Professional Documents
Culture Documents
This work is dedicated to my late husband who supported me as long as he could, and to my
children and grandchildren who provided all the help they could imagine.
ABSTRACT
This work is the result of research in Terengganu (Malaysia) among past and recent personal
documents gathered along four decades (1982 to 2022) of life, and often, research in the state, dedicated
to observation in the fields of floral and built environments. This study on “Places, Plants and People”,
had two main objectives: bear witness of the changes occurred in the landscapes and of their
significance for the people living there. It has led to key findings such as: Disappearances of plants and
cultural and ground features in these environments have been observed. These were verified through a
confirmation is provided of change over the years in the two considered aspects of the environment.
The review discovered as well a resiliency in certain floral and cultural original characteristics of the
state, which could be used as a reference for future decisions towards a development that would present,
not only a memory, but an understanding of and -perhaps- a re-use of the resources from the past.
ABSTRAK
Kerja ini adalah hasil dari kajian di Terengganu (Malaysia) dalam dokumentasi peribadi selama
empat puloh tahun (1982-2022) kehidupan dan -kebanyakan- kajian, yang telah di khususkan kepada
perhatian di dalam bidan sekitaran floral dan seni bina di negeri ini. Kajian ini “Tempat, Tumbuhan dan
Penduduk” di khususkan kepada menyaksikan perubahan dan hakibatnya terhadap penduduk di situ.
Ianya telah membawa kepada penemuan utama seperti: Kehilangan tumbuhan, ciri ciri budaya dan
tanah telah di saksikan di sekitaran ini, yang telah di buktikan melalui gabungan perbandingan data
qualitative (karangan narrative) dan quantitative (inventori). Ini menghasilkan pengesahan pertukaran
dalam kedua ciri ciri sekitaran mengikut masa. Semakan ini menemui juga ketahanan dalam beberapa
sifat asal negeri ini, yang mungkin boleh di gunakan debagai rujukan untuk keputusan keputusan ke
arah pembangunan yang akan memberi, bukan sahaja sebuah ingatan- tetapi mungkin sebuah
Dr. Jarina Jani who relentlessly made efforts to transform my writer’s approach into a more
academic presentation and gave me her time exactly when needed, even when she was on sabbatical
leave.
Dr. Jamilah Salim who gave me encouragements when needed and helped with the proper
And to my volunteer assistants Shahirah Azman and Athirah Lokman for their company and
I certify that an Examination Committee has met on Date Month 2023 to conduct the final
examination of Christine Longuet @ Rohani Abdullah, on her Doctor of Philosophy thesis entitled
“Places, Plants and People in The State of Terengganu, Malaysia: An Assesment From Two Eras”
in accordance with the regulations approved by the Senate of Universiti Malaysia Terengganu. The
Committee recommends that the candidate be awarded the relevant degree. The members of the
Examination Committee are as follows:
………………………, PhD
Associate Professor,
School / Institute,
Universiti Malaysia Terengganu.
(Chairperson)
………………………, PhD
Associate Professor,
School / Institute,
Universiti Malaysia Terengganu.
(Internal Examiner)
………………………, PhD
Associate Professor,
School / Institute,
University
(External Examiner 1)
………………………, PhD
Associate Professor,
School / Institute,
University
(External Examiner 2)
________________________________
MOHD FADZIL BIN MOHD AKHIR,
Phd
Associate Professor / Director
Institute of Oceanography and Environment
Universiti Malaysia Terengganu
Date
This thesis has been accepted by the Senate of Universiti Malaysia Terengganu in fulfilment of the
requirement for the degree of Doctor Philosophy.
________________________________
MOHD FADZIL BIN MOHD AKHIR,
Phd
Associate Professor / Director
Institute of Oceanography and Environment
Universiti Malaysia Terengganu
Date:
DECLARATION
I hereby declare that the thesis is based on my original work except for quotations and citations which
have been duly acknowledged. I also declare that it has not been previously or concurrently submitted
for any other degree at UMT or other institutions.
_________________________
CHRISTINE LONGUET @ ROHANI ABDULLAH
Date:
iii
TABLE OF CONTENT
PAGE
DEDICATION
ACKNOWLEDMENT
ABSTRAK
ABSTRACT
KANDUNGAN
LIST OF TABLES
LIST OF FIGURES
LIST OF ABBREVIATION
1.3.1 Question 12
1.3.2 Assumption of change and hypothesis regarding
civilization 13
314
Ethological structure of the built Environment
5.5.1
317
The landscape and its psyche training role
5.5.2
5.6 Ethologically structuring habitat”: Formatting in the past 322
The holistic interpretation of the Terengganu 322
5.6.1 landscape
Consequence of the Human habitat change: A new
5.6.2 formatting? 323
Summary on the causes and consequences of the
5.6.3 changes 324
Appendix A
LIST OF TABLES
TABLE PAGE
Table of the “visited sites”, in the “Past era”, divided in three areas
Table 1.1 17
according to the relief morphology and human habitat location Or for C3
List of subject matter experts and informants who assisted during field
Table 3.1 56
work
Table 3.2 Extract example of the plant taxa inventory (“Identification”): 587 species 67
Example extracted from the 587” species reference inventory” for:
Table 3.3 “Value”. Note: Abundance status: “=” exist; augmentation: “+”; 68
diminution: - ; disappearance: “0”.
Table 3.4 Surveyed sites in Terengganu and associated features in the “past era” 71
Recapitulation of the many concepts involved in the tradition, from China
Table 4.1 to Greece (1983) The various possible components of the traditional
knowledge.
Summary of the exogenous landscape changes accompanying
Table 5.1 282
development efforts
Extract of the Table Inventory with location and uses, or “Baseline
Table 5.2 284
inventory”.
Extract from the “Recapitulatory inventory of the disappeared species” (In
Table 5.3 286
Appendix A, 2 “Specific”)
Past and present status of the plants, by usage and present pharmaceutical
Table 5.4 287
interest
Extract from the “Table “Frequency of medicinal species from 5 local
different sources, according to various sources of knowledge available in
Table 5.5 Terengganu”. (Complete in Appendix A Specifics…) [ 25 species not 294
mentioned in the Foresters’ “Herba Ubatan” have been added for
reference, from observation and documentation].
Table 5.6 Example of cultural and ground furniture evolution over time 303
Table 5.7 Differences in quantity of cultural features seen over two eras 304
Table 5.8 Three Levels of Change 327
LIST OF FIGURES
FIGURE PAGE
Relief map of Malaysia with the location of Terengganu and the
Figure 1.1 4
North Sud direction of the hills (Polunin, before the Lake Kenyir )
Flow of the Research design and expected conclusions at the
Figure 1.2 27
present stage.
Map of the state of Terengganu with the general location of the
Figure 3.1 53
visited areas and research sites
a) Checking bark pleasant smell of -probably “akar sarsi”-in the
59
Hulu Besut hills
Figure 3.2
b) Botanical sample and medicinal parts of Cinnamomum
59
molissicimum, Vitis cinnamomea, and Polyaltia bullata
a) Traditional Materia medica sold in bulk ready to being brewed
is sorted out by species: Mas secotet, Gajah beranak leaves, Akar 61
Figure 3.3 sarsi stem wood and bark, dedawai tuber, betek hutan root
b) Back from the forest: roots, wood, barks, leaves. to dry and, for
61
some, to be sent to the UM and CNRS laboratories
a) Approach through a local practitioner 1983 63
Figure 3.4
b) With Ayah Wail 1992 or pak Hin 63
Figure 3.5 a) J-C Deverre testing alkaloids, in 1984) 64
b) Large harvest for Dr. Sevenet (CNRS)1985 64
The landscape architecture approach: inventories in these two
compounds have produced a total of 91 medicinal plant species,
Figure 3.6 known as such, but most not used anymore by the inhabitants. (in 65
house compounds A1 -Aristocrats 76 species , and R 3 -Rakyat 3,
15 species)
Figure 4.1 a) Malaysian mountains 79
b) Around the Besut river: Granitic mountains forests, waterfalls,
81
rapids
Figure 4.2 The process of granite hill formation from the earth magma 81
Figure 4.3 a) Batholiths in the high hills region of Terengganu 81
b) Map North of Terengganu with areas of Peda Kapal batholith,
81
Lata Belatan and Lata Tembakah waterfalls scale 1: 260 000
Figure 4.4 In pale blue, the sunk area of the Sunda Shelve 83
Figure 4.5 Geographic paths of the Malaysian medicinal influences 88
The diverse sources of the traditional medicinal knowledge
Figure 4.6 89
encountered in Malaysia and especially Terengganu
Figure 4.7 a) Cut out carvings in Kota Lama Duyong: 91
b) Tridimensional carvings on the House of Tokku Paloh 91
Figure 4.117 Cow and duku tree at the back of the house 207
The new clinic and its garden: Albizia myriophyla, Phaleria
Figure 4.118 nacrocarpa, Abelsmoschus, Pterydophytes and New house in 208
concrete
Figure 4.137
Figure 4.138
The Kenyir Lake with the location the visited sites from 1983 to
Figure 4.141 231
2019
Map of Terengganu, with Kenyir Lake among the hills and the
Figure 4.142 former rivers showing the proportions of the size of the lake 236
among the hilly areas
Map of the area, with rivers and new dam reservoirs indicated in
Figure 4.146 244
the square. (Choy and Hanson 2016)
Figure 4.157 The visitors in front of the View from the top of the new dam 249
Figure 4.167 Floating resort between Lagerstroemia and emerging dead trees 259
Figure 4.176 a) Hellenia speciosus, b) Saok: office trip, c) Lasir waterfall 263
Figure 4.179 Houseboat with Gajah Terum hills at the back 264
Location of the Orang Asli (Bateq) in Kuala Sayap on the Sungai 267
Figure 4.180
Lagos/Ruar
Field location: Sungai Lagos Ulu Besut and Sungai Berua (Semoq 267
Figure 4.181
Beri) on the lake Kenyir
Figure 4.183 Encounter with Nilam the “ketua kampong ”(on the extreme right) 269
their habitat, using the lean-to lab (cf.perhaps pic“lab” only in file)
Figure 4.188 272
Fig. Field preliminary screenings: a) in the Kuala Sayap Orang Asli
village ; b) in the forest, a field lab, by the Lagos stream
Figure 4.191 Buluh Nipis and kampong Setebu in Ulu Telemong . 276
Figure 5.4 Middle East connection, shown at Pasar Manir, Terengganu: 297
Saffra: zakfaran, halba: Hilbeh.
” Kak Long balek Hari ini” Chan Fee Ming (1992) an example of
Figure 5.5 resilience: picture. on the Batu Rakit coast, in a sandy area (2007). 307
Today, pipe with faucet by the stairs and the fall of the jar (2022)
a) “Sail” (Chang Fee Ming, 1987) Batik drying in Pulau Duyong 308
Figure 5.6
b) Stil visiblel: “Ampaian” in the Kampong Setebu Farm, (2022). 308
Dehusker Painting Chang Fee Ming (1996) or “bong” in Bukit
Figure 5.7 309
Cempaka demonstrated by Haji Tahir’s son (2019)
Inverted shapes: a) Thai, Hindu “Dragon jaws (Hpp.Behance.net):
Figure 5.8 311
“Pemeleh” Makara shape in Duyong Kecil, stairs in Kuala Hiliran
Figure 6.1 “Human Habitat forms” in Terengganu and their priorities 333
Lasir waterfall 19 Julai 2019: impact of a hurried last logging; now
Figure 6.2 336
(2022) restored, and part of the State Park.
Figure 6.3 Map of the newly created State Parks around Kenyir Lake 338
a) 2020: A uninhabited house in Pulau Duyong: climbers escalated
Figure 6.4 343
the walls.
b) 2022: Mango trees, gerai, serambi are gone. 2022: concrete
343
house with zinc roof is built next to it.
Janda –(jendela)- berhias- wall in Bakawali Sari Warisan,
Figure 6.5 346
Kampong Raja
a) The curves of a box window in Kampong Ladang: creativity in
Figure 6.6 346
the Past Era: foreign design for a feauture, local material
b) individual preferences, local material, in Sungai Durhaka,
“dangau” gazebo added, beach Cycas species planted. 346
Modern efforts for architectural resilience: a) Twin bujang
Figure 6.7 346
berpeles to be re-used (Sungai Durhaka)
b) Concrete house on stilt columns and “atap belanda” (Pulau
Duyong) 346
INTRODUCTION
“This plant is not there anymore, the hill itself has disappeared”
Living “on the field” for five decades in Terengganu, this researcher observed that changes
happened: On the coasts, in the villages and upon the hills, parts of the Terengganu from the
past, its flora and its architecture seemed to disappear along the years. It was becoming urgent
to report that evolution, for the sake of historical value, ancient knowledge and nature
conservation.
The Northern states of the East Coast of Malaysia -which includes Terengganu, are
reputed to be a repository of a branch of the Malay culture related to ancient lands, from the
kingdom of Campa to the legendary Langkasuka (Wheatley 1976, Farish Nor et al. 2004).The
flora -a source of food, medicines an materials- is varied, and comprises endemic species
2
(Turner 1995, Kiew 2013).The people of these areas have long been reputed to possess rich
traditions (Sheppard 1986), in particular their knowledge in timber architecture and the use of
Today, however, with the rise of modernity, with economic development, international
curriculum in education and sciences, it would appear that this type of knowledge is on the way
to oblivion. New generations have few means of connection with it. Malay traditions and the
people who live in villages seem to -progressively- losing both a natural source of materials -
to development, and a world view -to global thinking. The threat of double disappearance is
real. However, research is necessary to substantiate this view and make it more specific.
environment. In India (Yogendra Singh, 1986), Indonesia (Yonda Dominikus, 2016), China
(Galen et al., 2008). studies have reported the paradoxes inherent to modern development in
well as of other traditional assets has been noted. In Malaysia, architects (SJ Kassim et al.2017,
p.39) report that “countries in South Asia are experiencing within a span of 50 years what it
took Europe and America 200 to 300 years to achieve” ... “Mass urbanization and
In Terengganu, the population -of which 95% are Malay (Unit Perancang Economi Negeri,
2010), formed a society sharing a common cultural heritage. Back in the eighties, characteristic
features in traditional habitat could be identified, nestled in the middle of exuberant humid
tropical vegetation -where edible and medicinal species would be harvested. Time was marked
3
by the azan -the call to the prayer. If change was obviously happening there, in a stronghold of
forces.
Would it be suitable to say that what has been witnessed during the latest decades
amounts to a civilization turning point? Observation along the years leads to a positive answer
to this question. Yet, as just mentioned, such a conclusion would be presumptuous without
demonstrating the reality of the move. Furthermore, if the described process is seen as on-
going, it is urgent to document its aspects, so that the ancient records and memories are
It does appear that, as elsewhere in the developing world, landscapes, plants species.
as well as the related knowledge are changing fast. The bond that existed between the
components of that triple heritage of the state, is also vanishing. What is at stake is that
deliberately replaced, abandoned, forgotten. How to demonstrate the reality of the perceived
loss?
This research begins with the results from previous studies in ethnobotany and
landscape architecture (Longuet, in Delfolie, 2007), then it compares these with current
circumstances in the villages, on the coasts, and upon the forest hills. It is intended to examine
if, in effect, change happened, and if it may be part of the expression of a move towards the
adoption by the people in Terengganu of new world views and even, of a new civilization.
[Prior to the evolution process, geography and historical context are remembered.]
To trace the circumstances of the evolution observed on the field in the natural and
built landscapes, a look at the geography and the history of Terengganu is useful. It may help
4
discover the process by which a state reputed to be traditional can evolve, from an economy
based on its topography, its human and natural resources, to a modern state driven by the laws
of development and economic growth. It can help understand how the relation of a people with
their land may have changed in depth within the space of a few decades around the turn of the
Figure 1.1: Relief map of Malaysia with the location of Terengganu and the North Sud
direction of the hills (Polunin, before the Lake Kenyir )
The state of Terengganu is located at 5 degrees North of latitude, with the states of
Kelantan in the North and West, Pahang in the South. It lays on the Eastern part of the Malay
5
Peninsula, between the summits of granitic hills of the main range Banjaran Titiwangsa and
the coast along the China Sea. Tropical forests have spread, with vegetal species dating back
to the Permian period, from 299 to 251 million years ago. A tall canopy and emergent trees as
high as 60m and 2m in diameter are found in these hills. Spectacular flora grows in the forests
that used to cover all of the land, including antediluvian Cycas and majestic Dipterocarps.
Smaller species such as the Baeckia, Leptospermum, Podocarpus are found on the heights of
Gunong Lawit (1500 m) and Gunong Tebu (1039 m). On lower lands, are more forest reserves,
then, pioneer settlements, paddy fields, small orchards, down to the coastal areas that run along
210 km by the China Sea with varied landscapes of sand beaches, wet lands, dunes, mangroves
and lagoons. The rivers, often beginning in spectacular cascades, flow from the mountains and
reach more leisurely river confluences and estuaries where eponymous towns have been built:
The sub-equatorial climate is dominated by Monsoon rains, mainly the North East
Monsoon that comes from November to February. Heat and humidity foster abundance on the
otherwise not very fertile, often laterite and granitic soils, except in the sedimentary valleys
where grow rice, maize, and sweet potatoes. Plantations of rubber and palm oil have spread
Around villages are fields and orchards of duku, durian, langsat, rambutan. In open
areas of belukar or semak secondary growth-, luxuriant wild trees, shrubs and climbers, useful
Being relatively secluded in Malaysia, Terengganu did not have -like Selangor or
Johore- an eventful history of contacts with the western world where seeds of change could be
6
sown. Proclaimed as a kingdom in 1742 (Mohamad Abu Bakar, 2010), the state was in majority
“rural” -rural- meaning that there were few cities, not that the main occupation was agriculture.
The capital, Kuala Terengganu, had only one street, reported Munshi Abdullah in 1838. In fact,
the town underwent a first metamorphosis from the beginning of the 19th to the beginning of
the 20th century. During the reigns of Baginda Omar (1831-1876) and Zainal Abidin III (1881-
1918), in the tradition of the port cities of South East Asia, Kuala Terengganu developed an
economy based on skills and crafts, producing goods for export. The state had a fleet of fishing
and cargo vessels that traded over the China Sea and maintained a network of commercial ties
with the Indonesian Archipelago. Historian Khoo Kay Kim could picture an image of
prosperity:
“The least that may be said about Terengganu is that its principal port and capital,
Kuala Terengganu, was, for the greater part of the eighteen and nineteen centuries, a thriving
trading center with a comparatively dense population. The people were skillful craftsmen and
a large proportion of them were a maritime people” (Kho Kay Kim, Malay Society, 1991, p
94).
After the second world war, and up to independence, the inhabitants of the state
continued to use the wealth from the forest, the timber, fish from the sea, and their own ability
in crafts with copper, silver, gold, songket, batik cloth, timber carvings and boat building.
However, the fame of the harbour declined -salt import from Thailand was the remaining cargo-
, perhaps compared to the tin and rubber rich, more western export oriented Malaysian West
coast. Rancangan -pioneer settlements- planted rubber (@ 1930) and palm oil (@1950)
appeared. Iron mining up the Dungun Rive (1929-1960) did bring a whiff of foreign ways but,
7
health care was unknown in remote areas. Infantile mortality was relatively high (Official
Statistics or and - until the 1970s, cholera epidemics were not uncommon (Siti Hasmah 1963
in Wilson, 1973). [As witnessed by this researcher], they were treated both by religious singing
day.
1.1.4 Blooming
In 1973, oil was discovered in East Tiong field on the continental shelve at 140 km
off the coast. 5% of the oil revenue would be given to the state. Suddenly, economic and
political realities intervened and would have had a strong impact on the physical image of the
state.
The newly appointed State Minister Wan Mokhtar Wan Ahmad, in office from 1974
piped water, schools, health care, hospitals, local public clinics that modified the life of the
people. In 1985, in the same spirit of modernity, the damming of the Terengganu River and the
260.000 hectares Kenyir lake created a shimmering landscape of water in the middle of former
forested hills. Timber exploitation and sawmills continued; their pace increased by machinery.
Bridges, -no more ferries across the rivers-, a completely new town in Kerteh and gaz burning
torches modified the landscape of the coast. A magnificent neo-vernacular Museum appeared
at the end of kampong Losong. Health statistics improved. Pharmaceutical products rendered
available became commonly used. The state was dubbed “the Kuweit of Malaysia”.
Then, in 1999, at the dawn of the 21th century, political turmoil elsewhere in
Malaysia had an impact on conservative Terengganu: Haji Hadi, from the conservative
opposition party “PAS” became state Chief Minister. The oil revenues were withdrawn after
an examination of their use by the state government. At the end of Hadi’s mandate, another -
pro-federal government- Minister was chosen. The oil revenues were given back. Dubbed
“wang ihsan” (charity money), they would be allotted by the central government for projects
that would benefit the people of Terengganu. Dato’Idris Jusoh, the new State Chief Minister,
(from 2004 to 2008) introduced a vision of a modern and highly educated Terengganu.
Besides oil, tourism was definitively identified as an essential source of revenue. A grand -
neo-vernacular- airport would welcome visitors. In the estuary of the Terengganu River
appeared the Terengganu Islamic Civilization, a collection of 20 classic mosques replica. And
not far, at the end of the island of Pulau Duyung, the “Monsoon Cup” yachting event was
launched. A marina and a grand hotel were built. On the way to Besut, came an “Ululalbab
Institut”, a religious academy, a football college, a brand new international coastal university,
while -extended, the colleges “Samudra” and “Kuza” became full-fledged universities.
Change was heartily endorsed by the following state governments (Ahmad Said 2008-
2014). The official slogan of “transformasi” even became “transformasi baru”-the new
transformation. Logging in some former lowland forest reserves had allowed the spread of
more palm oil plantations. Industrial estates were created that could provide work to a growing
population. Meanwhile, the federal inspired ECERD plan (East Coast Economic Region
Development launched in 2007) spelled out a bold future for the northern coastal regions. A
draw bridge would cross the Terengganu River estuary. A high-speed train would link Kota
Baru, Kuala Terengganu and Kuantan to Port Kelang on the west coast. And it was not only
9
the physical face - the zahir -the appearance, of the sleepy state, but also the mentality, the
1.2 The State government philosophy and the Attitude of the people
1.2.1 The attitude of the people and the Terengganu government philosophy
The old bond of the inhabitants with nature was referred to in 2004 in an illustrated brochure,
”Daya tarikan pantai yang menyusur panjang turut mempengaruhi karakter rakyiat Terengganu
yang tidak dinafikan wujudnya hubungan alam-manusia zaman berzaman” “The beauty of the
beaches that spread along the coast contributes to the character of the inhabitants where one
cannot deny that a bond between man and nature has been woven since time immemorial.”
The symbiosis with nature was more than santai (nonchalant): it was an experience
embedded in an idiosyncratic attitude. That was the attitude that the government led by Haji
Idris Yusof had identified as needing to be transformed, if the people in Terengganu wanted
access to modern progress. In areas where fishermen were a majority, financial rewards were
“Dengan itu sangat logik sekiranya nelayan Terengganu terus merasa “selesa”walaupun
hidup dalam situasi miskin, tidak mewah. Golongan ini puas berkommunikasi dengan alam
“And so, it was perfectly logic if a Terengganu fisherman would continue to feel
“comfortable” although he would live in poverty and would not rich. This group of people are
satisfied with their communication with nature even if they do not have a lot of money.” (ib.)
Aware of the danger of the possible intrinsic contradiction, the government of Terengganu,
in the same illustrated pamphlet, gave the direction of what that Datuk Idris Jusoh and his team
wanted to see taken, the condition for progress: a change of mentality or a perubahan of the
“mind-set” of the people. From “santai” and “lesu” picturesque portrait of the Terengganu
The projects selected by the authorities were destined to express a continuity with two of
the reputed characteristics of the state of the people of Terengganu: Their knowledge in religion
and their aptitude at sailing and riding the waves. The large estuary could host buildings
celebrating that fame from the past. The modernization plan of the state was conceived to have
The Terengganu envisioned by Idris Yusof and his advisors presented in the illustrated
pamphlet would produce a vibrant state capital city, with cafes where international and local
students would engage in discussion. There will be research centers and even a Nobel Prize
laureate from the state who would return to his hometown and be amazed by the modern
developments not only in material infrastructures, but also in the existence of an intellectual
This “mindset transformation” would not be a rupture with the past but be based on the
knowledge in a wide sense of the term- including Islamic teachings. In the state, since
beginning of the eighteen century ulama -scholars and leaders often from Arab descent or of
Arab learning background from Pattani and Champa such as Tokku Pulau Manis or Tokku
Paloh had been at the root of prior development. And there was the Batu Bersurat -the scripted
Therefore, the state could engage in the material aspects of global civilization without
abandoning its Islamic culture. In his introduction to the state development program the Chief
“Dan tuntutlah dengan harta kekayaan yang telah di kurnyakan oleh Allah kepadamu akan
pahala dan kebahagian hari akhirat dan jangan melupakan bahagianmu di dunia” “And claim
the wealth that Allah has granted to you, the rewards and the happiness in the hereafter, and do
The result was to be a “quantum leap” where superstitions and wrongly understood fatalism
“serah kepada takdir” would have disappeared. In the Terengganu River estuary, in Nerus area
where new modern settlements and terrace housing grew, on the coast in Kemaman, whereoil
from offshore was processed, a physical metamorphosis was obviously taking place. On the
mental side, the transformasi was not much questioned: The word techno-daii “muslim techno-
missionary” was created. The magic of the Ulit Mayang therapeutic ceremony was given a
place in the tourism agendas and gave its name to a giant “Mayang Mall” for the new KTCC -
the Kuala Terengganu City Centre. It would remind of the “mayang” flowers (which had
disappeared from the landscape of the estuary, together with the coconut trees). In a move akin
to Max Weber (1864-1920) social analysis in Germany, together with rationalization, reason
Some projects did not quite meet the expectations: The “Monsoon Cup” sailing event,
designed to last 10 years, did not provide a sufficient return on investment. The Marina and the
Hotel continued to exist on Pulau Duyong. Like the Islamic Cultural Park, they faced
maintenance problems. They could not recreate the atmosphere of the past. The development
projects wrapped in Islamic package were little connected with the people living in the estuary
at that time (Nawal et al., 2016). They remain today as ambitious touristic attractions, related
foundations
1.3.1 Question
The question today is: Are the centuries-old Terengganu assets in landscapes, plant
species and built environment observed in the past, on the way to disappearance or do they
remain resilient? [ Among all the progress efforts, have the vernacular floral and built
environments been reduced or do they continue to prosper? Have the natural and built
therapeutic knowledge, all part of the heritage of the state, been reduced? or -even, are they,
in the present times, at risk of disappearance?] A question that can be reformulated according
1) Are the landscapes in Terengganu, for centuries the natural resource, with its vernacular
architecture and day to day living environment of the inhabitants, being transformed?
13
2) What is the present status of the floral species and traditional therapeutic knowledge?
Are they on the way to disappearance, or remain resilient, compared to the observations
severed, along with the apparent disappearance of a number of plant species or is it still
alive?
change over time needs to be verified in its details, quantitively and qualitatively, using
During the recent decades, what was witnessed, was perhaps a progressive, irresistible-
civilization turn. Observation for over forty years leads to a positive answer to this question.
Moreover, if the described process of change is seen as on-going, it is urgent to document its
nature and its extent, as surviving remains from the past may be found useful in the future.
The first objective of this research is to describe what has happened along the years
from the witness point of view of a field ethnobotanist and landscape architecture researcher.
To reach this objective, narratives (i) describe what has changed in the floral and built
environments along two “Eras” of visits in the past -from 1980 to 2005-, and “re-visits” in
present times from 2013 to 2022. The second objective is to recall the floral and cultural
features of the past and evaluate the evolution through inventories (ii) of plants and cultural
14
features along the two “Eras”. The third objective is to review (iii) the causes and the
consequences of the change, and to introduce its extent, its impact on the environment and on
There had been drastic visual changes in some landscapes. Then, from recent surveys, while
ancient houses have been transformed, invasive climbers and small trees have flourished, a
good number of plant species with a medicinal use seem to have disappeared from the location
they had been found decades earlier. Finally, holders of ancient knowledge have passed away
and are not replaced. However, an awareness exists of the threat of further losses of a heritage
which was previously valued and could remain of potential value for the future of the state of
Terengganu.
Apart from the recent works mentioned further down in the literature review on the
subject, the evolution of the state over the years and in the three considered field had been little
explored. Although often fondly remembered, in literature writings, in the past (Marzuki Ali,19
, Awang Goneng 2011) the ground elements and cultural features of the state had, until recently
little motivated academic research. Similarly, Terengganu has attracted only few botanical
expeditions (Tan… ) and even recently a government offices 70 strong members bio-diversity
in Gunong Tebu…yet plant species inventories are few. (Kew….), The subject of the natural
assets heritage of the state had sparsely attracted academic interest. A few signals of alarm have
been heard and reported in the press, demonstrating attention among concerned people. In the
forest, a pregnant tigress was found dead on the new highway. Poachers were
denounced.161Traps were found by the Rimba team from Basong. Extensive illegal logging in
A contribution will be made for two important aspects of the state assets: the flora of the
state, as well as the cultural habitat found in traditional houses and their compounds or
“Halaman”
[The lists of encountered species in the visited areas will serve to support and compare with
any further explorations. A preliminary change in the number of medicinal species available in
the landscapes of Terengganu along two periods of time will be made. The status, -oblivion or
resilience- of traditional therapeutic principles within the current world view of the people will
be approached.
As further explained in the methodology chapter, the research through past personal
researches has depended on fragile documents, salvaged from humidity and gathered from
memories of elder informants. Fortunately, it was possible to conduct interviews about the past
to confirm previous data, and collections on the field were still available. “Re-visits” were
made in the previously visited areas. A trend was appearing: Already, by the end of the 1990es,
even common species such as the telinga kerbau (Blumea balsamifora) or tapak Suleiman
(Elephantopus scaber) could not be found again where they had been easily spotted before.
Something else was happening: At the beginning of the 21 Century, some timber
houses and their compounds, rich in cultural features and where had been growing, edible,
cosmetic, medicinal, fragrant and ornamental plant species, had disappeared or were
abandoned and dilapidated. This occurred particularly in Kuala Terengganu and surrounding
villages. This researcher began to document the important -yet disappearing- cultural elements
of the built environment in Terengganu. It had been possible to identify a typology of these
16
particular “house compounds” (Longuet, 2007). Yet, what was evident already was the fragility
of the historical material remnants of a passing way of life, compared to new construction in
brick, concrete, asbestos and industrial tiles, as well as the emergence of new terms to define
Following the natural relief distribution, Coastal areas, and forest hills, villages visited in
the past, were re-visited. The following table summarizes the sites surveys, according to their
Table 1.1: Table of the “visited sites”, in the “Past era”, divided in three areas according to the relief morphology and human habitat location
Location Main site Landscape type Information Source List of species, Prominent features Resources utilization
visits and dates
2 Jambu Bongkok Beach, beris, low Mat Kapur+ other sellers 1984.,1985 Bags 400gr dry roots Business, commercial use
land forest explorations for labs barks and leaves,
majun
1985, to 2001
1 Pulau Duyung and Estuarine Tok Bidan Wan 1983 to 2003 Freshsamples Personal care, first aid Nuralam project
Pulau Ketam island village Esah, inhabitants spp samples and lists Medicinal plants
mangrove presenceAround
houses and belukar
5 Sekayu, Small hills Botanist, L. Hume, 1983, 1988, 199 Environment and Notion: valuable spp not to be submerged
forests waterfalls,
artificial lake
Kenyir Prof. Karim (UMT) 2 lists Phytochemistry.
conservationist and
journalists
Tersat,
Gunong Kambing
Gunung Tebu
6 Kuala Sayap Forest Batiq people 1984,1985, Aborigines Progressive stages of Changing ways
dwellings “Abdullah” development
Sungai Bera 2002
Settlements Semoq Beri Palm oil,
secondary school
3 Kuala Terengganu Traditional Inhabitants, 1973, 1983 to Pharmacy around the Rural functional habitat to urbanised life.
and Surroundings villages traditional practitioners 2003. house amongst species
with multiple uses
1.5 The context of the research
This work, although based on concrete features like plants and element of landscape,
has also a sociological, ecological and philosophical context. Long ago, in industrializing
Europe, Max Weber (1919) had already described the process of replacement of a mentality by
another, and the people psychological and mental experience in a society that faces
transformation issues. He presented a model that qualified the deep change in attitude of the
people in Europe. He called it: “entzauberung” -the “disenchantment”. Reason and legality
would dominate instead of beliefs and magic. Modernity implied getting rid of religion - as
rule, so would finance and business. In northern Europe, Protestantism would uphold hard work
and ethics. In Terengganu, similarly, religion was trusted to re-establish the -sometimes
imperiled- balance between economic objectives and spiritual concepts. Mosques and
The scope of this thesis is wide. Befitting its human ecology discipline, it is an inter-
disciplinary study where landscape architecture, botany and anthropology are referred to, in
order to identify the changes that happened in their respective fields and sites. The more fields
are concerned, the wider the range of changes are shown, the closer one gets to an evaluation
of the extend of the change. The convergence of the results of observations from various
disciplines increases the impact of the reports. As expressed by Japanese researcher Keisuke
multifaceted and integrated approach, and interdisciplinary research (IDR) has become
Each field has series of details, plant species and cultural or ground architectural features, to
be inventoried. The inventories may not be exhaustive; however, the repetition of noted
disappearances or diminutions in the various fields will add weight to the demonstration.
Meanwhile, the meaning of the terms, related to different disciplines or fields, which are as
referred to in this thesis and their definition in the frame of this research, needs to be
introduced:
moved from the canvas to nature: In 1903, Vidal de la Blache gave a simple definition “Un
paysage est ce qui peut etre percu d’un seul coup d’oeil” “-A landscape is what can be grasped
at a glance. The human sensory element was introduced. The “glance” was enlarged, and
landscape disciplines appeared that dealt with man living in his habitat, in his natural or built
environment. (Antrop, 2018). A landscape could also be “cultural” -the result of the impact of
authors from Terengganu (Raja Bahrin, 1988, Mohd Yusof, 2012), it had been found that
kampong houses and their compound (halaman) in Terengganu expressed the social status and
It appeared that, beyond the fact that a landscape was the language of the land, telling
of the people who lived in it, of who they were, and of what they valued, a familiar landscape
provided its inhabitants with a “sense of place” -comparable to “bearings” in navigation which
give a concrete direction. Without that direction, they may experience a feeling of
disorientation. The loss of such a significant landscape may have negative social consequences
on members of the concerned communities as in the example of the Inuit Esquimaux in Canada,
20
who “after 7 years of self-rule are still struggling” (Clifford Krauss, 2006), and in Malaysia,
some Orang Asli (Colin Nicholas, 2000) as well as some individuals in the second generation
Place” is used as it is the word that translate best one of the most frequent interpretations
related to the “genus loci” or the” spirit of a place”, the particular atmosphere of a location
where a place is invested with emotional and intellectual significance: It is where events
1.6.2 “Era”
Dictionaries define an era as “a period of time known for particular circumstances, events
“The dawn of a new Era” (Wan Salleh and Wan Ramlie, 2006). In fact, the present research
could refer to the “Wan Moktar era” as the past, and to “Transformasi era” as the present times,
referring to the deliberate will of the successive chief Ministers to modernize the state.
However, in this work, to remain true to the actual collections of data, and following them, the
dates referring to the “Past Era” are from 1983 to 2007, -first researches- then the ‘Present Era’
The concept and understanding of the word “Civilization” have changed over the
times. It varies according to the cultural backgrounds of the writers. Civilization, by etymology,
is the product of many “cives”, individuals who live in a city and follow the urban rules of
“citizens”. Many definitions of that human phenomenon with such significant and wide reach
have been given along the years by scholars. Yet unanimity is found in the recurrent terms that
help define the concept of civilization in dictionaries: -“high level of intellectual, technological,
cultural and social development,” -a highly developed culture and way of life”, -own level and
advanced state of development. The recurring words “development”, “high level”, advanced”,
imply an idea of value attributed to the said civilization. On a slightly different tone “a
perceived separation from and the domination over the natural environment” is often added.
Historian and sociologist Fernand Braudel (1979) retraced the emergence of the present
Western or European civilization to the birth of capitalism and to the banking and financial
organization of trade starting from the in the 16 th century. He underscores how European
civilization has spread capitalism -a system based on economy and technology- over the world.
More recently, (2016) with another point of view, Kabuye Uthman Suleiman, (from the
International Islamic University Malaysia), has detailed how civilizations have answered the
technological and cultural needs”. He adds that without it “solidarity among peoples of
different nations, cooperation and fraternity among people of different nations cannot be
achieved”.
sounds like a description of the emerging modern global civilization with its urbanization and
22
its separation from a natural environment. It would perhaps not be fit for the ancient Chinese
or Amerindian civilizations: Their most known buildings are not agglomerations of houses, but
monuments to their gods or to their rulers; and even less suitable for “The Malay Civilization”
as defined for example by Malaysian historian Mohd Arof Ishak (2007), where, for long, travel,
a life close to the sea, sailing and ocean exploration towards new lands, seem to have been
fundamental. Philosopher Regis Debray (2019) has defined a civilization in terms of its
“capacity for metabolism as it transforms itself and stimulates others”, thus widening further
1.6.4 “Culture”
Civilization is not necessarily linked to a place or the product of the history of a country. It
can be adopted or accepted from other peoples, while a culture is defined by the people who
practice that culture and have interiorized its values along -usually- a few generations:
Etymologically, a culture is the result of what has been grown -cultivated- deliberately, be
it plants or knowledge or art. A culture expresses the philosophy of a people, through its art,
its language. This is another word that has many definitions. Although sometimes taken as
synonym of civilization, In the present work, culture is more related to the identity of a people,
to their specific artistic and intellectual endeavors and less to economic or political
related to his effort to overcome death after his own individual demise through his teachings,
his art and his built environment. If one wants to study cultural change, the transmission of
vernacular knowledge is an important factor relative to the preservation or the loss of a culture.
Another factor of local resiliency is the custom followed by the people of an area.
“Custom” – adat in Malay- is a social tool, a medium for transmitting aspects of a people’s
23
singular culture. It is evoked in Chapter 5: Has it, in Terengganu, resisted to the material impact
of change? This would deserve to be the subject for another research in sociological studies. It
is briefly evoked in this study, as adat was reputed to be important for the Malay people, and
therapeutic effect. However, the criterion for activity is relative to many circumstances. As Pak
Hin, a traditional practitioner from Kampong Pengkalang Merbau, used to say: “Every plant is
medicinal, only we have not found that use yet”. General consensus among the informants on
the medicinal value of a species is the practical criteria followed in this research; while
the tools and elements in a garden or a yard that are found around a house, used for work,
In Terengganu, traditional practitioners are individuals who heal patients, using herbs or
shrubs or parts of trees or other therapeutic material that they have or find in the proximity of
their house or village. They are merchants of roots and leaves, who are usually found near the
market place in towns. They are as well plant collectors and villagers familiar with the edible
floral species and aware also of their medicinal reputation. There are personnel from the
24
government departments who are knowledgeable in the use of plants: such as the foresters
(including specialists of the NFTP -Non-Timber-Forest-Products-) and the officers of the State
Museum. They too are considered in this research as they represent part of the learned
relationship of the Terengganu inhabitants with the floral resources of the land where they were
1.6.8 “Sites”
Sites, are different from places in the sense that they refer to an intention of activity.
Wherever mining, filming or researching can be done, it is a “site”. In this work, they are not
all specific geographic areas, but can be different places that are united by common features of
“Sites” here therefore are the locations where the phenomenon of change has been
observed over the years by this researcher. These locations, for example, the forests mountains
-dubbed sometimes the “Terengganu Highlands” (Kiew 2003)- include Lata Tembakah and
Lata Belatan. Both are waterfalls cascades. They have become part of the “amenity forests”
The two rather different orang asli settlements are reunited in one “site” study: The Sungai
Lepah /Kuala Sayap and Sungai Berua, one in the northern forests the other in the periphery of
the lake Kenyir, both inhabited by Orang Asli or aborigenes tribes Batek and Senoi Semaq
Beri.
House compounds which share common features from the point of view of sociology but
are found in various locations in villages or in town are considered as parts of the site “House
compounds”.
25
The first chapter introduces the traditional assets at stake, in landscape, plant species, built
environment and the inhabitants’ relationship with them. It recalls events that have occurred in
the past history and have led the evolution towards what seems to be a turning point where the
The second chapter reports literature findings on change from Art and architecture,
Today a few researchers have signaled the identity role and particular services rendered by
traditional settlements such as those found in Terengganu. The modern context of the
“Anthropocene” and globalization is briefly evoked as well. As the warnings (premonitory OA,
COP27) on the current dangers of exhaustion of earth resources and climate warming in the
Chapter three explains the methodology of the research, (1) the procedures used in the past
to collect data (plant species inventories, landscape characteristics, types of practitioners), then,
how current data were collected and organized in view of (2) a comparison past - present eras.
From this comparison, the assumption of change will be verified. These changes (3) will be
referred to a set of theories related to the evolution of a society and of its natural environment.
Then, from the examination of the features of that change, the demonstration of the hypothesis
Chapter four presents, in a first part, an introduction to the natural environment in the state
and to some of the inhabitants ilmu (traditions in knowledge) in relation with this environment.
A second part reviews six “sites” in three areas of the state relief morphology: the forested
26
hills, the coasts, and villages, where ethno-botanical visits and re-visits have been made along
the years. The sites are examined to assess the evolution of the status of plants species -
particularly medicinal- that of cultural features, ground elements and of the inhabitant’s
Chapter five analyses the results from fields comparisons of the of data collected in past and
present times, giving an interpretation of the causes and consequences of the witnessed changes
in the diverse locations or “sites”, referring to the theories mentioned in the methodology that
Chapter six identifies, from the results of the investigation, some negative aspects of change
as well as, on the positive side, indices of directions for a development in Terengganu towards
judicious preservation of values from the triple heritage in built and floral landscapes and in
Observation
Past Present
Landscapes were the hosts to the plants The landscapes are disturbed
that people used. A spiritual and magic the floral diversity is diminishing, many of
world was deemed to exist. traditional medicinal knowledge holders are
Architecture was in wood. not replaced. So have traditional timber
craftsmen and workers
Assumption
During the last four decades, important, physical and mental changes have occurred in the
Traditional floral and built environments in Terengganu,
Hypothesis
These changes imply that a civilization turn is being taken
Research Design
Method: data comparison in past and in present time
in six sites selected for geographical and social characteristics
From Past Visits -1983-2007- and Re-visits: -2013 2022-
- Causes Exogenous and endogenous: modernization, population increase, political will, new
ways of making a living, obsolescence and oblivion of old ways, urbanization
- Consequences of the phenomenon:
- the previous bonds between plants and people are severed
- the previous natural and built environment of the people vanishes
- A feeling of alienation & loss of identity may replace a “sense of place”,
Perspectives
Trappings of modernity are introduced, have been witnessed in the three considered fields, turning towards a new
civilization.
The move may not be complete: artists, religious people and politicians protest in the name of identity. ethics and
beauty. And wisdom versus rationality.
Figure 1.2: Flow of the Research design and expected conclusions at the present stage.
CHAPTER 2
LITTERATURE REVIEW
A literature review of the various studies on matters related with the evolution of flora,
their therapeutic uses and the transformation of the built environment in Terengganu is
particularly interesting: it shows how authors have interpreted the world they discovered
according to their own background and knowledge; thus, it may be revealing two ways of
thinking, the one of the “explorers”, -mostly foreigners, and the one of the explored people:
Malaysian and Terengganu researchers. These authors of different origins had world views that
started quite far from each other chronologically but today tend to meet in the common
awareness of the modern need for sustainability and resilience of valuable features from the
past.
While change spreads over today’s “global world”, the fate of traditional societies
facing development and modernity has attracted attention of researchers from all over the
29
world where the effect of that change over time have been observed. In Japan, Hirai Naofusa
(1983) had already explained how modernization should not be confused with Westernization.
The new modernizing elements should enlarge “the spheres of life” and “broaden one’s
outlook”, meaning that the Japanese are “remolding a cultural system into a new form”. In
Bolivia, Reyes Garcia et al. (2005) have noted how ethnobotanical knowledge regresses as life
becomes more urbanized amongst the people of the indigenous Tsimane tribe. In Turkey,
Meltem Erdem Kaya (2013), has studied particularly the “spatial characteristics” of rural
settlements where changes occurred and became signs of a loss of identity. In Yunnan, the fate
of the formerly indispensable buffalo that has lost its role and place in deforested ecosystem of
modern agriculture has been described (Rousseau andTurner, 2018), as well as the concurrent
Malaysia’s own path towards the future has been observed in Sarawak with the Dayak
(Boulanger, 2008) and in Malacca (Anisa Ani et al., 2012). However, the aspects ofthe
change that may have occurred in the State of Terengganu had not been the subject of specific
reports until the recent studies on rural settlements by Nor Zalina Harun and Najiha Jaffar
(2018), on Kampong Losong and Pulau Duyong in the estuary of the TerengganuRiver,
places they identified as traditional villages that exhibited a balanced lifestyle within their floral
Existing literature on plants highlight the constant presence of the plants in the
environment of the inhabitants in Malaysia. Plants are used as materials, food, medicine and
appear in architecture, house ornamentation and games (ADD THE CORRESPONDING REF
HERE). They also show how omnipresent as well are the beliefs and the cosmology linked to
traditional medicinal practices which were carefully described by the earlier anthropologists at
Gimlette1966, Thomson, 1939) has appeared on the plant species used in Malaysia,
The first descriptions of the Malaysian cultural and built environment (Raja Bahrin 1988,
Jee Yuan Lim, 1991) have been updated by recent studies in the present times through
Hassan et al.) and universities at the Institute of Malay World and Civilization (ATMA) at the
Malaysia by scholars such as Mohamad Tajuddin Rasdi (2012), or Noor Fazaminah Mohd
Ariffin (2020). They contribute to the understanding of the extent and the significance of the
change observed in traditional settings facing the present world context, while considering
present and future re-use of traditional concepts in modern housing (S J Kassim et al. 2017) in
From the point of view of the plant species, the stakes are high. Medicinal discoveries
are increasingly difficult to find as biodiversity is in jeopardy (Humphrey 2019, Kew State of
the Word Plants and Fungi, Report 2020), while putting on the market new molecules or
compounds is expensive (Daniel Jean, 1982, Christophe Wiart, 2007). Furthermore, nowadays,
available land space where plants would grow is carefully measured and accounted for.
Landscape organisation and management have become essential in economic planning and
political agendas, while traditional landscapes are changing. However, as shown by the
literature, the importance and the meaning of the vegetal kingdom in Terengganu remains.
31
2.1.1 Floral materials and patterns, their practical and symbolic uses in Terengganu
Compared to the rest of Malaysia, the state of Terengganu has long been relatively
Terengganu, craftsmanship is the field the relationship between the people and their natural
environment has been most observed and reported. The natural vegetation has been noted as
integral part of the life of the Malays (Jee Yuan Lim, 1987, Abdul Halim Nasir and Hashim
Haji Wan Teh, 2011). Trees provided the material used in building, food and medicine as
well in arts and crafts, while the motifs of the flora constantly inspired the creativity of the
craftsmen and were invested with a didactic message. “Each produced carving contains both
clear and hidden meanings” observed Noor Hafiza Ismail et al. (2014, p 187)
Plants were used as a symbolic medium carved in wood. Their leaves, branches, stems,
flowers and fruit, provided patterns for carvings on everyday life objects such as coconut
graters, cake moulds, room partitions and boats parts (Ismail Said, 2002). Plants also served as
material for building sailing ships, traditional houses, and for carved ventilation panels in
wooden filigrees, the shadow of which would be projected on the timber floor and walls of the
rooms.
ancient palaces of Terengganu with their wooden ornaments, Paul Coatalen (1984)
mentioned plant species, namely Bunga Kesidang (Valoris glabra), daun sesayap (Cratavea
nurvala), Benalu (Loranthus parasiticus) that were the inspiration for motifs on boats
carvings. Ismail Said (2002) listed the wood species mostly used in house building: Cengal
were extracted from the forests, and Halban (Vitex pinnata) from the belukar secondary
growth. Also mentioned was the diverse style of architecture of the residences
32
decorated by the carvings, and the uses of plant species found in the halaman – house
compounds gardens- of the villagers. Other scholars as well have studied the use of wood
in art and architecture on the East Coast of the Malay Peninsula: Farish Noor and Edwin
Khoo gave in “The Spirit of wood” (2003) an illustrated gathering of significant works of
art produced in an area spreading over Pattani, Kelantan and Terengganu, states that are
related, together with Kedah, to the legendary kingdom of Langkasuka. These authors
showed the important role of the trees and other plants species, herbs and flowers, such as
the Ketumbit (Leucas zeylanica), the modest Bayam peraksi (Emilia sonchifolia), the Capa
(Blumea balsamifera) with a camphor odour, the fragrant Kenanga (Cananga odorata)
portrayed in art pieces, in life, in food and medicine, being elements of the mental world-
view of the inhabitants of the East Coast, beyond the aesthetic and practical value as models
of the plant species for the craftsmen. They reported how reputed carver Nik Rashidin Nik
Hussein from Besut in the North of the state, explained that the Hindu motifs were re-
interpreted when Islam came to Malaysia: The Gunungan - the mountain, such as the Mount
Meru, became the more abstract “punca” -the concept of a source, in a pattern which would
be a symbol of the Creator in wood carving. Plants species became the ultimate symbolic
Said & Ahmad Saifudin Abdullah, 2001): “Kala” -a deity of the Hindu underworld, was
assigned to guard the boats as it was used as a sail support carved in the shape of the
makara -a mythic fish dragon vehicle of the goddess Ganga. It waslater transformed into
a bangau -an egret- which itself was eventually turned into to a graceful sulur kacang (bean
tendril). According to Mohd Sabrizaa (2008), in house architecture, the temple stupa
became a roof finial called buah gutong (Baringtonia asiatica) a plant frequently seen near
sand beaches.
33
Plant species pictured in carvings followed ethics rules which were similar to those of the
silat, the martial art that teaches to win in a fight but not to aim at harming the adversary
(Farish Noor and Khoo, 2003). The carved sharp tips of leaves would turn before meeting
another leave so as not to stab or harm the integrity of the neighbouring motif. In both fields,
the martial art and the craft, an attitude of respect for the elders is followed: the younger
sulur -tendrils- will not overlap the older stems (Nur Suriani Shafee and Ismail Said, 2013).
It is probably not a coincidence if the term “silat” describes carving works where the
motifs are reproduced in relief and intertwined. When the “sobek” wooden cut-out acquired
a third dimension, following its floral models, it was said to “bersilat”. The silat of wood
carving, like its martial homonym, is tri-dimensional, circular, and graceful. Both arts draw
“bunga” -flowers and bear “buah” -fruit (Noor Hafiza Ismail, 2014). Functional, aesthetic, and
pedagogic, the crafts, in wood carvings, as well as in songket, and batik, in Terengganu,
Kelantan and Pattani, were a repository of a language and a tradition of knowledge that used
symbols and floral motifs as words (Hazyia Hussin et al., 2012). In this regard, Islam had an
important influence, to the extent that the carvings had developed a representation of a
relationship between man and his creator in an abstract form while at the same time creating
aesthetic values (Ismail Said and Ahmad Saifudin Abdullah, 2001). As observed earlier, faith
The motives chosen for the panels above doors lintels were laid out following a precise
order: From a source or punca, sometimes called tapak (foundation), a vase, a hill or a flower,
was born the exuberance of the branches, twigs, leaves, and tendrils (as events in the life of
man), that would be pacified or framed in the symmetry of a geometric design -symbol of
religious education, and would return to its original punca. As expressed by Naquib al
34
Atas, (1980), botany and religious knowledge are not separated, as ilmu, -knowledge- forms an
integral whole.
Magic?
The constant appearance in the Malay tradition of ancient symbols and shapes in
craftsmanship and in therapeutic practices, as well as their persistence over time, may have led
what had brought the foreign anthropologists who described the medicinal practices they
discovered in Malaysia to qualify them as “magic” and, at first, not seeing these as aspects of
Not only nature provided a symbolic language to the craftsmen, but also an ever-
present link for the people with a world of supernatural beings that was present in many aspects
of the Malay life, including health or illness. The mystery of the large body of concepts
apparently incompatible with Islam or with rational thinking has attracted the early British
anthropologists of the early twentieth century such as William Skeat (1900), -posted in
Selangor but travelling over the Malay Peninsula and Richard Olaf Winstedt (1925) who began
Although Skeat and Winstead observed and documented carefully the healing practices
and ceremonies in Johore, Selangor, Kedah and Perak. Their records may as well serve as an
introduction to similar practices in Terengganu (where dances and songs are still performed as
theatre entertainment), when plants were also used as a medium of communication with the
balai (using Pulai -Alstonia angustifolia), tarian saba and ulek mayang (using Cocos nucifera
fronds and blossoms, respectively) still took place, up-river Dungun, in Kuala Berang, and on
the coast, in the 21rst century, for therapeutic use or for cultural remembrance.
