Andrew Wainwright Walks Northumberland & Beyond
CASTLES
Bamburgh - The Castle, The Wreck & The Dice
Location and Access
About 18 miles north of Alnwick, Bamburgh is large enough to find easily. The castle can be seen from miles in all directions, parking is also convenient throughout Bamburgh at the car parks provided for visitors. A word of warning…ALWAYS pay for parking regardless of the season. They do fine cars without tickets as a friend of mine fond to her expense but it was too late to worry about it as you watch the ticket being issued from the window of the castle.
History
The Castle
There has been a fortification on this site since around AD420 when Bamburgh is reputed to have been the capitol of Briton. After changing hands between the Britons and the Saxons several times the original castle was destroyed by the Vikings in 993. The Normans built a new castle of which the square keep still remains. The castle was the first in England to be defeated by artillery during the War of the Roses. The castle slowly declined until the 18th and 19th centuries when various owners began restoring it. The restoration was completed by the Victorian Industrialist William Armstrong. During WWII a Royal Navy corvette was named after the castle. HMS Bamborough Castle survived the war serving as an escort and was scrapped in 1959. Bamburgh Castle is said to be one of the most important Anglo-Saxon archaeological sites in the world so I couldn't possibly cover the centuries of history here so take a look at the link below.
The Wreck
North of the castle on the beach, when the tide is out sufficiently you can see the wooden bones of a wrecked 17th century ship can be seen. The identity and history of this wreck are a mystery but investigations continue. See the link below for more information.
The Dice
If you head north along the beach near the dunes you will come across a rather unexpected find. Originally they were WWII tank traps placed there as parts of the coastal defenses but now a couple of them have been painted as dice. I can’t seem to find any info on who did this or why or if the others will also be painted but that doesn’t stop them being a pleasant surprise.
The Castle
The Wreck
The Dice
Bothal and Mitford Castles, Ladies Chapel and Well
Location and Access
East of Morpeth you’ll find Bothal. Travelling East, before you get to Bothal take a right turn, just before you get to the bridge is a car park by the river near the ruins of Bothal Mill. From the turning you can see Bothal Castle. From the car park follow the river back towards Morpeth and before the meander you’ll see the tumbled stones of the chapel and well. I haven’t walked the full length myself but this path goes all the way to Mitford. Walks in this area can be found at the below link.
If you don’t want to walk all the way to Mitford then you can park near the church. To get to the castle walk to the bridge and you’ll see the path along the river. There is a style to allow you to cross the fence and onto the castle site.
History
Bothal:
In 1095 Bothal was given by King William Rufus to Guy de Balliol, whose daughter Alice married William Bertram, Baron of Mitford, who probably built a hall house. Several generations later, in 1343, Sir Robert Bertram was given permission to turn his manor house into a castle. It was an opportune time to beef up the defenses for, in 1346, Sir Robert was fighting in the Battle of Nevilles Cross outside Durham against the invading Scottish army. In 1388 Sir Robert Ogle died in the battle of Otterburn leaving most of his estates to his eldest son but Bothal went to the younger. Unhappy with this the eldest son laid siege to Bothal with 200 men. The castle is now owned by the Cavendish-Bentinck family and is not open to the public.
Mitford:
It is probable that the earthwork fortification was begun in 1070. In 1138 it was described as the "oppidum" of William Bertram when it was attacked by the Scots. In 1215, having been seized by the Flemish troops of King John the barony was taken from Roger Bartram and given to Hugh de Balliol. A garrison commanded by Philip de Ulecotes withstood a siege here by Alexander II of Scotland in 1216. In 1315 it was the headquarters of a group of bandits responsible for kidnappings and the holding of prisoners to ransom led by Sir Gilbert de Middleton. The Castle was taken by a ruse by a band of men under the leadership of Sir William Felton and Sir Thomas Heton in December 1317 and the de Middleton brothers Gilbert and John were captured and later executed at London in Jan 1318. In 1327 the castle was destroyed and the stone used in the construction of a Jacobean House on the site whose ruins still remain.
