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City Hall in Bloemfontein
Bloemfontein's City Hall. Photograph: South African Tourism
Bloemfontein's City Hall. Photograph: South African Tourism

Bloemfontein: World Cup insider's guide

This article is more than 14 years old
Local university lecturer Margaret Linstrom on the best of the Free State's historic capital city

I love this city because ...

Bloemfontein has been dubbed "the small city with the big heart", as it has everything a city can offer but with the warmth and hospitality often lacking in larger cities. The city's greatest asset is its people – diverse, friendly, down to earth and helpful. The weather is another huge plus, with lots of sunshine year round and glorious blue skies; and even though the winter nights are cold, the days invariably are sunny and warm.  

Favourite hangouts

I love food, wine and art so my favourite hangouts will feature one or two of these, and if I'm really lucky all three. My absolute favourite hangout is Vida & Arte (67 President Reitz Avenue, Westdene; +27 84 509 8591), a delightful eatery owned by a charming Argentinian, Miguel Borge. The menu includes tapas and traditional South American food with a modern twist. Miguel is a wine aficionado and he'll be able to answer all your questions regarding South African wines (what to buy, where to buy it and how to get it back home in one piece). 

Alternatively, there's Meel which means "flour" in Afrikaans (87A Kelner Street, Westdene; +27 51 448 8836), a quirky restaurant/bakery housed in a beautiful Victorian house. Go there to enjoy their traditional South African cuisine or buy some of their homemade bread and cheese to enjoy later.  

Oliewenhuis Art Museum (16 Harry Smith Street; +27 51 447 9609) is a former state president's residence. It's a magnificent Cape Dutch homestead situated in impressive gardens. This is the perfect spot to enjoy a picnic in the garden before taking a stroll through the art museum, which houses an extensive collection of South Africa's foremost artists work. The art museum has a permanent exhibition which houses an outstanding collection of South African art. Also at the museum, you'll find an outdoor sculpture park and a working carousel for which original sculptures of African animals were commissioned. There's also a restaurant on the grounds, where you can taste more of the country's great cooking. 

Best places to watch the football

The Free State stadium in Bloemfontein is where the actual action will take place. It's been given a facelift recently, including an upgraded western stand which has pushed capacity from 38,000 to 46,000 spectators. The stadium was used as a venue for the Fifa Confederations Cup in 2009.

Visitors who weren't able to obtain match tickets or who want to see matches played elsewhere in the country will be able to do so at the fan park. This will be based at the Mangaung Outdoor Sports Centre. Entrance is free and the games will be broadcast on a big screen, with entertainment by local and international artists.

Best places to drink

If wine is your drink of choice, go to Coco C Restaurant and Chocolatier in the Loch Logan Mall (Shop S6, 2nd floor, Loch Logan Waterfront; +27 51 447 8523), where an experienced sommelier will guide you through the delightful intricacies of South African wine. Not only does this restaurant have an impressive wine list, it's also the place foodies frequent for its superb fine dining experience.

If you're just looking for a place to drink beer or cocktails, nearby Barba's Café (16 2nd Avenue, Westdene; +27 51 430 2542) buzzes with music, good food and all-night parties. Right next to Barba's you'll find Oolong Lounge (16A 2nd Avenue; +27 51 448 7244), which is also a good choice for a drink after a game. It's a good spot to do people-watching as the street in front often is thronged with the young and the beautiful.

Best places for live music

Appeal Court, Bloemfontein
The Appeal Court on President Brand Street. Photograph: South African Tourism

Die Mystic Boer (84 Kellner Street; +51 430 2206; diemysticboer.co.za) is the city's first choice for live music. It's become an establishment in the city and this is where you'll find old rockers, young rockers, students, artists, all with one thing in common: a love of music and a good party!

For good African jazz, head to Moods and Flavours (62 Parish Avenue, Hiededal; +27 51 432 4399; moodsandflavors.co.za). In this legendary jazz club you'll get a taste of Africa's best.

Best places to eat street food

For traditional South African food visit the city centre, where street vendors sell their delicious, filling fare. Dotted all over the city you'll also find stalls selling barbecued meat and sausage – another South African favourite. Get your hands on a bag of biltong (dried meat) to chew on while you're watching your favourite team. It's delicious, spicy and healthy.

