The only Michelin-starred restaurant in Seville, Abantal, serves several sherries to pair with the food. Here, a creamy beet soup and an Oyster with cauliflower puree. YUM!!

You may see the word “Sherry” in the title above and think, "I don't like sweet wines so let's skip this one," but wait! I'm not going to talk about sweet dessert wine here. The majority of sherry is crisp, complex and dry. It’s a wine that can stand up to and enhance the flavor of many types of food.

Not long ago I embarked on a wine lover's trip to Andalucia in Southern Spain, stopping in for a couple of days at the birthplace of Sherry, Jerez, as it is called there. I visited several bodegas, the place where the wine is made, bottled and stored. I met with winemakers who are passionate about their craft and, best of all, I was able to taste a number of different styles of sherry, some of them en rama, or straight out of the barrel.

Take a look at my video from Bodegas Gonzalez Byass, where the charming master blender and winemaker Antonio Flores tried to teach me to use a venecia, a long rod with a tiny cup at the end used to pour wine straight from the barrel into a glass. What a shame most of that delicious liquid ended up on my shoes.

All dry sherry is made from the Palomino grape and aged either biologically or oxidatively, using the unique solera system in stacked barrels. Let's take a look at the two types of aging, the resulting wine and, the best part, food pairings!

Biological Aging

Reflections from A special glass-sided Sherry barrel. This way, visitors can see the protective yeast, known as flor, on top of the wine.

Fino and Manzanilla, the lightest, freshest of sherries, age biologically under a layer of protective yeast called the flor. Like a blanket on top of the wine, it prevents oxidation, keeping the wine fresh, while imparting flavors and enticing aromas of nuts, yeast, dough, dried flowers and olive brine.

The only difference between a Fino and a Manzanilla is that the latter has more of a saline quality from being matured in barrels in the town of Sanlucar de Barrameda, close to the sea. Both wines are practically clear in color and are bone-dry and should be served chilled like a white wine.

En Rama, or ‘raw off the vine’ is another type of Fino or Manzanilla which is unfiltered and therefore has more pungent flavors. (Read more about en rama here).

My favorite way to enjoy a refreshing glass of Fino, whether it is en rama or not, is with some salted marcona almonds, lightly fried food and a selection of interesting, but not too strong cheeses, such as aged Manchego or Tetilla, a light, creamy cheese.

As for Manzanilla, I prefer fresh shellfish, perhaps briny oysters, clams, and mussels. Either style goes well with many types of food, ranging from Japanese sushi to specialty Spanish hams and olives.

Take a look at my recipe here for Clams With Bacon, Corn, Tomatoes and Mushrooms. I served this dish with a Manzanilla from La Guita and it was a spot-on combination.

La Guita Manzanilla is what I enjoyed with the steamed clam dish — **La Guita Manzanilla** **is what I enjoyed with the steamed clam dish**

Delicious manzanilla and fino sherries from Lustau. — **Delicious manzanilla and fino sherries from** **Lustau**.

Oxidative aging

Amontillado, Palo Cortado and Oloroso sherries have been aged at least partially without the protective flor. The exposure to oxygen in the barrel causes these wines to range in color from gold to golden brown, depending on the amount of time spent aging. They are dry and have very complex, rich, round, nutty flavors and should be served slightly chilled, but not as cold as you would serve a white wine. Amontillados and Palo Cortados go fabulously with soups as well as chicken and pork with creamy sauces, or with a full-flavored Spanish blue cheese like Cabrales. The nuttiness of these wines is enhanced by richly flavored vegetables such as asparagus, cauliflower and spinach.

The even fuller-bodied Olorosos go superbly with all kinds of strong, "stinky" cheeses, as well as cured meats and game — think partridge or venison — and even fish that is rich in oil: wild salmon, tuna, trout or mackerel. To my delight, I even enjoyed a glass of Oloroso with a spicy Chinese Kung Po Chicken. The richness of the wine held up well to and enhanced the spicy flavors in the dish.

**Getting ready to have some cured meats with Oloroso Sherry. The dark color of the wine comes from oxidative aging in barrels.**

Notice the difference in color between the Fino (left) and the Amontillado (right) from Valdespino, another favorite producer. — **Notice the difference in color between the Fino (left) and the Amontillado (right) from** **Valdespino, another favorite producer.**

Finally, please don't use one of those tiny tulip-shaped glasses when drinking sherry. If you are in a restaurant, ask for it to be served in a white wine glass. The larger bowl will allow the wine to express its full range of aromas and flavors.

For me, there is no other wine that offers the complexity of sherry for the price. Now is the time to break out a bottle with your favorite meal and say, salud!