I couldn’t take my eyes off Adejoké Bakare when I first saw her working in Brixton Village Market in south London, 18 months ago. As she created breathtaking dishes in a cramped pop-up spot, a queue of hungry hipsters snaked out into the rain, desperate to snag one of the 20 seats at the site, which did not even have a toilet. Joké, as she prefers to be known, had won the temporary spot in a cookery competition — one she’d only bothered to enter because a friend threatened to disown her if she didn’t.
That is her all over — keeping friends and family happy is top of the agenda. Trying to get her to sit still and talk about herself is almost impossible;