Lady’s' Well and Chapel
A local historian, Alan Fryer wrote an article based on the research into the Chapel and well along the River Wansbeck. For more info check out the link:
Bothal Castle
Mitford Castle
Ladys' Well
Ladys' Chapel
Cartington Castle
Location and Access
2 Miles northwest of Rothbury tucked away behind some farm buildings you’ll is Cartington Castle. You can park at the farm and from there you can see the ruins. They are on private property so don't just wander over but if you ask at the farm then you can be allowed access to wander and snap away to your hearts content.
History
This 14th century castle was originally built as a pele tower and lies on the slope of Cartington Hill looking down on the River Coquet. The actual date of the castle is uncertain. The first recorded owner was Ralph Fitzmain who held it in 1154. In 1416 it was mentioned in the list of Border fortresses and in 1421 it was extended to include a great hall, and a tower-defended courtyard. In 1648 the castle, held for the King by the Royalists, Widdringtons, Selbys, Claverings and other local families, was besieged and after a little resistance was taken by parliamentary forces. A few years later the castle was dismantled and the stones used to build outhouses, walls and barns. Just to the west of the farm stands the "nunnery", an alms house founded by Dame Mary Charleton in 1697 for Roman Catholic Widows.
Chillingham Castle
Location and Access
The Castle is signposted on the A697 or from Eglingham so it’s not hard to find. Free parking is available at the castle but entrance for adults is £9 and unfortunately no dogs are allowed. I have been to the castle but not in I’m afraid. It is occasionally closed on the off season and that just happened to coincide with my visit… typical… The outside however was very impressive and I fully intend to go back sooner or later.
History
A fabulous castle reputed to be one of the most haunted buildings in Britain though I've lost count how many times I've heard that. Ghost tours are available on appointment and would make a great Halloween activity though they are available year round. Chillingham started life as a stronghold before becoming a fully fortified castle. The license to crenelate was issued by Edward III in 1344, this document survives today and is on display in the castle. During its history it has played host to King Henry III, Edward I, James I, James VI, Charles I and Edward VIII. Structurally unchanged since the Tudor period one of the castles most notable features are the dungeons and torture chambers, this may have something to do with the hauntings. The castle has remained within the same blood lines since 1245 and is currently the home of Sir Henry Wakefield. The castle is available for private functions but also holds various other functions like music and seasonal attractions. They have a website for more info.
Dunstanburgh Castle
Location and Access
If you are lucky you can park in Craster village by the harbor but space is limited. If not there is a Pay & Display car park a bit further out. From there it’s just over a 2km walk. Alternatively there is parking available northwest of the castle for a shorter stroll. Dunstanburgh Castle is an English Heritage property and entrance is £4.20 per adult.
History
The castle encloses 11 Acres of land. Built by Earl Thomas of Lancaster in 1313 when his relationship with King Edward II had become openly hostile. It’s the largest castle in Northumberland. Recent evidence shows signs of much earlier occupation on this site dating as far back as prehistoric times. The main gatehouse turrets were 80ft tall but sadly the castle has been falling into ruin since the war of the roses in 1464. Turner has painted this ruin many times and its silhouette makes for stunning photos from many aspects along the coast. It also happens twice a year and for about 2 weeks in April and October that the rising sun aligns with the window on the square keep and if you are in the right place at the right time then you can capture this… so far I have not but I have walked the area with a local professional photographer who has.
The Approach from Craster
Pictured from Lower Newton by the Sea
Edlingham Castle
Location and Access
A few miles southwest of Alnwick is the small village of Edlingham, If you approach form Alnwick then you have a cracking view over the village as you approach. You can park for free at the church where a short walk takes you to the castle ruins. The site is managed by English Heritage but access is free. See Swin Hope Linn in Waterfalls as it is very nearby.
