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How to Spend a Perfect Weekend in Louisville, Kentucky

Consider this your ultimate guide for the Kentucky Derby and beyond.

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On the first weekend each May, horse-racing enthusiasts and tastemakers flock to Louisville, Kentucky for the fastest two minutes in sports (timed by Longines, of course): The Kentucky Derby. This year marks the 150th anniversary of the Derby, making Churchill Downs a huge draw for tourists in 2024. That said, Louisville has so much more to offer than just horse racing. Whether you’re a design or art lover, an antiques enthusiast, a sports fanatic, or a bourbon aficionado, it’s worth spending a leisurely weekend in this charming city along the Ohio River. To get the scoop on the best things to do in Louisville, we tapped interior designer Bethany Adams, who has lived and worked there for over a decade. Here’s how she recommends spending a perfect weekend in The Derby City.

Friday Morning

21c louisville
21c Louisville

Your first order of business after arriving is checking into 21C Museum Hotel in downtown Louisville. Designed by Deborah Berke of TenBerke Architects, Adams says, “Part hotel, part art gallery, it is always interesting, and the museum is always free to the public—so even if you're not staying there, it's worth it to stop in and see what is on exhibit.”

If you need a pick-me-up after your flight, head to NuLu (short for 'New Louisville'). Adams says “Louisville is spoiled by a wealth of local coffee shops that are all outstanding,” but this neighborhood is home to three of her favorites: Quills on Main Street, Butchertown Grocery Bakery, and Please and Thank You.

She adds, “I couldn't possibly pick a favorite in terms of coffee, but Butchertown Grocery Bakery has some pretty outrageous pastries, so if you like your coffee with a side of cruffin like me, then you can't go wrong.”

After breakfast, head to nearby Market Street for some shopping. Adams says, “Jones & Daughters has a lovely selection of gifts and clothing, and Six Sisters next door has some cute things as well.”Pappy & Co. is a must-visit destination for bourbon lovers. At Pappy & Co., the triplet great-granddaughters of Julian “Pappy” Van Winkle sell everything from bourbon barrel-aged maple syrup to heirloom-worthy entertaining pieces.

Friday Afternoon

cupola and roof on cottage with intricate woodwork
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While you can certainly book a bourbon tour (and should, if you have time!), Adams says that those tend to take up a big chunk of the day. If you’re only staying for a weekend, she says, “I’d do something more hands-on, like visiting the guys at Wild Hats and letting them help you design a custom hat to take home.” She adds, “While you wait for them to bring your vision to life, you might shoot pool and tipple a little bourbon—you never know, and that's half the fun!”

Once you’ve secured your bespoke new accessory, head to St. James Court in Historic Old Louisville, where Adams says she’s lived and worked for over a decade. She says, “I may be a tad biased, but after you spend some time walking around St. James, and the adjoining Belgravia Courts, 4th, and 3rd streets, you'll agree that this neighborhood is a hidden gem.”

Fun fact: Old Louisville boasts the largest collection of restored Victorian homes in the country. Adams adds, “If you're a house tour enthusiast, you can't miss the Conrad Caldwell House right at the corner of St. James and Magnolia Ave.” The historic home operates as a museum and offers tours each afternoon.

Adams says to enjoy the walk south down 3rd street towards the University of Louisville before popping into the Speed Art Museum. She says, “The original collection of Old World Masters and Kentucky heritage pieces—including furniture built by Abraham Lincoln's father—is still on display in the original building, but a $50 million addition opened in 2016 now houses a superb modern collection with works by Spencer Finch, Sam Gilliam, and Frank Stella among others.”

She adds, “The Speed Cinema also plays hosts to a highly curated series of world-class films, so be sure to check showtimes ahead of your visit.”

Friday Evening

louisville kentucky at dusk
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After a full day of sightseeing, head to Old Louisville for dinner “at the best restaurant in town, chef Edward Lee’s 610 Magnolia,” says Adams. With a seasonally-driven tasting menu, creative cocktails, and curated wine list, there’s something delicious for everyone to enjoy. Adams adds, “Be sure to make a reservation well in advance, as it is quite a special place.”

After dinner, walk across the street for an unexpected surprise. Adams says, “Step into our very own Frederick Law Olmstead-designed Central Park for Kentucky Shakespeare's Festival in the Park which runs from May 29-August 11th this year.” Free nightly shows—ranging from Romeo and Juliet to the Tempest—start at 8 p.m, and beer, wine and desserts are available for purchase.

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Saturday Morning

ornate facades in downtown louisville kentucky usa
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On Saturday morning, fuel up with some breakfast. Adams says, “I'm in love with Foko's new restaurant location just across from their original stall at the Logan Street Market.” She adds, “Everything is amazing, but I always get the chilakiles [sic] with chorizo.”

