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4 French Chablis and a California chardonnay that won’t bore you

March 4, 2016 at 5:00 p.m. EST

Recommendations

★ ★ ★Exceptional  ★ ★Excellent ★Very Good

Availability information is based on distributor records. Wines might not be in stock at every listed store and might be sold at additional stores. Prices are approximate. Check Winesearcher.com to verify availability, or ask a favorite wine store to order through a distributor.

Chablis has four appellations signifying quality: At the top are grand cru and premier cru, which are from specific vineyards, then Chablis and, last, petit Chablis. There are seven grand cru and 40 premier cru vineyards, giving terroir fiends a lot of wines to experiment with to glean the subtleties of the different sites. Here are four examples of Chablis — three from premier cru vineyards — and a fine California chardonnay. If you are a chardonnay skeptic, these could very well convert you.

Gautheron Les Fourneaux Premier Cru 2014

★ ★ ★

Chablis, France, $30

Les Fourneaux (“the ovens”) faces south and southeast, and it’s one of Chablis’s warmer sites, producing fuller, riper-styled wines. This lovely wine is rich and full, though not buttery and oaky; it features ripe tree-fruit flavors and stony minerality to give it backbone. Alcohol by volume: 13 percent.

Distributed by Wine Traditions: Available in the District at Arrowine and Spirits, Cork Market; on the list at Cashion’s Eat Place, Johnny’s Half Shell. Available in Maryland at Finewine.com in Gaithersburg. Available in Virginia at Arrowine and Cheese in Arlington, Tastings of Charlottesville, Wine Cabinet in Reston.

Bernard Defaix Fourchaume 1er Cru 2014

★ ★ ★

Chablis, France, $32

This features stony, bright fruit with peach, apricot and red currant flavors and a long finish. A lovely wine. ABV: 13 percent.

Distributed by Winebow: Available in the District at Cleveland Park Wine and Spirits, Rodman’s.

Gautheron Chablis Cuvée Émeraude 2012

★ ★

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Chablis, France, $24

It seems to defy gravity, although it does pour directly into the glass. On the palate, it’s ethereal, with an entrancing lightness of texture and body, displaying red berry and stone-fruit flavors. ABV: 12.5 percent.

Distributed by Wine Traditions: Available in the District at Arrowine and Spirits, Cork Market. Available in Virginia at Vienna Vintner, Unwined (Belleview); on the list at La Côte d’Or in Arlington.

Simonnet-Febvre Côte de Lechet Chablis Premier Cru 2012

★ ★

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Chablis, France, $30

Côte de Lechet is in a cooler area of Chablis and yields a more austere, mineral wine than sunnier vineyards do. This wine speaks of earth more than fruit. If you’ve ever wondered what wine fiends mean by “minerality,” try this and you’ll understand.

Distributed by M. Touton Selection: Available in the District at Circle Wine & Liquor, Cleveland Park Wine and Spirits, Harry’s Reserve Fine Wine & Spirits, Rodman’s; on the list at Fiola Mare. Available in Maryland at Beer, Wine & Co., Bradley Food & Beverage and Cork 57 Beer and Wine in Bethesda; Choice Wine & Beer in Wheaton; Downtown Crown Wine and Beer in Gaithersburg; Meridian Beer & Wine in North Bethesda; Old Farm Liquors and Spin the Bottle Wine Co. in Frederick; Pine Orchard Liquors in Ellicott City; Rodman’s (Kensington); Wine Harvest (Potomac); on the list at Grapeseed in Bethesda, Peacock Restaurant & Lounge in Easton, Red Horse Steak House in Frederick.

Wild Horse Chardonnay 2014

★ ★

Central Coast, Calif., $18

This excellent chardonnay features delicious stone-fruit flavors and enough oak to give it body and structure without making the wine taste like a tree. ABV: 13.5 percent.

Distributed by RNDC: Available in the District at Calvert Woodley, Circle Wine & Liquor, District Liquors, Harris Teeter (various locations), Rodman’s, Safeway (various locations), Tenley Wine & Liquor, Whole Foods Market (various locations); on the list at Himalayan Heritage. Available in Maryland at Baker’s Liquors in Chester; Festival Wine & Spirits in Annapolis; Laurel Beer, Wine & Spirits; McHenry Beverage Shoppe in McHenry; Ye Old Spirit Shop in Frederick. On the list at Costas Inn and Osteria Da Amedeo in Baltimore.

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