Best places to eat treat food

A member of the Sotho ethnic group
A member of the Sotho people. Photograph: South African Tourism

For an unrivalled foodie experience, book a place at the De Oude Kraal country estate restaurant (35km south of Bloemfontein on the N1; +27 51 564 0733; oudekraal.co.za) and savour the cooking of one of South Africa's award-winning chefs. It boasts a well-stocked cellar where you can choose a bottle or two of South Africa's best wines.

Looking for something hot and spicy, then the Raj restaurant (at the Windmill Casino, corner of Jan Pierewiet & N1; +27 51 421 0034; therajrestaurant.com) should be your destination. The Raj serves the best Indian food in town. If you want good, tasty food without having to dress up, try Iewers Nice (28 Reid Street, Westdene; +27 51 448 2600) for fusion food with flair.

Best thing to do for free

The best thing to do for free is to pack a picnic basket and seek out one of the city's beautiful parks to enjoy the glorious sun, blue skies and fresh air. Those with an interest in history will be spoilt for choice in Bloemfontein. A must-see is President Brand Street, along which several historical buildings can be found. These include the First Raadsaal (the oldest preserved building in Bloemfontein), the Fourth Raadsaal (housing the Provincial Legislature), the Appeal Court and the Old Presidency.

The National Women's Memorial at the War Museum (Monument Road; +27 51 447 3447; anglo-boer.co.za) commemorates the death of women and children in concentration camps during the Anglo-Boer conflict, while the National Museum (36 Aliwal Street; +27 51 447 9609; nasmus.co.za) has an extensive fossil collection.

The Cleansing, Healing and Reparation Memorial, situated on the grounds of City Hall (Nelson Mandela Drive, +27 51 405 8911), serves as a symbol of the sacrifices made by Free State individuals in the fight for freedom in various conflicts during the past centuries. Also, stop by the Twin Spired Church (Charles Street; +27 51 430 4274, by appointment only), which was built in 1878 and is one of Bloemfontein's most notable buildings due to its distinctive double steeple.

Best shops/markets

The best shops can be found mainly in the city's malls. If African arts and crafts is what you have in mind – perhaps for a gift to take home – the central business district is the place to go. The city is small enough to explore with ease and the suburb of Westdene is a good place to start. You'll find quirky shops selling unusual gifts and curios here.

Local's favourite thing to see

Locals love to spend lazy afternoons in the city's botanical gardens, which are home to a large variety of indigenous plants. The farmer's market in the suburb of Langenhoven Park, held every Saturday morning, is the perfect place to browse for an unusual gift – or to buy pancakes dripping with cinnamon and sugar or even a koeksister (a sinful, sweet, plaited doughy treat). For meat eaters, there's barbecued meat of every variety.

Other things to see nearby

Be sure to visit the township areas of Mangaung, located a short drive from the Bloemfontein central business district. Here you'll find several landmarks honouring the struggle against apartheid – such as Maphikela House (Morakile Street, Bochabela) where Thomas Maphikela lived and helped found the African National Congress; and Klein Makhasa Hall, where Nelson Mandela gave an address before the adoption of the party's Freedom Charter.

You can explore a vibrant mix of shebeens, pubs and taverns, all serving up generous helpings of African jazz and umqombothi (traditional beer). If you're looking for interesting arts and crafts, head to the Creation Co-op at Botshabelo (45km south of Bloemfontein on the N8), which produces traditional dresses, silk paintings and beadwork. And don't neglect to visit the town of Thaba Nchu which was once the stronghold of Moshoeshoe – legendary king of the Sotho people, who still live in the area.

You can also head further out of the city and take in some of the province's eco-tourism options. The Maria Moroka nature reserve is situated at the foot of the Thaba Nchu mountain. It's home to several types of buck, white rhino and hundreds of bird species.

Finally, the Free State's proximity to Lesotho makes it a good base for those wishing to visit the tiny African kingdom. Lesotho is not called the "mountain kingdom" for nothing: the magnificent snow-capped Drakensberg and Maloti mountain ranges will ensure ample photo opportunities. For adrenalin junkies, abseiling and rock climbing, altitude scuba diving and hiking are all part of the fun. During the winter, ski enthusiasts can head to Lesotho for their fix. And a visit to the magnicifent Katse Dam would be well worth the time and effort.

Margaret Linstrom is a lecturer in Communications Science at the University of the Free State.

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