If you’d rather sleep in and eat something quick, you can head to the market and grab coffee and a pastry from the window at La Pana Bakery and Cafe before strolling through the food and vendor stalls inside. The apple strudels, rol de canela (flaky cinnamon rolls stuffed with whipped cream), croissants and sugar-dusted donuts are particularly mouthwatering, but you truly can’t go wrong.

Adams says, “For a fun activity, you can book a surprisingly fascinating tour at the Idlewild Butterfly Farm and Insectarium opposite the market.” The hour-long tour takes you behind the scenes of a butterfly farm and insectarium where you can observe shiny blue beetles, beautiful butterflies, giant katydids and more. After a morning exploring nature, Adams recommends taking a 5-minute drive over to Fleur de Flea, where you’ll find “35,000 square feet of indoor vintage treasures just waiting to be discovered.”

She adds, “I frequently source small accessories for projects and photoshoots here, and once in a while a fabulous piece of furniture or art comes home with me too.” On weekends, the store has a pop-up bar (just in case you’re ready for an afternoon cocktail).

From there, walk over to Paristown Pointe to check out Louisville Stoneware Company. Adams says the business has been around since 1815, and “the craft has been passed down through the generations.” This is the perfect spot to commemorate your trip with a handcrafted pitcher, mint julep cups, or a heirloom-worthy piece of bakeware.

Saturday Afternoon

louisville cityscapes and city views
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After a morning of shopping, head to lunch at GraleHaus in the Highlands for lunch. Located in an old Victorian home, Adams says, “The atmosphere is cozy and the food is incredible.” Inventive dishes like hoisin blackberry wings, sauerkraut balls, and grilled cheese with onion jam make this a must-try spot. Adams adds, “I love the Kentucky Croque,” a riff on a Croque Madame made with Broadbent ham, taleggio, mornay, cheddar and a sunny egg.

After lunch, walk over to Bardstown Road, which is a “bustling area filled with little shops, restaurants and bars,” according to Adams. There are plenty of cute vintage clothing shops in the area, as well as Leatherhead for handmade leather goods, Edenside Gallery for art and artisan-made jewelry, or Carmichael’s Bookstore for your next great read.

Adams adds, “If you're in the mood for some nature and some history, it's a short drive to Cave Hill Cemetery. Far from being morose, it's more like a beautiful arboretum filled with statuary—ok, gravestones—of Louisville luminaries like Muhammed Ali, Susan Look Avery, George Rogers Clark, and, yes, Colonel Sanders.”

Saturday Evening

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After freshening up, head to Meesh Meesh in Nulu for a delicious Mediterranean-style dinner. Adams says, “[My husband] is a vegetarian, and I'm not, and we both love the richness and variety of the menu.” From small plates and delicious dips to shawarma chicken and za’atar fries, you’re sure to find something downright dreamy and delicious.

Adams says, “From there, it's just a block to one of our favorite places to grab a drink, Nouvelle Wine Bar. They have an incredible variety, and the knowledge of the staff is unmatched.” She adds, “The interiors were beautifully done by local designers Journey + Jacobs, but it is the extensive outdoor patio with live music on summer weekend evenings that makes for a truly special night out.”

Craving a late-night drink? Adams says to head over to the Garage Bar for “some fun people watching, ping pong, and my favorite: a basil gimlet made with fresh basil plucked from their own planters.” She adds, “I've also heard the lavender lemonade is quite refreshing.”

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Sunday Morning

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Before departing, enjoy a leisurely Sunday morning in true Louisville fashion. Head to breakfast at Highland Morning, a quaint cafe that serves up classics like pancakes and eggs Benedict, before taking an Uber over to Churchill Downs. Adams says, “Here you can enjoy both the Kentucky Derby Museum and get a tour of the grounds and the somewhat racy-sounding (pun intended) ‘backside tours’.”

After a long weekend of delicious food, local art, historical architecture, natural beauty, and plenty of shopping, we know you’ll already be planning your next trip back to Louisville. Go ahead and invest in a fascinator or bowtie, next year’s Derby is calling.

Headshot of Jaime Milan
Jaime Milan
Deputy Digital Editor

Jaime Milan (she/her) is the deputy digital editor for VERANDA, where she writes about design, architecture, gardens, jewelry, fashion, travel, wine, news and trends. In her spare time, she can be found shopping at the antique store, cooking, gardening, or teaching her mini Australian Shepherd, Gumbo, new tricks. Follow her on Instagram at @jaimemmilan. 

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