History
The name of the village and castle means “The home of EadWulf” in Anglo Saxon and records go back as far as 737. The church dates from 11th Century with the tower added in 13th century. The castle site started as a fortified manor house in 1174. In 1294 it was sold to William de Fenton who strengthened it with ramparts and a gatehouse. In 1396 the Solar Tower which is still standing was added. It started falling into disrepair in 17th century with most of the stonework used for nearby farm houses from 1660 onwards. If you want a more detailed leaflet they are available from the church for a small donation.
Looking from the church towards the castle you can see the 11th century church, 12th century castle and a 19th century Victorian viaduct all in the same shot.
Etal & Ford Castles
Location and Access
A stone’s throw from the Scottish border just off the A697 are the villages of Ford and Etal. Ford Castle can be seen from the road behind a beautiful church. Unfortunately you can’t go in as it is a young persons’ residential centre, I suspect for witches and wizards over the age of 10 but still makes for some good muggle pictures. Etal Castle is an English Heritage property with its own free car park. Entrance is £4 per adult.
History
Ford Castle was built in 1278, Sir William Heron was granted a license to crenelate in 1338. It wasn’t long before it was conquered by the Scots in 1385 and dismantled. It was rebuilt and fortified in the 16th century and was again captured shortly after by James IV of Scotland in 1513 on the eve of the battle of Flodden Field. It has undergone several remodeling’s in the following years in the Tudor and Gothic styles.
Etal Castle was founded by the Manners family in the late 12 century. In 1341 the license to crenelated was granted. The owner was a doctor and the castle became a place of pilgrimage for the ill and infirm. The Manners of Etal and Herons of Ford often feuded and William Heron even led an attack on Etal in 1428 in which he was killed. Etal castle also fell to James IV in 1513 when he led 30,000 troops against Etal before his defeat at Flodden Fields. The castle was abandoned when the family moved to Belvoir after a marriage.
Ford Castle
Etal Castle
Harbottle Castle
Location and Access
Northwest of Sharperton is the village of Harbottle. Not far from Lady’s Well and 9 miles from Rothbury. There is free parking at the castle and is easily spotted from the road. The site is surprisingly large and in excessively wet periods the moat still fills up.
History
It is thought that the mound on which the keep stands was a site used by the ancient Britons and that in Anglian times there was a stronghold on the site held by Mildred, son of Ackman. Around 1157 Odinel de Umfraville at the request of King Henry II built Harbottle Castle on land awarded to them following the Norman Conquest, presumably as a defense against the Scots. In 1174 it was taken by the Scots who held it until 1310. Robert de Ros laid siege with 40,000 men in 1296 but was unsuccessful, Robert the Bruce finally retook the castle. It was in ruins again by 1351 and was repaired at the end of the 14th century. In 1436 it changed hands and was used as a prison.
Hylton Castle
Location and Access
North of the Wear in a residential area in Sunderland sits Hylton castle. Another of English Heritages' properties with free parking and access.
History
This site originally had a wooden fortification built shortly after the Norman Conquest. It was rebuilt in stone in the 14th century by the same family. It was constantly occupied by the Hylton family until 1746. Revitalised by a new owner in 1812 in the Gothic style but then neglected it stood empty until 1840. It was briefly used as a school and passed to the state in 1950. The Chapel has existed on the site since 1157 and was rebuilt in stone shortly after the castle.
Old Callaly Castle Hill & McCartney's Cave
Location and Access
West of the A697 is Thrunton woods. A good area for some not too extreme mountain biking. It’s a picturesque area for walking too with various routes some of which are in the link below. There are a couple of areas you can park, the easiest of which is to the east of the woods. To the west you can park off the road and the walk is shorter.
History
Old Callaly Castle hill is the site of the earliest fortification in this area as it dates back to the Iron Age. The earth works of the hill fort can still be seen and in the late afternoon sun dappling through the trees it’s a captivating peaceful place.
The now signposted Callaly Castle also referred to as New Callaly Castle is a private residence not far from the hill but is more akin to a large country house which has developed over time, the west wing of which started life as a pele tower in the 14th century.
