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Iconic fashion pieces, episode 3: The 11.12 Chanel bag

A timeless Chanel leather goods accessory, this legendary bag was the very first to feature the double C on its clasp.
Episode 3 iconic fashion piece the 11.12 Chanel bag
Inez & Vinoodh pour Chanel

Which Chanel bag to invest in for 2021? Chanel, the French fashion house with impeccable craftsmanship and a number of signature styles, is also behind some of the most iconic bags on the fashion scene. Among them? The creation of Karl Lagerfeld, the 11.12, which was inspired by the pristine style of the houses' founder, Coco Chanel.

Created in the 1980s, inspired by the 2.55

Although it follows in the legendary footsteps of the 2.55 bags designed by Mademoiselle Coco Chanel in 1955, the 11.12 was no less of an icon in its own right. Under the creative impetus of Karl Lagerfeld, it was created in the 1980s and borrows all of the functionality and classic chic from the 2.55.

The perfect bag according to Gabrielle Chanel? An elegant, easy-to-wear style where you can easily find your belongings. The 2.55 has all these qualities. With seven pockets and lined with red grosgrain, making it easy to see what is inside. A classic at first glance, the 2.55 is a revolution. 

Marie-Hélène Arnaud porte un tailleur en tweed Chanel de la collection automne-hiver 1959-1960 et le sac Chanel 2.55Courtesy of Chanel

With a diamond quilting and a rectangular clasp, this bag quickly became a must-have. It also features a gold chain and several other details as a nod to Mademoiselle's costume jewelry. It quickly became the ultimate accessory, adopted by a handful of actresses such as Brigitte Bardot, Anna Karina, Jeanne Moreau, Catherine Deneuve and Romy Schneider. 

A legendary bag with signature styles

One of Chanel's signature trademarks is diamond quilting. It was Gabrielle Chanel herself who had the idea of this stitched pattern, which served as a guarantee of quality which gave the bags a certain durability and an authentic look. Inspired by the equestrian world, the diamond quilting takes its graphic lines from the stable boys' jackets and the horses' saddlecloths. In fact, this very same pattern can be found on the cushions of her suede sofa in her flat on 31 rue Cambon in Paris. The chain shoulder strap has become emblematic of the Chanel style, contributing to the casual silhouette and nonchalance of Mademoiselle, who liked to have her hands free to slip them into her pockets.

To make the bag more functional, 7 pockets adorn the 11.12 bag. The first, located at the back of the bag, takes a rounded shape reminiscent of Mona Lisa's smile, the nickname given to the bag in the workshops. Then, 6 other pockets decorate the interior: with gusseted cases for business cards and credit cards, a compact mirror, and now a telephone as well as a zipped pocket. There is also a zipped pocket known as ‘la secrète’, as well as two larger pockets and a case pocket designed to hold a lipstick. 

The 11.12 was the first bag to feature the double C. Secured to the inside of the bag flap, it was adopted in the 1980s by Karl Lagerfeld. It is the ultimate detail that differentiates it from the 2.55 bag, which has a rectangular turn lock clasp, known as Mademoiselle. 

The craftsmanship of the 11.12 bag in the Chanel ateliers

Made from calfskin, whose grain is known as caviar, the 11.12 bag is recognizable for its beaded texture. A 2-in-1 effect, its creation requires the creation of a first handbag, assembled to form its interior, whilst a second bag forms the exterior. Once these two bags have been sewn together with the help of bridle stitches, the craftsman turns them inside out. The secret of keeping the 11.12 bag together lies in this movement called ‘piqué-retourné’. With a contrasting lining reminiscent of Gabrielle Chanel's 2.55 bag, the 11.12 has a garnet-red interior to make it easier to find your personal belongings. 

Les étapes de confection du sac 11.12 dans les ateliers ChanelCourtesy of Chanel
Les étapes de confection du sac 11.12 dans les ateliers ChanelCourtesy of Chanel
Les étapes de confection du sac 11.12 dans les ateliers ChanelCourtesy of Chanel
Les étapes de confection du sac 11.12 dans les ateliers ChanelCourtesy of Chanel
Les étapes de confection du sac 11.12 dans les ateliers ChanelCourtesy of Chanel
Les étapes de confection du sac 11.12 dans les ateliers ChanelCourtesy of Chanel
Les étapes de confection du sac 11.12 dans les ateliers ChanelCourtesy of Chanel

Discover all the steps of making the 11.12 bag :

The 11.12 today

As iconic as the 2.55 bag designed by the founder of the House of Chanel, the 11.12 bag shares the same values as its ancestor: a relevance and modernity that have endured through the ages. It has become a style emblem in its own right under the guidance of Karl Lagerfeld, and remains at the very heart of the Chanel collections, as directed by Virginie Viard. A true fashion chameleon, find the 11.12 in tweed and in pastel shades for the 2021 Cruise collection, or even in pop and iridescent colours for Spring/Summer 2021: the bag can adapt to current trends while remaining loyal to its traditional heritage. The model and Vogue Paris muse, Rianne Van Rompaey, who was the face of the latest Chanel campaign, dedicated to this legendary bag, says: 

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La collection Chanel croisière 2021Courtesy of Chanel

The 11.12 bag, a Parisian essential, comes to life in the streets of Saint-Germain-des-Prés through the lens of Inez Van Lamsweerde and Vinoodh Matadin. Starring in this campaign, model and Vogue Paris cover girl Imaan Hammam says: 

Inez & Vinoodh pour Chanel

Far beyond trends, the 11.12 bag is a fashion icon, on the same rank as the 2.55. A common theme that runs through every Chanel collection, it brilliantly combines style, functionality, and timelessness whilst perpetuating the genius of Coco Chanel and Karl Lagerfeld, under the creative impetus of Virginie Viard. 

Translated by Isabella Martin

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