William Skeat (Malay magic”, 1900) described how Malay “beliefs” are organized
around the cosmology and the place of man in the universe. He carefully wrote down the
paradoxical words of a mantra formula loaded with esoteric references as well as claiming
Return ye to your place the broken rock at the navel of the sea!
If you enter, I will curse you with the words of the prophet Salomon
I will curse you with the creed: “There is no God but Allah and Mohamed is his
prophet.”
Together with the mantra formulas, the jampi (spells) “magic” and syncretic attitude,
(Where beliefs from different traditions were mixed), Skeat recorded the plants species used in
therapy, They were mostly those from the belukar (secondary growth), the paths, the fieldsand
riverside landscapes- such as Lengundi hitam (Vitex trifolia), Rengas (Gluta renghas),
Gandarusa (Justicia gandarusa) or spices available in Indian grocery shops, that were used. He
remarks that one may trace the geographical origins of the knowledge through an analysis of
The Senna leaves, in one example, are given for “chest problems, to reinforce the bones,
get rid of bad humors”, with honey, moist sugar, clarified butter, goats milk, with dates, orange
juice- all not common in Malay villages. So, this Senna is not the Angsana (Pterocarpus
indicus) tree, also called Senna in Malay, but here, it is an imported Cassia
36
angustifolia or Senna Mekka native to the Middle East and an indication of the range of
In his preface to Skeat’s book, his colleague, G. Blagden (1900) points out the boldness of
their common enterprise in the context of the times: The tales of “fanciful superstitionsand
beliefs”. could lead to be interpreted as reports of sihir, -a cardinal sin in Muslim faith. The
even “sorcery”. Then, from the point of view of science, what can be a reasonable pretext for
recording “non sensical” folklore tales? Blagden answers: The “beliefs” are facts, as other parts
of history: They may prove useful in science and they will help “understand the mentality of
the governed people”: The anthropologist could serve his country and science at the same time.
In “The Malay Magician Shaman, Saiva and Sufi”, R.O Winstedt (1925) unraveled
“a complex system of magic in the light of historical and comparative data”. After gathering
data over more than twenty years throughout the Peninsula, Winstedt understood the
ceremonies and the treatments he witnessed as the result of an evolutionary syncretism, “This
system is a tangle every thread of which scholars working in Europe are led to term Malay,
although even the native distinguishes this thread as Indian and that as Muslim.”.
However critical Winstedt may appear towards the “Malay Magic”, he maintains his
impartiality and explains the many faces of the Malay traditional knowledge: “Every race has
its lumber-room of magical beliefs and practices, and many such survivals are gracious and
beautiful and full of historical interest. It is to be hoped that the rapid influx of modern ideas
will not wash away too many of the landmarks of their complex and ancient civilization”.
Kirk Endicott in “An Analysis of Malay Magic” (1970), instead of seeing a kind of “random
syncretism” , saw compatible concepts which could be explained in term of their structure
and their functions within in the Malay world-view. “By world-view” he clarified, “I mean the
system of ideas which members of a culture hold about things around them. In other words, it
is the way things are pictured or conceived by them as a "reality" (p…). Endicott considered
the Malay “magician” more as a healer with specialities according to his knowledge. For the
theoretical background of the practice, he focussed on the concept of “soul” and how to figure
out its correct interpretations within the Malay world view. “Soul” could be “Semangat”,
attributed to every living body, vegetal, animal or human or even inanimate, a vital force given
as a spark at birth or creation. It can be also “ruh” an Arabic term that refer to the spiritual
aspect of human existence and is different from the body, and it can be “nyawa”. Nyawa is a
term connected -like other ancient Malay words, to proto- Polynesian. “manawa” meaning
breath, life. It is found in Samoan and in Maori languages and refers to the life-force of an
individual on this earth. Endicott pointed out as well how, apart from the apparent pantheon of
ancient deities, Hinduist and Buddhist mystical experiences met with the vision and practices
In 1989, After reviewing the previous researchers’ perceptions, Mohd Taib Osman
(“Malay Folk Beliefs: An Integration of Disparate Elements”), agreed with the more recent
interpretation: “Despite the differences in traditions, the component items in Malay culture,
even if they are apparently opposed to one another, have an underlying meaningful order and
“Mohd Taib suggested: “Perhaps Malay culture is like that, it is the cupboard inwhich
are stored all the gifts from other cultures”. Following Mohd Taib, traditional
38
therapeutics devices can be considered today not as actual beliefs and superstitions, but -the
Earlier, in “Malay Poisons and Charm Cures” (1915) Gimlette did report a beautiful
and tragic metaphor on the origin of therapeutic knowledge. It bears on the nature of medicinal
knowledge according to tradition, telling how it can be gathered from manysources -which
seemed to be what the Malay practitioners did. As a young man, Akmal Hakim (Luqman ul
Hakim of Arab tradition) to whom the trees, would tell him of their use for medicine, could
even resuscitate a dead person. For some time, nobody died in Akmal’s country. But “he began
to get proud and God became angry with him”. One day, Akmal decided to cross a river to
reach a faraway country. He took all his books on medicine with him. God commanded the
archangel Gabriel to take the place of the boatman and upset the boat. The boat turned over and
Akmal Hakim drowned. All the books were lost but for piecesthat floated to various countries.
Those who find the scattered pieces would become healers. Thus, medicine which is “one”,
could seem to be diverse and sourced from many places and many schools of knowledge. This
is a view shared in modern research and advocated by the holistic theoreticians (Naveh 1998,
Marcucci, 2000), even if, in practice, science is fragmented according to its disciplines.
relationship in Terengganu
39
Among anthropologists who studied the practices and treatment methods of thepeople
in Malaysia are women researchers: Christine Wilson (1967), Carol Laderman (1983), Josiane
Massard (1985), who went on the east Coast- striving to understand culture from "the native's
point of view" and “participant observer” (Malinowski, 1922). They took interest in the diet of
the villagers in Terengganu, as well as the treatments around birth giving. Josiane Massard
observed that Wilson’s (1967) reported idea that the Malays villagers, especially the women
after delivery did not take vegetable or fruit in their diet was not correct. A misunderstanding
may have come from cultural linguistic differences. In fact, Massard noticed, ulam, (greens)
and sayur (vegetables) are eaten, but not especially mentioned because they are not “lauk” -
main dishes. Fruit as well were appreciated, but in season, often outside the meals, not as part
of a meal menu. Both Massard and Laderman were following the “insider’s” perspective of
ethnographers or “emic” perspective -by analogy with the “emic” perspective identified by
linguists (Pike, 1967), which is different from the “etic” - outsider’s perspective of
On her side, ethnologist Carole Laderman, who lived together with her husband and
their youngest son in Merchang, South of Kuala Terengganu and was accepted as a trainee by
a midwife in the coastal village of Machang, reported in “Wives and Midwives” (1983) the
particular care of the newly delivered mother and the practices around childbirth in Marang, on
the coast south of the state capital. She underlined the traditional understanding -in the village
and in the family- of the need for a woman to be taken care of in a special way after delivery.
The often athletic, unaccustomed effort of giving birth, especially for a first child, is followed
with the consumption of special food - nothing “cold-”, and is fortified by taking the “one
hundred spices decoction” by special massages; and sleeping on a wooden bed made of
40
planks with a small brasero and herbs placed below the platform. In the past Skeat (1906) did
mention a local post-delivery treatment in Selangor where he described the woman “roasted”
over a fire. He qualified of the treatment “barbarities” that he understood as a rite (perhaps even
Laderman captured the psycho-analytic aspect of the healing process in “Main Puteri”,
the “shamanistic” healing “psycho-drama” ceremony practiced to restore calm and relieve pain,
by the bomoh-healer. In an induced trance, the patient can express his or her hidden desires -
the inner angin (winds ) - hidden desires or talents and personality traits. The treatment aims at
liberating the angin - that trouble the patient. These angin are similar to the repressed desires
that, in psychoanalysis, cause havoc in the psyche of the patient. The ‘scattered parts” of the
psyche need to be “welded again”. “Pateri” means “to weld” or “to repair” in Malay. As
“puteri”, -princess, has more poetic connotations, “main puteri” is more used as the name of
the treatment. Percussions, flute and incense, cater for the senses while the tok miding and the
tok pateri questions the patient, encourage him or her to dig into his or her soul. The American
anthropologist did not see main puteri (for “pateri”) as magic, but a connection with the
unconscious mind. Today, for schizophrenia - a psychiatric illness that literally refers to “a cut
Another aspect of the therapeutic connection with the local flora is the decor in the healing
ceremony: is not only an ornamental background, but it reconstitutes a world. Plants are integral
part of it. In Malaysia, (Jabatan Kesenian dan Kebudayaan, 2005) If it is held in a specially
built space, that place is made of bamboo, with a “roof” or sky (lelangit) where are placed a
bloom of Pinang palm, flowers of white Cempaka Michelia alba, Gardenia - Gardenia
Jasminum, Geginang -Crotalaria species, bananas, sugar cane, and are ritual part of
41
the evocation of a world, similar to reality, a recreated material and culturally meaningful
place where practitioners can call upon their knowledge and put it to use
Although medicinal or symbolic plants were always present in the life of the people, their
number were far from the actual wealth in nature, and scientists would record them in
systematically.
Away from the cosmological and psychological aspects of the Malay healing traditions, a
actual Malay Materia medica from a compilation “translated by Inche Ismail Munshi,” based
publication in 1935 “A Dictionary of the Economic products of the Malay Peninsula” recorded
no less than 1,300 plants (Ibrahim Jantan, 2004) that have been used in traditional medicine.
Burkill collected the vernacular names of the species, and often their various uses, if any, in
the rest of the world, such as the cosmetic and skin care species Urang aring(Eclipta
alba) reputed from Africa to China or the omnipresent Gandarusa (Justicia gendarussa) and
reprinted in 1971 and 1983) is such a good source on Malay traditional names for illnesses,
treatments plants and human anatomy, that Terengganu Forest Department officers still consult
it today.
42
After the surge in the USA of in vitro massive screenings for active components in
plant species (World Health Organisation, 2000, Gerbhart, 2000), many researchers at
universities all over the world sought new ways to guide their explorations. Scientists in
1981, the FRIM (Forest Research Institute of Malaysia) began collaborating with Japanese
universities and the Massachusetts Institute of Technology. In 1980s, the Universiti Malaya,
began a collaboration with the French Centre for Scientific Research and undertook systematic
research (Chan Kai Cheong and Deverre 1985, Sevenet, 1994 with the University Malaya)
based on the phytochemistry of the plant families that contained alkaloids - one of the plant’s
chemical substances most effective on the human body. Laboratories in Malaysia, such as those
equipped with the nuclear magnetic resonance (NMR) spectroscopy - that helps identify
plants of traditional reputation, but also giving precisions on the actual effect the species and
clarifying matters. One example is the case of synonyms like the three Aji Samat
-Prismatomeris glabra or Salacia macrophylla, or Jacopsis ornata that was clarified byUiTM
researchers (Tengku Azlan Shah et al. 2013). Tentative patents applications were registered on
six of the genus Smilax in Malaysia (George, 2010). Five Callophyllum species were
discovered to have potential anti-HIV activity (Kashman, 1992) while researchers at University
Malaysia Terengganu developed a cosmetic from Cucur atap -Baeckia frutescens (Fadzilah
Adibah A. Majid, UMT, 2018) and proceeded to clinical trials on Ortosiphon stamineus and
toxic effects, Eurycoma longifolia (Tongkat Ali) and Labisia pumilla (Kacip Fatimah) were
Officers from The Forest Department of Terengganu also undertook research on the
medicinal species used by the local practitioners or those commonly known by the villagers
in the state. Two volumes comprising @ 335 species- of “Herba Ubatan Negeri Terengganu”
were published in 2006 and 2011. Other studies by Malaysian universities researchers on the
topic were conducted in villages in Terengganu, by teams from the University of Sabah and
the University Malaya (see Ong and Millow 2011a, Ong and Millow 2011b) in Tanjung Sabtu
and in Mak Kemas . Today, numerous scientific and wider public works have been published
by the Malaysian Agricultural Research and Development Institute (MARDI)together with the
Forest Research Institute (FRIM) such as “Herbs: The green pharmacy of Malaysia” (2000),
and the two volumes of the “Flora of Peninsular Malaysia” (Kiew et al. 2011). In the collection
“Terapi alami” -natural therapeutics- by Ong Hean Chooi, three illustrated small volumes,
providing details on the on the vegetables (2003), on the wild species (2004) and on the weeds
(2014) were published. More popular and including information collected from Indonesia as
South East Asia” (2000) that includes 225 species, of which 175 species are found inMalaysia.
classification. In 2006, Wiart added in the introduction to his most recent book: that “the
eradication of human illnesses will only be achieved when shamanism, traditional medicines,
44
and science work side by side”. That declaration is a far cry from observations made at the
and from all over the world, from Yunnan to Africa and South America. One can compare them
to find out that some of them such as Hibiscus esculentus, Datura stramonium, Punica
granatum, Morus alba, are reputed since a long time from Morocco to India, and often
introduced through Arab sources (Bellakhdar,1997). Many are known from China to Malaysia
and Madagascar such as Zizyphus jujuba, Brucea javanica, Melia azedirachta, Plantago major
and Elephantopus scaber (Sidel,1974, Key J.D.,1976). Other species, someof them perhaps
less spread, have been catalogued, as well as the knowledge on them, more recently, from
villages in South East Asia, in Thailand (Jungsongyuan et al.2000), in Indonesia (Eko Batoro
and Siswanto, 2017, Kasmawati, 2010) and Malaysia, including Terengganu (Ong Hean Choi
2008, Abdul Rahman Mahmud Dougara et al, 2018). Traditional knowledge is caught before
it disappears and will be available for examination, future preservation and eventually modern
uses.
jawi (Malay language written in Arabic letters) script and -if felt necessary, introduce and edit
them, as A. Samad Ahmad did in 1982 for “Warisan Perubatan Melayu” (the Malay
Therapeutic Heritage). This manuscript, copied in 1867 in Kelantan, was kept at the Dewan
Bahasa dan Pustaka. In his rendering, the author acknowledges that he left out of his
compilation “the un-islamic formulas”. The book lists 237 species presented in various
categories; including “village or planted: 52, forest 26, spices: 17; belukar: 113”.
45
Others manuscripts of kitab Tibb -medicinal books- have been decrypted and
transliterated, such as Tayyib al-Ihsan, and Ar Rahmah fiat Tibb, (collections of the National
Museum). Closer to Terengganu, Roland Werner was trusted with the confidences of Nik
Abdul Rahman bin Haji Nik Dir, royal healer in Kelantan, and with a manuscript belonging
to the healer’s family. Werner wrote down every detail, including the rather astonishing
incantations and the not so strictly religious recipes (Werner 2002). By the same year, he
worked on the “Medical book of Malay Village Medicine” compiled in 1930 by Burkill and
Gimlette and the results of Burkill and Haniff methodical investigations in Malay villages over
Malaya, making these accessible, and easy to compare with other sources of in Malaysia.
A linguist, Mat Harun Piah, in 2015, studied and published the first of such
National Library of Malaysia, Mat Harun translated and edited the manuscript entitled: “Ubat
tradisyional” obtained from the Terengganu State Museum which included prescriptions and
indications similar with those of another manuscript (the Kuala Lumpur Kitab Tibb MSS2515)
he had translated earlier. Taking in account the synonyms and non-identified species, a total of
870 medicinal plants found in the forest and in the belukar of Malaysia were inventoried.
Harun Mat Piah underscores the organization and the presentation of the “handbook” he has
translated and, -for a part, edited: The traditional names of the plant species are known, and,
for most, he had them identified in botanical terms. There are discrepancies and some taxa have
been changed, yet, commented Harun Mat Piah, thetherapeutic procedures or treatments are
explained precisely. He noted that the approach to illnesses, medicines and treatments is similar
with the one of Islamic tradition of Ibnu Sina, and refers to Imam Ghazali, and Imam Shafei.
is often reported in manuscripts together with other branches of knowledge or “ilmu”, such as
fiqah -religious law, tasaauf -sufism, falsafah -philosophy, law and ethics. Concerning the
creatures from the invisible world (anasir-anasir lain dari alam ghaib), djinns, devils and
shaitan or satans (devils), Piah noted that the place given to these creatures in the Terengganu
Other than harboring plants species that have many uses for its inhabitants, land is a now
viewed as source of knowledge, or more precisely a place where knowledge can be “written”
and “red”.
Parallel with the understanding of illness and the uses of plants species, the knowledge
on plants species is rooted in the land itself, in the landscapes that offer the plant material to
the inhabitants of a place (Sourkand and Raivo Kale, 2010). Landscapes today are understood
or “read” as expressing the way of life of a people while giving the visual appearance of that
Over the years, the interpretation of the concept of land has moved from a quasi-
2013). Today, landscape has been defined as “an area, as perceived by people, whose character
is the result of the action and interaction of natural and/or human factors” (European
Landscape Convention, Council of Europe, 2000, referring to Carl Sauer, 1925). In Europe,
heritage and a foundation of their identity. This definition puts the focus on the human
experience of landscape (Tweit et al. 2006). Landscapes are now accepted as “places”, that
may have, beyond the land morphology, cultural and floral features essential to the identity of
these places, and so, can be used to understand better the philosophy and the psyche of the
inhabitants of a place. Criteria for cultural landscapes were listed such as in “The informational
reference model” (Stephan and Rachel Kaplan, 1978; the Experiential Approach (Taylor et al.,
Rapoport, 1987, 2004); “Holistic landscape ecology (Zev Naveh, D. Marcucci , 2000); and the
Researchers documenting the features of the house gardens in Malaysia and in Thailand
underscored the “microcosm” character of these cultural units, the harmony between the floral
life and the inhabitants, between needs and activities. While studying the useful plant species
found in these gardens, they observed a balanced land organization and a micro-ecologic
system favorable to the keeping of medicinal plant species. There had been studies done on the
perception of the gardens as the expression of a society, such as in Malacca (Anisa Ani et al.
2021) or a specific function as therapeutic gardens ((Ismail Said, 2003). In Thailand, Gajaseni
and Gajaseni, described the “Ecological rationalities of the traditional home garden system in
the Chao Phraya Basin” (1999). The home gardens were dubbed by other- authors as “in-situ
reservoirs” for biodiversity at all levels: genetic, species, and ecological. (Kujawska et al.,
2018). In Indonesia, in East Java, Tika Putri Agustina et al., (2019) underscored the plant
diversity -447 species- and the knowledge on them in 90 home gardens of the area of Pijon,
currently “facing serious treats, mainly because of globalization and rural tourism
development”.
The importance of the village landscapes and path sides as documents on the vernacular
knowledge on plants has been underlined as well by Robert Voecks (2018), who stressed the
importance of the information collected by inhabitants of tropical countries such as Brazil and
Indonesia, not only from the forests, but from their own gardens or rural surroundings where
those with knowledge would preserve the species -the effect of which they were familiar with.
“weeds”, together with planted therapeutic species in the villages landscape was witnessed.
use may be the object of contradicting interpretations of development. Change has been
reported in Dengkil in Selangor (Katiman et al. 2011) where home gardens and villages have
-in stages- moved from rural areas to become urban settings and parts of the Dengkil former
kampong is not different from the neighboring modern Putra Jaya. Najihah Jafaar and Nor
Zalina Harun (2018) have called for an awareness of the losses of traditional settlements and
have identified the impacting factors: “natural disaster, lack of maintenance, modern
2.4.3 Orang Asli perspectives on traditional plants and the land as a place of
Another area where the situation of the inhabitants is changing is the habitat of the
Orang Asli, as explained already by Colin Nicholas, (2000). It is not only their shelters, but
their natural environment as well. Unlike that of the other inhabitants of Peninsular Malaysia,
the Orang Asli’s “home garden” had no precise limits as their home is generally the forest itself
(Lye Tuck Poh, 2010). On their part, in Terengganu, academic researchers (Ramle1993,
Muhamad Fuad et al, 2021), and the Department of the Orang Asli Affairs (JAKOA) have
recorded the knowledge, the species of medicinal plants and the life philosophy of both the
Orang Asli peoples in the state -the Bateq and the Semoq Beri tribes. They understood how the
Orang Asli have the notion of the forest and its natural landscapes as a “lifeworld” the
The knowledge of the Orang Asli has spread within the material forest paths they
have learned to know through succeeding generations, memorizing the potential resources of
the places in the forest where they take only as much as they need. Researchers Nicholas (2010)
and Endicott (2016) have noted the particular position of the Orang Asli in Malaysia vis-à-vis
the many aspects of “development” that may destroy a previous balance. Lye (2004) reported a
poignant message aimed at the authorities and the land planners in Malaysia based on a warning
given the Bateq community in Pahang about the destruction of the environment. The Orang Asli
concern sounds like a premonition of catastrophe: “Take away the forest, the dunia (world)
ends. We want people to know that the world can end. Already there aren’t trees” said Tebu -
a hala (shaman) of the Bateq in Pahang. “Our nyawa (life-force) lives upon the trees. The forest
is the urat (the nerves or the blood vessels) of our lives”. The planters are removing humanity
The study of the relationship of the people of a place with their natural surroundings
and their heritage is nowadays viewed as an indispensable preparation to plan any sustainable
50
development (Stobellar and Pedroli 2011). A call for a “landscape literacy” (Whiston Spirn,
1998, page? ) -a necessary ability in planning and landscape architecture, to understand the
“words of nature” and human environment, without which, decisions for a sustainable future
could not be made, has long been heard. Zev Naveh (2000) had explained the importance in
the present circumstances of the relation of man with nature. The author added that “many
threatening syndromes indicate that at this critical transitional stage from the industrial to the
post-industrial global information age, humanity has reached a crucial turning point in its
METHODOLOGY
3.1 Overview
Time passing -from 1980 to 2022- has equaled, it seemed, in Terengganu, to a change in
landscapes, in the flora and built surroundings that have affected the interaction of the people
In this chapter, the methodology for producing a verification of this statement is described.
It seeks ways to answer the questions presented in the Introduction chapter: What changes have
occurred in the floral environment and in the cultural landscape or builtenvironment over the
past decades? What is today the status of the plant species in the state, and what is the status of
its landscapes? Are the inhabitants in the same relationship with their surroundings as in the
1980ties?
To empirically capture the elements of change, the disappearance or the resilience of the
past, two sets of data on landscapes, plants and traditional knowledge -the field data from the
past and those from the present time- have been compiled to prepare for an overview of the
Three research methods are presented here: those used in the past era for discovering
medicines, the one used today to evaluate the changes occurred between the past and the
52
present era, and the conceptual background drawn from theoretical approaches used to
3.1.1 Data gathering from the past personal records and field notes
The data for “the Past Era”- 1983 to 2007-, were collected amongst records of visits
and expeditions conducted over time. From 1983 until 2002, they were collected during
ethnobotanical research for private laboratories (SREP, LMD, Pernod-Ricard) and universities,
often in collaboration with the French Centre National de la Recherche Scientifique (CNRS)
and the University Malaya (UM) Universiti Teknologi MARA (UITM). For the years 2004 to
2007, another set was compiled during cultural features data collection for a Master degree in
Landscape Architecture at the University Technology Malaysia (UTM). Further visits were
made in other various areas of the state during these periods. The data for “Present Era” of the
current study, were recorded from 2014 to 2022, during revisits in the previously explored sites.
The areas where the visits and re-visits were conducted and data were recorded aresituated
mostly in the Northern part of Terengganu, the region where the earlier explorations had been
made, allowing comparison over time. The following map provides a general location of these
areas.
53
3 Kenyir Lake
5 Jambu Bongkok
Figure 3.1 Map of the state of Terengganu with the general location of the visited areas and
research sites
54
The research field covers three types of landscapes, with two of them are associated with
the relief of the State: -the coasts, the forest hills, and a third, the river valleys or “villages”,
which are more associated with human habitat. Within each area, two or three particular “sites”
-a total of six- were selected for field study because of their natural and cultural characteristics,
and because they had been visited previously and had been found to illustrate the relationship
The “Coasts”-the first selected area, are often considered as reflecting an important
part of the identity of Terengganu, a state spread in length along the sea with agglomerations
gathered around the rivers and their estuaries. It comprises two sites: Facing the capital of Kuala
Terengganu, in the estuary Terengganu River, the estuarine island of Pulau Duyonghad a
landscape made of mangrove, a forest of tall Dipterocarps and orchards. The inhabitants had
gained a reputation in religious knowledge, naval trade and fishing. The second coast site
extends from Marang to Jambu Bongkok and Dungun. The inhabitants ofthe km long
beach strewn with coconut trees, had found resources in the complex ecosystem between the
The area called “Villages” includes the gathering of habitations and gardens -located
most often along the rivers and their confluents (water ways were in the past a convenient mean
of transport). It has been chosen as it embodies the characteristics of the way of life of the
Malay inhabitants in Terengganu in the past: The “House compound” with their gardensor
“halaman” had been created, where daily life was led according to cultural and practical needs,
as well as reflecting the social status and taste of the house owners. The full landscape
components, -including the flora and the built environment features, of the previously
55
explored house compounds, serves as a part of the general baseline, especially for the cultural
The “Forest hills” area includes the more interior parts of the state. Working along the
paths of the forests with scientists in search of medicinal plant species, was rewarding: Plants,
trees, shrubs, climbers, herbs, including numerous medicinal species, were collected. There had
been opportunities to meet knowledgeable inhabitants, and explore with other visitors who
provided more information on the plants. The “Forests hills”-comprises: hills, mountains (some
are above 1000m such as Gunng Tebu, Gunung Lawit;), and waterfalls, the Kenyir Lake and
its surroundings and two Orang Asli settlements, in Kuala Sayap and Sungai Berua.
The visited sites, individually, do not yield an equal amount of data. The collection
depended on the objectives of the expeditions, accessibility, the time spent there, as well as the
number of informants. Furthermore, development had brought, with time passing by, obvious
changes in each of the sites. Once reviewed, the sites have been found significant in
representing its own category of landscape identity and in revealing the relationship of the
The plant collection was not difficult to gather on the field as Terengganu has a rich floral
background. Plant species, part of everyday life, have been listed from field observations in
good numbers, with the guidance of knowledgeable individuals. With the help of these various
experts, it became possible to identify the species, and note their reputed use and therapeutic
potential.
A list of the main colleagues, companions in the research on the ground, from various
disciplines, whose contribution was often worth months of lectures, each in their domain, is
Table 3.1 List of subject matter experts and informants who assisted during field work
The participants in some field expeditions were typically representative of the pluri-
asli, men and/or women, who would guide the outsiders’ team to the medicinal plants they
knowledge peddler or knowledge interpreter. Collaboration happened and consensus was found
often when medicinal samples from one traditional practitioner would be brought to another,
for him or her to compare (for example, Mat Kapur’s specimen from Jambu Bongkok were
brought to Pak Ibrahim in Bukit Payong ), and often confirmed the use and reputation of the
species; or, when the recorded chemical characteristics of a plant according to its botanical
family was explained to a local practitioner. For example, a Polyalthiabullata, the reputed
tonic and spicy smelling pelah hitam -an Annonaceae, would contain alkaloids, substances that
are effective on the human body. So would the Rubiaceae, explained the phyto-pharmacist to
the local informants; while, in the forest, phyto- pharmacists followed the path of the medicinal
species indicated by the local informant with therapeutic knowledge. A doctor in phyto-
pharmacy (Daniel Jean) would confide one of his prefered clues to the foresters: “It looks
strange, it smells strange, or it tastes strange: it is medicinal.” The foresters readily agreed to
the pharmacognosy clue as they used it already, and both parties from different disciplines or
Apart from the past and current references in the disciplines where research has been
conducted, and before internet arrival in Pulau Duyong, (circa 2000), a few scientific works
provided by the laboratories this researcher worked for were a useful method tool: - Kerharo
(1974) in Senegal, Jamal Belakhdar (1997) in Marocco, the National Centre for Scientific
Research (Fernand Meyer, 2002) documentation in Tibet. These references work explained
their research methods, with detailed monographs and descriptions of plants species, uniting
59
botany, medicine and anthropology. The voluminous “Merk Manual” (1977) the latest -then-
In Malaysia in the 80s, the two volumes of the “Dictionnary of the Economic Products of
the Malay Peninsula” (Burkill 1935, reprinted in 1966), were found at the book store of the
Forest Research Institute in Kuala Lumpur (FRIM). Other few references sources then were
the tomes 1 and 3 of the “Tree Flora of Malaya” from FRIM (1972, 1978), with leaves
descriptions, and Keng Suang’s work on “Orders and families of Malayan Seed Plants” (1978)
with keys to identify the species from leaves, flowers and fruit.
The research then was not destined to be academic, but practical, to find out therapeutic
potential species to study and if promising, develop; yet, following the above, the models of
procedures for botanical research in Belakhdar or Kheraro works, disponibleearlier, were found
to be similar to those recommended later for ethnobotany by Cotton (1996) and Martin (2004).
drug” and 2 “From a (traditional) drug to a plant” typed in the past for the Project Institute
The data from field research in Terengganu were recorded along the years in the form
species, inventories and diaries of species encounters, as illustrated in the following pictures in
Figure 3.2 a) Checking bark pleasant smell of -probably “akar sarsi”-in the Hulu Besut
hills b) Botanical sample and medicinal parts of Cinnamomum molissicimum, Vitis
cinnamomea, and Polyaltia bullata.
The records from expeditions and interviews included pictures, ethnographic and
botanical reports and landscape descriptions of the visited areas. Extracts of some of these
narratives are used to establish part of the baseline datas as records of the past circumstances.
Species inventories were made, by site, by use, with vernacular name, seen or collected,
The journals of plant species were written along the years, following their collection
date, with individual information on each species as they were found, and complemented
during later encounters. Given the humid climate and heavy monsoon floods, the “medicinal
samples”, the botanical specimen or the documents on floppy disks did not fare as well as the
hand-written records on notebooks but, altogether, it was possible to retrieve the gist of most.
In practice, three “pathways”, were used to discover medicinal plant material. The
first was direct observation in the street or at the market in Kuala Terengganu where sellers
would display their goods This would lead to the reputed medicinal part of a species and to
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its vernacular name. (C.M. Cotton, 1996; Jamal Bellakdar,1997; Gary Martin, 2004). The
second method was to follow the botanical classification where botanical families known for
holding active compounds were sought in the natural environment by teams from the Phyto-
Scientifique in France, and the Massachusets Institute of Technology in USA. The third method
was the cultural landscape approach, or that could be called the “bona fame” or“good
reputation” path: Observations were made where villagers grew or let grow around their houses
some species -usually not rare in the landscapes of South East Asia-, thetherapeutic reputation
and the properties of which they knew. This method today is part of ethnobotanical research,
as a direct approach to vernacular knowledge. It was also used on the field by this researcher,
“ground features” for example Inai -Henna, Delima, Zizyphus Mauritiana in the house
compounds in Terengganu.
This path goes from raw traditional Materia medica found with the local practitioners
and inhabitants to plant species on the ground: In 1982, the research had for objective to
particularly in the field of cosmetics which were legally faster to develop for a laboratory in
France. In the eighties already, the activity of local practitioners was on decline.Malaysia
around the city of Kuala Terengganu. Generally, consultation of “bomoh” -or local
medicinal practitioner- was resorted to last, when modern medicine was unable to alleviate
the symptoms. The term bomoh had even acquired a dubious connotation as if the healers
were charms spellers as much as healers. The respectful formula was “dia berubat orang”,
but not actual traditional healers, came in town to sell medicinal products. Particularly
interesting were the presentation in plastic bags of about 300 gr. of dried materials. They were
dried roots, barks, twigs, and leaves, rarely fruit, cut in chips or small parts. The components
were mixed according to the illness or the desired effect. The most frequently advertised were
aphrodisiacs or tonics for men and after-delivery recovery mixtures for women. Other mixtures
were prepared, aiming at specific complains such as kidney stones (batu karang), pain in the
stomach (uluran) or skin problems. The contents of the bags were sorted out according to the
aspect of the wood or leaves chips: texture, smell, taste, color, followed up with meeting the
seller at the market or at his house. There, the objectives of the research were explained. Further
business arrangement was proposed, larger quantities were ordered. Relevant information such
as botanical names and scientific findings were given, if the species was already explored, and
further exchanges in collaboration were proposed, starting with an official letter of appreciation
The following picture shows materia medica as it is sold in bulk, ready to be brewed is
Figure 3.3 a) Traditional Materia medica sold in bulk ready to being brewed is sorted out by
species: Mas secotet, Gajah beranak leaves, Akar sarsi stem wood and bark, dedawai tuber,
betek hutan root b) Back from the forest: roots, wood, barks, leaves. to dry and, for some, to
be sent to the UM and CNRS laboratories.
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To verify the seller assertions as well as to record the vernacular names and reputed
uses of the plants, after checking the literature, other sellers or to practitioners were visited,
with the species, and comparing their information with the one given at the market. Discussions
and tips on “marker features” used in vernacular botany were useful as many specimens found
later in the forest were most of the time sterile: They were the wheel shaped rays of the section
of the Menispermaceae, the pungent fragrance of a Polyalthia with their almost black bark, the
yellowish grey dense texture of the bitter Eurycoma longifolia, the famous dot on the leaves of
Ficus deltoidei. Further information was given on the therapeutic indications and warning as
to the mixture effects and any contra-indications. Then, the concordance of that local
Usually, the seller of roots would accept to lead this researcher on a walk in the nearby
forests (Mat Sakai in Jambu Bongkok) or in the hills (Pak Hin in Tepoh, Pak Da in Bukit
Bintang) to identify the plant species on site. Specimen with their Malay name -even if sterile,
were collected, pressed, dried and mounted on drawing paper. Later they were compared with
the scientific references in the herbaria at the Forest Research Institute Malaysia or at the
University Malaysia, in Kuala Lumpur. Then it was possible to benefitfrom the help of well-
known botanists such as K.M. Kochummen (FRIM) or -for mangrove, Benjamin Stone (UM)
The resulting information was noted in the journal of species, with the location where
the plant was found. Lists with location and lists by informants were made for future reference.
The following Figure 3.4 illustrates some interviews: a). in 1983 with a Tok Bidan in the forest
Figure 3.4 a) Approach through a local practitioner 1983 b) With Ayah Wail 1992 or pak
Hin
That pathway led from chemically known plant families to species collection in quantities:
Phyto-chemists working with local universities such as the University Malaysia (such as Pr.
Chan Kai Chong, who specialized in chemical screening survey for saponins and triterpenoids)
and pharmacists from laboratories gave this researcher the opportunity to organize three to five
days of field trips in the forest. They introduced the method ofmolecules discovery through
preliminary direct phytochemical trial. A makeshift lab was established in the forest with a leaf
thatched lean-to. In the 1980s and 90s, scientists were looking particularly for plants species
expeditions, after confirmation of the presence of the desired components, the species had to
be harvested in larger quantity of 10 kilograms for further studies at the laboratories of the
Figure 3.5 : a) J-C Deverre testing alkaloids, in 1984); b) Large harvest for Dr. Sevenet
(CNRS)1985.
Back in the 80ties, invigorating decoctions (ubat periuk) and health enhancing greens
(ulam) where still in use in their original form. Up to ten years ago, it was still possible to
spot in the gardens and around the house compounds halaman gardens in Kuala Terengganu,
more than 200 medicinal species (Longuet, in Helen Seguin,2010). The “third path” to
medicinal and useful species could be identified through cultural landscape architecture
approach.
This path is found when a garden or a house compound can be “read” (Rapoport,1982) as
holding a cultural message, telling to the passer-by of the beliefs, the cultural heritage and the
worldview of the inhabitants. The species -planted or naturally occurring- most having a
medicinal or health related use- , were inventoried, and consigned in chronological journals
with their “address” in the villages in and around Kuala Terengganu, and some along the main
rivers and the coastal area in the state. Interviews with villagers were conducted, which helped
further identify the “proximity plants” and their -growingly only occasional- uses. The
following Figure 3… show two of the sixteen house compounds in Terengganu where
66
medicinal plants have been inventoried, here respectively a) Seberang Bukit Tumboh spp.
Figure 3.6 The landscape architecture approach: inventories in these two compounds have
produced a total of 91 medicinal plant species, known as such, but most not used anymore by
the inhabitants. ( in house compounds A1 -Aristocrats 76 species , and R 3 -Rakyat 3, 15
species)
3.4 Field data gathering and organization towards a baseline
The three approaches had resulted in a collection of data which were recorded in the form
of notes from daily walks, short trips or expeditions, with reports, site inventories, botanical
recapitulation of the encountered and identified plants amounted to about 600 (587 after
verification of identities) species. These plants were reported as being medicinal in theliterature
as well as by the knowledgeable villagers. More than 300 (323 noted) of them had an “address,
-the location where it had been personally observed, documented and/ or photographed and/or
collected.
To obtain data relevant to change and establish a baseline from where to proceed for
comparisons, the information has been divided in two types of presentation: (1) inventories of
-mainly- reputed medicinal species, and (2) narrative surveys of the explored sites.
Other than to revisit the sites, a method for obtaining data relevant to the objective of
tracking the changes, was to consult the plant collection lists from past expeditions, as well as
the chronological note-books surveys. These hand written lists sometimes include only the
vernacular name and a first botanical identification and sometimes they include the
identification of plant family, and uses. There were as well recapitulative inventories that
gathered all species encountered at certain points in time. Once retrieved, these various field
documents could be completed and their data be presented in an alphabetic table of encountered
plant species.
For this research, a set of two tables comprising recapitulative data on the plant
species. was devised: One is for “Species Identification”, the other for “Value” appreciation.
@ 587 Species encountered during past researches on medicinal plants in Terengganu were
listed. The titles of the columns or headings in the tables were selected following the
information in the plants compilations monographs consulted in the literature and the field
A table of “Identification Inventory” (cf. Full table in Appendix Inventories “General”) with7
columns of characteristics that serve to identify the species was created. The titles of the seven
columns indicate, for each taxon -botanical name, -vernacular name -family, -habit, -
distribution range, -habitat, and -location in Terengganu. An example of this table is given
below:
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The information from the field was later completed with that gathered by archival
research, especially for the botanical “range of distribution” of the species. The latter is an
important factor to determine the frequency of a species over geographic areas and its
reputation, carried over the continents by ancient traditions and trade. It can underscore as well
the rarity or perhaps the relative endemism of a species. For the vernacular and botanical names,
classic references (Gimlette 1929, and Burkill 1966) had usually a good list ofsynonyms that
included the ones used in Terengganu. The local informants were often aware of various
designations or local names in other states. These were later verified in the more recent
compilations of monographs in Plant Resources of South East Asia (PROSEA, 1999) and in
The second table dubbed “Value inventory” had eight columns. The botanical names
and the vernacular name of the species were followed by their location in Terengganu, their
use(s) in Terengganu, their uses in other countries traditional medicines, their phyto-
69
pharmaceutical reputation, their landscape and aesthetic value, and their abundance status as
The data on “part used” usually mentioned in medicinal plants lists was not included, as it
is not directly relevant to the research, although that important information for sustainability
would be duly noted in interviews or site visits. On the other hand, two headings were added:
This second list (“Value”), although used, is not presented here as, once the species has been
identified, the information obtained was overwhelming (much documented in the literature) or
It was noted that the “location in Terengganu” -the exact “address” - as it were- where
the plant had been found, could not be filled for a number of taxa, as that information - although
the habitat was noted- was not precise enough in the documentation to evaluate
70
change over time. So, a third and final inventory was made that includes only the plants that
selecting from the general lists above. It includes only the species with the location where they
could be found again -if it is still present-, during a re-visit as this a most important information
for tracing change. This inventory includes 323 taxa. It documentsboth the “Identity” and
the “Value” characteristics. The column “location in Terengganu” is filled. It is the table that
will serve for demonstrating the sustained existence, the disappearance or the increased
abundance of the plants. As in the larger reference inventories, the value of the taxa is noted
from various points of view such as traditional knowledge, new potentially therapeutic
molecules, aesthetic, and environmental services presented in the full table in Appendix.
The column “Abundance status” refers to the present situation in Terengganu in the
mentioned location: “=” means that it exists; “-“ means: diminished; “+” means: increase, “0”
For the plants botanical identification and phytopharmaceutical components that are
needed for the record, the information was up-dated by research in recent papers on the
mentioned taxa as well as by verification with former colleagues and mentors among phyto-
3.5 Narratives: Visits and Re-visits on sites to note changes in floral and
built environments
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Each site survey is divided in five parts, focusing on both floral and built or cultural
environments: 1) they briefly present the geography, the history and the people in each site,
2) they mention the reputed floral icons. 3) an “ethnological reportage” is made to illustrate the
character of the site, 4) fourthly, re-visits are made with focus on the observed changes in the
The interpretation of the term “site” given previously refers to places visited that
present a unity in landscapes or in type of settlement, even though they may be located at
different places, such as the house compounds with a culturally significant landscape
disseminated in towns or in the country, or the orang asli settlements, as seen in Kuala Sayap
and Sungai Berua. Each of these sites has a value in term of the medicinal species growing in
them and inhabitants who were knowledgeable in traditional medicine. Each of them can be
characterized by particular features that define the main uses of its natural resources. The data
from the surveys were recorded as narratives, sketches, and inventory tables. They provide
descriptions of the relief and flora of the land as well as results of interviews.
The Table 3.4 below gives a summarized view of the first retrieved documentation. It is detailed
by type of landscape and informants, records along the past era, with main ethnobotanical
features, including trends in the use of natural resources or assets, before revisits in present
times.
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Table 3.4 : Surveyed sites in Terengganu and associated features in the “past era”
Jambu Beach, Mat Kapur+ 1984 Bags 400gr dry Small scale trade to
Bongkok beris, low other sellers explorations, roots barks and commercial development
land coast personal and leaves, majun
forest for
labs1985, to
2002
Pulau Estuarine TokBidan 1973, 1983 Fresh Personal care and
Duyung and island Wan Esah, to 2003
samples first aid
Pulau Ketam village inhabitants spp Medicinal
mangrove specimen plants around
and lists houses and in
belukar
Sekayu, Small Botanist, 1983, Environment concept: valuable spp.to
Kenyir hills forests L. Hume, 1988, 2002 and be considered before project
Tersat waterfalls, Prof. exploratory Phytochemis logging -or submersion
artificial Karim inventories try.
lake (UMT) conservationists
and journalists
G.Tebu
Events that occurred along the years in landscape and in the life of the traditional
knowledge holders were reported as well in the narratives. as a base to the future re-visits.
Some decisive events in the history of each site have had a strong impact on the landscape of
73
the considered areas. These are presented in the following analysis as exogen causes of
74
change or disappearance. The re-visits of each site have been done a few times during the years
of this research from 2014 to 2022. There are a new series of maps, profile sketches, for the
changes in landscapes, new taxa inventories per site and new interviews which are compared
with the data from the past, preparing to materialize the visible aspects of the change.
In complement to the taxa inventories by site, and to obtain a broader view of the present
situation of the plant species in Terengganu today, the baseline inventory from the past was re-
viewed according to the existence -or disappearance or increase- of the taxa on the localities
The results of these comparisons established two types of assessment, giving a measure of
the amount of change occurred in the three fields of the research where one is quantitative, the
other is qualitative.
i) Quantitative Assessment
The question - are there more or less plant species? - was answered by counting the number
of taxa (particularly medicinal species) seen during a “present time” in each site visit, versus
records in the past. Re-visits have been re-iterated to verify the first findings.
As landscape changes are often anthropogenic, specific data such as place and dates are
available for dams, road, bridges construction, or clearings for plantations and mines, so that
it is possible to obtain a list of the changes introduced in the landscapes. Similarly, on the
information on the life events of the practitioners as well as their children or disciples.
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To appreciate the value of a plant species in an area, the headings “uses in Terengganu” and
“phyto-pharmacy”, as well as those on ornament and food indicate what valuable assets may
be lost. For the landscape benefits that can be drawn from the flora, the headings “aesthetic and
other environmental values” and “habit” of plants, attract attention to the services that nature
provides to human beings beyond sustenance, including shade, wellbeing, artistic satisfaction.
3.5.2 Cultural features, architecture and ground elements in the house compounds:
As far as the built environment is concerned, its changes are assessed through the
differences over time in the number of cultural and architectural features observed during “re-
visits”
The built environment within the natural surroundings is included in this study as
it was an essential element of the landscape of Terengganu in the past. Inventories of cultural
features and significant ground elements found in the house compounds in 2005 had already
been made, following the criteria reflecting the cultural values attributed to landscape
mentioned in the literature review. There were 54 “Architectural features” and 82 “Ground
elements” identified as present in the past in previous research work (Longuet, in Delfolie
2019). The informational reference model” (Stephan and Rachel Kaplan,1978) and other
evaluation methods mentioned previously are used as well during the” re-visits” as a base
reference to evaluate their persistence, disappearance or increase of the cultural and ground
features in the present times (2013-2020) compared to the past. They are, for their resilience or
As for plants, presence or absence, the results “P”-presence and “0”disappearance columns
are significant for change. “Cultural and ground features” in “Villages” areas signal an impact
on the identity, on the link with nature and on the psychological significance of a
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place for the people, especially in the context of the theories of landscape reading and
interpretation.
The research has used a background of four theories that have assisted in identifying the
significance of the gathered data as well as widening the understanding of the range and impact
and consequences of the change occurred along time over the considered eras.
One important step in the understanding of change in the relationship of people with
plants or cultural features is the change in people’s mind, a psychological revolution described
by Max Weber (1905) at the beginning of the of the 21th century in Germany at first: The
“magical” world that was believed to exist had disappeared. (for which the Malay world was
known in literature). The entwunderung -the disenchantment- left space for reason and legal,
administrative rules as bases for action in human life. The efforts of the Government in
Terengganu -the “transformasi”and “transformasi baru’’, and its concrete development efforts
would be the second important one in Malaysia, after the tauhid revolution, about the concept
Another theory, or quasi philosophical view, -also introduced in the literature review, is
supported by the tenants of the “language of landscape” for whom landscape reading is
essential to understand a country and its people, -from Kevin Lynch (1960) who introduced
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the idea, to the concept of “place legibility” promoted by Anne Whiston Spirn. This reading
view is useful in the analysis of the signs of change and their significance as “words” of the
visited sites as witnessed in the past and in the present times. It is helpful to perceive landscape
changes when numerous elements or “words”, significant in the past may have disappeared, a
change resulting in a “muted” landscape, silencing previously clear landscape messages. These
Another theory that suits the particular social organization reflected in the village landscapes
in Terengganu is the one that Konrad Lorenz developed through his concept of behavior
training, when studying the early “formatting” of animals. The importance of the teaching role
of an environment close to the inhabitants was, on the field, exemplified by Mohd Yusof
(interview in 2017) referring to Raja Bahrin’s drawing and notes (19 on the specific paths
designed around a Terengganu Malays house, where a male guest will enter from the front
while the female takes the direction of the kitchen, the pintu rezeki (“the livelihood door”) at
the back in the compound. Other rules of conduct have been seen as written in the lay out of
the space around the house: a place to clean the feet and leave shoes and other dedicated
features (platforms to rest in the afternoon, ground cleaning on the way towards the main stairs,
The third theoretical approach is holistic: the three spheres supra-system schema proposed
by Zev Naveh and Lieberman, (1994) had been found -appropriate by this researcher (in
Delfolie, 2019) to describe the significance of the habitat of the villagers in Terengganu. In
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microcosms, with their own “noosphere” -the sphere of the mind, the “biosphere”, -the sphere
of life and survival- and “the techno-sphere” the sphere of commerce and communication.
These holons or house compounds could be considered as part of the macrocosm in the central
concept of “Total Holistic Environment (THE)”. This is used in analysis and results to qualify
the considerable change in the situation of the villager from Terengganu, from living in a house
compound in the past era, to living in the present era with a perhaps completely differently
significant habitat.
These theories have prepared to interpret the role of the many cultural features and plant species listed
in inventories as significant “words”. They will help analyze the process of the evolution in the
4.1 Introduction
This part the study is a baseline of data from where the evolution of the state of Terengganu
in its floral and built environments as well as the people relationship with these can be observed.
This is done through comparing significant details in the landscape, the flora and thepeople ‘s
In this first part of the chapter, the role of geology, geography and tradition in the perception
Back in the late seventies and early eighties, when the first documented obsercvations
were initiated, the land in the state of Terengganu appeared as drawn by geological events, for
a long time covered with forests which were used as an ever present resource and were often
It is therefore important to describe the particularities of relief and geography that have a
link with the beliefs and the “ilmu” or traditional knowledge of the inhabitants, the general
In this explaining the research direction, a light is shed first in the past on the people in
Terengganu and their relationship with the vegetation around them, on their world between the
sea and the forest, when nature was a permanent source of a livelihood granted by God (rezeki),
There were the forests and their animals and fruit, the sea with the fish, the squids, the shells,
the paddy fields, the mangroves , the beaches… all with food, building materials, medicines;
but as well inhabited by spirits, and dangers lurking in the hunger of predators and the roll of
the powerful waves. A world that had inspired writers, British and Malays such as Arthur Locke
(The tigers of Terengganu 1954) and S. Othman Kelantan (Angin Timur Laut, 1969 .
The state is filled with figures of immensity, in time and in space, when its relief keeps traces
of the Permian age (299 to 251 million of years ago) in plant fossils identified in Bukit Keluang
(Mohd Shafeea Leman et al. 2008), lower Jurassic (205 to 180 million of years ago) in the
discovery of tooth and other traces of dynosaures found near Mount Gagau, at Sungai Chichir
in 2014, and in the presence of prehistoric tree species such as the Coniferous family, the
Gnetum and Cyrcas species; as well as in the -formerly- vast extent of its forested areas. “of
this area” -refering to Trenganu-,” could a British administrator write “ nearly the whole is
continuous jungle .”(John Crawford 1867 History of the Malay Archipelago). Behind the forest
mantle, the telluric origin of the state of Terengganu remained visible in the mountains and
seashore landscapes.
Spread on 320 km along the China Sea, the land in Terengganu was formed by a series of
geologic events that are rarely found together on such a relatively small area: One was, in the
interior, the appearance of granite mountains with emerging rocks of mafic origin and high
waterfalls; the other was, on the coast side, the progressive creation of a sea shore made of lines
of parallel dunes and water bodies. The maps in the following figures introduce that particular
relief of Malaysia with its general South North direction of the hills and mountains and the
The state is located by the Eastern Range of the three belts of mountainous relief of the
Malay Peninsula, -or “coulisses” -as the geologists call the folds of high Palaeozoic relief
(about 542 to 251 million years ago) that run parallel to each other, over the Peninsula in a
South-North Northwest direction, creating an undulated terrain. Valleys appear between these
folds where, as in the North of the state, the Besut, the Tembat and Petuang, rivers have found
their beds. Smaller stream tributaries fall from the slopes towards flatter land producing series
of waterfalls such as Lata Belatan, Lata Tembaka and La Hot springs. (Location on the fig.
80
map). Once having left the hills, the larger rivers slow down and meadow toward their estuaries
with, in places, patches of sand or sediment alluvions. They flow through palm oil and rubber
plantations and small pioneer towns with official buildings heralding the agricultural
development, toward towns and villages by the estuaries such as Kuala Terengganu and Pulau
Duyong.
In the north of the state, hills or small mountains are distributed in a fork shape around the
valley of the Besut River. A line of peaks marks the border with the state of Kelantan on the
west: Gunung Kambing (1308ft), Bukit Temiang (1249 ft), Bukit Tangga, Gunung Ayam.
Some of the mountains on the right side of the Besut river are higher: starting at Bukit Bintang
(542) of modest height but with a view on the China Sea and on the islands of Pulau Perhentian
and Lang Tengah, while the higher Gunung Tebu (1035ft) is often wrapped in clouds of brume,
in line with its reputation of mystery. Further upstream are, at 1161ft, Bukit Batu Balai, and at
1518ft, Gunung Lawit, the highest summit in the state. Down towards the border of the area is
Bukit Susu Dara (1452 ft). In the South is the region of Hulu Terengganu, where begin the
A most interesting feature of these hills is the occurrence of batholiths or Pluton and “dykes,”
relics of volcanic intrusions of early earth magma explosions that, -hundreds of millions of
years ago, (during the Palaeozoic Era, 542 to 251 M.A. million years ago)- went through the
crust of the earth but did not reach then through the surface. Having been exposed to years of
weathering on the land of the hill slopes, they have emerged. (En. Hamli…, Department of
Geology Terengganu, 2016) The following Figure 4.2 illustrates the process of erosion.