Prudhoe Castle
Location and Access
South of the A69 and East of Corbridge you’ll find Prudhoe. The castle is signposted from within the town and there is a free car park at the site. Another English Heritage property entry will cost you £4.50 per adult.
History
This Castle has a distinguished heritage originally owned by the Umfravilles but was taken over by the famous Percy family. The first castle on the site was a wooden Norman mote and bailey castle. Built in the mid-11th century. Prudhoe was able to withstand several attempts by William the Lion of Scotland to take it as part of his attempt to claim the earldom of Northumberland. In 1398 the castle passed to the Percy family where the made improvements before forfeiting the estate to the crown for siding against Henry IV at the battle of Shrewsbury but regained it in 1440. It changed hands several times due to revolution/. After 1660 the castle was no longer lived in and was reported ruinous by 1776.
Ros Castle
Location and Access
Out past Eglingham and Old Bewick before you get to Chillingham take the right hand turn to Hepburn. Along the road you’ll easily find the free parking area. If you want to shorten the journey you can park higher up the hill. From the higher (more easterly) parking area you can clearly see the track to the viewpoint. This is the same road to Cateran Hole.
History
Ros Castle is not much more than a hill with a view point now but its name comes from the Iron Age hill fort that was here some 3,000 years ago. At the top of the hill there is a trig point and a Toposcope. From this point, on a clear day you can supposedly see 7 castles including that of Lindisfarne.
Rothley Castle & Codger Fort
Location and Access
Mounted on top of Rothley Crags you can see Rothley Castle. The substantial remains can be seen form the road and it's not far to walk if you want to explore these ruins. Scot's Gap is well signposted in the area and parking is possible on the grass verge near the ruins.
History
The history of Rothley Castle doesn’t go back anywhere near as far as some of the other castles in the area. This was an 18th century Gothic Folly. It's owned by the National Trust now but it was designed in 1755 by architect Daniel Garrett for Sir Walter Blackett owner of Wallington Hall just North East of the crags.
Codger Fort, built in 1769 by John Codling, parish clerk of Kirkwhelpington Church, for Sir Walter Calverley Blackett of Wallington Hall. It was designed as a gun battery apparently but little information survives about this structure.
Warkworth Castle & Hermitage
Location and Access
The castle can be seen from miles around perched on the hill. The car park is just off the main road through Warkworth but it is Pay & Display. Alternatively there is parking by the river or in the town which is free and not far to walk to the Castle. It’s owned by English Heritage. During the winter the castle is only open at weekends. Entrance is £5.20 for adults and you can take a free audio tour of the remains. Keep an eye out on the website as they hold open air Shakespeare and other events throughout the year.
History
Once home to the powerful Percy family who now reside in Alnwick Castle, Warkworth was and remains one of the largest and most impressive fortresses in North East England. It was once home to 'Harry Hotspur', hero of many Border ballads and the bane of Scots raiders.
The traditional story of the origin of the hermitage, attributing it to one of the Bertrams of Bothal Castle in this county, is told in Bishop Percy's ballad The Hermit of Warkworth (1771). It dates back to the 14th century and is a unique site. Part natural cave shaped by the monks, part building by those same monks. The map shows how you can walk to the Hermitage during the off season. During the summer there is a ferry from the bank of the river next to the castle.
Dally & Tarset Castles (See Goat Linn & Jerry's Linn)
Location and Access
For Tarset Castle Park in Lanehead. There is not much to see of the castle, a few jumbled rocks and the remains of the earth works but it did have a commanding view of the river valley. Dally Castle has more substantial remains and a small area to park just off the road.
History
Dally castle is a 13th century mott and baily ruin, referred to in a document of 1237 as the 'house with remarkably thick walls in the form of a tower.' It crops up from time to time in documents changing hands frequently until raized to the ground by marauding Scots by 1326.
The manor of Tarset was granted to William Comyn in around 1222. License to crenellate was granted to John Comyn in 1267, the earliest surviving license to do so in Northumberland. It was captured and burnt in 1525.