Sauteed Veal Kidneys With Herbs, Prunes and Cream
This very rich, one-pan dish is built to impress and calls for indulgent ingredients -- so it's not for everyone.
Don't flinch at the cream and butter, says its creator, chef Angie Mar. They are in relatively small amounts and the sauce is so delicious, you'll be glad you splurged. You’ll need an instant-read thermometer.
Serve as a first or main course with a baguette, for sopping up the sauce.
Veal kidneys are quite high in cholesterol. They will come in 1- or 2-pound packages, typically frozen and more likely available at a butcher shop than a supermarket. Be sure to call ahead for availability. You’ll ask for them “cleaned,” which means a large vein and an outer membrane have been removed. Find good culinary lavender via online purveyors or at La Cuisine in Alexandria.
The kidneys need to be soaked in milk for at least 3 hours, and up to 2 days in advance.
Ingredients
- 1 pound cleaned veal kidneys, defrosted if frozen (see headnote)
- Whole milk, for soaking
- 6 pitted prunes
- 10 tablespoons Madeira
- 2 tablespoons olive oil
- 3 good-size cippolini onions, each cut into quarters
- Kosher salt
- 1 tablespoon culinary lavender, coarsely chopped (see headnote)
- 1 tablespoon marjoram leaves, coarsely chopped
- 3 1/2 tablespoons cognac
- 1/3 cup plus 2 tablespoons heavy cream
- 2 1/2 tablespoons unsalted butter
- 2 1/2 tablespoons crème fraîche
- 1 tablespoon chopped fresh tarragon leaves
- 1 tablespoon chopped flat-leaf parsley
Directions
Step 1
Remove and discard the kidneys’ hard, white core of fat, plus any fatty connectors between lobes. Cut the lobes apart, into separate pieces. Place in a bowl and pour in enough milk to completely cover them. Cover and refrigerate for at least 3 hours, then drain and pat dry.
Step 2
Combine the prunes and Madeira in a small saucepan over low heat. Cook for 10 minutes; the prunes should plump up a bit. Remove from the heat and let them sit while you cook the kidneys.
Step 3
Heat the oil in a medium saute pan over medium heat. Once the oil shimmers, add the onions and toss to coat. Cook for about 8 minutes, shaking the pan several times, or just until they have softened and picked up a golden color. Season lightly with salt.
Step 4
Season the kidneys generously with salt.
Step 5
Increase the heat to medium-high; add the kidneys to the pan. Push the onions to one side, and sear the kidneys on all sides until medium-rare (about 145 degrees on an instant-read thermometer); this should take 2 to 3 minutes total. The onions will be browning and crisping during this time, so keep them moving around, too.
Step 6
Add the lavender and marjoram, letting them crackle in the oil. Turn off the heat.
Step 7
Add the cognac to the pan, letting it sizzle in the still-hot pan and reduce a bit, down to a sticky consistency.
Step 8
Turn on the heat to medium-high and add the cream; once it starts to bubble, stir in the butter until it melts to form a thickened sauce that's bubbling. Add the prunes and their Madeira. Once the mixture begins to bubble again, cook just until the sauce is thick enough to coat the back of a spoon. Remove from the heat.
Step 9
Add the crème fraiche and swirl the pan to incorporate. Add the tarragon and parsley at the last minute, then divide between plates and serve right away.
