/1/ Andersen, O.H., and Fredsøe, J.(1983): Transport of Suspended
Sediment along the Coast. Progress Report No. 59, ISVA, Techni-
cal University of Denmark.
/2/ Battjes, J.A., and J.P.F.M. Janssen (1978) Energy Loss and Set-Up
due to Breaking of Random Waves. Proc. of the 16th Int. Conf. on
Coastal Eng. pp. 569-587, Hamburg.
/3/ Battjes, J.A., and Stive, M.F. (1985) Calibration and Vertification of a
Dissipative Model for Random Breaking Waves. J. of Geophys.
Res., 90:9159-67, September.
/4/ Brøker, I., Deigaard, R., and Fredsøe, J. (1991). In/offshore sedi-
ment transport and morphological modelling of coastal profiles.
Proc. ASCE Specialty Conf. Coastal Sediments’ 91, Seattle, WA,
pp. 643-657.
/5/ Dally, W.R. and Brown, C.A. (1995) A modeling investigation of the
breaking wave roller with application to cross-shore currents. J. of
Geophys. Researc, Vol. 100, No. C12, pp. 24.873-24.883.
/6/ Dally & Dalrymple (1984) (Wave decay)
/7/ Deigaard, R., Fredsøe, J., and Hedegaard, I.B. (1986) Suspended
sediment in the surf zone, Jour. of Waterway, Port, Coast. and
Ocean Eng., ASCE, Vol. 112, No. 1, pp. 115-128.
/8/ Deigaard, R., Fredsøe, J., and Hedegaard, I.B. (1986) Mathemati-
cal model for littoral drift, Jour. of Waterway, Port, Coast. and Ocean
Eng., ASCE, Vol. 112, No. 3, pp. 351-369.
/9/ Deigaard, R. and Fredsøe, J. (1989) Shear stress distribution in dis-

sipative water waves. Coastal Engineering, ASCE, vol. 13, pp. 357-
378.
/10/ Deigaard, R. (1993) A note on the 3-dimensional shear stress distri-

bution in a surf zone. Coastal Engineering, ASCE, vol. 20, pp. 157-
171.
/11/ Dette, H., Uliczka (1986) 'Seegangserzeugte Wechselwirkung

zwichen Vorland and Vortrand sowie Küstenschutzbauwerk'. Tech-
nischer Bericht Nr. 3, SBF 205/TP A6. Universität Hannover.
/12/ Doering, J.C. and Bowen, A.J. (1995) Parametrization of orbital

velocity asymmetries of shoaling and breaking waves using bispec-
tral analysis, Coastal Engineering (26)1-2, pp. 15-33.
/13/ Doering, J.C., Elfrink, B., Hanes, D.M. and Ruessink, G. (2000)

Literature References
Parameterization of velocity skewness under waves and its effect

on cross shore sediment transport. Proc. 27th Int. Conf. on Coastal
Engineering, ASCE, Sydney.
/14/ Elfrink, B., Brøker, I., Deigaard, R., Hansen, E.A. and Justesen, P.
(1996) Modelling of 3D Sediment Transport in the Surf Zone, Conf.
of Coastal Engineering 1996, Proceedings.
/15/ Elfrink, B. , Rakha, K.A., Deigaard, R. and Brøker, I. (1999) Effect of

near-bed velocity skewness on cross shore sediment transport.
Proc. Coastal Sediments ‘99, pp. 33-47. Long Island - NY, USA.
/16/ Elfrink, B., Brøker, I. and Deigaard, R. (2000) Beach profile evolu-
tion due to oblique wave attack. Proc. 27th Int. Conf. on Coastal
Engineering, ASCE, Sydney.
/17/ Elfrink, B. and Baldock, T. (2002) Hydrodynamics and sediment

transport in the swash zone: a review and perspectives. Coastal
Engineering (45) pp. 149-167.
/18/ Engelund, F. and Fredsøe, J. (1976) A sediment transport model for

straight alluvial channels, Nordic Hydrology, 7, pp. 296-306.
/19/ Fredsøe, J. (1984) The turbulent boundary layer in combined wave-

current motion, Journal of Hydr. Eng., ASCE, Vol. 110, No. HY8, pp.
1103-1120.
/20/ Fredsøe, J., Andersen, O.H., and Silberg, S. (1985) Distribution of

