Mutton has long lapsed in popularity compared to its younger cousin. This is a crying shame, for I believe well-grown mutton to be one of the finest meats produced on the British isles. While mutton may be difficult to find in your local butcher, it is widely available on the internet. For example, the wonderful Herdwick from the Lake District that I used when I cooked this recipe is strongly flavoured, as befits most highland breeds. Some lowland breeds will taste milder in comparison. Whatever you choose, shoulder of mutton requires long, slow cooking to bring out the best results.
Serves 4–6
250g/9oz/1¼ cups salted butter, softened and diced
1 large bunch of oregano or rosemary, leaves picked and finely chopped
8 salted anchovies
zest of 1 unwaxed lemon
1 x approx 2.5kg / 5½lb shoulder of mutton on the bone
8 banana shallots, peeled and halved lengthways
2 whole bulbs of garlic, peeled and halved
1 x 750ml bottle of red wine
freshly ground black pepper to taste
Preheat the oven to 140C / 275F / gas mark 1. Put the butter in a food processor. Add the herbs, reserving a little for later, and then the anchovies, lemon zest and black pepper. Whizz to a coarse paste – about 20 seconds will do it.
Slather the paste all over the top of the mutton to a thickness of about 5mm / ¼ inch. Put the shallots and garlic in a deep roasting tray and add any remaining herbs. Lay the mutton on top and pour in the wine; the liquid should just be touching the bottom of the meat – if not, top up with water.
Seal the top of the roasting tray with a layer of baking parchment followed by foil. Place the tray in the oven for at least 6 hours (overnight at 100C / 200F / gas mark 1⁄8 works too), or until the mutton is cooked.
Remove the foil and baking parchment and turn the heat up to 200ºC/400ºF/
gas mark 6 to crisp up the crust for 20 minutes. Strain the juices, discarding
the garlic and shallots, reduce a little in a saucepan, uncovered, over a medium heat, season and set aside to use as a gravy.
This is lovely served with braised red cabbage and mustard mashed potatoes.