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Figure 4.2 The process of granite hill formation from the earth magma
The well-defined shapes of the emerged mafic rocks and summits have inspired the locals to
give them names such as, in the Peda granite: Bukit Kapal -the vessel hill- or Jong -the junk,
Figure 4.3 a) Batholiths in the high hills b) Map North of Terengganu with areas of
region of Terengganu Peda Kapal batholith, Lata Belatan and Lata
Tembakah waterfalls scale 1: 260 000
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Their petrology -the nature of their rocks- and their extent have been analyzed by geophysicists
(Rajah et al., 1977). and recorded more recently (Tajuddin et al, 2014). The Kapal batholith,
one of the largest granitic bodies in the Eastern Belt, extends from the Setiu River in the north
to Gunong Irong in the south. It also consists of several smaller granitic plutons such as the
Saok diorite, Chengal and Kesing Granites outcrops are exposed mainly on the riverbanks and
Other remains of that volcanic past such as dykes have often appeared later, as streaks of dark
color held in rocks on beaches and other reliefs such as those exposed during excavations in
The second event occurred at the end of the glacial period. The slow warming of the earth
climate resulted in the sinking of the Sunda shelve. That event took place from around 11 000
to 8000 A.D., a long example the effects of climate change- and flooded the Sunda Shelve
continent. It created folds of dunes along the Terengganu coast, forming the sand relief profile
called the BRIS -Beaches Ridges Interspersed with Swales. (Jamilah Mohd Salim, 2011,
“Global sea level rose by a total of more than 120 metres as the vast ice sheets of the last
Ice Age melted back. This melt-back lasted from about 19,000 to about 6,000 years ago,”
At the onset of deglaciation about 19,000 years ago, a brief, at most 500-year long,
glacio-eustatic event may have contributed as much as 10 m to sea level rise with an average
rate of about 20 mm/yr. During the rest of the early Holocene, the rate of sea level rise varied
from a low of about 6.0–9.9 mm/year to as high as 30–60 mm/year during brief periods of
83
accelerated rise. Subsequently, the constant North-East winds and waves during the monsoon
added to the formation of the sand dunes parallele to the sea shore.
Figure 4.4 In pale blue, the sunk area of the Sunda Shelve
The floral composition follows the land slopes and soils Terengganu has beaches,
mangroves, lowland forests, -much of it now replaced in the present times by plantations-, river
valleys with villages and their useful trees and herb species.[ It has been introduced in C1and
will be described further in detail in the following “areas” of part 2 of this chapter, according
Compared with the recessing coastal area, the forests that are found in the inland hills
have remained unchanged since the Pleistocene for about 130 million years. There are less
climbers and epiphytes than in the western range and in terms of species, the vegetation is
closer to that of Borneo (Ruth Kiew 2015). The tree species are reputed for diverse reasons:
their size like the Koompassia excelsia tualang (host of bees), their rarety outside of the
Southern hemisphera like the Araucaria, or hey were deemed lost such as the recently
rediscovered the Aquilaria rostrata (2015), gigantic size such as the Neobalanocarpus heimii
Cengal in Cemerong, or the Melunak (Pentace Burmanica), the largest of its species in
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Malaysia.The forest canopy camphor fragrant Kapur, and on the top of the mountains, where
the monsoon winds blow, then smaller trees and shrubs of heath forests with Leptospermum
Codonoboea (Kiew and Chung 2019), medicinal mistletoes, orchids, gingers Scaphochlamys
small gingers (Y.Y. Sam and L.G. Saw 2005), and translucid Thismyae (Siti Munira, 2019)
without chlorophyll.
Other than providing the use of their trees as building material, -growingly for export-
medicinal ressources or phytochemial leads, forests in Terengganu are known to have offered
retreat areas. Visitors feel the energy of nature at work and will, revere such places where
humanity seems dwarfed by nature. People would practice silat, cults, meditation away from
earthly preoccupations in places such as near “Batu Mat Hassan”, or at “the Madrasah” in
Gunung Tebu.
forces -beneficent or malefic, ghosts, jinns, bunian, spirits that live their own life as creatures
on this earth, on the land and in the sea. Witnesses of powerful waves, fearsome forests, the
There was a constant link with the ever present natural environment, landscapes, flora and
fauna, and their immediat resources. It still is, in some familial local traditions, forbidden to
cut certains trees: bamboos for Wan Yayah family of Kuala Hiliran) or to kill certain animals
etc. in memory of a familial “debt” for exemple the Kekacang fish for Haji Wan Latif family
of Losong.
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The hills were particularly a spirits inhabited place, a source of mystery and unknown, a
refuge for the bertapa meditation retreat. The interpretation of which was singular and had
such as a long pra-islamic acquaintance with the invisible in Terengganu with a strong
attachment to the Islamic faith. Compatibility was found between “magic”or superstitions and
righteous practices. Respect of the learned dogma was not found incompatible,with practices
A matter the interpretation of the correct of spiritual attitude. The attention given to the
“niat”or intention at the moment of the taking of a species, tells of the awareness of the
existence of an owner, other than man. Beyond this respect of the creator, the proper way to
take a species includes as well salam and reference to the prophet Elias (Jabatan Perhutanan
Negeri Terengganu, 2006, p. 208, for the sites in the “Hills” area).
A Form of mystical geology has developed, from the mythical tree (Pau janggi) that lies in
the Indian Ocean to the more scientific Islamic concept of mountains bases (Press et Siever,
2002) in the earth, being deep and, like stakes pegs (“alwatd”), or pasak in timber building, the
Terengganu to be presented here under five of its aspects: The traditional concept of “ilmu”,
its filiations, the artistic metaphors, the traditional therapists and illustrations of their practice
Being brought up with reading the Qoran and listening to the Hadith, a few traditional
practitioners in Terengganu would mention the name of Luqman al Hakim as a proper reference
for the kind of knowledge or “ilmu” they held. Their side of the story of the too successful
doctor whose documents were scattered in the water by angels obeying to God order-, was not
always known in details, but the important point was that their ilmu was connected to Islam
Syed Naquib (1992) has explained another important aspect of traditional “ilmu”. “Ilmu”
is translated by “knowledge”. However, is not only acquired, like science can be, but the word
refers to a knowledge revealed, for which one has to prepare oneself, to deserve it. Furthermore,
knowledge is all encompassing. The disciplines are not fundamentally separated. Medicine can
In villages in Terengganu, human life was connected with the invisible or spiritual world
that dwelled in nature, in the environment. Che Da Wan Khalijah from Pulau Duyung would
advise this researcher (so did the foresters) to give salam to Nabi Alias when entering the forest
The relationship with nature was also a symbiotic experience, where natural elements could
be invested of human intentions. As another woman from PD confided: “Pokok naik naik
menjadi tinggi kepada langit adalah doa dia kepada Allah” -The trees grow and grow tall
It is on that background of closeness with nature and flora as well as from various sources
of influence that the traditional healers would operate. The medicinal Ilmu was transmitted
personally or individually, from many origins, as well as taught in madrasah religious schools
and recorded in Malay jawi or in “Kitab Tib”, -manuscripts of materia medica in Arabic
language.
The heritage in terms of content and concepts of the Malay traditional medicine found in the
Malay Peninsula and in Terengganu had been strongly influenced by the immigration currents
that have touched Malaysia during its history. It has been fed from sources geographically wide
apart and reached Terengganu as well as the rest of old established areas in Malaysia such as
Back in the 80ties, to set the background for ethnobotanical research on medicinal plants
geographical origins and influences, and share the resulting information and sketches with
French phyto-pharmacists. One of them concluded: “Thus, Indian, Chinese, Arabo-islamic and
shamanist components are found. However, Islam, practiced by all the Malays has realized the
present general unity and originality of the traditional therapeutics” (Deverre 1983). Reputed
religious teachers with therapeutic knowledge in Terenggganu came from Hadhramaut -today
Yemen -which had for long a successful trade harbor- such as Tokku Paluh and Abdul Malik.
The families of Tok Sheik Duyung, and Sheik Abdul Khader came from Pattani and Champa
The following documents are extracted from early researches made in 1983 for the SREP.
There are a map (Figure 4.6 a diagram of filiations (Figure 4.7 ) and a table (Table 4.1 ) showing
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the diverse sources of the traditional medicinal knowledge encountered in Malaysia and
especially Terengganu:
COMPLEX FILIATIONS
Proto-Malay sources
Varied shamanitistic and tribal
Local aborigenes
sources
Chinese
Malay traditional
medicine
Persia
Aceh – Java - Sumatra
Grece
Babylone
Ayurvedic
Figure 4.6 The diverse sources of the traditional medicinal knowledge encountered in
According to the need and his knowledge, the bomoh can permute his sources
Concepts Shamanism Chinese medicine Indian Arabo-Islamic medicine Malay traditional medicine
medicine
Metaphysics/philosophy/physics
One aspect of the Malay thinking that this researcher has observed with traditional
pedagogic method. Thus, in architecture, decorative elements, art or craftsmanship are made to
serve a further purpose. As reported in the Literature review, it can be said that the cutting blade
is a tool of expression, a writing tool like a pen; plants with their stems, twigs, leaves, sprouts,
flowers and fruit are as the words of a language; carving patterns are sentences, using the moves
or kerawang. In the Spirit of wood, Farish Nor and Eddie Kho have noted how young leaves are
carved to bow in front of old ones, and how a sharp point in a leaf will not be made to strike
(“tidak menikam”) another leaf. The significance of the carved panel is embodied in the paths
of the leaves.
The relationship between the material and the crafted world has a metaphoric, even mystical
significance. Function- aesthetics -significance are associated. The two examples of carvings
Figure 4.7 a) Cut out carvings in Kota Lama b) Tridimensional carvings on the House
Duyong: of Tokku Paloh
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The Kota Lama carving may be understood as an image of the life of man: The stems and twigs
are linked to one source, develop in loops and circles in youth and maturity but remain framed
in the geometric design (of religion) and return to the source (punca) of their creation.
In the fig. 4. The carvings on the wall of Tokku Paloh’s and Haji Wan Abdul Latif’s housein
Losong have each a wall with similar tri-dimensional motives that can be interpreted as a
representation of “Ilmu”: Here, the branches are presented as ascending from one another,
linked and returning to one source (Punca), probably the spirit of the Creator of all knowledge.
In conclusion, it appears that for a long time, plants where part of the people life, and not
only (as usually admitted for villages) alive- around the house, providing food, fragrance,
shade, but they were part of the house architecture as well, not only as building materials, but
as aesthetic and didactic elements on the doors and windows; and, when the sun went through
the sobek tri-dimensional carved panels, they entered inside the house, reproduced on the
wooden floor.
In the past (1985-2005), in Terengganu, the four elements -air, fire, earth and water were
known among some of the practitioners. Wood of Chinese tradition, was not mentioned. Ibn
Sina was heard of among some. The concepts of humors and temperaments seemed to have
been mixed, but remained the idea that a balance in the body had to be maintained. There was
a routine evocation about hot and cold food and a consensus seemed to exist as women
Everyone seemed to know what was “cold” and “what was “warm”. Kangkong, as many
vegetables, was evidently sejuk, so were the betik -papaya and bananas(Massard 1983,
Laderman,1988). Illnesses were described in relation with urat -nerves and angin -winds.
In Kuala Terengganu, four Sensei had established Chinese medicine shops, two of them
with consultation cabinets, each with a qualified practitioner giving prescriptions and
practicing acupuncture. Indian groceries for medicinal spices were established in Kampong
Cina street, and at the market, “Habib” had a booth, providing Sepang Kederang (Caesalpinia
sapan, Cudrania sp. ) and spices. Both Indian and Chinese sellers had local Malay consumers
Hakim and to the Tajul Muluk. Hot and cold balance were of importance. Prescriptions could
be given according to the patient needs as identified, but there was no apparent therapeutic
system.The personalities of a few of practitioners and informants are presented in more details
in their house within their respective “site” in the following part of this chapter.
Not wanting to appear questioning the knowledge of a practitioner, this researcher refrained
from exploring their eventual panoplies, even though it seemed already (in about 1990-2002).
that the familiarity with traditional knowledge as a system was regressing, Concepts and beliefs
were verified, not through the informant healer’s explanations, but quite often through village
If knowledge in the Malay Peninsula did come from four directions of the compass, in
practice, a part of the medicinal species came from different sources in the proximity of the
What was evident is that, in matter of therapeutics, there were specialists who could be
identified, not as coming from ancient schools of traditional medicines, but more as local
possessors of knowledge, a knowledge dispersed and the origin of which for them was traced
Examples of holders of traditional medicine knowledge met in the past are given below: the
medicine sellers, the givers of treatment, the field guides, the esoteric school, and the everyday
practitioners.
Five traditional medicine sellers form an important group of informants for the research:
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Encik Hassan sold small bottles of “Minyak Geliga” made from of Gelam (Melaleuca cajuputi)
leaves, an oil that a lady distilled in her house in Kuala Terengganu. Encik Hassan had a
network of customers including the government midwife in the klinik bersalin -delivery clinic-
of Pulau Duyong.
Habib sold imported spices as well as the local Sepang Kederang in his booth at the main
Encik Roslan from Marang was knowledgeable in women tonics for after delivery. Still
today: his wife is active at the pasar tani t-he farmer market in Kuala Terengganu.
Mat Kapur had a considerable display of bags of medicinal roots and leaves near the bus
station in town, there were postpartum species, tonics for men etc. The report on his activity
and medicinal plant inventory is part of Jambu Bongkok site documentation and appendix.
Pak Hin, who was perhaps in his 60ties in 1985, was a known figure around the streets of
Kuala Terengganu, sporting long hair, dressed in black sailor pants, shirtless, with a bracelet
of kayu bahar (black coral) on the biceps. While entertaining a small crowd of interested
passers-by, he gave verbally a list of the species in his ma’ajun panacea. Like often with
ma’ajun pills, it was complex, based on spices with added reputed local roots (100+spp. list in
appendix)
Besides selling, some knowledgeable people also provided treatment. Five of them assisted the
research. First, there was Haji Da Padang Air -a jovial old man, with a pointed beard, the father
of whom had immigrated from Java. He gave massages for fractures and practiced bekam
Wan Ismail Wan Yahya, originally from Kuala Hiliran on the Terengganu River, belonged
to one of the first group of people who opted for participating in the rancangan pioneer
settlement of Felda Jerangau in the 1960ties. In 1985, he collected for the French phyto-
chemical laboratory large quantities of dedawai -Smilax myosotiflora. His son explained that,
as part of his amanah -a legacy from his guru, he could not refuse to assist someone who
Pak Su Man, 68, Sungai Rengas, was a relative of Tokku Paloh, he was also nicknamed Pak
Man “Castro” as he had received commando training with the army in other times. In 2003, he
had established a modest wooden “klinik” where he stored medicinal plants and some other
Sporting a thick mustache, then 40, Pak Daud Mohamed also from Sungai Rengas, was a
masseur, using medicated oils. Himself a silat proponent, his specialty was more sportmassages
In Kampong Nerus, the brothers Wan, who had worked as assistants at the Terengganu
General Hospital, practiced from their house in Kampong Nerus where they helped for
fractures and other results of accidents or athletics damages. They used traditional poultices as
There was Pak Da Muda Ayub who lived at the foot of Bukit Bintang hill. In 2002 he was
a retired collector of plants but sometimes led botanical explorations on the hill.
Pak Ibrahim, 50, of Pengkalan Merbau, was a forest collector. He showed all the edible
species he used to find in the belukar around his village. For the French Research Laboratory
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he collected 10 kg of Mytragyna speciosa (Ketum). “Each plant has its use, he said, but we do
not know it yet”. When inquired if there was anything he would be interested in receiving, he
Pak Husein was a practitioner in his village and around, as well as a collector for the state
Other practitioners had more exclusive specialities: Ayahku Sheik Abdullah had
organized in his village at Kampong Pengkalang Atap a center for rehabilitation of (mostly
young) drug addicts, using prayers and personal training. He confided trying a particular
Nibong -Orania sylvicola. The soporific power of that nibong was later evoked years later by
a plant technician in Kenyir “can carry a man asleep without him being aware of it because he
On his side, Ustaz Zakaria of kampong Paloh delivered bottles of blessed water to children
Many treatment providers were known in their village for a particular effectiveness:
Other than Mak chik Esah would provide all peri-partum treatments, Ayah Da Neng a jeragan,
-fishing boat skipper- in Pulau Duyong, also known for his silat knowledge, accepted to treat
people brought to him by friends. Together with a medical doctor from France, it was witnessed
how he cured a 15-month-old baby girl from a painful intestinal invagination. Prayers and water
aspersion stopped the crying on the spot. The child did not show any more symptoms after that
consultation.
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Also in Pulau Duyong, Ayah Man was a specialist of the campak measles in Pulau Duyong.
Besides his incantations and prayers, to lower the fever, he advised a shower with boiled
Kankung (Ipomea aquatica). En. Ali (specialist of uluran abdomen inflammations) did
Abdul Rahman lived in a house by the roadside toward Kampung Kesing. He was reputed
as a bomoh and gathered plants species from the forest near Kuala Berang such as Akar sarsi
hole in the heart” with a secret species, and he deplored the deforestation for agriculture that
There were others who, progressing in age, feeling they had gained enough knowledge to
help, declared that they could berubat orang - treat people- with their prayers. In Pulau Haji
Siak a man gathered a team of assistants to catch the jinns a village lady claimed disturbed her.
The team caught the jinns and put them in buyung copper jars. On their side, The State Museum
has kept a list of all those who wished to be registered as traditional practitioners with their
The type of knowledge or “ilmu” found in Terengganu was illustrated as in the three
This kitab Tib has been found in Terengganu. Acquired by the State Museum in 16.10.1984
from Tengku Ahmad Roslan bin Abdullah, it is, in 312 pages, a large material medica of the
19th century-early 20th century. About 800 medicinal substances-including repetitions-, are
inventoried, as well as illnesses, symptoms, and the related therapeutic practices, with parts of
the plants used as well as other natural products -stones, animal parts, and the related
preparations, are described. Harun Mat Piah (1937- 2019) has produced a full rendition of the
Another document was given in Duyong Kecil to a family member of this researcher by a
follower of the author. The 82 pages “Hakikat Insan” dactylographied document came
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originally from Kelantan. It explains esoteric practices familiar to sufi students and illustrate
In the zikir bond between the human body and the practice of prayer, the heart is the physical
place of the incantation in the body of the believer. The qalbun (hati, liver, jantung, heart).
Both zikir and qalbu are illustrations of the individual perceptions of the believer on the steps
of a mystical path. The zikir follows the rhythm of the heart, then makes the other parts of the
iii) Bekam
The third document is 2 meters by 1-meter 40cm board hung on the wall of a clinic in Padang
Air (Nerus). It informs of the operation hours from 7 to 10 in the morning, warns that sleeping
afterwards before 7 pm is not recommended and that bekam cupping is for people from18 years
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old and above. Pak Weil -the practitioner- gives the indications of bekam and the parts of the
body where the cups are applied, corresponding to the patient complaint described in a mixture
of modern and traditional Malay terms such as gout, high blood pressure, male and female
Part II: 2 Visits and Revisits over time in the tree main areas of landscape
The sites where researches have been done and re-conducted over the years have been
introduced in the chapter on methodology with their location map and details on their particular
identity in the past era. The following narratives develop the information on each of these
places.
The “coastal areas” comprises two sites: Pulau Duyong, an estuarine island -which is dubbed
“My Island of autarchy” and the coast from Marang to Jambu Bongkok dubbed “Survivors”.
To illustrate the atmosphere of the estuarine island of Pulau Duyong, two pictures show (
Figure 4.11) The timber planks drying for boat building in front of a house with a tekup double
Figure 4.11 Pulau Duyong 1975: Cengal planks for boat building and “tukup”
kitchen double roof for smoke exhaust
Figure 4.12 Pulau Duyong 1992 Kekabu tree and rest “gerai” by the river
i) Geography
The estuary of the Terengganu River is oriented North East towards the China Sea,
between the hills of Bukit Datu, Losong, and Bukit Puteri -a rocky promontory with a
lighthouse that overlooks the sea and the land. The capital of the state, Kuala Terengganu,
is built on the right side of the river as well as the oldest street, the central market, and the
ancient royal palace. Three main large islands are found in the middle of the river. Two of
the islands, Duyong Besar -the big mermaid, and Duyong kecil -the small mermaid, were
given their name after the dugong sea grass amateurs, a mother and a daughter who were
stranded on the sands. On Pulau Ketam, the third island, it was a ketam emas, a golden crab,
that is said to have been found. It is a current practice in Terengganu to use the nameof
Figure 4.13 The islands in the estuary of the Figure 4.14 View on the estuary from
Terengganu River in the past. Duyong in the the first guest house on the island
@1990 [ Pic: Kota Lama door gates and
estuary of the Terengganu River 1987
plaster carvings 1920 restoration 2004]
ii) Landscape
Seen from the town over the Terengganu River, at first, the islands of Pulau Duyung Besar
and Pulau Ketam could appears like a dense mass of riparian trees and abundant shrubs
interspersed with coconuts trees if it were not for, running along their length. an impressive
“dorsal spine” of chengal pasir -Hopea odorata- trees that are up to up to 30m in height. The
umbrella shaped crowns of these cengal trees provide a deep green background to thelandscape.
Down inside, streamlets cross the land, surrounded by a mangrove rich in Nipah, Brugiera,
Euphorbiaceae and Alstonia species. Houses are hidden among fruit trees and the rest of the
naturally abundant vegetation of native belukar -secondary growth or “rak” as the inhabitants
call the spontaneous vegetation that spreads over any unoccupied part of the 2 km long and 800
In places, the soil -a mixture of alluvium, with clay, sand, and humus (Biot et al. 1986)- was
so fertile that, in the past, rice fields and vegetable were grown by Chinese gardeners and
“Pulau Peria”-Momordica charantia- was the original name of Pulau Duyung. Bananas grew
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on the South eastern bank where royal elephants came swimming to feast on them. (Othman
1995).
Part of the visual and sound landscape was provided by the birds: Merbok who sing in duo,
the mangrove whistler, Blue raja udang who shouts on the wing, Capling who gather in noisy
meetings, yellow Kunyit and the large black Tuhu malkoha. There were occasional hornbills,
squadrons of swiftlets and the seasonal white egrets perching in the mangrove after resting on
the back of buffaloes in the paddy fields on the mainland. The Burung lang Haliaeetus
leucogaster with a wingspan up to 7ft, would be planning above the waters, before landing on
Fertilizing fauna and trees looked after by successive generations contributed to a diverse
ecosystem. Human and animal life interacted on the estuarine lands. Timber houses on stilts
surrounded by carefully laid out compounds had diverse architecture and ground accessories.
Aristocrats had pagar fences, carvings on doors and above windows -often as pedagogic as
aesthetic- such as in the Kota Lama Duyong or on their large “Serambi” balcony, as that of Pak
Wan Su in Duyong Besar. Owners of paddy fields on land had a “Baluh padi” shed to store the
rice. Ground elements told of the daily life: There were wells, many jars for water and
preserves, “Pankin” (‘gerai’ in Terengganu language) -platforms for work and rest, and
benches, sometimes with chess games carved on the planks. Half hidden under the greenery of
hundred-year-old mango trees, gable roofs covered with dark red tiles or brown “Nipah” palms,
offered shelters and pathways to fruit-loving bats, squirrels, and foxes. There were as well
whistling “Ceriang” insects, butterflies, monitor lizards, and mounds-building termites which
On the northern bank, coves provided mooring to “Sampan” -small boats. On the southern
side, at low tide, sandy beaches areas emerged where the larger fishing and cargo boats would
be stranded for repairs. For more than three decades (1970-2005), close to the shores, “Cengal”
(Neo-balanocarpus heimii) planks set crosswise to dry, heralded the local and international
fame of the islands in boat building. Another component essential to the islands landscape and
daily life were wooden titian bridges crossing over the swamps in the interior, or built on the
shore for the “Moto-nambang” ferries, which brought people as well as their goods, from and
to town. The ferries would depart to cross the river at the will of the conductor; so, during the
Notwithstanding the smell of dried fish often prevalent on some paths, Pulau Duyong
was not a fisherman’s village, but, since the 19th century, had a particular vocation: It was a
convenient stop over for Malay groups, who travelled away from troubles in Pattani, Kelantan,
and, earlier, from the disappeared kingdom of Champa in central Vietnam. “We came
originally from Kochi” informed Tuan Haji Wan Daud, a “Nakhoda” -sea captain- from a
prominent family in Pulau Duyong. The islands provided not only a refugee harbor but a retreat
place -“Tempat bertapa”- for religious people to retire or go there to participate in the reading
of ancient manuscripts. Reflecting the activity of the people who settled there, where the ulama
-religious teachers -such as Tok Sheik Duyong, (@1820- 1900) or legists such Datuk Biji Sura
(@1870-1945), and those who donated “Surau” -Muslim chapels: a “Syed” from Iraq (Surau
al Baghdadi) Haji Kalsum or “Cik Istana” (Surau Puteh) and Haji Omar (Surau Nibong);
It was also a trading harbor, with up to 80ft-long sailing vessels and their “Nakhoda”
carrying from Ban Lan in Thailand the irreplaceable necessity of the times: salt, -as well as
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rice, penicillin, and opium. The third group of residents and the most recent in time, were the
“juragan (juru ragam)” or skippers of engine-powered fishing boats. [There were, often from
the same familial group, enterprising businessmen, engaged in trade over the China Sea and
owners of fleets of fishing boats]. Boat building thrived as timber could be brought by rafts
from the forests up the river and, later, by petrol powered ferries. Fishing vessels from 45 to 80
feet, were built. The houses of wealthy traders and respected religious personalities were
The primary school, third open in the state, could be a stepping stone for the villagers
who wished to enter the outside world; however, work could be found close to home, as crew
on one of the family boats, as apprentice with an uncle in timber house or boat building. The
older people went to Mekkah, transmitted their knowledge, and helped the new generation to
replace them in their teachings or in their trade. Women rolled “keropok” -fish sausages-, dried
fish, baked traditional cakes, collected greens, and provided health care by massages with
herbs-based oils and assisted in deliveries. They were chicken, goats, ducks, even a batik
“factory” and a gold jewelry workshop. Two ladies paddled on their sampans to the market to
fetch extra vegetable, maize, and tobacco, for their small shops.
[This is a record of an impression born from half a century living there. cf. in C 3
methodology warning: emic observations. Add a Transition to presentation for next flora,
icons”and herborizing]
In the middle of the eighties, naturally occurring trees were the multi-storeyed
“Ketapang”Terminalia catapa, dark “Rhengas” with their large roots, long fruited “Tui” -
spreading “Angsana” or senna -Pterocarpus indicus, and “Bidara” - Ziziphus Mauritiana, along
the more sunny area of the streamlets. There were as well planted species, beyond the vertically
folded trunks of the “Duku”, the lanky durian, the “Rambai” -Bacaurea mothleyana-
, stout grey “Setor” Sandoricum koejape- rambutan trees, “Kekabu” with their fluffy spindles
hanging down, refreshing “Belimbing” -Averrhoa carambola, star fruit- and the smaller
“Belimbing besi”, many “Jambu” -Syziphus, Jambu Batu” -Psydium guava, “Jambu golok” -
Wild vegetation on the islands flourished along with the human settlement. Amongst
these, dominating by their physical presence, and because of their relationship with the
inhabitants, some species -although common in Malaysia, were particularly important, (or
By their sheer size and appearance, “Cengal pasir” trees and “Pohon nyor” -coconut palm
trees in Pulau Duyong language- formed the visual core of the landscape. Both species do grow
on other grounds, even not far on the mainland, where they are often planted; but as the
estuarine islands were naturally secluded, these trees were de facto more part of the life of the
people of the islands than in other places. The “Cengal kampong” or “Cengal Pasir” -Hopea
odorata- offered the comfort of their shade, timber material, masts, and spars for sailing boats.
They are associated to -the now legendary- sailing years of the “Perahu besar”. They are found
Figure 4.15 a). Hopea odorata: circumference 23’ at breast height (in Pulau
Ketam), b) and c) flowers of Hopea odorata (Pulau Duyong).
Hopea odorata –“Merawan siput jantan”, by its local trade name, is an evergreen
Dipterocarpaceae tree with a large crown, growing to 45m tall, with a straight bole, branchless
to 25m, with a diameter of up to 4.5m and prominent buttresses. The bark is longitudinally
furrowed. The leaves, ovate-lanceolate, 7-14 by 3-7cm are dark green, slightly shiny with short
petioles. Pollinated by thrips insects, this Hopea bears sweet scented flowers and fruits almost
regularly every two or three years in mass -meaning “all individuals at the same time”-
blooming. [In May 2014, they were observed particularly doing so in Pulau Duyong, covering
the ground with a yellowish white carpet of small flowers.] The gyrating winged fruits would
then be dispersed by wind and germinate readily on falling to the ground, remaining close,
Apart from those dispersed further around, 30 individual trees have been counted in Kubur
Cengal, -the Cengal cemetery, and the same number were found in the Kubur Rambai cemetery
of Pulau Ketam. Providing shade for those inhabitants who come to remember their relatives,
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the trunks of the Hopea odorata trees look like the columns of a vast hall, and their high crowns
In South East Asia, the astringent bark of the “Cengal pasir” had therapeutic uses
(Simmathiri and Turnbell 1998). In Laos, it was reputed to be useful for healing wounds and
sores. In Pulau Duyong, with their straight trunk that branches high, strong and yet souple, they
were the ideal masts for the sailing boats. Their damar -resin- would be used in caulking boats.
In the nineties, there were dissentions among the various landowners in Pulau Ketam, near
the mosque, about cutting some chengal trees. As for a young child, a “Tangkai” amulet was
tied around the trunk of the oldest tree as a protection from any project to fell the beloved
heritage asset.
The other iconic species was the Cocos nucifera palm, “Pohon nyor” in Terengganu
language. As in many other communities, from the Pacific to the Indian Ocean, that species
provided endless services. Because of the relative isolation of the island, the coconut trees
products were closer than purchased goods, always at hand. During the 80ties and the 90ties
“Yusof panjat nyor” -Yusof the coconut tree climber- had a special place in the community of
Pulau Duyong. In Pulau Ketam, a trained monkey was seen going to work, seated in the basket
of his owner’s bicycle. Some coconut trees were planted. Many had been just left to grow.
Bending over the river, they invited children to climb up and jump in the water. They were
used every day. Each part of the coconut tree was present in many aspects of the life routines.
The fruit provided oil, “Santan” -cooking milk, sugar, recipients, “Sabut” -fiber for ropes, fuel
for the kitchens. The trunks gave construction material, and the palms, brooms and sliding
games. In a haunting song and dance, seven fairy princesses take turns swaying a “Mayang” -
a coconut tree blossom- over the body of a sick fisherman to restore his health and spirit. Some
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of the habitants of Terengganu with a sailing history had perhaps a closeness with the gigantic
palm, having found life on land, but had needed the sea as well to travel and find a place to
settle. On a more prosaic note, close to the shores on the northern bank of Pulau Duyong, was
a commercial exploitation of coconuts, and a coconut shell based activated carbon enterprise
Figure 4.16 a)“Bong”, coconut de-husking tool, b) Fig Nipah always at hand.
Among the other palms, many had importance for the people in Pulau Duyong. Ever present
in the mangrove, the Nipah -Nipa fructicans, provided roof covers. It gave its fruit as well as
wrappings for the “Rokok daun”, the hand-made cigarettes dear to the men of Pulau Duyong
who preferred the raw chinese tobacco [from Kuala Berang in Terengganu] to cigarettes. The
“Mengkuang” -Pandanus growing around the cemetery, served to weave mats and bags which
As mentioned previously, Pulau Duyong was not initially on the list of the areas to study for
the botanist Lynwood Hume or this researcher, but the vegetation of the island where we lived
was attractive, diverse and used by the local people. It was attractive to walk around,
herborizing in Pulau Duyung, from May to October1983, unaware that it could be preparing
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for comparisons in change over time many years later. Here are the species described then
(Lynwood Hume, 1983). Lynwood own writings, showing the point of view of a foreign
botanist are quoted in brackets Some more recent pharmacological remarks are added to
Gluta renghas that has “strange ribbed bumpy fruit brought by the current” and tortuous
roots diving in the river; its dark red wood is a skin irritant; Lagerstroemia speciosa, “Bongor”
at the end of the Pulau Ketam, is “offering its masses of lavender flowers to the sun”. Its
spreading branches giving a shelter to the local doves. Like the Rhengas, and the ubiquitous
mangoes, Bouea macrophylla is an Anacardiaceae. Its yellow orange “Buah setor” fruit is often
acid, its dense foliage provides shade and has medicinal uses.
Two species of “Mengkudu” were omnipresent: Morinda elliptica, whose fruit becomes
black, and is smaller than Morinda citrifolia, a post-partum medicinal whose leaves are used
to wrap the “Tungku” stones -local hot water bottles. Their small white flowers have a
“delightful fragrance”
Among the small trees and shrubs, two were intriguing: Rauvolfia verticillata, the small
Apocynaceae “with its characteristic contorted corolla and white flower”, a cousin of Rauvolfia
serpentina, the hypo-tensor dear to Mahatmah Ghandi. Phyto-chemist Christophe Wiart (2006)
mentions the specimen from Pulau Duyung given by Lynwood Hume to the herbarium of the
University Malaya. This Rauvolfia, called “Batu pelir kambing”, did not seem to be known in
Trichilia connaroides, a Meliaceae medicinal in China (HY Wang, 2013) “with fragrant
flowers and attractive, large clusters of red fruit. It is an insect antifeedant”. Mice, eager to taste
Dolichandrone spathaceae (Bignoniaceae) “Tui”, usually found at the edges of tidal rivers.
The 30cm long pods of its fruit were “quite a sight”, so were “its flower (“mangrove trumpet”
Sapium indicum, (Euphorbiacea) Gurah, “its graceful, pendulous branches lined the jetties
that cross over the swampy stream running along the length of Duyong Besar”. The slow
burning wood is used after delivery for warming the “Tunku” -local hot water bottles- under
the “Gerai bersalin” post-delivery platform. The seeds serve for children in the game of “Main
Fagraea racemosa, “Setebal”, its thick oval leaves and fragrant flowers are used in the
Sauropus androgynus (Euph.) “Cekur manis” is a -sometimes planted- shrub, and a common
diuretic vegetable. It has dark leaves with attractive red and white flowers.
Wilkstroemia indica, “Depu”. Its red and small fruit is found on sandy places areas in the
East coast. There is poison in the bark and the seeds. The leaves are laxative.
Leea indica, “Memali”, has long leaves with wavy margins, and a fruit favorite of the
bulbul.
Aristolochia tagala (Aristolochiaceae) “Akar ketola hutan”: “The fruit, according to the
stage of maturity and dehiscence, is a pipe, a Nepenthes looking trap and a parachute”.
Psychotria sarmentosa, “Akar daldaru” is “a climber that grows up the trunk of trees. The
Flacourtia inermis (Flacourtiaceae) “Buah ceri Siam”: The edible sweet black fruit reminds
of cherries. It grew over the wall of one of the stately houses, hanging outside the compound
wall.
Lansium domesticum, “langsat/duku”, has deeply fluted trunks that evokes the folds of the
Malay women dress “Baju kurong”. The smoke from the burnt skin is reputed repellent to
souvenir of the Champa or Pattani origins of the people in Pulau. Duyong. There is a Kebun
Manilkara zapota, “Buah Ciku”, (in Aztec “chikl”) “it is medicinal, and its high tannin
content, bark can be used for reinforcing sails and tackle ropes”. It was seen planted in front of
the house of an owner of a “Perahu besar” sailing trader, close to a “Dedap” tree -Erytrina
variegata- the red flowering of which a signal of the end of the North East monsoon and time
Lawsonia inermis, -Inai, a “spidery shrub”. Its dye, oxytocic, preserve the nails and the hair
of the human body. It is an effective oxytocic (Kheraro,1974) and is associated with ceremonies
and religious traditions and red fingers in Pulau Duyong signaled marriages in the family.
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As I was adding “Bonglai”, “Keduduk”, “Bayam peraksi”, “Kemunting cina”, and other
“Batang kemoyang” to my list; “You and your weeds” exclaimed LH. Villagers volunteered
information on some plants and asked about the therapeutic use of others. “They thought that
Later along the years, this researche continued the collections, meeting in mangroves
“Bebuta” -Excoecaria agallocha, “Ketuil” -Derris trifolia and “Pulai” -Alstonia angustifolia.
In Duyong Kecil, Toh Puan Aisha, a daughter of Dato Biji Sura, remembered her vegetable
garden, her “Nilam” jasmine, “Putat” -Barringtonia racemosa and “Bidara” - Ziziphus Jujuba.
Three house compounds with their garden from the island were chosen among a total of 16
compounds for studying details of landscape architecture (Longuet, 2007). Inventories of the
plant species made in Pulau Duyong in 2005 have been compared with the situation in 2019:
(Appendix A, 2 specific).
[In 2005, Pulau Duyong was being developed with concrete banks, and ambitious projects
were prepared around a world class sailing event on the Duyung Kecil Island the “Monsoon
Cup” (2005-2015). The people of Duyung were invited to participate in a meeting on the
project, and its benefits for the inhabitants. Presenting the existing assets of the island was
proposed (Pekeduy 2005). This researcher gathered an inventory of the islands’ floral assets.
(Appendix to this chapter); to record the value of the floral wealth of the island. It has been
In the 80ties and 90ties, ancient traditional knowledge was alive on the island. As noted
earlier for Terengganu, following the general tradition, practitioners on the island were
specialists. They were “Bomohs” or “Orang berubat orang”, for measles or for kidney stones,
“Gurus silat”, with all kind of treatments, “Majun” sweet pills of spicy medicines, and teas
formulas. Some were said to” “Bela”, to have a jin or a “Khadam” at their service. Ghosts
haunted swampy areas and places around cemeteries. Some villagers with “Ilmu” -knowledge-
would remember the “Tajulmuluk” and the four elements. Most of them referred to “Sejuk”
and “Panas” -cold and hot, for food and medicine. “Angin” -wind, (as in Chinese traditional
medicine) had a large role in the symptoms and in causes of illnesses. For example, a kind lady
advised, to salute Nabi Khidir before going sailing, and Nabi Ilyas before entering the forest.
Before a bridge was built over the island (1990) with roads to the islands below, there were
ferries going to town to bring commuters those who had work there or the shoppers, traders,
school children. However, many of the inhabitants were in the habit of relying on their own
resources –those of the islands- for food and medicine, from fishing and from the vegetation
around.
To cater for a population of around 3000 (census 1985), of which about 1 500 were adults,
a government peri-natal clinic was settled near the school and, in case of need, after “Bomoh”
help and advice, hospital was used as well. A cholera epidemy was energetically fought by
vaccinations at the school during daytime and, at night, by religious chanting processions
“Selawat” all around the island led by the “Imam surau”. Sprains were dealt with poultices and
kidney stones by massages. Some elders, expert in religious matters, used prayers and “jampi”
blessed water. (I have seen all this be done and as far I know, experienced, or was experienced
i) Delivery at Home
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A revealing and frequent aspect of the traditional knowledge in medicine and in plant
species was the “peri-partum” practice of the “Tok Bidan”, the village midwife.
The following report (Personal document, 1985) is gathered from direct observations and
personal experience of deliveries and peri-partum treatment in Pulau Duyung and villages
around Kuala Terengganu. A trusted traditional practitioner in Pulau Duyung was Mak Cik
Esah or Wan Aisha. She was called for childbirths and kept busy providing the after-delivery
care.
It was then considered usual for the married women to give birth to six to ten children
for perhaps 20 years of their life. In the past, some children were lost during epidemics of
cholera. The last was in 1973.There had been no casualty then. Neonatal mortality was not
common in the 80ties. The government clinic in the village, with a house for the midwife, was
popular. At the same time, a few experienced traditional “Tok bidan” remained in demand. As
in other emerging countries, collaboration between official personnel and the local attendant
was welcomed, as each had respective tasks and were both available to assist the families:
“Although common, birth giving was an event in the village amongst relatives, especially
for a first child. Emergency transport by ferry to town and to the hospital was possible but, well
after the construction of the bridge, bringing cars to the island in 1990, the comfort of birth at
home was preferred. At seven months a “Lengang perut” small ceremony was held and the
“Tok Bidan” was booked. If, according to both midwives, the event appeared without any
problem, any of the available practitioners, -traditional “Tok Bidan” or government midwife-
was called by the husband to his home. All female relatives or neighbors would consider
A room is cleared of any furniture and a mattress is put on the floor where the parturient
would lay down while the ladies take place around, with the legs folded under them. If there is
a strong grandmother, she will take place at the head of the mattress, sitting cross legged. When
needed, her elbows on her knees, she will present her forearms for the mother to hold to while
she pushes for her child to be born. [In one case, an aunt sat behind the grandmother to offer
her arms, replacing the grandmother but not removing her, so that two generations were helping
a member of the third one to give birth to a member of the fourth generation.]
The midwife and the mother of the parturient are posted on the legs side, ready to hold the
feet. Other ladies of the family come and seat for a while offering their prayers, services,
bringing coffee to the midwife, hot sweet tea, or water to the future mother. Male relatives may
sit on the veranda “Lambur” of the house, bringing on and off the support of their banter and
A ribbon of cloth is attached below the breast at the stomach level to mark the progress of
the descent of the child inside the womb. In the past, the full expansion of a “Kembang
semangkok” fruit (Scaphium longiflorum) may serve as a timer for the duration of the delivery.
At the beginning of the parturition, a coconut-based oil “minyak selusuh” is smeared on the
skin of the stomach with a light touch of massage starting from the umbilic. Later-on, it will be
put on the labia to increase their elasticity. A sarong covers the thighs, the folded knees and the
legs of the parturient. The “Tok bidan” lifts the cloth from time to time to monitor the process.
The actual duration of the delivery was usually of about two to three hours only. Some
novices for a first child feeling the pressure early, would lay down one day in advance, while
for some other there was no time for the “Tok Bidan”, to arrive.
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Once, for such a delay, the “Tok Bidan” saw the caput, but there were not enough strong
contractions to help the head to be born, she chewed some “Sireh” leaves and spat on the stuck
head, saying prayers and chasing whatever spirit would hinder the delivery. During another
case of suspense, the grandmother of the future mother said reassuringly: “Malaikat naik turun
dari tanah ke langit khabar ada orang bersalin”. “The angels are coming up and down from the
Once the new-born baby has slipped out, its vocal cords would voice its surprise as it starts
to breathe. Once no more blood runs through it, the umbilical cord is cut with a fresh bamboo
split. The soiled cloths are removed. The baby is then washed of the vernix caseum and dried.
The remaining cord is oiled with “Kunyit” Curcuma longa (antiseptic and helps cicatrisation)
and wrapped in a piece of clean cloth. The baby is dressed in a shirt and two folded pieces
made of light cotton. An adjustable cotton girdle with four strings maintains the stomach and
supports the back of the baby. Then, traditionally, it is tightly swaddled, “Bendung”, arms and
leg straight along the body in a piece of cotton cloth. Thus, it will not feel too much change
from the crowded atmosphere of the last month in the womb. The baby is put on a small mat
with a set of cushions, a knife or scissors hidden under a pillow to scare a hungry “Langsuyir”
vampire. A mini mosquito net in the shape of a rectangular umbrella is put over it.
The midwife waits until the after birth -the “Tetuban”- is expelled. She will wash it carefully
-it is considered a “brother” of the new-born- and put it in a tin box with an iron nail, and slice
of “Asam keping” (Garcinia atroviridis) to wait for the cord on the baby to be dry and fall.
Then the father of the child will bury it and plant a tree, often a “Jambu” -Syzyphus aquaea, on
wooden slates on which a “Mengkuang” -Pandanus- mat is spread, with a number of “Kain
sarong” covering it. An iron basin is placed below with charcoal or any slow burning wood
Plant species, showers, medicinal decoctions (“Mandi serum” (or “serong”), ubat periuk)
and other practices can be witnessed after delivery. Depending on the time of the day the birth
has occurred, the mother will be left to rest and sleep for a while, or she will take a “Mandi
serum” shower. The plant composition for the shower in the island differed from the classic
“Serai”- “Pandan”- “Halba”- “Halia”- “Kunyit”- recipe. There were wild Lauracea and
Fabaceae.
“Mandi serum” is a special shower, customarily taken to clean a person from bad influences
or spirits - “Serum”- that would have clung to him or her, following exposure to foreign or
possibly dangerous experience such as a stay in the police lock-up or after giving birth. It is not
the “Mandi bunga” of the future bride, nor the “Bersiram” of the royalty.
In the past, in villages in Terengganu, such as the ones in Pulau Duyung, species for the
“Mandi serum” for after delivery were found in the “Rok” or “Semak” thickets growing around
groups of houses. The leaves were collected and boiled with water in a large pot, then, the
decoction was poured in a basin of water for the shower. [As seen in a picture in “House
“Teja”, Neolitsea zeylanica, Lauraceae, frothing and mucilaginous, a tree up to 20m tall,
found in Asia, Malaysia, Indonesia and India, Thailand, Vietnam, Oceania and Australia in
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thickets and evergreen forests. The term “Teja” is from the Sanskrit and refers to “senja” the
colors of the sky at sunset. It contains sesquiterpenes and has anti-inflammatory properties
Australia. Extract has antioxidant, antibacterial and analgesic potential properties (Kishore
Taiwan to SEA, naturalized in South Africa. Reported to have analgesic and anti-inflammatory
properties; because of its flavonoids contents has been studied for Alzheimer treatment (Yun
“Capa” (or “Telinga kerbau” and “Sembung”), Blumea balsamifera (Asteraceae) aromatic
(camphor) and emollient; (exploited for camphor in Malaysia -by Chinese- and Philippines as
“Bonglai”, Zingiber Cassumunar, the long ginger leaves are slightly aromatic; they contain
The medicinal properties were confirmed by later studies. What is felt are the immediate
rejuvenating effect, the general sense of cooling and calming as well as the purifying, cleaning
effect on the skin of the shower. (cf. Laderman in” Wives and midwives”,1986) and other
Bleeding, through lack of occlusion of the capillary vessels in the womb was one of the main
causes of perinatal death (Siti Asmah in Kedah). It was said to be caused by a woman who had
so lost her life and had become a -thirsty- vampire. This vampire was supposed to livein the trees
around a house. The name of a fern with large leaves named “Paku langsuyir” -thevampire fern
(Asplenium nidum) is a reminder of that hovering danger of losing too much bloodafter delivery.
There was one such large one conspicuous on a Mangifera indica in front of thehouse of Nek
After a massage of the whole woman’s body except the stomach and ends up by the head
as, explained Mak Cik Esah, “Dari kepala semua telah mula” “it is from the head that all
started”. This is probably because babies were usually born to this earth the head first, and a
(pandanus), and “Gurah” (Sapium indicum) are among plants that is used in postpartum
[Note on“ilmu”or back in literature review This tradition of giving birth with communal
and natural environment assistance was integral part of ancient knowledge. British
commentators and earlier writers (cf. horrified Skeat on the “roasting” of the mother (18…. )
and Siti Asmah’s compassionate views (19… ) were doubtful about many of the traditional
practices. On the contrary, in the observations recorded by Josiane Massard (20… ) and
Laderman (20…). the female anthropologists noticed how seriously the care around delivery
was taken in Terengganu. The women there are aware of the sudden athletic efforts -voluntary
and natural- that a woman’s body must make, and of the necessary help to restore the exhausted
body. The practical and emotional support from the family and other villagers is obviously part
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process].
4.2.1.3 End of The Past “Era” and The -Busy, Landscape Changing- Transition to
Between the resources available in their surrounding and their own efforts, with many plant
species for food, the salt for preservation, wood or “Minyak Gas” -kerosene for cooking, the
boats, the sails and the wind for transport, -though petrol engines existed-, Pulau Duyong had
a local ecosystem, balancing natural environment and habitants needs. Even though they used
products from elsewhere, the people of Duyong were living then in organized self-sufficiency
Electricity was brought to Pulau Duyung in the early seventies. Not all houses were
equipped. As mentioned in Chapter 1, oil had been discovered in 1973. Change came; very
slowly at first. Salt, dry fish, “Keropok”, activities of work on the island remained.
[It took more than 15 [verifiy] years after the arrival of electricity to see the first refrigerator
been carried -to the house of a reputed boat builder- in 1990 [verify and a washing machine].
However, by 2018, the old island of Duyong -its landscapes, its flora and the relationship of its
i) The Events
Figure 4.18 Pulau Duyong in the past, then in 2013 with reclaimed areas in front of Duyong
Landscape lay out and profile 1983 Landscape layout and profile 2013
A bridge to the mainland on both sides of the island and banks were the first changes in
landscape. The changes were linked with the increasing need of energy in Malaysia, identified
during the late seventies. The construction of a hydroelectric dam on the Terengganu River was
sedimentation and other changes in the estuary, banks were built around the island, except for
a length on the southern shore where boat building was active and needed open slopes to launch
the vessels.
In 1987 Dato Wan Ngah, from Pulau Duyung, was then the Director of the Jabatan Kerja
Raya Public Work Department. When the construction of a bridge over the estuary of
Terengganu River was decided, to link the capital to the new and vast airport, -renovated in
2005, to accommodate “up to 2 million passengers”. Wan Ngah supported the idea of roads
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access from the bridge down to Pulau Duyung. (Pic. Wan Moktar on the bank “Now we can go
Roads were built, around and across the island. On the inside, they replaced wooden jetties
that used to cross over the streamlets and mangrove vegetation. Concrete channels and drains
Cars entered the house compounds. At night, goats went to rest on the warm tar, to be caught
in the morning by the “Majlis Bandaran” -Town Authorities. More easily transported by lorries
than in the past, household machines were acquired. The river water, perhaps a bit more
sluggish and less clean, and the wells, lost their cleaning and washing role as well as their teams
of women users. Mobile shops on motored vans manned by male drivers replaced the paddling
ladies. Busses brought school children to Kuala Terengganu and Seberang Takir.
In 2008, the visual access to the sea for the fishermen from familiar high spots on the island
disappeared. Land reclamation such as a “Pulau Warisan” in front the Chinese Street in the
state capital and in Serang Takir on the opposite bank has obstructed the view. A fishing boats
owner added a third storey to his house to keep some view over the estuary.
Introduction: The three original Pulau Duyong Kecil, Pulau Duyong Besar and Pulau Ketam
have been united. Development on Duyong Kecil and other transformations have brought
drastic changes to the landscapes and while some floral evolution is noted.
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Modern installations and activities have been organised. After the (cf Appendix 1) of the
Figure 4.19 Development on Duyong Kecil (a drone view from the internet) View of the
Terengganu River Estuary in 2017 with, mostly in sand colour, the newly reclaimed land
and the built areas of the tourism development efforts on the eastern extremity of Pulau
Duyong
glamour, and tourism. Buildings have been installed, as seen on the front part of the here
seen picture (Fig above…..). Their roofs appear grey-white: appartments, shops, a ship repair
However, today (2019) the former vast modern “Marina” building now houses only a few
offices including the one of the Terengganu Tourism office and a café with a sweeping night
view on the new estuary. Offshore oil rigs vessels use the mooring of the modern wharf -
formerly meant for luxurious cruisers- to bring back and forth workers who will drive their cars
parked nearby back to their rented house (2018). A couple of leisure boats are anchored there,
while three more are moored at an independent marina opened by a local entrepreneur further
up in Duyong Besar.
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Presently, on the reclaimed sand area of Duyung Kecil, are tar roads lined with Meliacea
azadirachta, assorted with gated concrete buildings, for electricity, high water tanks, vast
toilets. Rows of four and five storeys flats with children playgrounds have been built on the
former arm of the river between the islands and the long jetty between Duyung Kecil and
Duyung Besar (pic. Gallery) where, in the past, retired sailing vessels and Vietnamese refugees’
In Duyong Besar, nowadays (2019), timber houses on stilts of traditional proportions are
not the rule anymore. Cheaper and smaller wooden houses are found in two areas, behind the
school in Duyong Besar, and, close by the concrete row of restaurants, sundry shops and
galleries built on the riverside. In the rest of the islands, the houses built recently are large brick
villas with arches and columns, often adorned with wood carvings, or smaller individual
concrete buildings or even, as in Pulau Ketam, a row of terrace houses “Taman Warisan”.
(a)
(b)
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(c)
Figure 4.21 d) -Projects: a concrete house around old house - A madrasah built amongst
Details on the two large government projects aimed at attracting investment in and around
the estuary of the Terengganu River are given in Appendix B. 2 to this part of Chapter 4: the
“Monsoon Cup” and, the more recent “KT City Centre”, in Appendix 3:
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There is today still a “forest” of “Cengal” trees above the cemeteries. A mass blooming
occurred in November 2014 (check). For about two weeks, the ground around the “Cengal”
stands was covered with a yellowish white carpet of small flowers. Since the event, that usually
happened every two to four years, blooming has not been witnessed. Just recently (March 2021)
a few “Cengal” trees bloomed. Mass blooming after a lack of it in a species sometimes means
that the species or the trees are in danger, because of a -new- lack of suitability of the
environment.
Figure 4.22, a) Cengal Cemetery. b) After a recent blooming of one cengal tree in the
cemetery: after 7 years, in 2021 the last fruiting? pic. Mohamad Sufian)
The building of banks and concrete channels capturing the former streams had resulted in less
water and nutrients available for the roots of the trees - a necessity for Hopea odorata “Cengal”
trees -, than previously. A concrete wall follows a road along the main cemetery: the trees most
nearby seem to be the ones suffer the most. In Pulau Ketam, five “Cengal” trees have been fell,
to provide light and for safety (“Cerah sikit, serum”) to a house compound nearby.
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Near the bridge, a “Cengal” tree has fallen on cars gathered near a mechanic workshop.
