FOOD | INTERVIEW

I thought we’d been invited to the Michelin awards as ‘room meat’

Two years ago Adejoké Bakare ran a pop-up in a market. Now, her restaurant is an A-list magnet

Adejoké Bakare and some of the dishes from Chishuru
Adejoké Bakare and some of the dishes from Chishuru
JACK LAWSON FOR THE TIMES; HARRIET LANGFORD
The Times

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I couldn’t take my eyes off Adejoké Bakare when I first saw her working in Brixton Village Market in south London, 18 months ago. As she created breathtaking dishes in a cramped pop-up spot, a queue of hungry hipsters snaked out into the rain, desperate to snag one of the 20 seats at the site, which did not even have a toilet. Joké, as she prefers to be known, had won the temporary spot in a cookery competition — one she’d only bothered to enter because a friend threatened to disown her if she didn’t.

That is her all over — keeping friends and family happy is top of the agenda. Trying to get her to sit still and talk about herself is almost impossible;