Suspended Sediment in Large Waves. Journal of Waterway, Port,
Coastal and Ocean Engineering, ASCE, Vol. III, No. 6, pp. 1041-
1059.
/21/ Fredsøe, J. and Deigaard, R. (1992) Mechanics of Coastal Sedi-

ment Transport. Advanced Series on Ocean Engineering, Vol. 3,
World Scientific.
/22/ Isobe and Horikawa (1982) Study on water particle velocities of

shoaling and breaking waves, Coast. Eng. in Japan, Vol.25, pp.109-
123.
/23/ J. Buhr Hansen: Air Entrainment in surf zone waves, 3rd Int. Conf.
on Coastal and Port ing. in Developing Countries, Mombasa, Sept
1991.
/24/ M.B. Abbott: Computational Hydraulics, Pitmann Publ. Lim., 1979.

INDEX

Index
B
Breaking coefficients . . . . . . . . . . 51
C
continuity equation . . . . . . . . . . . 59
E
Eddy viscosity . . . . . . . . . . . . . 57
F
Flow velocity . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 58
L
Longshore current . . . . . . . . . . . 53
Q
Quasi 3D . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 56
S
Sediment transport . . . . . . . . . . . 58
shear stress . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 56
Surface roller . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 52
W
wave energy flux . . . . . . . . . . . . 50
Wave set-up . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 54
Wave transformation and breaking . . . 50

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LITPACK Toolbox

Powering Water Decisions MIKE 2022

COPYRIGHT This document refers to proprietary computer software which is pro-

In no event shall DHI or its representatives (agents and suppliers)

This limitation shall apply to claims of personal injury to the extent

Notwithstanding the above, DHI's total liability (whether in contract,

Licensee acknowledge that the liability limitations and exclusions

Powering Water Decisions 3

Profile Evolution Tools . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13

Powering Water Decisions 5

6 LITPACK Toolbox - © DHI A/S

Powering Water Decisions 7

8 LITPACK Toolbox - © DHI A/S

1 DFS0SCAT - Scatter Diagrams

It is organised logically following the appearance on the dialog pages.

1.1 Input time series file

Figure 1.1 Definition of input data time series file

1.2 Subseries Selection

Typically you probably want to process the whole period.

Powering Water Decisions 9

Figure 1.2 Selection of subseries

1.3 Class Delimiters

Figure 1.3 Definition of class properties

10 LITPACK Toolbox - © DHI A/S

1.4 Output Data Description

As an option you can choose to create an additional list of valid events

Figure 1.4 Definition of output data files

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Figure 1.5 Overview dialog

12 LITPACK Toolbox - © DHI A/S

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Through successive calls to a sediment transport program the Table Genera-

Sediment transport is calculated from an intra-wave hydrodynamic model

Powering Water Decisions 15

16 LITPACK Toolbox - © DHI A/S

3.1 Short Description

0 Deep water wave angle

H/D Wave height - water depth ratio

dD/dY Bed slope

Diss Dissipation rate

Powering Water Decisions 17

Figure 3.1 Definition of coordinate system in Table Generator

18 LITPACK Toolbox - © DHI A/S

3.2 Overall Calculation Parameter

Figure 3.2 Specifying wave theory

 Stokes Theory, 1st-5th Order

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3.3 Specifying Dimension of Tables

Figure 3.3 Specifying dimension of transport tables

3.4 Sediment Transport Conditions

20 LITPACK Toolbox - © DHI A/S

Figure 3.4 Specifying sediment transport conditions

3.4.1 Sediment Description

The grains will be divided into a number of fractions, each described by a

Powering Water Decisions 21

3.4.2 Additional Sediment Parameters

Figure 3.5 Definition of calculation parameters

Critical Shields Parameter

22 LITPACK Toolbox - © DHI A/S

3.5 Output Specifications

Figure 3.6 Specifying output sediment transport tables

3.6 Overview and Simulation

Powering Water Decisions 23