On their part, the coconut trees are victim of rhinoceros beetles (Pic.) and of abandon. Old
Coconut falls are heard of and witnessed. One coconut fell on the library. Few inhabitants use
nearby plucked coconut to cook -even though they own some trees. Ready-made imported
“Santan” -coconut milk- is available at the grocery shops set near the bridge. Coconut trees are
not replanted. A few new coconut trees are left to grow. These do not bear the traces of “steps”
carved by the climbers. No working monkeys has been seen since long. The brave youths who
still know how to climb are called “spidermen” (Fig. a coconut tree trunk in the present times: No visible
“Nipah”, removed from the central mangrove and stream has re-appeared beyond the banks
in places on the Northern side of the island as well as on the former sand beaches of the South.
Hardy species still thrive: “Bebaru” Hibiscus tilliaefolia, “Ketapang” Terminalia catapa,
“Bebuas” Premna foetida, “Mengkudu” Morindas, Wedelia and other small Asteraceae
maintain their presence. Some “Tembusu”, “Bongor”, “Kekabu” and old mango trees have
been cut.
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As seen in Appendix 1, the plant species previously found on the “The paths of knowledge”
-(Words from Tuck-Poh Lye 2004, on the Orang Asli ways of learning) in the “forest”- of the
island, or the “Belukar” between houses, have almost disappeared. In the past, an elder lady
would recommend to her grand-children the edible herbs “Bayam Peraksi”, “Batang
kemoyang”, “Pegaga” and the young leaves of the “Jambu golok” (Anacardium occidentale)
or of the “serai kayu” (Syzygium polyanthum), and the children would as well pick up a fruit of
The cemeteries do not carry the same quantity of useful wild herbs. On the other hand,
ornamental species, Yasmin, Wrightia, Cambodia, are well taken care off and bloom on fences
or in the cemetery. Near the stairs of houses, Renellia speciosa, Bougainvilliers, Ixoras and
Clerodendrons, together with “Ulam raja” and the more therapeutic Ocinum sanctum, a few
“Hempedu bumi” -Andrographis paniculata, and “Misai kucing” -Ortosiphon stamineus, are
grown in pots.
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Figure. 4.23 new ways: a) Evening jogging (2020) before sun set, between a modern house
and a nursery of ornamental plants for sale in Pulau Ketam. b) Ornamental trend confirmed:
Podraena ricasoliana on a front yard fence in Pulau Duyong,
Figure 4.24 Pic. Sun set on the medicinal lalang, Imperata cylyndrica, a weed, and the”
rumah pangsapuri rakyat”.
A minute medicinal garden has been observed near the four-storeys apartments in Duyong
Kecil. The watering is automatic. Have been noted: Limau kiah, Atalantia buxifolia and
The four practitioners mentioned at the beginning of this chapter have passed-away and
have not been replaced. Since the death of Wan Esah, there are no more traditional Tok Bidan.
A first child is welcomed at the hospital. Mothers and grandmothers will give their assistance
for the following births. A young woman from Seberang -facing Pulau Duyong, gives her
visiting card, proposing her services as “’confinement lady” just as her (Chinese, Indian and
The new “Guru silat” is a young sportsman who has organized contests and training in
Pulau Ketam while older “specialists” have not had the opportunity nor the time to transmit
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their knowledge. The many modern doctors in town are used. The hospital is at 15 minutes by
car from Pulau Duyong and is resorted to. The clinic in Pulau Duyong provides modern health
care advice.
It can be noted as well, that, in line with “Ilmu”and religious activities historically
associated with Pulau Duyong, a land owner from Pulau Ketam has presently decided to have
a two storey modern “Madrasah” -religious college- be built in the former “Duku” orchard of
his family.
vi) Preliminary Results and Conclusion for this site of the “Coastal areas”
Centuries old island landscape is replaced, especially on the eastern side towards the estuary
Mangrove chased by drains returns on the unbanked area, even around some of the island
embankments.
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-Out of @ 200 recorded species,18 had disappeared, (in 2014) of which 11 had a medicinal
use: “Getang”, “Letup letup”, “Tapak Suleiman”, “Lada pahit”, “Mata ayam”, “kawa”,
in 2017, updated in 2019, is further presented in appendix: From 34 that have disappeared, 19
of these had a medicinal use, 9 had been used as food, and 5 were ornamental. In 2021 the
Village landscape tree species have disappeared: “Macang, “Dedap”, “Kekabu”, “Rengas”,
“Setor”, “Bongor” and old “Duku” and have not been replanted. Some like the sea hibiscus
“Bebaru” have become invasive. Aging trees (coconut, “Nangka”, “Nibong”, “Pinang”) have
The names of the species are still known, medicinal knowledge on them has decreased, yet
survives, but plants are not frequently used. Introduction of new medicinal species such as
“Ginseng Melayu”, “Jarum tujuh”, “Makhota dewa” indicates sustained interest. Ornamental
With the new proximity to urban area through the Sultan Mahmud bridge and tar roads, land
is seen as space measured in feet or square meters. Land prices increase. Conservation of
checklist of the plant species seen in Pulau Duyong in the past (1983-2007) and of their fate in
abundance as well as brief mentions of their use medicinal, food, decorative or utilitarian.
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Although based only on encounters of the species along the paths or around some house
compounds, and not on a full systematic inventory on selected plots, the “not found again in
the same location” numbers still reveal some oblivion of the medicinal or edible “weeds” as
well as some lack of attachment for trees that were companions of the elder generations. More
recently (2021), 38 species have not been found where they used to be; of which 24 had
medicinal uses.
A few new medicinal plants, (“Ginseng Melayu” Talinum paniculatum, “Jarum tujuh”
Pereskia bleo) as well as ornamental species around houses and a nursery in Pulau Ketam have
been seen, indicating however a sustained interest in plants; albeit with a trend towards
ornamental species.
Two other Appendices in Appendices B, on the ECRD projects (East Coast Region
Economic Development) illustrate exogenous development efforts that had -or will have, if
realized- a strong impact on the landscape -thus on the land itself and on the plants and the
The Coastal areas South of Kuala Terengganu are dubbed here “Survivors” because it is a
suitable name for the people and the vegetation found there, growing on oligotrophic soil, and
as well as for the inhabitants. These, prior to the advent of tourism as a source of revenue,
aquaculture and plantations settlements, lived by the sea shore, from fishing at sea and in the
mangrove, from honey collection and sale of handicraft products from local vegetation such as
weaving mats and bags from Kerecut (Lepironia articulata) and pandanus.
In the eighties, the stretch of 120 km straight road from Marang to Dungun with little traffic,
had become at night a well-known “speed track” area. In daytime, it was also a picturesque trip
along the road. There were one side, lagoons with floating Bruguiera reflected in the water,
and on the other side, forest of gelam trees with their pale orange pealing bark. There was also
the “open prison” in Marang, and a camp of “Boat people” where refugees from Cambodia and
Vietnam had been gathered earlier. Towards the land, inside -amongst or behind forested small
hills- LDS- Land Development Schemes-, FELDA settlers cultivated rubber and palm oil. The
charm of the “lagoons” spreading parallel to the beach, had attracted a few implantations of
chalets and the construction of tourism projects (from Tanjung Jara and Rantau Abang Center
The particular character of this coast is its landscape line of dunes parallel to the seashore,
separated from it by slow moving streams or elongated large pounds -at times creating mirrored
landscapes- before one reaches the actual view of the sea with its permanently changing views
and colours.
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Figure 4.26. a) Map of Terengganu with the visited areas in the triangle. b) Map of the coast
showing the line of water bodies along the seashore and LDS -in green are set around part of
the Jambu Bongkok Reserve [Fig. a) From the top: Map of the coastal road, the various
water bodies BRIS, from KT to Dungun
The seaside coastal morphology and the unusual landscapes have been shaped by a glacial
melt over more than 10 000 years after the Last Glacial Period (@21500 year ago). As
mentioned earlier, the coastal area is an example of the remains of the Sunda continental shelf
that used to spread from the Malay Peninsula to Borneo during the Last Glacial Period. The
climate warmed up and the water from the ocean flooded the lands, by stages, sometimes
reaching up to the eastern range of the granitic mountains of the Malay Peninsula where marine
shells have been found. (Tomascik et al., 1996) The sea went up and receded a few times,
leaving landscapes of water bodies and low hills or dunes parallel to the shore. Then, strong
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waves and monsoon winds coming from the north East added the formation of eolian and tidal
Quite a few kampongs along the East Coast are called “Mengabang”: Mengabang Telipot
accumulated on the bank of a water body -often a small river-, that runs along the sea. They
Geologists have called these landforms “BRIS or “beaches ridges interspersed with swales”.
[The words describe the whole coastal set: the beaches, the dunes, and the internal waters.
The tourism industry simplifies and call them “lagoon”, a term referring to freshwater bodies
surrounded by sandy banks in an ocean. In the “Kuala Ibai Lagoon”, on the outskirt of Kuala
Terengganu, a tributary of the Ibai river made of large ponds flows for a while, under the
rows of Casuarina that grow on the riverside dunes along the beach, before reaching the sea.
Since 2010, Large buildings – a cultural center, a large hotel and an equestrian center have
been placed over the long sand monticule bordering the water, in places obscuring part of the
Other contributors to the shaping and reshaping of the seashore on the east coasts
are not only the wind -It can blow as much as 5 m/s during the North East monsoon- but also
the waves [Cf later in C 5, Pantai Kekabu and Batu Buruk now for wind surfing: some change
in people/ nature relationship]. All these elements not only have had an impact on the lines of
the coasts, but also the soils deposits, the “horizons” of successive strata, below the topsoil and
[ Just as the coastal morphology, the vegetation is influenced by the original landforms, by
the waves, the winds, the hydrology, and the level of soil nutrients. [These factors have
contributed to shape the folds –or ridges-of the shores along the Kuala Terengganu toKemaman
. Three layers of have been distinguished in different beach ridges according to the origin of
their formation within the tidal amplitudes along time. 1 Subtidal deposits, 2 Wave built
In 1980ties, a line of white and yellow beaches of sand ran almost uninterrupted for more
than 150 km from Kuala Ibai to the small town of Dungun. There were rows of pokok rhu, -
cylinfrica floating on lagoons, bordering the China Sea. Since 2005, teams of researchers at
UMT (Jamilah et al.2011) have studied in Jambu Bongkok Forest Reserve the physical
structure, and main features of these forms of land. They stressed the conditions of the Bris soil
that create an original ecosystem where people, flora and fauna have found ways to live with
each other, in apparently infertile surroundings, as well as the services these structures provide:
Three types of vegetations had been observed on the lowland coastal forests, on the water
bodies (swamps and streamlets), and on the sand dunes and beaches, stretching toward the
South, from Kuala Terengganu over to Marang, Merchang, Jambu Bongkok and Dungun:
Towards the interior, particularly in the Jambu Bongkok Forest Reserve, are lowland forests
of Dipterocarps -Shorea materialis, Shorea leprosula, Hopea odorata Cengal pasir, mixed with
Second is the vegetation in the seasonal swamp areas where the water is often black and
acid. It includes the Leguminosae Acacia Mangium and Acacia auriculiformis, and often pure
stands of the Myrtaceae Melaleuca cajuputi. These are in places associated with Lepironia
articulata, the Kercut sedge that is used for weaving mats, bags, and, until 1987 (last big cargo
boats trip to Ban Laern), for the sails of large trading vessels.
The third type, the heath vegetation -the name given to stunted vegetation occurring on poor
soils, was found on the stretches of beach that runs parallel to the road between Marang and
Dungun. Small in size, often below 1 or 3 meters height, the heath flora is nevertheless pretty
and medicinal: there are the Kemunting -Rhodomyrtus tomentosa, with its long stamens and
pink flowers, the climbing Ficus deltoidea -Mas secotet, whose name refers to its signature
“cote,” -a dot at the fork of the nervures on the leaves. Often, around a taller species, such as
the various Kelat and Jambu laut Sizygium, grow plants seeking nutrients or protection from
the sun; they group for survival in clumps such as the Hoya coronaria -Setebal , or, as the
Nepenthes- Periuk kera, and Drosera and resort to ensnare and digest insects in their leaves
transformed in traps. Other species produce secondary defensive metabolites that attract the
interest of phyto-pharmacists. Invasive species thrive on the back of sand dunes such as the
Timban tahi duri (Catunaregam tomentosa), and on the beach slopes like the medicinal Lamuni
(Vitex rotundifolia).
Figure 4.27 Pic of Melaleuca cajuputi, pinkish bark and flower spindles
On the swampy margins of the beaches and dunes of the low land forest, grow, -often in
appearance because of its unusual bark and the numerous flossy spikes of its white flowers, the
fire resisting (regrowth is fast) 20m high Myrtaceae can creates an out of this world landscape
on the banks of the sleepy lagoons of the East coast. Growing well in waterlogged areas, (gelam
refers to “tengelam” -inundated in Malay-) has a cream bark with rusty streaks that can peel
off like of multi-layered paper. Its colour reveals tannin content. The bark expands when
immerged in water -a useful propriety when caulking boats while the tannin repels wood
worms. The dark greyish green lanceolate leaves have parallel nerves. They exude a fragrance
akin to camphor with an acid and spicy note. Oil distilled from the gelam leaves contains
terpenes. Aromatic and medicinal, it is used to treat colds and headaches; it is antibacterial anti-
inflammatory (Nazeh et al. 2015) and insecticide. The wood is used for construction in watery
Another plant species from the coastal areas is the less visible Albizia myriophylla or Tebu
gajah. It is a climber or -rarely- a shrub and a tree, that mixes with other plants in disturbed
areas near rivers, and forest edges. It occurs from the Himalayas, India, through Burma
(Myanmar), Indochina (Cambodia, Laos and southern Vietnam) and Thailand, to northern
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Peninsular Malaysia. The woody liana has the finely pinnate leaves, hooked spines, and flat
beans of the Mimosaceae family. Known by herbalists and majun makers who use it, when
available, to sweeten the taste of their concoctions. It was one of the preferred wooden chips
of ”Mat Kapur”, the reputed herb seller in Kuala Terengganu. He would introduce it to some
selected onlookers for them to taste and pick their interest. It is not easy to collect as it is often
ferociously guarded by ants. “Pak Da” of Padang Air, a traditional practitioner near Kuala
Terengganu, had planted one it in front of his house. He mentioned, like some of his colleagues,
[Fig. Pic of Albizia myriophylla, from my drawing or photo from Padang Air or both.]
saponins, albiziasaponins A−E (1−5), were isolated from the stems of Albizia
myriophylla collected in Thailand and it was found to show a potent sweetness intensity (600
times stronger) relative to sucrose (Yoshikawa and al. 2002). Surprisingly, the sweet wood
bark has a hypo-glycemic effect that was found on diabetes induced rats (Tunsaringkarn et
ales, 2008). It was as well found active on Streptoccocus mutans, an effect related to the
lupinofolin contents and would justify the traditional use against throat infection (Azmah Saat
et ales, 2013).
A third notable plant species is frequent on the beaches of the East Coast, but particularly in
the area of Jambu Bonkok, where Mat Kapur would collect it to include the leaves in his
postpartum teas. It is the pretty, weedy, fragrant Vitex rotundifolia. Because of its medicinal
activity, the “invasive” (-in the USA-) “beach Vitex” deserves a mention as an interesting
species. It was seen spreading on the sand of the beaches in a few places in Terengganu, from
Besut to Dungun. It belongs to the Verbenacea -now Lamiaceae-, a family reputed for being -
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such as the Arabian lilac- beneficial in women ailments, from endometriosis to disrupted
lactation and breast pain. The one found in Terengganu, called lamuni (from sanscrit
jalanirgundi) by Mat Kapur, appears as a small shrub or a creeper with rounded and small
leaves, pale green on the top and velvety grey below. Its flowers are blue purple. It has tenacious
stems that spread on unstable sand, in a saline and hot environment, exposed to strong winds,
down until the sea waves. Its range is from Japan, Korea to the Pacific Islands and the USA
habitat. Burkill (1966) refers to it as a variety of Vitex trifoliata. It is propagated by the fruitthat
As early as 1998, it was found that Vitexicarpin, a flavonoid from the fruit of Vitex
rotundifolia (You and al., 1998, Zang 2013), inhibited mouse lymphocyte proliferation as well
as growth of cell lines in vitro. The medicinal part in Terengganu was mostly the leaves that
In the early eighties, spreading an array of mysterious roots and leaves packed in large sacks
on the pavement near the Bus Station in Kuala Terengganu, a “bomoh”, -actually more an
entrepreneur with a considerable knowledge in traditional plants, could be met and even
engaged in conversation about the properties of the plants he sold. This researcher had many
times the opportunity to converse with him, in town and by his house in Jambu Bongkok.
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The village of Jambu Bongkok, where lived Mohamed Yusof habited, then (in 1983) in his
thirties, is at about 150 km from the capital. Known as “Mat Sakai” “or “Mat Pangan”, probably
because of a close -professional or perhaps familial- relationship with some orang asli -
indigenous peoples. “Sakai”and Pangan” are often pejorative names for aborigines, so he
preferred his other surname of “Mat Kapur”, “-kapur,” referring to one of his former jobs in
“In 1983, Mat Kapur had accepted to lead me and the -then on a visit in Malaysia- directors
of SREP French laboratory for whom I was doing research on medicinal species-, on his “field”.
We followed a trail from behind his house in Jambu Bongkok and arrived at a low landforest
fringe. The sand was greyish white. The trees were slim for a tropical forest, but tall. Hishouse,
close by the coastal road was in timber, on short stilts, with painted horizontal plankingand a
large veranda, typical of the 60ties rural style of the region. But the place to meet him was in
Back then, Mat Kapur had a well-established spot in Jalan Paya Bunga, in Kuala
Terengganu, near the Bus Station. About twenty 3’ x 2’ kercut sacks full of a stock of roots
were laid on the pavement, slightly open on the top to give a glimpse of the contents. They
were as well bottles of medicinal oils including Minyak kapur -Dryobalanocarpus camphora-
and small transparent plastic bags full of dry leaves and chips of wood. Customers, men and
women of all ages, and spectators, gathered, listening to Mat Kapur’s short speeches. Trade
was brisk. I bought two packets of ubat periuk (medicine to be prepared in a cooking pot):
350gr of sliced roots and leaves, one for after delivery and another, a tonic for men. Back in
my home office, I began a first identification of the contents by comparing with species and
information from other ubat periuk similarly sold by four other herbs sellers or healers at the
market and other places in Kuala Terengganu, using as well the literature, Burkill and Hsuan
I found that Mat Kapur had some idiosyncratic preferences concerning plant names. His
knowledge being vast, particularly in the quantity of species he knew de visu, he could afford
to use his own understanding. Sometimes -at first, he misdirected me, for fun and- to hide his
French phyto-chemist Dr. Daniel Jean had noticed that herbalists and traditional healers had
often one or two preferred species that could have particularly interesting properties. I followed
that clue.
Among those that Mat Kapur seemed to prize the most were two species of herbs and roots
that could not be readily identified: One were leaves of what he called Timba tasek .They were
present in good quantity in the post-partum ubat periuk. These leaves were 2-3 cm long,
lanceolate with parallel nerves and had no particular characteristics in smell or taste, difering
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in this from the similar looking myrtle fragrant cucur atap or coreng atap Baeckia suffructicosa
or the other Lepstospermun flavescens (cina maki). Botanist Lynwood Hume and I found that
Mat Kapur gave to Styphelia malayana or Leucopogon malayanus (Ericaceae) the name of
timba tasek -usually reserved for to Clerodendron serratum. The Styphelia seems to have been
an innocuous and convenient substitute for the Myrtaceae Baeckia fructescens, Leptospermum
flavescens or even Melaleuca alternatifolia known today as commercial “tea tree” (sources
mostly from New Zealand and Australia). That was probably because the innocuous Ericaceae
was more frequent in Jambu Bongkok than the Baeckia or the Leptospermum which are found
The second preferred species of Mat Kapur -the “pelaran” according to him-, came in the
form of yellowish white woody chips sweet to the taste. Seeing the chips, Habeeb, then a majun
and spices seller of Arab descent at the main market, suggested “Tebu gajah”. Burkill recorded
such a name for Albizia myriophylla, but without mentioning the effect on taste.
Mat Kapur led the laboratory phyto-pharmacists and I in the forest behind his house,
jumping on thick lianas, showing us Mas secotet (Ficus deltoidea), daun Pakan (Vitis
cinnamomea) -specific for women, “because of its red orange colour”, and two topical “male
organ enhancers” Setebal (Hoya diversifolia), and lintah leeches which he sold in the form of
a creamy decoction.
Mat Kapur had our two guests try the wood and bark of “pelaran”, saying that it changed
the taste of things. It was used as well by the orang asli to put it under the tongue “to drink
beer without being drunk” when negotiating with Chinese buyers of rattan: Sweet became
bland; lime juice became sweet, salt tasteless. Mat Kapur explained that the “pelaran” could
be used to help cure tobacco addiction as the cigarettes somehow lost their anticipated “kick”
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effect. Both doctors were baffled, thinking that perhaps there was a neurological action that
altered their perception. Later in Paris, as the effect was tried again and, because it lasts for at
least two hours, some of the guests who tried were afraid of having lost their sense of taste!
In fact, it was only that the taste buds are saturated by the sweetness of the wood of this
thick liana and cannot register anything else for up to two hours after having sensed it. The
sweetness is 600 times more intense than that of sucrose as was reported. Intensively sweet
The French Lab did not pursue research on Albizia myriophylla because of the too complex
protein it may contain that would involve expensive, and time-consuming, research. They
referred to Curculigo (synonym Molineria) latifolia, -lembah nyor- another taste modifier from
Malaysia. Later, Albizia Myriophylla would be studied as buccal antibiotic in Thailand with
positive results (2010); and its use in alcohol preparation in Chotal tribe in Nepal 2012 was
were discovered Modern science here confirms (extreme sweetness) or follows (throat
Another species was often found in Mat Kapur’s ubat periuk for women was “lamuni” or
lengundi, (Sanscrit: Jalanirgundi) Vitex rotundifolia, growing on the beaches. This small
creeper has spikes of lavender flowers typical of the Verbenaceae (now Lamiaceae), aromatic
1 to 4 cm long rounded leaves, greyish green above and pubescent below. It is distributed on
the coasts in sub-tropical Asia and Pacific countries. Like Vitex agnus-castus, it is traditionally
used as a medicine for female ailments and as insecticide. The roots of Vitex rotundifolia are
traditionally reputed to prevent pregnancy, for dysmenorrhea, to help healing after delivery.
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After a few years, Mat Kapur gained fame and his market increased. He sold plants to a
traditional medicine trader in Johore, and to universities for research and creation of medicinal
gardens (USM Penang). He bought a lorry. He engaged village helpers to collect, cut roots, dry
leaves, and package them. A forest reserve being planned behind his house, Mat Kapur hoped
that he would be trusted to exploit and preserve the place. The French lab director wrote for
His house and business in Jambu Bongkok would be signaled by a large board on the
roadside “Mohamad Yusof Bomoh Melayu” (1990). He gave me –verbally- a list 120 spp. of
During the following years I could receive information about him and the history of his
training, from people in town: He had an accident with his lorry but was unarmed. His son then
would drive him as he was subject to bouts of epilepsy. He still had two wives and it was
confirmed that he did marry a few ladies including an orang asli from Pahang- usually older
than him. According to one informant, (Daud Mohamed who knew Syed Rashidi, Mat Kapur’s
mentor), after the closure of the iron mines in Dungun, as a young man, he tried to work in the
forest; he had to stop because of illness. So, Syed Rashidi who knew him from the mines, taught
him how to prepare small bundles of samples of various medicinal plants to place his order to
the orang asli he knew. Syed Rashidi, on his side, was knowledgeable in medicinal species (cf.
Letter from the Malaysian National Museum). Those bundles were actual “order lists” between
people would did not use the written word or may speak a different language.
[One other interesting part is that Syed Rashidi (“Bung” Rashidi) was originally from
Cirebon in Java. Where did his knowledge come from?] On the other hand, it was said as well
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that the orang asli of Pahang conveyed much of their knowledge to Mat Kapur. Lists of spp.
Mat Kapur was not a therapeutic practitioner. His palette was variable yet…his indications
for his species reflected the medical image of the inhabitants. He had been listing the illnesses
the most known or afflicting the population or mostdiagnosed for which the people searched
some frequent ailments, Usually a diagnosis given to a patient by a learned relative or a village
practitioner, Mat Kapur provided the medicine only. Yet, if pressed to do so, he would identify
the causes of the ailment from a symptomatic description and prescribe a famous specific
Composition the medicine: Recipes vary in complexity. A main substance aims at the target,
another one corrector/ balances the first, another is a vehicle for the whole. Add a few with the
same indication to reinforce the effect. For postpartum recovery there were at least ten spp.
(see indications in the list in appendix) which are well known by villagers.
→ appendice 2)
This part on the “present times” re-visits deals first with the aspects of landscapes and plant
life observed along the years 2013- 2019, during a series of trips to the coasts South of Kuala
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Terengganu, first to Jambu Bongkok, on the tracks of Mat Kapur. Later, other visits were made
with the State Director of the Department of the Environment, along the coast, and further with
Frantz Limier, a French botanist from La Reunion (in the Indian Ocean). Inventories of the
encountered plant species are given in appendix. [These re-visits confirm the singular character
of this area: The balance as well as the fragility of its specific ecosystem.]
i) Among the first re-visits: Mat Kapur’s son: New life, ancient knowledge
2013 With Zamri, son of Mat Kapur, and a student from the University Malaysia
Terengganu UMT]
In 2013, the road along the coast of the state of Terengganu that allowed communication
between the villages scattered along the coast was enlarged to facilitate traffic in two directions,
a better link from Kuantan to Kuala Terengganu and easier access to for tourism, holyday
chalets, sea trips to the islands and other activities . In Jambu Bongkok, some houses previously
close to the road had to be moved, including the one where I used to meet Mat Kapur. However,
after inquiries, one of his sons, Zamri, welcomed this researcher and UMT student in his new
residence, about 2 km inland. The newly cleared area comprised land lots of good size, where
a few bricks and concrete two-storey bungalows, car porches and gardens have been built in
various designs.
Mat Kapur had talked to his son about the orang puteh woman with whom he had
collaborated in the past, and Zamri -now in his thirties-, who worked offshore with an oil
company, was happy to be free just at that time, to guide us. He told that his father had passed-
away at around 60 years-old, rather suddenly, six years ago, from a cancer of the liver (barah
hati).
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Leaving Zamri’s spacious house, we drove around, passing by Land Development Schemes
housing and planted areas (LDS), towards the hills, where some forested patches remained.
Because of the road construction and associated infrastructures, inhabitants who had lost their
land had been offered facilities to buy a place in the settlement around Jambu Bongkok.
Walking at the back of the new settlement in the remains of lowland forest at the bottom of
a small hill, it was right away possible to spot a shrub of spiny Luvanda ascendens (selusuh
ayam), and further, on the side of a winding path with fallen leaves, a small tree of tongkat Ali
that Zamri called tunjang bumi, referring to its straight and deep root, was found close to a
Polyalthia bullata with dark leaves and stem that -following his father- he named tongkat Ali
hitam. A few steps away was another dark medicinal Annonaceae, the gajah beranak -
midwives as it has abortive properties (Wiart 2006). Present there were also the Primulaceae
mata pelanduk -Ardisia crenata, with their red fruit, looking like the eye of a mouse deer, and
beras puteh -Chasalia chartacea with her bluish black fruit. Zamri signaled a red leaved jejuang
-Cordyline, and the quite common, albeit therapeutic and fragrant, bebuas -Premna foetida.
Back towards a swampy area nearer to the coast, in a grove of slim orange and grey trees,
Zamri showed the gelam tikus -Syzygium inophylla- that has small white fruit and edible young
leaves and the iconic species of the coast gelam paya -Melaleuca cajuputi- provider of multiple
services, on which grew a Ficus deltoidei -the traditional tonic mas secotet with its
characteristic “dot”. Pretty shrubs of Ixora and Rhodomyrthus brought the colours of their
flowers to the landscape and trees like the gemia -Bouea species the promises of their fruit.
Timba tasek named by Zamri was the innocuous Epacridacea Stiphelia. A few Cinnamomum
small trees -medang teja lawang and teja jantan, were noticed.
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On the beaches, were bushes of Catunaregam (the former Randia) spinosa with their white
flowers, straight tough spines and multiple medicinal properties -mentionned mostly by Mat
Kapur as “badan” as a specific of dermatitis- and the miniature looking pandan, Parameria
barbata or serapat, used as a tissues tightener after delivery. Vitex rotundifolia was spreading
its spikes of blue violet flowers over the sand towards the edge of the waves. Zamri and I
Altogether, in about two hours of a short survey, more than thirty species of medicinal
species had been found and identified. The son of Mat Kapur remembered fondly his father’s
knowledge, but he did not feel that he would be able to continue the business nor the legacy of
“Mohamad Yusof Bomoh Melayu”. The list of the plants found during this short visit is given
in appendix.
The coasts in the state are not only sandy beaches and mangroves but also, harbors have
been established by the estuaries of the rivers such as Marang, Machang and Dungun rivers,
where fish can be delivered and boats can moor later in the quiet waters behind the coastal
dunes.
In the present times, the formerly rather empty road is now bordered in the vicinity of the
small harbour towns with rows of mechanics, laundry and pet shops, catering for travelers as
Figure 4.29 in Seberang Marang, a classic picture (from an internet blog on “Interesting
places in Terengganu”, 2013): lagoon with boats and houses on the dune (“mengabang”). The
sea is behind the coconut trees.
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Figure 4.30 Draft Sketches before and after: Fig. Relief transect sketch with development
efforts (draft: alter proportions, text characters etc., note: “fields” of solar electricity Station)
-Ecosystem
Already, back in 2007, a team of researchers from the UMT had made a study of the
ecosystem of the coastal landscapes of Terengganu and had given an inventory of the floristic,
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fauna and halieutic assets as well as the services provided by these areas: -carbon trapping,
fishes and other food sources as well as protection from the sea surges. Over the years, they
had found that the resilience or the capacity of the Terengganu coastal landscape in maintaining
its ecosystem services in the near future might have been compromised. (Jamilah et ales. 2011).
New visits were made by this researcher as well in 2017 and 2018, together with colleagues
iii) Jambu Bongkok and Rantau Abang: Revisits two names with a fading
fame
Objective: Conduct a brief reconnaissance along 65 km the coast of Terengganu, from Kuala
ecosystems identified in this area of the Northern East coast of Malaysia and check on the
condition of these environments : [ the BRIS –“Beaches Ridges Interspersed with Swales”
remnants of ancient moves of the shores completed by the activities of the weather and ocean,
. Two main landscapes were to be observed: the sand dunes or the mengabang on banks of
lagoons running parallel to the coast, and the lowland swamp forest.
An Interesting aspect of these landscapes is that the soil there is acidic and poor in nutrients.
The plants resort to ingenious means to trap food like “pitchers” for the Nepenthes spp., wrap
themselves in tannin rich bark like the Melaleuca, or keep a low profile such as the shrub
kemunting (Rhodomyrtus tomentosa), the creeping lagundi (Vitex rotundifolia), while their
associate mas secotet ( Ficus deltoidea) climbs on other trees to get the light it needs. For phyto-
chemists, these creative features may herald promising molecules or secondary metabolites.
[In the air: other species: Nepenthes gracilis Periuk kera: pic flower]
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-Waste on beaches: As we took the coastal road from Kuala Terengganu to Marang, on the
left side, a row of shops, houses, and sometimes chalets built in timber and concrete, allowed
glimpses of waves rolling on the beach. A black smoke prompted us to stop: Polystyrene was
burning, spilling black liquid on the sand. We threw sand over it.
Figure 4.31 Polystyrene from white foam to Figure 4.32 Spinifex litoreus balls with
black spill spikes
We were in Pulau Kekabu,- the kapok island- some hundred meters on the northern bank of
the Marang River, before the estuary. It faces Pulau Kapas –the cotton island. This “pulau” is
an island made of a strand of land located between a body of water and the sea; it is a
A large path ran along the seaside tropical vegetation with a view of the monsoon surf in
the background. The two parts of a type of landscape characteristic of the Malaysian east coast
could be observed: the coastal sand dune and pond/stream running parallel to the shore.
[(“mengabang merujuk kepada kawasan di mana letaknya tanah di antara sungai dan laut yang mengalir
selari antara satu sama lain. Kawasan ini merujuk kepada hilir sungai di mana sungai berkenaan mengalir selari
One part - the dune, was a stretch of sand road bordered by a row of pokok rhu (Casuarina
equisetifolia) with needle-shaped leaves that resist wind and salt, bushes of ambong ambong
(scaveola taccada) with succulent leaves and petite half flowers, rolling balls of the sharp tipped
herb rumput bebalin (Spinifex littoreus), tapak kuda laut (Canavalia littoralis) and the similarly
named the blue-flowered tapak kuda (Ipomea pes-capra). Classic of the seaside were also the
medicinal yellow serunai laut (Wedelia biflora ) and a lengundi, a pretty, strong- smelling,
mauve-flowered Verbenaceae that Mat Kapur recommended for after delivery. (Actually, the
soft gray leaves of this Vitex rotundifolia are common on other beaches of the world and are
On the other side of the path, was the second view representative of the landscape, the
“lagoon”, a body of water or an inland stream that run parallel to the coast, an attractive feature
of these shores of the China Sea. The low branching of the bakau -Bruguiera- a mangrove
species, were surrounded by their pneumatophore aerial roots, a device to gather oxygen in the
Figure 4.36 Another dune and waterbody landscape, near the estuary of the Merchang
River.
Bridges cross the water towards the dune that leads to the beach itself. Mengabang dunes
and depressions are natural berths for fishing boats, away from the ocean waves. The dunes of
BRIS soil formation, like the water filled swales, run parallel to the sea are often quite large
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and houses are built over these, creating picturesque village landscapes as in Seberang Marang
or in Pulau Kekabu.
After passing by sign boards inviting to the “King of Madu” and the “Turtle Sanctuary”
information center, at about km from the town of Marang, on the right side of the road, we
arrived at the entrance of the Jambu Bongkok swamp forest. Classified as a HVFR (High Value
Forest Reserve), it was formerly open to the public, creating an added tourism attraction to the
neighbouring Rantau Abang turtle landing beach. It is now closed as a recreation forest because
Figure 4.37: The Melaleuca standing in the Figure 4.38: Lowland forest trees Their
water diameter is rarely over 50 cm
The road went through a stand of lowland forest trees, passed by a fairy-tale swamp
landscape with dramatic gesturing of lianas and aerial roots, gelam (Melaleuca cajuputi) trees
mirrored in the black water, followed by derelict looking boardwalks and gazebos. Leaving -
for the time being, the ornamental fishes and dragonflies that live there, we followed a trail on
firm ground.
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Figure 4.39 Hutan Lipur Rantau Abang”. Broken timber jetties over the biodiversity of
the swamp
It was still early in the season to see many flowers or even less fruit –except a tough
Anarcadiaceae perhaps from last year season-. We recognized Ardisia crenata , Ixora coccinea,
Chassalia chartacea, and the black grapes of the fruit of a gunciak (Antidesma ghaesembila .
Growing amongst ferns, lianas and palm trees, were various jambu (Syzygium) and
Figure 4.40 Chassalia chartaceae: red Figure 4.41 A clump of Nimbong palm
On the swamp side, with their feet in the water, or on dry land, were, shaggy and pinkish
white, forming the bulk of the forest, still many Melaleuca cajuputi trees.
Figure 4.42 Melaleuca cajuputi Scaffold joining honeybees nest trees Balau pasir near the
fallne Shorea materialis
As mentionned earlier, the Melaleuca tree had been of much service to the people in
Terengganu:[ the bark was used as caulking stuff for the boats as it expends in the water,
helping seal the seams between the planks and later, with its high tanin content, would protect
the wood from maritime worms. Its boles would become poles, or charcoal; its leaves provided
a medicinal oil (“minyak geliga”)] and in the polen of the flowers digested by the Apis dorsata
bees or by the kelulut stingless bees would -and still do, provide a tasty honey, dark in colour,
However, today, the Australian acacias (A.mangium and A. Auriculiformis) are becoming
dominant. Their wood serve as an easier nesting place for the bees, even if these are still friand
of the flowers of the Melaleuca. From Kuala Terengganu to Rantau Abang, the invasive Acacia
are seen thriving in the same habitat as the native Melaleuca, and replacing them.
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As we continued on the small road that goes through part of the Jambu Bongkok Forest, we
noticed a group of workers cutting the branches of a tree that had fallen on a cable. Puan Zaida
Zakaria, who is in charge of the recreational forests at the Forest Department of Terengganu,
explained: they were removing the crown of a balau pasir (Shorea materialis, of which the tall
stump, broken at about10 m high, could be seen standing further inside the forest. Traces of the
passage of honey hunters were noted: burnt timber and boxes, and deep cuts in the bark of a
nearby tree.
On Bukit Hawa, a hill at about 5 km inside the land nearby is a giant rock in the shape of a
turtle. A legend told how one of these giant leatherback (dermocheleys coriaceae) had settled
there and had become a kind of landmark magnet for its nestling congeners. The much-broken
rock could be a symbol of the sad fate of the leatherback turtles. These are not seen any more
on the Rantau Abang nesting place. They are even said to be extinct. The small tar road that
leads to their mausoleum goes through gelam, Acacias and pulai forested hills, along areas
Figure 4.43 View from the Bukit Hawa Figure 4.44 “Penyu menangis siapa yang
tahu”(J.M.Aziz);
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Back in summer 2014, in a phenomenon that was linked to the warmer climate and the peat
fires from Indonesia and Borneo, sparks would start wildfires that raged over many places in
the Peninsula, including on the east coast. As it is known that the Melaleuca, the Kemunting
(Rhodomyrtus tomentosa) and other hardy heath species are reputed to recover fast after a fire,
on our way back we stopped where the coast, on the road sides, had previously blackened.
Clumps of shrubby vegetation had already resumed growth. These new healthy bushes were
composed of Acacia Mangium. Of the native species, remained a few medicinal daun Siak
(Dianela ensifolia) with their pretty blue fruit and some Setebal (Hoya coronaria) climbers,
while the Rambut puteri (Cassyta filiformis) spread their orange colored nets on the sand..
Nowhere, even close to the water of a thin stream in a swale, any swamp or associate species
Figure 4.45 Acacia on the Sand dune Figure 4.46 Dianela ensifolia
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Even during short visits, or other passing by trips, it was possible to see that this part of the
coast in the state of Terengganu possessed complex, beautiful, fragile landscapes and
ecosystems. These seem threatened by seasonal fires, rubbish disposal and the need to find
more resources for the inhabitants. Protecting the existing flora and fauna assets, as well as the
fishing, the honey hunting, –and the hospitality industry, (which includes the most ancient
Malaysian university researchers (Drs. Jamilah and Faridah, Nakhzir Marden (2018), and
others such SEATRU at UMT, have been studying the different coastal ecosystems and the
services they provide. They intend to make them more known and see how to preserve them in
sustainable ways.
2018 With botanist Franz Limier: Re-visit in Rantau and Abang-Jambu Bongkok
Re-visit to the coast from Marang to Rantau Abang with botanist Frantz Limier
Our common objectif was to proceed to a brief review of the current state of the Jambu
Bongkok Forest Reserve, particularly, and generally, of the coastal landscapes, on the way from
Marang to Tanjong Jara with their vegetal cover and Bris ecosystem, for about 230 kmalong
the near-by sitting elderly villagers), fishing boats at anchor in the estuary of the Marang river
and a gigantic PAS flag. During this trip made during elections times, blue and green flags
would occult the views on the sides of the road in the few inhabited places.
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Figure 4.47 Marang harbor with Figure 4.48 Fire Figure 4.49
flag Ancistrocladus
Fire
In Merchang, a fire (probably a cigarette butt had been thrown on dry leaves) had
transformed the landscape of a large dune by the left side of the road. Calcined Melaleuca
cajuputi -gelam trees, and trunks of burnt Acacia were spread on the blackened sand. The
Figure 4.50 Hanging beards Figure 4.51 Melaleuca Figure 4.52 Mixed with
cajuputi Acacia
Water mark
Further towards the shore, was a softly undulated terrain of dunes and water bodies with
Melaleuca and a few -ancient by the looks of their girth, Acacias (Acacias were introduced
since 1930s in a forest compensation scheme (S.K.Yap, 1988). The landscape there was
dramatic due to natural causes: in places, the gelam trees and some old Acacias were
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decorated with greyish beards of dead algae. Both species carried at a height of up to about 1
Figure 4.53 Colours Figure 4.54 Beach Figure 4.55 No tourist then
classics
In places, the silhouettes of Melaleuca cajeputi were mirrored in pools of -black (acid) and red
(tannin) fresh water running parallel to the dunes and the shoreline. There were also the remains
the seashore, the succession of dunes and swales depressions led to the beach. The sea was of
many nuances of purple blue to green. Swishing fringes of white waves spread a darker orange
line on the sand. No tourists, but some plastic detritus evoked human presence.
Among other stranded rubbish from the sea: plastic bottles with Vietnamese writings.
Figure 4.56 Swale with Figure 4.57 Rodomyrtus Figure 4.58 From the sea
water tomentosa to chalets
Eagles flew around, hunting. Big lizards crossed hastily the path. Dragon flies rested on
leaves. A shaggy -dead-end earth road lined with the classic series of beach and heath
vegetation ran along the coast on the last fold of a dune above the “Merantau Inn” beach.
There were Pandanus, Scaveola, Rodomyrtus and Casuarina with some trees such as Vitex
lengundi and Syzygium grande. On the side towards the main road, -which was reinforced
with an embankment, the Bris landscape was still evident: growing on dune hills, thin
Melaleuca trunks and green bushes of Brugiera were mirrored in lagoons on a background of
[Further down the coast, our battered Proton car did not bend the sense of duty of the
Bangladesh guards: We had to skip appreciating the Tanjung Jara Hotel. The hotel resort,
designed to emulate vernacular features, had won, back in 1983 the Agah Khan Architecture
Award. The Tanjung Jara beach bay had more Vitex and Syzygium, a Calotropis fruit and a
Resources
Figure 4.59 Sand mining Figure 4.60 Forest Figure 4.61 Swiflets breeding
interrupted
Just before the actual entrance to the area of the “Rantau Abang Virgin Forest Reserve”, on the
left side of the main road, was a tar road leading to the “Turtle Hill”. There, a large mining
operation of white and gray sand [granite sediments?] for silica, replaced part of what had been
a dune forest of Melaleuca and Alstonia, the latter still exhibiting their tufted leaves and pagoda
habit in the background. Two large swiftlets breeding buildings completed the impression of
In the Forest Reserve itself, the view of a derelict main boardwalk explained why the Amenity
Forest is closed to the public, waiting for rehabilitation. Perhaps poaching on medicinal Ficus
deltoidea or Nepenthes pitchers may have added to the decision of cloture. The “Paya gelam”
-the Melaleuca swamp- though, is still attractive. Wild boars ran and macaques left the road as
our car approached. Slim 20/50cm in diameter and about 30m tall Dipterocarps grew on the
drier soil amidst shrubs such as the Catunaregam spinosus and Ardisia crenata.
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Reserve
A colony of kelulut stingless bees (*) had elected domicile in such a trunk (Hopea or Shorea
spp. from the looks of the leaves and dipterocarp seeds on the floor) the leaves of which, up
above, were not visible. Poachers had deeply cut the bark of the tree and collected the honey.
Bees were seen, beginning to swarm at the entrance of their former nest. Frantz put back in
Inside the swamp forest, numerous fish drew silver circles on the surface of the water as they
jumped in a black stream that flew through a pure stand of Melaleuca. The banks were eroded
on one side and accreted on the other, signalling strength of current surprising for an internal
body of water.
Figure 4.66 . Fish galore Figure 4.67 Nepenthes cups Figure 4.68. …in a row
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Above the ground covered with fallen leaves, hanged rows of vegetal cups of the Nepenthes
gracilis (peruk kera) and, further up, stood a rare sight: the flowering spike of the species.
4.2.3 Conclusions
Mengabang coastal dunes beauty is still there Still desolate, abandoned tourism projects,
some survive, so are the villager’s activities; Merchang, Jambu Bongkok…Silica mining.
Accacia kelulut, fish, aquaculture cages, sedge weaving. Forests have diminished
resources. In some places, the natural system of the coast is destroyed or disturbed by large
scale projects.
The case of the enclave of Jambu Bongkok -former- Reserve, then “Rantau Abang Amenity
Opened to too many people a preserved place lost the very qualities that attracted visitors, a
paradoxe that had already attracted the attention of Aldo leopold in 1949. What was
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neighborhood occasional collecting has become larger scale poaching: no more orchids, even
Nepenthes and less sought-after medicinal species such as mas secotet are becoming rare while
wild honey industry seems little supervised. Modern features: and a vast solar field has been
installed in Coara Marang to generate 116 MWp of electricity. Wind surfing sports develops
and Pantai Kelulut has won a reputation as the waves break strong and high on the beach.
Danger alarm/alert: Fires, waste deposits, aquaculture, new settlements, tourism, beach
“Coastal landscapes are not only supporting the most productive and ecologically valuable
ecosystem but are also fast changing, caused by both anthropogenic and natural processes.
Changes in the form of diminishing vegetation cover, water body and increasing urbanization
in Terengganu, East Coast of Peninsular Malaysia, for the years of 2000 and 2017 were
Changes due to urbanization raise concern over the loss of coastal landscape and may impact
its resilience, so it may no longer be able to provide key ecosystem services. This understudied
Living on site in Terengganu and often conducting ethnobotanical research for foreign and
local laboratories, had made this researcher realise that the houses in the villages clearly
expressed the culture, the heritage, and the identity of their inhabitants. Exploration of
residential habitat in the rural areas and in the towns of the state from 2000 to 2005 for a Master
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The selection of the house compounds was made on the basis that they were found in
localities of which the history was known, where people had been living for at least for three
plant species as well as a knowledge held by the inhabitants. They amply qualified as “cultural
landscape”, answering up to 17 academic criteria such as those gathered from the US National
Parks Registry (that identifies four cultural landscape types: -historic designed, -historic
vernacular, -historic agricultural, and -ethnographic), from the UNESCO, and various
sociological analysis.
After a general introduction on the village environing flora and habitat, a succinct
followed by re-visits in “present times” in 2013-2019, for each house and compound over the
recent years.
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Figure 4.70 Map with location of the described house compounds in Terengganu from
MA in architecture
Once the changes from ethnobotanical and landscape architecture perspectives are noted, it
will be possible, in the next chapter 5, to examine their significance, interpret further cultural
and social consequences that will help defining the general thrust of the evolution, perhaps
from one civilisation to another. Or from a life in a house compound microcosm or “holon”, to
The main characters of the landscape in the villages were the profusion of flora and its
diversity (194 individual species of plants listed for 16 dwelling); its verticality, as trees (54
species) dominated the views: Moving walls of greenery in the monsoon period, these gave the
landscape a feeling of grandiose presence of nature and of the continuity of the passage of
The most frequently encountered tree species in the sample are the mangoes (mempelam
epal, bacang), with their abundant foliage from which emerge, towards the beginning of March,
spindles of small red or violet flowers. Soon their heavy fruits will hang down, pulling the
branches downwards. Then come the jambu, the long red or white stamens of their flowers line
the ground while the tamarind trees that grow naturally at the back of the kitchen spread on the
ground their sour and sweet pods. Also present are papayas, duku with pleated trunk, lanky
durian and nangka, cousins of the breadfruit, whose giant fruits are quickly wrapped in batik
cloth by the villagers to protect them from birds and squirrels. One must also count the
prehistoric meninjau (Gnetum gnemon) with glossy dark green leaves. The pale yellowish flour
The 31 species of bushes or shrubs bring colours to eye level such as yellow and orange
pecah periuk (Ixora), sun-kissed, multicolored hibiscus, cekur manis flowers whose leaves are
savoured as vegetables, and aromatic limes. The ubi kayu (Manihot esculenta) with pink stems
escape from the gardens into the undergrowth and the trees of the belukra secondary growth.
Herbs are the most numerous (72 species). They range from long green rectangles of banana
leaves to aromatic gingers to vegetables, ulam “greens” and gingers, heralding a varied cuisine.
Among the palms, the Cocos nucifera, the coconut palm, is most frequent, followed by the
Areca. The palms are few in species (11 species), but around the houses, their trunks trace
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vertical lines toward the sky and the cut-out shadows of their foliage is projected on the sand.
Here and there, the orange nut of the Areca palm recalls the tradition of chewing the nut rolled
in betel leaves.
Climbing species and epiphytes, (26 species), ara Ficus (fig trees), Hoyas, and Vitis, give
82 Elements and accessories have been listed (cf inventory in Appendix A. “specific). There
are among others, cages for animals, storage huts, multi-purpose platforms, swings and
hammocks, high-backed benches made for stretching out legs or sitting cross-legged, displays
of potted plants, as well as, under the houses, gerai salai (after delivery platforms), screens,
looms, lesong (mortars) for tapioca and rice, jars, iron tripods blackened by cooking fires and
coconut provisions, next to sampans as well as tools for fishing and harvesting.
House compounds elements always present are the wells and their accessories. The wells,
built of brick or cement, are a rallying point used by different inhabitants of a household at
different times of the day, The sound of the triangular iron bucket banging against the walls
followed by the sound of water gushing over the shoulders and hitting the cement around the
well have traditionally been part of the soundscape. They mark the hours, as well as the calls
to prayer, they were used for cleaning and having fun, in turn for the showers of the children,
the filling of the jars for the kitchen and the washing of the clothes, for fishermen, peasants and
carpenters returning from work. The wells “halaman tempat saya mandi” (the place where I
wash myself) -from a pantun (DBP…)-, whether they were inside the house -for wealthy
families- or outside, were inseparable from the feeling of being "at home" and the concept of
home as a whole.
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Animals bring the landscape to life. Their territory covers that of dwellings. They share it
with human inhabitants, some with permission such as roosters and hens, red-crested Moscovi
ducks, turkeys, goats, geese, fighting cocks and the monkeys trained to pick coconuts. Cats are
caged or allowed to live their lives and are then excluded from homes. Clandestine but just as
present on the roofs, in the trees and on the ground, are the foxes, the squirrels, the tenggiling
(Malayan pangolin) amateurs of termites, the snakes and the clawed monitor lizards. Birds are
heard at different times of the day and night. Choirs of toads sing between the heavy showers
of the monsoon rain. The eagles enjoy their meal of fish or mice in a rengas tree (Gluta rhengas)
while they have made their nest at the top of a cengal pasir tree.
Within this green and living background are set the house of the villagers.
-Recapitulation for in the state tangible [intangibles such as lay out significance later in C 5]
features from“the past”: valid for all the inhabited areas, Pulau Duyong, the coast to Jambu
Plant species numbered: [@ 250]; Cultural architecture and landscape features: [ @ 80].
eras
To allow a view of the changes occurred in the house compounds as observed in the past
eighties and early 2000, a summary of a part of this researcher Msc in Architecture (Cultural
landscape…2007), has been rewritten, summarized, and completed with brief accounts of re-
visits made in 2014-2019 showing the latest developments in the surveyed sites. Following the
different “types” of house compounds as studied in 2005-2007 as seen in the” past era”:
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i) “Rakyat”1
The main features of the “rakyat” type of habitat are the modest size of the land, the simple
styled roof, the low cost of the building materials. Often, there are signs of commercial activity
Rakyat 1:
Island of Pulau Ketam, in the Terengganu River: Che Da’s Wan Teh’s house compound
told of her many activities towards earning a living. In 1990, located about twenty meters from
a small tar road that crosses the rather green Pulau Ketam, Che Da’s home was a comfortable
household in timber, with a roof made of batu bata Singhora -clay tiles and a lambur -verandah.
A well was at the back, near the kitchen stairs. There were sheds for chicken and storage for
lidi brooms from coconut palms and mengkuang palms that had been collected nearby or from
around the cemetery in Pulau Duyung. In 2005, Recently widowed from her husband (fishing
boat skipper and part owner) with still schooling children, -Che Da continued weaving
multicolored colored supek mengkuang, -20 x 40 cm bags, and mats that are bought by a
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Chinese small trader in the market of Kedai Payang in Kuala Terengganu.[ She also looks after
young children of some relatives]. She informed that a sprained wrist was treated with the bark
of a terajang tree (Erioglossum rubiginosum) and used postpartum medicinal leaves for her
daughter’s after-delivery shower, all species found in the compound or in the vicinity. (Cf
Figure 4.71 a)Well, kitchen with “periuk” for herbs, b)Che Da,making a broom from
coconut leaves, c) Family on stairs
In 2014, Che Da had been asked to move away by the landowners who wished to build
modern houses for rent. The house and the livelihood accessories around had disappeared. Only
the well and the concrete front stairs remained. Some original plant spp. survived.
Re-visits
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A last visit in July 2018 showed that all material memory of the compound had disappeared,
including well and stairs, everything swallowed by the secondary growth of Calladium,
Passiflora and Hibiscus tilliaceus. Concrete houses have been built, further towards the road.
“Rakyat 2”: Nearby, at about 10 meters from the new tar road was the house compound of
Enche Hamzah, a retired army man. Back in the 90ties, in the river were his fish farm basins,
at the entrance, a vast shed used for meetings -as En Hamzah’s wife was active in local politics.
Ornamental plants were displayed in pots on top of concrete columns. On the side of a stream,
small fences separated chicken from ducks and mangrove. A putat Barringtonia asiatica and a
kekatong (Cynometra cauliflora) and some fruit trees remained from the original mangrove
vegetation.
Re-visit
In July 2018, the house was not visible from the road as a new building made of concrete
dressed in blue ceramics with a modern glass door stood on the border of the road, replacing
the former meeting shed. However, past the new open kitchen balcony, one could appreciate
the continued planting efforts of the house owners: A swing is next to a garden of Lagermia
and other edible Cucurbitaceae, as well as vegetable and ornamental plant species growing over
the new concrete banks of the stream. The ancient timber house is now rented as a ‘homestay”.
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The formerly central original putat Baringtonia Asiatica is not there anymore. A few kekatong
(Cynometra cauliflora) fruit can still be spotted near the ground on the tree. In 2019, the new
Figure 4.75 a) The new concrete house by the road display of ornamental plants b) That
house with the plants nursery by the river bankside is now on a popular afternoon jogging
route.
Rakyat 3: In Kuala Terengganu, in the town area of Jalan Kamaruddin, known for its - often
large- concrete bungalows belonging to government servants, was the timber house of En.
Mansor -a police inspector, whose father had been a royal house builder. The height of the
supporting pillars and of the walls, the crossed gable roofs with buah gutong finials and the
elaborated window panels on the sorong (protruding part of visitors area) signaled the proper
design for an aristocratic town house. However, the compound was neither vast neither had it
an alley leading to the main door. Near the kitchen door, on the ground floor, a tall pauh mango
Figure 4.76 Past: façade on the Southern Figure 4.77 Ornemental species
side
Re-visits
This house compound in Jalan Kamarudin was revisited a few times. Enche Mansor had
passed away in 2006 (?) but ornamental species were still there, -even increased in quantity- as
well as the welcoming round bench. Concrete larger stairs replace the timber ones. A ”wakaf”
gazebo were neighbours and family members gather, has inherited of one of the former house
Figure 4.78 Present: façade with “wakaf” Figure 4.79 … Present: ceramic stairs, South
family gazebo
Rakyat 4:
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in Sungai Rengas, South Ouest of Kuala Terengganu was the house of Enche Abdul
Rahman or “Pak Man”-a relative of Tukku Paluh- who often used to help patients with prayers
and medicinal plants species. The house, although large, was modest with its horizontal
planking and 4 ft height pillars. Under the floor were jars and the wooden pieces of a kek, a
tool for weaving the golden thread of the songket festival garments. A well was in the front
yard with a jambu air Syzygium tree. At the back of the house were the furrows of a vegetable
garden and a “clinic” where some medicinal roots and dry leaves were kept in plastic bags.
Figure 4.80 Large building, added Figure 4.81 Large Figure 4.82 Kek for
bathroom building, added “Songket” “Clinique ”
bathroom
Re-visit
In July 2018, although seemingly not abandoned, as the ground was swept and the stairs
renovated, the were no signs of inhabitants, but young man came out: Since his father and his
mother had passed away, his sister did not feel like staying there. Himself was working in Kuala
Lumpur. Jars, Kek and vegetable garden had disappeared, so had the well. The “clinic” had
served for a while as an extra relaxing room. The trees, old durians and duku at the back of the
house had been cut, so had the jambu near the well.
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Figure 4.83 2016 renovation Figure 4.84 Clinique used for a while as
extra room
In 2004, Nek Aisha’s house compound was delimited on one side by the beach of the China
Sea, on the other by a small coastal road that led toward Kuala Besut. Coconut trees grew
around the house, together with a red flowered dedap tree (Erythrina variegata) and a sukun
(Atrocarpus altilis). The main beam of the house was oriented towards Mekka while a large
verandah adorned the Eastern façade. There were few sheds by the zinc shower room,sheltering
motorcycles, stacks of new roof tiles. and small boat accessories. Widowed from herhusband -a
diver and a fisherman, Nek Aisha has set a sundry shop and sold fried banana. She was also an
experienced midwife.
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Re-visit
In 2017, re-visiting the beach areas, it was at first difficult to find the house, even traces of
it: It had to be moved, by “administration order” was the explanation. There were abundant
belukar and beach species. A daughter of Nek Aishah has now a house in Kampong Tanjung
on the other side of the road; nearby grows a sukun Artocarpus altilis. On the seaside, the
Chinese house is abandoned, only some half-demolished keret concrete basins for ikan bilis -
anchovies- fish-boiling, remained. During a re-visit on the site in July 2018, the well could not
be seen. Only the remains of basins were left, in the former yard of the Chinese house, that had
disappeared as well.
ii) Aristocrat
Even in the eighties and 2000, the “Aristocrat” house compound type of habitations were
the less easy to discover as they were less common: Their inhabitants had the means to re-build
modern bungalows in brick or concrete or to emigrate towards the capital of Kuala Lumpur.
However, when finding oneself in front of such a house, one realizes that it is particular in its
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original architecture, its large grounds marked in places by vegetal borders or a brick and
Figure 4.86 Aristocrat house compound sketch: Priority: status symbols; a gathering of
roofs or a vast residence on well swept grounds surrounded with a semi-circle of tall trees. A
driveway leads to the residence. Characteristic feature: decorative elements, for example
“sobek” -wooden panels cut outs with stylised floral motives or with Islamic calligraphy
(Four examples).
Aristocrat 1: On the Island of Pulau Duyong, in the estuary of the Terengganu River, is the
Figure 4.87 Restored building: Figure 4.88 Corinthian Figure 4.89 Restored
Museum capitals building: Museum
first-floor brick and stucco
bathroom
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The vast house of the Judge Dato Biji Sura, built in 1919, and thanks to concerted efforts
from many parts, including the descendants of DBJ, Badan Warisan,UTM Skudai, and
inhabitants of the island of Duyung, has been restored in 1995, has been arranged into a
museum, Twelve buildings in various vernacular and foreign style, raised on 2 meters high
columns are in timber on the first floor and in brick and stucco on the ground floor. The
buildings and their garden are surrounded by a wall which has no less than six gates. A concrete
gutter system brings used waters to the river. In addition to the two basins (kolah) located near
the stairs for ritual ablutions and for washing the feet, there are two wells, one on the first floor
in the bathroom -it is 5 m deep- and another one, outside the ”fort” -the “kota”, for the guests.
There were a few trees inside the fort such as the delima -Zyzyphus mauritiana- which was
often in the past used by neighbours for bathing deceased persons, or the traditional welcome
melor -Jasmin, near the stairs under the arches of the entrance porch, a Datura perhaps used for
asthma.
Re-visits
Today, the Museum of the Kota Lama Duyung, mentionned in tourism brochures, is open,
and, except for some activities such as a photography contest in 2019, it is not much visited.
The external well and bathroom are still there, but remain forgotten. Curiously, a slim tongkat
Ali (Eurycomia longifolia) a species from the forest, is grown near the backyard selasar
Figure 4.90 Kitchen reconstitution Figure 4.91 Tongkat Ali in the garden
Aristocrat 2: In Seberang Kampong Batin, on the left bank of the Terengganu River, was
a vast timber house painted in pale green, the workmanship of which (with Art Deco -1920-
1940- inspiration) was apparent especially in the details of the windows of the façade and of
the staircase. The many atap belanda roofs with traditional finials stood out on a dark
background of tall cengal pasir -Hopea odorata. In front of the bay window of the façade, was
a broad alley decorated with ornamental flowers Allamanda, cactuses and Ruellia simplex.
Figure 4.94 Staircase handle Figure 4.95 Rear part and tempayang
Re-visits
In 2015, the land behind the beautiful house of Mak Engku has been sold and the chengal
pasir trees have been felled. Some of the roofs had been repaired, tiles changed for asbestos
Then in 2018, the house was empty, seemingly abandoned as bushes had invaded the front
alley. (Pics.) Haji Abdul Rahman had passed-away, and Engku Zaimah had moved out to live
with a sister. Only the persistent Ruellia simplex remained by the stairs.
In the Losong village, the residence in “Bugis” style of Haji Abdul Ghani, a former
government officer, facing, but separated by a road, the one his great grand-father Haji
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Mohamad Kaya and that of his grand-father Haji Su, also in “Bugis” style. The carefully made
windows of the house reminded of the sophisticated “Holland” (Belanda) window casements
favored by wealthy Bugis people in Sulawesi. A carousel for vehicles circulation ran under a
porch, the roof of which was brought to the heigh of the house through high timber pillars. A
serambi gallery linked the two wings of the facade of the building. A beautiful jambu
(Syzygium aqueum) tree has been grown in front of the porch, protecting the stairs. Under the
house, were a big jar, movable partitions, a sampan and, in the garden, as a background, stood
Re-visits
In 2018, part of the land has been bought by the government to allow the construction of a
road leading to a new market. It was then necessary to build a wall to prevent automobilists
from parking by the side of the house. Shops have been opened at the back of the house near
the market, replacing the mango trees. The jambu in front of the entrance stairs has been fell
Figure 4.98 a) View of the new entrance, ornamental Allamanda on the side of the lowered
stairs, b) old mango trees and coconut in the background have gone, or remain on the sides,
unused.
Priority: Family: “A surau, a common well and some houses are connected. There is an
“enclosure feeling” because of visible or intangible boundaries. Tall and old trees are around
the compound, at entrance and exit. Characteristic feature: “titian” passage between the houses
The habitat of the type “Clan” is born out of the initiative of the founder, often a historical
figure. The houses of the family members are built close by his. The whole place endowed
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with a surau -Islamic chapel- gives the impression of an independent village or a small
principality. The entrance is framed with tall fruit trees. A few houses in various styles stand
separately but are often linked together by timber passages, common bridges, or balconies.
Figure 4.100 a) Tokku Paloh, b) alley and jambu trees, c) high timber columns, d) tri-
dimensional carvings
This compound -a village in fact-, founded by the charismatic Syed Abdul Rahman Saiyid
Abdur Rahman bin Saiyid Muhammad al-Aydarus (1817-1917) or “Tok Ku Paloh” housed his
many wives and his disciples. In Tok Ku’s time, there was a fruit trees orchard including cloves
(Syzygium odorata), and medicinal species, and as well a weapon training area near the two
kolah basins close to the surau chapel, and a 2 m diameter wide public well. Two of the houses
were in bujang berpeles berserambi -single buildings with fascia boards and long verandas-
had relief carvings. Other houses had atap belanda (“Dutch roof” style) with jambu, duku,
meninjau trees in a vast courtyard, and with another well “for workers”.
Re-visits
During visits in the 1990ties, the atmosphere and the architecture of the “aristocratic village”
could still be felt, under the shade of the old trees. In the present times (2018), carvings can
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still be seen on the facades, but parts of the houses -roofs, walls- had to be renovated and new
material used (asbestos). Trees have been cut. The tiang timber columns have been shortened
and their belira -openings for reinforcements beams, are now empty. Garages have appeared
on the ground floor. Side verandas (selasar) have disappeared. A new surau with simple
planking replaces the old one. The kolah basin and the large well have been wrapped in
ceramic. Buah gutong and tujuk langit are both placed on the kolah roof, Modern bungalows,
some with neo-vernacular features, have been built on the divided land.
Figure 4.101 a) Land fragmented, modern bungalows b) The well with its clay bricks c)
Figure 4.102 Two buildings of the many houses of Haji Mat Kaya and his descendants in
Losong:‘tiga berpeles”with front “serambi”; “Belanda” roofs with two “sorong”protruding
elements
The splendid old residences that spread over the “kampong Losong” belonging to the family
of haji Mat Kaya bear witness of the artistic and architectural sense that ran in the in the family,
as well as of their financial means. Seen in the nineteen eighties, the most modern building had
a ground floor in brick and stucco, a first floor with “atap Belanda”or“Dutch roof” over three
main buildings. It was linked -at the back -clan style- to the more ancient rumah berpeles
berkembar tiga -three twin houses with fascia bords- with a serambi -front long porch.
Figure 4.103 Other houses of Haji Mat and his family in Losong
Re-visits
Now, in 2019, at the passing away of the last descendant living in the front house, both the
buildings have been bought, restored, (2017?) and have become part of Terengganu State
Museum. A few plant species evoking ancient uses have been planted by the side of alleys
Nearby a small tributary of the Terengganu River -Sungai Hiliran- on the right side of the
estuary, a gathering of houses belongs to the family of Haji Yusof “Kelang”, a businessman
who had calmed troubles in the iron mines in Dungun [and had received shares in Kelang].
There are six houses, belonging to sisters -three in a line -of which two are linked through a
common porch, then, two more in front, and one on the side. All stand on massive timber pillars
but in various architectural styles. Windows with pointed arches, which -surprisingly, evoke,
(like in Seberang Bukit Tumbuh), Western “Art Deco” style (1925-1940), showing that their
owners had travelled. On the other hand, the patterns of the sobek -symmetrical and symbolic
cut out carvings above the windows, are representative of the East Coast traditional craft. A
surau on stilts complete the feeling of a living community. On the kitchen side, a double roof
Figure 4.105 Linked houses Pillar tops Western inspired Traditional carvings
Re-visits
Today, Haji Yusof clan compound is somewhat disrupted by the appearance of garages, one
in the middle of the land and the other under a house. Altogether, care is still obvious. The
surau has been elevated and restored. A small garden is on the side with usual ornamental and
On the island of Pulau Ketam, right behind the mosque, the descendants of The Nakhoda
Haji Ibrahim -captain of the legendary sailing trader “Najuah”-,have gathered their houses. The
most ancient is in the “bujang berpeles” style. The others are “Belanda” with “buah gutong”
finials. A common well is outside in the middle of a small courtyard. A cengal tree - the species
used in the past as mast for the big Malay trading schooners- is preserved. For a long time
“jeragan”(trawler captain), one of the descendants of Haji Ibrahim, has become a fighting cocks
breeder as cages inhabited by proud gallinaceae. can be seen in the garden and around his
house.
Figure 4.107 Path to the ancient common well present activities: fighting cocks
memories from the past
Re-visits: The land has been divided. Only two houses remain linked by the common
Clan 5
Figure 4.108 a) Awang besar’s family: carved “sorong veranda,b) entrance door with
In the city of Kuala Terengganu, behind Jalan Kampong Cina, the main residence of the
family of Haji Awang Besar (a wealthy trader whose story is linked to the brief episode -tree
weeks in August1945- of the communist rule) was marked by a timber gate with a tile roof and
finials and by a serambi serong -protruding veranda- surrounded with a cut out wooden frieze
and window lintels ornamented with similarly cut out carvings. The roofs were in” Belanda”
style. The well was in the common interior yard. A lawn and ornamental species filled the
garden of the main building. The other houses, simpler, were disposed in line with the first,
Re-visits
Since 2014, this “clan house compound” has completely disappeared. Behind the blue
palisades of an urban development, a large piece of land in the center of town has been bought
Today, nothing remains of the once famous Lorong Haji Jamil and of the neighboring
surau, of the stucco and brick and other carved timber buildings. However, nothing has been
built since. In 2019, Belukar bushes and invasive species still rules.
Figure 4.109 Farm” house compound sketch with lambur verandah, baloh padi, fence,
chicken cages, plants presentoir,
Lay out: a thin circle of trees around a house standing on clean floor with a rustic fence. Inside the compound,
sheds of various sizes Type. Priorities: harvest, storage for tools and harvest storage and animals lodgings
Features: large veranda “lambur” and baluh padi (Huts to store the padi).
The “farm” type of house compounds is different from the house and garden of the “Rakyat” in
the fact that their surroundings are vast, that there are few trees near the house itself, to facilitate
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the circulation of the harvested products, of the workers and customers. There are, though, a few
shelters with various functions. The wooden pillars are generally only of around 1m 30 meter high.
Figure 4.110 a) 2004 house wall material: Tree bark b) Eltingeria elator
Figure 4.111 c) Bunga kantan, still there d) Tongkat Ali ,left to grow
[It was in Kampung Setebu: a place surveyed in 2000 Upon a hill in Ulu Telemong in the
vicinity of Pasir Dula and Sungai Gawi that information on the Buluh Nipis camp had been
The house of Mek Senai, whose services were appreciated, even down in Kuala
Terengganu, was perched on the side of a forested hill, upstream from the Telemong River in
kampong Setebu. Part of the walls were made from the bark of seraya tree (Shorea cutisii). The
rustic stairs were made in logs, but a proper buah gutong finial decorated the roof. Around,
flowers of kantan (Eltingeria elator), fruit trees (duku, setor, rambutan), a chicken house on
stilts, -with a rope attached “to set an alarm from the house in case of a fox incursion”. A long
barn for cows and a square patch of medicinal tongkat Ali (Eurycoma longifolia) completed the
-Re-visits:
In Ulu Telemong, at the Setebu farm house compound, the vegetation is now left to grow,
it seems, out of respect for the now disappeared grand mother, but it is neither maintained nor
used. The house is only occupied by a son who now works somewhere else. On the walls,
timber planking has replaced the tree bark. The stairs are now built out of planks. However, the
mangoustan, mempelam and other setor trees are still bearing masses of fruit that were kindly
shared by a grand son who is living in a house nearby while the Eurycoma shrubs have
continued to grow.
The village of Belada Selat, on the banks of the Terengganu River, has been affected by
the construction of a dam that has suppressed the seasonal floodings and, with them, the catches
of fresh water fish and the rice harvests. This is what explained in 2004 Cik Wok, a 78 years-
old lady, owner of land, orchards and rice fields. Her residence, with its buildings in bujang
berpeles style and kumai paneling, dating from the beginning of the 20th century, stood on 2
meters high timber pillars. It is located in the middle of the land. On the kitchen side, the waste-
waters streamlet was bordered with gingers. On the left, was a closed garden with fragrant
flowers (cempaka, kesidang); on the right side, were giant banana trees and a baloh padi (hut
to store rice). Under the entrance veranda, was a gerai (platform) for resting with a broom made
of palms stalks. Further under the house, farm accessories were stored and, in the foreground,
stacks of baskets for the duku fruits.”A harvest of duku -a pilgrimage to Mekka” said Che Wok.
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Re-visits
In Belada Selat, in 2018 ”The house is not there anymore” told a villager. After verification,
it appeared that the old residence is still standing in the centre of the farm, but it is not quite
recognizable, as it is hidden behind the addition of a painted wooden building, while the land
around has lost the shade of its gigantic durian trees. An enterprise for the production of soya
bean juice is set on the rigth side. Cik Wok has passed away, and her garden is nowabandonned.
Figure 4.113 a) The farm b) A client for c) Haji Tahir d) Baloh padi
house tamarind fruit
Cempaka is a flower (Michelia alba) but it also evokes the heritage of the kingdom of
Champa and the cultural traditions of the North East. In fact, the grand father of Haji Tahir who
lives in this house compound, came from Patani. The timber house built with vertical planks
has a buah gutong finial on the front roof. It is located in the middle of a land delimitedby a
coconut tree on each of the four corners. Bags of fertilizers are stored under the floor.Twobaloh
padi are in front of the verandah, which is rather large and is used for meetings around
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the rice harvest and other sales from the orchards and pastures, as well as during the top
Re-visits :
In Bukit Cempaka, Haji Tahir has passed away. His veranda is now empty as his children
have employments in town that keep them away during the day. Gone also one of the two baloh
padi, the monkey who used to climb coconut trees, the planks display for species to plant. The
well has now an electrical pump, yet a timba pail is still used. A son of haji Tahir , just retired
was happy to demonstate his ability with the traditional “bong” coconut dehusker,
In Padang Air, an area previously rather low (the name means “water field”), 10 km North
of Kuala Terengganu is the farm compound of Haji Da, whose father -a raja, a ruler- came
from Pagar Ruyung in Sumatra, had cleared the land. The house, as is typical of the rural
habitations as well as those of farmer owners, had a vast verandah (lambur) on the front part
of the house. Facing the main building, a baloh padi (hut to store the rice) stands, confirming
the importance of the harvests. However, the other activities of Haji Da were visible in the
workshop for turning tops added close to the verandah, and in the “bekam Clinic” shed, with
benches for the patients, further on the right from the house. Not far grew a mango tree on
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which climbed the thick and sweet liana tebu gajah (Albizia myriophylla) found very
Figure 4.115 Haji Da preparing sireh, the “bekam” treatment Clinique, Mango and Albizia
Figure 4.116 Spinning tops turning shed Figure 4.117 Cow and duku tree at the
back of the house
Two cows were grazing on a meadow at the back of the compound. Their horns are used in
the traditional bekam treatment, to aspire blood from the capillary vessels of the patients.
In 2013, Haji Da ‘s son, Ayah Wain as he is known, had taken over the bekam practice after
the demise of his father. The original house had been divided in two parts for use by other
siblings who work outside. Ayah Wain himself has built a larger treatment shed, with
information and illustrations and a modern concrete house in front of the new clinic. On the
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space close-by he has created a garden of medicinal -and other- species. The tebu gajah is there,
some plants given by the orang asli to him (list in appendix). Old herbalism and moderntrends
are mixed: with goji (Synsepalum dulcificum) taste modifier from West Africa and Indonesian
Figure 4.118 The new clinic and its garden: Albizia myriophyla, Phaleria nacrocarpa,
Abelsmoschus, Pterydophytes and New house in concrete
Conclusion
As seen in the re-visits of the house compounds, three sites have disappeared, two
“Rakyat”and one “Clan”. Many have seen their character changed (the farms), or diminished
(the clans). Two “Aristocrats” types have become museum…As many cultural features and
plant species were not found during re-visits, the “typology” discovered during the past era can
be now questionned. However, among the change, traits of faithfullness to the past remain.
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Orang Asli
In 1996, the Terengganu Hills were recognized as one of the biodiversity hotspots in
Peninsular Malaysia (Kiew,1996). Its flora was estimated to comprise approximately 1500
vascular plant species. Exact figures were then not available as the Terengganu Hills had not
been the subject of any detailed botanical investigation since Corner mounted two expeditions
to Ulu Kemaman in 1932 and 1935 (Kiew,1996). These, except for Bukit Bauk (Tams
Mey,1998) and Gunung Padang (Umul Nazrah et al., 2011) still remained under-collected and
Figure 4.119 1ocation of the sites in the“Hill forests” Map North of Terengganu with Lata
i) Lata Belatan
Given the botanical diversity of Terengganu, the most practical way to obtain knowledge
on the medicinal species was, at first, to interview traditional practitioners. In the eighties, the
villages, the coasts, with the island of Duyong, and the” hunting grounds” of Mat Kapur along
the mangroves and the lowland forests, had already delivered more than 300 medicinal species.
Forest trips were made to obtain an actual look at the plants whose roots were known but not
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always their live form, get acquainted with the habitat of these plants that had been until then
obtained from sellers at the market, or from the orang asli. In 2001, the Forest Department of
Terengganu was interested by the wish of the French “Mu Laboratory” to collaborate with a
Malaysian institution. Forest workers and particularly field foresters specializing in “Non-
Timber Forest Products” (NTFP) were appointed to guide expeditions. The Purpose of the visits
was the recognition of plants with medicinal, cosmetic, or other effect on the human bodyfor the
As usual in tropical rain forests, the view was limited by the profusion of trunks of
varying size, and to identify the trees, one should climb high at about 50 to 150ft to reach an
improbable flower. The foresters that guided this researcher’s team of ethnobotanists and
phyto-pharmacists would show the characteristic black bark of an Ebenaceae, or let make a
dent in a fragrant Cinnamomum. Smaller medicinal species were at hand or at eye level: Easily
recognizable were the Polyaltia, the Smilax, or lianas like Fibraurea coccinea with the bright
yellow section of its wood, all visible as they were often growing towards the light above the
tracks.
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Figure 4.120 Lata Belatan:a) Landscape, b)Tristanopsis whitreana and Ixora javanica,
The most remarkable landscapes in the hills of Hulu Besut are those created by the
“lata” high waterfalls. The monsoon rains rush down over the tributaries of the Besut river
such as the sungai Tenang (Lata Tembaka) or sungai Belatan, falling over granite boulders,
enhancing the many colours of the rocks. It is -by forestry law, forbidden to fell down
riparian species such as Pelawan (Tristanopsis obovata) and even the caustic Rhengas, so that
tall trees frame the view of the waterfalls, adding the shapes and various nuances of their
trunks and crowns to the scene of the cascading water, sand beaches and green pools.
Figure 4.121 Gunung Tebu and lata Belatan: slabs of mafic granite boulders weathered with
time and eroded by monsoon rains
platforms and seeps through grey and orange boulders to fall into fish crowded green pools.
The area is the starting point to the climb to the summit of Gunung Tebu. That year, the NTFP
(No-Timber Forest Products) foresters were moving medicinal species from the forest as well
as from the villages to create an “Herboratum Perubatan” where they had planted medicinal
species in pots and exhibited them on an area at the bottom of the hills. Attractive species were
seen on the slopes around and on the forest path: Petaling, Kempas, the Pelawan, and the
precious Karas -Aquilaria species which fight a fungus by producing a black resinous
substance, that, when burnt, exhale the “hood” fragrance, world-famous because of the rich,
deep, spicy and lasting note of the smoke-. Although part of the newly opened recreation zone,
the area was not yet much visited. “Otherwise, that tree would not have survived!” said,
smiling, one of the foresters. The cauliflory flowers of an Artabotrys had an acid and sweet
fragrance. After a harvest of about 40 species, (cf. Appendix A. specific) shown, pictured and
-in a few cases, specimen collected, the guides led to the agro-tourism resort of Peladang Setiu
where other species where found. To complete the reconnaissance, for the foreigners, not far
from the road, toward Kuala Terengganu in belukar secondary growth around some fields, were
two famous species: The sweet Tebu gajah -Albizia myriophylla- and the controversial Ketum
-Mitrogyna speciosa.
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The large “Peda batholythe” as is called this rock zone in the Northern part of the Terengganu
state has been formed during eruptions of mafic material from the earth core, which have not
exploded, but have been weathered by successive monsoons over hundreds of thousand years
( Receptive visitors would feel the forces at work and will, somehow revere such places where
humanity seems dwarfed by nature: silat, cult, meditation are practiced (as in many places in
The occasion to reach the actual summit occurred only in 2009, during the visit of a French
another visit with a botanist. the mountain culminating at 1.039 ft amongst the smaller peaks
on the right side of the Besut River valley, was fated to attract the imagination of the
inhabitants. The climb to the summit is like an initiatory journey with series of downward
slopes and progressive climbs. Stations associated each with a story, line the track: Batu Mat
Hassan (Mat Hassan meditation spot), Tempat cik Izah jatuh, Jendela Pandang, the Cemetry,
the Dewan (Parliament). The domes of tall Dipterocarps still conquer the view of the sky, but
picturesque or medicinal species such as the “doted” Ficus deltoides and Nepenthes were seen
growing in a lowland area with mosses and rocks, while on the drier summit, shrubby species
are found: Baekia, Leptospermum, Podophyllum. On clear days, the view extends in the North
Logged over part of the regenerating Pelagat Forest Reserve are lower hill
dipterocarps (623 to 1180 ft) Lower montane Forest. During an exploration trip organised 2002
after a visit to Lata Belatan, the track climbed slowly on a floor of leaves, roots and herbs
growing on the steep hill side. At a waterfall indicated as the “fifth” one the track followed the
Tenang stream. Tenang means calm in Malay. It is not so “tenang” as its waters fall from
reappear in deep and clear pools where fish abounds. Some of the fishes are eager to clean
visitor feet from dead skin, a delicacy for them. stream on its rocky banks with ropes and
The foresters showed about 40 species., most of them plants with a medicinal use: 20 trees,
7 shrubs, 4 climbers, 7 herbs, 1 epiphyte (Cf. Appendix A, Specific). Their information was
noted. Five species were kept in view as their described effect -corroborated by the literature-
quadrifida- (for sinusitis) that irritates the nose, provokes phlegm and vigourous sneezing;
Sepetir minyak -Sindora coriacea-: oil from a hole in the trunk is used for cicatrisation. On the
road back, Terajang -Lepisanthes kunstleri- was signaled again as its leaves can be used for
soap when fresh, while the reddish-orange bark serves in the treatment of sprains or broken
bones. Raja satun -Pachycentria constricta- (also the name given to Hydnophytum or
Myrmecodia species) an about 15 cm large spheric epiphyte reputed for treating breast cancer,
Further visits gave the opportunity to witness the increase of the planted medicinal
species. The team of knowledgeable foresters began to provide universities in the country
plants for their own gardens. At the initiative of the director of Sylviculture, En Samsudin bin
Salleh, they together composed a book and, in collaboration with the Terengganu Museum,
organized an exhibition of medicinal plants they had collected, planted in large jars and
Figure 4.125 a) Pak Hussin precising an information, b) Mustapha and Pak Him have
gathered specimen to plant in the University of Science Malaysia (USM) Penang.
ii)Traditional practitioner
Pak Hussin from a nearby village was the son of a midwife who taught him much of his
knowledge. His indications were recorded while walking along trails on the Lata Belatan
tracks. Fauzi, his son, 20, did not learn from his father therapeutic information but knew all the
tracks in the mountains around Gunung Tebu. He was a dedicated and athletic guide.
iii) Foresters
As this researcher never missed to inform the Forest Department and to ask the necessary
permission to enter forest territory (together with specialists from the UM, CNRS, French Labs
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such as SREP, Mu Lab), proposed a collaboration and reports on the results, the director of the
Forest Terengganu Department provided the help assistance of forest personnel such as
Mustapha and Pak Ibrahim who had been field workers in Chalok, Belatan, Sekayu, and often
Among the foresters who led in the forest of Lata Belatan and Lata Tembaka the team of
Ibrahim and Mustapha was outstanding in their knowledge of species reported as medicinal.
They had collected information from the villagers the reputation of whom they knew.
Gathering the plants on the forest slopes, they built a medicinal garden, at first on base of the
Lata Belatan area. Each had a different “style” of relationship with the forest and the plants
abilities. [from manuscript notes] Pak Him concepts were more oriented towards a cosmologic
interpretation of nature where plants and animals had a life force or soul not different from
human beings. His concepts were perhaps not remote from the modern ecological philosophy
such as the one of Janet Bennet Vibrant Matter (2010) Stephen Harding’s animate earth (2011)
but with deference towards Islamic views. On his side, Mustapha emphasized the practical
aspect of the traditional prescriptions for a therapeutic dose, for example: “Satu genggam”, -a
handful-, a measure than can be considered as the approximate size of a sick person’s own
iv) Collaboration between the State Museum and Forest State Department.
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Figure 4.125 Medicinal plants exhibition at the Terengganu Museum @ 200 spp. An Italian
In 1988, the Terengganu State Museum [(Cf, My articles, Utusan Melayu)] installed a
medicinal plants exhibition on the vast neo-vernacular concrete building of the State Museum.
They choosed the equivalent of a Serambi, -the long verandah of timber traditional houses-,
but in the museum grand proportions (@20 m large by 40 m long). Ailments and illnesses had
“booths” where their therapeutic plants were presented, like in a live pharmacy.
Parallelly, The Forest State Department started the publication of a book on traditional
v) Authors of a book
The book “Ubat UbatanTerengganu” resulting of individuals genuine interest was supported
by Datok Akhirudin Director of the Forest Department in two volumes published in 2006 and
2011, at the initiative of the Sylviculture Director, Haji Shamsuddin Salleh, with officers
Salleh Endut and Rhadi Chu, and Mustapha Omar and Ibrahim .
This researcher, having been trusted with the translation into English and the editing of
these volumes, realized how significant this work, composed by the foresters themselves, from
men on the field to higher officers. A page, one for each plant species, provides Malay name,
scientific name, synonyms in Malay, medicinal uses, parts used, mode of utilization, mixtures
The most often mentioned illnesses are: in Volume 1 (2006): Post-partum: 39; hypertension:
32; calculi: 29; diabetes: 22; Fever: 20; cancer/tumor: 18 arthritis/rheumatism: 16;
winds/flatulence: 14; constipation: 12; cough: 11; sinusitis: 3; In Vol. 2 (2011): Post-partum
selepas bersalin : 32; hypertension darah tinggi: 29; calculi batu karang: 29 ; diabetes -kencing
translations and equivalences. Some illnesses or complaints are identified as symptoms for ex.
Fever, some by their diagnostic, hypertension, diabetes, some as treatment ex.: pos-partum
meroyang Equivalences: Angin and darah tinggi. Modern diagnostics are given as well:
hypertension, diabetes…
Medicinal species habitats cover not only the forest, even though documentation done by
foresters, as the practitioners and villagers they have interviewed have shared their knowledge
on the species in their own environment, in their compounds, the belukar, the mangrove areas
an d the beaches
Botanical descriptions, with Malayized scientific terms, are given. A good measure of
vernacular medicinal practice is explained as well about the combination with other species, or
the administration method such as for taking Batu Jin (Strobilanthes crispa). .A warning is
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given about Hempedu bumi -Andrographis paniculata- which “tidak boleh di gunakan secara
terusan” (“cannot be used for a long time”). Modern information is mentioned as for the value
of a Periuk kera” -Nepenthes ampullaria-, the host of an endophyte promising for leukemia
Medicinal species habitats that are mentioned. There are not only the forest species but -
approximatively they are: altitude forest 10 %, lowland forest 10%, open spaces 20 %, villages
Even though documentation is done by foresters, as the practitioners and villagers they have
interviewed share their knowledge on the species in their own environment, in their
There are moments when traditional knowledge is given in modern terms: pelepas bersalin
or ramuan ibu bersalin, become “postpartum treatment” - barah hati is a liver cancer,hydrocele
The gathered information is certainly “worthy of further investigation” -as the authors
write in their introduction. Some of the preconized preparations were already noted by
(Gimlette & Thomson) who have noted a “polypharmacy”, where the synergy between the
At the end of first volume of the book, there is a mention of the prayer to do while taking a
sample, holding it, standing in the direction of Mecca, reflecting -an attitude different from the
athleticism or peaking spirit to reach the summit and tourism of the Present Era, while not
In 1996, the Terengganu Hills were recognized as one of the biodiversity hotspots in
Peninsular Malaysia (Kiew, 1996). Its flora was estimated to comprise approximately 1500
vascular plant species. Exact figures were then not available as the Terengganu Hills had not
been the subject of any detailed botanical investigation since Corner mounted two expeditions
to Ulu Kemaman in 1932 and 1935 (Kiew, 1996). Except for the recent Bukit Bauk (Tan …
) and Gunung Pandang ( Kiew… ) These forests remained undercollected and poorly known
Meanwhile, the land was developed to provide work for the growing
population (settlements….) and the forest was exploited to answer the state needs.
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[Gunong Tebu an excursion under the rain in 2013; the Abdul Latif and forest
Figure 4.128 Map North of Terengganu with Lata Belatan and Lata Tembakah waterfalls (@
2015) scale 1: 260 000
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Figure 4.129 Sketch cross section of the land relief in northern Terengganu(draft) @
Surveys were made in the hills, along the following years, to appreciate the
changes and their consequences, together with other researchers and visitors.
Amongst the visitors were Frantz Limier, a French botanist from Madagascar, and
visitors from Argentina. The road as for Lata Belatan, up to Kampung Jabi where paddy fields
and palm oil spread in front of the Bukit Dara hills. A turn left leads towards Bukit Payong.
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Figure 4.130 a)Majestic views Landscape on the way: Padi, palm oil, hills
b) Inside the Besut valley
Beyond the belukar scrubs and secondary growth vegetation, two series of hills flank the
valley of the Besut River: the Gunung Tebu hills and the Pelagat hills. Driving in the direction
of the village of Keruak in the valley of the Besut River, the road turns on the right, becomes
narrower and runs through the shade of rubber plantations and orchards to reach the base of a
of Ramadan, of Pak Hussin, the knowledgeable local plant connaisseur. Walking around the
base, En.Yusof showed the cone habit of the Agathis borneensis and guided in the nursery.
More than 50 spp. of trees of timber value were there: 30 to 1m high saplings, grown in
polybags since about 2 years: The names were given in Malay, Pokok Rhu, Damar minyak
siput, Meranti rambai daun, kempas, Karas, Resak, Jambu laut, Halban, Meranti rambai daun,
Forester botanist style, En Yusof turned the leaves for the photography of the reverse side.
Figure 4.133 In the nursery: a) Meranti Tembaga b) Damar Hitam Siput c)Kelat
Syzygium species
“ Five logs or five lorries“ estimated En. Yusof, from the butresses to the crown, that is 18’
Fig 4.135 The name on the snake-like buttress roots is Shorea kunstlerii.
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“Perah (Elateriospermum tapos) “Mersawa Durian (Anisoptera laevis) “ Balau laut merah
Further on, there were other boards, giving didactic information: Have you seen how is made
plywood? will the future generations be able to see me as big as this? yellowish veneerand
plywood value is very high on the marke.The cylundric bole is prefered by plywood producers.
. Its fruit exploses when mature and is eaten by animals and men”.
There was an inversion of the names in the printing on the board, perhaps because of the
popularity of these species: Haji Samat would be usually the Prismatomeris glabra but as well
as two other botanical spp.; and Smilax myosotiflora is also called Ubi Jaga or Alek tembaga
or Dedawai.
Another board commented:“ These plants spp. are types of herbs that help enjoy a fulfilling
life. Physical health is the key to happiness in a family. “My house is my paradise”is the dream
Figure 4.136 a) A ginger looking like a terrestral orchidea: Scaphoclamys disticha: a new
species (YY Sam, 2018) b) Lasianthus species
4.4.1 Cascades
“After walking for some time until you reached this place, do you feel sweating, tired or
thirsty? No need to be proud of the mineral water you brought here. Don’t you have in front of
you a mineral water that you can drink, and as much as you want? But, you have to be careful:
Figure 4.137
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Frantz Limier filmed underwater fish dancing in the large pool at the end of the loop of the
forest trail. En. Yusof led back on the more steep path along the waterfall. A stop was made
to contemplate the various stages of the grand landscape: antediluvian granit boulders took all
nuances of gray and black while the powerful flow rushed with its innimitable sound towards
suddenly calm and clear pools where travelers from Argentina had fun, bathing and sharing a
Figure 4.138
The many medicinal plants that were shown to us 15 years ago by the foresters were not in
this Era found this time around, perhaps have they shyed away from the now too frequented
paths. However one will not miss to be impressed by height of trees, with life hidden in the
canopy far ahead above the ground; be witness of telluric forces in lata Belatan with large slabs
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barring the way, and the multidirectional hill terrain that sometimes misleads travellers on their
The visitors were impressed by the beauty of the landscape for both places with the solid
texture of the rocks contrasting with the indefatigable water current and the fantasy of the ever
surrounding leaves, and the mystery of the water source and its choice of path. As trees growing
by the river sides rare protected by forest regulations, the landscape that frame the flow is
preserved and is even more diverse than inside the forest. The light helps the growth of more
species. Mosses land on granite, shrubs appear on the sands, and tree roots grasp the battered
After the ancient times when the forest was considered as a place of fear and dangers,
associated with the feeling of an inexhautible resource in land and space to explore and use.
Today, a mixture of modern attitudes have emerged from among the perceptions from the Past
Era: Awe and respect, the athletic desire for the conquest of oneself and of nature (“peaking”),
the enjoyment of a healthy escapade from the city,the desire of the knowledge (in botany,
Natural wealth, long considered as inextinguishable resource, is now the object of a carefull
attention, from the public and the Forest Departments. The remnants of wilderness are reduced,
encircled, following the Western model where tamed landscapes of fertile hills and vast plains
herald agricultural industry on land originally planted mainly for inhabitants food.
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Figure 4.139 Lorry spotted carrying timber from Terengganu (Facebook Khaidir Ahmad
20 May 2021).“The have a permit” explained the Terengganu Forest Department, as the
public had questioned, seeing this picture on the medias.
The approach has changed. The reverence is less spiritually oriented. The modern
exploitation is less direct and individual as with the hunters and former forest collectors in the
Past Era. It is now industrial and impersonnal with workers paid wages, or illegal, with
poachers, sometimes foreign. Yet, visitors in search of recreation, getting in touch with nature,
its majesty, its strength and its deep calm, find it. But as visitors, not as inhabitants.
[“Dan janganlah kamu melakukan kerosakan di muka dunia ini. Sesungguhnya Allah tidak suka kepada orang
yang berbuat kerosakan.” (Surah Al-Qasas, 77). (Used also by Dome Nikong in exergue of his photo graphy book
An introduction to the “Past Era” of what is now the “Greater Kenyir” is given in extracts
reports from early visits (1983 to 2002) through the eyes of an American botanist and this
researcher. These reports evoke the landscape and the flora along the Peres and Tersat rivers
among the many streams that enliven the views in the forest of the interior of the state, and are
The historical event that occurred -the creation of the lake- is remembered: why, where,
when, how. Seismic tremors, accidents, water-boats, tourism- then, in 1988: a new project:
build more dams, and people’s reaction in Terengganu. “Save our forests!”
These new dams were built in 2008, adding to a beautiful landscape of extreme sadness; but
Re-visit were made in the “Present Era”. Life is still there: Visit with JAS 2017, a French
Botanist 2018 (dyke, elephants), UMT (2021) and others… The lake becomes a natural
attraction through its fauna: Birds, tigers, bats, its pre-historical significance, through its flora
as well All that led to Lasir Geopark project and State Parks creation]
In the 70es or early 80es, looking out from a plane, a thick green carpet covered the North
eastern part of the Malay Peninsula, including the state of Terengganu. The uniformity belied
The forested hills referred to in this account are found in the central part of the West of the
state of Terengganu. They comprise the Ulu (upriver) Tembat and UluTerengganu forest
reserves and, in terms of districts: Ulu Terengganu, Jenagur, Ulu Telemong, and Tersat. The
sites described below- are now located around the Lake Kenyir. In the past, until 1985- the date
of the construction of the Dam on the Terengganu River near its Kenyir tributary-, these areas
were considered by Terengganu people as belonging to hutan, the jungle, a mysterious and
dangerous place where one needed ilmu or knowledge to be able to enter it.
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Figure 4.140 Ancient Map (UPEN 1975) of the “Ulu Trengganu” -an area that has now
become the “Greater Kenyir” in and around the Lake. [Redraw or get it again from UPEN
and Fig. modern map with places visited from 1983 to 2019].
Undaunted then were only the orang asli who lived there and had their own paths, and
hunters, -teachers and government officers, who entered for sport during the deer hunting
season, as well as various forest product collectors or poachers looking for medicinal plants,
(and monkeys and other marketable animals), or perhaps also, logging prospectors. Yet, along
the river banks of the Terenggan River that has its source in the South at Gunong Mandi Angin,
at 1460 m, and meet the Terengganu River in Kampong Pasir Berching, villages such as
Kampong Petang, Kampong Jelatang, Kampong Melaka, were established. Further, now on the
most Western edge of the lake, near Bukit Raung, were Kampong Belimbing and Kampong
Padang Reyet along Sungai Ketiar that flowed from the North. These streams and villages are
These forests are nowadays reachable, on the northern side, by the road from Kuala Berang
to Aring, which has been built on the northern periphery of the lake, or by boat. The sites that
were visited from 1983 to 2018 are indicated on the map Fig…
Figure 4.141 The Kenyir Lake with the location the visited sites from 1983 to 2019
The following reports are based on reports and field notes that recall the landscapes features
as well as the flora as these areas were visited, along the years in the past and present eras,
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during expeditions together with foreign and local researchers, as well as travelling visitors
i) Sekayu waterfall
Back in May 1983, Sekayu forest was little known outside of Terengganu. It is a multi-level
scenic series of rapids and waterfalls, located at 16 km from the historical small town of Kuala
Berang (probably the “Foloan” of Chinese chronicles) and at about two kilometres from the
The around 2 meters deep and 20 meters large pool at the foot of the falls used to be a place
for “mandi serum” – a ritual recovery shower after an unfortunate event. There also, annually,
after the Ramadan that forbids bathing in the sea or in the rivers less water would enter the
body of the fasting person, villagers would come and enjoy a swim in the many pools along
The hills on the banks of the large stream are -in places, steep and rocky. Dipterocarp trees
form a majestic wall on both sides of the water. American botanist from Hawai Botanical
“From near the village of Sekayu, a blue mantle of native forest stretched away seventy
miles westward, a trail led from the end of the road through the forest edge to a white rushing
stream that in its descent formed clear cold pools delightful to swim in, and on whose surface
was reflected one of the most beautiful jungles of the world, the dipterocarps woodland of South
East Asia”.
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Upon the hill, on the left side of the river, former logging tracks climb the slopes amongst
re-growth of thick ferns and tall gingers, with sometimes broken stems and large droppings on
“We shared our findings -more the pleasure of our discovery-( I quote in inverted comas
some of Lynwood enthusiastic descriptions below)- and it was sometimes difficult to tell whose
work belonged to whom and anyway it did not seem to matter since our respective studies had
Both visitors were beginners -Lynwood for Malaysian forests, and this researcher for
botanical names- and fertile samples were not always available. Yet, our tentative
identifications were later confirmed at Forest Research Institute of Malaysia -FRIM (Prof.
Gingers, the “Maritime East Asian gingers” were prominent on the elephant path on the
steep side of the stream. There were, native of the Peninsula, some of them edible as the Alpinia
javanica, (Lengkuas hutan or Tepus), some more than three meters tall like the Zingiber
spectabile, the flowers of which appears on red to pale coral pink cones; Zingiber gracile, its
small inflorescence growing separate from the stem contains a spicy smelling liquid; Zingiber
wrayi, a very beautiful species rare “too rare to be part of Malay ethno-medicine” commented
Lynwood, and, like other gingers, its seeds are a favorite of the ants; Costus speciosus,
(setawar), that has its elegant stem curls carry large red and white flowers and that are very
often found in gardens, as well as Hellenia globosa -Setawar hutan with delicate flowers.
Other beautiful ornamental species abounded: the family of the Dilleniaceae, Dillenia
grandifolia -Simpoh “one of the largest species of the lowland Malaysian forest”, “the
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buttresses become stilts roots”. With the large blades of the leaves, the yellow flowers without
Earlier, on the road to Sekayu had been seen Dillenia suffructicosa -Simpoh air and
Tetracera indica- Mempelas -a sandpaper at hand- the “woody scrambler draws little attention
because it is so common” wrote Lynwood-. Water is contained in the larger species of the
genus. “The flowers are of exquisite form and the feathery red arils in which the black seed rest
are equally so. One of the pleasing sights in the villages”. [(Pic Duyung 2016!)]
Annonaceae shrubs, climbers and trees, were frequent with their distinctive leave nervures
and often thick and fragrant bark such as the Alphonsea elliptica -Pisang pisang “banana
banana” meaning in vernacular botany, that the fruit looks like small bananas but are not them.
Dipterocarpaceae -some of them critically endangered (according to the IUCN) for which
the tropical rain forests are famous, were well represented: majestic giants, with straight boles
branching high, various shapes of crowns, in domes, in tall spindles or some spreading wide
but avoiding to touch other tree crowns (like Driobalanops aromatica, Kapur -the camphor
tree), creating an attractively delineated canopy. Their seeds were found on the ground:
Dipterocarpus costulatus -Keruing with red fruits, that oozes a useful resin (Minyak keruing.);
Dipterocarpus kunstleri, its fruit prominently ridged with long wings; Shorea curtisii -Red
meranti, with a dark red wood suitable for furniture, construction, veneer. Big ants eat the seed.
There were also Shorea singkawang that has high quality fat; Shorea pauciflora -Meranti- as
well “more durable in the soil than most” and Shorea foxworthyi -Balau, that ‘has large
Other fruit were edible: the nuts of Castanopsis inermis (Fagaceae), -Berangan, roasted or
boiled like chestnuts (‘need a highly fertile” soil so, suitable for agriculture wrote Soepadmo,
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Flora Malesiana 1972). In the same family, were seen: Castanopsis megacarpa -Kertaktangga
Going back down closer to the stream, Gesneriaceae were growing: Didissandra serratifolia
-Tarom hutan, with lavender coloured flowers, and, amongst the mossy rocks Didymocarpus
shrub, peculiar two meter tall clusters of green and blackish-blue fruit grew in one whorl
halfway down the stem and in another larger one at ground level”.
Among the green cover of palms and ferns of all sizes, some shrubs were noticeable because
of the striking colors of their fruit such as the frequent Rubiaceaee Cephaelis (syn. Chassalia)
griffithii, -Beberas, a woodland shrub with large glossy leaves, small waxy and white flowers,
and Lasianthus maingayi, -Sekentut “startling blue fruit” used in after-delivery decoctions.
Altogether, the harvest was of 36 species, some of them endemic to Malaysia. Close by the
entrance of the place, was a building housing a small forest museum hall with medicinal roots
The forest then was untouched. Later, during other trips, it was noted that the “Hutan Lipur”
or “Amenity Forest” was doted of concrete stairs and resting platforms [1989]. The agricultural
Department of Terengganu developed a fruit trees orchard and gathered information on the
medicinal species. An inventory of 150 species was made for the arboretum project of
University Science Malaysia in Pulau Penang, [from their own sources and surveys made along
In 1985, a dramatic event happened that changed the face of the state of Terengganu: The
inundation 260 km2 of land. Energy was needed for a developing country such as Malaysia.
In1980, the National Electricity Board had chosen the Tembeling river in Pahang tobuild a 500
MW producing dam in the -then gazetted- Taman Negara. Ecologists, NGOs, and the -then-
Vice Prime Minister Musa Hitam, opposed the project. An alternative site was proposed in
Figure 4.142 Map of Terengganu, with Kenyir Lake among the hills and the former rivers
showing the proportions of the size of the lake among the hilly areas
The site chosen was above the village of Jenagor, a place that was then a door to the
wilderness, a jungle where only hunters, medicinal plants and gaharu collectors would go and
where aborigenes of the Semoq Beri and Bateq groups lived. Still, there were as well a few
villages set along the tributaries of the Terengganu River. The relief was made of undulating
hills with summits ranging up mainly from 700 to 1400m in height, from where many streams
flew on sometimes steep terrain over granitic large boulders, with some picturesque magmatic
intrusions, rapids and sandy areas on the wider rivers. Besides Leguminosae and Dipterocarps
many other timber species used to be logged in the flatter areas, following SMS rules
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(North and South) and “Hutan Kekal Hulu Terengganu” (”Permanent Forest Reserves”).
Feasibility studies were approved by the State government and, in 1985, the dam
construction started.
A totally transformed landscape appeared where water replaced trees and the forests around
the bank largest rivers - the Terengganu mati - on the northern side, and the Terengganu on the
southern side -. The land has become a gigantic water body, a large spider with watery arms
overfilling the former tributaries of the larger rivers. In the middle, stood a vast island
The Kenyir Dam, Peninsular Malaysia’s largest rock-fill dam, is underlain by granite and is
155 m in height. Construction began in 1978, was completed in 1985 and officiated in 1987.
The lake covers an area of 370 sq. km. The impounding of the dam caused tremors. The
ranging from 2.5 to 4.6. The tremors were felt at a distance of more than 50 km. (Cik Noorliza
Lat 2002) The area now has been again aseismic, except for a few tremors in 2015
There were animal rescues, with elephants carried on rafts to the land towards the Taman
Negara, timber salvage with divers sometimes risking their life. The flora was not mentioned.
A group of orang asli, lost because of the inundated paths, was rescued by helicopter.
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Figure 4.143 Elephants were shot with calming drugs) to allow them to be pulled on the
rafts (Picture from the Kenyir official pamphlet).
project
In 1988. it was learned that the Department of National Energy (TNB) planned to add more
Association- at the request of the Chief Minister of the State to evaluate the assets that would
be inundated if another hydroelectric dam was built, as well as to prepare arguments against
of the people in Terengganu from various background and for various reasons, prepared to
oppose an eventual new dam project somewhere in the forests of the state.
Some of the following report is taken from the contents of a two-part article written by this
researcher, who had joined the expedition in 1987. (Utusan Malaysia, 24/2/88 and sq.),
The 43 participants strong “evaluation expedition” “In defense of the integrity of our
mountains” included individual people from Terengganu and government officers from the
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Wildlife, Forest and Environment Departments. There was Ali Mamat, the organizer, and the
head of Bernama news agency, as well as the poet Marzuki Ali, the painter Chang Fee Ming,
and a traditional practitioner, former penghulu Haji Abu Kassim. Were covered the areas
around three waterfalls and, further up around the rivers: Lata Terap, LataTembat waterfalls
The landscape views were diverse, changing with the soils, the canopy height, the humidity,
the sun exposure. A few stinkhorn mushrooms with their lace petticoat, reddish Nepenthes
grew in a cold and wet area, and, where the sun went through the canopy, two different species
of terrestrial orchids appeared among round rocks. There were Kacip Fatimah with their red
fruit and fresh water from Gnetum and Tetracera lianas. Some participants marveled at the blue
flowers of the modest roadside Siak -Dianella ensifolia, while on the slopes, beyond the banks
of the Tembat River, footprints of tapir, bears, leopards, deer and mouse-deer were observed.
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In Sungai Petuang area, the Mergastua -Wild Life Department- rangers discovered footprints
of a badak sumbu -Sumatra rhinoceros, believed near extinct in Malaysia, - which could make
the number of rhinoceros reach seven individuals in the Terengganu hills at the time.
45 Plant species were collected, verified with Tok penghulu. A consensus was found in
vernacular names and indications. Among 43 species collected or noted, 23 are known
traditional medicine, 11 have attracted the interest of phyto-chemists, 5 have food value while
10 have ornamental value. Two are endemic to Malaysia. And perhaps to this area of
Terengganu.
The inventory with value or use of the plant species was sent to the Chief Minister of the
State, together with the rest of the biodiversity evaluation documents (cf. Appendix A,Specific)
The expedition was exceptional, not only by the encountered biological diversity, but also
by that of its participants, their different interests, and specialities. Were they assigned by their
department or were they simply concerned people, they listened to the poet Marzuki Ali as he
Trusted to us by God
harmed
of development
Indeed, oh God.
(This poem and the painting can be found in a bilingual book published by the Dewan Bahasa
dan Pustaka entitled Puisi Duyung Puisi Rakyat, Marzuki Ali et al. ,1990, re-edited in 2000).
However, the dams were built, later, in 2008-2011. For many years, sadness dominated the
landscape over the waters of the whole Lake Kenyir. Black branches were like skeletons
gesturing in a last request for help. Danger was there as well. Visitors had to avoid the emerging
trunk of dead trees that sometimes, fell dangerously close to their motorboats. In dry seasons,
the level of the water went down, leaving, below the still forested areas, views of the earth
Efforts were made to animate the place. Resorts with timber chalets were built, traditional
sailing crafts were commissioned from the reputed Duyong boat builders. Houseboats were
introduced. The lake became alive, gradually, found its vocation as a door to nature for tourism,
sports, and scientific research. [and -later, in 2019- would start playing a role in Forest
In 1998 Pr. Karim was the head of a phytochemistry laboratory at the then “University
Samudra” in Terengganu. This researcher joined with his students and other university
personnel, in the expedition he led, first experiencing the comfort of a hotel near Pengalan
Gawi, then living on a houseboat, sailing over to Lasir waterfall and climbing upon the hills
The purpose was to find materials for the phyto-chemistry laboratory: plant species with
essential volatile oils and few alcaloids: eugenol, citron, safrol, sufrol aldehyde, cineol; the
On the road towards Sungai Gawi, common -yet attractive, a bird, Merbah -yellow vented
bulbul, the usual small tree simpoh gajah (Dillenia species) and penaga lilin (Callophylum
At Saok waterfall and stream: Etlingera elatior Kantan bunga merah Etlingera coccineaor,
Globba species
More frequent even Hujan panas Glochidion species (extract made), Croton, and
Medan a fragrant Lauracea with slender roots, an Annonaceae, some Chassalia chartacea,
Were collected in sufficient quantity for the oil laboratory and to be used by the students:
Serai, Pijat, Kantan, Hujang panas, two Teja species, the bark of a Goniothalamus and a
jantan and Parameria laevigata (an after-delivery constrictor) Akar serapat puteh.
Trips made in the Present Era, gave the opportunity to visit the “new” Lake Kenyir, to
observe the landscapes, the flora, and see the changes occurred and how the people in
Terengganu reacted to and used the giant transformation of the forest land.
One of these visits was, in November 2016, a reconnaissance with the Director of the
Department of the Environment to the Lake Kenyir and to smaller recent dams. The
Participants were Puan Muhibbah Selamat (Department of the Environment DOE), and her
staff, [En. Mohd Nazim who took the pictures, En. Rosidi Ismail,] and this researcher.
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The objective was of a brief reconnaissance of the Northern part of the Kenyir Lake, along
the road 185, from Kuala Terengganu to the Kelantanese border, from the points of view of the
Location
Figure4.146: Map of the area, with rivers and new dam reservoirs indicated in the square.
Taking the road toward Sungai Tong, after the few village houses and shops of the Belara
district, came less inhabited areas, with a quarry extracting earth and rocks. Further, on the
right side, were rubber plantations. The trees were slim, replacing the secondary forest by the
more profitable Hevea timber that can be used for furniture making. On the left side, was a blue
zinc fence, about two kilometre-long. Through some openings shone the glitter of the plastics
from a massive refuse disposal field. That was followed by a TDM palm oil plantation. After
a crossroad, driving in the direction of Kenyir, the landscape was changing, with in the
background, various hills, their summit crowned by thin clouds, and soon, closer to the road,
came green walls lined with tall trunks of many shapes and nuances of the Hulu Telemong
Forest Reserve.
The road entered in a forest terrain where Bangladesh workers mended landslides caused by
recent heavy rains. The road took turns and, at some of them, beautiful views could be enjoyed,
such as the lake waters framed by trees with high crowns, palms like Areca catechu,
Macaranga, Melastomacea species with pioneers and usual climbers such as Tetracera and
Vitis species. A carpet of healthy ferns hid the ground on the steep slopes of the banks of the
lake.
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Figure 4.149 Kenyir Lake, one of the glimpses from the road
Down on the right side of a narrow bridge linking two islands, a quiet “resort”, perhaps for
fishing amateurs was set by the water. Going up, just before the bridge, was a signboard:
“Hutan Simpanan Kekal Tembat”- “Tembat Permanent Forest”. One broken logging road was
Figure 4.150 Another arm of the lake seen Figure 4.151 Tembat Permanent Forest
from a bridge Reserve area
The entrance of the Puah Dam Tenaga National operations was closed by a large gate. After
verification of identities, even though with no prior appointment, it was allowed to enter to the
main water intake where the flow from the reservoir was directed to an underground tunnel.
There, it activated turbines that would generate electricity. The TNB-the National Electricity
Board personnel told about the elephants -about ten of them, that lived in the surroundings,
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eating wild bananas. One baby elephant was even born there. Clouds and hills were reflected
on the surface of the new lake reservoir which is higher in altitude than “Kenyir 1”
Figure 4.152 General layout of the Hulu Terengganu Hydroelectric project (Choy and
Hanson 2016)
Figure 4.152 Intake of the Puah dam Figure 4.153 Spillway towards the
towards the turbines Terengganu River
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Figure 4.154 156 mammals were removed Figure 4.155 Many species of animals were
from the Tembat dam impoundment area found and saved. The Colugo is number 1
on the fourth line from the left
On the summit of a neighbouring hill, the Wildlife Rescue station opened their doors. Their
teams had monitored and rescued mammals, snakes, and fish. Together with personnel from
the University Kebangsaan Malaysia, they had made posters describing their work during the
construction of the dam and during the impoundment. Photographs of the rescued animals
were exhibited: Besides elephants, there were as well black leopards, tapirs as pictured on
their boards.
They had caught one colugo “flying lemur” or tupai terbang. The round-eyed small
mammal found in South East Asia, who does not fly but glides between the trees of the
canopy. The animals as well as a quantity of fish were later released in the areas upstream of
the dam, around Sungai Duka in the North West of the Puah dam, toward the Kelantanese
border.
The dam is called Puah Dam after a tributary of the Terengganu River that used to flow
there. It was easy to see that a lot of clear felling had to be done to ensure the stability of the
Figure 4.156 View over the Puah reservoir Figure 4.157 The visitors in front of the
There had been strong rumours of abusive deforestation. According to a letter from Dato’
Dr. Dionysius Sharma, a total of 12.000 ha had been logged instead of the 6.0130 ha needed to
prevent the loss of timber in the inundated rivers. Furthermore: “A survey conducted as part of
the DEIA has revealed evidence of the presence of the elusive Sumatran rhinoceros within the
Tembat Forest Reserve, and, as recently as August 2008, a survey by the Department of
Wildlife and National Parks’ Sumatran Rhinoceros Task Force revealed evidence such as
Unfortunately, the nearest logging road toward the upstream mountains was closed by a
light barrier and a ditch covered with fragile-looking planks. Another logging road was found
further on the way back, towards a water tank station. It was in bad condition. JAS stout vehicle
was engaged on the slippery lorry road and passed deep burrows, but lack of time, the
exploration had to stop there. Furthermore, permission should be obtained from the Forest
On the elevated monticules created on both sides in the clay soil of the logging road, grew
the papery herb “Nyor lembah” (Molineria latifolia). The -medicinal species had been
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researched for its sweet fruit the overwhelming taste of which lasts for about half an hour after
it has been taken, seemingly imparting sweetness to acid or bland drinks (Nakajima and al.,
2012). Close-by, were a few of the two-winged nuts of a Dipterocarp. P.Muhibbah -who hails
from Johore where dipterocarps are less common- marvelled at the spinning flights of the
natural shuttlecocks.
The landscape on the road is formed by chains of hills covered by primary forests bordering
large water bodies that used to be rivers. With its small population of Semoq Beri orang asli,
the summit of Gunung Lawit (1519 m) in the North, the dynosaur fossil tooth found on Gunung
Gagau (1375) at the border junction of Kelantan, Terengganu and Pahang, and the -now made
accessible- diversity of its prehistoric forests around it, the Kenyir Lake area has lots to offer
to visitors and researchers. Indeed, on the way to the top of a hill -where SATU the Terengganu
water company has a few buildings and a water tank, a research centre for the UMT is being
built.
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The last stopover for that visit was for the Beweh waterfall. Large grey boulders, some
covered with mosses of many nuances of green, adorn steep slopes from where fall two streams
of white water. Herbs like the Setawar and Jangut baung, both decorative and reputed as
Botanics
A few plants species were encountered in the vicinity of the road. The range went from
common- nevertheless elegant- pioneer species such as: Dillenia sufructucosa (Simpoh aier),
Leea indica (Memali), Donax canniformis (Bemban), Uncaria tomentosa (Kait kait),
elatior (Bunga kantan), Typhonium flagatifolium (Keladi tikus) and to more recluse forest
dwellers: Piper porphyrophyllum (Sireh harimau), Smilax myosotiflora (ubi jaga,) Molineria
latifolia (nyor lembah), Tacca integrifolia (Jangut baung), Dipterocarpus fragilis (Keruing
kipas), Milettia sericea (pokok tulang daeng) and Notaphoebe umbelliflora, (medang) -The
three last mentioned having been kindly identified by En.Shamsul from the Training division
During a five-days multidisciplinary expedition made long ago (1985) at the request of the
then Menteri Besar Wan Moktar Wan Ahmad, around Sungai Tembat and Sungai Petuang, 43
spp. of -mostly medicinal- plants had already then been spotted by a traditional practitioner and
this researcher. Traces of elephants, Panthera tigris -the Malayan tiger- and old footprints of
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the rare Badak sumbu, Sumatran Rhinoceros, were found by the Pejabat Perlihitan personnel
(Utusan Melayu 24-25 /2/1988). Since, here scientific expeditions have been conducted in
Sungai Saok and Sungai Lasir, including in 1998 by phyto-chemists from the then Samudra
Universiti (now UMT). In 2010, 509 plant spp. were listed in a gathering of three botanical
inventories for Gunung Padang in the South of the Kenyir lake (FRIM, R. Kiew, Ummul-
Nazrah, Malaysian Nature Journal, vol 63, No 4.). In 2012, two new taxa of Globba were
discovered in the Tembat Forest Reserve: Globba tembatensis Y.Y. Sam & Julius and Globba
From this short reconnaissance in a part of the Kenyir Lake area, it appears that in 2016,
many agencies and government departments were concerned and active in and around the lake.
[Yet, it would probably take some time before the place became a full-fledged eco-tourist
destination or… find its true benefit for the people of Terengganu who have lost so much of
their land. Further exploration is still needed to learn even more how to preserve and use the
On the 20th of August 2017, a few officials and lecturers from the University Malaysia
Terengganu gathered at the already active but with construction still in progress- Kenyir
University Malaysia Terengganu Research station. A visit from the Minister of Education was
expected. [Taking the opportunity to have another look at the floral evolution around the lake,
The landscape on the road towards the Northern access to Kenyir was of village houses and
fruit -Artocarpus, Mangoes, and Lagerstroemia and Cassia ornamental trees. A hill was cut for
construction of the highway to Kota Bahru. Going through Lingai, over sungai Ikan -a muddy
-at the time- river. Along the way, quarries operations were active on hills of red earth and grey
On the approaches of the Kenyir Lake, secondary growth covers the roadsides in areas
deforested for various projects and large concrete buildings that were simultaneously
progressing particularly around the main entrance to the lake. In the background though, the
usual beautiful coat of emerging palms, Dipterocarps, and other rain forest species wrapped the
On top of a hill at the back of the Station (which is built in Terengganu neo-vernacular style),
was a lone Orania sylvicola -ibul palm tree, known to have a poisonous fruit. En, Sohok,who is
the guard of the Centre, confirmed: “The smoke of the dry fruit as a pukau tool,. The person
can be carried like that” he gestured:” sleeping, straight on extended arms”. The effect lasts
about one hour. Syed Abdullah a healer from Kampong…(Belara) had mentioned it in 2002
On the ground, were noted: A Smilax with gigantic leaves (15 x25 cm) compared to the
stem of this climber (½ cm) Smilax cf perfoliata (or Smilax. bracteata but leaves not so large,
Polygonum (Persicaria syn.) sinensis or paniculatum. It is a minyak angin herb that contains
a volatile oil in the root smell like mint and is common in “waste areas” in Malaysia.
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Climbing high, “sought after by the Raja Brooke butterfly” said En. Sohok was the well
Sapium Baccatum -Ludai “mouse deer rubber tree”, used by the hunters to lure mouse deers
Looking like a smaller Momordica charantia, with Ipomea spear shaped leaves and a
smaller, fruit was timun tikus another Cucurbitaceae, Zehneria indica, “good for stomach
diseases”.
Seen as well were a Beluru vine -Entada phaseolides, and a tall Keruing -Dipterocarpus
crinitus.
Knowledge:
En. Sohok the caretaker of the place and En, Wak -an experimented lab technician
volunteered information. En, Sohok since long has guided travellers in the forest. His
comments bear on the relationship between the plant species and their use by men and animals,
particularly for the hunters, fishermen and people living in the forest or on its fringes, like
Sahok’s own family. The names he gives bear the mark of practical or visual considerations:
Telinga gajah, ( Macaranga), Buaya sakit kulit (sharp bark of a Dipterocarp), so do his remarks
on the trees uses: “for wrapping tapai” delicacies, or “for catching animals”, or those that
“sosek” and those that harbour ghosts of fire when the atmosphere is electric. (Methane from
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organic waste explained Dr. Jarina Jani). Sahok insisted that he does not allow anybody to take
En, Wak, a veteran lab technician, on the other hand, knew well the scientific names of the
species. He remembered Pr. Karim the dedicated phyto-chemist at the University Samudra
(UMT) when we went together, back in 1996 in Kenyir to find aromatic species.
Were exhibited at the Research Centre the harvests from a group of students: butterflies,
bats in alcohol. There were as well recent books on Kenyir authored by UMT researchers,
including those contributed to by [“Mr.T “ or] Dato’ Dr. Tajuddin-, who. as he explained,
marveled at the changing shapes of the bats over the millenaries during their travels, after the
sinking of the Sunda Shelf, (but does not concludes to a Darwinien systematic view of all
species evolution). Dr. Tajuddin is a proponent of the “Kenyir Geopark” that would protect
On the way back, were noticed, on lorries, unstable looking stacked of timber cut in planks,
by the road side, a long-established sawmill in full swing, and three lorries loaded withlogs of
various diameter.
Kenyir Present Era: re-visit with botanist Frantz Limier 8in May 2018
[Report on a re-visit with botanist FL along the Petuang River and on the road to Aring,
Frantz Limier, botanist, has taken many of the photographs and Rohani Longuet]. Present Era
observations were done to compare with the situation 25 years ago. A preceding visit with JAS
(November 2017) had been first made, following the then recently built road along the northern
bank of Lake Kenyir and driving up to the new dams on the Puah and Tembat Rivers. Another
secondsurvey was decided towards the Petuang and Tembat riverbanks, taking advantage of
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the new road and ancient paths. This short survey would follow the path of the previous visits:
mainly with “Kawat” Journalist Association (1988), University Samudra (1992), made by boat,
Access:
“We took the main road from Kuala Terengganu toward north, passed by a few villages,
noted again the long open air waste disposal, then, after a turn to the north east, the black smoke
of a palm oil processing factory, and the palm oil plantation with a paradoxical forest-friendly
warning.
Figure 4.159 Palm oil processing factory Figure 4.160 Forest fauna-friendly TDM
board
The beginning of the lake area was signaled by ferns growing on the slopes on the roadsides
and, in the background, the vertical canopies of hills summits with crowns of many shapes and
colours. A furry animal (-a civet?) was spread, dead, in the middle of the road.
The JPEM official map published in 2014 shows paths following the same routes as the ones
published in 2001. Wishing to arrive directly at the spots visited in 1988, the plan was to drive
along the road to the spot where the Petuang and Tembat Rivers flow into the lake. There, we
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would follow the marked paths up to the botanizing incursions made long ago along the
Petuang and Tembat rivers that are both coming down from the hills further North. The later
Tembat river had appeared, back in 1988, to be a sungai batu -a rocky stream, full of rapids
and shallow waters running from the Bukit Susu Dara (1452 ft). The other, the Petuang River
that flows from the area of Gunong Lawit (1518 ft) is also known for her Jeram Harimau -the
“tiger” rapids-, the roaring of which follows the traveler, before he meets with the real Panthera
tigris.
Figure 4.161 Lake Kenyir, 2001: Paths in Figure 4.162 Lake Kenyir 2014 The new
the Hulu Telemong and Hutan Sinpan road is indicated. The paths are still shown
Kekal Tembat are shown
Fig. Lake Kenyir, 2001: Paths in the Hulu Telemong and Hutan Sinpan Kekal Tembat are
shown Fig. Lake Kenyir 2014 The new road is indicated. The paths are still shown
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Just before a bridge that offered views both ways over the water of the inundated Petuang
River, a white board signaled an “AKS” Resort, and, close by another board that signaled the
“Tembat Permanent Forest Reserve”, a small earth road went down towards the banks of the
lake.
Figure 4.163 Permanent forest Figure 4.164 Resort Figure 4.165 Buttresses
and boulders
The resort was not in operation. The muddy earth road went further to a jetty from where
another resort could be reached “Suria”, said a young man who was fishing sitting close to by
a motorboat, “You could also be brought by boat to the “Musang Resort.” There are no paths
following the river, nor bridges over it”. We took to the hill. An elephant trail started on the
very side of the steep muddy bank. It went through a bamboo grove and up along a ridge that
from the maps indication led to Gunung Bungsu (857m). A streamlet ran amongst mossy
boulders. There were ferns, pipers, and gingers under the shade of the far up crowns of a few
trees withs large buttressed. We heard noises of broken bamboos or small branches and the
breathing of some creature. Back to the lake, as we reached to another jetty. The purple
flowering of -perhaps planted, Lagerstroemia speciosa, and the symmetric traces of climbers
on three trunks added some interest to the melancholic loneliness of the banks landscape.
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Close by, witnesses from the past layer of “emerging” trees: still part of the landscape, sadly
true to their name, they have resisted complete destruction for more than thirty years (1987-
2018) .
macrocarpa
A few boats were moored near a broken board: “m Harimau” perhaps the Jeram Harimau
rapids mentioned in the 1988 Utusan Malaysia article. Back on the path, towards the main road,
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yellow butterflies crowed over a small pond, a stout Bauhinia exhibited its wooden -looking-
large seeds, not far from a showy Costus and a gigantic ginger. We then drove West in direction
of the new dams and of their gate which was closed to the public. We turned back, stopped as
we saw a langur or leaf monkey who was eating… leaves, and followed another small road on
our right. Elephant dungs were on the ground, with a few Psilocybe mushrooms sprouting out
of it
Figure 4.170
Trackmen working by the side of the road asked if we were looking for the ketum (Mitragyna
speciosa) of ill repute. Medicinal species they said, are collected by the orang asli. It is a source
of revenue for them. Heading back, looking on the left side of the road to find again a possible
dyke formation previously noted, we saw a wall of red and black exploded rock.[ a dyke part
Leaving the lake area, back to civilization, we could not but notice the busy looks of the
Bukit Jong Quarry and, further on, the good provision of sawn logs at the sawmills.
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It had seemed that the creation of the Kenyir Lake would have been a way to render more
accessible to the public a primary forest left after the filling of the reservoir. This brief visit
showed that, even with a road surrounding the lake , boats are now the way, and that what can
be reached is the low summits of mountain forests, now that the sedimentary soils of the river
valleys and their flora are gone, leaving a few pathetic dark brown reminders.
It will be of interest to go again up the Petuang and Tembat Rivers, not only to check on the
species remaining from the past, but also to check on the moves of the river banks and the
Flora
Below is a list of some of the plant species seen, photographied or collected on the outskirts
of the lake. These plants remind of those from the logged area in Tersat, South of the lake.
Together with F Limier and foreign students in sociology, to review the evolution of the
development efforts:
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On the Southern side of the lake, the strong Lasir river stream that fell on large rocks , with
banks of various heights, had been doted with various amenities: a suspended bridge led to a
concrete building.
Figure 4.177 Education, scientific (Board Figure 4.178 “The green” is back, mirrored
Lasir)
Site 6: “the forest was home” -→“The forest was home” and: “Now it is my
Two groups of Orang Asli, -the Bateq and the Semoq Beri, live in Terengganu. In fact, as
they are nomad, they can as well be found in Pahang and in Kelantan… The forest where they
live has been introduced in the previous chapters, with its 250 million years old flora and fauna,
its diversity, and its -now more understood- fragility. The following is an account of visits to
their places in the past (1980ties) and in more recent times (2014-2019).
The orang asli of the Bateq tribe, the most ancient people in the Malay Peninsula, whose
existence is evaluated to from 50 000 to 25 000 years ago (Colin Nicholas, 2004) are found
usually in the forests of Perak, Pahang, Terengganu and Kelantan as well as in Patani (Hala in
Thailand). Known as hunters and collectors, they have been described by anthropologists and
more recently, by travelers and tourists, because of their original culture and way of life.
Researchers from Shebesta (1952) to Endicott (1979) and Lye Tuck Po (2004) have captured
not only their survival methods but the philosophy of life of their community, and their
relationship with surrounding nature. They share everything, as it is difficult to store much in
the forest and, with their nomadic way of life, “they take only what they need Salasiah Che
Lah, 2014). De facto guardians of a philosophy that has little to do with modern global political
and financial systems, today, they represent a social model that has survived in its original form
The Bateq people from Terengganu are those that have used to set their temporary camps or
hayak in the forested area along the Lagos and Sayap streams in that flow towards the Besut
river from the slopes of Bukit Kambing and Bukit ( ) hills in the state. These Bateq Deq as
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they call themselves are used to move as well in Kelantan towards Kuala Koh, and in Pahang
along the Lebir River. Following the national policy of integration in 1960 and 1990, they were
appointed places to settle in Besut upriver. Meanwhile they, like the state authorities and the
indigenous peoples or aborigines in many other countries, battle with the uncertainty of varying
4.6.1.2 Kuala Sayap, an Orang Asli village about 10 km from Kuala Keruak
First visits with molecules hunters, doctors in Pharmacy such as Drs Daniel and Muriel
Back in 1983, hearing often from the Malay villagers that the Orand Asli were the ones to
meet if I needed to send bigger quantities of medicinal material to the SREP (Societe de
approach them and enter the domain of the OA people in Terengganu. I was warned that the
orang asli were “very shy” and would run away in the forest if I came with a team of researchers
recognition trip. In Kampong Buluh, we spend a night in the house of a ustaz, a religious
responsible person, who called Enche Mat, a man well acquainted with the Bateq people of
Kuala Sayap. Kuala Sayap being an orang asli settlement village set close by the Lagos stream,
a tributary of the Besut river that flows among the forested hills of the north western part of the
Figure 4.180 Location of the Orang Asli (Bateq) in Kuala Sayap on the Sungai Lagos/Ruar
Figure 4.181 Field location: Sungai Lagos Ulu Besut and Sungai Berua (Semoq Beri) on the
lake Kenyir
document
[Stays in the orang asli area. Visits to the forests and lean-to camps 1984,1986,1990.
“Leaving the last Malay village of Keruak, we followed a former large logging track covered
in places with pinkish mud. Encik Mat -who having an orchard close by is familiar with the
Bateq people of the area- signaled in front of us, a thin, dark-colored man who carried a long
feather duster on his shoulder: “It is Nilam the chief of the village. “He went in the grocery
shop to buy some rice”. Nilam wore large and short pants and rubber shoes.
After ½ hour walk we arrived at a “new village” made of two rows of about twelve small
timber houses, bordering the earth road. The houses were simple, on 4ft high stilts like the one
used in Malay pioneer settlements, with horizontally laid short planks of the “tindeh kasih
overlapping style. There was a verandah, a sleeping room, a common room, and a kitchen area.
The stove used minyak gas as in the Malay villages of that time. Abdullah, our Bateq translator
cum guide, was informed of our arrival. He was around twenty-year old, about 1m 50 tall,
sturdy, and well dressed. We stayed in one of the houses reserved for the JOAC (Orang Asli
The next morning Abdullah led us up to a logged forest hill to look for medicinal plant
species. Quiet and invisible to us from the path, a woman had been digging roots with a stick.
“Here she is. This is Mak Timun, the Tok bidang -the midwife”-said Abdullah. I explained our
purpose: acquire samples of medicinal species with the related knowledge for possible future
collections.
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Figure 4.182 First interview with Mak Figure 4.183 Encounter with Nilam the
Timun “ketua kampong ”(on the extreme right)
On our way back later, we were met by Nilam (cf. fig 2, the man on the extreme right) and
a companion with a fair skin, possibly from a Chinese or Thai ancestor-. was the ketua kampong
-village headman of the resettlement in kampong Kuala Sayap. That day, Nilam took at heart
to interview us. Our guides Abdullah -the afro-haired Batek diplomat and Hassan -our Malay
friend, explained our intentions. Both OA “officials” accompanied us back to the kampong.
The next day, we walked only about 20 minutes from the settlement to the hayak -the
temporary house or shelter of the orang asli, a hut made of palms and rattan, with a “floor” or
platform at about 2 feet from the ground. There were four of these gathered around two
fireplaces, and further down, towards a small river, another one with a fire as well, erected
there as if for more privacy. Mak Timun and Mak Janda only were present. “The others went
of roots of various colors and smells. There were as well a bamboo Jaws harp, a transistor radio
and some dry chandan (Aquilaria spp.) leaves “for smoking”. Mak Timun gave the Malay
names of the roots used around deliveries that she and her friends had gathered for us: Kerbau
jantan,(Shefflera ridleyi) pak punggah (cf Mat Kapur: Aralia spp) and “ibu anak
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gadis”(perhaps Cinnmomum parthenoxilon. There was as well a contraceptive plant -the name
of which was taboo. During an ulterior visit, the name of kacang kacang was given which
would have been a Leguminosae looking species. Other roots, already known from Mak Kapur
Figure 4.184 Hayak, Chandan, roots and Figure 4.185 Bringing back
transistor samples, with Abdullah
We went back together to the “village” where we shared a fried rice prepared by our German
assistant -some of which the Bateq women packed to bring back and share with their group,
plus our payment and presents of kain batik hand printed cloth. While we thought our two
female informants had gone back home, they passed by our verandah, sporting hibiscus flowers
in the hair and bright smiles, showing their appreciation of our transactions, before returning
to the hayak.
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Figure 4.186 Stop over at the house of a Malay ‘bomoh’ near a forest edge orchard. Photo
souvenir: Pleasure of having been being brought together for the sake of research.
The same year, visits were made with a team from the University Malaya (Department of
Chemistry, JR Deverre and, later, Dr. JF Weber and the French CNRS Centre National de la
Recherche Scientifique.
Jean Robert Deverre performed tests on species similar to those previously found in other
parts of the Malaysian tropical forest -as well on the species recommended by Mak Timun-
Figure 4.187 Tracking alcaloids fresh from the forest in the Bateq “village”, Nilam came
looking, and had diner with us.
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Figure 4.188 The pharmacist was willing to experience tracking the acaloids in their habitat,
using the lean-to lab (cf.perhaps pic“lab” only in file) Fig. Field preliminary screenings:
a) in the Kuala Sayap Orang Asli village ; b) in the forest, a field lab, by the Lagos stream
Expeditions Rohani+ Deverre Sites: Ulu Besut 2 times: Alcaloids containing spp.:
Tabernaemontana corymbosa (syn) Evatamia hirta jelutong badak: and 7 new ones.
Sungai Lago + Encik Ismail and OA (Abdullah) 13.5 1984, Ulu Besut 10.9.84
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Alcaloids screening cooperation UM/ CNRS the targeted families for alcaloids were
Results:
First expedition: 14 spp. were collected in small quantities and screened using a portable
kit, so as to get immediate results on fresh samples (Cf methodology, field work).
Identifications verified ulteriorly at the University Herbarium was done to the species or only
to the genus as the available specimen were sterile. They were 6 Rubiaceae, of which the Ixora
(jejarum, pecah periuk) were the most positive ( 4 +) for alkaloids, (leaves, fresh and dry) as
A second expedition in the same area of Ulu Besut Forest reserve resulted in 7 species
screened by the same method. 2 of these, the Ervatamia hirta (Apocynaceae) was extremely
positive for fresh and dry leaves and for the fresh and dry bark (4+). The dry leaves and the
Among the screened shrubs were some reputed in the local materia medica such as Renellia
Evolution towards integration -1983: Islam, cemetery, Kinzir and rubber plantations
Just as a Malay village, Kuala Sayap had a cemetery, with earth monticules and some stones.
It was located at about 200 hundred meters from the habitations. On the way towards the
On the introduction of Islam, the religion followed by the Malays, Abdullah commented:”
Yes, we had to convert, but the ustaz -the religious teacher- told us that, before becoming
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Muslim, we believed in God already. Not all of us converted”. During one of our stays in their
house in Kuala Sayap, JHEOA officers came. They knew well their “wards” and commented
“Oh Semek ni is pregnant again”. There was no school then. Forest has been cleared to allow it
Not wanting to turn the people of Kuala Sayap in an object for study, but wishing to have a
two-way relationship with them, at the occasion of a short visit, I brought my three-month-old
son with us, to introduce JFF Weber. The Dr. Weber, from the University Malaya, also looked
for phyto-chemical active substances. The Bateq women had a look at the baby anak orang
puteh and to what food I prepared. Unfortunately, other activities kept me away the following
years.
Later, in 2010, I heard news from Kuala Sayap from a Bateq man who had worked in
Kuantan, and had just married my neighbor’s daughter in Pulau Duyong: He told that many
inhabitants had moved, joining the Semoq Beri. Social integration with the Malays villagers
In April 2014, Adam bin Nilam, sitting under the freshly built lean-to, remembers me and
his late father’s story –he himself was 6- about the visit of the perempuan orang puteh -the
European woman.
Re-visits: [ Evolution of the Bateq people and of their relationship with their natural
resources]
The settlement: from about 15 families living on and off in the first series of wooden houses
settlement in Kuala Sayap, 4 families remain. Two are working closely with the JHOA office.
Other inhabitants have joined the Kuala Koh larger group of Bateq people in Kelantan. Many
have passed away: “Tua, sakit jantung…”explained Adam. The houses are now made of
concrete. There is a surau, the cemetery tucked 200 meters away, and a vast communal hall
where we planned to stay at first. Adam invited us -a French ecologist and me- to his house for
the night. The ecologist slept in the salon or common room. Even though his Malay wife was
still in the pantang -the traditional Malay post-delivery taboo period, I was given her room by
Listening to Adam -the present ketua kampong- and Mustapha, a Bateq from Kuala Koh,
but married and living in Kuala Sayap- there seems to be, more than previously, an awareness
and a division between those who wish to remain in the forest with the old ways and beliefs
and the others who are ready to enter the gob (“outsiders”) world.
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Mustafa and Adam lead us to a patch of belukar by a stream where they built a lean-to,
showing the different ways to tie the roofs and demonstrating the fire lighting with a stick
As we drove through the new landscape of surrounding palm oil plantations, Adam showed
the beginning of a large “highway to Kenyir” started there on the upper reaches of the Sungei
Besut.
He explained that the empty blue plastic bags of fertilizer left at the foot of each kelapa
sawit tree were left by the Indonesian workers. They had previously dumped the whole amount
in a few places instead of carefully distributing the fertilizer, hence the smaller bags to prove
The orang asli receive a dividend of five times 5000 RM a year for their participation and
use of their land in the FELCRA scheme. Adam has bought a MyVy car and while we were
there, ferried those who -like him, wanted to go to Kuala Besut to get the government BRIM
allowance.
Adam is aware of the philosophical and political implications of the land modern division/
appropriation compared to direct use/ protection (Bateq tradition) as well as of other options
[like the some of the PAS members or, in history those of Padang Kemunting rebels.] “Ada
Yet medicinal species are still collected (Fig.4), providing Adam with a side revenue.
Figure 4.192 Map of the Kuala Sayap Figure 4.193 In the baskets, penawar hitam
settlement village in 2017. The roofs of the (Polyaltia bullata) and Kacip Fatimah
dewan, of palm oil plantation can be seen (Labisia pothoina) Adam’s house, the
mosque, and the surrounding
In Kuala Terengganu, in 2015 the JHOA Department of Terengganu and Kelantan held an
exhibition, mostly collected from the Bateq in Kelantan or at the Northern entrance of the
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Taman Negara. The medicinal parts of fifty classic species were shown and their usage
explained. (Appendix 2)
Figure 4.194 “Highway tak siap” 2020. -Google map (-add location Kuala Sayap)
Introduction In 1990, the Semaq Beri settlement village in Kuala Berua was larger
than the one in Kuala Sayap. The orang asli there belonged the Senoi tribe. Their size was
taller, their hair was less curly than the ones of the Bateq, their skin slightly fairer, their
features more Asiatic. Their timber houses were built around the slopes of a valley where
the government had a building for agricultural research. Back in 1992, the Kenyir dam,
with fish cages, boats and even rafts, although it had cut direct resources from the forests,
The mystery of Buluh Nipis: a paper from Lincolm Inn University in PJ. ( describes
a survey of medicinal spp. used by an unspecified group Orang Asli in Terengganu. Intrigued
by the paucity of species mentioned, the mixture of Aloe vera and forest medicinal species and
the facts that “Buluh Nipis” is a not a village but an “agricultural” (cf. Google map) place near
went to investigate together with a botanist and an ecologist to the Ulu Telemong Forest reserve
Figure 4.195 Hulu Telemong Forest Reserve: detail, hills landscape and collapsed road
There, by the side of one of the tarred but deserted -in places collapsed former logging
roads, was a gathering of huts made from small trees, bamboo, wild gingers, nipah and other
palms species.
The relative sophistication -lay out with levels, well defined areas for sleeping, cooking, storage
etc.- of the buildings indicated builders with a familiarity with a large organized habitat,such as
the Semaq Beri people whom I had been met more than twenty year ago, living then ina timber
resettlement beyond Kuala Berang, in Sungai Berua close to the Kenyir Lake.
Carefully woven square shaped pandanus baskets, rings of plaid rattan and other vegetal
decoration suggest a “sewang” festival. The “village” must have been temporary erected for a
special occasion. We went to enquire in the Semoq Beri village of Kuala Berua, East of Kenyir.
Unfortunatelly, Alias, the knowledgeable headman was away collecting medicinal species in
Later, in March 2019, the Semaq Beri settlement in Sungai Berua on the tar road (built in
1992) to the bank of the Eastern side of Lake Kenyir, had a school, a two-storeys meeting hall
a sepak takraw and basketball court. A street was bordered by more than 30 concrete houses.
Cars were parked at the back. Pak Yusof, a medicinal plant collector cum practitioner, agreed
to lead me in the forest to show the species he favoured. According to him, there were no more
“sewang” ceremonies as the old people who knew how to celebrate these had passed away. The
Figure 4.197 Fishing in Kenyir (2017). Bateq scaffold for burial in the trees, erected in
June 2019. (pics by Digital Dome)
In June 2019, a mysterious epidemy of gastroenteritis and broncheitis was reported among
the orang asli living in Kuala Koh. 15 people had died. Pollution of the rivers due to mining
on the hills in Kelantan was deemed to cause the illness. People from Kuala Koh (Bateq people)
had sought refuge in Sungai Berua. So, the Semoq Beri inhabitants, -whole families even with
cats and chicken- moved to forests towards the North of the lake in Kampong Gerdong area.
They were said to have moved even further inside the forest.
Figure 4.197 The Semak Beri refuge in Figure 4.198 Bukit Kapal, Jeneris river and
Kampong Gadong Pic.Bernama, Jun 2019 collapsed road near where the “sewang”
ceremony took place
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Figure 4.199 Map with location of the Sungai Berua settlement of the Semoq Beri in
Terengganu and that of the “Kampong Buluh Nipis” where traces of a “sewang” ceremony
had been seen in 2017 and of the area of Gerdong where the Semoq Beri sought refuge
during the 2019 measles epidemy
This was learned during a visit to Sungai Berua in 2019 with a French sociologist and a
Malaysian Rimba anthropologist. The Rimba office is set in kampong Basung. The researchers
and volunteers of this NGO have frequent contacts with the orang asli, in their conservation
activities.
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Figure 4.200 a) Sungai Berua (2019) cars and row of concrete terrace houses). At the back
of a house, Pak Yusof and I are planning a trip to check on some medicinal species.
b) (2021) In the library, in Pulau Duyong, orang Bateq look at medicinal roots, after a
5.1 Selection of data: from the “Past Era” to the “Present Era”
To retrace the changes over time and find the paths that led to the present era in
Terengganu, this chapter recapitulates data gathered over the two periods of time presented in
the methodology chapter: 1980-2007- “past era”, and 2014-2022 “present era”. An analytic
review of the narratives and inventories of plants and cultural features reported in the visits and
re-visits done in those respective eras allows to identify the changes in the explored sites. It
underscore the significance of these changes for the inhabitants who experience the emergence
For the floral environment, assessments of the evolution are made through comparisons
past/ present in quantity (increase or decrease in number of species:) and in quality (usage of
the species) in coastal areas, in villages, in the forests, around the Lake Kenyir, upon the hill
For the built environment, cultural and ground features from “the past era”: found
previously in house compounds and in other inhabited sites, are inventoried and compared with
Throughout the surveys, the causes and the consequences of the observed changes over
time appear, and assist in understanding how the “present era” with its undertones of a new
The advent of the “present era” did not happen suddenly. It is, over almost forty years, the
result of multiple transformations that had an impact on the landscapes, on the flora and on
the life of the people of Terengganu. First mentioned here, are the exterior or exogenous events
or factors, second, are the significant endogenous changes -quantitative and qualitative-
In Terengganu, it had been observed, during the visits and revisits, that exogeneous events
have had a strong, and often irreversible impact on the old landscapes that were in the past
In the present time, the estuary of the Terengganu River, as seen in the pictures
illustrating recent visits], is not any more the beach of Seberang Takir where sailors used to
collect sand for ballast, nor views of sailing boats -perahu payang, kolek or kuel- returning
from the sea. It is not anymore, at sunset, coconut trees swaying over the estuarine islands, a
view for elderly Chinese men to enjoy, while sitting in front of their town house by the river in
Jalan Kampong China -the Chinese village street. The estuary has changed direction (from
North -East to due East). It has now a vast marina and large new spaces where modern
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buildings will evoke the thriving city that has been planned as early as 2005 (State Chief
Minister Idris Yusof) and 2011 (ECRED, East Coast Regional Economic Development,), and
a draw bridge has been built over the mouth of the river.
The coast from Marang to Dungun has seen its quiet road by the beach enlarged. Timber
houses and their verandas, -from where locals could be entertained by the views of tourists avid
of sun and swimming, while athletes practice surfing-, had to be moved away, sometimes
chalets and larger buildings brought some revenue and roads to the quiet beaches, bris dunes,
mangroves, and lowlands forests, while the inhabitants were encouraged to involve in
On the inland side, a metamorphosis started in 1985 hulu -up river- when the flow the
Terengganu River spread over valleys and a few small villages, bringing the energy of the
rivers waters to the Kenyir Hydro-electrical Dam. As much as 260km2 of forests, a home for
tigers and elephants, gigantic Dipterocarps and endemic small Gesneriacea, have become a
lake where houseboats bring families to experience the liquid landscape that mirrors green
surroundings. Infrastructures, -roads, bridges, drains and conducts for piped water and
On the Orang Asli side, efforts were made to bring them toward the main stream of
the population, through concrete housing, schools, TV and sports. They are invited as stake
holders in the surrounding recent palm oils plantations and as forest guides. The following table
Landscape impacting exogenous events had been ambitious and deliberate, while on the
ground, in the visited sites, endogenous events, although less ambitious, have appeared that
had also a strong influence on the landscapes. Transformations have occurred in the
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interconnected habitats: the habitat of the plants, and the habitat of the people, in their
The accumulated result is that the hypothesis advanced in Chapter 1 will seems being
verified: new times have emerged and the new era is oriented towards a new civilization. From
the ecological point of view, the steps of a move within the new era can be summarized in the
two columns of parallel dynamics in the floral environment (or I” plant ecology”) and the built
environment (or II, “Human ecology”) as shown in the recapitulation Fig. 5…presented at the
end of this chapter. However, a more empirical evaluation has been attempted, by comparisons
To evaluate the evolution of the plants and of their habitat over the years. the narratives in
the precedent chapter 4 have been completed by analyses of plants species inventories over
A first “General inventory” (Full version in Table Appendix A…) referred to in the
methodology gives identity information on @ 587 plant species encountered along more than
three decades (1982-2020), from notes in personal journals, records from expeditions. Species
are presented with headings indicating their vernacular and scientific name, botanicalfamily,
habitat, geographical range, and area where they were noted in Terengganu. It may be used as
5.2.2 Results from the “Baseline inventory” (Inventory with location, Uses and present
Occurrence)
This inventory (Full version in Appendix A) of “Plants with location and uses” or “Baseline
Inventory” refers not only to the habitat, but to the particular place (“location”) within the
surveyed landscapes where each plant had been found, photographed or a sampleof which
Table 5.2 Extract of the Table Inventory with location and uses, or “Baseline
inventory”.
This inventory includes 323 plant species, found in the visited sites, with their botanical
name, Malay name, records of the place where they have been spotted and recorded on the
i. “Wild species” (w) means that the taxa are native or have been introduced naturally.
ii. “Planted” (pl) refers to human intervention.
iii. “Traditional Medicine” (“TM”) refers to a therapeutic reputation, often shared over the range (India,
Indonesia South China, Vietnam, Thailand) of the plant.
iv. “Food” (F) -often associated with Medicine.
v. “Pharmaceutical interest” (Pharm) means reviewed or mentioned in scientific papers (phyto-pharmacy,
phyto-chemistry, medicine).
vi. Ornamental (“Orn.”) refers to the aesthetic and fragrance value of the taxa, as well as their role in
bringing shade, perspectives and variety to the landscapes. Surprisingly perhaps, it is a category that has
most changed over the years.
vii. “p” means seen in the same place or in immediate neighborhood (“p” for present): 202 species
viii. “0” means not seen any more in that place, so they are qualified as “disappeared”: 48 species. They
have not been found again where they used to be seen in the past. For some, it is probable that their
environment, -their habitat, has been subject to disturbances, and they might still be found elsewhere in the
state,
ix. “Unverified “: 51 species: noted in the headings as “Check” September 2022: latest verification: 36
species qualified as “uncertain”.
The letter “y” refers to “yes” and means a positive answer to the referred use.
The 36 species qualified as “uncertain” had been seen over the years in the past, but in the
present times, they could not be seen. Presence or absence is not verified as of today or recently
(“Check” was noted in the original inventory with location). Although re-visits were conducted
at least three times in the localities where the plants had been seen previously, they were not
visible the following times. Various reasons may have prevented a sighting: species not as
accompanying forest staff was not available or have retired, etc., so, these species are included
within their habitat, but not at the formerly noted location, has been re-asserted: In an interview
(September 2022), with Encik Jaffrey, security officer at the Terengganu Forest Department
who, seeing the list of the still “uncertain” species exclaimed: “These are all medicinal plants!”
in fact, they are still in the forest, “but they have withdrawn from the too frequented paths”
Some of the species are mentioned frequently because they appear in a few categories of
uses.
use
From 323 species with location that were reputed as used by the inhabitants and mentionned
in phyto-botanical literature, 48 have not been found again and are recapitulated in a specific
Table 5.3 Extract from the “Recapitulatory inventory of the disappeared species” (In
Appendix A, 2 “Specific”)
This inventory lists the plants species that have not been found anymore. The causes of
these losses have been traced by individual species, then classified, to underscore the main
causes of the change (Appendix A, 2, Specific). Some have increased over time, such as
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ornamentals or invasive species, often climbers that smother weakened trees like Cengal
pasir.
Table 5.4 Past and present status of the plants, by usage and present pharmaceutical interest
D I FFE R E N C E O F “ PA S T ” A N D
“ PR E S E N T” , B Y U S A GE
Past Present
300 283
250 238
200
150
100 77 83
70
60
50
0
Traditional Medicine Food Ornamental
Figure 5.1: Past and present status of the plants, by main usage
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i) Traditional medicine: (TM) They were 283 species noted in the past. The remaing
species are 238, so the disappeared amount to: 45. For example, the camphor
recommanded for back pain, the bitter Brucea javanica -Melada pahit and the
Flemingia macrophylla -Serengan, for recovery showers or are not found any
more in the cemetery of Pulau Duyong. They have been cut, so as to leave only
A few “new” medicinal species have appeared, in private nurseries (Pak Wail in
established in Indonesia. Other new bona fame species in 2016 are Clinacanthus
ii) Food: on 67 species, 10 have not been seen again at the same place as in the past.
For example, the planted Thrichosantes celebica -Ketola ular. Some familial Duku
orchards have been converted into terrace housing, (Seberang Takir) or madrasah
school (Pulau Duyong) or cut down (in Serada) because they were quite old.
Spreading mangoes and tamarind trees had to be cut for the safety of nearby roofs.
However, on the whole, fruiting trees are more preserved, even if not always used,
than wild medicinal species, but they have not increased in quantity.
Senna alata, Dolichandrone spathacea with trumpet shaped large flowers. have
disappeared from the locations of belukar or mangrove where they were observed
in the past. However, the total amount of ornamentals has augmented because a
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new trend has emerged: Inhabitants plant shrubs (Ixora, Bougainvillier, Hibiscus
rosa-sinensis) herbs, (Codiaeum, Aloe vera, Zebrina pendula, many coleus with
colorful leaves). They ornate their house with trees and shrubs previously found in
of nature, the increase of ornamental species planted in pots is not only a sign of
The bases of the walls and steps of the stairs and the bottoms of the houses areparticularly
decorated with ornamental species planted in pots., with, here and there, some medicinal
The species used as material in the past, Ceiba pentandra -Kekabu, Oncosperma
tigilarium -Nibong , Hopea odorata -Cengal pasir, perceived as less useful, are less regarded
and have diminished in quantity, while for the Melaleuca cajuputi, they have now to compete
in their former pure strands in littoral forests with the vigorous introduced Accacia mangium.
The number of those that are not found any more are an indication that the links of these
species with the life of the people living close-by, the relationship of the people with their floral
environment, is diminishing. Like threads that -in a way- tied the people and the plants, these
The following figure, established from the Plant Species Baseline Inventory gives a
recapitulation of the change over time in proportion, by use of plant species, in the visited sites,
Figure 5.2: Proportional evolution in occurrence of the plant species over time,
according to three main uses
The number of wild species, used medicinally in the past, has decreased of 10%, which is
not dramatic, yet which is a trend noticeable as these species are abundant in the natural
environment in Malaysia and were commonly seen in the past. The other categories have
increased in proportion, which does not necessarily mean that they have increased in quantity.
In villages, the increase of climbers growing on trees of declining health, occults the actual
The reasons of the disappearances, observed on the field and as given by the inhabitants
on site, have been noted for individual species. (Full text in Appendix A, 2 Specific
events”) and wild species are cut to leave place to selected ones: for example there
ii. Species cut to be replaced by new built features such as concrete drains and other
iii. Area deliberately “cleaned” for space or landscaping: Neo-Litsea zeylanica -Teja,
iv. Lack of interest or maintenance ability from habitants: for exemple Vallaris glabra -
vii. Poaching
In the present time, according to observations and frequent interviews with villagers, a
number of plants species, common and medicinal, -in the past taken for granted, have
disappeared, unnoticed, unless they are evoked (as the Senna alata -Gelenggang and Donax
This means that today, the relationship of people with a number of species is not close. The
reasons seen on the field for the changes of a number of plants species, as far as their presence
and their role in the life of the people are confirmed: They are exogen: - infrastructure
construction, general premium on urbanization, land status changes; and endogen: demise of
preferences, age, increase of land cost. Some factors are both exogen and endogen such as the
coast of timber material: “It is cheaper to build a concrete house than a wooden one!” is a heard
in Terengganu. (These reasons remain very similar to those found out by Nor Zalina Harun
(2018), also in the vicinity of the Terengganu Estuary. Consequently, the landscape is
modified.)
Some taxa, known as invasive, such as the Mikania micrantha, Chromolaena odorata, or
the pretty climber Ipomea alba, and the minute introduced cucumber Melothria pendula, may
give an impression of renewed abundance and contribute to the aesthetics of the villages. So
do the ubiquitous and easily invasive trees, Hisbiscus tiliaceus (synonym Talipariti tiliaceun),
The relationship of the people with their floral environment is being -slowly- modified. A
particular knowledge, “first aid” on the field, (or potential clues for phytochemical research),
may be erased. Yet, traditional knowledge on medicinal flora has not completely disappeared:
In the present era, in Terengganu, the traditional knowledge on plants with therapeutic use
exhibits contrasting aspects: It is preserved and documented, while some of it may be erased,
together with its natural context; yet a few traditional practitioners still provide their services.
From interviews conducted in the recent past and in the present times and on-site impromptu
confidences (Delfolie 2021) much of the common knowledge on medicinal plant species has
diminished amongst the new generations in Terengganu, while the ancient medicinal
knowledge holders, mentioned in the first part of Chapter 4 have passed away. However, a
To highlight the resilience of some of the traditional medicinal knowledge over time,
sought. This allows to observe a measure of persistence and consistency of that traditional
knowledge. Five sources have been examined (Table in Appendix A, Inventories, Specifics)
i. The list of species from “Buku herba ubatan Terengganu,” a book published by the
Terengganu Forest Department with @400 taxa -including synonyms- in two volumes
(2006 and 2011). As introduced in Chapter 4, this two volumes gathering is a work on
medicinal plants composed by a team of officers, rangers and field workers from the
photographs of the plants, and records their therapeutic uses. It has been chosen here as
base reference.
ii. The kitab tib -medicinal book- on “Tradisyonal Medicine”: It is a manuscript in jawi -
from a seller of antiques in Kuala Terengganu does not specify its origin. Examination,
transliteration and glossary have been established by Harun Mat Piah (2010). The
species mentioned do not refer to many forest species (only @ 20 are mentioned).
Perhaps this is due to the influence of a more urban knowledge. It may as well indicate
a provenance from Pattani where much traditional and religious knowledge had
received influences from international Middle East sources, through voyages and study
iii. Mat Kapur, the bomoh and plants seller, shared his list of @ 100 species verbally. The
species he mentioned were easily found on the coastal areas. They include as well
Orang Asli herbal specialities growing in the forests towards the interior.
2005 to 2007, includes 335 taxa, completed during further surveys with species
v. The list of species collected from the Orang Asli includes @ 136 taxa. This amount has
been gathered by this researcher from visits over time to the Bateq and Semak Beri
in Kuala Terengganu and from the detailed record by a team Universiti Malaysia
Terengganu who interviewed 37 informants from the same tribes (Fuad, Pesiu et al.
2021). [The aborigenes are familiar with medicinally reputed villages species as well
Table 5.5: Extract from the “Table “Frequency of medicinal species from 5 local different
sources, according to various sources of knowledge available in Terengganu”.(Complete in
Appendix A Specifics…) [ 25 species not mentioned in the Foresters’ “Herba Ubatan” have
been added for reference, from observation and documentation].
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species among the diverse sources of information. That implies a consistency of herbal
The Buku Herba Ubatan Terengganu, the “Foresters’ book”. introduces 336 plant species.
The kitab Tib of “Tradisyonal Medicine” gives 108 species that are the same as the ones
“Mat Kapur ‘s list”, given orally and noted in 1985, verified with Mat Kapur’s son in
2015, was of @100 species, of which 73 are similar to the foresters’ book.
The “House compounds village list” from previous researches with a total of @ 210 plants
(2007), mentions 98 species that are found also in the Foresters book.
98 Species from the OA have been found similar to those on a total of @ 160 species
recorded from (“Pak Din” and JAEOA, 2017) in Kuala Terengganu and to the most recent
The following 6 species are present in every list: Alpinia galanga, Averrhoa belimbi, Blumea
found in secondary growth and villages grounds. Two plants, the Alpinia and the Averrhoa, are
24 species are present in 4 of the 5 lists. These are: Annona muricata, Areca catechu,
Tamarindus indicus. They are found in villages. Only the Smilax and the Baeckia come from
a wild habitat, respectively in low land forests and on the coasts and hills. The other species
There is a consistency of consensus among medicinal species lists from various sources,
transmitted over the generations until present times. Botanical names and Malay names are
known in the ethnobotanical literature. Their indications and preparation, their uses and
complementary ingredients are indicated in the Foresters herbal book as well in the
remembered, -although sometimes faintly, by some villagers, and by a few present times
replacement. Only the grand-son of “Ayah Da” in Bukit Cempaka, comes to continue the
“bekam” cupping on Fridays. A few new traditional therapists have appeared, though:
Today, in 2021, in Pulau Duyong Kecil, on the road to the tourism Centre and the Rias Hotel
and Resort, is a treatment clinic heralding a continued syncretism as shown in the following
figure:
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Figure 5.3 Traditional treatment clinique in Pulau Duyong Kecil: “Islamic acupuncture” blessed
and “sufi”.
There are still knowledgeable people today such as Pak Wail in or Che Gu Haji Arif who
have set herbal gardens in Bukit Cempaka and in Gelong Bilal -Jalan Pasir Panjang, as well as
women medicinal plants sellers at the markets in various Pasar Tani and in Manir. Besides the
traditional panoply, they know of some new (in 2013- 2016) bona fame species: Phalearia
macrocarpa -Makhota dewa, Clinacanthus nutans -Belalai gajah, Pereskia bleo - Jarum tujuh,
Figure 5.4: Pic botanical book in Arabic and Malay on plants, showing a Middle East connection,
shown at Pasar Manir, Terengganu: Saffra: zakfaran, halba: Hilbeh.
A reputed Tok Bidang -midwife, daughter of healer Haji Siak who lived in a lone house on
an otherwise forest covered island of the Terengganu estuary, is now practicing in Pulau Ketam.
She talked freely of the “anasir or jising halus -spirits creatures that exist like us” she
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explained, and regretted that one of her sons had erased the mantras formulas she kept on her
Some of the plant species reputed in Terengganu were mentioned also in ancient Chinese
traditional medicine as reported in “Herb Hunting in Hong Kong” (1988) and other
compilations including “A Barefoot Doctors Manual” (1974). The range of a number of these
reputed species cover large geographic areas, from India to Africa and Arabia, such as Zyzyphus
served as or has been used as potential lead for phytochemical exploratory research, hence the
number of reviews or academic mentions signaled in the “Baseline Inventory”, almost identical
explored with publication dates from 2004 to 2020, giving a measure of the extend of the
Unfortunately, the actual “material books” where the information was consigned “live”,
which is the natural and built environments where the plants grew, is changing. Knowledge
5.3.4 The fate of the “Paths of knowledge” of the Orang Asli and of the Villagers
In “Changing Pathways” (2004), anthropologist Lye Tuck Po had described how the Bateq
people of the forest of Pahang literally keep the records of their knowledge on theforest
as a source of food and also of medicine. They learn while walking among the treesand
remember the places where the plants were found -were they edible, or medicinal or usable as
tools. The paths they have followed are memory “maps”, with the plants -alive -or still vivid in
In Terengganu, as early as 1982 and 1883, Carol Laderman and Josiane Massard (their
works are mentioned in the literature review) had noted the importance of ulam health
protective greens in the daily diet of the villages’ inhabitants. These herbs were then at the
disposal of the villagers on the sides of the paths. Children could collect them, learning their
names, their uses, and where to find them from grand-parents, parents or friends. Girls would
know often where to find the medicinal plants they could collect to assist a family member
after child delivery. Far away, in Estonia, Renata Soukand (2010) has qualified the landscape
where people would find the healing plants they need as “herbal landscape”. That type of
landscape was also a reality for the people in Terengganu, until -progressively, tar roads, cars,
The difference between the herbal or therapeutic landscape of the Orang Asli and the one
of the villagers is that the Orang Asli “lessons” existed as such in the forest, while the one in
villages was the result of a built environment or gardens that introduced new valued species,
side by side with the original floral composition elements. Both Orang Asli and villagers
benefitted from the common didactic role of the landscape. In reality, today, both didactic
landscapes are disrupted by the frequent disappearance of the paths and of the original
vegetation cover. The Orang Asli direct “on the ground learning” and the villages’ landscape
inbuilt pedagogy or lessons in the landscape, disappear, and the traditional Ilmu -knowledge-
with it.
In the Present Era, the Orang Asli are still repositories, warden or trustees, of acommon
traditional herbal knowledge in the area where their live and travel, be it theirs originally, or
the one of the villages in the vicinity. The Orang Asli that had been interviewed mentioned 136
species (Appendix A, 2, “Specific”) such as Senna tora and Centella asiatica or Drymoglossum
pillesoides and Hyptis brevipes, all found within villages and outskirts or
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close-by plantations, like Nyor lemba, Molinera latifolia, or Paku tunjuk langit -
Helminthostachys neo-zeylanica. Only a few species -23 taxa on the total of 136- are found
in the forest, such as the medicinal Annonaceae: a Goniothalamus and a Polyalthia, the two
Smilax, the three Aji Samat, (Prismatomeris glabra, Jackiopsis ornata and Salacia
background
The floral environment used to be the host of the built environment. Back in the eighties,
villages were seen nestled in natural landscapes where the inhabitants found at hand much of
their resources and material to produce not only food, but also tools to process and prepare the
food. Some plants species are cultural signals: Lawsonia invermis -Inai, Zyzyphus mauritiana
The built environment was laid out or adopted by the villagers. A practical landscape
included fruit trees, useful shrubs and decorative shade-providing species. The flora was a
component of the village landscape. It would have qualified as “florally composed cultural
The interrelation between the plants and the people was not only witnessed in their use as
food –such as the -still present- the Bunga biru (Clitoria ternatea) growing on fences and
providing the blue color of the rice in the Terengganu nasi kerabu-, or medicinal use of the
plants or in their landscape role. The close relationship was obvious as well in everyday life,
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in the traditional routine activities recorded in specific expressions: There were, in the
mangrove swamps the Nypa fruticans for the rokok daun (cigarette rolled in nipa leaves); these
swamps have been replaced by concrete drains. The mandi serum plants species noted in Pulau
Duyong visits, such as the Teja -Neo-litsea zeylanica, Capa -Blumea balsamica, Terape -
Glycosmis pentaphylla, have been replaced by decorative Jejuang -Cordilyne fruticosa and
Plumeria in the cemeteries. “Panjat nyor” -to climb the coconut tree-, is not much practiced
anymore in villages. The palm trees have aged while the “beruk panjat nyor” the coconut
climbing monkeys, and their masters have retired. One traditional activity is surviving: the
weaving of Rumput kercut -Lepironia articulata, on the coasts. However, today, the custom of
“hampar tikar” -to spread a mat for guests- is often rendered unnecessary by the presence of
Some tools made from tree material and were present in everyday life: wood for a lesong
from Tembesu -Fagraea fragrans, to pound fish and tapioca flour, “bong” timber stake to de-
husk the coconuts, kukuran nyor from Cengal to resist energic grinding out the pulp of a
coconut, and the penyapu lidi, a broom made from the leaves of coconut or Nipah palms. Toys
were made from the plants as well such as mock watch bracelets and trailers out of palms. [as
Cultural features and used parts of plants. trees or palms, reappear nowadays in Museum
displays and festivals re-enactments, for education and tourism. Their value is still
acknowledged, and the wooden tools -kisaran grinders, lesong pounders and kukuran
scrappers- are now sought after by collectors. On the ground, in life, electrical tools have
5.4.1 Quantitative evolution in the Built Environment: Cultural and ground Features
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Although at a first look, timber houses and gardens in Terengganu, did not exhibit grand
striking features, yet, as early as 1970, the National Museum of Malaysia moved a Terengganu
house right next to their modern vernacularly inspired building. It was recognized, as
mentioned earlier from Mubin Sheppard (1972) to Lim Jee Yuan (1987) Raja Bahrin (1988),
that timber habitations observed in villages in the past were a testimony of an identity and
Restoration and reconstruction efforts were made, using the crafts pasak pegs or dowels
technic instead of nails, and reproducing the particular end of the mempeleh facia boards
designs.
Further, adding to the significance in terms of historical or design value, the technical use of a
material is significant. In Terengganu, that material is -or was- the wood -Seraya and Meranti
state forests. Besides the artistic taste of the inhabitants, that material serves, when carved, to
tells of their beliefs and philosophy. Furthermore, other than the traditionally used material, the
organization of the built environment can be as well an expression of the social preferences
In the past, the house compounds found in the villages in the state of Terengganu were full
chapter 4 of this study. The house walls, apart from carvings, had papan kembung (relief timber
boards), and, beyond the tukup -two layers kitchen roof, had also protruding dish dryers. The
gardens had, jars, fire-places, hammocks, walkways, resting platforms below trees and palm
wind breakers. The compounds had monkey’s special “apartments”, tool sheds
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and rice huts. On the larger compounds, they had praying places (“surau”) and teaching places.
Change over time had modified the built environment. Visits and re-visits in house
number of cultural features between the past and the present eras. The following survey extract
Table 5.6: Example of cultural and ground furniture evolution over time
A survey of House compounds features made along the years 2005 to 2007 revealed how the
built environment features were important tangible aspects of the built environment in quantity
and in use, and how, through new surveys made from 2014 to 2020. these, formerly considered
In the 16 house compounds of the study, a total of 113 cultural features had been gathered.
Three house compounds have been erased, together with their features: one “clan” type in town
Kuala Terengganu, two “Rakyat,” one the coast (Batu Rakit) and one in the estuary island of
Pulau Ketam, somewhat impacting the total resultsa. That hints further that
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disappearance, re-use of the material, or moving away (modular houses built on stilts) is not a
an example of the observed change, an extract from the cultural features inventories (Appendix
A, 2) Specific) of past /present comparison is given, following their respective type of house
compound:
The total for Cultural or ground features occurrences noted in 16 house compounds is: 113.
The number of not “seen anymore” features is indicated in the table below:
Table 5.7: Differences in quantity of cultural features seen over two eras
The total missing (not seen) features in the present era, from actual sightings is: 267 - 157 =
90. Percentage of the “not seen anymore”, 110 on 267, which is 41 % of the original number
enumerated in 2007. This means considerable change -and loss, in a little more than a decade.
[Some architectural features are mentioned, as they participate in the landscape, but are not
enumerated here in detail as their quantity vary according to the view point, from 80 items to
54 and 34)]
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The house compounds did answer criteria that justified their identification as “cultural
landscape”. They answered to as much as 17 criteria of the World heritage Convention and
Kaplan and Kaplan (1989), (cf. Appendix B). Other than its practical and cultural quality, the
Beyond their cultural and practical value, landscapes have been identified as able to carry
a message: they “communicate”. They speak of the taste and beliefs of the inhabitants of a
place (Carl Sauer. 1925, Rapoport, 2004). That landscapes can be “red” and understood just
to ecologists and sociologists. Beyond their function, their art or craft value, landscapes
“communicate” with the inhabitants, visitors or passers-by (Gros and Fisher,1984, Anne
Whiston Spirn,1998). In Terengganu the landscape of the houses and villages do speak.The
cultural and ground features are the “words” written in the language of the landscape of the
house compounds. If these features are not found in quantity anymore, it means that the
landscape and its “vocabulary” clearly existed. “Ground furniture” -in landscape architecture
terms -wells, animal loggings, outside resting benches, cooking tripods, jars, various wooden
platforms etc. were its “words”. However, nowadays, the message has become less explicit
because Terengganu of the past is losing its “words”, as witnessed in the sites described during
These “words” are signs of a way of life, of an identity, of history and survival. When many
culturally or practically important at a time-, is going away, and that a living environment is -
component after component- moving away, while another environment is probably replacing
composed the “vocabulary” of the Terengganu language is given, from the visits and re- visits:
i) Water features: (total 17) these features are the wells, with their accessories, -
drains, containers, jars, and scoops…These were seen in the past 91 times in the
16 visited compounds. From the field inventories and re-visits, are noted as seen
today: 51 times.
Water providing devices animated the compounds with the daily sounds of their flow at regular
times of the days, from the prayers of dawn to the women washing the clothes while children
learned to shower with a rope and a triangular pail, (timba) and men returning from the fields
These wells are now filled and gone, or closed -as in Encik Mansor’s house, or sometimes
equipped with an electrical pump and a pipe to the bathroom on a new house or to the garden
compound (as in Bukit Cempaka) and used for reason of economy or in case of sudden lack
of piped water.
The triangular pail with a rope, the timba hung close to the well in the past, is now replaced
for an occasional use by a common bucket. In the past era, near the stairs of the house, placed
below a rain gutter was a jar (tempayang) filled with water during rains. A
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scoop made from a coconut shell (penyedok or batuk) was hung on a stick at the disposal of
those who were not wearing shoes to be used to wash their feet.
Figure 5.5: ” Kak Long balek Hari ini” Chan Fee Ming (1992) an example of resilience:
picture. on the Batu Rakit coast, in a sandy area (2007). Today, pipe with faucet by the stairs
In the Present Era, water is usually brought into the houses through underground pipes.
The concrete slab at the bottom of the stairs is still used to step on it; but nowadays, it is not
water that covers the slab as visitors prepare to climb: It is slippers and shoes. Jar, scoop, pail,
ii) Daily life features activities (9 features). Electricity had brought obsolescence to
Figure 5.6: a) “Sail” (Chang Fee Ming, 1987) Batik drying in Pulau Duyong b) Stil
visiblel: “Ampaian” in the Kampong Setebu Farm, (2022).
Today, inhabitants do not live as much outside, but inside the house: The dryer in the
washing machine leads to the diminution of sightings of traditional attire. Clothes are hung for
shorter times; the lines of hanging clothes are less long. There are no more birth news carried
by bendung corsets the mother’s big and child small, having the same ribbons helping to tighten
the cloth over their respective bodies. Colorful kain batik decorate less the lines of drying
clothes. There are less plain kain pelikat telling of a grandfather preparing to go to the surau.
Among the ancient ground features, rakes and fireplaces still exist, “words” speaking of
the desire to clean the ground when chicken and other animals often ran freely over it. Towards
the back of the house, often under it, there were lesong pounding devices dug into a large piece
of wood which served to for rice also for the fish and tapioca flour of the kerupuk sausages or
crackers. Upon the lambur in the front of the house, woven palm mats in Mengkuang and
Kercut- were spread on the floor as a welcome gesture. In present times, a tempat tetamu -a
guest place- with seating area and furniture with sofa, chairs and table may be prepared on the
serambi or in the living room. Although the lambur verandah at the top of the stairs is still used,
for a brief or informal meeting or for work on fishing nets and. weaving
Former rejang -ancient four posts beds- brought down from the house and used as gerai
plate-forms- invited informally family and neighbors to sit outside the house. Climbing plants
species Valloris glabra Kesidang, Melor, jasmine, grown on the earth or in large wooden boxes
surrounding the staircase welcomed visitors with their fragrance and accompanied
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house inhabitants on their way out towards their various tasks. They are not so common
anymore. Today, many of the old working gerai have disappeared (together with Che Da’s
house in Pulau Ketam) from the house compounds. The still usable rejang having joined the
ranks of valuable antiques, are now back inside the houses. Ready-made concrete or painted
iron seats and table replace the previously built-on-site timber gerai ground furniture.
In Encik Mansor’s house compound in town, (Fig. in Chapter 4) a resting place has been
built. It is now called a “wakaf” as it follows, but inside the garden, the tradition of building a
public place to rest for travelers. It has a Singhora tiles roof and a buah gutong -finial inherited
In the past, numerous activity features were visible as in the Haji Tahir’s house
compound (“Farm” in Bukit Cempaka) where coconut use was frequent and evident. There
were living quarters for the “coconut climbing monkey” (beruk panjat nyor), under a tall
tamarin tree near two baluh padi huts. “Bong” de-huskers were seen in most houses, their
blade with a half open coconut stuck on it to protect unwary passers-by or children. Today,
Figure 5.7: Dehusker Painting Chang Fee Ming (1996) or “bong” in Bukit Cempaka
demonstrated by Haji Tahir’s son (2019)
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In the “clan” types of Tokku Paluh and Haji Yusof, a surau -Muslim chapel- had been built,
with a large kolah concrete basin in Tokku Paluh’s, and in Haji Yusof Clan in Kuala Hiliran.
These are still there, one with its kolah dressed in ceramic, its well equipped with an electric
pump. The surau has been rebuilt with modern timber and a mixture of traditional “buah
gutong” and “tunjuk Langit”. In “Haji Yusof clan” in front of the surau, a vegetable garden
with common shrubs: Solanum torvum, Clitorea ternatea, Citrus species, and herbs, has been
created.
Classic gable roofs, the multiple -separate yet attached- roof buildings composing a house,
-the modular construction facilitating addition of buildings-, the diverse floor levels, the stilts,
the stairs and their use, parts of the “words” or vocabulary can be mentioned both as
a “punctuation” of that landscape language. They are marks and testimonies of ancient history.
The ends of the roof rafters (“kayu rel”and “kasau”) of the houses are covered by barges
planks (fasciae) called “pemeleh” The recurring shape of the extremities of thesefascia
boards are different from the finishing of the similar decorated covers of the Thai or Cambodian
rafter ends. While in these Northern regions, the ends curve upwards like thewing of birds,
in Terengganu, fasciae barges have a peculiar end shape, like the open jaws of
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Figure 5.8: Inverted shapes: a) Thai, Hindu “Dragon jaws (Hpp.Behance.net): “Pemeleh” Makara
shape in Duyong Kecil, stairs in Kuala Hiliran
In Terengganu, the Makara has been simplified and stylized in an inverted pattern with the
longer jaw at the bottom, inversing the shape. The stylized Makara is found as well on stairs,
gutong or Buah buton or Barringtonia fruit: Often interpreted as decorative elements, refers to
the two roof finials on a house built in “atap Belanda’ - “Holland” style of roof” meaning that
or Bugis architecture, with a gable roof. The “buton” finials have been interpreted as symbol
that will encourage the inhabitants to remember death and tombal ornaments. However, other
and more than having an aesthetic and esoteric meaning, these buah buton or gutong finials
found on roofs in front and at the back of a house, are essential roof construction elements:
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they have in their rectangular middle three perforations that house and support the extremities
of the roof main ridge (tulang perabung) and the extremities of the fascia boards.
With their rounded top, the buah gutong finials could be have been interpreted also as
or foreign interpretation, the finials are balanced by a rounded geometrical bulb given the
These ornaments are not only a “visual punctuation” of the house compounds landscape,
but are also an artistic and esoteric signal, like the sobek carvings grills on walls openings, they
Figure 5.9: a) “buah gutong” dry fruit b) Roof top main beam finial on an “atap Belanda”
Traditional architecture was, like other built features, conducive to the respect of cultural
rules. Beside increasing building safety, timber pillars or stilts enhanced privacy, reducing the
possibility of views inside the rooms. Like trees, the houses were planted in the soil, or later
fixed on concrete supports not covering a large part of the ground. The house floor was an
elevated “stage” (panggung). A device useful for ventilation, privacy, security, as well as for
preservation of the land: Once the house has been carried away, dismantled, or carried on
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timbers planks passing through the hole in the belira (horizontal reinforcements of the
Stairs are necessary to climb on the “panggung” house. They are comfortable to sit upon
their steps, back supported by the next step. They are not only props to display the family, but
observatories as well. Before the mobile phones, news could be obtained from there, while
past era
Not only the landscape of the Terengganu particular habitat could be considered as a
language that had words and even a “punctuation”, it was also a teaching tool, in its’s lay out,
it carried a message, akin to a lesson for the inhabitants and their guests. “Like myths and laws,
landscape narratives are a way of organizing reality, justifying actions, instructing, persuading,
even forcing people to perform in particular ways” wrote Anne Whiston Spirn (1998)
In the past era, a landscape especially the one of the houses and their gardens, had a
Following the metaphor on language, an important element from the qualitative point of
view of the language of the house compounds landscape are the lay out and the proper paths
around and towards the house or “the grammar” of the house compounds, The lay out and
relationship between the zones, the way components or features are organized within the frame
of that grammar. Which teaches how to walk properly in the compound, according to one’s
Independently of the “types” previously identified which often had particular signs of
belonging to a social category, similar space organization could be observed amongst the
compounds in the past era and a common plan lay out could be drawn (Appendix B, Pictures
and drawings)
The standard lay out of the traditional Malay house and garden, could clearly be described
as its organization followed a relatively similar common design. (Lim Jee Yuan, 1987). In
1988, Raja Bahrin had further noted the proper approach to the house was determinedaccording
to the genders of the visitors The role and Importance of the zones in a house compound as
directing the behavior of the inhabitants and that of the visitors, and led them according to their
Figure 5.10: a) A well determined lay out. Even With different social backgroud
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b) The man is received in front “Serambi” while the woman heads for the “dapor
Figure 5.11: Standard house compound lay out organization (Longuet, 2007,and in Delfolie
2019) well-defined lay out reference to cosmology Qiblat, to proper behaviour according to
gender and status and to the spaces uses inside the house
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House compounds Lay out and Articulation: towards the meaning of intangible features
Other than having a specific lay out, the house compounds were delimited -rarely- by full
fences or pagar, more by the placing of trees. Openings and communication wereimportant in
the society. Although the “aristocrat” type had a -rare- closed wall (“kota” or “fort”) for privacy
and security; yet, no less than five gates are found around the Kota Lamain Pulau Duyong.
They are quite elaborated openings or doors according to their function. One had a vast kolah
for visitors to wash their feet and take their ablutions, another one on the mosque side, with a
direct gate to the mosque for both Datuk Biji Sura and Dato Purba at the corner of the long
front verandah, one on the kitchen side, for the sellers of food and thosebringing ulam or fruit,
The “Clan house compounds” such as those of Tokku Paloh and Haji Yusof had titian jetties
that joined the main houses so that it was no need to step on the ground for members ofa family
Today with concrete houses, bungalows and villas or modest terrace house, the paths for
visitors or for activities around the house may vary. The zones are organized following diverse
designs according to the house owners’ preferences and builders means, taste, to the interior
Just as for modern bungalow has a planned proposed lay out with -outside the house, a
courtyard, a car park, and inside the house a living room, and other parts dedicated to different
activities, the house compounds lay out in the past were clearly determined, but their meaning
and purpose were different from today. Each lay out invites to a particular way of life.
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[From signs or “words” only, to structure and moral direction, an introduction to function
and imprinted behavior in the past. It tells of its format and it teaches it]
And further ‘the intangible aspect’ of the past landscape, not only a language but had an
ethologically formatting impact on the inhabitants of through its lay out, cultural elements
including flora and daily practice, (Konrad Lorenz’s on behaviour structuring, applied on
human beings),
According to previous research, the units -houses and gardens or house compounds which
composed the landscape of the traditional habitat of Terengganu in 2005 had evident cultural
value. They responded to numerous cultural criteria (as much as 16 criteria are mentioned)
according to various schools of landscape cultural studies /architecture. All answered criteria
such as: coherence, legibility, complexity and a good measure of homogeneity, historical and
aesthetic value. (cf. table on cultural criteria). Beyond their cultural value, The dominant
characteristics of these house compounds were that: they were hierarchical, symbiotic, and
functional, and that they expressed a common social adhesion to certain principles of conduct
i) Societal hierarchy
The place, the social status of the individual on this earth can be read in the external signs of
social rank. The main occupation is visible: hut granaries or palms ready to be woven
illustrate the "farm": or the "rakyat". A "serambi" (long ornate veranda) as in Tukku Paloh's
house or an anjung porch (closed and decorated) as in Jalan Haji Jamil, were signs of
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privileged status to which the commoners did not claim. The good manners of the Malay
custom (adat) command the respect for the status of important personalities (orang besar).
They may be decorated by ornamental species as was the now restored “Kota LamaDuyong”
The acceptance by the individual of his place in society, can be seen as a faint trace of
Hindu castes or a reflection of an interpretation of the Muslim concept of takdir (destiny). The
pride of the individual is found in the dignity of the master craftsman (tukang besar), the
skipper of a fishing boat (jeragan), their carefully constructed residencies in Jalan Kamarudin
and Pulau Ketam expressing their class apart and personal standing within the "Rakyat" type.
The cosmic orientation of the houses following the direction of the qiblat, results in the
fact that the lambur or verandah, located on the area that receives the light of the rising sun -
place where clothes can be quickly dried, and where leisurely conversations can be held in
the shade of the afternoon. In fact, household occupations are held at similar times and in
A second aspect of the philosophy of life expressed in the houses and gardens observed
is that of the symbiosis with the natural environment. First. through the many uses of nature's
products: Pandanus for mats, terape for showers, cengal for masts. The natural environment
makes available wild species (mengkudu, terajang, teja, sembung). It is used for spices and
herbs, for fragrance and ornamentation which are planted such as Inai (Lawsonia inermis)
and Bidara (Zizyphus mauritiana), -appreciated for their particular values and religious
brotherhood with nature (Syed Naquib Al-attas, 1989). As expressed by villagers: "The trees
rise towards the sky, it is their doa” -their prayer”, explained an elderly lady in Pulau Duyong;
and traditional healers recommend to look for lines or "urat " -veins that appear in the wood
The compound is usually open or marked only by trees. The wall of the Kota Lama in
Duyong has been built but is pierced with no less than five entrances indicating an active social
network, each one dedicated to a particular use: to receive the family, the merchants, the friends
The religious significance identical direction of main ridge of the roof (tulang perabung)
of the main building not only indicates the respect of the direction of the prayers, but it results
The symbiosis which consists in sharing the life of the neighbors is reinforced by the custom
of making reciprocal visits, on the occasions of marriages, deaths, illnesses, births. The
"neighborhood" has been defined by the forty houses around the surroundings of the house.
Raja Bahrin (1988) suggests a definition by the reach of the call to prayer. To this can be added
the various communities to which the inhabitants of a house had participated, such as the
iii) Function
At a first practical level, the houses and gardens appear above all as functional units, an
architectural response to the tropical climate. Production activities- food, fish kerupuk
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craftmanship carvings, batik printing- allow to earn a living (mencari rezeki) from the house
or around it. The whole gives an impression of independence from the outside. The house and
-Cosmic With the orientation of the houses following the direction of the qiblat, the
lambur or verandah located on the area that receives the light of the rising sun -place where
sarong can be quickly dried, and where leisurely conversations can be held in the shade of the
-Practical The second aspect of the philosophy of life expressed in the houses and gardens
observed is that of the symbiosis with the natural environment. First through the many uses of
nature's products: Pandanus for mats, terape for showers, cengal for masts. The natural
environment makes available wild species (mengkudu, terajang, teja, sembung). It is used for
spices and herbs, for fragrance and ornamentation which are planted as well as hennin and
bidara (Zizyphus mauritania), appreciated for their value and religious connotation, and they
brotherhood with nature (Syed Naquib Al-attas, 1989). As explained by villagers: "The trees
rise towards the sky, it is their doa” -their prayer”, explained an elderly lady in Pulau Duyong;
traditional healers recommend to look for lines or "urat " -veins that appear in the wood and
-Openness: wall of the Kota Lama in Duyong has been built but is pierced with no less than
six entrances indicating an active social network, each one dedicated to a particular use:
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to receive the family, the merchants, the friends of the judge or of important persons or to go
-Religious The identical direction of main ridge of the roof (tulang perabung) of the main
building not only indicates the respect of the direction of the prayers, but it results in a
simultaneous exposure to sunlight which in turn results in simultaneity in the activities of daily
-Communal The symbiosis which consists in sharing the life of the neighbours is reinforced
by the custom of making reciprocal visits, on the occasions of marriages, deaths, illnesses,
births. The "neighbourhood" has been defined by the forty houses around the surroundings of
the house. Raja Bahrin (….) suggests a definition by the reach of the call to prayer -without the
microphone perhaps.
c) Function
At a first practical level, the houses and gardens appear above all as functional units, an
architectural response to the tropical climate. Production activities- food, fish kerupuk
craftmanship carvings, bateq printing- allow to earn a living (mencari rezeki) from the house
or around it. The whole gives an impression of independence from the outside. The house and
But this is not all the functionality referred to by Haji Mohamad Yusof for twenty years,
director of the Terengganu State Museum. For him, he explained in an interview (2018), the
houses and gardens of Terengganu have two main important characters: They are first,beautiful
in the frequency of ornamental plants, and second, functional, through the usefulness of their
in everyday life as described above (for example in the separation of the sexes for visitors) and
because, built on stilt and having a “serambi” or a “lambuh” verandah, they ensure the
protection of privacy. De facto, the habitat was ethologically structuring the behavior of the
inhabitants. Through non-verbal but tangible and intangible signs, it was teaching the people
living in the so specially conceived compounds, to follow the rules and principle of the society.
Konrad Lorenz ( )
The architecture of the house, besides the fact that it can be invested with a cosmological
interpretation (Muhammad Affandi Yahaya 1995, Ismail Said 2005), in a space loaded with
symbolic meaning, has a further role: The didactic-ethological function, guiding people
behavior- in the house and its surrounding compound, is to provide the inhabitants with an
function is based on built structures (Cosmological orientation of the dwellings, the cleaning
accessories such as the wells and their paraphernalia, zones and elements, customs (adab) -
stairs, floor levels, height of the buildings (which has a role in insuring privacy). At the same
time, it is reinforced for the younger generation by the presence and the traditional knowledge
of the elderly people with whom they live. These two elements -built- including floral and
traditional plant species environment- and alive, in the form of elders, of the habitat, are
essential for the sustainability of the social model and for its transmission. Similar to the
the past was a microcosm which materialized a content of thought and a philosophy of life
which had been developed over time. It was integral part and mirror of the vision of the world
to which the inhabitants had subscribed during their history. The depth and extent of this mental
implantation is described by the holistic ecology which qualifies units of human habitat -as
“holons”. “Holon” are at the same time whole in themselves and a part of a macrosystem. The
term was found appropriate for the house compounds-, with their heritage made of three
spheres - noosphere, biosphere and techno-sphere. composing a holistic entity which further
refers to a “supra-system” (Zev Naveh and Arthur Lieberman, 1994) as the tenants of a holistic
Figure 5.12: (From MA, 2005). A typical Terengganu house compound interpreted in a holistic
ecological landscape perspective or Total Holistic Ecology. “Past Era”. (Schema by the author)
referring to a traditional “supra-system”
Formatting in the Present Era (Zev Naveh, 2000 “holon” and “supra-system”) implies
survival), Technosphere (State History) replaced by: for Noosphere, by School and Science,
for Biosphere by Market and global Resources and for Technosphere replaced by Fintech, the
As cascading results of the changes are seen in the house compounds, the inhabitants are
moving from having being rooted in the Past each in their own “microcosm” or “holon”
house and place to becoming cogs in the global machine of the modern supra-system… Or
individuals linked to a network of global opportunities. From the self-contained former “holon”
The causes of the noted changes are multiple, each adding to the other: costs of building
materials, space availability, jobs imperatives, plants bought and not grown anymore or
collected around the houses such as inai -henna- and post-partum sets bought from Indonesia
etc., demise of elders who remembered the traditions of the Qiblat direction for the main roof
ridge of a house(the tulang perabung towards Mekka, and the “door of the resources” (the pintu
dapur belakan rumah called “pintu rezeki”)…- or the name of the kitchen door.,
of loss of ancient directions in life appears, and new bearings have to be found. Some measure
(2006): “The individual has to willingly understand the framework of cascades to move
is critical to the arising modern society”. As a result of these changes in the situation of
individuals, in the formerly traditional, East Coast state, a representation of the new
The changes that have happened carry consequences in other domains, through cascades or
connected changes, while a loss of identity is observed. The typology of the housecompounds
based on a traditional society soon will not be valid. The landscapes types in Terengganu cannot
This means that today the habitat landscape can express a different social structure where
From the analysis of the evolution of both habitats, floral and human in the landscape of
Terengganu, Orang Asli and villagers shared the benefits of a common didactic role of the
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landscape: the one built, the other learned. That role has been disrupted by the annihilation of
the paths. Both the Orang Asli direct “learning” and the villagers’ inbuilt pedagogy/lessons
disappear. So will the -traditional “Ilmu”. In places, it is not only the paths that do not exist
The reference supra-systems have changed. Business considerations have appeared for
development of medicine. Plants species and cultural features are transformed and re-
purposed. Knowledge on medicinal plants, timber architecture and craftmanship is less known
5.7 Conclusions
Three levels of change are identified, based on the present study of the floral and cultural
Changes appear mostly at the first two levels. Change is not so evident at the spiritual level
where an awareness of change seems to be accompanied with a lack of adhesion or interest for
For the vegetal environment, useful links have been cut. In the villages, climbing ropes of
Vitis, Mikania, Curcumis, Passiflora, Wedelia, spread over the vegetation and timber houses.
Trees species quickly invade: Terminalia cattapa, Hibiscus tilliaceus, Morinda, Premna
foetida, Ficus, Leucaena leucoI, meanwhile, ornamental species express the gentrification of
the house gardens. The forested zones are burdened with the dilemmas of revenue from
logging, mines and silica. The land still covered with vegetal growth is re-purposed, following
a global trend in perception of nature uses for -athleticism, “peaking”, hiking trails, forests
exploration, parks, corridors, tourism, while reappears the renewed emergence of the
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idea that nature needs to be preserved. A concept that can be interpreted religiously in the
For the built environment, it is muted in its messages. Its “words”, its significant
“punctuation”, even if preserved, while remaining, are signs of a past culture. They become
obsolete and join ornamental, “souvenir” features. The imbedded lay out or “grammar” with
its moral guidance is less understood. The house compounds flora and accessories expressing
a way of life, the “types” of house compounds previously (2005) based on the appearance of
traditional social signals, are not valid anymore. They are progressively replaced by houses,
residences, were buildings, gardens, plants and ornaments are rather based on financial means
of the owners or desire to evoke these, reflecting the prevalence of a new “supra-system.”
Landscape impacting exogenous events had been ambitious and deliberate, while on the
ground, in the visited sites, endogenous events, although less ambitious, have occurred that had
as well a strong influence on the landscapes as well as on the lives of the inhabitants. During
the field visits and impromptu interviews, the causes of these changes have been evoked. These
can be summarized as: -an augmentation of the population, legal problems concerning land and
and gardening.
habitats: the habitat of the plants, and the one of the people. Added to these, is the “cascading”
abandoned houses, are the cost of land, the cost of repairs in timber construction, associated to
are often linked with a modern life supported by media and school, such as the quest for a job
outside the residence, with a need for specialized education, and transports away from the rural
house garden halaman. The hypothesis advanced in Chapter 1, seems being verified: new times
have emerged, and they are perhaps steps toward a new civilization.
From the ecological point of view, the steps of a move towards new times can be
summarized in the two columns of its parallel dynamics in the floral environment ( I-” Plant
ecology”) and in the built environment (II, “Human ecology” which includes “cultural and
To conclude, from the present era field reviews, it appears that the people in Terengganu
seem to have abandoned many of their links with their floral environment. Not having the
opportunity to practice skills in using the natural resources, they have de facto lost an
independence vis a vis the faster obtained products from the commercial world. Their built
environment, having lost many of its culturally significant features, reveals a present lack of
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identity and, in some cases, causes a feeling of a loss of bearings, like in other countries in
the world, to which it has been alluded, from China (Yunnan), to Japan, from South America
(Bolivia) to the Middle East (Turkey). These moves in both environments reinforce each
other and can contribute to propel young generations towards a different way of life in the
present era.
The change is perhaps deeper, more loaded with significance and consequences than straight
forward narrative descriptions or inventories over time would mean. The future of the
traditional relationship of the people with their flora and cultural features is perhaps in jeopardy
in the modern times, although that relationship is still valued and remembered. Further
approaches will assist in qualifying the witnessed evolution in the following chapter.
CHAPTER 6
The review of the changes that have happened, materializing the beginning of the rise of a
new world, marks the first step towards answers to new questions of -how change is handled
in the state? -what needs to be preserved from the ancient concepts in floral landscape and
This chapter tells of the diversity in the ways people may live in Terengganu in the present
time. It reports disturbances and losses occurred in the forests areas and the efforts that were
made to remediate to theses. The sudden change in the availability of traditional building
material and space is underscored, while, within the uncertainty of the future, the potential
An interesting aspect of the situation in Terengganu in the present era is that successive
interpretations of human life on the land can be witnessed. As seen in the precedent surveys,
the state provides a lesson in diversity of human habitat and on the relationship of the people
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with the flora and with the land. As far as the built environment is concerned, housing
concepts and priorities for everyday living vary there considerably. Diverse human habitat
alternatives or “shelters” are still observable. Each has specific features which reveal different
preoccupations amongst the occupants, the builders of these shelters, official and business
decision makers.
The first form of habitat is the hayak. As seen in C4 in Kuala Sayap, that “house” is a shelter
built of palms or bamboo and small trees from the forest on 50 cm stilts, with a platform, to rest
and store a few belongings. The hayak can be grouped by four or six, set in a semi circle around
a fire. A stream is located at a convenient distance for water use, and toilet. An other hayak with
perhaps a fire may be placed at small distance. Food is collected from the environing forest
and streams or bought in exchange for forest products. Important features are the forest itself,
the water nearby and the fire that completes the facilities.
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The second form of “shelter”is the rumah berpeleh or any other style of the traditional house
with a compound. Built on stout wooden pillars supporting a pointed roof of clay tiles, the
rumah is oriented towards the Qiblat. A central feature is, on the ground, the well, source of
water and cleaning. Life routines -work, rest, play, sleep- are conducted as much outside(di
halaman) as inside the house. In the present era, piped water and electricity have moved these
activities towards the interior. Food is gathered from trees, domestic animals, from a family
fishing boat and, in the past, greens from close-by footpaths. The height of the pillars provides
privacy, increased ventilation and protection from the floods. Important features are:
Another form is the terrace house or bungalow: Set on a concrete platform, built with
concrete or bricks and plastered walls, the terrace house uses modern materials and follows a
classic Western inspired design. The walls of the house or of the garden protect privacy. Cars
are parked in front of the house. The entrance leads to a space called the “living room”. where
guests are welcome, inside the house. The orientation of the house is dictated by the most
financially suitable use of the land. On advertisements, the direction of the qiblat is indicated
for the “Bumiputra” (Malay) prospective buyers. Access through a road as well as the piped in
The more recent and different form is the high-rise apartment building, quite a new
people in a given space for urban living. The “apart-ments” multistorey building is full of
inhabitants yet it still keeps them physically apart. The decisive/necessary features of a “life
in the sky” are the lift, access to urban facilities, communications, highways, shopping centers
From answering the need of a shelter to a business proposition, the range of building options
is vast. Another significant aspect of the relationship of the people with the land appears is how
The nomadic hayak does not impact the land. The traditional village house can be
moved away, and the land is not affected. The terrace or bungalow style covers the land with
a layer of stones and concrete while the heigh rise building is “planted” on deep pilling. These
different techniques imply different perceptions of the local ecosystem and land and how
human beings may settle on it and interfere with it. The choice is perhaps not open anymore in
a developing state that is now following international models of land use and identification
such as “city”. “suburbs”, and “rural” areas. In Kuala Nerus, the future “Putrajaya of
Terengganu”, promises a modern city that will house rows of terrace houses, high rise towers,
offices, and shopping centers with ready-made facilities. The ancient type of “shelters” needs
forest and timber. It is uncertain if the forest habitat and the timber material can serve their
former purpose within the modern context. However, new conceptsof closeness with nature
The first study on the cultural landscape from this researcher had been motivated by the
observation that part of that landscape, although still present enough to be recorded (through
detailed descriptions and evaluation of conformity to cultural criteria), was facing the danger
of a relative disappearance because of numerous contextual changes. The objective, then, was
to document the house compounds and their floral and architectural environment, when many
of these compounds were still observable in their integrity. The objective of the present study
has been re-visits, ten to fifteen years later, in the previously studied areas, -to which were
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added other places and further observations amongst the diverse landscapes of Terengganu.
The questions this time were: has the trend toward change been confirmed, and has a new era
arrived, uprooting -as it were, the past? Has an ancient era been replaced by a new one, within
a context of globalization? If so, what are the reactions of the people of Terengganu and what
future is awaiting the former traditional state? Is the “past” past? and is the future there?
What are the visible reactions of the people in Terengganu? Some answers to these
questions are summarized in the following parts, first for the changes in the flora, then for the
Today, forests, landscapes, and plant species are valued assets for research, enjoyment,
tourism and education. A nostalgia reaches padi fields (which for example, have even become
an attraction for a restaurant in a rice field in Nerus), sea sides, wetlands, and coconut groves
are appreciated for their authenticity. However, during recent times, serious incidents have
occurred.
A measles epidemy spread in Kula Koh, from water pollution: Some Orang asli in Kelantan
had noticed the effect of the water changes in the rivers, consequences which were attributed
to -legal- mining (gold: mercury was mentioned) and logging. Death cases were signaled,
reaching 15 cases and were reported in the media. Bateq people from Kuala Koh moved to
Sungai Berua in Terengganu, near the Bateq and Semoq Beri settlements where some
individuals were contaminated. The Bateq and Semoq Beri moved temporarily North to
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Gerdong area. Perhaps that is when a new settlement was built and a sewang ceremony was
held (cf. map and report in Chapter 4, -Forest hills and Orang Asli.).
In the hill of Belara, between Nerus and Sungai Tong, deforestation was authorized in the
private orchards would suffer from the disappearance of pollinating insects and other animals.
The Palm oil project was abandoned, but not timber logging.
In the area of Kenyir Lake, the Lasir waterfall -a much visited small river of clear waters
rolling over rocks- suddenly took a milky orange color. Long ago authorized logging was
started in a hurry, with lorries and earth roads, and as much as possible, as soon as it had been
heard that the area would be included within the limits of a new State Park.
Figure 6.2: Lasir waterfall 19 Julai 2019: impact of a hurried last logging; now (2022)
restored, and part of the State Park.
6.2.2 Rescues
In Basong, near the Kenyir dam, NGO “Rimba” organized photography traps to
documents animals (especially the local Panthera) present in the remaining forest around the
lake. To preserve the life of large animals, the forest had to be preserved as well. The Sultan
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of Terengganu figured in a documentary on his support to the conservation of the tigers from
the state. Local universities were involved in making known the assets of the remaining
forested land around the Kenyir Lake. Uniza lecturer Ramle Abdullah (1993) studied the beliefs
of the Semoq Beri, Dr. Tajuddin Abdullah (2018) campaigned for the creation of a Geopark in
Collaboration for the creation of a state parks private organizations from outside the state
Figure 6.3: Map of the newly created State Parks around Kenyir Lake
Rimba is now closing its operations as such, but the works is continuing, through NBS
(Nature based solutions) and carbon dioxide budget. On their side, the Orang Asli are called
to assist in the work of the many agencies of the state that are involved in the protection
or/exploitation of the forest such as Perlihitan (Perlindungan Hidupan Liar dan Taman Negara),
Private voices and initiatives from individuals in the state express the concern of the local
people for the destruction of the natural environment, from the poet and lecturer Marzuki Ali
(2003), to singer Naquib Mohammed who denounces the tangan yang rakus the “greedy
In 2014, photographer Dome Nikong (Suhairi Zakaria) who lives at the end of a row
Sungai Tong is a pioneer’s small town on the road from Besut to Kuala Terengganu. The
Felda building, some shops, and secondary schools animate the place. The area is surrounded
with palm oil plantations, lorries heading on newly opened roads towards the forests being
logged. Orchids flowers bloomed under the sun, then died. Dome collected them and started
to plant them in his courtyard. to preserve their life and their beauty. After the orchids came
the Hoyas, the periuk kera Nepenthes, and the gingers. Dome reproduced a forest climate
atmosphere in his garden, laying stones on the ground to keep it cool and shade hanging nets
under the sky. Specialists identified or confirmed his findings on the species he brought back
from trips in forest. His “Wild dome Conservatory” is now reputed among the botanists from
over the world for Thysmia domei, Thysmia Siti Munirah, after Dome’s mother. In 2010
During photography work, Dome had been attracted to the indigenous peoples in Malaysia,
and while back in Terengganu, he became close with the Bateq community who live in Kelantan
in Kuala Koh while other small groups are in Terengganu. Dome discovered their knowledge,
their ability to live in the forest, their sumpit, and combs, the children, and in the flower season,
their many decorations, all subjects for the photographer’s evocative images of their life in the
forest. Together with singer Naquib, they produced “Rimba yang di lukai” a musical video that
From Cep bap hep (Bateq) to masuk hutan (Malay) and “hiking”, there are nowadays
many ways to enter the forest, in Terengganu as in other countries where the forest used to be
“Hiking” -going for long walks in rural or forested areas for the pleasure of visiting- is
different of the objectives of forest visitors of the past, in the ninety eighties, when they
gathered in small groups of less than ten people, during the hunting season. Different also of
“masuk hutan” -to go in the forest to find particular plants species for individual use, or as in
the past, -capture a beruk -monkey- in a cage. It is neither enter without a permit to collect
candan (gaharu) nor wild animals body parts for sale, -as sometimes foreign (Cambodia and
Vietnam) poachers did and still do (Dome report 2021 and forest officer’s confirmation 2022.
It is not like the Bateq who would walk into the forest around their hayak place to collect plants
and learn about the latest developments on the land from the trees and the paths.
“Hiking” today in the forest or any rural area is for the pleasure of it, for the health benefit
as well. Those who were looking for animals, plants or fish, for food or sale, have now to share
with people in search of nature, in search of change, and of another world than work, cars, and
shopping malls.
The lists of lata waterfalls proposed to ecotourism in Terengganu has increased. Beyond the
already much visited Lata of the North -Lata Belatang, Lata Tembaka, Lata Lawit, Lata Lasir,
(that became orange in color from an emergency logging when logging was done just before
actual preservation of the place as it was to become part of the Kenyir Park), then Lata Payung,
State universities are active studying and researching the local floral assets: At UNISZA
Ficus deltoides …At UMT, in 2018, Doctor Abdul Ghani who had created a medicinal garden
in Pulau Pinang had the occasion to meet Dr. Fadzilah Adibah who’s laboratory had just
completed work on Backea frutescens -Cucur atap. One of the results was the production of a
Both scientists mentioned Harun Mat Piah’s work on the “Tradisyonal Ubat” and agreed
that “professors of medicine and shaman should work together” and would make medicinal
discoveries (Just as phyto-chemist Christian Wiard (2002) or pharmacist Daniel Jean (1983);
meanwhile, all the possible uses of the Melaleuca cajuputi are being explored, including (Dr
Fadzilah, 2018) elaborated a medicine for shrimps attacked by a… for which present cure is
expensive.
“Development of high value Herbal Medicine” at the INOS auditorium Prof. Dr Fadzilah
delivered a talk on “High-value Herbal Products” and reminded of the danger of extinction
for the medicinal species of which the roots are the most reputed. Dr Abdul Ghani Hussain
talked about the “Traditional Malay Herbs”. He underscored the importance of returning to the
symptomatology and proposed treatments. However as in 1983, French Lab Director Daniel
Jean “Medicaments Nature et Chimie”, who was doing research with local practitioners and
phyto-chemists at University Malaya had already warned: The laboratories that pursue research
on plants species have to cross many hurdles before their findings may be authorized
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and marketed. This is due to stringy regulations, the USA Food and Drug Administration
An observed a percentage of 10% diminution of plant species in surveyed areas of the floral
environment reported in chapter 5 may not seem overly significant. However, it has been noted
as well that the disappeared species were so common and taken for granted that their loss is
rarely noticed by the inhabitants [(Survey questionaries 2022)] until it is signaled by a visitor.
Often, even uses of common trees such the Terajang -Lepisanthes kuntsleri- or Bebuas -Premna
cordifolia- are now forgotten. Adults (30 to 60 years old) refer to their own parents to find
answers for the uses of the species. The reason invoked is the lack oftransmission of traditional
From time to time, old town areas are marked for intended development. As seen in
Chapter 4, in 2005, a large area of old wooden houses at the back of Jalan Kampong Cina in
the center of Kuala Terengganu had been demolished to leave place for “proper town”
development. It is still today (2022) left to abundant belukar and some rare, improvised
intruders camps. In 2010, to prepare the way for the planned KTCC -Kuala Terengganu future
City Center, wooden houses in Tanjong had to be demolished, while at the end of Seberang
Takir on a former large beach, reclaimed land was added, moving the estuary from the North-
In the villages, often close to town, but not exclusively, vast, previously stately timber
residences have been left for ten years without occupants, for lack of heirs or all of them
being busy having their own life somewhere else. Some buildings have been moved and their
timber re-used.
Figure 6.4: a) 2020: A uninhabited house in Pulau Duyong: climbers escalated the walls. B)
2022: Mango trees, gerai, serambi are gone. 2022: concrete house with zinc roof is built next
to it.
The halaman house compounds and the timber houses of the past are abandoned (as in the
row of traditional timber buildings in Ladang in Kuala Terengganu), not only because the
government develops the area into a “true” urban zone, but also, in places not -yet- marked
for acquisition, but also because the heirs have their own houses, or the heritage sharing is time
consuming, or sometimes because there are no heirs [(pic stone bases left, trees, and elegance
Traditional architecture has been valued, even in the past era. As early as 1996, informed by
the Badan Warisan (supported by Raja Bahrin and inhabitants of Pulau Duyung) and after the
1986 floods which left derelict the Kota Lama built by Dato Biji Sura in Pulau Duyung,
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the Minister of Culture and Arts of Malaysia decided to have it restored. One non-descript
bujang berpeleh house that had been built inside the Kota was carried by the villagers out of
the walls of the “fort” (The Kota). About 30 men -neighbors, relatives of Datok Biji Sura and
Museum employees working together, held long timber pieces on their shoulders. In 1996, A
student from the USA made the first drafts and a team from the University Technology
Malaysia, executed the drawings. A contractor from Kuala Terengganu was appointed by the
State Museum, and in 1999, visitors could enter the totally restored “Kota Lama Duyong”.
They would appreciate the gathering of the varied architecture and ornaments that includes
Corinthian capitals and Islamic calligraphic carvings. The walls are built out of clay bricks,
In the surroundings, few of the previously aristocratic houses with mempeleh fasciaboards
have resisted the passage of time. Yet, in the Present eEa, in the rather derelict island of Duyung
Kecil, the Kota Lama, a building from the past, remains, witness of sophistication and wealth.
More recently, in 2017, in Kampong Losong, Kuala Terengganu two linked timber houses
of different style have been restored and opened to the public by the State Museum. One is a
rare gathering of three bujang berpeleh houses built in the middle of the 19th century by
wealthy trader cum sailing boats owner Haji Mat Kaya. It has a long serambi from where the
family members could watch silat performances. The second house, also in timber, evokes a
European two-story town house, with paneled windows and two wings. However, the main
These three preserved and restored buildings are a testimony of innovative architecture and
craftmanship of the past, where foreign features are integrated in a vernacular design,
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using local material. The state museum is reported to have researched more ancient houses of
similar creative spirit around Kuala Terengganu town. Around the restored buildings, a few
still known traditional plant species are grown, although independently of their original
location. A tall Tongkat Ali -Eurycoma longifolia -a wild hill species, is near the kitchen of the
Kota Lama, while Meninjau (Gnetum gnemon). Merungai (Moringa oleifora) and Bidara
Private initiatives have illustrated the continued appreciation of the people of Terengganu
for the artistic value and craftsmanship of their traditional houses. Members of the royal family
have gathered, bought and rebuilt bujang berpeleh houses (Aryani and Pura Tanjung Sabtu -
unfortunately, they were not able to pursue). Businessman Alex Lee, (-his father shophouse in
Marang was such a traditional building with an intricate carving on the serambi/balcony-), has
organized a grandiose gathering of such “palaces” as their owner dubs them, in “Terrapuri”
near Kampong Mangkok, in the North of the state. He has as wellstarted a project on
True craft and passion teaching continuity has been assured by craftsmen from Northern
areas of Terengganu, in Kampong Raja in Besut, by Norhaiza Noordin and Rosnawati the wife
Figure 6.5: Janda –(jendela)- berhias- wall in Bakawali Sari Warisan, Kampong Raja
As well as other gatherings of traditional houses…Magnificent heritage in tradition versatility
in design
Figure 6.6: a) The curves of a box window in Kampong Ladang: creativity in the Past Era:
foreign design for a feauture, local material, b) individual preferences, local material, in
Sungai Durhaka, “dangau” gazebo added, beach Cycas species planted.
Rebuilding, reconstitutions, or modern use, for private use, ancient or modern houses on
stilts.
Figure 6.7: Modern efforts for architectural resilience: a) Twin bujang berpeles to be re- used
(Sungai Durhaka) b) Concrete house on stilt columns and “atap belanda” (Pulau Duyong)
In Kuala-Terengganu which has received officially the title of “Heritage city by the water”,
population growth has been continuous: 304 181 inhabitants in 2000, 295 591 to 343 2010 in
2010 to 390 948 in 2021 That rate has slowed down recently, yet, the population is expected
to reach 404 707 in 2023. (Official Statistics …) A Project for a convenient and well-planned
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urban area was started in Bukit Depu around Sungai Depu, among the former paddy fields,
Some coastal reclamations and other projects have not been realized such as in “Sun City”
and “KT City Center North”. In reality, today: Water and electricity facilities serve for foods
trucks and boulders covers beaches dubbed “Miami” and “La Corniche”. The sea has reclaimed
the beaches that was deemed to provide the “Riviera” feeling. In town itself, as seen in Chapter
four, corporate investors have not materialized for the city center project at the back of the
active and preserved identity Kampong China street. Weeds and secondary growth have waited
for now 12 years for the planned reconstruction. That part of town had in the Past Era, a brick
and stucco house, a small mosque, a well, many timber houses ornamented with carvings,
timber walkways and rows of planted common medicinal species. As described in Chapter 4,
it had a life of its own that attracted visitors, photographers and painters.
brought new developments: Through the “Bandar Baru Kuala Nerus” on the North East side of
the Nerus river estuary, Kuala Terengganu is destined to have its own Putrajaya. The former
Nipah and Melaleuca swamps have been transformed into a planned base infrastructure for
administrative and commercial centers, with a lake and a modern architecture mosque, waiting
Figure 6.8: a) Facilities ready to welcome new inhabitants b) A new mosque for a new era
and “Kuala Nerus Baru” a former Melaleuca cajuputi mangrove, the future “Putrajaya
Terengganu” waits for investments and future inhabitants
Real estate re-appropriates the nostalgia. Their advertisements celebrate peace, trees,
resuscitated on a roof platform with potted plants. As in In Kuala Lumpur, the concept of
“vertical kampung” (S.J. Kassim, 2017) is searched for. “Green” is also a key word, as well
as community facilities to evoke the village atmosphere, with gymnasium, brisk walk paths
[Lists of floral assets (even though its plant species were not specific to Malaysia). and
descriptive summaries past/ present (From data in C4 visits re-visits) particularly in the
Analysis: Causes of the losses: in the sample (46 species), and generally (Reference to table
of impacting events which is valid for both environments flora and built, so present it at the
[Consequence: Loss of ages-old link with nature: going… gone thread after thread.]
On the forest and Orang Asli side, in the Kuala Sayap area, since the nineties, plantations
have conquered much land and the Bateq -FELCRA share-holders drive by car to their
destination. In Sungai Berua, the forest people have to walk or ride a raft, a motorized
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sampan or their motorcycle further to reach their sources of bamboo, Gaharu or rotan, and find
food. Still, a few specialists from Sungai Berua may offer to guide hiking visitors and
researchers, and show, on the way, some medicinal plants they are familiar with.
From the observations and data gathering over 1982 to 2022, spanning more than one
generation, it appears that the technological change brought about by the arrival of fuel
powered energy has impacted the whole life of the people in Terengganu. Electricity replaced
salt in food preservation, brought its comfort to households. Electricity was then completed
by digital communications. Piped water rendered jar containers less necessary. In villages,
mobile phones replaced the “stairs observatories” and shopping online became handy during
Modernization -as far as landscapes, plants and people are considered, has meant a triple
6.4.1 Nostalgia and loss of Bearings: People Reactions and Some unchanged Features
Identity signs -social status, main activity, or craft-, formerly readable in the landscape of
the house compounds, as these have lost more than 40% of cultural and ground features, does
not seem to be replaced enough by decorative finials on some Present Era concrete houses.
However, three examples of ground furniture deserve to be singled out because they
demonstrate an important aspect of the Terengganu habitat: the “no change” status of some
resilient features of in the inhabitants’ ” way of life” (or at the “existential level”).
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A first example of such a significant “no change” feature is a modest cooking tool: the large
iron tripods (“dapur kaki”) often found under houses and taken out for preparing food for an
Figure 6.9: a) Cooking tripod in Kampong Padang Air for communal foodand b) Public
bench under The Sultan Mahmud Bridge another by the jetty in Duyong Kecil, c) Praying
together before re-building the “ tiang 12” “ surau” building in Losong
Ground furniture such as the “home made” gerai -open air resting benches- made of planks
where a few people can sit with extended legs and rest their back, are rarely described. They
have not gained the status of actual furniture and are not found in shops nor commissioned to
craftsmen. They are usually built by volunteers on a free public spot with any available wood
material andare still eagerly used for resting after work or in impromptu meetings.
A third important feature of the village landscape, are the surau or Islamic chapels. The
activities around and inside these buildings have been mentioned (for “the “Clan” type of house
compounds) and are worthy of a special attention: They express the communityactivity and
the commune faith of the inhabitants of the place where they are built.
351
Figure 6.10: a) 2007: Pic of the Surau in Kuala Hiliran; b) 2021: Maintenance: Taller pillars
to protect the building from floods, with new stairs and a garden
These three examples of ground features are a manifestation of the community spirit of the
inhabitants. Just as the Terengganu people answer the call of a gotong royong- community
work, they still share food together, together they rest, and together they pray.
Figure 6.11: Community Prayers at the beginning of the restoration of the Surau Haji
Latif in Kampong Losong;
The nostalgia of the disappearing past exists. Setanjak cloth headdress reappears. “Wakaf”
sheds have survived in courtyards ornamented with all details the house owners may found to
denounced. Awang Goneng (2010) has qualified of “Earth trembling barbarism” the demolition
countries where formerly coherent ancient human ecosystems have not survived, the
society emerge. In Duyong Kecil recently, about 50 m from the Kota Lama, in the now derelict
surroundings, a drug peddler -a figure not uncommon nowadays- was seen, pursued by
policemen.
a “formatting”, or ethologically didactic environment, and -in ways- limiting the freedom of
the individuals, is regretted. That regret is expressed in the medias, and in academy, because
of consequences that it may have on the psyche of the inhabitants such as the loss of their
Traditional assets, floral and built, are still understood as the roots of the people identity,
autonomy and trust in themselves. Haji Mohammed Yusof, for more than twenty years the
Director of the Terengganu State Museum, wrote, in 2015: “We must look for what is specific
of us and is hidden in ourselves, and not to copy the character of other people. We must deepen
and appreciate our cultural values and our traditions and at the same time preserve the original
characters of the shapes established by our ancestors since centuries as this is the fundament of
There is a disparity or dichotomy, between two worlds in the present era: the one of
“fintech” and the one of spiritual life. Ambitious for the state, Chief Minister Idris Jusoh had
paradoxically a return to religiosity and conservative choices. The Islamic party was brought
to power again in 2018, and has been maintained in the recent elections of 2022.
In 2017, during an artistic event that took place in Pulau Duyong, the daughter of teacher
Abdullah Embong. has declaimed her father’s poem of in front of the gigantic cranes. The
machines were digging sand in the estuary to reclaim land for the future “KTCC North”, the
ECRD vision of a Kuala Terengganu town that would spread over the estuary, bringing more
activities -geriatric hotels for wealthy elders, private colleges and sports centers (Appendix C).
She ended, proclaiming: “Warisan kita, warisan tercinta: rumah merdeka”, “Our heritage,
beloved heritage: the house of our freedom”. “Heritage, house, freedom”: three important
concepts linked to each other and perceived by the inhabitants of Terengganu as related also
to the values formerly expressed in the traditional habitat -such as the cosmological dimension
of life and built-in Islamic teachings. These values that they do not want to see disappear, as
they are understood as fundamental aspects of their identity and of the place of human beings
in the universe.
In the estuary of the Terengganu River, in an area already mentioned for its museum
private initiative in Kampong Losong. An ancient surau (Muslim chapel) is extended and
Figure 6.12: Surau Wan Latiff: a) in 2020, with asbestos roof b) Restoration design drawing
Remaining chengal wood -walls, doors, floors and original bearing timbers are re-used.
Anonymously, family, friends and people who remember the activities of religious teacher Wan
Latif have undertaken to have the roof restored with pemeleh facia boards and using the original
papan kembung relief planking. The former neighboring simple pondok -students huts- will
replaced by a -concrete madrasah -teaching school- with an entrance echoing the stucco neo-
6.4.3 Conclusions on the change observed in this work and the resilience of a legacy
The present study has shown that, over the years, change has brought a gap with nature, a
loss of identity and a loss of independence vis-à-vis the commercially produced goods.
Trends towards change have been identified. Significant modifying events have occurred,
yet, the reactions of the inhabitants do not indicate a deep desire of change nor the reality of it.
In Terengganu, -redha (compliant) style-, the people do not oppose, neither adopt a new
global destiny.
355
inseparable from development, are now questioned. The recent Pandemic and Climate Change
process are now globally understood as warnings for a slowing down of nature exploitation
(COP27). Among the changes evoked in this work, Terengganu “Darul-Iman” persistent
characteristics: -the people’s symbolic and syncretic thinking, their continued attachment to
ancient craftsmanship, their sense of community and their strongly maintained religious faith-
, remain a legacy, the resilience of which may help create a balance and identify directions for
As reminded Abdullah Mohd Salleh, President of the Badan Warisan Malaysia (1988),
prefacing Raja Bahrin study on the Terengganu Timber Malay House: “It is only by
understanding our past that we can be sure of ourselves in facing the future,”
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APPENDICES
List of Appendices, tables of inventories, maps, articles.
Part of this presentation is to be given in Part 3 of the data gathering Chapter 4, with details on
1) General Tables:
-Results from Baseline: Disappearances (48 spp.) and Uncertain (39 Spp.)
-Forest Hills
-Kenyir MB
-Orang Asli
-House Compounds
-Ground features
-Architectural features
Appendices D: Academic Articles and other Papers (previously at the end of the
concerned Chapters)
- Monsoon Cup
1. Abrus precatorius Mimosaceae Saga akar betina Belukar, India, sub tropics,
371 Kt, Jln pasir
worldwide Duyung
4. Acalipha indica Euphorbiaceae Kuncing galak Shrubery Old world tropics P.Duyung
5. Acanthus ebracteatus Acanthaceae Jeruju Sea shores S.China, SEA Bank Nerus
River
tropics
7. Achras zapota, Manilkara Sapotaceae Ciku villages S America, tropics Pulau Duyung
syn.
8. Achyranthes aspera Amaranthaceae Ara songsang Coasts, Warm countries Open grounds
China
10. Acrotrema costatum Dillienaceae Meroyan punai tanah Wet tropical Moulmein to
forest Johore
11. Adenanthera pavonina Fabaceae Saga Forest & Native S.Chin, KT, border
12. Adenostemma vicosae Asteraceae Rumput tahi babi Waste Pan-tropical Paths, open
grounds grounds
grounds grounds
14. Agathis borneensis Auracariaceae Damar minyak Forest, up to SEA, Malaysia Bukit Bauk
1200m
nyamok
16. Ageratum conizoides Asteraceae Rumput tahi ayam Disturbed Tropics Villages open
18. Albertisia megacarpa menispermaceae (not in Burkill) Hill forest Peninsular Gunung
Malaysia Kambi
Malaysia Bongkok
22. Aloe vera Asphodelacea Lidah buaya, jadam dry soil Africa, Arabia House
adapted compounds,
planted
Philippines
house gardens
27. Alternanthera sessilis Amaranthaceae Keremak Habited parts America, Africa, Villages open
sides
campanulatus places
30. Anacardium occidentale Anacardiaceae Gajus, ketereh Gardens, America, tropics Pulau Duyung
paths sides
32. Anaxagorea shortechinii Annonaceae Lerek, pali monyet, Hill forest SEA, Malaysia Lata Belatan
pompon
33. Andrographis paniculata Acanthaceae Empedu tanah Open spaces, India, SEA,.world Bukit Kecil
34. Ancistrocladus tectorius Ancistrocladaceae Akar julong hitam Forest Nicobar, malaysia forest edge, P.
to Vietnam A
36. Anthocephalus cadamba Rubiaceae Kelempoyan Open spaces India, SEA Jambu
(Neolamarckia) Bongkok
37. Antiaris toxicaria Urticaceae pokok Ipoh Forest West Africa to Perak
pacific
38. Antidesma gheosembilla Euphorbiaceae Sepat, gunciak, Rain forest China to Australia Cendering
kuncor
belukar Cempaka
42. Ardisia crenata Myrsinaceae Mata pelanduk Rain forest Hills near La
43. Ardisia littoralis Myrsinaceae mata ayan paya,pena Mangrove India to Malesia Village, Pulau
Duyung
373
geringan
45. Aristolochia tagala Aristolochiaceae Akar ketola hutan Forests, India, Asia, Pulau
46. Aromadendron elegans Magnoliaceae Cempaka hutan Low land rain SEA
forest
47. Artabotrys odoratissimus Annonacaeae Kenanga cina, atar Forest tropical Asia KT market,
planted
Philippines
49. Artemisia vulgaris Asteraceae Sundar malam open grounds Temperate lorong Haji
climates,China Jamil
grounds Polynesia
S'pore,Indonesia
55. Asplenium nidum Aspleniaceae Paku langsuyir trees,rocks, SEA, Pacific P.Duyung
houses
56. Asystasia cormandeliana Acantahceae Akar ruas ruas Waste lands P.Duyung
57. Asystasia gangetica Acanthaceae ara songsang rumput Waste lands Old world tropics Village paths
Israel
59. Atalantia buxifolia Rutaceae Limau kiah, limau Villages S.China, SEA KT.Jln
rawit Kamarudin,
planted
62. Averrhoa carambola Oxalidaceae Belimbing besi Tropics India to Pacific P.Duyung
Kecil
63. Avicennia Lanata Verbenaceae Api api Mangrove Malaysia endemic Pulau Duyung
(Vul)
64. Azadirichta indica Meliaceae Mambu, lada pahit Sand and dry Nepal, Tropics Planted, run
places wild
Tgnu
66. Baeckia frutescens Myrtaceae Cucur atap Coasts, bris, Malaysia , Jambu
shores
71. Bauhinia valii Fabaceae Tapak kuda Monsoon East Asia India Bukit Kecil
climates
73. Begonia
Jamil
grounds
villages
Terengganu
78. Blumea balsamifera Asteraceae Daun capa, telinga Road sides, SEA Pulau Duyung
Terengganu river
81. Borreria articularis Rubiaceae Rumput susur Inhabited Tropical Asia Pulau Duyung
parts
monyet
Flores
85. Brucea javanica Simaroubaceae lada pahit Sunny, India, China, Mal, Cemetry
Duyung
87. Bryophytum pinnatum Crassulaceae Setawar, sedingin Dry areas Pantropical Pulau Ketam
near habitations
375
Salomon
Tgnu
90. Ceasalpinia bonduc Fabaceae Buah gorek Mangrove Pantropical River and sea
sides
94. Calophyllum inophyllum Guttiferrae penaga laut Sandy coasts Tropical Asia Dungun
coastal road
95. Calotropis gigantea Asclepiadaceae Rembega Sea side, road India, SEA Sea side, KT
sides street
planted
mangrove Pacific
Bongkok
halicacabum grounds
gardens
112. Cassia alata Cesalpinaceae Gelenggang besar Flood plains Mexico to tropics Villages
Kamarudin
Hiliran
tangga
118. Casuarina equisetifolia Casuarinaceae Rhu, cemara Sandy coasts Pantai Rhu 7,
Batu Buruk
119. Catharantus roseus Apocynaceae Kemunting Cina Beaches Madagascar to the Pantai Batu
Pacific Buruk
Bongkok
123. Centella asiatica Umbelliferae Pegaga open fields Madagascar to the P.Duyung
Pacific
126. Cerbera odollam Apocynaceae Pong pong Mangrove India, SEA, to P.Ketam
edge Polynesi
jarum
132. Chromolaena odorata Asteraceae Pokok kapal terbang Sunny land America. spread Besut
from Siam
135. Cibotium barometz Dicksoniaceae Penawar jambi Humid hills S.China Malaysia Genting
Highlands
138. Cinnamomum iners Lauraceae Medang Teja Remnant in Southern Logged forest
Southern Thailand
parthenoxylon
pomelos
disparifolium
garden
telan
isles
158. Cocos nucifera Arecaceae Nyor, kelapa sandy shores SEA ,Pacific P.Duyung
gardens
kampung Cina
gardens
swamps
Guineae gardens KT
harimau
178. Curcuma aeruginosa Zingiberaceae Temu hitam Grass areas SEA Garden Pulau
Duyung
179. Curcuma longa Zingiberaceae Kunyit sandy places India, SEA Garden Pulau
Duyung
180. Cycas edendata Cycadaceae Paku laut Dry exposed Indian Ocean Pulau Kapas
coasts
181. Cyclea latiflora Menispermaceae Akar teron kemang scrub hedges P. Malaysia, parts On fence
house gardens
184. Cynometra cauliflora Euphorbiaceae Katak puru, kekatong wet tropics Malaysia, Pulau Ketam
185. Cyperus rotundus Cyperaceae teki, rumput halia Africa to Fields, waste land
Tgnu
186. Datura metel Solanaceae Kecubung Grasslands, From Mexico to Kota Lama
tuka
trees
190. Derris elliptica Fabaceae Akar tuba Forests Northern SEA T'gnu River
191. Derris trifoliata Fabaceae Tuba laut, ketui sea side, World tropics Estuary
mangrove Terengganu
194. Dianela ensifolia Hemerocallidace, Siak, meroyan grassland to Old world tropics Bukit Besar
shrub hill
196. Didissandra frutescens Scrophuliaraceae Tarum hutan hill forest, Mascarenes to the Sumatra.
197. Dioscora hispida Dioscoreaceae Ubi Gadong waste lands Malaysia Borneo
Sumatra
199. Diospyros argentea Ebenaceae Bedil lalat Forest hills Lata Tembaka
200. Diospyros terengganuensis Ebenaceae kayu arang, keping Lowland Terengganu Lata Belatan
besi forests
201. Dischidia gaudichandilii Asclepiadaceae Duit duit, pitis pitis On tree in the Malaysia, Borneo Losong
tropics
coasts
Pacific
camphora Bongkok
Tgnu
210. Eichornia crassipes Pontyederiaceaee Keladi bunting Water ways, world wide Losong
ponds
SEA,Tropics planted
212. Etlingera coccinea Zingiberaceae Tepus kesing Forest Malaysia, Borneo Sekayu
213. Elephantopus scaber Asteraceae Tapak suleiman sunny waste Africa to Nepal Cemetry
214. Eleusine indica graminae gelang subang sunny waste Warm countires Weed
lands
380
215. Emilia sonchifolia Asteraceae Bayam perasi Humid waste Tropical Asia to P.Duyung
land Australia
216. Entada phaseolides Fabaceae Beluru Low land Africa, Asia and Jambu
Malaysia
218. Epiphyllum oxypetalum Cactaceae Bakawali, buah naga Gardens America, spread to Pulau
world Duyung,
cultivated
219. Epipremnum pinnatum Araceae Rengut, Belukar near SEA, South China Pulau Duyung
kelempayang habitation
220. Eriaucolon sexangularae Eriaucolaceae Rumput kepala lalat Indo-Malesia Kota Lama
Duyung
jawa synoym
222. Erytroxylum cuneatum Erytroxylaceae Cinta mula Coasts Burma to Java Pulau Kapas
223. Ervatamia corymbosa Apocynaceae Susun kelapa, pokok Marsh, ponds Madagascar Gardens KT
resdong
225. Eugenia claviflora Myrtaceae Jambu arang, keriang Lowland India to Australia Duyung
forest cemetry
228. Eurycoma longifolia Simaroubaceae Tongkat Ali Forest hills SEA Sungai La
229. Euphorbia hirta Euphorbiaceae Ambin jantan Waste land Amrica, SEA Near
habitations
230. Euphorbia thymifolia Euphorbiaceae Rumput barah Waste land Tropics Near
habitations
232. Evodia latifolia Rutaceae Setengek burong Waste land Siam, Malaysia
Java
233. Evodia roxburghiana Rutaceae Tengek burong Waste land India, Malaysia
Tgnu
238. Villages,
241. Ficus diversifolia Moraceae Mas secotet jantan Forest Gunong Tebu
243. Gunong
246. P.Duyung ,
Tgnu
250. Bukit
Gardenia jasminoides Rubiaceae Bunga Cina Villages distributed over the compounds
256. Sumatra,
258. Malaysia,
259. Philippines,
262. Villages,
263. Seberang
264. Goniothalamus
267. Secondary
Guettardia speciosa Rubiaceae ketapang pasir Sea side Australis Pulau Kapas
269. Inhabited
271. Gynandropsis gynandra Capparidaceae Maman Village paths Tropics Pulau Duyung
Tgnu
273. Peninsular
275. Helicteres isora Sterculiaeae Pulasan, cabai Forest India to Java Lata Belatan
Heliotropum indicum Boraginaceae Rumput ekor kucing lands Tropics Road sides
Hibiscus esculentus Malvaceae Kacang bendi villages India and SEA Pulau Duyung
Hibiscus sabdariffa Malvaceae Asam susur rozelle, Cultivated from Africa Jambu Bongkok
Hopea odorata Dipterocarpaceae Cengal kampung coastal areas Malaysia Pulau Duyung
I
Botanical name Family Malay name Habitat Range Location
Tgnu
297. Seberang
299. Ipomea batatas Convolvulaceae Ubi leledek Cultivated From America Kuala Berang
300. Ipomea pes-caprae Convolvulaceae Tapak kuda Sandy shores All over the world Pulau Duyung
Tgnu
308. Villages
jasminum sambac Oleaceae Melati, Pekan, Melur Cultivated India, China, SEA gardens
309. Villages
310. Jussaeia suffructicosa Onagraceae Lakom air Wet places All the world
Tgnu
314. mangrove,
316. Gunung
317. inhabited
Tgnu
318. Labisia pothoina Myrsinaceae Kacip Fatimah Forest SEA Lata Tembaka
385
321. lagerstroema speciosa lythracea Bongor raya Villages India to Australia Pulau Duyung
323. Lasia aculeata Araceae gegeli Hills, belukar SEA pulau Duyung
326. Lawsonia inermis lythraceae Inai Villages From Asia, spread Pulau Duyung
329. Lepidagathis longifolia Acanthaceae Peluruh, segugur Forest edges Tropics Pasir raja
330. Madagascar to
334. Mascarenes-
Lindernia crustaceae Scrophuliaraceae Akar kerak nasi open ground Tropics Pulau Duyung
345. Thailand,
350. Luffa echinata Cucurbitaceae Petola Gardens All over the world Gardens
Tgnu
358. Mallotus floribundus Euphorbiaceae Mahang,tampin Belukar Tropics, SEA Jalan Hiliran
362. Mapania humilis Cyperacea Sepit, siak siak rimba Forest Tropics Lata Belatan
366. Mascarenes to
367. inhabited
370. Jambu
372. Forest,
373. KT
town,abandonned
Millettia atropurpurea Fabaceae Tulang daing laut Forest the world Sekayu
Millettia serticea Fabaceae Tulang daing laut Forest the world Sekayu
378. Mitragyna speciosa Rubiaceae Ketum,biak Forest Old world tropics Hills, Tepuh
388. Malaysia
Tgnu
397. Peninsular
Neobalanocarpus heimii Dipterocarpaceae Cengal Red listed Forest Malaysia Lata belatan
398. Neolitsea zeylanica Lauraceae Teja , teja pasir Belukar SEA, Australia P.Duyung
399. Malaysia,
400. Forest,
Neopteris nidus Polypodiaceae Paku langsuyir vilages, rubber Humid tropics Kpg Setebu
402. Cultivated,
404. Mediteranee to
405. Planted,
406. Mediteranee to
407. Mangrove,
Tgnu
413. Ocinum basilicum Labiaceae Selaseh Villages All over the world Gardens
414. Ocinum canum Labiaceae Kemangi Villages all over the world Gardens
Oroxylum indicum Bignoniaceae Bolai kayu, beka mangrove Malaysia Pulau Duyung
Ortosiphon stamineus Labiatiae Misai kucing gardens Pacific Australia Pulau Duyung
Oxalis corniculata Oxalidaceae Sikap dada grounds Africa.,few SEA Pulau Duyung
Tgnu
Parameria barbata Apocynaceae Akar serapat puteh Forest Borneo Lata belatan
427. Jambu
Paramygna angulata Rutaceae Limau lelang Forest, coasts India, China, SEA Bongkok
428. Jambu
Paramygna scandens Rutaceae Akar selusuh ayam Coasts India, China, SEA Bongkok
430. Kampung
433. Peireskia bleo Cactaceae jarun sembilan Villages America to Java Pulau Duyung
434. Himalaya to
435. Thailand,
Peltophorum dasyrachis Mimosaceae Jemerelang, batai Forest Malaysia, Sumatra Jeram Nerus
438. Villages,
441. Montane
445. Phyllanthus niruri Euphorbiacea Dukong anak Coasts Tropics Pulau Duyung
447. inhabited
Physalis alkekenge Solanaceae letup letup Belukar Tropics, Europe "alek nu"
452. Piper caninum Piperaceae Sireh hutan Low country Malaysia and Java
453. Imported to
454. Imported to
455. Planted in
457. Jambu
461. Villages,
Plumbago zeylanica Plumbaginaceae Ceraka Road sides Africa Asia Pacific planted
469. Portulaca oleracea Portulacaceae Gelang pasir Gardens World-wide Pulau Duyung
470. Mauritius to
Psychotria viridiflora Rubiaceae Jarum jarum ukit Forest Indonesia Lata belatan
Tgnu
Tgnu
480. Malaysia,
481. Sumatra,
482. Sumatra,
Rauvolfia perakensis Apocynaceae Batu pelir kambing Belukar Malaysia,Thailand Pulau Duyung
485. Cimetry
Tgnu
393
493. Swampy
Sagittaria sagittifolia Alismaceae Ubi Keladi places Temperate zones Paya Keladi
494. Tenasserim to
498. India,
506. Scoparia dulcis Scrophulariaceae Teh Macao Path sides America Pulau Duyung
510. Selaginella atroviridis Selaginellaceae Paku merak Forest Asia and SEA Sekayu
Sesamun indicum Pedaliaceae Biji bijan cultivated Africa, Asia Pulau Duyung
513. Waste
Smilax callophyllum Smilacaceae Itah besi, dedawai Forest Peninsula Bukit Bintang
519. Sonerila nidularia Melastomaceae Kacip Fatimah (syn.) Hill forest South East Asia
520. Solanum torvum Solanaceae Terung pipit puteh Belukar Tropics Pulau Duyung
524. Starchytapheta jamaicensis Verbenaceae Selaseh dandi Path sides America to tropics
Steptocaulon wallichii Asclepiadaceae Kayu serapat Forest edges Malaysia lata Belatan
528. inhabited
529. Strychnos ignatii, ovalifolia Loganiaceae Gajah tarek Forest Tropics Lata Belatan
532. Jambu
Tgnu
533. Tabernaemontana
537. Tarenna stellulata Rubiaceae Forest Tropics Gunung lawit Kawa hutan
395
538. Telosma cordata Asclepiadaceae Villages India, China Tanjung Bunga Tonkin
540. Indonesia to
542. Tropical
544. Seburut
Thysanolaena agrostis Gramineae Reed to New Guinea Forest, river side buluh
547. Tinospora crispa Menispermaceae Villages India to SEA KT, Kubur Patarwali
548. Mediteranee,
549. Tapak
Typhonium flagelliforme Araceae paths sides spaces Duyung, gardens Keladi tikus
Tgnu
557. Malaysia,
Tgnu
562. Tikam
564. Afganistan to
565. Mascarenes
566. Malay
Tgnu
Wedelia biflora Asteraceae Open spaces Pacific Pulau Duyung Serunai laut
570. Tropics
Tgnu
Tgnu
576. Indo-
Ziziphus mauritiania Rhamnaceae Sandy river banks Malayan region Pulau Duyung Bidara
“Plant species Baseline Inventory” with location, uses, and occurrence in present era (323
Species)
Tr Pharm F
No. Botanical name Malay name Family Location Tgnu Bot., habit Orn. Today
. . d
M.
Akar saga W,
1 Abrus precatorius betina Fabaceae Kt, Jln pasir panjang y 2014 Climber, vine y Check
Kembang W,
Kuncing W,
Acanthus
Achras zapota,
Achyranthes W,
Adenanthera
Bayam W,
10 Aerva lanata karang Amaranthaceae Paths, open grounds y 2011 herbaceus Check
Araucaria ceae
Agathis Damar
Akar
Lidah House
17 Aloe vera buaya, jadam Asphodela ceae compounds, planted Y 2018 P, succulent P
Alstonia Mangrove, P.
Amorphophal W,
Anacardium Gajus, 20
Ananas 20 P,
Anaxagorea Lerek, 20
Annona Durian 20
Anthocephalu Kelempo 20
Antidesma Gunciak, 20
Archidendron Pokok 20
Pokok 20
Ardisia Mata 20
Artocarpus 20
Artocarpus 20
W,
Asystasia Ara 20
Limau
Averrhoa Belimbin 20
Avicennia 20
Baccaurea 20
Baeckea Cucur 20
Barringtonia Putat 20
Bauhinia Tapak 20
Kancing Waysides, 20 W,
Kesumba Kuala 20
Daun
Borassus Banks 20
Bouea 20
Brucea Cemetry 20
Bryophytum Setawar, 20 P,
W,
Calanthe 20 Epiphytic
Cananga 20
Pisang Villages, 20
Canthium
Capsicum 20
Carapa
moluccensis
Xylocarpus 20
P,
20 herbaceous
Rabok, 20
Cassia tora
Senna
Gelengga Jalan 20
Catunaregam 20
Centella 20
Cerbera Pong 20
Chassalia Beberas, 20
Chromolaena Pokok 20
Cinnamomum Akar 20
Cinnamomum medang 20
Cinnamomum
zeylanicum, Kayu 20
Limau
Citrus besar, 20
Limau 20
Citrus Limau 20
Clerodendron P.Duyung 20
Bunga
Cocos Nyor, 20
Costus 20 W,herbaceu
Crataeva 20
Dala
101 nurmala Capparidaceae Losong y 12 P, tree y P
403
Crinum 20 W,
Majukani Euphorbiaceae
Croton 20 P,
(?)
103 caudatum Market KT y 13 herbaceus y P
P,
P,
Katak
puru, Fabaceae
Cynometra
Kelentit
nyamok, Myrtaceae
Decaspermu
Dendrobium Angerek 20 W,
Siak,
Asphodelaceae
Dianella meroyan Bukit Besar hill
ensifolia KT 20 W,
Diospyros Bedil 20
kayu
arang,
Ebenaceae
Diospyros kuping
Dolychandron 20
Driobalanocar 20
Etlingera Bunga 20 P,
Etlingera Tepus W,
Eleusine gelang 20 W,
Emilia Bayam 20 W,
Entada 20 W, woody
Epipremnum Rengut, 20
Erytroxylum 20
Ervatamia
corymbosa, Susun
E.Tabernaemonta kelapa, 20
Eugenia, jambu 20
Eurycoma Tongkat 20
Euphorbia Ambin 20 W,
Euphorbia Rumput 20 W,
Euphorbia 20 P,
Excoecaria 20
Fagrea
fragrans,
Cyrtophyllum 20
Fagrea
racemosa
Utania Setawar,
Mas
Ficus secotet,
Flagellaria Rotan
Flemingia P.Duyung,
Serengan Fabaceae
143 strobilifera cemetry y 2011 W, shrub P
Garcinia Asam
Hujan
Glycosmis
citrifolia,G W, tree,
Gnetum
Annonaceae
Goniothalam Selayar
Goniothalamu Gajah 20
Goniothalam 20
Guettardia ketapang 20
Gynandropsis 20 W,
Sebiak,
Gynura sambong 20 W,
Heliotropum Rumput 20
Heritiera 20
Hibiscus Kacang 20
Hibiscus Bunga 20
Hibiscus 20
Homalomena Batang 20 W,
Hoya 20
Hydnophytu Kepala 20 W,
Hyptis Selaseh 20 W,
Imperata 20 W,
20
Ipomea Ubi 20
Ixonandres Pagar 20
Ixora 20
Pecah 20
Jatropha Villages 20
Justicia Gandarus 20
Kopsia Pokok 20
Labisia Kacip 20 W,
Lansium Langsat, 20
lagerstroema Bongor 20
lantana Bunga 20
Lasia
aculeata.
20
Lasianthus 20
Lawsonia 20
20
Lepisanthes pokok
kunstleri, L. terajang 20
Gelam
Leucas 20 W,
Leucopogon
malayanus Cucur 20
Luffa 20
Luvunga Selusoh 20
Lygodium 20
Mallotus Balek 20
Mangifera Mempela 20
Mapania
humilis,
Sepit,
Melaleuca Pokok 20
Chempak 20
Millettia Tulang 20
Mimosa 20 W,
Kampong
Mimusops Tanjung 20
Momordica 20
Morinda Mengkud 20
Morinda Mengkud 20
Tut, 20
Muntigia Kerukup 20
Murraya Kemunin 20
Murraya Daun 20
P,
Musa 20 herbaceous
W,
Mussaenda Balek 20
Mussaenda Balek
Peiuk
Nelumbium Teratai, 20
Neobalanoca Dipterocarpace 20
Neolitsea
Neotopteris
nidus Asplenium
nidum, A.
Paku 20 W,
ellipticum
227 langsuyir Aspleniaceae Kpg Setebu y 18 epiphyte y P
Nypa 20
Ocinum 20 P,
Ocinum 20 P,
Oldenlandia,
corymbosa
Oncosperma Terengganu 20
Oroxylum Bolai 20
Ortosiphon Misai 20
Oxalis Sikap 20 W,
Paederia 20
Parameria
barbata
Urceola Akar 20
Akar
Passiflora 20
Peltophorum Jemerela 20
Peperomia Ketumpa 20 W,
Phyllanthus Dukong 20
Phyllanthus Dukong 20
Gerahan
badak,
sepucat,
20
Lada 20
Piper 20
Plumbago Villages, 20
Polyalthia Penawar 20
Polyalthia Peleh 20
Portulaca Gelang 20
Premna 20
Gading
Pterocarpus 20
Punica 20
Rauvolfia Batu 20
Renellia Mengku
Saccharum 20 P,
Sagittaria Ubi 20
Sapium
indicum,
Excoraria, S.
Shirakiopsis 20
Sauropus
Scaphium Kemban 20
Scaevola
Schefflera
arboricola,
Heptapleurum Kerbau 20
Scoparia Teh 20 W,
Gelengga
ng kecil
Belukar, Belukar 20
Sesbania Jalan 20
Sesamun 20 W,
Sida 20 W,
Sindora 20
Itah
Sonneratia Beremba 20
Solanum Terung 20
Spilanthes
Sophora Buah 20 W,
Streptocaulo Akar 20
Syzygium Gelam 20
Jangut
Adam, keladi 20
Talinum Ginseng 20 P,
Tamarindus Asam 20
Terminalia 20
Tetracera 20
Seburut,
Tinospora Menispermacea 20
Trevesia Tapak 20
Urophyllum Merembu 20
Akar
Uvaria pisang-pisang 20
Tikam
Vernonia
cinerea,
Cyanthillium Rumput 20 W,
Vitex 20
Vitis
cinnamomea,
Ampelocissus Pakan, 20
Wedelia W,
Wikstroemia Depu 20
Xylocarpus
Xylopia 20
Zingiber 20 W,
Ziziphus 20
Dissapeared species
1. Demise of owner, lack of interest, ability or strength from the present inhabitants, small
gardens abandoned
3. Infrastructure construction, and soil covering (tar roads. banks, bridges, concrete channels
The disappeared species are all rather common species with a medicinal use; mostly
international: South Asia, Pacific to Madagascar.
Ardisia elliptica: one individual, supplanted by robust secondary growth of Ficus and Hibiscus
tilliaceus
Aristolochia tagala: Supporting species along stream cut for replacement by concrete channel.
Elephantopus scaber: perhaps cleaning cemetry, perhaps loss of co-existing herb species
Entada phaseolides: part of the rarefaction of some climbers in a much-visited reserve forest
Fagrea racemosa: planted species that did not survive in its new surroundings
Ipomea reptans: Perhaps collected in a waterlogged area, left place to other water friendly and
hardy species
Justicia gendarussa cut during a “cemetery cleaning operation” did not regrow
Rhodomyrtus tomentosa: cut during a cleaning, did not regrow. Still common in other village
sunny areas.
Sesamun indicum: Appeared and disappeared, without obvious reason, not noticed, unused
Vallaris glabra: abandoned; children of the deceased owner did not look after it
Zingiber cassumunar; stopped growing where used to: ground disturbances by human occupants
Four common species palm trees and herbs- -Cocos nucifera, centella asiatica, Portulaca oleacera
and Oncosperma tiggilarum have obviously decreased in quantity
54 Kayu lapis
55 Labisia pothoinia Kacip Fatimah
56 Bidens pilosa Kacing baju merah
57 Heydiotis diffusa Kacing baju puteh
58 Homalomena sagittifolia Kemoyang
59 Mesua ferrea Penaga gunong
60 Schefflera heterophylla Kerbau melawan
61 vitis cinnamomum Kertas pangan
62 Luffa acutangula Ketola pahit
63 Kawat tahi kucing
64 Alocasia indica Keladi birah
65 Hydnophytum formicarum Kepala beruk
66 Smilax myosotifolia lancang besi
67 Smilax calophylla Lancang tembaga
68 Piper nigrum Kucukan lada hitam
69 Coscinum blumeanum Mengkunyit puteh
70 Xylocarpus moluccensis Nyaru
71 Biophytum adiantoides Payung Ali
72 Pithecelobium microcarpu Petai merbau
73 Parkia speciosa Petai
74 Pithecelobium jering Nering/jering
75 Pithecelobium lobatum Keredas
76 Goniothalamus scortechinii Gajah beranak
77 Cinnamomum cinereum Teja sarsi
78 Ixora chinensis Pecah periuk
79 Vitis cinnamomea Pakan kertas
80 Aralidium pinnatofolium Puak punggah, balai
81 Garcinia motleyana Tambun
82 Ixonanthes icosandra Pagar anak
83 Cinnamomum cuspidatum Rempah gunung
84 Lophatherum gracile Rumput buluh
85 Commelina nudiflora Rumput aur
86 Cratoxylum formosum Ronggang
87 Blumea balsamifera Sembong, capa
88 Drioglossum pilesoides Sisek puyu
89 Melastoma malabathrica Sudu sendok
90 Carallia sufructicosa setulang daging
91 Clerodendron inerme Setulang laut
92 Piper porphyrophyllum Sireh rimau
93 Areca catechu Pinang
94 Solanum torvum terung kemar
95 Micromelum pubescens Semerol gajah
96 Mimosa pudica Semalu hutan
98 Hippocratea indica Serapat daging
99 Paramignya scandens Serapat darah
100 Parameria laevigata Sekecut urat
102 Polyporus sacer Susu harimau
103 Mikania micracantha Selaput tunggul
104 Eleutherine bulbosa Selusuh pangan
427
Tebu gajah, Fagraeae acumnatisssima Tengkuk biawak, Hoya coronaria, Setebal, Entada
phaseolidea, Beluru, Anacardium occidentale Jambu golok, Syzygium aquae Jamby air, Coscinium
blumeanum Mengkunit kuning, Hibiscus sabdarifa Assam, Aralidum pinnatifolium Pauh punga,
Balai, Vitex rotundifolia Lengundi, Garcinia hombronyana Semeta Beruas, Fagrea racemose
Sepuleh, Vitis Nyaru, Portulacca oleacera Gelang, Baeckia fructescens Cucur atap, Badang (for
skin deseases) Badang darah, badang berduri, Badang minyak, badang merayap, Celosia argentea
Balong ayam
Tunjang bumi, Eurycoma longifolia Selusuh ayam jantan, Luvunga scandens Mata pelandok, Ardisia
crenata Ubi Nyaru, Vitis diffusa Teja jantan, Cinnamomum molissimum Jejuang Cordilyne terminalis
Beras puteh, Chassalia chartacea Bebuas, Premna foetida Gajah beranak, Goniothalamus macrophyllum
Pecah periuk, Ixora sinensis Tumbuh seduan, Angiopteris erecta Gelam tikus, Syzygium inophylla Gelam
paya, Melaleuca cajuputi Pokok Gemia, Bouea spp. Belinjau, gnetum gnemon Timba tasek,
Leptospermum flavescens Rumput dawai, Ischaenum musticum Kayu kuat, Goniothalamus schortechinii
Kemunting, Rhodomyrtus tomentosa Katak udang, Buchania arborescens Rempah padang, Striga
On the beach:
Badang busut Catunaregam spinosa (Randia) Akar dani, Combretum indicum Sesiak, Dianela ensifolia
Serapat kayu, Parameria laevigata Lamuni/lengudi, Vitex rotundifolia, Meribut, Olax scandens, Teh
padang, Scoparia dulcis, Kelempadang Vaccinium bracteatum, Tasek timbul Stiphelia malayana, Pulai
leaves: (on spleen for fever, latex for boils), Cerbera odolam, pong pong
With botanist Frantz Limier (2017) with some traditionally (Terengganu) reputed uses
Annonaceae Polyalthia bullata, tongkat Ali hitam, peleh, (tonic and postpartum)
Casuarinaceae Casuarina equisetifolia, Pokok Ru, used in dying, bark reputed postpartum
Cyperaceae
Dipterocarpaceae
Fabaceae
Flacourtiaceae
Flacourtia inermis,
Goodeniaceae
429
Liliaceae
Lamiaceae
Vitex pinnata, leban Vitex rotundifolia, lengundi, lamuni. roots and leaves postpartum
Myristicaceae
Myrsinaceae
Ardisia crenata, mata pelandok, mata ayam, ulam salad greens, clears mucus (asthma)
Myrtaceae
Melaleuca leucadendron, gelam, tannin, essential oil, external uses (and caulking. poles, charcoal)
Nepenthaceae
Pandanaceae
Pandanus odoratissimus
Restionaceae
Rubiaceae
Catunaregam (Randia) spinosa, badang, one of them (as Mat Kapur), for skin problems
Appendices B
Medicinal Plants in Terengganu to compare sources
Ubat
Bil Ubat Tgnu nd exhibition Tradisyonal Mat kapur Villagers Orang Asli Total
1 Abelmoschus moschatus 1
2 Abrus precatorius / 2
3 Acalypha indica / / 3
4 Acanthus ebracteus / 2
5 Acorus calamus / 2
6 Acrotrema costatum 1
7 Adenostoma capitatum 1
8 Adenothera pavonina 1
9 Aerva lanata 1
10 Agava angustifolia 1
11 Agrostistachys gaudichii / 1
12 Alangium ebenaceum / 2
13 Albizia myriophylla / / / 4
14 Alpinia conchigera / / 3
15 Alpinia galanga / / / / 5
16 Alpinia species / 2
17 Alstonia angustiloba / 2
18 Alternanthera sessilis / 2
19 Amaranthus speciosus / 2
20 Amonum cardamomum 1
21 Amorphophallus prainii / 2
22 Anacardium occidentale / / 3
431
/A
23 Ancistrocladus tectorius pinanginus / 3
24 Andrographis paniculata / / 3
25 Annona muricata / / / 4
26 Antidesma ghaesembila / 2
Antidesma
27 Antidesma montanum sp 1
28 Aquilaria malaccensis / 2
29 Aralidum pinnatifolium / 2
30 Archidendron bubalinum 1
31 Archidendron jiringa / 2
32 Ardisia elliptica (below lah) / / 3
33 Ardisia barnesii
34 Ardisia crenata / / A. sp. 3
35 Areca catechu / / / 4
36 Aristolochia tagala / / 3
37 Artocarpus communis 1
38 Artocarpus elasticus 1
39 Artocarpus heterophyllus / 2
40 Artocarpus incisa 1
41 Archidendron bubalinum 1
42 Ardisia elliptica 1
43 Atalantis buxifolia 1
44 Averrhoa belimbi / / / / 5
45 Averrhoa carambola / / / 4
46 Avicenna lanata / / 3
47 Avicenna alba / / 3
48 Azadarichta indica 1
49 Baccaurea lanceolata 1
50 Baccaurea motleyana 1
51 Baccaurea parviflora 1
52 Baeckea frutescens / 2
53 Bambusa vulgaris / / / 4
54 Barleria lupulina 1
55 Barleria prionitis / 2
56 Barringtonia macrostachys B acutangular 2
57 Bauhinia acuminata B racemosa 2
58 Biophytum adiantoides / /
59 Bixa orellana
60 Blumea balsamifera / / / / 5
61 Bouea macrophylla / 2
62 Brucea amarissima / / / 4
63 Buchania / 2
64 Callophyllum inophyllum / 2
65 Calotropis gigantea / 2
Campylospermum
66 serratum
67 Cananga odorata / 1
68 Canavalia ensiformis / 2
432
/C
115 Cymbopogon nardus / / winterianus 4
116 Cynometra cauliflora / / / 4
117 Datura alba / 2
118 Datura metel / 2
119 Derris elliptica / / 3
120 Desmodium gangeticum / 2
121 Dilliena ensifolia / 2
122 Dillenia obovata 2
123 Dioscorea hispida /D alata 2
124 Diospyros argentea 1
125 Diospyros buxifolia 1
126 Dipteris conjugata 1
127 Dipteris lobbiana 1
128 Dipterocarpus crinitus / 2
129 Dishidia major 1
130 Donax grandis 1
131 Dracaena elliptica 1
132 Drynaria quercifolia 1
Dryobalanops
133 sumatranensis 1
134 Durio spp. D zybetinus 2
135 Eclipta prostata / / 3
Elateriospermum
136 tapoifolia 1
137 Elettaropsis curtisii / 2
138 Emilia sonchifolia / 2
139 Entada phaseolides / 2
140 Epipremnum giganteum 1
141 Epitrema membranaceum 1
142 Erythrina fusca E. indica 2
143 Eurycoma longifolia / / 3
144 Etlingera elatior / 2
145 Euphorbia hirta / / 3
146 Euphorbia neriifolia 1
147 Euphorbia thymifolia 1
/
148 Fagraea auriculata acuminatissima 2
149 Fagraea fragrans / / 3
150 Fagraea racemosa / 2
151 Fibraurea chloroleuca / / tinctoria 3
152 Ficus benjamina 1
153 Ficus deltoidea / /
154 Ficus variegata 1
155 Garcinia hombroiana /motleyana 2
156 Garcinia atroviridis / /G cambodgia G cambodgia 3
157 Garcinia praniana / /hombronyana 3
158 Garcinia mangostana / 2
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/G
159 Gardenia florida / jasminoides 3
160 Globba pendula / 2
161 Gnetum gnemon 1
162 Goniothalamus umbrosus / scortechinii macrophyllus 3
/G
163 Gomphandra quadrifida penangiana / G globosa 3
164 Gossipum herbaceum 1
165 Guioa pleuroptis G pubescens G pubescens 3
Helmintyhostachys
166 zeylanica 1
167 Hibiscus rosa-sinensis / / / 4
Homalocladium
168 platycladum 1
169 Homalomena sagittifolia / / 3
170 Hydnophytum formicarium / / 3
171 Hydrangea macrophylla 1
/ hyptis
172 Hyptis suaveolens / / brevipes 4
173 Ilex cimosa / 2
174 Impatiens balsamina / / 3
175 Imperata cylindrica / / / 4
176 Ipomea aquatica / / 3
177 Ixonanthes icosandra / 2
178 Ixora concinna / sp not id 2
179 Ixora pendula / / 3
180 Jasminum sambac / / / 4
181 Jatropha curcas / 2
Johannesteijsmanni
182 altifons 1
183 Justicia gendarussa / / 3
184 Justicia plicostoma 1
185 Kadsura scandens / 2
186 Kaempferia /K galanga 2
187 Lagerstroemia speciosa / 2
188 Lantana camara / / 3
189 Leptospermum flavescens / / 3
190 Lasia spinosa 1
191 Labisia pumila / / 3
192 Lansium domesticum / 2
193 Lawsonia alba / 2
194 Lawsonia inermis / / / 4
195 Leea indica / / / 4
196 Lepidaria kingii 1
197 Lepisanthes rubiginosa / / 3
198 Leptospermum flavescens / 2
199 Leucaena leucocephala / 2
200 Licuala glabra 1
201 Lophopetalun Walichii L Gracile 2
435
Herba ubatan Trgnu: 336 Tradisyonal: Mat kapur: Villages: Orang asli
108 on
@300 73 on @ 100 98 on @ 200 98 on @ 200
The “Monsoon Cup” was an effort toward sailing sports tourism on the traditional island of Pulau
Duyong that lasted 10 years (2005-2015)
Fig. The Monsoon Cup Match Race, (a) 2005, b) 2007) c) Landscaped Hotel
A Press release in 2007, from the event developpers: “Making the most of the monsoon”
“In less than three years a muddy sandbar in a little-known river estuary has been transformed into a yachting
Mecca. This is the story of a purpose-built venue for a world class racing event in 2007, and the little fishing
Outsiders’ views on exogen development such as the Monsoon Cup in Pulau Duyong
The Impact of the Monsoon Cup event on the island and the reaction of the inhabitants, as found by
academic researchers and foreign tourism view on Pulau Duyong was expressed as follows:
1) The inhabitants were not really involved: ‘The involvement of local community in this event is
passive and it has affected the local hosts perceptions. Most of the majo rdevelopments have not
given any benefit to the locals.’ Mohd Azmin, Nurul Azhani (2008) in Kajian persepsi komuniti
439
tempatan terhadap pelancongan sukan: Monsoon Cup, Pulau Duyung. Universiti Teknologi
Malaysia, Faculty of Built Environment.
2) Another research emphasized the importance of exploring and understanding the goals and
needs of both the organisers and the residents respectively, ( Nawal Hanim Abdullah, Ian Peterson
et al.2014) Residents’ Needs and Organisers’ Goals towards the Organisation of Monsoon Cup
Event, Malaysia Journal of Economics and Management 8 (2): 327 - 341 (2014) IJEM International
Journal of Economics and Management.
3) The sailing event was not registered in some tourism books. There was no mention of the event
in the Le “Guide du Routard 2008-2009, Malaisie, Singapour ». The guide instead tells of
interesting things to do about Pulau Duyong, other than observing the boat building and visiting
the Kota Lama Duyong: “Loose oneself in the inextricable network of earth trails. One meets there
many children, talkative women, and nonchalant old men. Nothing special to see, but an
atmosphere of calm and” joie de vivre”, and picturesque details to grasp. But the concrete begins
to nibble the ground, hurry to get there!”
p
440
Pulau Duyong 3
“The Make-over of the Estuary”: 2011: Re-engineering for a modern landscape in 2020
Fig. ECRED (20011) vision for the Estuary of the Terengganu River: a) “KTCC Selatan”; b) KTCC Utara
KUALA TERENGGANU: The Kuala Terengganu City Centre (KTCC) project, unveiled on Thursday, Oct 20, will
be the linchpin to transform the state as it seeks to draw new domestic and foreign investments and create jobs.The
KTCC development, which covers a 7km radius from the Terengganu river estuary, will have a gross development
value (GDV) of about RM5 billion.
“Terengganu is set for exciting times. The KTCC project is a game changer and will establish new economic
parameters for the state,” said Terengganu Menteri Besar Datuk Seri Ahmad Said. “The project will herald in new
domestic and foreign investments, attracting many private entities participation where eventually it will elevate
Terengganu’s economy,” added Ahmad.
He added three major catalysts to drive KTCC were an integrated lifestyle enclave, a learning quarter, and a health
and wellness village.
Speaking at the ground breaking ceremony, he said there would be multiple spin-offs from increased tourist arrivals,
more opportunities in trade, retail services, recreation, food and beverage.
‘The East Coast Economic Region Development Council (ECERDC) is the facilitator for the project.
The development will focus around five key areas of Muara Utara, Muara Selatan, Pulau Warisan, Kampung
Ladang/Tanjung and the Corniche Waterfront. In total, the development is estimated to create jobs for more than
82,000 people by the year 2020”. (October 20, 2011 the Editor, The Edge,)
441
Fig. Developement in the estuary and changes in views from Pulau Duyong (2020).
Fig. November 2020: Today: a) View toward Pulau Duyong b) View towards the draw bridge and the new
estuary.
Land reclamation has -not yet- fulfilled its promises. For the time being, on the future “KT City Centre North” (Muara
Utara), food trucks cater for local visitors who come to enjoy the space and the view of the new “drawbridge”.
442
Christine Rohani Longuet was born in 1943 in Paris, where Maronniers (Aesculus
hippocastanum) are the main tree species, and wrought iron decorate stone buildings. She was
brought up near the “Jardin du Luxembourg”, a landscaped public garden, studied Latin, Greek
Her first work was as a librarian at the Astronomy Observatory of near Paris, then as a
documentalist at the Centre Scientifique du Batiment (Paris VII), and was appointed as translator
cultural Departments of Embassies (France and Cambodgia), and translator. In 1982-1983, having
moved to Terengganu (Pulau Duyong) to commission the building of sailing boats, she pursued
In 1982-1983, she worked as a field ethnobotanist for the French “Societe de Recherche in
Phyto-Pharmacy”, then, from 1985 to 1995, together with phytopharmacists from the Centre
National de la Recherche Scientifique (France), and the Universiti Malaya and, from 2001 to 2003,
while the boat building was still active, further explored the Terengganu flora for medicinal species
at the University Technology Malaysia on “The Cultural Landscape of the House Compounds in
Terengganu”. From 2009 to 2011, she was appointed as a consultant at the University Institute
MARA in Puncak Alam to design and create a medicinal garden for their faculty of
phytochemistry.
443
The gathering of documents and studies for the present thesis started in 2013 as a part time
research to bear witness of the past and present change in the floral and built Environment in
Terengganu. It was interrupted a few times for family reasons but has been continued.
On the personal side, Puan Rohani has eight -grown up- children, has been widowed three